italy's valpolicella wine route_ top 10 guide _ travel _ guardian.co

7/30/2019 Italy's Valpolicella Wine Route_ Top 10 Guide _ Travel _ Guardian.co

1/11

Italy's Valpolicella v iney ar ds, just outside Verona. Photogr aph: John Bru nton

The vineyards of the Valpolicella region begin just outside the city of Verona, and stretch

in two directions from the romantic home of Romeo and Juliet: west towards Lake

Garda, at the historic heart of this very traditional wine, and to the east, where younger,

more modern winemakers are making their mark. The region produces only red wines,

and although its reputation suffered in the past as the kind of cheap vino you'd order in a

pizzeria, today it is producing some of Italy's finest. Most winemakers are open for

tastings, and many are opening B&Bs too. The hearty cuisine of the Veneto region goes

Sign into the Guardian using your Facebook account

Italy's Valpolicella wine route: top 10guideVerona's vineyards, once renowned for churning out basic pizzeria

plonk, are now producing some of the country's finest reds. From

tastings over home-cooked pasta to stays in an 'agriturismo', here

are our key picks for a tasty tour of the region

John Brunton

guardian.co.uk, Thursday 4 April 2013 09.00 BST
https://id.guardian.co.uk/facebook/signin?upsell=1&returnUrl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.guardian.co.uk%2Ftravel%2F2013%2Fapr%2F04%2Fitaly-valpolicella-verona-wine-routehttp://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/veronahttp://www.guardian.co.uk/http://www.guardian.co.uk/profile/johnbruntonhttps://id.guardian.co.uk/facebook/signin?upsell=1&returnUrl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.guardian.co.uk%2Ftravel%2F2013%2Fapr%2F04%2Fitaly-valpolicella-verona-wine-routehttp://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/italyhttp://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/winehttp://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/veronahttp://www.guardian.co.uk/


2/11

perfectly with either a light valpolicella classico or a potent bottle of amarone, and there

are plenty of rustic osterie and family-run agriturismito choose from. Verona is also

currently preparing for one of the world's most important annual wine expos, Vini Italy

(7-10 April), where more than 4,000 producers will be trying to impress visitors

through tastings, workshops and competitions.

WINEMAKERS TO VISIT

Le Bignele

Le Bignele and its

surrounding vines

The Aldrighetti family have been tending their vines in the hills high above the village of

Marano since 1818 and this is the perfect place to begin understanding valpolicella. The

key grape for creating the wine's character is the intense corvina, only grown in this

region, which is combined with smaller quantities of other local varieties, such as

molinara, rondinella and corvinone. The result is a wine that caters for every taste and

budget. This is a small, nine-hectare vineyard, more rustic than sophisticated, but its

vintages are exceptional value for money. The 2008 valpolicella classico is young, fresh,

easy to drink and priced at 5; an elegant 2003 ripasso, whose grape pomace has been

macerated to add body, offers excellent quality for 7-10, while a 2007 amarone costs

16, half of what you will pay in many wineries. Amarone is a unique wine the grapes

are firstly dried for three to four months (thepassito process) before fermentation

begins, and then aged mainly in oak for a minimum of three years. It ranks as one of the

greatest Italian red wines, though the high alcohol content it can rise to a heady 17%

can take a bit of getting used to. Every tasting here ends with recioto, a luscious sweet

dessert wine that is the perfect pairing for sticky chocolate cake.

Via Bignele 4, Frazione Valgatara, Marano di Valpolicella, +39 045 7755061,

lebignele.it
http://www.lebignele.it/http://www.vinitaly.com/EN


3/11

Tezza

A tasting session gets

underway at Tezza. Photograph: John Brunton

The Tezza family's 25-hectare estate is just outside the historic heart of Valpolicella in

the sheltered microclimate of the Valpantena valley. Their cantina is an intriguing mix of

modern and traditional, with ancient cement cisterns alongside gleaming steel vats and

giant oak casks. Some of the vines are planted in the classicpergola method, where the

grapes hang high, protected from both sun and humidity, while the rest have been

converted to the much lower French guyotsystem, which is tantamount to heresy for

old-fashioned winemakers. The three Tezza brothers began their winery in 1965, andnow it is run by their three sons, Flavio, Vanio and Federico. Vanio says: "We are against

the present trend of a dolce valpolicella and amarone, which many winemakers seem to

think the market wants, and we prefer to produce wines to our own principles, with

plenty of tannin to age well, and drier." Don't miss their intense 2009 Valpolicella

Superiore Ripasso at 9, and the 2003 amarone, at 30, is worth splashing out on.

Stradella Maioli, Valpantena, +39 045 550267, tezzawines.it

Massimago
http://www.tezzawines.it/


4/11

Massimago's

winemaker Camilla Rossi Chauvenet took over when she was 20 years old. Photograph:

John Brunton

It takes more than a satnav to find this rambling estate, surrounded by thick forest. A

visit here is like a breath of fresh air, as the young viticoltore, Camilla Rossi Chauvenet,

who took over in 2003 when she was 20, is determined to break out of the mould of

traditional Valpolicella wines and offer something modern and innovative. She

concentrates on a limited range no ripasso or recioto and even the amarone is fresh,

not overpowering, and there are surprising experiments, including ros and sparkling

varieties. "This is not an old-fashioned winery: we're not trying to copy the wines of our

nonno [grandfather]," says Camilla. Customers can create their own personalised label,

and Massimago commissions a piece of classical music for each wine, with the idea that

you listen to the music (downloadable from their website) as you drink. The on-site wine

relais, a fabulously luxurious four-room B&B, is not a steal at 125 a night, but comes

with a tempting pool overlooking the vineyard, plus spa, hammam and sauna.

Via Giare 21, Mezzane di Sotto, +39 045 8880143, massimago.com

Valentina Cubi
http://www.massimago.com/


5/11

Rolling out the barrels

at Valentina Cubi. Photograph: John Brunton

Valentina Cubi is another of the innovative female winemakers who symbolise the new

generation in Valpolicella, but on arriving for a tasting at her state-of-the-art winery, be

prepared to meet a dynamic viticoltore who looks more like everyone's favourite auntie.

Her eight-hectare v ineyard is certified organic still a rarity in Italy and she is

beginning to use biodynamic principles, producing Sin Cero, an excellent experimental

"natural" valpolicella, which contains no sulphites at all. Valentina's first wines only came

on the market in 2005, when she retired from teaching in a local school ("If only I were

30 years younger," she says), yet she has already gained critical acclaim for her

uncomplicated, direct wines, reflecting her philosophy that "real valpolicella doesn't have

to have pretensions, and should be light, easy to drink, even accompanied just by a plate

of salami". Prices begin competitively at 7, and this is one of the few places where you

can buy older vintages of amarone, all at the same price, whereas most winemakers hike

up the price for each extra year. It's open to the public, but call ahead first.

Localit Casterna 60, +39 045 7701806, valentinacubi.it

OSTERIE AND ENOTECHE

Osteria Numero Uno
http://www.valentinacubi.it/


6/11

Numero Uno, an

osteria that's full of personality. Photograph: John Brunton

This is one of those old-fashioned osterie that everyone dreams of discovering. Delicious

aromas waft out of the kitchen as you walk in. The wooden bar is packed with

winemakers having a drink, either dressed in work overalls or making a good impression

on potential customers over lunch. You can try a 2 glass of the house wine, a rustic

valpolicella classico from a local village, which the owner buys in demijohns rather than

by the bottle, or a refined amarone for 5, made by either Allegrini or Bertani, two of

Valpolicella's finest producers, whose wineries are both nearby. The food is traditional

Veronese cuisine simple, hearty portions, inexpensive and totally delicious beef

cheeks braised in amarone with creamy polenta, pumpkin gnocchi smothered in smoked

ricotta and minced pork, and the famouspastissada de caval, a rich, slow-cooked stew

of horsemeat, which is almost becoming fashionable now after the tainted-beef scandal.

Via Garibaldi Giuseppe, Sant'Ambrogio di Valpolicella, +39 045 7701375,

osterianumero1.com

Antica Osteria Le Piere

Le Piere offers over
http://www.osterianumero1.com/


7/11

250 wines, all available by the glass. Photograph: John Brunton

The main street of the winemaking village of Mizzole is dominated by the severe stone

mansion that since the 1700s has housed Osteria Le Piere. The owner, Maurizio Poerio,

is a self-trained chef and totally passionate about wine. While the menu sticks faithfully

to local dishes, he introduces seasonal specialities too asparagus, pumpkin, wild game.

The wine list stretches to an impressive 250 bottles and Mario vows, "I'll open any one

of them to serve by the glass, and if the bottle isn't finished, we'll just serve it later at the

bar". Start off with the affettatiof smoky cured ham, salami and lardo (pretty much

100% pork fat and irresistible as long as you ignore cholesterol and calories). There are

half a dozen different pastas, but also tasty homemade soups, such as chestnut and

porcini mushrooms, then daily specials, such as maialino con miele, tender suckling pig

roasted in honey. The three courses cost 15, and as you leave the cosy dining hall you'll

see Maurizio has finished in the kitchen and is holding court, brandishing a bottle of

valpolicella ripasso, with a bunch of grizzled regulars.

Via Nicolini 43, Mizzole, +39 045 8841030

VINEYARD AGRITURISMI

Agriturismo San Mattia

San Mattia a

working farm offering accommodation, tastings and slow food. Photograph: John

Brunton

High above the city of Verona, with stunning views, San Mattia is like no other

agriturismo in the Valpolicella region. It is not just a vineyard, but a working farm with

chickens, ducks and horses, olive groves, vegetables and fruit trees. The enthusiastic 26-

year-old owner, Giovanni Ederle, took over his family's vast greenhouse and radically

transformed it into a 14-room B&B, with an open-plan dining room, lounge and games

area, and quiet salon for tasting his wines. Whenever possible, everything is prepared

here, including the freshly laid eggs at breakfast, and the creative chef proposes a 25,


8/11

five-course menu showcasing his slow-cooked, vacuum-sealed cuisine, which even

includes vegetarian dishes. But Giovanni's great passion is valpolicella, which started

with a first vintage in 2008 of what he admits was a "garage wine" and is now overseen

by talented young oenologist Silvia Baratella. The wines are fresh and uncomplicated,

starting at 8.50 a bottle, up to his showcase 2009 amarone at 40.

Via Santa Giuliana 2, Verona, +39 045 913797, agriturismosanmattia.it, doubles

from 85, B&B

Relais Antica Corte Al Molino

Relais Antica Corte Al

Molino, a rustic farmhouse with six guest rooms. Photograph: John Brunton

Despite its rather grand name, this six-room agriturismo is actually a rustic farmhouse,

surrounded by vineyards and olive groves. The rooms are comfortable, but it is worth

paying 100 a night for their much more spacious apartments, which come with a fully

equipped kitchen. Guests also have use of a shady gazebo looking out over the

Valpolicella hills, which is perfect for picnics or tasting the Mazzi brothers' wines. But the

agriturismo is only part of what the two owners, Stefano and Antonio, offer guests. Ten

minutes' walk away is their cantina and family trattoria, open by reservation fromThursday to Sunday, and housed in a rambling mansion complete with a 16th-century

watermill. The food is delicious, with an enormous four-course meal priced at 26,

including a traditional risotto all'amarone, cooked in this intense red, while for 45 you

can taste a different wine from the brothers' production with each course. Try their

luscious sweet recioto, dark as squid ink, and you'll surely end up buying a bottle.

Sanperetto di Negar, +39 045 7502072, robertomazzi.it, doubles from 85, B&B

REGIONAL SPECIALITIES

Corrado Benedetti
http://www.robertomazzi.it/http://agriturismosanmattia.it/


9/11

Wheels of cheese at

Corrado Benedetti. Photograph: John Brunton

Corrado Benedetti's delicatessen is a one-stop emporium for every regional product

imaginable the highest qualitysalumi, prosciuttiandformaggi, but also pickled

vegetables, fruitymostarda (an Italian condiment), and locally grown rice and lentils.

Corrado passionately tracks down the best cheese, sausage makers and farmers in the

region, and his talent is as a creative affineur take his coppa ham, marinated in a

valpolicella ripasso wine, and smokypancetta wrapped in fragrant mountain herbs. The

place is not easy to find, at the end of a road that zigzags past vineyards, high up into

thick forests towards the border between the Veneto and Trentino regions. The shop is

half showroom, half bar/tasting room, where for 12 you are served a tempting selection

of his best products along with a glass of valpolicella. Corrado also runs Bosco Allegro, a

great picnic initiative from April to October, selling marinated spare ribs, ready for

grilling on the public barbecues behind the deli on the edge of the woods.

Via Croce dello Schioppo, Sant'Anna d'Alfredo, +39 045 7545186, corradobenedetti.it

Frantoio Salvagno

Olive oil straight from
http://www.corradobenedetti.it/http://www.boscoallegro.it/


10/11

What 's this?More from the Guardian

An tonio Carlu ccio's Piedm ont: a region rich in food and artisan chocolate 29 Mar 201 3

Mick and Mairead Philpott conv icted of killing six

children in twisted plot th at w ent wr ong 02 Apr

2013

The 50 best-dressed ov er-50s in pictu res 29 Mar

2013

Zac Efron an d Van essa Hu dgens: who is now m ore

sleazy ? 01 A pr 201 3

An gela Hartn ett's Em ilia-Rom agn a: classic dishes,

and a festiv al of porcini 2 9 Mar 2 01 3

Readers' tra v el photography com petition: March

water 02 Apr 201 3

What's this?More from around the

webHow to "Get" Wine (Wine Spectat or)

1 0 Of Your Most Burn ing Food Questions An swered

By Expert s. Us! (Food Republic)

A Double Barreled Ry e (Robb Report You r Globa l

Luxury Resource)

Best Buy Shopping Tips for Expats Abr oad (HSBC

Expat Explorer )

The Philippines: Asias Next Big Th ing ? (The

Financialist)

Tra v el: Beha v ior, Locat ion Tells Me Where You\'re

Going (eXelate)

the surrounding groves at Frantoio Salvagno. Photograph: John Brunton

The Frantoio Salvagno is just 10km outside Verona, at the foot of vine-clad hills, but it is

olive oil they sell here and not wine. Olives are as a much a part of the Valpolicella

culture as grapes, but although every winemaker has groves, few actually make their

own oil, preferring to come to professionals such as the Salvagno family, whose mill has

been pressing olives since 1923. Walk into thefrantoio (olive mill) and the original 90-

year-old machinery still stands at the entrance. It 's not just for show, as it is still used by

local cultivators who have only a few olive trees and so book an hour's slot to make their

own oil. Out the back, though, is futuristic modern machinery, which produces 250,000

litres a year. Giovanni Salvagno, the third generation to run the business, still supervises

everything, ably assisted by his daughters, Francesca and Cristina, and their frisky

labrador, aptly named Oliva.

Contrada Gazzego 1, Nesente Valpantena, +39 045 526046, oliosalvagno.it

Essentials

For more information, see consorziovalpolicella.it andvalpolicellaweb.it. Verona airport

is served byeasyJet, Monarch and British Airways. Car hire was provided by

carrentals.co.uk and costs approx 123 for one week in Verona.

Ads by GoogleBritish Expat in Italy?

Avoid Losing 55% of Your UK Pension Download a Free Expat Pension Guidewww.forthcapital.com

British Expat In Italy?

100k+ Pension? Over 23,000 Expats Have Downloaded Our Free Guides!
http://googleads.g.doubleclick.net/aclk?sa=l&ai=CylZCHGBdUffQKsT2-gbhg4HQBuHhyqgC8dDy1VKZwY3SKBACIIW76A8oA1D28rG8-f____8BYP2Ks4S0E6ABu9DC6APIAQGpAi7yaCs6R7k-qAMBqgScAU_QRJE24uB2aO--2GuVKnn76BUDXZ60tso6xFuWkj5HHnOZqBnK5zG-9vaiH3eNXYQnwOtNrUKwTYJKGsDmyi7hVEJNOQ_jyZP3UrnMc5Z00BMoLpsLVDRu2l3ucphSYFjUeq9op0seZd6Qe3hJs3xUJkmW4d9I7g8rs1ZyUF0JRPV0bTF74IPJ6lR_izKcwhUN7pJiy2Q24Gs32YAHra-9Fw&num=2&sig=AOD64_25MwORNxe9WMQowsl_6CbbhelZTg&client=ca-guardian_js&adurl=http://www.qropschoices.com/free-guide/%3Futm_source%3Dgoogle%26utm_medium%3Dtext%26utm_term%3Dguardian%26utm_content%3Dmar13ad2%26utm_name%3Ditaly%26bc_keys%3Dqrops%23innerhttp://googleads.g.doubleclick.net/aclk?sa=l&ai=CqWaEHGBdUffQKsT2-gbhg4HQBs2os5sDrdDrr1HViNLKEhABIIW76A8oA1Dh94-kAmD9irOEtBOgAbuN390DyAEBqQIu8mgrOke5PqgDAaoEnAFP0FTwKeLjdmjvvthrlSp5--gVA12etLbKOsRblpI-Rx5zmagZyucxvvb2oh93jV2EJ8DrTa1CsE2CShrA5sou4VRCTTkP48mT91K5zHOWdNATKC6bC1Q0btpd7nKYUmBY1HqvaKdLHmXekHt4SbN8VCZJluHfSO4PK_8ZOmRdCUT1dG0xe-CDyepUf4synMIVDe6SYstkNsp2H-yAB63yoCI&num=1&sig=AOD64_2YAFvAIoOVLH2FobH3QpUIm0AyVQ&client=ca-guardian_js&adurl=http://forthcapital.com/understanding-qrops/%3Fcty%3DIT%26cmp%3DPL%26plc%3DGuardianhttp://googleads.g.doubleclick.net/aclk?sa=l&ai=CqWaEHGBdUffQKsT2-gbhg4HQBs2os5sDrdDrr1HViNLKEhABIIW76A8oA1Dh94-kAmD9irOEtBOgAbuN390DyAEBqQIu8mgrOke5PqgDAaoEnAFP0FTwKeLjdmjvvthrlSp5--gVA12etLbKOsRblpI-Rx5zmagZyucxvvb2oh93jV2EJ8DrTa1CsE2CShrA5sou4VRCTTkP48mT91K5zHOWdNATKC6bC1Q0btpd7nKYUmBY1HqvaKdLHmXekHt4SbN8VCZJluHfSO4PK_8ZOmRdCUT1dG0xe-CDyepUf4synMIVDe6SYstkNsp2H-yAB63yoCI&num=1&sig=AOD64_2YAFvAIoOVLH2FobH3QpUIm0AyVQ&client=ca-guardian_js&adurl=http://forthcapital.com/understanding-qrops/%3Fcty%3DIT%26cmp%3DPL%26plc%3DGuardianhttp://www.google.com/url?ct=abg&q=https://www.google.com/adsense/support/bin/request.py%3Fcontact%3Dabg_afc%26url%3Dhttp://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2013/apr/04/italy-valpolicella-verona-wine-route%26gl%3DIT%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dca-guardian_js%26hideleadgen%3D1%26ai0%3DCqWaEHGBdUffQKsT2-gbhg4HQBs2os5sDrdDrr1HViNLKEhABIIW76A8oA1Dh94-kAmD9irOEtBOgAbuN390DyAEBqQIu8mgrOke5PqgDAaoEnAFP0FTwKeLjdmjvvthrlSp5--gVA12etLbKOsRblpI-Rx5zmagZyucxvvb2oh93jV2EJ8DrTa1CsE2CShrA5sou4VRCTTkP48mT91K5zHOWdNATKC6bC1Q0btpd7nKYUmBY1HqvaKdLHmXekHt4SbN8VCZJluHfSO4PK_8ZOmRdCUT1dG0xe-CDyepUf4synMIVDe6SYstkNsp2H-yAB63yoCI%26ai1%3DCylZCHGBdUffQKsT2-gbhg4HQBuHhyqgC8dDy1VKZwY3SKBACIIW76A8oA1D28rG8-f____8BYP2Ks4S0E6ABu9DC6APIAQGpAi7yaCs6R7k-qAMBqgScAU_QRJE24uB2aO--2GuVKnn76BUDXZ60tso6xFuWkj5HHnOZqBnK5zG-9vaiH3eNXYQnwOtNrUKwTYJKGsDmyi7hVEJNOQ_jyZP3UrnMc5Z00BMoLpsLVDRu2l3ucphSYFjUeq9op0seZd6Qe3hJs3xUJkmW4d9I7g8rs1ZyUF0JRPV0bTF74IPJ6lR_izKcwhUN7pJiy2Q24Gs32YAHra-9Fw%26ai2%3DCoPrEHGBdUffQKsT2-gbhg4HQBuW93PwCvcyXhizAjbcBEAMghbvoDygDUJT9qU1g_YqzhLQToAH788j6A8gBAakCQVE1Rh92tT6oAwGqBJMBT9BEkTbi4XZo777Ya5UqefvoFQNdnrS2yjrEW5aSPkcec5moGcrnMb729qIfd41dhCfA602tQrBNgkoawObKLuFUQk05D-PJk_dSucxzlnTQEygumwtUNG7aXe5ymFJgWNR6r2inSx5l3pB7eEmzfFQmSZbh90lt7MERLZirtkku3duGp-wKdYkCVzhn0Q5JcunogAfti7cF&usg=AFQjCNFT3at66BCc1jV_E87BghOMzbA-iAhttp://www.carrentals.co.uk/http://www.britishairways.com/travel/globalgateway.jsp/global/public/en_http://www.monarch.co.uk/http://www.easyjet.com/enhttp://www.valpolicellaweb.it/http://www.eng.consorziovalpolicella.it/http://www.oliosalvagno.it/http://exelate.com/news/travel-behavior-location-tells-me-where-youre-going/http://www.thefinancialist.com/the-philippines-asias-next-big-thing/http://expatexplorer.hsbc.com/hintsandtips/list/4316http://robbreport.com/Wine-Spirits-Cigars/A-Double-Barreled-Ryehttp://www.foodrepublic.com/2013/02/14/10-your-most-burning-food-questions-answered-experhttp://www.winespectator.com/webfeature/show/id/48221http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2013/apr/04/italy-valpolicella-verona-wine-route#http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/gallery/2013/apr/02/readers-been-there-photo-competition-waterhttp://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2013/mar/29/angela-hartnett-emilia-romagna-classic-disheshttp://www.guardian.co.uk/film/shortcuts/2013/apr/01/zac-efron-vanessa-hudgens-spring-breakershttp://www.guardian.co.uk/fashion/gallery/2013/mar/29/50-best-dressed-over-50shttp://www.guardian.co.uk/uk/2013/apr/02/derby-house-fire-evil-philpottshttp://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2013/mar/29/antonio-carluccio-piedmont-regional-cookinghttp://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2013/apr/04/italy-valpolicella-verona-wine-route#


11/11

Your.QROPSchoices.com/HMRCapproved

Villa Pigalle

Ristorante, Piscina, Discoteca Vedi le Foto sul Sito!

www.hotelpigalle.it

Readers tips

Verona:Malcesine, Lake Garda

Wake up early and ride the Mount Baldo cableway up 1 .6km to hike among breathtaking

scenery of the snow-capped pre-Alpine region, the Po Plains and the

Posted by ellie64 26 Mar 2013Verona: Ristorante/pizzeria San Matteo Church

Join Verona's workers for lunch in San Matteo Church. Tucked away off a side street,

this self service restaurant serves a good range of salads, pasta

Posted by dowlens 12 Aug 2012Verona:Verona

What better than Verona, the city of ill-fated lovers Romeo and Juliet? Arrive in the

early morning sunshine via the sleeper train from Paris then breakfast

Posted by Moominmama33 5 Feb 2012Verona: Open-air opera in Verona

You don't even need to be a fan of opera to appreciate the thrill and romance of watching

an opera performed in an open-air arena on a warm summer's night

Posted by MisterLister 26 Jan 2011

Show all 27 readers' tips | Send us a tip

2 01 3 G ua rdian News and Media Lim ited or its affi liated com panies. All righ ts reserv ed.
http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/places/italy/verona/tipshttp://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/places/italy/verona/tipshttp://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/29479http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33703http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/35583http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/37193http://googleads.g.doubleclick.net/aclk?sa=l&ai=CoPrEHGBdUffQKsT2-gbhg4HQBuW93PwCvcyXhizAjbcBEAMghbvoDygDUJT9qU1g_YqzhLQToAH788j6A8gBAakCQVE1Rh92tT6oAwGqBJMBT9BEkTbi4XZo777Ya5UqefvoFQNdnrS2yjrEW5aSPkcec5moGcrnMb729qIfd41dhCfA602tQrBNgkoawObKLuFUQk05D-PJk_dSucxzlnTQEygumwtUNG7aXe5ymFJgWNR6r2inSx5l3pB7eEmzfFQmSZbh90lt7MERLZirtkku3duGp-wKdYkCVzhn0Q5JcunogAfti7cF&num=3&sig=AOD64_2L6gbF2kaVNQSmsirxJJ5rdi_CFg&client=ca-guardian_js&adurl=http://www.hotelpigalle.ithttp://googleads.g.doubleclick.net/aclk?sa=l&ai=CoPrEHGBdUffQKsT2-gbhg4HQBuW93PwCvcyXhizAjbcBEAMghbvoDygDUJT9qU1g_YqzhLQToAH788j6A8gBAakCQVE1Rh92tT6oAwGqBJMBT9BEkTbi4XZo777Ya5UqefvoFQNdnrS2yjrEW5aSPkcec5moGcrnMb729qIfd41dhCfA602tQrBNgkoawObKLuFUQk05D-PJk_dSucxzlnTQEygumwtUNG7aXe5ymFJgWNR6r2inSx5l3pB7eEmzfFQmSZbh90lt7MERLZirtkku3duGp-wKdYkCVzhn0Q5JcunogAfti7cF&num=3&sig=AOD64_2L6gbF2kaVNQSmsirxJJ5rdi_CFg&client=ca-guardian_js&adurl=http://www.hotelpigalle.ithttp://googleads.g.doubleclick.net/aclk?sa=l&ai=CylZCHGBdUffQKsT2-gbhg4HQBuHhyqgC8dDy1VKZwY3SKBACIIW76A8oA1D28rG8-f____8BYP2Ks4S0E6ABu9DC6APIAQGpAi7yaCs6R7k-qAMBqgScAU_QRJE24uB2aO--2GuVKnn76BUDXZ60tso6xFuWkj5HHnOZqBnK5zG-9vaiH3eNXYQnwOtNrUKwTYJKGsDmyi7hVEJNOQ_jyZP3UrnMc5Z00BMoLpsLVDRu2l3ucphSYFjUeq9op0seZd6Qe3hJs3xUJkmW4d9I7g8rs1ZyUF0JRPV0bTF74IPJ6lR_izKcwhUN7pJiy2Q24Gs32YAHra-9Fw&num=2&sig=AOD64_25MwORNxe9WMQowsl_6CbbhelZTg&client=ca-guardian_js&adurl=http://www.qropschoices.com/free-guide/%3Futm_source%3Dgoogle%26utm_medium%3Dtext%26utm_term%3Dguardian%26utm_content%3Dmar13ad2%26utm_name%3Ditaly%26bc_keys%3Dqrops%23inner

italy's valpolicella wine route_ top 10 guide _ travel _ guardian.co

Documents