Costume Design

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Costume DesignCostume design is the envisioning of clothing and the overall appearance of a character or performer. Costume may refer to the style of dress particular to a nation, a class, or a period. In many cases, it may contribute to the fullness of the artistic, visual world which is unique to a particular theatrical or cinematic production. The most basic designs are produced to denote status, provide protection or modesty, or provide visual interest to a character. Costumes may be for a theater, cinema, or musical performance but may not be limited to such. Costume design should not be confused with costume coordination which merely involves altering existing clothing, although both create stage clothes.

Four types of costumes are used in theatrical design: historical, fantastical, dance, and modern.

Village festivals and processions in honor of Dionysus amongst the ancient Greeks, are believed to be the origin of theatre, and therefore theatre costume. The sculpture and vase paintings provide the clearest evidence of this costume. Because of their ritualized style of theatre many masks were used giving each character a specific look and they varied depending if they were used for comedic or dramat ic purposes. Some masks were constructed with a cheerful as well as a serious side on the same face in an attempt to indicate a change in emotion without a change of mask. The same is true for the Romans, who continued the mask tradition, which made the doubling of roles easier.

History

During the late Middle Ages in Europe, dramatic enactments of Bible stories were prevalent, therefore actual Christian vestments, styl ized from tradit ional Byzantine court dress, were worn as costumes to keep the performances as real is t ic as possible. Stereotypical characterization was key when clothing performers for this style of theatre. In most instances actors had to supply their own costumes when playing a character found in daily life.

History

Later, in Elizabethan performance during the 1500-1600s in England, costume became the most important visual element. Garments were very expensive because only the finest fabrics were used. The majority of characters were clothed in Elizabethan fashion, otherwise the costumes could be divided into five categories; "Ancient", which was out of style clothing used to represent another period; "Antique", older additions to contemporary clothing to distinguish classical characters; Dreamlike, "fanciful" garments for supernatural or allegorical characters; "Traditional" clothing which represented only a few specific people, such as Robin Hood, or "National or Racial" costumes that were intended to set apart a specific group of people but did not tend to be historically accurate.

History

"Ordinarily, fashionable garments were used in both comedy and tragedy until 1727, when Adrienne Lecouvreur adopted the much more elaborate and formal court dress for tragedy. Her practice soon became standard for all tragic heroines" Major actors began to compete with one another as to who would have the most lavish stage dress. This practice continued until around the 1750s when costumes became relevant to the character again. Art began to copy life and realistic characteristics were favored especially during the 19th century. For example, Georg the second, Duke of Saxe-Meiningen took personal interest in the theatre and began managing troupes. He advocated for authenticity and accuracy of the script and time period, therefore he refused to let actors tamper with their own costumes. He also made sure the materials were authentic and specific, using real chain mail, armor, swords, etc. No cheap substitutes would be allowed

History

a b c Eubank, Tortora, Keith, Phyllis G. (2005). Survey of Historic Costume. New York: Fairchild Publications. p. 1.

Grimball and Wells, Elizabeth B. and Rhea (1925). Costuming a Play: Inter- Theatre Arts Handbook. The Century Co. p. 6. ASIN B0000D5ITV.

Brockett, Hildy, Oscar G., Franklin J. (2007). History of the Theatre. USA: Pearson Education Inc. p. 358. ISBN 0-205-47360-1.

Obituary, The New York Times, 15 June 1880, p3

History References

The Four types of costumes that are used in theatrical design: historical, fantastical, dance, and modern.

From The National Theater in Paris France.

Theatrical Costumes

Historical Costume,

Modern Costume

Modern Costume

Dance Costume,

Dance Costume,

Dance Costume,

Fantastical Costume,

Fantastical Costume, Dance Costume,

Fantastical Costume,

Fashion Illustration

Fashion IllustrationFashion Illustration is the communication of fashion that originates w i t h i l l u s t r a t i o n , drawing and painting. I t i s u s u a l l y c o m m i s s i o n e d f o r reproduction in fashion magazines as one part of an editorial feature or for the purpose of a d v e r t i s i n g a n d p romo t i ng f ash ion m a k e r s , f a s h i o n b o u t i q u e s a n d department stores

Fashion Illustration has been around for nearly 500 years. Ever since clothes have been in existence and there was a need to translate an idea or image into a garment there has been a need for fashion illustration. Not only do fashion illustrations show a representation or design of a garment but also served as a form of art. Fashion illustration shows the presence of hand and is said to be a visual luxury. More recently, there has been a decline of fashion illustration in the late 1930s when Vogue began to replace its celebrated illustrated covers with photographic images. Laird Borrelli, author of Fashion Illustration Now states,

Fashion Illustration

Present illustrators There are hundreds of fashion i l lustrators today, including Francois Berthoud, Mats Gustafson, Jean-Philippe Delhomme, David Downton, Tanya Ling, Ruben Toledo, Julie Verhoven, Kathryn Elyse Rodgers, Sarah Hankinson, Jennifer Lilya, Jessica Mack, and Kime Buzzelli. Between them these artists have contributed work to virtually every major international fashion magazine as well as a myriad of fashion businesses including Barneys, Selfridges, Louis Vuitton, Viktor & Rolf, Chanel, Coach, and Burberry. Bianca Raffaela is a London born Italian artist. Her fashion illustrations are a mix of modern realism and abstraction.

Past illustrators Paul Iribe (1883–1935), Carl 'Eric' Erickson (1891–1958), 'Erté' Romain de Tirtoff (1892-1990), Christian Bérard (1902–1949), Cecil Beaton (1904–1980), Rene Gruau (1909–2004), Irwin Crosthwait (1914–1981), Lila De Nobili (1916–2002), Kenneth Paul Block (1924–2009), Andy Warhol (1928–1987), Antonio Lopez (1943–1987), Joel Resnicoff (1948–1986).

Bianca Raffaela

Andy Warhol

Paul Iribe

Fashion Illustration

Fashion Illustration

Fashion Illustration

Fashion Illustration

Fashion Illustration

Fashion Illustration proceeders From A to B

The costume design process involves many steps and though they differ from genre to genre a basic method is commonly used.

1.) Analysis: The first step is an analysis of the script, musical composition, choreography, etc. Parameters must be established:

Indication of events happening before the piece took place if applicable

Geographical location

Day, month, year or specific season

Who the characters are regarding relationships and socio economics, government and religious rule, and ethical conduct, marriage or family.

The function of each character in regards to protagonist, antagonist etc.

Dialogue mode of text

Texts action in sequence. This is used to create a Costume Plot or Action Chart, which lists which characters are in what scene.

Theme of the text.

Design process

2.) Design Collaboration: An important phase in the process is meeting with the director and fellow designers. There must be a clear understanding of:

*Script/Text *Budget *Time table/Calendar

3.) Costume Research: Once guidelines are established, the next step is to gather research.

A research outline is important to focus your attention, listing any questions necessary to complete your study.

Use primary sources for the majority of your research; Such as, museums, periodicals, newspapers, sculptures, paintings, etc.

Design process

4.) Preliminary Sketching and Color Layout: Once enough information is obtained to begin drawing, a preliminary sketch must be performed. Successful preliminary sketching conveys an accurate depiction of: Line, which will show the silhouette of the targeted piece of clothing

Proportion, of not only the garment but also the actors body.

Detail, of not specifics but general ideas. Such as the indication of what type of fabric or pattern may be used.

A color layout, using either fabric swatches, or paint samples needs to be represented.

Design process

http://www.costumes.org/index.php/Costume_History

http://www.fashion-era.com/

http://world4.eu/

http://amberbutchart.com/

http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/renaissance.htm

Design process

5.) Final Sketches: The final costume sketch can be completed in any medium but must include:

*Name of text

*Name of character/actor

*Scene(s) in which costume is represented

*Signed signature of artist

*Swatch of fabric if being constructed

Fashion Croquis Figures

Follow these steps and draw your own Croquis Figures.

After you got the right proportions add some mussel using contour hatching lines.

Croquis Figures

Human Figure Stick men steps

Human Figure Proportion

Regular length is 6 to 7 heads.

The belly button shod be the center of your drawing.

Fashion Croquis Figures are disproportioned 8 to 9 heads.

Human Figure Contour Hatching

Exercice: Draw 5 different body poses. Need a model? Ask a friend to pose.

Exercice: Draw 5 different body poses. Need a model? Ask a friend to pose.

GET TO WORK

A short time laps of female dresses thru out the century.

History Reference