finland 2012/13
DESCRIPTION
Davide Cenci has stood for the best of fashion since 1926. Our catalogue/magazine/travel diary is about a journey through the culture and style of some of the most fascinating regions of the world — told through photographs and copy. All designed to be the framework in introducing each new Davide Cenci’s Men’s and Women’s Collections. While maintaining the “Corporate Signature” Sixty-Fifty of the logo in the line of the horizon of every picture. For those hungry for more, we always include a delicious recipe in every new edition.TRANSCRIPT
f i n l a n d
Finland, bordered by Sweden in the West, Norway in the North and Russia in the East, with the majority of its 5.4 million people concentrated in the southern region, is not a country for wimps. It is March, and it is still below zero. But what better way, we thought, to celebrate our Fall/Winter 2012/2013 catalog for Men and Woman, with innovative fabrics like waterproof cashmere and our super light super insulated down coats, in a country that can test them. And a city like Helsinki, World Design Capital for 2012 that can appreciate them.
Design meets design.(Cenci braves latitude 66° 33’ 39” and survives to tell about it)
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F I N L A N D .
The official hometown of Santa Claus. After landing in Rovaniemi, the capital of Lapland, we arrive to a snow and ice covered carpet, pick up our Toyota 4 wheel drive, and head, with some trepidation, for “Napapiiri” the Arctic Circle to meet Santa Claus, known here as Joulupukki. Joulupukki’s house and workshop are situated in the mountains of Korvatunturi, whereas the American counterpart lives at the North Pole. Another difference is that instead of sneaking in through the chimney during the late night hours, Joulupukki gets his jollies coming by the front door route on Christmas Eve, shouting, “Onkos täällä kilttejä lapsia?” (Are there any well-behaved children here?)Imagine our disappointment when we missed the local icon, who was no doubt vacationing elsewhere, since his post office was closed. To make up for missing him, he now appears on our holiday ties, which will give you an opportunity to regale people with your knowledge and history of the real Santa Claus. (Just practice your Finnish).
It’s no joke. To be at least an honorary Finlander, you have to understand Finnish humor, such as it is. So here is Finnish weather explained in Finnish jokes: -20°C/-4°F: The Aussies flee from Mallorca. The Finns end their Midsummer celebrations. Autumn is here.
steel, ice and the sea” will have to go unappreciated. For a few seconds we asked ourselves whether we wanted to spend the night in the ice hotel (Lumilinna), but our response was unequivocal and unanimous. It was time to move on. Should you be so inclined this may be the best way to visit — www.snowcastle.net
The old and the new. Despite the city of Oulu’s role as national leader in the computing and microchip industries, there’s still an old world charm about it. Founded by King Charles IX of Sweden in 1605, it is certainly one of Finland’s most lively cities, with its “Kauppatori,” the famed market square, opened in 1901 next to the Oulujoki River. Besides the traditional market stalls, many old warehouses restored as bars and restaurants are bordering the square nowadays. Along with the meat markets there are fish markets, featuring smoked fish of every description — the pleasing aroma still lingering in our memories as I write this. If you have more time here, do visit the Northern Ostrobothnia museum, which tells the region’s architecture history from ancient times until the 19th century in a high tech way. Even here, as indeed everywhere in Finland, many people are jogging on ice in T-shirts or even going shirtless. Others use the bicycle in the snow. “Southerners”, like us, can only watch in amazement, in our very smart
down jackets. For dinner we booked Sokeri-Jussin Kievari, an old wooden shack, which of course, makes it very trendy. Yes, more reindeer. Is this how you treat Joulupukki’s helpers?
At Pikisaarentie 2, 376-628. The alarm for the next day is at 6 a.m., and an hour later we are already driving with caution, crossing great expansesof spruce, pine and birch heading towards the region of Kainuu. Near Kajaani we decide to see the Keisarintalli, an old barn next to the church of Paltaniemi, dating back to 1726, where the same Tsar Alexander I of Russia ate breakfast and spent the night there in 1819. (On p. 4) The
national sport this season, along with cross-country skiing, is ice fishing. Groups of friends gather in the middle of the lake, with a kind of auger and open up holes in the thick ice and cast their bait, which doesn’t auger well for the fish. The city of Kuopio, officially founded in November 17, 1775, by King Gustav III of Sweden, was next on our agenda.Surrounded by Lake Kallavesi, Kuopia has a unique feature in its street network, where every second street is devoted to pedestrians and bicycles. Look both ways before crossing any street.
Nothing but muikku. Intrigued by a particular fish of the region, heading further north, we stop to talk with the local fishermen. Turns out to be the muikku, a whitefish
-30°C/-22°F: People in Greece die from the cold and disappear from the face of the earth. The Finns start drying their laundry indoors. -50°C/-58°F: Polar bears start evacuating the North Pole. The Finnish army postpones their winter survival training awaiting real winter weather. Well, you get the idea. Maybe that’s why the tourists in this Lapland paradise look like real Arctic explorers, while the Finns simply go about being Finns.Anyway, all this traipsing about did increase our appetites and by 8:30 we found ourselves at the restaurant Nili (www.nili.fl, Valtakatu 20, Rovaniemi ph. 040 036 9669) with its rustic interior replete with reindeer fur, Sami music and old wood, with a menu consisting of reindeer, moose stew, and bear steak. What do the American’s say? Grin and bear it. But don’t think the Finns are a bragging lot; they have just as much fun poking fun at themselves: How can you tell the difference between a Finnish introvert and a Finnish extrovert? When he’s talking to you a Finnish introvert looks at his feet. A Finnish extrovert looks at yours. Fortunately we were wearing our extraordinary Cenci boots.
We missed the boat. The next day we wake up at 6:30 a.m. to the spring solstice and a wonderful day for our photo shoot. Although the weather made us glad this is our Fall/Winter catalog. First destination is Kemi on the Gulf of Bothnia to see the famous arctic icebreaker Sampo, the former icebreaker for the Finnish government. Despite the car ride (on ice) and due to our impeccable Italian timing, we arrive at the pier 30 minutes after the boat had left. So this “union (according to their website)of the majestic
Even here, as indeed
everywhere in Finland, many
people are jogging on ice
in T-shirts or even going
shirtless.
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F I N L A N D .
Runeberg’s Cakes.Named in honor of Johan Ludvig Runeberg, the national poet of Finland, who is said to have had a special liking in cakes similar to these. Runeberg’s birthday is celebrated February 5th, around which time the cakes are sold in many bakeries or made at home. Although the following recipe may seem long and complicated, the cakes are easy to make.
DOUGH.1 egg, 25 ml of sugar, 50 ml brown sugar, 100 grams of butter,50 ml of cream, 200 ml of flour, 1-teaspoon baking powder, 50 grams of ground almonds, 50 ml of finely chopped walnuts or hazelnuts, 1 teaspoon of vanilla sugar, ½ teaspoon of almond essence (Or almond liqueur - for example, “Amaretto”), Raspberry jam Icing sugar.
PREPARATION.Melt the butter and let it cool, whip the cream separately until stiff. Whisk the egg in a separate bowl, adding sugar, flour and baking powder. Then you will mix the almond essence (or liquor), a teaspoon of vanilla sugar, melted butter and whipped cream. When everything is well mixed you add the almonds, walnuts or hazelnuts, finely chopped. Pour the mixture into eight muffin molds and bake at 175
- 200° C for 15 to 20 minutes. You can test the cooking with the toothpick test. After they are cooled, dig a small round hole on top of each, then fill it with raspberry jam (or any other of your choice). Dust with icing sugar. Enjoy.
placed fish, you’ll know what to expect. (Etelaranta 16, 00130 Helsinki, ph. +358 85 800 9612). It is said you know you’ve been in Finland too long, when silence begins to be fun and your coffee consumption exceeds ten cups a day.Yes, on both counts. We are confident that you too will appreciate the air of refined elegance and innovation that reigns in this northern capital, and for that matter, all over Finland. One of the reasons why, we hope, you choose Davide Cenci. As Monty Python said in their gentle spoof: “Finland, Finland, Finland. Finland has it all.” It does. Fin for now.
from the Vendace family. Following the fishermen’s advice, we decide to dine in the restaurant that specializes in preparing these fresh water delicacies. An older woman with a gentle manner greets us at the door of the Vapaasatama Sampo, a cozy and comfortable restaurant that has changed little since the 1930s. Some locals sipping beer and a jukebox
playing Finnish rock from the 70’s greet us. You sit down, and order muikku soup for starters. The broth arrives and a whole school of small fish seems to be swimming in it. We look into the muikku eyes without saying a word, until the bravest of us begin to eat. The others follow suit. The dish
is excellent although you always have the feeling of being fed like a circus seal. But it gets our seal of approval.
Speaking of seals. The next morning we are on the winding roads of the National Park Linnansaari, skirting the shores of Lake Saimaa, famous for the rare freshwater Saimaa Ringed Seal. Unfortunately they are so rare that we have not seen any of them, but we are told they do exist.Luckily in our search for seals, we run into the only castle that exists in Finland, built in 1475, which you can admire
on pages 28-29. We were told the guards were paid in beer. Seven liters on weekdays and almost ten on Sunday. This unique salary speaks volumes about why this impregnable fortress has undergone numerous invasions — most, we presume successful. Since you’re already in the area, do not miss a trip to Porvoo, first mentioned in documents in the early 14th century and the second oldest city in Finland. When visiting the Old Town, try to do it in the late afternoon where you will order a slice of the popular Runebergin torttu at Cafe Helmi, a beautiful old house in the Tsarist-style, dedicated to the great national poet and hunting enthusiast Johan Ludvig Runeberg (www.cafehelmi.net; Välikatu 7). For all those who may not make it to these latitudes, you’ll find Runeberg’s Cupcake recipe at the end of this article as a reward for staying with us on our journey.
Designs on Helsinki. Helsinki, established as a trading town by King Gustav I of Sweden, is Finland’s major political, educational, financial, cultural and research center as well as one of northern Europe’s major cities. As you can see from the photos in this catalog, it’s a city that contains a rich diversity of architectural styles, from art deco to minimalist. Since the beginning of the 50s the most innovative companies have launched a series of collaborations with leading designers and architects, to create products that are unique, in the craftsmanship of glass, wood and new fabrics. While you’re here, try to visit the Museum of Contemporary Art Kiasma and extraordinary architectural wonder that is Helsingin Messukeskus (pgs. 46-47). A final tip for fine dining: Book Havis. With the logo being two artfully
We look into the muikku eyes without saying
a word, until the bravest of
us begin to eat.
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F I N L A N D . Helsinki Lutheran Cathedral and Statue of Alexander II on the Senate Square, Helsinki.
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F I N L A N D .
7.1 Short coat
wool and cashmere Donegal$ 2175
7.2 herringbone Shirt brushed cotton$ 325
7.3 Knitted tie wool and cashmere$ 150
left page
8.1 JacKet with bellow pocKetS
suede elbow patches$ 950
8.2 Melange turtle necK
three ply cashmere$ 695
8.3 Flat Front trouSer
cashmere and cotton$ 395
this page
9.1 JacKet with bellow pocKetS suede elbow patches$ 950
9.2 glen plaid Shirt
$ 275
9.3 cardigan veSt pure cashmere$ 550
9.4 wool and caShMere tie
$ 150
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F I N L A N D .
10.1 loden cloaK with hood
water resistant$ 1500
10.2 glen plaid JacKet
suede elbow patches $ 1650
10.3 pin dot Shirt
brushed cotton$ 325
10.4 Knitted tie
wool and cashmere$ 150
10.5 Flat Front trouSer
wool flannel$ 375
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F I N L A N D .Joensuuntie, Kuopio,Northern Savonia.
11.1 loden coat
wool and alpaca$ 895
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F I N L A N D . Karvio rapids, Heinävesi,Southern Savonia.
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F I N L A N D .
13.1 blouSon with toggle cloSure
$ 625
13.2 button down Shirt
$ 295
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F I N L A N D . Relandersgrund Lightship, Meritullintori, Helsinki.
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F I N L A N D .
15.1 leather car coat $ 2100
15.2 turtle necK Sweater
fisherman cable detail$ 450
15.3 Flat Front trouSer
cashmere and cotton$ 395
16.1 “tabarro” cloaK wool with “beaver” finish$ 1500
16.2 glen plaid Suit $ 2250
16.3 Striped Shirt
$ 250
16.4 SilK tie $ 150
16.5 brigg’S uMbrella whangee handle$ 425
Fascination.Worn by noblemen and peasants, soldiers and
brigands alike, a cloak is one of the few garments in history that can suggest,
elegance, dignity, high drama and an air of mystery all
by itself. The Venetian, Giacomo Casanova
utilized the cloak to cut a wide swatch through most of Europe,
and women (and men) fell under his spell. In Romagna, the landed
gentry in the 1800s would roam around wearing shorter cloaks so they could hide
some sort of items for self-defense. Giuseppe Verdi wore a small caliber gun under his cloak.
Puccini used it for the title of one of his operas, in which the protagonist hides the corpse of his rival under one. In today’s more practical world, the cloak can substitute for a topcoat for some Victorian flair and become quite a
weapon in your arsenal. Ours is still hand-made by expert tailors, in the shape of a full wheel
made out of thick cloth with only one central seam in the back.
Be prepared to fascinate.
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F I N L A N D . Kuopio seen from Puijo tower, Kuopio, Northern Savonia.
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F I N L A N D .
19.1 houndStooth JacKet
$ 1650 19.2 pin dot Shirt brushed cotton$ 325
19.3 Striped tie
pure cashmere$ 225
20.1 ribbed zippered Sweater
pure cashmere$ 1150
20.2 Flannel Sport Shirt
$ 325
20.3 SilK tieS
Santa Claus motif$ 150
21.1 Shawl collar cardigan
cable wool and cashmere $ 525
21.2 harringbone Shirt
brushed cotton $ 325
21.3 glen plaid tieS
pure cashmere $ 250
brandS - uoMo
AllegriBelvestBrigg’sBrunello CucinelliCar ShoeGravatiHernoLoro PianaSantandreaSchneiders
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F I N L A N D . Vasikkasaari, Kuopio,Northern Savonia.
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F I N L A N D .
23.1 Quilted JacKet water resistant wool and cashmere$ 1100
23.2 Flat Front trouSer
cashmere and cotton $ 395
23.3 donegal tie
wool and cashmere $ 150
23.4 Knitted hat pure cashmere$ 150
23.5 double ScarF
cashmere and silk $ 275
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F I N L A N D .
24.1 down coat
$ 795
24.2 zippered ribbed Sweater
pure cashmere $ 1150
24.3 crew necK Sweater
pure cashmere$ 495
24.4 Knitted cap
pure cashmere $ 150
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F I N L A N D .Perämeri, Bothnian Bay,near Kemi, Lapland.
brandS - Junior
Brooks BrothersFayFred Perry HartfordHoganJuccaK-WayMoschinoSun 68Tod’s Woolrich
As the parents we outfitted as children now have children of their own, they have rightly asked why we don’t have a children’s department anymore. Rectifying that oversight, Davide Cenci reopens its children’s department just around the corner from the Rome flagship store, in Piazza Campo Marzio, so named because it is there the Romans built the temple dedicated to Mars. On the right of the entrance you can still see one of the original columns of the temple that is now dedicated to our younger clientele — boys and girls from 2-14 — who will find the same assortment of exclusive garments, international brands, and shoes and accessories found in our Men’s and Ladies’ departments. Not to mention, the same impeccable service that are the Davide Cenci signature. So consider this junior edition a chip off the old block.
:-| :-o wow!Davide Cenci Jr. re-opens in Rome :-D lol
Olavinlinna, Savonlinna,Southern Savonia.
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F I N L A N D . Harbour of Kemi, Gulf of Bothnia.
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F I N L A N D .
31.1 down JacKet with MinK inSertS water resistant cloth$ 4950
31.2 printed ScarF
wool and viscose$ 350
31.3 crew necK blouSe
elasticized silk$ 495
31.4 Suede handbag
$ 595 31.5 leather gloveS
$ 250
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F I N L A N D .
32.1 boiled wool and Shearling cape
$ 1795
32.2 crew necK Sweater
two color basket weave$ 650
32.3 Side entry pant
elasticized wool$ 550
32.4 leather gloveS
$ 165 32.5 pochette with StudS
$ 625
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F I N L A N D .Kermajärvi, Heinävesi.
34.1 handbag with StudS
waxed leather $ 895
34.2 purSe with handleS
woven leather$ 795
35.1 handbag with StudS
$ 895
35.2 purSe with StudS
$ 625
brandS - donna
Amina RubinacciBelvestBrunello CucinelliFabiana FilippiHernoLorena Antoniazzi
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F I N L A N D .
Red Wooden Storage Houses,Porvoo.
36.1 wool and caShMere coat
hand felted cloth $ 1350
36.2 ribbed cowl necK Sweater
wool, cashmere and silk$ 795
36.3 Flannel pant
$ 550
36.4 crochet handbag
$ 895 36.5 leather gloveS
$ 225
36.6 Felt hat
$ 195
When is a coat not just a coat? When it’s achieved through a technical process that true insiders (you now qualify) know as “agugliatura”. In our hands, this luxuriouscoat becomes not only fantastic to look at but also extremely pleasurable to wear. Through, we submit, a technique that few possess. In which the fabric abruptly changes warp and weft developing a herringbone pattern from a solid fabric by switching to a wider needle path. The cloth is then felted with a finishing process done completely by hand. It takes longer but only through this traditional technique can different fibers mesh harmoniously as one and give you the unique look, comfort and feel that has become our trademark.
A pattern to our madness.
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F I N L A N D . Nelostie, Tervola, Lapland.
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F I N L A N D .
39.1 Fur veSt with detachable down coat$ 6500
39.2 Suede handbag with StudS
$ 895
39.3 leather gloveS
$ 250
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F I N L A N D .
40.1 crew necK Fur coat
$ 750040.2 SilK blouSe
$ 495
40.3 v necK Sweater
pure cashmere$ 525
40.4 Flat Front pant
$ 595 40.5 Suede handbag
$ 595
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F I N L A N D . Katajanokka seen from Tervasaarenkannas, Helsinki.
left page
42.1 crewnecK cardigan
pure cashmere$ 795
42.2 SilK blouSe
$ 550
42.3 degradé pattern pant
wool and cotton$ 595
this page
43.1 three button JacKet wool and cashmere$ 1895
43.2 turtle necK Sweater
pure cashmere$ 495
43.3 checKered pant natural stretch wool$ 750
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F I N L A N D .
44.1 down cape
three quarter sleeve$ 750
44.2 turtle necK Sweater
pure cashmere$ 495
44.3 leather gloveS
$ 250
44.4 SliM Fitting pant
double stretch wool$ 705
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F I N L A N D .Helsingin Messukeskus, Helsinki Exhibition & Convention Centre, Helsinki.
45.1 down coat
detachable fur collar $ 895
45.2 handbag with Shoulder Strap
saffiano leather$ 825
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F I N L A N D . Oulujärvi lake, Paltamo.
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F I N L A N D .
47.1 waterprooFed coat silk and cashmere$ 1595
47.2 turtle necK Sweater
pure cashmere$ 495
47.3 Shawl with leather FringeS
$ 1250
47.4 purSe with handleS
woven leather$ 795
DAVIDE CENCITo order from our catalog please contact us at 1 800 528 2515 or visit us at www.davidecenci.com.
ROMA VIA CAMPO MARZIO 1/7 TEL. 06 699 0681MILANO VIA MANZONI 7 TEL. 02 8646 5132
NEW YORK 801 MADISON AVENUE AT 68TH STREET PH. 212 628 5910DAVIDE CENCI JUNIOR - ROMA PIAZZA CAMPO MARZIO 4 TEL. 06 6830 8441
www.davidecenci.com
Perämeri, Bothnian Baynear Kemi, Lapland.
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