haps magazine - korea | issue 31, jun/jul 2014

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Your English Lifestyle Guide to Korea and Beyond.

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  • 2002-present: Associate professor, The Sahlgrenska Academy, University of Gothenburg, Sweden, Professor Young-Taeg Sul graduated Seoul National University in 1987 and received his Ph.D. degree from University of Gothenburg, Sweden in 2002, following a professorship at the Sahlgrenska Acade-my, University of Gothenburg, Sweden. Hashas received widespread recognition, including more than 70 papers in international journals, more than 20 implant-related international patents, and more than 70 invited lectures to professional audiences all over the world. He has been serving as a reviewer for several international scientific journals and is an external expert on international academic positions including clinical research consultant (THE USA DENTAC & THE UNITED STATES ARMY), external and internal chief technology officer or consultant for several implant-oriented commercial companies. Other international awards include several Best Top 10 conference papers (UK 2001, USA 2002, USA 2006), most cited article, top 3 (Med Eng Phys, 2010). In Google Scholar, Professor Suls articles show a total of 2695 science citations, since 2001.

  • 36 years of proud history caring for the specialist needs of the women of Busan.

    English service is available for OB/GYN and Plastic Surgery departments. Native English speaking coordinator is available upon request. We can also provide Chinese, Japanese and Russian translators. Insurance claims can be made on behalf of patients to our partner insurance companies Euro-Center, MSH CHINA, Metlife, Bupa. 24 hours emergency rooms are available at Good Moonhwa and our partner hospitals Good Gang-an & Good Samsun.

    Its Your Choice

    Fertility Center

  • 36 years of proud history caring for the specialist needs of the women of Busan.

    English service is available for OB/GYN and Plastic Surgery departments. Native English speaking coordinator is available upon request. We can also provide Chinese, Japanese and Russian translators. Insurance claims can be made on behalf of patients to our partner insurance companies Euro-Center, MSH CHINA, Metlife, Bupa. 24 hours emergency rooms are available at Good Moonhwa and our partner hospitals Good Gang-an & Good Samsun.

    Its Your Choice

    Fertility Center

    Getting Back Your Baby FaceWhile aging is a natural process, we dont necessarily have to like its physical results. New procedures are available to help turn back the hands of time and restore that youthful glow.

    As people advance in age, it is natural that the contours of the face begin to sag and droop. And while the rest of the body gains weight, facial volume often does not recover. This is behind patients increasing interest to

    restore their facial volume. Recently, various procedures that can increase facial volume and smooth out facial skin have been introduced. Among them, both autologous fat transfer and stem cell transplant procedures have become more popular.

    Autologous fat transfer is a surgical procedure that smooths out facial skin by increasing elasticity and restoring the natu-ral facial line. This is done by transferring unnecessary fat from the lower abdomen, the hips, or the thighs using a specially designed syringe that separates the pure fats before grafting them into wrinkled or shrunken areas of the face. Because the fat is taken from the patients own body, autologous fat trans-fer has fewer side effects and its outcome is more natural com-pared to surgical procedures using artificial implants or syn-thetic materials.

    Autologous fat transfer has the additional advantage of re-shaping the body itself by removing fat in the fleshy lower ab-domen, hips and thighs. Once fat is removed, it can be stored and transferred again later. Because only autologous tissue is used, the graft site retains its previous smoothness, and it is a simple surgery that results in almost no scarring or bleeding.

    Although fat is taken directly from the patients own body, there is a chance that the graft survival rate will be low. The graft survival rate, which dictates the success of fulfilling the patients objectives, is the ratio of grafted tissue that survives when transferred into facial tissue. One way to maximize the ef-

    fect is through the use of stem cells. All fat cells contain stem cells, and if fat cells extracted from the abdomen or other donor sites are transferred immediately to the face, the effect of stem cells, which proliferate and are maintained according to any cel-lular situation, cannot realize their full potential.

    Therefore, only when stem cells are separated using a state-of-the-art stem cell extractor and are then mixed with pure fat cells and injected into the face, can the graft survival rate be increased. This method can increase the graft survival rate of fat cells by up to 60 - 70%, and once engrafted, these cells will sur-vive semi-permanently, with the facial anti-aging effects lasting for more than 10 years.

    As the extraction of stem cells is a complicated process, ster-ile facilities must be well-equipped, and the staffs know-how of extracting and processing tissue is essential to carry out the safe surgical procedure customized for an individual. Thus, it is necessary to be careful when selecting a hospital.

    There also are precautions in autologous fat transfer. If an ex-cessive amount of fat is injected or the patients physical condi-tion is too sensitive, the following side effects may occur: a lump of fat may be necrotized, the facial surface may become rough, or the graft site may suffer severe swelling, a lump or a bruise.

    This is why choosing a highly trained doctor is key. The most important thing is to obtain the desired facial volume-up ef-fect by maintaining the high graft survival rate even with a small amount of fat cells. Those who elect to have this surgery need to have sufficient consultation and accurate diagnosis before the procedure begins, and then undergo autologous fat transfer safely and naturally without unreasonable expectations.

    Although autologous fat transfer may lead to the desired dramatic outcomes - such as a higher forehead, smoother fa-cial contours and improved nasolabial folds - the side effects may prevent complete satisfaction. These can often be avoid-ed when post-surgical instructions and treatments are strictly followed. After autologous fat transfer, it is advisable to get enough sleep and to eat well for the first three months as well as to avoid excessive drinking and smoking.

    For more information, please contact Coordinator Seo Mi-young at 051-630-0123/010-9345-4556.

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  • HAPS_summer 20148

    CONTENTSA Tale of Two Cities | 20Operation Beautiful | 22Places to See in Korea | 24

    FEATURES

    The Master | 34SPORT

    REGULARSEvents: The Big Five | 12The Haps: Word on the Street | 14News: In the News | 16Material World | 18Tharp On: Motorcycles | 54

    DIRECTORY/GUIDESHotel News & Directory | 44Directory | 46-52Busan Metro Map | 52Area Maps | 46-53

    FOODShinae | 40Patbingsu| 41

    TRAVELMy, My, My Barcelona | 30Busans Beaches | 32

    COMMUNITYMedical Tourism Centers Spring Up Around Korea | 36Spin, DJ, Spin | 37Haeundaes New Seaside Attraction | 37

    BUSINESS SPOTLIGHTCalifornia RePublic | 38CJ Hellovision Teams up with Google | 37

    ART & CULTUREInterview: David A. Mason | 42

    THIS PAGE; Picturesque houses at Tibidabo mount, Barcelona.

  • oull be hard pressed to find any indication of it in the fol-lowing pages, but between you, me and several thousand

    others, this issue marks the 5th Anniver-sary of Haps. Five years of four guys: my-self, Michael Schneider, Jeff Liebsch and Russell McConnell, joined by an extensive community of writers, photographers, and artists, putting something together that, from this vantage point, seems an unimaginable length of time.

    OK, now I quit.No, but seriously...Happy Birthday, Haps.This issue, as with the past 30, is full of

    great stuff. The cover story offers up five places that you must go in Korea before youre allowed to leave. In short, these are the places that you need to visit be-fore you can confidently look someone in the eye back home and say that you know Korea. Issue 31 also serves up some infor-mative articles on life here on the penin-sula. James Turnbull looks at the efforts

    of body-image activist Min-ji Kim, who is hard at work trying to stem the tide of an increasingly image-conscious world. Author Shivaji Dass piece, A Tale of Two Cities, looks at a day in the life of two of Koreas most prominent expat enclaves. Hal Swindall has put his diners pen aside this issue and takes a look at Korean Bud-dhism with David A. Mason, author of An Encyclopedia of Korean Buddhism, and Marius Stankiewicz interviews Rafal Olen-ski, Polish-born and former world interna-tional taekwondo champion.

    As usual, there is a ton of stuff about great food, events, things to do and a wealth of other information to get you where you need to go in Korea.

    On behalf of all of us at Haps who have dedicated ourselves to putting this thing together over the past five years, thank you for your continued support. Without you, none of this would have been possible.

    BARCELONATHE BEST OF Most of us living in Korea choose Asian-based destinations for our holiday travel. Why not log a little more flight time and head over to Europe?

    30

    YEDITORS LETTER

    ON THE COVER

    WHATS INSIDE

    Haps 31st issue fea-tures five places that you have to see in Korea before you can go back home and tell people that you have been to Korea.

    Cover image by Chris Cusick. Image on this page courtesy of pho-todune.

  • HAPS_summer 201410

    KELVIN BRASSBRIDGE IIKelvin is an American graphic design-er from the state of Maine. He has lived in Busan with his wife, dog and cat for three years. He has never been abducted by a UFO, so dont bring it up if you ever meet him.

    CONTRIBUTORS

    DESIGNERS: Kelvin Brassbridge II

    PHOTOGRAPHERS: Chris Cusick Scott Rotzoll

    Vincent Carvalho Jisu Lim

    Marius Stankiewicz Stinkie Pinkie

    Jason Teale Jamie Alexander

    ILLUSTRATORS: Michael Roy

    ACCOUNTS SERVICES Bak Seon-mi

    BUSAN HAPS Summer 2014 Issue 31

    BUSINESS REGISTRATION NUMBER: 00001

    FIRST PUBLICATION DATE: Sept, 2, 2009

    OFFICE ADDRESS: Pale de CZ, 2-19, Jung Dong

    1124-2, Haeundae-gu Busan, Republic

    of Korea

    SUBMISSIONS [email protected]

    ADVERTISING [email protected]

    Follow us @busanhaps Busan Haps Magazine

    PUBLISHER Ju Shin-hye

    EDITOR IN CHIEF Bobby McGill

    SALES DIRECTORMichael Schneider

    WRITERS: Chris Tharp

    James TurnbullChristy Swain

    Jeff LiebschBobby McGill

    Dr. Jaesong KooShivaji Das

    Marius StankiewiczJohn Dunphy

    Anthony VelasquezHal Swindall

    DISCLAIMER: The opinions in the magazine

    are not necessarily those of the publisher.

    Questions or comments: [email protected]

    2014 Busan Haps Magazine

    MANAGING EDITOR Jeff Liebsch

    CULTURE EDITOR Jen Sotham

    ART DIRECTOR Russell McConnell

    WEBMASTER Danny Himes

    FASHION EDITOR Christy Swain

    MUSIC EDITOR Seth Fellenz

    COPY EDITOR Amy Steele

    INTERN: Ji-woon Ko

    TRANSLATION: Junnie Ahn

    CHRISTY SWAINA fashion-loving girl, this Kiwi would like to divide her time between Paris and Mi-lan, but for now, shell settle for Busan, browsing the vintage stores of Seomyeon or the High St. in Nampo-dong.

    JAMES TURNBULLSince coming to Korea in 2000, James has become widely known for his highly regarded blog The Grand Narra-tive where he examines gender issues. He lives in Busan with his wife and two daughters, Alice and Elizabeth.

    SETH FELLENZHaps music editor Seth Fellenz has moved from Wisconsin to Busan twice. When hes not busy playing screen golf or grocery shopping, you can find him around town laughing at his own jokes, some of which are pretty funny.

    CHRIS THARPChris hails from Washington State and has lived in Busan for over six years. When not banging on a guitar or screaming into a microphone, he likes to write. If you buyhim a drink, hell tell you all about the times he met Kurt Cobain, but you prob-ably already know the story.

    AMY STEELECopy editor Amy, an avowed sucker for slow blues tunes and cheap red wine, spent the better part of the last decade working in advertising and PR. A newbie to both Busan and Haps, shes returned to her journalism roots and feels right at home.

    JEN SOTHAM Haps culture editor and food writer Jen hails from New York and has been eating her way through Busan since 2006. The first phrase she learned in Korean was chal-mo-gu-sum-ni-da.

    H Regulars

  • 2014 summer _ busanhaps.com 11

    WISH WE WERE THEREGREAT EVENTS HAPPENING ALL AROUND THE GLOBE. HERES A COUPLE WE WISH WE COULD GET TO.

    EXIT FESTIVAL NOVI SAD, SERBIA, JULY 9-13

    The wild, all-out, all-night, every night music festival takes place on the banks of the Danube at Novi Sads 17th century island fortress. The event mixes up radical politics, a beautiful setting and unparalleled musical offerings. With over 16 stages filled with top-notch musicians, a dance party each night after 2 a.m. features electronic acts performing until dawn with all-night revelers partying into the wee hours of the morning.

    STONEHENGE SUMMER SOLSTICE WILTSHIRE, ENGLAND, JUNE 18-22

    The mythological stone sculptures of Wiltshire County, England attract thousands to watch the sunrise and worship the sun during the northern hemispheres shortest night of the year. As its one of the few times of the year that visitors are actually al-lowed to touch the stones, revelers feel a spiritual connection and grounding force from the mere physical contact with these religious rocks.

    FIND US ON THE WEB HEREwww.busanhaps.com

    6

  • HAPS_summer 201412

    H Regulars

    VIENNA CHAMBER ORCHESTRA JUNE 17Founded in 1946 and based at the Vienna Konzerthaus, the Austrian-based Vienna Chamber Orchestra will host a series of concerts around the peninsula, includ-ing in Daegu on June 12 and Chang-won on the 13th, before embarking on their Busan performance on the 17th at the Busan Cultural Center. Pianist Lim Dong-hyek and violinists Richard Yong-jae ONeill and Kang Clara-Jumi join the orchestra for a night of Mozart under the artistic direction of Stefan Vladar.

    BORYEONG MUD FESTIVAL JULY 18-27Arguably the largest and most popular in-ternational festival in the country, the 17th Boryeong Mud Festival pays homage to the mixture of water and soil. Daecheon Beach in Chungcheongnam Province be-comes a brief home to mud wrestling, slid-ing and swimming in a mega mud-tub. Over the festivals 10 days, one can also spot night concerts, fireworks, a mud mar-athon, painting and mud massages.www.mudfestival.or.kr

    BUSAN INT. KIDS FILM FESTIVAL JULY 23-27Now in its 9th year, BiKi is a collection of creative domestic and foreign short and feature films. A competitive section of movies made by children are just a sam-pling of the five-day event, which also includes special exhibitions and cultural performances, concerts, seminars and a playground around the Busan Cinema Center. Under this years theme, Ready Action, the film festival is highly regard-ed internationally as one of the best in Asia. www.biki.or.kr

    Events & Culture

    THEBIGFIVE

    BUSAN SEA FESTIVALAUGUST 1-7

    The 19th Busan Sea Festival encompases a weeks worth of festivals all rolled into one around the five major beaches lo-cated in the city limits. Composed of five different event themes, the festival brings music, marine sports and local and inter-national performers to the more than 35 scheduled events that take place. Gwan-galli and Haeundae beaches are home to the majority of events, which have made the festival one of the most anticipated every summer.www.seafestival.co.kr

    PLEASE NOTE: DATES FOR EVENTS ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE.

    BUSAN CHINATOWN FESTIVAL JUNE 13-15Entering its 11th year and rescheduled after the Sewol ferry accident, the Busan Chinatown Special Zone Cultural Festival brings a taste of Asias largest country to Choryang, Dong-gu district, which is lo-cated across from Busan Station. Street performances, exhibitions, food and plen-ty of musical performances are on offer at the three-day festival, which is the biggest gathering of the Chinese community in the city each year. www.chinatown-f.com

  • 2014 summer _ busanhaps.com 13

    Out & About

    PLEASE NOTE: DATES FOR EVENTS ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE.

    NEW ZEALAND WINE FEST 2014After last years highly successful debut of the New Zealand Wine Festival in Busan, the Kiwi Chamber of Commerce decided to do it again. It was an even bigger hit this year with 300 plus in attendance. If you missed it this time around, see you there next year!

    Photos by Jason Teale

  • HAPS_summer 201414

    H Regulars

    WORD ON THE STREET

    FIRST PHASE OF THE BIFC COMPLETEDThe long-awaited opening of the Busan International Finance Center (BIFC) in Munhyeon-dong arrives on June 26, as the newest skyscraper to grace the citys landscape opens its doors to house key financial institutions, in-cluding the main branch of the Busan Bank, the Busan branch of the Bank of Korea and the Korea Technology Finance Corporation. The second phase of the project involves constructing officetels and commercial facilities, and the third phase consists of residential officetels and a business hotel, according to the city newspaper, Dynamic Busan.

    The futuristic Landmark Tower, which boasts 63 floors and is 289 meters high, reflects the citys aspirations to become a regional hub for international finance markets. When completed in 2019, the BIFC will act as a new type of multi-func-tional complex, combining financial, accommodation, retail, shopping and cultural facilities.

    The team is young compared to previous squads, but I dont think they are behind in terms of experience and talent. South Korean national football coach

    Hong Myung-bo on his teams chances at the 2014 World Cup.

    I express very strong regret that North Korea makes such provocations at a time when our people are in deep sadness after the Sewol disaster. President Park Geun-hye after North Korea fired two artillery shells over the Northern Limit Line (NLL) in late May.

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    ERH

    EAR

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    BIFF RELEASES ITS 2014 POSTER The 19th Busan International Film Festival (BIFF) selected its official poster, which is based on the original work Emotion1/4 Y.R.G.W by Korean painted sculpture artist Lee Hyuck-jin and designed by BIFFs art director, Choi Soon-dae.

    Emotion1/4 Y.R.G.W is a painted sculpture produced by combining pictures and long pieces cut from boards made of fiber on top of resin. They were assembled by entwining horizontal and vertical pieces, much like traditional Korean basket weav-ing, followed by painting on the surface. The togetherness of films, audiences and cineastes is represented by the intertwined pieces, and the bright colors reflect the celebratory nature of the Busan International Film Festival.

    This years installment of BIFF takes place from October 2 - 11.

    DID YOU KNOW?THE FIRST MCDONALDS DRIVE-THRU IN KOREA OPENED IN HAEUNDAE IN 1992.

    BETWEEN 1992 AND 1997, THE NUMBER OF CARS REGIS-TERED IN KOREA DOUBLED FROM 5 TO 10 MILLION.

    THE ORGANISATION FOR ECONOMIC CO-OPERATION AND DEVELOPMENT (OECD) HAS DECLARED SOUTH KOREA AS THE COUNTRY WITH THE HIGHEST ESTIMATED NATIONAL IQ.

    SHIN SAIM-DONG, THE WOMAN ON THE 50,000 WON BILL IS THE MOTHER OF LEE YOL-GOK (YI I), THE MAN ON THE 5,000 WON BILL.

    THE TRIGRAMS ON EACH CORNER OF THE KOREAN FLAG SYMBOLIZE THE UNIVERSAL ELEMENTS HEAVEN, EARTH, FIRE AND WATER.

  • 2014 summer _ busanhaps.com 15

    IPARKS KEEPER HEADS TO BRAZIL Busan IPark goalkeeper Lee Beum-young was one of six do-mestic football league members selected to represent Korea at the 2014 Brazil World Cup, underway June 12.The 25-year-old Lee gained national fame at the 2012 London Olympics when he was a late injury substitution in the quar-terfinals against Great Britain. He knocked the hosts out after a save on Daniel Sturridges fifth shot in the penalty shootout, sending Korea to their first ever semi-final appearance.South Korea sent their youngest and tallest squad ever this year, with an average age of 25.9 years and an average height of 184 cm. They face a tough challenge in Group H with Bel-gium, Russia and Algeria all looking to advance. Korea is the lowest seed in the group, currently ranked 55th in the world.

    South Korea World Cup FixturesJune 18 Korea vs. Russia - 7 a.m.

    June 23 Korea vs. Algeria - 4 a.m.June 27 Korea vs. Belgium - 5 a.m.

    Community & Living

    BUSANS NEW PLAZA The latest in the citys key projects to open to the public is the Song Sang-hyeon Plaza, the countrys largest, which opened June 12. Set to become one of the most picturesque parts of the city, the 34,000-square-meter urban center in the heart of the city encompasses Jeonpo-dong and Yangjeong-dong in Busanjin-gu and is nearly 50% larger than Gwanghwamun Square in Seoul. Features of the new area include a forested area, performance areas, cafes and a Sunken Plaza where local artists can display their art. The plaza is set to become one of the citys newest locations to host a myriad of events through-out the year.

  • HAPS_summer 201416

    IN THE NEWS

    S. KOREA BIDS FOR 2019 WOMENS WORLD CUP South Korea is looking to add another major sporting event to its resume, as the country has entered the race to win the rights to host the 2019 FIFA Womens World Cup along with four other countries. England, France, New Zealand and South Afri-ca, as well as South Korea, submitted their letters of intent to host the games, which are held every four years. The Korea Football Association said it has applied for the games to further promote

    womens football and to raise national interest in the sport. South Korean women are currently 18th in the world rankings.The host for the 2019 games will be decided at the first FIFA executive committee

    meeting in 2015. The 2015 Womens World Cup, to be held in Canada, is set to grow from 16 to 24 countries and from 32 to 52 matches, where Japan, who became the first Asian nation to win the Womens World Cup in 2011, look to defend their title.South Africa, which has already been awarded to host the 2016 U-20 Womens

    World Cup, may have a slight advantage in the bidding as the governing body of world football, FIFA, says that in principle, it prefers one nation to stage both events.

    NO CHEESE FOR YOU! North Korean leader Kim Jong-uns love of fromage apparently is not be-ing met in the reclusive state. So what does the Dear Leader do when he cant get good-quality cheese in his country? He sends three envoys to France to learn from the best.And thats just what happened this

    past April, when officials from North Korea visited the National Dairy In-dustry College (ENIL), based in Mami-rolle in Franche-Comt, in the hope of sending experts to the college to be trained to produce high-quality cheese.The small school, which trains about

    600 students, including international students from as far away as Morocco, Russia and Senegal, politely declined the North Korean request, citing a lack of space in the class, though many suspect other reasons for the denial.The refusal came as a huge disap-

    pointment to North Koreas supreme leader, who is said to have developed a strong penchant for Switzerlands Emmental cheese while studying in the country during his formative years.

    H Regulars

    CATCH ME IF YOO CANYoo Byung-eun, the de facto owner of the sunken Sewol ferry, is on the run, making him the most wanted man in the country. The 73-year-old ferry patriarch was charged with tax evasion and embezzlement among his alleged illegal business prac-tices, such as overloading ships, leading to the April 16 Sewol ferry tragedy, which left over 300 dead or missing.The Incheon Metropolitan Police Agency distributed wanted

    flyers to 250 police precincts across the country for Yoo and his eldest son Dae-gyun, who is a major shareholder of Chong-haejin Marine Company, the holding company of the ferry op-erator. His daughter, Seom-na, was arrested in France on May 27 and is facing extradition procedures, while his youngest son, who currently lives overseas, also faces an arrest warrant and has had his passport revoked by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs.The massive manhunt brought over 150 of the countrys most

    experienced detectives and police officers to search for the father and son, with tens of thousands of posters of the pair plastered in public places around the country. A 500-million-won reward is offered for the whereabouts of Yoo, with an ad-ditional 100 million for his son. The arresting officers also have been promised a promotion of one rank if they capture either of the elusive pair.

  • 2014 summer _ busanhaps.com 17

    REUNIFICATIONTOO COSTLY FOR SOME Though the Park Geun-hye government has been keen to bring up the on-again, off-again topic of reunification, not ev-eryone in the country is hopeful of the two Koreas reuniting anytime soon, according to a new poll. Statistics suggest that many people in South Korea are opposed to reunification, al-though primarily because of the cost.The poll, commissioned by Seoul National University, showed

    that four out of 10 South Koreans are not willing to cover the costs of reunification. A government think tank has estimated that the initial cost of reunification may be as high as US $1 tril-lion, mostly because of the lack of infrastructure in the North. Others say the number may be even higher.While reunification is official policy in both the North and

    South, South Korean presidents have often touted its politi-cal, social and ethical value to balance the considerable cost of absorbing the North, according to the BBC.The Chosun Ilbo also conducted a survey that showed only

    just over 30% of the nation thought the benefits of reunifica-tion would outweigh the costs, and more than two-thirds did not expect it to benefit individual South Koreans directly.President Park Geun-hye has advocated for reunification as

    a potential economic bonanza, though she admitted public interest in unification has declined in an interview with Bloom-berg News in January.

    Korea & World News

  • HAPS_summer 201418

    H Regulars

    MATERIAL WORLDH Regulars

    EXPENSIVE BIKES:

    BROMPTONFounded in 1976 and based in Greater London, the Brompton company makes the sturdy line of foldable bikes that you see more and more people tooling around town on. With a superb ride, the bike can be folded into a carry-on in 20 seconds. Albeit a heavy carry-on, it does make for a convenient set of wheels in suburbia. With a price tag thatll run you over 2 mil-lion won, youll probably want to keep it in your bedroom. You can check out a wide selection of Bromptons at Cafe 6ixmiles in Marine City. The generously open corner location just off the water also serves as a rest spot for large numbers of weekend riders. facebook.com/cafe6miles

    STRIDA Strida is one of the lightest, fastest folding bicycles on the market. It comes with a sturdy, yet light-weight aluminum frame, solid compo-nents and a kevlar belt, rather than a chain. A plus being that you can say goodbye to grease and grime (in case you want to bicycle to your wedding). A more likely advantage of the kevlar belt is that it never needs to be adjusted. And whatever worries you might have about the belt breaking, forget about it - the material is the same used by Harley Davidson on its slightly more torque-heavy, two-wheeled, noise pollu-tion machines. (Editors note: This is in no way meant to offend Harley riders. While the roar has run its course and seen its day, we do respect that a great many Harley riders are larger than some of our staff com-bined.) Depending on the model, Strida will run you between 600,000 to 800,000 won. www.strida.com

    LYNSKEY LITESPEED C1 The Lynskey website reads: Were located in the quiet town of Chattanooga, Tennes-see but the bikes we make are anything but that. OK, so they need a better copy-writer on the website, but if youre looking for something solid to mount, Lynskey has you covered. Peninsula-side, their bikes will run you from 5 million won up to a cool 15 million. Still reading? The Litespeed company, founded by the Lynskey family, spe-cializes in titanium and carbon-fiber frames. Lance Armstrong rode a Litespeed Blade, painted and labeled as a Trek brand bike, during the 1999 Tour de France time trials. Apparently, this is not uncommon, as pro cyclists would rather ride a Litespeed frame over that made by their sponsors. Buy online or ask your local dealer where you can pick one up. www.lynskeyperformance.com

    Whether tooling around the side streets of Korea or taking to the open road, a bike can be a friend and a faithful steed. How much youre willing to pay for that friendship is up to you, but allow us to introduce you to a few of the high-end rollers.

    JUST BECAUSE

  • 2014 summer _ busanhaps.com 19

    PLAYDATE BIKE CLUB STANDARD SINGLE SPEED BICYCLE Ride around like a real playa. Shoulders back, hands resting atop the handlebars. Its cruise time. Courtesy of our Japanese neigh-bors comes Playdate Bike Club, what they refer to as a mixture of throwback style and high-performance components - pre-senting a uniquely nostalgic, modern bicycle that looks good and rides better. And, its got the cool name to boot. This high-rider city cruiser will run you over a million won, but you will surely ride off the sticker shock after a few leisurely kilometers. facebook.com/playdatebikeclubjapan

    Gadgets & GearGadgets & Gear

    EXPENSIVE BIKES:

    DAHON D7 OBSIDIANDahon is another of the folding bikes genus, featuring some of the most popular folders on the market. Former physicist Dr. David Hon spent seven years in his Los Angeles garage perfect-ing the first Dahon bike. His founding mission was to make a greener world. Being green aint cheap, so look to plop down over a million won for the good doctor, whose highly regard-ed bicycles now occupy two-thirds of the folding bike market worldwide, having won Europes prestigious Eurobike award three times at the worlds largest international bike show. It folds up in a few simple steps and is built with the highest quality components, so you can pass it down to the grandkid someday. www.dahon.com

    BURLEY BICYCLE TRAILERA car has a trunk, so why shouldnt your bike have one? We dont advise putting your kid in the trunk, but you can safely put them in the Burley Bicycle Trailer. No kids? Then throw your tent and sleeping bag in there and head up the coast for a few days of rid-ing and camping. If you treat your gear like your child and want it to ride comfortably and safely, then youll be glad to know that the Burley comes with a padded, hammock-style seat, a lightweight aluminum frame and a five-point harness system. Were not sure how much better that is than a four-point har-ness system, but hell, you can never be too careful with the safe-ty of your sleeping bag. You can pick one up online or at a local bike shop for just under a million won. www.burley.com

    JUST BECAUSE

  • HAPS_summer 201420

    HInsideSTORY

    Ansan, the Multicultural City; Itaewon, the Western Town: what makes them so special in an otherwise largely homo- genous Korea?

    I head first to Ansan, an hours journey from Seoul by train. Most migrants reside at Wongok-Dong, The Borderless Village. Along a narrow lane, glass storefront windows are crowded with signage in English, Vietnamese, Chinese, Russian, Thai and Ben-gali. They are selling Sichuan chili, curry powder, sambal paste and phone cards - cheapest rates, maximum talk time and mon-ey transfers - lots of money transfers. The crowd is slowly mov-ing along this lane, branded Multicultural Food Street. A Chris-tian group, all dressed in orange, is distributing pamphlets. I hear Mandarin everywhere. The steam clouds rising from stacks of Chinese dumplings set the mood. Ansans Wongok-Dong is not a global village but a Chinese village.

    I meet Park Jungan from the Migrant Community Service Cen-ter. She tells me that of the 761,000 residents in Ansan, 7.6% are foreigners, as opposed to the national average of 2.2%. Migrants from 78 countries are represented here, but over 70% of them are of Chinese or Korean descent. The rest are primarily Uzbeks, Vietnamese, Indonesians, Russians, Filipinos, Nepali, Thai and Sri Lankans. Park explains, Koreans are used to a homogenous society. But we need foreigners for the three D jobs dirty, dangerous and demeaning. We help migrants assimilate by organizing sports and cultural events, provid-ing multilingual counselling services, conducting language

    classes and running a shelter for migrant women who run away from abusive husbands.

    Around the small town, elderly Chinese men are playing chess, cards or Jianzi. Many have gathered at the town square to listen to a city officials speech. I ask two Nepali men listening atten-tively, Do you understand Korean? No, they smile. We are just killing time.

    A group of 10 Bangladeshis are going to Seoul Mosque. I speak with a man named Habibur. After asking where I am from and where in Bangladesh my parents come from, he asks me what migrant workers always ask, Are you looking for a job here? I could get you in touch with someone.

    After I explain that I am not, he switches track. I have been here for eight years, he says. They wont let me stay here any-more after this term ends. Can you get me a job in your com-pany in Singapore?

    His friend Arif asks, Brother, are you a Muslim? Not a problem. We are all brothers sharing the same language. His voice turns extremely civil. Life is not too bad here. But sometimes other Korean workers shout at us. I think they say bad things.

    I bid farewell to them and head for the Seoul neighborhood of Itaewon. Big blocks of restaurants greet me with tables cov-ered in long white sheets. Shop names are all in English. Some storefronts imitate Victorian or Art Deco facades. Young Korean couples are posing every other minute for selfies. This is their local Western fix.

    Ansan: the industrial cluster. Itaewon: a center for expat entertainment. Both migrant outposts in a homogenous Korea, with their own take on the foreign workers life.

    A Tale of Two Cities: Ansan and ItaewonStory & Photos By Shivaji Das

  • 2014 summer _ busanhaps.com 21

    On the main street, men in American army uniforms are looking for bargains. Korean men from the tailor shops, which form the backdrop, are asking all, Do you want a shirt made for you?

    A Chinese tour group, guided by a yellow flag, emerges from the subway station. The tourists dutifully go through the tiny cubicle shops along the pavement, all selling the same items that infect all touristy places: socks, caps, souvenirs and witty t-shirts. A whistle blows, the flag stops and turns around; the Chinese tour-ists go back to the underground world in unison.

    Roy, an English teacher from Sacramento who has been in Korea for over 10 years, explains, Back home, you cant get by teaching English after paying all the hundred taxes. And in Cali-fornia, they keep bringing in laws to turn teachers into paupers. No wonder English teachers are an abundant species in Korea.

    He comes to Itaewon every weekend. You should come here as a single. There are great clubs in this area, and Koreans are very friendly, if you know what I mean, he winks. No problem of assimilation here then. Not at all, he laughs. During the day, you join them for treks, and during nights they join you for a bumpy ride.

    But this enchanting world is lost as one walks up the hill from Itaewon. Distinctly Arab, South Asian and Malay faces are idling against shop walls. Hijabs on mannequins, a Pakistani travel agency, a Turkish kebab dig, a Malay restaurant; I can see the minaret of Seoul Mosque. The Bangladeshis I met in Ansan are distributing pamphlets about Islam from the mosque to any oc-

    casional Korean who drops by to take photographs. Outside, an elderly Korean woman is vis-iting every shop and asking the shop owner in English, Where are you from?

    One shop owner inevitably hesitates, Korea.

    Dont say that, you understand! says the Korean woman. Say what you are - a Pakistani. Enraged, she walks away to the next store. I run for cover.

    Originally from the north-eastern province of Assam in India, writer, traveller and photographer Shivaji Das now works as a management consultant in Singapore. He is the author of Journeys with the Caterpillar: Travelling through the Islands of Flores and Sumba, Indonesia. You can follow him on Twitter @ShivajiAuthor, or visit his website at www.shivajidas.com

    The steam clouds rising from stacks of Chinese dumplings set the mood.

    Ansans Wongok-Dong is not a global village but a Chinese village.

    PREVIOUS PAGE, FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: 1. Itaewon chic 2. Itaewon Cool 3. Itaewon Style. THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: 1. Ansan Migrant Community Service Center 2. Ansan market fruit vendor 3. Bustling Ansan street market 4. Malay restaurant 5. Chinese money transfer business

  • HAPS_summer 201422

    HSocialISSUE

    Korea has a well-known reputation for perpetuating unre-alistic body ideals for women - and deservedly so. It has the highest per capita cosmetic surgery rate in the world. It is the only country where young women are getting thinner rather than more obese, according to the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD). It is one of only two countries in the OECD where employers have the right to de-mand resume photographs, which are routinely photoshopped.

    Yet, this widespread body dysphoria is by no means unique-ly Korean, and those headlines above could just as easily have been applied to the US. But instead of noting these similarities, overseas reporting tends to conform to Orientalist stereotypes of Korean women as victims, shrouding the complexity of their attitudes towards their bodies and the demands placed upon them. It also undervalues the work of Korean body-image activ-ists and organizations.

    One such activist is Ewha Womans University student Min-ji Kim, who was inspired to start her (Korean) blog, Real Beauty Doesnt Hurt, as a means of recovering from a distorted body-image-related eating disorder and to reach out to others.

    I recognized that it wasnt only me that was suffering, Min-ji explains, but when I was struggling with my disorder back in high school and college in the US, there just werent many resources out there, and I couldnt get any support because awareness of it was very, very low. Even when I went to the hospital, the doctors didnt really know about it, and I couldnt even get any help from my family, who just thought I was being weird.

    Unfortunately, awareness in Korea was even lower. This makes her blog play a crucial role for others seeking help.

    As a body-image activist, I dont have any tangible achieve-ments [yet], but I can perhaps give myself some credit for giving support to people who didnt have it before. For a lot of people, my blog provides a hopeful story. It shows them that theyre not alone, that they can overcome their eating disorders, and, cru-cially, that their disorders are not their fault. Thats my biggest accomplishment.

    It also led her to Operation Beautiful, a US-based website cam-paign, at the heart of which is the placing of post-it notes with body positive, self-affirmation messages (and links) in such plac-es as bathroom mirrors or on ads that promote a very narrow range of and/or unrealistic beauty standards. Participants then take photographs of them and upload them to the website.

    Min-ji places many of hers on Line 3 of the Seoul subway, which bombards commuters with promotions for cosmetic sur-gery clinics in Apgujeong. While simple-sounding, its a surpris-ingly effective method, now used by a number of organizations working on body-image issues.

    These messages create solidarity among people whose is-sues may have seemed daunting, because they were struggling alone. But when people share their stories and start talking about them? Then immediately they feel less lonely and em-powered by knowing that there are other people like them out there and that they do have a support system.

    Another organization Min-ji collaborates with is Korea Wom-enlink, a womens rights organization, which is currently driving a host of body-image campaigns involving university students. One example from last year is a Seoul subway ad campaign, which confronted the conformity of body-image demands on women by comparing them to a barcode. The text read:

    Ewha Womans University student Min-ji Kim has taken up the cause of body-image activist, going against the grain of unrealistic body ideals for women.

    Operation BeautifulBy James Turnbull

  • 2014 summer _ busanhaps.com 23

    Society tells me I must have the same body, the same face, as ev-eryone, but I do not want to be like that. To do so, I conform to a standard made not by myself, but by others. The way I am now is the one and only true form for me. It is just fine for me, and fine for you, to just be the way we are.

    Min-ji sees these campaigns as a definite spark, and welcomes the recent news that the Seoul Metropolitan Government is to limit the number of cosmetic sur-gery advertisements to no more than 20 percent of subway station ads and to ban them completely from areas around schools. (It is common to receive cosmetic sur-gery as a graduation gift; some clinics also target middle school-ers.) However, she believes restric-tions on online advertisements would be much more effective and that such measures do little to challenge the dynamic that drives women to make such huge sacrifices in the first place.

    Peoples freedom to choose cosmetic surgery should be re-spected, says Min-ji. Some people effectively have to do it for the sake of their jobs, their careers, or their families and shouldnt be blamed for it.

    As described by interviewees in Korean Womenlinks recent book, Are You Sorry Youre Fat?, these pressures include doctors expecting nurses to be pretty and mothers viewing cosmetic surgery as beneficial for their daughters careers. I myself am quite skinny, Min-ji adds, but I too am regularly told to diet by classmates and friends, of both sexes.

    Also, once while she was recovering in the hospital from a car accident, her doctors used the opportunity to offer her some additional cheap cosmetic surgery.

    Ultimately, headlines in the foreign media do speak to some truth, Min-ji admits, and, identifying neither as Korean or Ameri-can, is well placed to lament the big gap in mindset between

    Koreans and the expat communi-ty as well as the lack of dialogue. Likely, talking about rather than to Koreans is why all too many expats tend to stereotype Korean women as victims. Against that, Min-ji has a powerful, final take-away mes-sage to readers:

    A US-based feminist I was having a dialogue with, who had never been to Korea, basically assumed

    that women in Korea were just oppressed, and that is just not the case. You know I live in Korea, Im a woman, and I feel very empowered to be a woman. Korean women are very passion-ate, and I know so many women who are doing their best to de-velop their careers, to be good mothers, and women here thrive and flourish at both. I know that many people are still subject to discrimination and live in poverty, but theres a great deal of ac-tivism, and a lot of policies are being implemented to improve that situation.

    Things are not stagnant!

    You can check out Operation Beautiful by visiting the website at www.operationbeautiful.com

    FOR A LOT OF PEOPLE MY BLOG PROVIDES

    A HOPEFUL STORY. IT SHOWS THEM THAT

    THEYRE NOT ALONE, THAT THEY CAN

    OVERCOME THEIR EATING DISORDERS,

    AND, CRUCIALLY, THAT THEIR DISORDERS

    ARE NOT THEIR FAULT.

    LEFT: SUPPORTERS OF THE MOVEMENT WHO SENT IN THEIR PHOTOS; RIGHT: FOUNDER MIN-JI KIM WITH NOTE READING, YOUR STAGE IS THE WORLD, NOT THE SCALES

  • HAPS_summer 201424

    HCoverSTORY

    HAPS_summer 201424

  • 2014 summer _ busanhaps.com 25

    Places to See in Korea, Before Youre Allowed to LeaveWhile many of us may never leave the peninsula, most of us will, and even more of us will never visit all there is on offer. Haps has put together some must-see spots for any Korean travel itinerary. By no means a definitive list, its enough to keep you busy for a while.

    Photography by Chris Cusick, Scott Rotzoll & Vincent Carvalho

    THIS PAGE: Seoraksan National Park, Photography by Chris Cusick

    2014 summer _ busanhaps.com 25

  • A day trip to the DMZ is like noth-ing youve experienced elsewhere. Staring out across the most heavily armed border in the world, the psy-chological impact alone is impres-sive. But hey, they have a Viking ride, too! Tours start off in Seoul and include visits to a border mili-tary base, long-abandoned infil-tration tunnels built by the North and the UN negotiation complex that directly straddles the border. An interesting and sometimes ig-nored aspect of the DMZ is that the two-kilometer-wide stretch of land is one of the most pristine nature spots on the planet. If you step up to the border at the right time, you might catch sight of giant flocks of waterfowl flying in large circles into and out of South Korean terri-tory as if there was no line there at all. And theres a Viking!

    Photography by Scott Rotzoll

    The DMZ, The War Stops Here

    HAPS_summer 201426

  • 2014 summer _ busanhaps.com 27

    While calling it the Hawaii of Korea leans a bit to the side of exaggeration, if you hit Jeju during the warm months, it makes for a fine East Asian substitute - and the food is actually better than Hawaii. Famed historically for its wind, women and rocks, the island features other ma-jor attractions to travelers, too: white sandy beaches and scenic natural wonders, including waterfalls and a dormant volcano carved atop Koreas highest mountain, Halla-san. Theres an abundance of restaurants with bar-bequed seafood or meat, which is best cooked on a slab of Jejus endless supply of lava rock. The heaviest rain falls in June, so keep that in mind.

    Photography by Chris Cusick

    Jeju Island, The Jeju of Korea

  • HAPS_summer 201428

    Named as Koreas first national park under the National Park Law in 1970, Seoraksan National Park is one of the countrys most well-preserved natural wonders. On the mountainous grounds of the 164-square-kilometer plot, you might get lucky to catch sight of a black bear or a flying squirreljust two of the 1,562 animal species clas-sified in the park so far. To get there, you can take one of many buses departing from nearly any city or hop on a plane to Yangyang in Gangwon Province at the far north-ern corner of the ROK. english.knps.or.kr

    Photography by Chris Cusick

    Seoraksan Nat. Park, The Path Well-Traveled

  • An hour away from Busan by ex-press bus or by train, Gyeongju is the historical crown jewel in the Korean tourist crown. Popularly known as The Museum without Walls, the former seat of power for the Silla Dynasty (57 bce - 935 ce) is surrounded by a double range of hills and mountains, which form the perfect natural fortress for the city. Spend a day or two roam-ing hundreds of ancient historical remains, including grassy burial mounds, centuries-old temples, stone pagodas, imperial mauso-leums and museums. Gyeongjus close proximity to the sea also makes it a haven for great seafood restaurants.

    Photography by Vincent Carvalho

    Gyeongju, Oh, Silla!

    The artist enclave of Tongyeong is most well-known for being the oyster capital of Korea as well as the home base for supreme naval strategist Admiral Yi Sun Shin during the 16th century Imjin War. Just an hour bus ride away from Busan, this almost quaint port town is great for a day of walking around or hiking on one of the many is-lands just off the coast. Theres a maze of wall-painted al-leys near downtown as well as the historic Haejeong Tun-nel, which was built by the Japanese in 1932 and holds the distinction of being the first underwater tunnel in all of Asia. Its one-lane road is now a walk-through ex-hibition of historical photographs and area history. eng.tongyeong.go.kr

    Photography by Chris Cusick

    Tongyeong, of Oysters and Admirals

  • HAPS_summer 201430

    Spains second largest city and historic spread by the sea, Barcelona offers an abundant mix of architectural styles and vivid colors. From the centuries-old markets to the masterful creations of Gaud to the storied old structures dating back to the Romans, Barcelonas fun is on her streets.

    Considering that Hercules is tied through legend to the found-ing, Barcelona is a city rich in history. Wander in and out of ex-pansive markets, through gothic neighborhoods or along the beautiful beaches, though its just as easy to step into one of the many bars, restaurants or cafes and not come out for days.

    On my first morning, I wandered through La Boqueria (also

    known as Mercat de Sant Josep), which is one of Barcelonas most popular food markets. An array of color greets you as you make your way down the aisles, where thousands pass daily, sorting through the endless stalls of produce, seafood and all else. I could have stayed there my entire trip.

    Barcelona is not a small town. Comprised of six districts that house 1.6 million people, theres a lot of ground to cover. Ive picked three cool neighborhoods, near the beach of course, that are assured to keep you busy for a while.

    1. LA BARCELONETAIn addition to enjoying a fictional visit from Don Quixote, La Barceloneta is most well-known for its sandy beach. The street off the beach is always a blast. Lined with restaurants and night-clubs, it remains a lively area regardless of the season. Wheth-er I went topless on the beach shall remain in the vault. Per-sonal pick: Be sure to check out the Casa de la Barceloneta, a museum housed in a wonderfully preserved building dating back to 1761. 2. THE GOTHIC QUARTEROne of the oldest and most well-preserved neighborhoods, the Gothic Quarter offers narrow streets and small squares for

    HTravelINTERNATIONAL

    How about mixing it up a bit this summer by flying over your favorite Asian destinations and continuing on to Barcelona?

    My, My, My BarcelonaStory By Stella Wilshire

  • 2014 summer _ busanhaps.com 31

    Michael Fraiman is a freelance writer and former Haps editor. Read more of his travel stories at www.alongway-back.com, and check for his upcoming book, A Long Way Back: Stories of Trav-elling Home.

    witnessing all sorts of sights. Its home to an abundance of me-dieval architecture, some dating as far back as the Roman settle-ment of the city. A must-see is the Barcelona Cathedral (Catedral de la Santa Cruz y Santa Eulalia), which saw its cornerstone first laid in the 13th century. Interesting fact: The cathedral was built to honor Eulalia of Barcelona, a Barcelona patron saint who, ac-cording to Catholic lore, was a young virgin delegated to mar-tyrdom at the hands of the Romans. One legend recounts that she was exposed naked in the public square when a sudden, miraculous mid-spring snowfall covered her nude body to ease her shame.

    3. EL BORNSimilar to the Gothic Quarter, and only one street over, El Born was given a popular boost by the Ildefonso Falcones book Ca-thedral of the Sea, a historical novel about medieval Barcelona that spent a year atop Spains best seller list in 2008. Formerly the hip spot to take in jousting matches, it is now graced with a ton of cafes, brimming in the evenings. There is also a fes- tive night scene, where you can spend an evening jousting with the mojitos. The nearby Barcelona Zoo makes for a perfect spot to walk off that hangover the next morning. Personal pick: Keep your eyes peeled for the many shops inhabited by violin makers, glassmakers and other craftspeople. Incred-ible sights abound.

    Barcelona is served by several airlines. Haps recommends KLM at www.klm.com.

    PREVIOUS PAGE, FROM TOP: 1. Barcelona Park Guell of Gaudi Modern-ism. 2. Fruit stand in la Boqueria Market THIS PAGE, FROM TOP: 1. Barce-lona Port Vell and la Barceloneta district. 2. Barcelona Cathedral.

  • HAPS_summer 201432

    DOMESTICHTravel

    Busans BeachesBeach season, that season that exceeds all other seasons in Busan, is back.

    HAEUNDAE BEACH Over the past several months, ships have been busy just offshore dredging sand and pumping it up onto the beach to double the width of Koreas famed strip of coastline. While the summer bookend months of June and September are the best times to en-joy the beach with moderate crowds, July and August is when Haeundae explodes with upwards of 700,000 people swimming, lounging or shuffling along the board-walk in the summer heat. Nearby there are plenty of great restaurants and good back-streets leading off in all sorts of interesting directions.To get there, take subway line 2 to Haeundae Station. Its about a five-minute walk.

    SONG-DO BEACH Officially Koreas first beach (as of 1913), Song-do has re-emerged as a must-stop on local tours. Song-do, which trans-lates into Pine Island, was given its name due to the lush pine trees adorning the outskirts of the beach. Located just three kilometers from Nampo-dong, Song-do offers a romantic backdrop for couples looking for some peace and quiet, away from the hustle and bustle of the city.To get there, take bus 34 or 134 from Busan Station southward.

    ILGWANG BEACH Located in Gijang County, Ilgwang Beach is a little out of the way, but is better for a guaranteed quiet day at the beach than any others. As the water levels are not too deep, novice swimmers and children are more prone to enjoy swimming here as opposed to other beaches in the city. There are also plenty of accommodations, restaurants and camping facilities available nearby, should you choose to spend the night.To get there, take subway line 2 to Jangsan Station. At exit 9, take bus 180, and get off at Ilgwang Beach.

    IMRANG BEACH The 1.5km-long Imrang Beach is also located in Gijang County, and is famous for its fresh water and fishing. With the water level only four feet deep, many families with young children find the beach ideal for swimming, while the neighborhood has a dis-tinct character of its own. Tongdosa Temple and Jangansa Temple are located nearby for those looking to get out of the beach scene for the afternoon. Though relatively quiet, more tourists have been frequenting the area lately due to its golden sand.To get there, take bus 37, 180 or 188 from Jangsan Station.

  • 2014 summer _ busanhaps.com 33

    GWANGALLI BEACH If Haeundae feels a bit like South Beach, Miami, then Gwan-galli is Coney Island: laid back, more room to stretch out and a semi-abandoned, rusting amusement park. At the end of the Suyeong River trail, the beach makes a great destination for a morning bike ride or jog. The absence of towering hotels means there are more dining and drinking options with ocean views. If youre feeling brave, you can grab a kayak at the southwest end of the beach and dodge the wind surfers and jet skis on the open water. After sunset, the Diamond Bridge, an iconic suspen-sion bridge that spans the horizon, comes to life with an elabo-rate LED light show.To get there, take subway line 2 to Gwangan or Geumnyeonsan Station. Its about a five-minute walk.

    DADAEPO BEACH Located at the estuary of the Nakdonggang River and just eight kilometers from downtown, Dadaepo Beach is a great place to chill out and have a picnic, collect a few seashells and go for a swim in the shallow surf. Just up the river is one of the best plac-es in Korea to check out migratory birds chilling in the marshes. At just under a kilometer long, it is beautiful but little-known to foreigners because of how far away it is from the city center.To get there, take bus number 2 or 98 from Busan Station or get off the subway at Sinpyeong Station and take bus 2, 11, 96 or 98.

    SONGJEONG BEACH It may be just on the other side of Dalmaji Hill, but Songjeong feels much further away. The skyscrapers of Busan proper are blocked from view, and the crowds are much smaller. It also has the only reliable breaks, attracting surfers who chase waves and girls who chase surfers. At the end of the day, Songjeong is one of the only nearby beaches that allows camping, but with no re-strictions on fireworks or soju, dont expect a quiet nights rest.To get there, take subway line 2 and get off at Haeundae Station (exit 7), and take bus 100, 100-1, 139 or 142. Get off at Songjeong Station and walk 600 meters.

  • HAPS_summer 201434

    TALKHSports

    Though his good looks and stylish dress may fool you, 28-year-old Rafal Olenski, three-time Polish and one-time world taekwondo champion, is a force to be reckoned with. Hes got determination, a fierce fighting stance and if you ask him nicely, hell even do some acrobatic spin kicks off a buildings wall reminiscent of old Kung Fu movies. Over a beer - which he occasionally endorses when not dominating his opponents in the ring as much as the dojang - we had the chance to sit down with him to discuss his competitive ca-reer, his humble beginnings and, of course, his love for Busan.

    HOW DID YOU START IN TAEKWONDO?Ive always dreamt of wanting to be a martial artist, to train with great fighters in Asia under well-known masters. Watching Bruce Lee in Enter the Dragon and Van Damme in Bloodsport inspired me, and so after complaining to my dad that I wanted to train martial arts, he took me down the street from our house and signed me up for taekwondo. It was a random decision, actually, but I immediately took to the sport and started training inten-sively. Little by little, I began reaching the goals I set for myself. First, it was me becoming the youngest ITF black belt in Poland and then it was winning the Polish championships three times.

    WHAT WERE YOUR FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF KOREA?To be honest, Korea reminded me a bit of the US. Before coming here, I spent some time in Chicago, so when I arrived in Busan and saw the concrete sidewalks, the flashing neon lights and all the familiar company logos and American brands, I thought I was back in the US. Now, after all these years in Busan, what I see be-ing connected to the US is only the American brands and noth-ing more.

    WHAT ARE YOUR FEELINGS ABOUT BUSAN?In the beginning, I thought that I would not find myself in this city. I was even contemplating returning to Poland. But after set-tling down, meeting great people, and gaining more career op-portunities, I realized that it would be quite a nice place to live in. I love the nature here, the mountains and beaches. I often go jog-ging in Haeundae and Gwangalli Beach, my favorite places. The transportation here is efficient, and the service in shops is always exceptional. I love Korean food, especially Korean restaurants. Above all, Ive always dreamt of seeing Asia, and from Korea it is quite easy to fly to other countries, especially from Busan.

    Former World International Taekwondo Federation Champion Rafal Olenski is one badass dude. The three-time Polish taekwondo champ opens up about living his martial arts dream in Busan.

    The MasterBy Marius Stankiewicz

  • 2014 summer _ busanhaps.com 35

    LOTTE GIANTS SCHEDULE

    BUSAN IPARK SCHEDULE

    JULY 5 - JEONBUK 7:30 P.M.JULY 13 - INCHEON 7:30 P.M.JULY 23 - SUWON 7:30 P.M.

    JULY 26 - JEJU 7:30 P.M.

    JUNE 10, 11, 12 - LGJUNE 13, 14, 15 - KIAJUNE 27, 28, 29 - NC

    JULY 4, 5, 6 - SKJULY 15, 16 - NEXEN

    JULY 22, 23, 24 - SAMSUNGJULY 29, 30, 31 - DOOSAN

    WHAT ARE YOUR FUTURE PLANS?At the moment Im recovering from an injury. In a spar a few months back I tore my meniscus, so Im just taking it slow after my knee surgery; it was my third knee surgery of the same injury, so I really need to take it easy. Im jogging a bit now but no hard-core training or fighting. When I get back into it, I hope to achieve the same success in kickboxing as I did in taekwondo. Ive always said to myself that I want to fight until the age of 35, but who knows if Ill be able to hold up. Right now, Im also studying in Busan, so Im hoping my studies could open a few doors in terms of career options. Im also trying to look at a few business op-portunities involving export/import between Poland and Korea.

    ANY ADVICE FOR ALL THE YOUTH OUT THERE TRAINING IN SPORTS OR MARTIAL ARTS?The more sweat during training means less blood during bouts. Also, taekwondo, Muay Thai and kickboxing are all about mind, body and soul - not just fighting and combat. Be ambitious, stay disciplined and dont make excuses for yourself to miss training. Try to follow your dreams despite the many difficulties youre bound to encounter while reaching them. Also, dont be a fanatic about your sport or martial art. Dont be obsessed with chasing your belt color or trophies, and keep your head cool at all times. What you do in the dojang stays in the dojang, mean-ing dont mix work with your private life. Id like to thank all my friends here in Busan for all their warm hospitality over the years and my lovely girlfriend, Nam-kyung.

    Marius Stankiewicz is a freelance journalist and an instructor at Busan University of Foreign Studies.

    You can find his photography and publications at www.mariuszstankiewicz.com

  • HAPS_summer 201436

    SEOUL MEDICAL TOURIST INFORMATION CENTERLocation: 10, Da-dong, Jung-gu, SeoulLanguages: English, Japanese, Chinese and RussianTelephone: +82-2-752-2102~3, 1330E-mail: [email protected]: Trial use/introduction of simple medical instruments, visitor assistance, guidebooks, information.Korean Traditional Medicine: Acupuncture, moxibus-tion, cupping treatment (from Wednesday through Friday, 10:00~17:00)Operation Hours: 09:00~18:00 (Hotline 1330 is 24/7)

    If youre looking for some advice on how to make the most of Koreas extensive medical tourism offerings, here is a list of Koreas four information centers located in Seoul, Busan, Daegu and Incheon.

    Medical Tourism Centers Spring Up Around Korea

    DAEGU MEDICAL TOURIST INFORMATION CENTERLocation: 6F Daegu City Center, 11-1 Munhwa-dong, Jung-guLanguages: English, Japanese, ChineseTelephone: +82-70-7006-1161~4, 1330E-mail: [email protected]: Visitor assistance, information, guide brochures, healthcare network supportOperation Hours: 09:00~18:00 (Hotline 1330 is 24/7)

    INCHEON MEDICAL TOURIST INFORMATION CENTERLocation: 1F Arrivals Gate 5 at Incheon International AirportLanguages: English, Japanese, Chinese and Russian at the concierge.Telephone: +82-32-743-2172, 1330E-mail: [email protected]: Visitor assistance, information, guide brochures, healthcare network supportOperation Hours: 09:00~18:00 (Hotline 1330 is 24/7)

    BUSAN MEDICAL TOURIST INFORMATION CENTERLocation: Bujeon 1 Dong 486-27, Jin-gu, BusanLanguages: English, Japanese, ChineseTelephone: +82-51-818-1320, 1330E-mail: [email protected]: Visitor assistance, information, guide brochures, healthcare network supportOperation Hours: 10:00~19:00 (Hotline 1330 is 24/7)

    Community Corner

  • 2014 summer_ busanhaps.com 37

    Spin, DJ, SpinBusan eFM is accepting entrants for the 2nd annual BeFM Ex-pat DJ Contest. The contest, which is co-sponsored by Etihad Airways and Haps, will end with a final battle on the beach dur-ing the Busan Sea Festival in early August. After the winner is decided, several of Koreas top DJs (also acting as judges) will continue spinning on the sand into the evening. Upload your audition video from June 23 until July 7. The contest king wins a million won and a roundtrip ticket to Abu Dhabi. For more info, visit www.befm.or.kr or give them a call at 051-663-0034.

    Haeundaes New Seaside Attraction

    Spreading the Word

    The Bay 101, an architecturally hip new spot on Dongbaek Island just across from the Wes-tin Chosun Hotel, opened its doors in May. The spacious two-story building has an LED illumi-nated wall in front while the back opens up to a sizable patio seating area with great views of the Marine City skyline.

    The 3,567-square-meter, 35-billion-won com-plex houses a cafe and several food offerings,

    including outstanding fish n chips on the first floor. Up on the second floor is Daedo, Seouls famed barbeque restaurant with enough room to seat up to 500 diners.

    A very cool feature of the new facility is that you can book watercraft. The selection ranges from three 128-passenger yachts to three jet boats, with a planned 30 jet skis by July.

  • HAPS_summer 201438

    Whether at the original Sharkys at Haeundae Beach, the Gwangalli Beach location or the most recent addition of Sharkys III on the Haeundae Strip, Sharkys is the only place in Busan that is quintessentially Californian. Its friendly vibe is reminiscent of laid-back SoCal beach bars where you find a strange brew of patrons, some spiritedly blowing off steam, some relaxing with a kind ale or cocktail over board games by the beach. While the assorted assembly there may change (which keeps the craic in-teresting), what is consistent for sure about Sharkys is it serves the best pub grub in Busan.

    Sharkys distinction is the way it epitomizes California cuisine by using as much local produce as possible and procuring only the best ingredients, such as Australian beef and lamb, Ameri-can bacon and all imported cheese. Also, by putting that little extra time and care into not only its taste but also its presenta-tion, they consistently deliver the finest culinary creations. For example, all the sauces and dressings are housemade, chicken breasts are marinated for at least 24 hours for a great caesar salad, hoagie rolls are baked to order, hand-rolled taquitos use only chicken leg and thigh meat for a more flavorful filling, and their original, freshly made meatballs of ground pork and beef, original herb mix and touch of cream cheese make them ex-pertly seasoned and textured. Regarding that latter point, the meatball hoagie is the best sandwich Ive had in Busan.

    Furthermore, Sharkys menu is replete with plenty of classics that authentically represent their provenance yet are never staid. The border specialties offer some serious Mexican food

    like the San Diego taquito plate, the wet burrito and the Cali-fornia burrito. In addition, for a more inventive, modern twist, theres the tuna avocado burger, the Cajun salmon filet and the cilantro lamb chops and sausage entree. And this spring, theyre rolling out a classic Western brunch, done, of course, with smartly chosen ingredients, housemade and cooked to order.

    Even as Sharkys brand and reputation has grown, it still ad-heres to its core principles of providing a chill ambience and amicable and competent service in great locations, all serving top-shelf food and drink. Salud!

    Sharkys is an advertiser with Haps Magazine.

    Business Spotlight

    What started out as one location just off the beach in Haeundae has grown into three of the most popular spots for food and drink in Busan.

    CALIFORNIA REPUBLICBy Anthony Velasquez

  • 2014 summer_ busanhaps.com 39

    Sponsored Stories

    Thanks to a partnership between Google and CJ Hellovision streaming media service TVing, you can now stream tens of thousands of videos, movies and TV shows through Chromecast.

    CJ HELLOVISION TEAMS UP WITH GOOGLE FOR CHROMECAST IN KOREA

    This past May, CJ Hellovision, Koreas largest cable compa-ny, along with their streaming service TVing, launched a part-nership with Google to make Korea the first country in Asia to offer Chromecast and its multi-device streaming technology.

    The 49,900-won device, which is available from places such as Hi-Mart and GMarket, makes good use of Koreas high-speed In-ternet connection, allowing TVing users, which already count over 6.5 million in Ko-rea, to now enjoy a wider se-lection of offerings.

    This is a great chance for TVing to be on more screens, allowing for the company to expand, according to senior project manager Kim Jong-won. As TVing is the best OTT ser-vice company in Korea, we will lead this industry by developing the latest technology.

    Compatible with all major operating systems and mobile de-vices, the 2.83-inch Chromecast dongle that plugs into your TV is already highly popular in the American market where the simple configuration allows apps like Netflix, YouTube and Plex to stream video from any mobile device to the TV. It also allows

    users to open a Chrome browser tab remotely and view it on the big screen.

    Chromecast is a streaming device that plugs into your televi-sion via an HDMI port. There is no need to have a smart TV, just an HDMI port and youre good to go. Once inserted, Chrome-cast offers a wireless gateway to video, music, photos and apps

    that turn your television into an Internet hub for popular apps like TVing.

    Simply browse the content youre interested in on your mobile devicesuch as a smartphone or a tabletthen tell it to play on your TV. Chro-mecast automatically switch-

    es your TV to the correct input while allowing you to adjust the volume by simply using your mobile devices built-in vol-ume controls. Once playing on your TV, you can multi-task with your phone as you normally would. Since it works as a mirroring device, Chromecast streaming from your mobile device to the TV has almost no effect on battery usage.

    Once installed, the service allows viewers to enjoy HD-quali-ty streaming at 1280x720, and new technology developed by

    CJ Hellovision makes flipping through the wide range of channels much faster.

    Mickey Kim, Head of Chromecast & TV Partner-ships, Google Asia Pacific, sees this partnership as a perfect fit for Korea and its cord-cutting trend.

    Koreans are some of the most savvy consumers of content over the Internet in the world and the smartphone is already a much larger part of their media consumption than elsewhere, said Kim. Over 60% of YouTube views in Korea come from mobile devices, compared to the 40% average for the world. All these mobile content lovers will now be able to bridge the gap between their smart-phone and the biggest screen in the house.

    KOREANS ARE SOME OF THE MOST SAVVY

    CONSUMERS OF CONTENT OVER THE INTERNET IN

    THE WORLD AND THE SMARTPHONE IS ALREADY

    A MUCH LARGER PART OF THEIR MEDIA

    CONSUMPTION THAN ELSEWHERE.

    You can visit CJ Hellovision on the web at www.cjhello.comCJ Hellovision is an advertising partner with Haps Magazine.

  • HAPS_summer 201440

    Dining & Food

    Stepping inside the timeworn, sparse-ly furnished Burmese restaurant down a small, nondescript alley, worry could very easily creep in. Will I like what I order? Will I be able to order anything? Thankfully, the kind woman, following her initial surprise of seeing a couple of Americans enter the restaurant, knows enough English to help out. What would you like? Prawn, pork or beef? Soon, she lays out two plates of simple fare, bowls of comforting, fishy broth and a bottle of Hite.Hite? As it turns out, we are not in Myan-

    mar, we are in an area called Shinae, an international crossroads of food and cul-ture just outside of Busan, in Gimhae.Located in Seosang-dong - about a

    35-minute light rail trip from Sasang - the restaurants in Shinae (which means downtown in Korean) serve up an al-most overwhelming variety of ethnic din-ing options from over a dozen different countries. Walking the streets there, you will come across cuisine from Cambo-dia, Morocco, India and Indonesia, to name a few. In wide-open avenues, down narrow

    alleys, Korea and other Asian nations mingle cheek by jowl in this vibrant area of open-air markets, phone shops, clothing stores, karaoke rooms, and a ton of restaurants. Experiences can vary as widely as there

    are represented nations. One moment, you might pass a pair of men speak-ing Russian. The next, Thai. Walking up the narrow stairs to Saigon Binh Dan, a speaker pipes sound from the restau-rant. This could be the music of Vietnam or a YouTube video of a poorly dubbed

    western action film. Flip through the menu, and, if you have learned enough Korean, order a 7,000-won bowl of spicy bun riev hai san (Vietnams version of Ko-reas seafood noodle soup).Other restaurants are considerably less

    threatening to the considerably less ad-venturous. At the recently opened Dur-ga, co-owner Madhu Mahal noted in per-fect English (menus also are in English) how not only is there a demand for Indian and Nepalese foods and goods (which can be purchased adjacent to the dining area) from natives of that region now liv-ing in Korea, but also Koreans are finally discovering these delights. Mahal said his business is happy to help, and Shinae was the obvious choice for its expansion.After dinner you can explore the Asian

    marts or the outdoor markets, where one can purchase anything from blan-kets and bags of kimchi to fresh fish and bushels of cilantro. Most communication can be conducted in Korean, even if the seller isnt Korean themselves.

    Getting there: By bus: several Busan buses go to Gimhae, including the 1004 and 123, which run from Busan Station and Nampo-dong to Shinae. By subway: Green line to Sasang (227), to Busan-Gimhae Light Rail, to stop #17 (Royal Tomb of King Suro). Brown line to Dae-jeo (317), transfer to light rail, to stop #17. Exit the station on the left. Continue straight for half a mile.

    For more from John Dunphy, visit jpdunphy.blogspot.com.

    Those looking for a more international dining atmosphere during their time in Korea need look no further than Shinae in nearby Gimhae. There youll find a great mix of cultures and food served up from people from around the world living and working there.

    SHINAE:AN INTERNATIONAL FOODCROSSROADS IN KOREABy John Dunphy Photos by Jamie Alexander

  • 2014 summer_ busanhaps.com 41

    Home Cooking

    Are you a big fan of icy desserts in summer but maybe not too keen on the red bean paste? Never fear - this summer there are plenty of refreshing alternatives to satisfy your sweet tooth!

    THREE OF THE BEST:

    BINGSUBy Christy Swain

    - SOL BING DESSERT CAFESPopping up all over Busan, this franchise uses traditional and seasonal ingredients, and their ice is made with milk and finely shaved to resemble snowflakes. All bingsu comes with extra condensed milk on the side. Red bean is available on the side, too.THE BEST: Strawberry ( = ddalgi) bingsu, with sliced straw-berries and strawberry sauce, 9,500 won RUNNERS UP: Cheese bingsu, with chunks of New York cheese-cake and cheesecake ice cream, 8,000 won. Mango cheese bing-su, with chunks of mango and cheesecake and mango syrup (coming soon for summer)Multiple locations around Busan (Seomyeon, Nampo, PNU, Hwamyeong, Millak and more). Look for the distinctive hanja emblazoned pottery bowl logo.

    Cafe Bing Bing BingUsing organic and simple, fresh ingredients, these bingsus are lower in sugar and calories. They have seasonal bingsu (differing between stores), depending on whats fresh and healthy: well-being bingsu. Order your red bean on the side if youre missing it.THE BEST: Lemon bingsu (June - July) - lemonade meets bing-su! 7,700 wonRUNNERS UP: Milk bingsu - available all year. Tangerine bingsu - available only in the fall. All 7,700 wonThree locations: Nampo dong, Haeundae Marine City and Jeonpo Caf Street in Seomyeon. Look for the cute penguin logo.

    A Twosome PlaceAs far as the big franchise coffee shops go, A Twosome Place has the best range and combinations, and their sandwiches and cakes are some of the best in town, too. THE BEST: Tiramisu bingsu, with coffee and slices of tiramisu cake, 10,500 won. RUNNERS UP: Yogurt berry bingsu, with frozen yogurt and mixed berries, 9,800 won. Green grape mojito, with green grapes, lime and mint (non-alcoholic boo!), 9,800 wonMultiple locations around Busan

  • HAPS_summer 201442

    American David A. Mason has lived in Korea for over 30 years. Much of that time has been dedi-cated to the study of Korean Buddhism and the exploration of the countrys sacred sites. Mason first became in-terested in Buddhism while in high school as both an alternative and a supplement to the Protestant worldview of his upbring-ing. He had always liked hiking amid the mountain scenery and found it to be the perfect combination of spiritual and physical exertion when he came to Korea as an English teacher.

    Over the decades, Mason has watched Korean Buddhism globalize, a development he intends to aid with his encyclope-dia, An Encyclopedia of Korean Buddhism, which was published last year by Seoul publisher Unjusa.

    Mason now works as a professor of Korean Cultural Tourism at Namseoul University in Cheonan.

    Your encyclopedia is over 600 pages long and contains thou-sands of definitions of Buddhist concepts, as well as biogra-phies of major monks and histories of major temples. What were your sources for all this information?

    A lot of the information came from previous compilations of such material in Korean by the scholars of Dongguk Universi-ty and the Jogye Order, which some had been translated into rough English. There was also a collection of academic essays on specific topics in English by scholars previously working for Dongguk on other projects. I had already written and edited a collection of 30 essays on Koreas top Buddhist treasures that was published in the Korea Times and published as a book dis-tributed at the 2010 G20 summit in Seoul. All this material that I had to start with, perhaps 1,000 pages in crude form, had to be completely rewritten and heavily edited to make it consistent in style and sufficiently brief for the encyclopedia format.

    What was the most difficult part about compiling the ency-clopedia? What part did you enjoy the most?

    Just the very long hours of going over minute details of so many entries, struggling to present the best quality and most extensive knowledge in a very concise manner - sometimes that got really tedious and seemed a lonely effort. Maybe the best aspects were that I learned so much more than I already knew by doing this, and I got to refresh all my great experiences of visiting all the major temples over the past three decades, going over the photos and reliving the memories. Experiencing the grand monasteries and finding the remote hermitages up on the slopes of Koreas most beautiful and sacred mountains has always been my favorite activity while living here, and so go-ing over the extensive related materials again and considering what perspectives to use in presenting them to the world was very fulfilling.

    What do you think is the most important Buddhist concept for foreigners to understand?

    Perhaps enlightenment itself - how it is not mystical or oth-erworldly, as some people might think, but a very real-world perspective of insight and wisdom, quite pragmatic and ac-curate. Also that in general, Buddhism is less of a superstitious religion than people think and doesnt really take the worship of deities and the notions of heavens, hells, reincarnations and transcendent gods or spirits very seriously. Foreigners often dont understand that the very serious focus on concentrated meditation practice and attainment of wisdom by philosophi-cal study is the main focus of the serious Buddhist practitioners, especially in this nation where meditative Buddhism (Chan or Zen, which we call Seon) has been the predominant stream for 1,000 years, and that the more religious aspects are only sub-sidiary.

    People

    AN INTERVIEW WITH

    DAVID A. MASONBy Hal SwindallAs co-author of An Encyclopedia of Korean Buddhism, Professor David Mason knows just about all there is to know about Buddhism here on the peninsula. Hal Swindall recently sat down for a talk with the Michigan native about his master work and the world of Korean Buddhism.

    For more, visit Professor Masons website: www.san-shin.org.

    Photo by Kim Myung-sub, courtesy of David Mason.

  • 2014 summer_ busanhaps.com 43

    Art & Culture

  • HAPS_summer 201444

    Hotel Directory & News

    HOTEL EVENTS AND NEWSWhether you are looking for a comfortable place to lay your head, somewhere to enjoy a good meal or throw back a few cocktails, heres whats happening at some of our favorite local hotels.

    Novotel Hotel1405-16 Jung-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busanph. 051-746-8481 web. www.novotel.ambatel.com

    Indulge yourself with a taste of Italy at the lobby-level Ter-race Cafe restaurant, which serves up mouthwatering pas-ta dishes from various regions around the peninsula.

    Hotel Nongshim23, Geumganggongwon-ro 20beon-gil, Dongnae-gu, Busan ph. 051-550-2100 web. www.hotelnongshim.com

    Four amazing premium barbecue dishes, including ribs and roast chicken, are on offer at the hotels first-floor German tra-ditional brewery, Hurshimchung Brau, through the end of June.

    Kunoh Seacloud Hotel287 Haeundaehaebyun-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan ph. 051-933-4300 web. www.seacloudhotel.kr

    Enjoy your complimentary breakfast buffet at VIPS restau-rant while staying in one of the 177 luxuriously furnished guest rooms on Haeundae Beach.

    Park Hyatt Busan51, Marine City 1-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan ph. 051-990-1234 web. busan.park.hyatt.com

    Carefully catered for afternoon tea enthusiasts, enjoy the Af-ternoon Tea Set daily from 2 p.m. to 6 p.m. with homemade scones or pastries made by veteran chefs at the 30th-floor Lounge restaurant.

    Paradise Hotel 1408-5 Jung-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan ph. 051-742-2121 web. www.paradisehotel.co.kr

    Try a delectable grilled steak and oth-er scrumptious creations at the newly opened premium restaurant Nyx while dining with stunning views of the beach.

  • 2014 summer_ busanhaps.com 45

    HAEUNDAETHE WESTIN CHOSUNtel: 82-51-749-7000 web: www.echosunhotel.com Do it right and crash in the same room George W. Bush did.

    PARADISE HOTEL tel: 82-51-742 2121 web: www.paradisehotel.co.kr On the water, with a casino, excellent spa and a pool.

    SEACLOUD HOTEL tel: 82-51-933-1000 web: www.seacloudhotel.com Luxury stay with great restaurants. Short walk to the beach.

    CENTUM HOTEL tel: 82-51-720-9000 web: www.centumhotel.co.kr Near Shinsegae and BEXCO. Good subway access.

    SUNSET HOTEL tel: 82-51-730-9900 web: www.sunsethotel.co.kr Seventy-two rooms with, according to the site, individual design concepts.

    NOVOTEL AMBASSADOR tel: 82-51-743-1234 web: novotel.ambatel.com On the beach. Great ocean view, Murpii Nightclub.

    GRAND HOTEL tel: 82-51-740-0610 web: www.grandhotel.co.kr One of the cheaper spots on the strip, but still at the beach.

    KUNOH SEACLOUD HOTEL tel: 82-51-933-4300 web: www.seacloudhotel.kr Luxury stay with great restaurants. Short walk to the beach.

    HANWHA RESORT tel: 82-1588-2299 web: www.hanwharesort.co.kr Beautiful views of Oryukdo, the bridge and close to the beach.

    PARK HYATT BUSAN tel: 82-51-990-1234 web: busan.park.hyatt.com Five star quality hotel with stunning views and service.

    SEOMYEONLOTTE HOTEL tel: 82-51-810-1000 web: www.lottehotelbusan.com Lotte runs a tight ship and it shows in the generous customer service here.

    TOYOKO INN tel: 82-51-442-1045 web: www.toyoko-inn.com Across from D City, comfortable, clean and affordable.

    CROWN HOTEL tel: 82-51-635-1241 web: www.fnetravel.com/english/pusan-hotels/crown.html Mid-range hotel decorated in Korean style, good for travellers.

    GWANGALLIHOMERS HOTEL tel: 82-51-750-8000 web: www.homershotel.com Right on Gwangalli Beach amidst the myriad of cafes, bars and restaurants.

    AQUA PALACE tel: 82-51-756-0202 web: www.aquapalace.co.kr Beautiful view of the Diamond Bridge, right in the middle of the beach.

    JUNG-GUCOMMODORE HOTEL tel: 82-51-461-9703 web: www.commodore.co.kr Beautifully designed traditional hotel. Close proximity to Busan Station.

    BUSAN TOURIST HOTEL tel: 82-51-241-4301 web: www.pusanhotel.co.kr Conveniently located next to the train station. Good for a cheap nights rest.

    TOYOKO INN tel: 82-51-442-1045 web: www.toyoko-inn.com Affordably priced hotel, clean and 10 minutes away from the train station.

    PHOENIX HOTEL tel: 82-51-245-8061 web: www.hotelphoenix.net Highly trained staff, close to Nampo-dong. Popular with Japanese tourists.

    ELYSEE HOTEL tel: 82-51-241-4008 web: www.elyseemotel.com Affordable hotel with good amenities. Close to Nampo-dong.

    BUSAN STATIONGUKJE HOTEL tel: 82-51-642-1330 web: www.hotelkukje.com About 3 km away from the train station, close to Citizens Hall.

    TOYOKO INN tel: 82-51-442-1045 web: www.toyoko-inn.com

    The second location, this one is a minute away from the train station.

    OTHER AREASPARAGON HOTEL [Sasang-gu] tel: 82-51-328-2001 web: www.hotelparagon.com Business comfort, with close proximity to Gimhae International Airport.

    BUSAN CENTRAL HOTEL [Yeonsan-dong] tel: 82-51- 866-6225web: www.centralhotel.co.kr Adjacent to Yeonsan rotary, located 10 minutes away from City Hall.

    HOTEL NONGSHIM [Oncheonjeong] tel: 82-51-550-2100 web: www.hotelnongshim.com Great area around the hotel. Head north to PNU for original Busan nightlife.

    BUDGETBUSAN YOUTH HOSTEL ARPINA [Haeundae] tel: 82-51-731-9800 web: www.arpina.co.kr Opened in 2004, a cheap place to stay for the night. Culture center inside.

    GOODSTAY THE PLANET GUESTHOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 010-2780-6350 web: www.earthlinghome.com Women-only dormitory across from Hae-undae Beach in the Crystal Beach Office Tel.

    INDY HOUSE [Kyungsung Uni] tel: 82-70-8615-6442 Super cheap, dorm-style room right in the heart of Kyungsung.

    MARUB GUEST HOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 010-6322-3194 web: www.marubee.com Well-placed near restaurants, com-mercial area in Haeundae.

    POBI GUEST HOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 051-746-7990 web: www.guesthousekoreabusan.com Renovated guest houses three minutes from Haeundae Beach.

    SUM GUEST HOUSE tel: 070-8837-0700 web: www.sumhostel.com Renovated in 2011, they guarantee guests a pleasant stay whether in Busan for business or pleasure.

    HELLO GUEST HOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 051-746-8590 web: www.facebook.com/helloguest-househello Friendly, clean and cozy atmosphere. Outdoor patio for your enjoyment.

    HI KOREA HOSTEL tel: 070-4409-3132web: www.hikoreahostel.comemail: [email protected] home away from home, Hi Korea Hostel offers you an affordable and com-fortable accommodation just a stones throw away from Haeundae Beach.

    Accomodation Guide

    HOTEL DIRECTORYLooking for a place to stay when visiting Busan? Find it with the Haps hotel directory, your local English guide to accomodation in the city.

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    GWANGALLIBEACHED CAFE AND SPORTS BAR [Kiwi Sports Bar] open: 6pm - late tel: 051-924-9662 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/beached-cafe-sports-bar This Kiwi-run sports bar has gained a loyal expat following for its spectacular bridge view and its wide array of Kiwi beer, the only place in the city to boast such a claim. Rugby is the sport of choice on the TV for the punters.

    BELLA CITTA [Italian] tel: 051-711-0010 web: www.busanhaps.com/food/bella-citta-italian Italian restaurant with an incredible interior, top notch menu and indoor garden seating.BURGER AND PASTA [International] open: 11am - 2am tel: 051-751-6631 web: www.busanhaps.com/food/burger-and-pasta-gwangan The second of the Burger and Pasta shops around the city, this interna-tional eatery offers a great view of the bridge while you enjoy your day on the sand. Burgers, pasta and brunch are on the menu in the stylishly decorated restaurant in the middle of the main drag of Gwangalli Beach.

    FOUR SEASONS [Raw Fish Korean]English speaking owner, 2nd fl. Fish Market.FUZZY NAVEL-