fair trade magazine - summer / fall 2015

fair tradeF R E E

Summer / Fall 2015

C A N A D A’ S V O I C E F O R S O C I A L S U S T A I N A B I L I T Y

West African cotton producers

Giving spice growers a fair shake

Fair trade consumers in the

global south

Our artisan partners craft beautiful pieces from

reused and recycled magazines and newspapers.

Discover the amazing stories behind these and

all our products in-store, at a festival sale

or online at tenthousandvillages.ca

© Lynn Johnson

SOME MAGAZINES WERE NEVER MEANT FOR THE BIN

/VillagesCanada

C F T N .C A | 3

growing change

17 Shifting Supply Chains, Redirecting Capital If every Canadian bought only fair trade coffee, the effects

would be tremendous.

25 Fair Trade Revisited How fair trade consumers in the global south can inspire

Canadians to change the way we grow and sell our food.

recipe

features

Tofu and Shrimp Curry with Lime Nut ButterCooking for vegetarians and meat lovers? We’ve got a recipe that will please a crowd and introduce a fair trade twist.

summer / fa ll 2015 | issue #6

28

on the cover

West African fair trade cotton .................................11

Smallholder spice farmers ........................................20

South-south fair trade ................................................ 25

inside

Publisher’s Letter ............................................................6

What Is Fair Trade? ........................................................7

Fair Trade in Canada .....................................................8

book review

30 In Defense of Small Producers: The Story of CLAC

photo credits

AFNR: 26 (bottom and right)

Jaromir Chalabala: 20

Pat Crocker: 3 (bottom), 28

Fairtrade Canada: 8 (top)

Fair Trade Guelph: 9 (top)

Fair Trade Hudson: 9 (bottom)

Marise May: 23

Oxfam Quebec: 9 (centre)

Gail Palethorpe: 7

piXrani: 6

Shutterstock: 3 (top), 7, 17–18, 22,

25, 26

Éric St-Pierre: Cover, 3 (middle)

11–13*, 21

UNBC: 8 (bottom)

*Images originally appear in St-Pierre’s book, Fair Trade: A human journey

(Goose Lane Editions, 2012)

Unravelling the Impacts of Fair TradeFair trade cotton came to West Africa in 2004. We review the economic, social, and political repercussions for producers and their communities.

11

Better Butter Chicken with Fair Trade SpicesThe story of spices goes beyond your Tuesday night dinner. Read about spice farmers and their struggle to eke out a living amid tough global competition.

20

4 | FA I R T R A D E M A G A Z I N E C A N A D A’ S V O I C E F O R S O C I A L S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y

Publisher | Sean McHugh

Managing Editor | Erik Johnson

Proofreader | Bryce Tarling

Contributers | Pat Crocker, Nettie Cronish,

Zack Gross, Krista Pineau,

Will Richter, Lia Walsh

Cover Photo | Éric St-Pierre

Original Design | Wade Stewart

Issue Layout | Erik Johnson

We want to hear from you!

514 – 207 West Hastings Street,

Vancouver, BC V6B 1H7

1-604-685-6005 | [email protected]

The Canadian Fair Trade Network (CFTN) is a non-profit organization that works with civil society and industry stakeholders to advance awareness and support for fair trade in Canada. It supports collaboration and best practices within the fair trade movement to increase Canadian commitments to international social responsibility. cftn.ca

Fair Trade Magazine is published by the Canadian Fair Trade Network. Copyright 2015. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without publisher’s written permission. Not responsible for unsolicited editorial material.

The information provided in this magazine is for educational and informational purposes only. Fair Trade Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it provides but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions.

Canadian Fair Trade NetworkRéseau canadien du commerce équitable

C F T N .C A | 5

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

FairtradeMagazineMay2015_final_crvs.pdf 1 2015-05-26 2:48 PM


publisher’s letter

T h is yea r ma rks the ta rget date for the U N ’s Millennium Development Goals. These goals, set by

the global community in 2000, sought to reduce poverty, malnourishment, disease, and child mortality, as well as improve education, gender equality, maternal health, and environmental sustainability. The targets were lofty, but the world responded. By 2014 there were 700 million fewer people living below the USD$1.25 poverty line than there were in 1990. More children attend school. More people have access to clean drinking water. But 1.2 billion people still live in extreme poverty. And 842 million suffer from malnourishment, including 99 million children under the age of five. Yes, education and literacy rates are improving, but 906 million people still lack reading and writing skills, and 60 percent

of these are women. On top of this, carbon dioxide emissions have increased 46 percent since 1990, increasing as much as 5 percent between 2009 and 2010 alone. The fair trade movement has grown steadily over the past 15 years, increasing its capacity to empower the impoverished. There are currently 1.5 million farmers and workers producing Fairtrade-certified products, with worldwide sales exceeding CAD$7 billion between 2012 and 2013. Through Fairtrade Premiums, over CAD$123 million was invested in community development projects during that same period. In Canada, municipalities, university campuses, and now high schools are leading the way, rethinking purchasing, infrastructure, and investment. Renewable energy sources are growing in popularity. More and more Canadians are recognizing the value of buying sustainable products. It feels like a turning point is right around the corner. This September, the UN will launch its Sustainable Development Goals, which will set new targets to eliminate poverty and hunger, take action against climate change, and establish education, gender equality, and sustainable consumption patterns by 2030. I know that fair trade will be a part of the solution, a path toward reaching these goals, and I hope, over the next 15 years, you’ll choose to walk that path with me and millions of others.

Sean McHughPublisher, Executive DirectorCanadian Fair Trade Network

aFairTrade campusProud to be

WORKINGto overcome poverty

CREATINGa better society

ENGAGINGthe world

INSPIRINGpeople around us

Will 2015 Be a Year to Remember?

C F T N .C A | 7

What Is Fair Trade?Fair trade is a powerful tool that aims to empower marginalized producers

to improve their own living conditions. With the proper resources, capacity,

and access to key relationships, disadvantaged producers are able to earn

their own means to a better life for themselves and their communities.

Protections versus rightsMa ny internationa l development programs are geared toward establishing protections for workers around the world, yet workers wouldn’t need these protections if they had proper rights to begin with. Fair trade aims to empower producers by ensuring they have access to the rights they deserve. This involves letting them have their say in the issues that affect them.

Process and verificationFair trade products can be just like any other. Because production and trade standards cannot be verified by looking at a final product, certification and labelling systems are used to verify fair practices.

The fair trade movementFair trade offers a vehicle for promoting discussion and awareness around global issues. It’s about rethinking our production and consumption systems, and recognizing the role we play in creating a fair and sustainable world. Despite its long history among niche markets, fair trade is relatively new for mainstream consumers, and it is still evolving. The fair trade of today won’t be the fair trade of tomorrow. It is our responsibility—whether it be as a consumer, business, institution, or certifier—to ensure that our notions

of fair trade continually meet the challenges of global development. We have the power to make choices that support greater accountability and transparency. By supporting the awareness and availability of fair trade products, we encourage a more responsible vision for the future while contributing to the development of sustainable communities.

Goals for fair trade

• Producers are paid a fair price

that covers costs of production

and adequate living standards for

hired labour.

• Producer groups ensure high

standards for labour, environmental

sustainability, and respect for

cultural identity.

• Producers are paid a premium

that supports business

development and community

initiatives such as improving

access to health and education.

• Producers, consumers, and

businesses build stronger

connections, reducing

inefficiencies and encouraging

direct relationships.

• Producers have access to

credit, markets, resources, and

industry knowledge.


Fair Trade in Canada

Fairtrade Ice Cream Free Cone Day came to McGill, Ryerson, and Simon Fraser universities on April 14. Students were treated to Fairtrade ice cream courtesy of Ben & Jerry’s.

Fair NecessitiesPartnering with Montreal-based Van Houtte, A&W now serves Fairtrade coffee in its restaurants across Canada.

World Fair Trade DayMay was Fairtrade Month, and May 9 was World Fair Trade Day. Events included a celebration at Eau Claire Market in Calgary and the Fair Trade Soirée Équitable in Ottawa, both featuring several speakers, fair trade and local refreshments, and live music. Quebec City stretched its annual Fairtrade Fortnight into an entire month.

Canadian FavouriteKicking Horse Coffee was voted Canada’s favourite Fairtrade product for 2015.

Fair Trade MeetupsIn February, Fair Trade Vancouver hosted Fair Trade Made, a meetup featuring a presentation and panel that discussed issues affecting workers in the garment industry—as well as possible solutions. In April, the focus turned to jewellery with their Golden Opportunity event. Attendees learned about artisanal and small-scale mining, and how fair trade benefits mining communities across the global south.

Fair Trade CampusOn January 27, the University of Northern British Columbia (UNBC) was designated Canada’s ninth Fair Trade Campus. “This designation is just the beginning,” said UNBC Sustainability Manager Kyrke Gaudreau. “UNBC will continue to find new ways to ensure the university’s teaching and research operations are sustainable.”

Future SustainabilityThe Alberta Association of Student’s Councils and Advisors (AASCA) Senior High Student Leadership Conference, May 10 to 12, was designated a Fair Trade Event. Fair trade–certified products were served, sold, displayed, given away, and highlighted in the program. Each delegate received a backpack made by a women’s co-operative in Kolkata, India.

Canada

Vancouver

Prince George

OldsUNBC, Canada’s ninth Fair Trade Campus

Free Cone Day arrives at universities across Canada

C F T N .C A | 9

2016 Host CityWinnipeg will host the 2016 National Fair Trade

Conference, which is scheduled for February 18 to 20, 2016. “Don’t let our winters scare you off,” said

Zack Gross of Fair Trade Manitoba. “Winnipeg isn’t cold, it’s cool.”

Another Successful Fair Trade ChallengeFair Trade Manitoba hosted its ninth annual Fair

Trade Challenge, which launched Valentine’s Day and continued into the middle of March.

Fair Trade FridaysBrandon, one of Manitoba’s two Fair Trade Towns, continued Fair Trade Fridays, encouraging people to visit cafes that serve fair trade–certified coffee.

Canada’s Second Fair Trade SchoolStonewall Collegiate was named Canada’s second

Fair Trade School on June 10.

Fair Trade ShowToronto hosted another successful Fair Trade

Show on June 13 and 14.

Fair Trade TownOn May 19, Guelph was recognized as Canada’s

20th Fair Trade Town.

National Fair Trade Conference, January 2015Canada’s largest fair trade conference to date!

Participants included Harriet Lamb, CEO of Fairtrade Interntional, and Marike De Pena, chair of

the board for both Fairtrade Interntional and a producer network based in Latin America.

Canada’s First Fair Trade SchoolÉcole Secondaire De Mortagne was designated

Canada’s first Fair Trade School on April 7. “Volunteering with fair trade is a good opportunity

to grow as an individual. It is an honour to have played a role in obtaining the designation,” said Catherine Levasseur, a student at École

Secondaire De Mortagne.

Fair Trade TownHudson became Canada’s 21st

Fair Trade Town on May 19.

Montreal

Hudson

Boucherville

Winnipeg

Brandon

Stonewall

Toronto

Guelph

Hudson, Que, Canada’s 21st Fair Trade Town

École Secondaire De Mortagne, Canada’s First Fair Trade School

Guelph, Ont, Canada’s 20th Fair Trade Town

1 0 | FA I R T R A D E M A G A Z I N E C A N A D A’ S V O I C E F O R S O C I A L S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y

C F T N .C A | 1 1

I n 1964, the global community gathered in Geneva for the United Nations

Conference on Trade and Development. It was here that representatives from nations in the global south made a collective call for better and stronger com merci a l exch a n ge s bet ween northern and southern countries, asking for “trade, not aid.” In the decades since, fair trade has become one potential avenue to meeting this request for stronger and more respectful trade partnerships. Fair trade took root in Christian movements over sixty years ago in

West African Fair Trade Cotton: Unravelling the impacts on producer communitiesBY K R ISTA PI N E AU

feature

England, France, the United States, and the Netherlands. Over the years, it has grown through a variety of certification bodies to reach global sales of nearly CAD$7 billion in over 20 different products. Fair trade Internationa l (FLO) is one such certifying body. It has succeeded in fostering a niche market to occupy an important, if not still limited, part of the global marketplace. This organization now unites over 74 producing countries and millions of people, of which over 850,000 are African farmers and workers. If fair trade is one response to the

call made over 50 years ago by southern countries, what has the actual impact been on producing communities? Here we will brief ly examine the social, economical, and political impacts of Fairtrade certified cotton in Mali and Burkina Faso, two of the largest cotton producers in Africa and among the poorest countries in Sub-Saharan Africa.

West African cotton industry For West A frica n producers, the introduction of Fairtrade-certified cotton in 2004 was revitalizing, given

In Kita, Mali, Téréna Keita’s children ride home after a day’s work


the 70 percent decline of global cotton prices since 1990. In addition to volatile exchange rates, the increasing popularity of synthetic f ibres, technologica l improvements, and China’s fluctuating role as either an exporter or importer, a major contributor to the declining prices was American cotton subsidies. Certain studies estimate that the elimination of these subsidies would increase the world prices by 6 to 14 percent and thus increase West African farmers’ revenues by 8 to 20 percent. The cotton management systems

are somewhat similar in both Mali and Burkina Faso. In the former, the Compagnie Ma lienne pour le Développement des Textiles (CMDT), a public enterprise, manages cotton production. In the latter, the industry is run by a joint entity comprising SOF I T E X (a pr ivat e compa ny), Geocoton (previously DAGRIS, a French

holding company), and the government of Burkina Faso. Essentia lly, the organizing body in each nation manages cotton production by selling seeds to producers on credit, helping them find equipment, and offering technical and capital support. Producers then pay back their debts when the organizing body purchases their harvest at a fixed price. It’s important to note that the fixed-price scheme encourages a higher quantity of product at the expense of quality. To promote higher quality, FLO certifications are granted to the co-operatives that produce the best-quality cotton and also meet FLO’s labour standards. The higher, guaranteed Fairtrade prices encourage better labour practices and give farmers an incentive to improve their product.

Social impacts of fair tradeGenderData on fema le pa r ticipation in Fa ir trade-cer tif ied co-operatives looks promising at first glance. When Fairtrade cotton launched in Mali in 2004, 17 percent of the 588 producers were women. By 2006, over 1,200 women were producing Fairtrade-certified cotton—40 percent of all Fairtrade-certified cotton producers in Mali. By 2012, one region, Yanfolina, boasted nearly 50 percent women producers, including four who were co-operative presidents. It is important, however, to respect the theor y of cultura l relativ it y. One study published in Mondes en Développement in 2012 found that the

Fairtrade pricing provides stability and predictability, allowing farmers to plan their next

crop and send their children to school

Téréna Keita inspects his crop

in Kita, Mali

C F T N .C A | 1 3

increase in women’s participation was not an indicator of success, but rather of men’s distrust of the FLO system. They preferred to maintain the status quo by working with the conventional market rather than risk the unknown by adopting FLO standards. Citing interviews with Malian workers, the study also revealed that some men felt shame over not adequately providing for their families when one or more of their wives participated in co-operatives. More research is needed to clarify how fair trade principles affect a society’s culturally embedded expectations, including gender roles.

EducationEducational impacts are largely positive, with the Fairtrade Premium allowing bottom-up initiatives, such as the creation and maintenance of schools, to flourish. The Dougoroukoroni co-op in Mali was the first all-female cotton co-operative to receive a Fairtrade Premium. They invested it directly into the construction of a school—which was immediately filled with eager students.

Also, higher salaries allow farmers to hire workers, thus freeing their children to attend school.

Economic impactsThe economic benefits of Fairtrade production are easily identifiable. In Mali, the fixed FLO price of 238 CFAF/kg is considerably higher than the average world price of 180 CFAF/kg. Fairtrade International pricing provides stability

and predictability, allowing farmers to plan their next crop and send their children to school. Lesser known are the indirect economic effects of FLO certifications. One study shows that cotton quality increases by 7 percent in FLO co-

operatives a nd by 5 percent i n nei g h b ou r i n g c onvent ion a l c o -operatives due to technique sharing.

Additional revenues to both FLO and conventional co-operatives, because of superior quality, could increase the market value of all West African cotton. Finally, higher revenues result in more startup companies, which can, in turn, create wealth.

Political ImpactsFair trade seeks to counter the neoliberal capitalist system, which is based on

Traditional African societies provide a fertile ground for the development of co-operative–type

projects

Workers spin cotton at

Comatex in Mali


competition, with an alternative based on transparency, democracy, and social justice. Even though this approach is still unconventional, the rising consumer demand for socially responsible products has encouraged its adoption in mainstream markets. It’s important to ensure that the integration of large, multinational corporations challenges, rather than exacerbates, exploitation and social inequalities.

The organization of work in the form of co-operatives is not a new concept for West African workers. In fact, McSween and Favreau, in a co-authored chapter of Mettre en marché pour une cause, note that the solidarity practices of traditional African societies provide a particularly fertile ground for the development of co-operative–type projects. The FLO standards do, however, add several advantages. From a micro-economical perspective, the communal decision-making process encourages local wealth redistribution, especially with social project investments from the Fairtrade Premium. Additionally, because Fairtrade standards require proportional representation, women are more involved, especially with regards to the investment of the Fairtrade Premium. From a micro-institutional perspective, FLO equips workers with the tools necessary to operate transparently and democratically. Finally, non-FLO co-operatives tend to unionize more often when a FLO co-operative is located nearby. The fair trade movement has expanded over the years as it attempts to answer a 50-year-old demand for “trade, not aid.” A review of the social, economic, and political transformations in communities with Fairtrade-certified cotton co-operatives reveals that this type of trade is largely beneficial to the participating farmers and the communities that surround them. N

Krista Pineau has been involved with the fair trade movement since 2012 working

on Fair Trade Town and Campus programs. She is a member of the Canadian Fair

Trade Network’s board of directors.

www. t egao rgan i c t ea . com

Learn more atequifruit.com

FANCY FAIRTRADE BANANAS

for your next community event?

Equifruit believes inbuilding partnershipswith community &campus groupswho advocate for fairtrade. Drop us a line! Let's work together tomake bananas fair.

Communal decision making encourages local wealth

redistribution

C F T N .C A | 1 5

Thank you!For over 15 years, Camino has been working directly with small-scale farmer co-operatives in the South. Our work as 100% fair traders has not wavered since we pioneered fair trade cocoa and sugar in Canada in 1999. As we celebrate this milestone, our co-op and the co-ops of small-scale family farmers from whom we source THANK YOU for your ongoing support.

camino.ca

Co-op Cocabo, Panama

Pub-FairTradeMag-Camino-20150520-3.indd 1 2015-06-01 13:37


www.pureart.ca

_________________________________________________________

. . .

. . .

At PURE ART, every Fair Trade purchase connects you to the Pure Art Foundation’s vision of empowering communities to develop sustainably in Peru & Tanzania.

SHOPPING

HEALTH + SHELTER + EDUCATION + SKILL DEVELOPMENT

PURPOSE

THE ART OFTHE ART OF ___

@PureArt

___

with a

C F T N .C A | 1 7

Shifting Supply Chains, Redirecting Capital:The fair trade movement presents greater

opportunities than we may thinkBY SE A N McH UGH

W hat would happen if every Canadian drank only fair trade coffee? Remember that coffee is the second-

most traded commodity in the world, and in 2014, Canadians imported over CAD$713 million of non-roasted coffee. Combine it with sugar, cotton, tea, rice, cocoa, olive oil, spices, fresh produce, clothing, and other essentials, our total imports added up to $638 billion last year. Many of these imports come from the global south, from places we commonly describe as “developing” countries. For instance, the top 10 coffee-exporting nations are Brazil, Vietnam, Colombia, Indonesia, India, Ethiopia, Honduras, Peru, Guatemala, and Mexico. Along with coffee, these nations also produce other globally in-demand commodities. Based on the high demand for their commodities, one might assume that these prolific exporters should be among the world’s wealthiest nations. This is simply not the case. A quick look at each coffee-export leader’s rank on the UN’s Human Development Index, which assesses quality of living, health, life expectancy, and education levels, shows a lack of correlation between lucrative exports and human development.

growing change

The example of coffee shows that participating in trade doesn’t necessarily lead to wealth, opportunity, and development—and this is a serious flaw in the present global distribution system. We could connect this imbalance to colonial history, to destruction wreaked through wars and natural disasters, or to a lack of social structures and protections in parts of the global south. Instead, we have the opportunity here to look at possible solutions.

Creating balance through legislationAll systems need boundaries to ensure both balance and longevity. This is true for our natural world as it is for our social, economic, and political worlds. To achieve this balance, social structures need to be established on a global level, protecting the rights and freedoms of all. Canadians fought hard for regulations to protect workers and ensure fair wages, safe working conditions, and the right to form unions. But many nations in the developing world face incredible challenges in achieving these protections. What if these rights, regulations, and protections were available to


everyone? Seems ideal, right? We could answer by saying this will all happen at some point down the road, somewhere in the future. But what is stopping us from building this world today? Regulations are set by a government in response to the voice of its citizens. If every Canadian bought only fair trade coffee, do you think governments in the developing world would notice? What if every Canadian invested exclusively in sustainable companies?

Think about what you buyStart with the CAD$638.7 billion of imports we bring into Canada every year. This number is an accumulation of the daily purchases we make: coffee beans, clothing, and sugar, to name a few. But how often do we think about the people who produced these goods? The families who planted, cultivated, and harvested them? We see items on store shelves with labels that provide some basic information. But what the labels don’t say is that many products are both socially and environmentally detrimental. Their quality is dubious. The people who grew or made them probably don’t earn a decent living. This isn’t the case for all products. Fair trade products create less environmental impact, contribute to greater social good, benefit those who grow and make them, and are generally high quality. The main goal of fair trade isn’t just to inform

consumers; rather, fair trade is a means to enact change. But is this means reaching its potential? When Fairtrade-certified coffee co-ops still sell 69 percent of their beans, on average, through conventional channels, it suggests we’re not realizing fair trade’s system-changing potential. Canadians also don’t recognize their individual power to use this tool. If all 35 million of us chose to buy fair trade products, it could create more than just a warm fuzzy feeling across the nation: It could change our global economy. If all 35 million Canadians suddenly shifted their purchasing, money would be rerouted through a different and, I would argue, better supply chain. Money would flow through businesses that respect their workers and the environment, down cleaner, more sustainable supply chains, to co-ops and producers who are treated and compensated fairly. These cleaner supply chains would become the new normal, and producers would be empowered to make decisions for themselves. Businesses would need to adapt. This is the power that each of us has, and this is the opportunity we have to take a dramatic step forward to build the world that we want to see. N

Sean McHugh is the executive director of the Canadian Fair Trade Network and

publisher of Fair Trade Magazine.

Rank among coffee producers Rank on UN Human Development Index

1. Brazil 79

2. Vietnam 121

3. Colombia 98

4. Indonesia 108

5. India 135

6. Ethiopia 173

7. Honduras 129

8. Peru 82

9. Guatemala 125

10. Mexico 71

C F T N .C A | 1 9

Fresh.Beautiful.Ethical. A Gesture of love for one. An act of support for many.

Distributor of Fairtrade certified flowers

Winnipeg | Saskatoon | Edmonton | Calgary | Vancouver www.floristssupply.com

Order your Fairtrade roses at any of the following retailers: Edward Carrierre, Winnipeg, MB Fresh Cut Downtown, Winnipeg, MB Generation Green, Winnipeg, MB The Floral Fixx, Winnipeg, MB U Floria, Winnipeg, MB Carman Florist, Carman, MB The Flower Forest, Dryden, ON Grammie’s Gift Emporium, Wawota, SK Falher IDA Pharmacy, Falher, AB Moniek’s in Lacombe, AB Choices Markets, BC Thrifty Foods, BC Steveston Super Grocer, Richmond, BC Claytons Heritage Market, Sechelt, BC Meinhardt Fine Foods, Vancouver, BC Nesters Market on Main, Vancouver, BC Olla Urban Flower Project, Vancouver, BC The Flowerbox Florists, Vancouver, BC West Van Florist, West Vancouver, BC

www.fairtrade.ca

75768 FS Fair Trade Ad.indd 1 12/5/15 11:25 pm


feature

Giving Spice Producersa Fair ShakeBY W I L L R ICH T E R

C F T N .C A | 2 1

Giving Spice Producersa Fair ShakeBY W I L L R ICH T E R

C onsider murgh makhani, better known in Canada as butter chicken. The dish, first whipped up in a small

Delhi restaurant to save leftover chicken from spoiling, is now a fixture on the global menu—a prime example of the world’s seemingly effortless culinary cosmopolitanism. The story is in the spices. Once almost impossible to obtain in Europe or North America, the ingredients of a good butter chicken are now commonplace. We open our cupboard and

see black pepper, cinnamon, cumin, turmeric, and countless others clattering around in old mismatched jars, their origins either forgotten or never thought about. But the story of spice is as fraught as ever. Disassemble your butter chicken and search out the sources of its parts, and you will find a host of troubling issues: precarious livelihoods, struggling communities, crooked traders, poisons, even death. There are also stories of hope, growing prosperity, and a healthier and more sustainable path forward for spice producers and consumers alike.

What’s in that pepper shaker, anyway?Let’s take pepper. No good butter chicken can do without black pepper and, indeed, not many dishes can. But where, really, did that pepper in your butter chicken come from? Once, it would have originated on a small farm plot in India. Today, however, the majority of black pepper imported into Canada is grown on large plantations in Vietnam. Smallholder Indian farms that have grown spices sustainably for generations must now compete on unequal footing with large-scale, lower-priced competitors with far better access to international markets. Today, even products claiming to be premium-grade Indian pepper might actually be from somewhere else, with

Before fair trade came along, what would they do? They’d put their spices in a burlap sack and ship them off to the local trading

company. They wouldn’t get even the international price.

Workers sort Fairtrade-certified pepper in Sri Lanka

unscrupulous traders importing cheaper, lower-quality pepper into India, repackaging it, and selling it as a product of India. “Most of the pepper that people have been consuming as Malabar pepper isn’t actually Malabar pepper,” says Christopher Jared, owner of Peter Piper Pepper, a Canadian fair trade spice company that works with growers in the Malabar region of India. Reached by phone in his snow-caked office in Mississauga, Ontario, Jared continues with a note of exasperation. “So you’re a small family farm, and you’ve got one edge on the world, and it gets ripped out from underneath you.”

A blocked path to prosperitySmall-scale Indian spice farmers, like other smallholders in India, don’t need extra hurdles thrown into their path. The Indian agricultural sector, of which 80 percent is made up of small and marginal farms, has experienced sluggish growth in recent years, and individual farmers and their families regularly face hardships around their basic livelihoods, food security, and indebtedness to informal lenders. In recent years, price fluctuations, drought, and chronic debt have also contributed to a soaring suicide rate among Indian farmers, suicides that are often committed by ingesting pesticides. For spice farmers, as with other small farmers, a key economic disadvantage is their inability to access international markets and get a fair price for their products. “Before fair trade came along, what would they do?” asks Jared, referring to his Fairtrade-certified partners in India. “They’d put their spices in a burlap sack and ship them off to the local trading company. They wouldn’t get even the international price.”

A fairer way forwardIn a mountainous region of Malabar, home to an elephant reserve, jungle-like mixed-crop organic farms carve through the sloping landscape. It is here that Jared’s company has created partnerships with local farmers, paying a fair trade price that exceeds the international standard, as well as a premium that recognizes the value of the farmers’ organic spices. The company also pays an additional Fairtrade Premium to the local co-op, money the co-op members have used to expand their spice-processing capacity—a significant upgrade that has roughly doubled their revenue. The processing facility also provides jobs to the local community. Another benefit of fair trade, says Jared, and one that is often overlooked, is the dialogue that takes place between producers and their fair trade partners. In the case of his Malabar partners, the co-op is now using its new processing

The toxic side of spiceAs with other non-organically-produced crops,

spices are commonly grown and processed

with the use of pesticides and other chemicals

that can leave residues on the finished

products.

One example is ethylene oxide, a commonly

used spice decontaminant. Ethylene oxide

destroys mould, yeast, bacteria—including

salmonella and E. Coli—and other pathogens.

It’s also a known carcinogen. Another

potentially harmful agrochemical is the

herbicide glyphosate, more commonly known

as Roundup, which has been linked to a

chronic kidney disease epidemic among Sri

Lankan farmers.

Fairtrade-certified spices, by contrast, are

subject to environmental standards that limit

the use of agrochemicals in harvesting and

processing, and demand safe handling and

application. Instead of ethylene oxide, for

instance, fair trade processors use steam.

Fair trade producers also receive training on

integrated pest management (IPM) techniques,

a pest control system that uses monitoring,

crop rotation, pheromones, and natural

predators. IPM practices allow for controlled

pesticide use, but only as a last resort.

C F T N .C A | 2 3

capabilities—as well as marketing knowhow picked up from Peter Piper Pepper—to sell its products in local markets.

A global ingredient list, a model that worksBlack pepper is, of course, just one ingredient that composes our fictional butter chicken, and India is just one country that contributes significantly to the world supply of spices. But the issues faced by small-scale Indian spice farmers are not unique. In neighbouring Sri Lanka, for instance, spice farmers also suffer from the same poor market access, likewise leaving them at the mercy of profit-skimming middlemen. Sri Lankan farmers also grapple with the destabilizing effects of inconsistent harvests, shifting international prices, and a lack of local infrastructure. Contrast this with the case of the Small Organic Farmers’ Association (SOFA), a Sri Lankan Fairtrade-certified co-op whose members include over 1,000 smallholder spice farmers. Through the Fairtrade system, SOFA members earn both a fair price for their goods as well as a Fairtrade Premium, through which they have created a preschool, a water project, farming management training programs, and school scholarships, among other programs and benefits. Yes, butter chicken is delicious, but what goes into the dish reaches far beyond our taste buds. It can enrich middlemen, large plantation owners, and dishonest traders, or it can provide stability and a better life for smallholder farmers and their communities. It can give producers a leg up, or it can help shove them down into poverty. It’s a choice we make with every bite. N

Will Richter is a freelance writer living in Vancouver.

The trouble with cinnamonOne crop, Ceylon cinnamon, also known

as true cinnamon, aptly illustrates some of

the wider problems faced by small farmers

in the spice industry. In North America,

labels on most ground cinnamon products

don’t distinguish Ceylon cinnamon and

cassia—a cheaper spice that contains high

levels of coumarin, a naturally occurring

chemical compound that has been linked

to liver damage. And thanks to international

competition from producers of cassia, “true”

cinnamon producers, like those in Sri Lanka,

struggle to make ends meet.

“Ceylon cinnamon is a very labour-intensive

crop, which must first be carefully harvested

and then even more carefully peeled and

rolled into quills,” says Marise May, director

of operations for Sahana Ayurvedic Products,

a Canadian company that markets Fairtrade-

certified spices under the Arayuma brand.

“This is highly specialized work, and in a

conventional trading scenario the cinnamon

peeler will not receive fair compensation.”

By contrast, under a fair trade model, hired

labourers such as peelers are guaranteed a fair

wage. As an added bonus, consumers of fair

trade cinnamon also know they’re getting the

real thing.

After true cinnamon is harvested, the bark is peeled off and

left to dry in the sun


*as of May 2015

Five of the nine designated Fair Trade Campuses in Canada have Chartwells as their dining services provider.* Chartwells is proud to continue working with the Canadian Fair Trade Network and our partners to support fair trade initiatives on campuses across Canada. Together, let’s continue to build momentum. Choose, promote and fair trade on your campus.

We fair trade.

C F T N .C A | 2 5

growing change

A s someone who hosts a lot of workshops on fair trade issues,

I’ve had a lot of people ask me why fair trade standards don’t cover Canadian producers. Often, I tell them that the fair trade system was always intended to create avenues for producers in the global south. After all, that’s true. I tell them that Fairtrade International, which has a massive scope internationally, may not be ready to enter the Canadian agricultural climate. That’s also true. But something else that’s just as true is that the global south, insofar as it

produces a tremendous amount of goods, also consumes quite a lot. If a hybrid of fair trade and buy-local policies were to surface, it ought to arise in the global south.

Changing labels: From producers to consumersIn 2009, South Africa became the first so-called producer country to establish a domestic Fairtrade organization. In 2013, Kenya and India followed suit. Brazil became the 26th addition to this international network when Fairtrade Brasil launched this past

The Evolution of Fair Trade: How south-south fair trade initiatives can reshape the global marketBY L I A WA LSH

March. The role of organizations like Fairtrade Brasil is similar to that of Fairtrade Canada: to promote fair trade to domestic consumers. Now, Brazil is producing goods—fresh fruit and berries, juice, honey, and coffee—in the south for the south, under fair trade terms, and including them on shelves next to international fair trade products like Zotter chocolates and Ben & Jerry’s ice cream. Without these local opportunities, certified producers sell what they can to international fair trade buyers and take their remaining product to local markets, where it often receives lower prices.


For those who doubted that Brazil would be a feasible market for fair trade products, there is evidence to the contrary. Poços de Caldas achieved Fair Trade Town status, the first in Brazil, through a substantial local push to promote fair trade consumerism. In a release on the city’s website, Rodrigo Reis, the municipal secretary for economic development and labour, offers words of encouragement, saying, “With the initiative by the city of Poços de Caldas and now officially everywhere

in Brazil, we want to encourage Brazilian consumers to look for fair trade products when shopping. We want them to understand that this simple act will help Brazilian farmers and workers, especially local ones.” Officials from Rio de Janeiro have also consulted with fair trade advocates in Poços de Caldas, as they seek Fair Trade Town status for Rio, a designation that would open even broader domestic avenues for Brazilian producers. Vanusa Gonçalves Toledo, who is part of the COACIPAR orange co-operative in Paranavaí, Brazil, also views south-south trade as a positive development. She explains, “It will create new business opportunities for the small producers in our cooperative to sell Fairtrade-certified orange juice in the Brazilian market. We will no longer have language or trade

barriers and fluctuating exchange rates.” The implications of these new dynamics are profound. We once saw fair trade as a system that facilitated the continued—though less exploitative—dependence of producers on wealthier countries for their livelihoods. Now there is a distinct sense of independence and empowerment emerging in producer countries. After all, why shouldn’t producers sell their products locally for a fair price?

Redefining fair trade in CanadaThe earlier question still remains: Would bringing fair trade principles to domestic agriculture benefit Canadians? The growth of south-south fair trade clears a path for predominantly consumer countries—like Canada—to flip the paradigm. While Brazil’s fair trade engagement has long included producers, its entry into the market as fair trade consumers is very new. In Canada we see the opposite: There is a need to conceptualize what fair trade certification might mean for the producers within one of the world’s most consumerist countries. While the local food movement is strong in Canada and in the US, there are still numerous environmental, social, and economic forces that can make small-scale farming a less-than-perfect livelihood. For instance, while buying local

C F T N .C A | 2 7

food may reduce the greenhouse gas emissions generated by long-distance transportation, industrial farming practices continue to affect the environment. A recent study describes the high carbon costs of food production, which accounts for 83 percent of the yearly carbon footprint created through food consumption by the average US household—with red meat making the greatest impact. Surprisingly, transportation accounts for only 11 percent. Moving away from the environmentally-demanding, large-scale industrial farming would be a shift toward greater sustainability. Fair trade could encourage this transition. The co-operative model, which sees smaller producers pool resources, could be just what small farmers need in order to elbow their way into the market and offer quality food at affordable prices in big supermarket chains across Canada. Imagine a world where the environmental and social protections of fair trade and the benefits of local came together in the same products. The impact would be incredible. The social implications are perhaps even more significant. Some of the conditions afforded to fair trade farmers have yet to become widespread in Canada’s domestic small-scale farming industry. As an example, fair trade guarantees up to 60 percent payment up front for producers, and that credit is essential for farmers. Outputs come first, and yields—where actual income comes from—follow. Farmers who rely on selling their produce at market without these guarantees face fluctuating market prices, even in Canada. In the current climate, participating in farmers’ markets and community-supported agriculture is often all small-scale farmers can do to turn their crops into cash. Let us not forget that we live in an age of globalization, where we rely on international trade to satisfy our consumer wants and needs. Buying local is great, but if you like a cup of coffee with your breakfast or like to wear cotton clothing, remember that coffee and cotton don’t grow in Canada. Brazil, along with other nations in the global south, is in a position to provide for itself in a way that Canada cannot. This reality emphasizes the tremendous potential of south-south trade and highlights the importance of thinking critically about our purchases as Canadian consumers. N

Lia Walsh is a founding member of Fair Trade Ottawa Équitable and an original

board member of the Canadian Fair Trade Network.


recipe

Shrimp and Tofu Curry with Lime Nut ButterBY N ETT I E CRON ISH A N D PAT CROCK E R

A w ide ra nge of f lavours a re combined in this complex curry.

Coconut milk provides a slightly sweet background that balances out the spikes of fresh ginger, grated lime rind, and fresh lime juice. Peanut butter lends richness and a slightly sweet

nutty essence. The secret behind this recipe lies in the toasting of its spices. Fenugreek, cumin, and coriander are a magical trio—each with high-quality, Fairtrade-certified options available in Canada.

28 oz (880 g) firm tofu, rinsed

4 oz (125 g) shrimp, peeled and deveined

(about 8 to 12)

2 tsp (10 mL) Fairtrade-certified whole

fenugreek seeds

1 tsp (5 mL) Fairtrade-certified

whole cumin seeds

1 tsp (5 mL) Fairtrade-certified whole

coriander seeds

1 Tbsp (15 mL) Fairtrade-certified

cinnamon stick, crushed

1 Tbsp (15 mL) Fairtrade-certified ground

turmeric

2 Tbsp (30 mL) Fairtrade-certified olive oil

1 onion, finely chopped

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 Tbsp (15 mL) grated fresh ginger

1 tsp (5 mL) red curry paste

14 oz (400 mL) Fairtrade-certified

coconut milk

1/4 cup (60 mL) peanut butter

2 tsp (10 mL) lime zest

3 Tbsp (45 mL) fresh lime juice

1 Tbsp (15 mL) Fairtrade-certified

brown sugar

1 red bell pepper, cut into 1/2-inch (1 cm) dice

1 cup (250 mL) sliced carrots

1 cup (250 mL) broccoli florets

1/4 to 1 cup (60 to 250 mL) water

Grinding whole curry spicesWhen the toasted spices have cooled, grind

them to your preference, whether fine or coarse.

I suggest that you invest in a second coffee bean

grinder and use it exclusively for spices. This

recipe makes about 1/4 cup (60 mL) with the

addition of the ground turmeric. In this recipe,

use 1 to 2 Tbsp (15 to 30 mL) of the curry spice

according to your taste. Store the remaining

curry blend in an airtight container in a cool,

dark place for up to six months.

C F T N .C A | 2 9

Drain tofu in a large colander over a bowl or in the sink. Cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) cubes and set aside.

Peel and devein shrimp. Rinse under cool water in a colander. Drain, pat dry, and set aside.

Heat a large heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat and then add fenugreek, cumin, coriander, and cinnamon. Dry-roast spices, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes or until golden and lightly toasted. Remove to a small bowl and let cool. Using a mortar and pestle, or an electric grinder, grind toasted spices. Add turmeric, mix well, and set aside. You should have about 1/4 cup (60 mL) of curry spice blend.

Heat oil in the same skillet, over medium-high heat. Add onion, garlic, and ginger and cook, stirring frequently, for 3 to 5 minutes or until onions are soft and translucent. Stir in 1 Tbsp (15 mL) of the curry spice blend, red curry paste, and salt. Cook, stirring constantly, for 30 seconds. Add coconut milk and bring to a simmer, stirring constantly. Add peanut butter, lime zest, lime juice, and brown sugar. Bring back to a simmer, stirring constantly.

Add red pepper, carrots, and broccoli, and bring to a light simmer. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes. Taste and add more curry spice blend if desired. Stir in water, 1/4 cup (60 mL) at a time, if sauce appears to be too thick. If desired, transfer 2-1/4 cups (560 mL) of the vegetables and sauce to a separate saucepan for the shrimp portions.

Add tofu cubes to the skillet and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes or until vegetables are tender. Bring other saucepan to a gentle simmer over medium-low heat. Add shrimp and simmer gently, stirring frequently, for 3 to 5 minutes or until shrimp has turned bright pink. Remove from heat and keep warm. (Do not overcook shrimp because it will become tough and rubbery.)

Serves six (four veggie and two meat servings).

Nettie Cronish is a vegetarian chef, a culinary

instructor, a board member of Fairtrade Canada,

and the author of five cookbooks. Pat Crocker is a

culinary herbalist, a photographer, and the author

of 18 cookbooks. This recipe originally appears

in Everyday Flexitarian ( Whitecap, 2011). It is

reproduced here with permission.

MC/TM


book review

In Defense of Small Producers: The Story of CLAC

By Marco CoscioneFernwood Publishing, 2014240 pages, $29.95 • ISBN: 978-1552666562

R E V I E W E D BY Z ACK GROS S

Fair trade, a niche market, accounts for only 3 percent of the total consumer activity on our planet. And while some conventional market observers and policy makers treat it like a back-burner issue, it is immensely important to millions of agricultural producers and factory workers seeking a better life, and ultimately the millions of shoppers who want to buy ethical and green products. Like the fair trade movement, Marco Coscione’s In Defense of Small Producers is small but mighty! Coscione is a Colombia-based researcher, academic, and organizational consultant who supports fair trade and other social movements in Latin America. Packed with history, politics, and culture, In Defense of Small Producers shows the efforts of small producers, particularly in Latin America, as they work to improve the sustainability of their lives by creating more and better economic opportunities, by improving the social and physical well-being of their communities, and by making their natural environment safe and clean. The book has an attitude: It calls for justice, not charity. It doesn’t hide its outrage over the fact that the people who

provide the most essential service on Earth—growing our food—live in poverty, often overlooked despite their important role. What struck me about Coscione’s book were his descriptions of the issues facing rural producers around the world and his analysis of the debates that exist within the fair trade movement. He successfully supports his arguments with the voices of the Latin American fair trade community, through quotations gathered from his own interviews or from statements made at meetings and events. On the rural development level, Coscione familiarizes his readers with the interlocking puzzle pieces of multinational corporations, unregulated chemical use, north-south relations, land control and acquisition policies, climate change, and water challenges. He shows how these factors combine to impact the people who grow our food. On the internal debates side, Coscione lays out the concerns of fair trade pioneers, who fear that the movement is straying from its intended goals and methods. He outlines the pronouncements of various certification label organizations who are taking parts of the movement in a variety of directions. He singles out Fair Trade USA’s recent support for plantation agriculture. Of course, every book reviewer should find something to quibble about. While In Defense of Small Producers is strong in its ability to voice the struggles of Latin American small producers, within this strength lies the book’s only weakness: At times, the English isn’t entirely accessible. The translation process shows itself. I found myself re-reading certain paragraphs and quotes to make sure that I understood their meaning. Also, some sections sift through policy documents, meeting minutes, and polemical debates—dry reading for those who prefer synopsis over primary sources. For others, these sections give flavour, digging deeper into the passion of those who demand a better deal and a more sustainable and accessible global food system. Regardless of its limitations, In Defense of Small Producers offers valuable insight into and analysis of the issues facing small producers, our commitment to ethical and green production and consumption, and the creation of meaningful certifications and labels. As a post-secondary instructor active in both the fair trade and NGO communities, I found the book to be a useful resource, and I’ve added to and revised my public presentations and lecture notes with material from Coscione’s text.

Zack Gross coordinates Fair Trade Manitoba and is president of the Canadian

Fair Trade Network’s board of directors.

join us for the4th annual National Fair Trade Conference

proudly hosted in

Winnipeg Feb 18-20, 2016

early bird registration opens july 1st

ctfn.ca/conferenceManitoba Council for International Cooperation

M ADE WITH LOVE

Fair Trade Jewellery Co.523 Parliament St. Toronto647.430.8741

#madewithlove @ftjcoftjco.com

CUSTOM DESIGNED. ETHICALLY SOU RCED. M A DE IN TORONTO.

ON HER: STAR SIGN SOLITAIRE IN 18K RECYCLED, NICKEL-FREE GOLD SET WITH A 1-CARAT SIRIUS STAR CANADIAN DIAMONDSTACKER BAND IN 18K FAIRTRADE NICKEL-FREE GOLD & CANADIAN DIAMONDS / ON HIM: BEVELED-EDGE BAND IN 18K RECYCLED, NICKEL-FREE GOLD

fair trade magazine - summer / fall 2015

Documents