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GREATOCEAN
PHOTOSWilderness, wildlife and wild oceans make Victorias Shipwreck Coastan adventure for the camera and your car, writes Ewen BellA
long the western coastline of
Victoria from Torquay to Apollo
Bay there are as many holiday
homes enjoying the ocean
views as there are cars on the highway.
Summer is high season as Melbourne
residents run from the heat waves in
search of ocean waves, while the cooler
months offer excellent value for motorists
in search of a truly great touring route.
Torquay and Lorne are hubs for day-
tripping, with no shortage of gelato stalls
or gourmet fish n chips. Adulthood is no
barrier to reliving your childhood on these
busy beaches. The further west you head
the less crowded the scenes become, or
escape the beach entirely by heading inland
for treetop walks or a wander to waterfalls.
A single day is not nearly enough to
enjoy the Great Ocean Road and the best
attractions come into view on the other side
of Lorne. Apollo Bay offers excellent options
across all budgets for accommodation,
both in town and in the surrounding hills.
Gourmet gems like Chriss at Beacon Point
provide a romantic setting amongst the tall
timber, both for dinner and for the night.
The most fun to be had without exceeding
the legal speed limit is definitely between
Lorne and Apollo Bay, with the biggest
bends and sharpest hairpins set against
the backdrop of crashing waves.
Cute and cuddly
Heading west from Apollo Bay, the
highway winds inland into forests and
cooler mountain air. Massive trees tower
overhead like a natures cathedral, with the
occasional koala looking down from above.
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FEATURE EWEN BELL
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A turnoff along this stretch to Cape
Otway is worth a day on its own. One of
Victorias most charming lighthouses is at
the end of the road, but unique coastal
scenery also awaits in Blanket Bay and
adjoining Crayfish Bay. At dusk the sun
disappears across the breaking waves, with
Cape Otway Lighthouse standing tall in the
distance and an array of rock pools offering
playful compositions in the foreground.
You never know what the sky will throw up
here, with the potential for reds and orange
glows caught by mottled clouds. Both sunset
and sunrise have their own charms at Crayfish
Bay, and its rare to see another soul out on
the rocks for the first or last rays of light.
Travellers are drawn to Cape Otway for the
lighthouse, but they stop along the journey
for the koalas. At first glance these furballs
look friendly as kittens, but those big claws
and grumpy dispositions become more
apparent as you get up close. Few places
in Australia offer a chance to see so many
koalas in the wild, or to get so near. A handful
of turnouts along the drive to Cape Otway
Lighthouse are routinely filled with traffic
stopping to watch the treetops, and the
koalas have become so used to visitors that
some are happy to wander into the crowd.
Theres no official procedure when a
koala tries to eat your shoes, but make sure
Cloudy days are ideal for a
photographic visit to Hopetounand Beauchamp fallsyou have a camera handy as you step away
from the curious marsupials. Their prime
objective in life is to rip things off trees, and
with a shortage of the right kind of trees at
the moment they can take an unnatural
interest in trousers and camera straps.
Kangaroos and wallabies are a little more
camera shy in The Otways, with plenty of room
to wander and a natural distrust of anything
that doesnt hop. The best way to get closer
to most marsupials is with a telephoto lens.
The folks at Great Ocean Ecolodge
specialise in wildlife walks, devoting much
of their time to caring for injured wildlife in
the region and the rest of their time to luxury
digs. A mix of comfort and tradition greets
guests and the lodge is a short drive from
all the best attractions of Cape Otway. At
dusk the kangaroos gather in the pastures
surrounding the lodge, grazing on the green
stuff while keeping an eye out for cameras.
Quirky quills
On the western side of Cape Otway the
Great Otway National Park stretches out to
include The Apostles and hidden gems such
as Moonlight Head. The sandy roads that
lead down to Moonlight Heads is popular
with echidnas in search of a feed. Theyre
creatures of habit that dont like to wander
too far from their chosen habitat. Digging
IMAGES
FLAGSTAFF HILL
TEAROOMS
(LEFT)Shot witha Canon 1DsMkIII;EF16-35mm f/2.8lens; 1/80sec; f/4.5;ISO 1600
CAPE OTWAY
LIGHTHOUSE
(BELOW)Shot witha Canon 1DsMkIII;EF70-200mm f/2.8lens; 1/320sec; f/10;ISO 200
BEAUCHAMP
FALLS
(RIGHT)Shot witha Canon 1DsMkIII;EF16-35mm f/2.8lens; 1.6sec; f/14;ISO 50
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Hidden in the hills nearby are some
of Victorias most photogenic waterfallsDIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY
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underneath the roots of flowering heath
and pushing aside fallen leaves, theybecome oblivious to approaching cars
until its too late to hide. Their reaction to
suddenly being discovered is endearing,
as they scrunch up into a ball of quills
and bury their head deep into the dirt.
Shutter-shy behaviour isnt great for
photographers, however; you can spend
all day waiting for echidnas to pop up for
a shot, silently poised to strike the shutter,
and that first frame will be the last for
another ten minutes as they re-panic
and dig in a little deeper.
Most monotremes are dedicated
introverts but once in a while you can chance
upon an outgoing individual who is more
concerned with a good feed. Local farmers
get to know the friendly echidnas and their
schedule. If youre staying at a farmhouse
location like the cottages at Johanna, be
sure to ask your host where the wildlife
is likely to make an appearance.
Falling moonlight
At the end of Moonlight Head Road the
waves roll into Wreck Beach, a treacherous
piece of coastline that has claimed its
share of shipwrecks and attracts a lot of
photographers. Most of the refuse from
these historic events is long washed away
but the rusting anchors of the Marie
Gabrielleand Fijiare notable exceptions.
At low tide the rock pools are exposed
and the anchor rises above the scene
like a ghoulish work of sculpture.
The art of rock pools and photography
depends on the tides, and that time of daywhen the waves are washing through the
pools without concealing them is the stuff
of art. Slow shutters and a tripod can be
used here to turn the sea silky and allow
the stoic image of the shipwreck anchors
to float above the chaos.
Checking the tide times on your
smartphone before you venture out
is a good idea too, as too much or too
little reach from the waves will change
your options for composition.
Waves over rock pools are not the only
natural treasures in The Otways to inspire
slow shutters. Hidden in the hills north of
the Shipwreck Coast are some of Victorias
most photogenic waterfalls, easy to access
and a rich reward for anyone dedicated
enough to carry a tripod.
Tall timber and tree ferns of The Great
Otway National Park make the most of
the prevailing precipitation, and the river
systems of the Otways are blessed with
abnormally high rainfalls. Within an hours
drive from the highway at Apollo Bay or
Cape Otway, you can reach the rainforests
at Hopetoun and Beauchamp Falls. Both
are found at the end of wooded walks with
a few steep steps involved, although the
distance from carpark to camera stop is
shortest at Hopetoun Falls.
Not only is a tripod handy when
shooting for slow and velvety scenes of the
waterfalls, but a wide angle lens is rather
essential as you get close to the action.
Cloudy days are ideal for a photographic
visit to Hopetoun and Beauchamp, as the
soft and even light of overcast conditions
compliments the slow shutter themes.
Bright, sunny days often prove too mottled
with hot spots where the water breaks out
of the forest.
Fallen apostles
Once known as the Twelve Apostles, the
geological remnants of limestone erosion
are becoming fewer and shorter by the
decade. Sunset from the viewing platforms
at The Apostles is still beautiful, waiting for
the sun to disappear over the ocean as the
colours of the water and cliffs all around
shift hues.
Even on a cloudy day this location
is worth a visit, because any gap in the
clouds out to sea will give an opportunity
for the last gasp of sun to paint the sky
with colour. In fact, this combination of
very late light with dappled cloud above
makes for landscape magic. There is plenty
of room on the viewing platforms for
tripods; just pick a spot early and watch
the changing light. As an added bonus,
Apollo Bay can be reached from Melbourne within three hours in good traffic, and its
less than two hours further to reach Port Campbell. If you get short for time when
heading home the inland route back to Melbourne, via Colac, is less than three hours.
Drive times
IMAGES
APOSTLES
VIEWING DECK
(ABOVE)Shot witha Canon 1DsMkIII;EF16-35mm f/2.8lens; 1/250sec; f/10;ISO 400
WRECK BEACH
(RIGHT)Shot witha Canon 1DsMkIII;EF70-200mm f/2.8lens; 1/200sec; f/13;ISO 640
KOALA
SPOTTING
(FARRIGHT)Shot with a Canon1DsMkIII; EF70-200mm f/2.8 lens;1/4000sec; f/2.8;ISO 800
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the Fairy Penguins make their run home
just after the sun goes down, gathering
in rafts of up to a hundred and riding into
the shore together. Their chatty tack tack
calls can be heard when theres no wind,
but dont expect this to be a great spot
for photographing these shy birds.
The Apostles get most of the attention
but there are equally photogenic sections
of the coastline, such as the beach at
Loch Ard Gorge or the cliffs nearby
Sherbrook River. A few secluded beaches
west of Sherbrook River can be reached
by the walking trail and offer powerful
combinations of sky, surf and sand
for photographic compositions.
Sometimes its the little things that
make compelling captures, so take a
moment to contemplate the coral and
kelp that has been washed ashore too.
Some koalas will get close enough to chew on your shoe but most
marsupials in the Otways and Great Ocean Road will be shy of the
lens. A telephoto lens is the key with a range of at least 200mm
required for kangaroos on dusk, and 400mm preferable. Penguins
are off limits and can only be viewed from platforms at The Apostles.
Wildlife lens
Slow shutters and a tripod
turn the sea silky and allow the
anchors to float above the chaos
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Some sections of beach have been off
limits in recent years due to new colonies
of Fairy Penguins, but you can still reach
the shores at Gibson Steps for a sunrise
shoot. Port Campbell is an excellent
overnight base for this bit of coastline, but
take care with kangaroos and their poor
sense of road rules in the pre-dawn light.
Fairies and whales
Warrnambool has become a hot spot for
whale watching in the winter, with a natural
cove protected from the worst weather
offering a safe sanctuary for Southern Right
Whales nursing their new born calves.
Logans Beach is where whale spotters
head from June to October, but youll
need a very long lens and a sunny day
to get the photogenic side of the
whales. Boating is not permitted within
the sanctuary so your viewing is limited
to the beach.
For a detailed look at the history
of whales, tall ships and tragic tales
of the Shipwreck Coast, its worth a
visit to Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village.
Relics from the wrecks are central to
the exhibits, along with the 1870s village
restored to its former glory. An evening
laser show is one of the more unusual
attractions to the region, designed to
engage audiences of all ages with
historical stories of the coast.
The lighthouse at Flagstaff Hill is
charming but an hour down the road
youll find one of the most photographed
in the state. Port Fairy Lighthouse sits on
the edge of Griffiths Island, surrounded by
If you want to see more of the coastline than most visitors, try hiking
instead of driving. The Great Ocean Walk offers over 100km of trail
through the Great Otway National Park, spread across seven days of
hiking with some difficult sections for those who enjoy a challenge.
greatoceanwalk.info
Walk, dont run
This combination of very late
light with dappled cloud above
makes for landscape magic
FEATURE EWEN BELL
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Autofocus lenses are not imperative for
landscape work, so its worth having a look at
the fine primes offered by Zeiss to complement
your landscape passion. Recently introduced
to Australia is the 15mm f/2.8, adding to the
21mm f/2.8 and 18mm f/3.5. lenses.zeis.com
Zeiss DistagonT* 15mm f/2.8
Ewens top 10 tips for betterlandscapes every time
01FOREGROUND FIRST:The difference between a good landscape image and
a great one is the detail of the foreground. A majestic vista is improvedwhen complimented with interesting foreground detail, helping to build a story ofthe location through texture or leading lines.
02SOLID FOUNDATIONNothing beats a seriously good tripod for slowshutter landscape work. Tidal movement, afterglow exposures and nightstars all get a boost when you have a sturdy tripod free of vibration and wobble.Lighter is not always better as a little bit of vibration can ruin a lot of hard work.
03GRADUAL SUCCESSGraduated ND filters are helpful when balancing outreflections in the water to match the bright sky above. Sliding them into
position with your Live View activated allows for perfect composition and precisebalancing with your graduated filter.
04POLARISED PUNCHPolarising filters are great for cutting out glare andadding punch to blue skies especially ones with nice clouding. Essential ifyoure taking photos in the middle of the day or in direct sunlight, they reducereflections on surfaces like water and leaves while increasing colour saturation.
05SMARTER PHONESBeing prepared for the shot is essential, so knowing whenthe sun is rising and where makes all the difference. Smartphone apps allow
you to find the right place and time, every time. Planning ahead is critical and seriouslandscape artists will make several visits to a location to capture the perfect light.
06CLOUDY CAPTURESOvercasts days or the dim light of dusk are the bestfor shooting the falls, offering even light across the scene and an
opportunity to play with slow shutters. Somewhere between 2 seconds and 10seconds is ideal to turn the water smooth and velvety. When the sun is too brightyou can use an ND filter to slow down the action as required.
07PIN SHARPCameras have come a long way since the days of film and yourdigital sensor can capture images in far more detail than most lenses can
match. With good glass on the camera, you now have to worry about diffraction and
how it can spoil a lovely landscape. As the f-stop climbs your aperture gets very narrow,like a pinhole, and your images become less sharp. Test for yourself by shooting a sceneat f/4, f/8, f13 and f/22 and see where you first spot the diffraction with your lens.
08WATERFALL WONDERSA waterfall can make a stunning compositionalelement to a landscape shot, breathing motion into your scenes. Watch outfor highlights created by patchy light; cloudy weather can also work to youradvantage in these conditions.
09DYNAMIC LANDSCAPESIt's often the case that your camera can't quitematch the dynamic range of a landscape scene. Bracketing your exposuresand using HDR software allows you to extend the working range of your image,bringing bright skies and shadowy valleys into balance.
10WIDE PRIMESLandscape opportunities often lend themselves to a verywide lens, but the wider your glass the more prone to distortion andaberrations in the edges. Prime lenses will give you the least degradation and
preserve the important foreground detail away from the centre of the lens.
nesting shearwaters since 1859. Every
September the birds arrive home after
their migration from Alaska, ready to nest
and make the most of the summer season.
The week they arrive is mayhem
for locals as flocks of birds arrive
simultaneously and filling the sky with
wings. Port Fairy is a quiet village once
the shearwaters have landed, home to
a small fleet of fishing boats and sailboats.
The estuary is lined with charming
cottages, most of which offer their
accommodation for visitors.
A handful of galleries have appeared
in the township, enough to form an artists
walk and provide a touch of creative
expression to the journey. There are
fine galleries and photographic works
on display at the other end of the Great
Ocean Road in Torquay, but the enclave
of art in Port Fairy is a little more in tune
with the setting.
This remote coastal location has
attracted artists from far and wide to
call it home, resulting in a variety of
mediums that embrace the coastline
colour palette. Whether you enjoy
panoramas, the paintbrush or pastels,
its always satisfying to be in the company
of like-minded creative types.
For more of Ewens adventures
here and abroad, check out
PhotographyForTravellers.com
IMAGES
CRAYFISH BAY
SLOW SHUTTER
(FARLEFT, TOP)Shotwith a Leaf Credo60; Mamiya LS80mm f/2.8 D lens;8sec; f/22; ISO 50
SPOILT
FOR CHOICE
(FARLEFT, BOTTOM)Shot with a Canon1DX; EF24-70mmf/2.8L II lens;
1/160sec; f/2.8;ISO 100
CAPE OTWAY
ECO LODGE
(LEFT)Shot witha Canon 1DsMkIII;EF16-35mm f/2.8lens; 1/400sec; f/10;ISO 200
APOLLO BAY
FARMLAND
(ABOVE)Shot witha Canon 1DsMkIII;EF16-35mm f/2.8lens; 1/100sec; f/13;ISO 400
DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY
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