http://spaforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=4157

Our Hot Springs Sovereign spa (Mid 90’s - Serial # I-261717 ) has the common leak at the bottom of he light-lens penetration through the liner. I was wondering if anyone has successfully removed & replaced one of these lenses before. I was able to remove the top two nuts from the plastic studs, but the 3rd (bottom) was rusted, and just disintegrated, also taking with it the remains of the bottom plastic stud. (It appears as if someone might have tried over-tightening this one nut in the past to stop a leak.) (Pictures Attached)

So, I have the 3 nuts removed, but there is this hard, white substance that looks like it was

painted over the sealing area and the nuts when this lens was installed. The lens won't easily push out (into the tub), and I'm wondering if I should try cutting away this "paint" or "sealant" from the rim of the lens. Maybe then the lens would push out... ???

Just use a chisel and a hammer from the inside of the tub and gently tap around the edges. It should pop right out pretty easily. Then use a 3"disk grinder to remove the old adhesive from the shell.

I don't have the replacement lens yet - Our local supplier is closed weekends. I have a service call scheduled with them in about 10 days to look at it, but I'd much prefer to find out I could do it myself with the right parts & prep (& knowledge!). I'll make sure I find the proper replacement for the lens before I try anything. Do you know of any alternative sources (online, etc.) for the lens? (You mentioned a different style that retro-fits in with some devcon adhesive.) Is Devcon Adhesive what I see painted on the back of the shell, and should the new lens be installed using it Devcon? Should the Devcon be siliconeRTV? ( I assume epoxies would be bad, and I wonder if that's what I see smeared around the dry-side of my light lens.)I've looked at Spapartsnet.com and other sites, but haven't stumbled on anything like the lens I need. So, the lip of the lens on the inside (water-side) of the tub is strong enough to pop the whole thing out with a carefully placed chisel? I guess I can try wrapping a chisel in a t-shirt to prevent scratching the sealing surface..

Wrapping it in a rag would be fine, but I've done about 150 replacements or more without any problems. With those white shell tubs you just have to be careful not to pry between the lens and the shell too much...let the chisel and hammer do the work with quick short blows. Start at the areas where those screws are (from the inside of the tub though) in your pics. Sometimes the whole thing pops right off with only a few shots.

Hey, Dan ~The replacement lens & Devcon (Plastic Welder # 14300?) sounds great.Now I think I understand what you mean about tapping a chisel around the "equipment" side of the lens - not the "water" side. I'm glad I asked my stupid question... (about using a chisel from the water side). I have paypal - If you'd light to reach me on Monday or whenever and let me know what the total would be, I can send you a payment.

Anton, sorry I may have sounded confusing...(you do use the chisel from the water side.) I just meant to start using the chisel at the spot where those screws are. You can usually see the rust spots of the screws from the water side of the lens. I'll check the price Monday AM and let you know. Honestly they come off really easily. I just sent some parts out to Tacoma and they arrived in 2 days, so you should be up and running in no time. With the tub already drained and all the parts and tools together, it should only take about 15 minutes to do.

From Dan:

Do you have the new lens? There is a different style that retro-fits in with some devcon adhesive. The new lens is 2 pieces and a much thicker plastic. The Devcon is a two part epoxy that I get pre-packaged by HotSpring. I can get the materials sent out on Monday if you wish...let me know...thanks dutrumble@hotmail.comI can send you the white replacement lens and proper adhesive if you can't get it locally. I'll have to check the exact cost but I believe I could send it for about $60. If you have a Paypal account I could send it out first thing Monday. Let me know if you have any more questions or want to get the materials. Thanks...Dan.the.spa.manAnton, the lens/Devcon was a few bucks more than I thought...I can send it out priority for $70. If you wish to send me Paypal it's dutrumble@yahoo.com I would send it out today.Sounds like some cool work you do...I went to URI for Wildlife Biology and Marine Affairs, so I'm somewhat familiar with that program.I'll send you a private message with some info for the lens/epoxy: (Link to message)http://spaforums.com/viewtopic.php?p=12841#12841

Yes, Watkins Part # 71832 is the number for the white one. They make them in gray too, it you wish. It is an upgrade - and the only kit available. The nice thing is that once you glue the mount in place you can replace just the lens in the future if needed.The lens comes with complete instructions for installation - follow them.BTW - you should invest in the Devcon kit your dealer will sell you. It is not cheap, but it is by far the right stuff for the job. Do not try to use silicone or other epoxy - unless you are sure it is the same as the Devcon.

DEVCON PLASTIC WELDER – Details & Order :http://www.devcon.com/devconfamilyproduct.cfm?familyid=182&sr=1“I was able to contact Watkins Manufacturing and found that Devcon Plastic Welder is the product to use. Product # is 14300. Costs about $8 to$10 per tube. I used two tubes to install my replacement lens. You have to work fast as it sets up in about five minutes, but it seems to work great. I Googled it and found a good price and great service here:” http://thegluedepot.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=79

Dear Anton,Thank you for your order. Your order number is 1990.Your total is 28.65. Shipping notification will be sent to the email address on the order along with tracking information.

 

Order InformationOrder Number: 1990Order Date: 3/9/2008 12:51:00 PMOrder Status: New Order

Your Shopping Cart

Product Description Price Quantity Total

PLASTIC WELDER in the 50 ml auto mix dispenser. One Of the Most Versatile And Strongest Plastic Adhesives Made. Requires application gun and mixing nozzles for auto mix. Free Gun With Two Case Purchase.

$11.86 2 $23.72

Customizations:  50 ml 14320 Product Total $23.72Shipping & Handling $4.93Final Total $28.65

DEVCON APPLICATION CHART BELOW :

Someone elses Leaky light problem :

Hello all. I have a '94 Soveriegn with a cracked and leaking light lens. My local dealer was able to track down a retrofit light lens kit from Watkins (part # 71832), but not the appropriate epoxy for the install. The instructions say to use Devcon 2 part epoxy that comes in a form for use in a standard caulking gun, but it does not specify what style of Devcon or a part number. I have been on the Devcon website and there are many different styles of epoxy available. The only clues that I have from the Watkins instructions are the dispensing method, the fact that they say it will take 24 hours to cure, and that it uses a mixing nozzel to mix the two parts as it is applied. It needs to be water proof as well given that the lens is submerged. Does anyone have some advice as to which Devcon epoxy is right for the job? Any help is greatly appreciated.

??? Retrofit Lens Kit : Watkins Part # 71832 ???“If you want the right devcon, we have it. Email us at scarritt@snet.net (Hot tub pool boy )or call 860-585-5977 and I'll quote you the price and it would go out fedex monday.” It is a watkins kit with a manual dispensing plunger and mixing tip. My techs use a devcon gun, it's not a typical type caulk gun. The manual plunger works fine.

FIBERGLASS REPAIRS:Empty spa and flip it so that you have the easiest access to the back of the crack.

Apply a "Large Crack Repair Kit" from a Watkins dealer. This is a two-part kit: one part has a bunch of fiberglas cloth, gloves, paint brushes, mixing buckets, stirring sticks, instructions, and a replacement insulation blanket to put over the completed repair.

The second part has the epoxy resin and catalyst.

Cut away the equipment box and remove any insulation to expose the back of the crack, and cut four sheets of glass cloth to cover the crack. You should follow the instuctions here, but the basic rule is to cut the glass cloth about six inches on either side of the crack if at all possible. Each layer can be smaller, the last layer can be as little as an inch on each side of the crack. I don't think it really matters if you put the large layer on first or last, but the instructions call for it to be last.

Clean and dry the surface - wipe with acetone or MEK. It's not a bad idea to put some tape on the crack on the inside of the spa in case you squeeze some epoxy through from the back as you are working.

Mix the epoxy resin and catalyst, and paint it onto the surface where you will put the glass cloth. Then put the cloth in place - it will stick to the resin easily. Paint over the cloth, and put the next layer of cloth on. Paint over it, and so on until you have four layers

over the crack. I find that putting marks on the surface outside of the repair area is helpful: once you put the first layer of epoxy on you may not be able to remember exactly where the crack is.

Let is set up overnight, and then reinstall equipment and flip and fill the tub. If it leaks, and it might, you will have to do a surface repair. On an older tub you just get a "surface repair kit" from the dealer. It's a little over ten bucks IRCC, and it contains just a bag of pellets. The pellets are softened in MEK overnight to make a paste, and then just paint it on the inside of the spa over the crack. Work it into the crack, and then finish it to the level you desire: that is, you can just slop it on and be happy, or you can work unitl you have a nice finish which matches the rest of the spa. Consider that it will be under water, and make your own choice on that one.