Jacquard Fabric on Circular Jacquard Fabric on Circular Knitting machineKnitting machine

Part 2: Non-conventional Single Part 2: Non-conventional Single Jersey Jacquard FabricsJersey Jacquard Fabrics

Jimmy LamJimmy Lam

Institute of Textiles & ClothingInstitute of Textiles & Clothing

Learning ObjectivesLearning Objectives More Jacquard FabricsMore Jacquard Fabrics Drop stitch jacquardDrop stitch jacquard Jacquard FishnetJacquard Fishnet Jacquard InlayJacquard Inlay Jacquard PurlJacquard Purl Jacquard TerryJacquard Terry

More Jacquard FabricMore Jacquard Fabric So far, our discussion is on conventional jacquard

fabric based on knit, tuck and miss method. However, we can create a lot of jacquard fabrics

based on different colour, different material, different machine gauge and yarn count.

All those methods require special attachment on the machine (says, feeding two yarns together, or making a hole on the fabric), we call this as non-conventional jacquard method.

Drop Stitch JacquardDrop Stitch Jacquard A kind of jacquard lace or eyelet fabric on A kind of jacquard lace or eyelet fabric on

single jersey machinesingle jersey machine The formation of holes or eyelets is by pressing The formation of holes or eyelets is by pressing

off the selected needles and allows the loops to off the selected needles and allows the loops to drop for a predetermined number of courses.drop for a predetermined number of courses.

Drop Stitch FabricDrop Stitch Fabric

Extra large loop is formedby pressing off these needles

Drop StitchDrop StitchKnitting SequenceKnitting Sequence

A tightly knitted plain course is used to stop A tightly knitted plain course is used to stop ladderingladdering

Slack courses for drop stitchesSlack courses for drop stitches A feeder with selection mechanism to select needles A feeder with selection mechanism to select needles

to clearing height, and feed no yarn to these to clearing height, and feed no yarn to these needles. The result is loops will be pressed off.needles. The result is loops will be pressed off.

The next feeder is knitting plain course, a latch The next feeder is knitting plain course, a latch opener is used to open all latch on those empty opener is used to open all latch on those empty needles.needles.

Jacquard Fishnet fabricsJacquard Fishnet fabrics

Also known as float plating and is used for girls’ Also known as float plating and is used for girls’ half hose or stockinghalf hose or stocking

The structure is composed of two different yarnsThe structure is composed of two different yarns One is fine denier “nylon”, the other is thick cottonOne is fine denier “nylon”, the other is thick cotton Both yarns are fed to the needles on same feeder Both yarns are fed to the needles on same feeder

with nylon fed to all needles, cotton is fed to with nylon fed to all needles, cotton is fed to selected needles.selected needles.

Fishnet is formed by knittingtwo yarns at the same time with different thickness

Fine yarn as ground

Coarse yarn as pattern

Jacquard Fishnest FabricJacquard Fishnest Fabric

The result is nylon is knitting plain, forming the The result is nylon is knitting plain, forming the ground and the cotton is knitting knit and miss, ground and the cotton is knitting knit and miss, forming the pattern.forming the pattern.

See through/lace effect is obtained on those See through/lace effect is obtained on those needles that miss cotton yarnneedles that miss cotton yarn

A special sinker top machine is neededA special sinker top machine is needed

Jacquard inlay and puckeretteJacquard inlay and puckerette

For jacquard inlay fabrics, it is the technical back of For jacquard inlay fabrics, it is the technical back of the fabric is used as the effective side, showing the the fabric is used as the effective side, showing the pattern by float of thick or fancy yarnpattern by float of thick or fancy yarn

Puckerette is a fine gauge plain knit fabric with the Puckerette is a fine gauge plain knit fabric with the insertion of elastic yarn at the back in pre-determined insertion of elastic yarn at the back in pre-determined interval. The fabric when relaxed, shrinked interval. The fabric when relaxed, shrinked tremendously on the width and the fabric surface tremendously on the width and the fabric surface becomes way and cookedbecomes way and cooked

Puckerette FabricPuckerette Fabric

Plain Knit withElastic Yarn

Eyelet fabricEyelet fabric

Special machine is needed to form a eyelet fabric

Jacquard Purl FabricJacquard Purl Fabric A special type of jacquard fabricA special type of jacquard fabric Patterns are composed of technical face loops Patterns are composed of technical face loops

and back loops on “the single knit fabric”.and back loops on “the single knit fabric”. Because two type of loops give different amount Because two type of loops give different amount

of light reflection, therefore, patterns are made of light reflection, therefore, patterns are made of different shade portions in single colour.of different shade portions in single colour.

The special machine is called “double cylinder” The special machine is called “double cylinder” machine.machine.

Jacquard Purl fabricJacquard Purl fabric

Note: Technical face and back loops are on one side

Jacquard Terry fabricJacquard Terry fabric

Colour jacquard pattern terry; andColour jacquard pattern terry; and Sculptured jacquard pattern terrySculptured jacquard pattern terry It is the extra large sinker loops on the technical back It is the extra large sinker loops on the technical back

of fabric that create the patternof fabric that create the pattern A special terry fabric machine with horizontal sinker A special terry fabric machine with horizontal sinker

wheel is used.wheel is used.

Jacquard Terry FabricJacquard Terry Fabric

Terry Loopsformed by specialSinkers

Ground yarnNormal knitting