jawa model 207 owners manual

8/18/2019 Jawa Model 207 Owners Manual

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OPERATING AND MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONSLightweight Moped Jawa — Model 207.303

4-th. Edition

Manufacturer — ZVL Povazske strojarne,

Povazska Bystrica

Exporter — Motokov — Prague — CSSR

The moped or motor bicycle is a single-track motor vehicle, easy to ride and to maintain owing to its

automatic clutch and single-speed gearbox. Despite its simplicity, we advise you to peruse this handbook before riding to become well acquainted with your machine and its maintenance. You will save yourself many troubles and your moped will serve you to your full satisfaction.

We wish you many trouble free and happy miles on your moped.

ZVL Povazske strojarne,

Povazska Bystrica

CSSR

As regards information contained in this manual, we reserve the right to effect any changes of the

design resulting from the moped development without previous notice.

CONTENTS

I. Technical specifications --------------------------- 6II. Controls and their operation ---------------------- 9

III. Riding instructions ------------------------------- 13IV. Moped maintenance and adjustments --------- 20V. Rear telescopic suspension ---------------------- 40VI. Tools ----------------------------------------------- 41

VII. Defects and their removal ---------------------- 42

VIII. Spare parts --------------------------------------- 46

1 of 12 JAWA model 207.300 owners handbook pages 1 to 3 jkw


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Fig.1 Jawa Moped Main Component Parts

1 — Tail light, 2 — Rear wing, 3 — Tyre pump, 4 — Luggage carrier, 5 —Tool kit, 6 —Suspension unit,7 — Intake air cleaner, 8 — Fuel tank, 9 — Fuel tank filler cap, 10 — Handlebars, 11 — Headlamp,12 — Frame, 13 — Front fork, 14 — Front wing, 15 — Rear wheel, 16 — Exhaust silencer, 17 — Chain,

18 — Pedals, 19 — Chain of pedals, 20 — Stand, 21 — Engine switch-off, 22 — Alternator (under cover),23 —Exhaust pipe (elbow), 24 —Engine, 25 —Sparking plug with cable sleeve, 26 ---Front wheel

. I TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS .

Engine type Air cooled two-stroke single cylinderDisplacement 49 cm³ (3 cu. in)Cylinder bore x piston stroke 39 x 41 mm (1.55 x 1.61")

Compression ratio 1 : 7.5 [1 : 9.5]

Power output 1.32 kW at 4,500 r.p.m. (0.98 BHP for USA) [1.65kW at 5,000r.p.m.]Clutch type Automatic, dry, centrifugal unitGearbox type Single-speed unit

Secondary transmission ratio 1 : 14.82Pedals transmission ratio 1 : 0.693

Engine starting Pedalling

Front suspension Telescopic forkFront suspension stroke 60 mm (2.36")Brakes Drum-type shoe brakes controlled by levers on handlebars

Brake dimensions 85 X 20 mm (3.55 X 0.79")Tyres 2 ¼ X 16"

Tyre inflation pressures — front 196 kPa (28 lb/in2) rear 245 kPa (35 lb/in2)Vehicle weight 44 kg (92.5 Ibs)

Carrying capacity 85 kg (198 Ibs)Rear suspension Swing arm without shocks, stroke 60 mm (2.36")Suspension unit Without shock absorber

Cruising speed 35 km/h (20 m.p.h.)

Max. speed 38 km/h (25 m.p.h.) [30 m.p.h.] Fuel capacity 3 litres, 0.5 litres reserve (3/4 US Gallon or 2/3 IMP Gallon)

Maximum climbing ability 10 % [14 % ]

Noise 73 decibels

Ignition Contactless, fully Thyristorized

Sparking plug PAL 14-5, 145-175 Heat Range [PAL N7 ]Headlamp bulb 6 V, 15/15 W or (US-6V/25W Sealed Beam) [6 v, 25/25W ]

Tail light bulb 6 V, 5 W (US-6 V, 10/5 W) [6v, 5/10W ]

Buzzer 6 V, type 03.9413.02 [Carburettor BING ]

[Supplement for Type 207.305 & 207.375 England] shown in italics [Moped is equipped with stop switch of front and rear brake, horn, engine on – off switch and MPH speedometer.]


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. II CONTROLS .

The following few controls of the moped are easy to operate:

a) Throttle twist grip (1, Fig. 2), by the rotation of which the clutch is engaged or disengaged

automatically while the throttle is opened or closed and thus the vehicle accelerates or decelerates.

b) Front brake lever (2, Fig. 2) and rear brake lever (3, Fig. 2) by the depressing of which the vehicle is braked and stopped.

c) De-compressor lever (4, Fig. 2), by the operation of which the engine is stopped or its starting facilitated.d) Buzzer push button (5, Fig. 2).

e) Light switch (Fig. 3), head- and taillight are supplied with current only while the engine is running.f) Fuel cock lever (Fig. 4).

g) Intake air shut-off push button (Fig. 5).

h) Pedals (Fig. 6).

i) Engine drive disengaging nut (Fig. 7).

Running-in a new machine

A proper running-in of a new moped affects its output, fuel consumption, and life. A full output of the engineand the attainment of its optimum running properties can be expected only after its correct running-in.

Therefore observe strictly the following instructions:

a) Prepare the fuel mixture by mixing 80 octane petrol with brand M2T oil at a ratio of 1 : 25.

b) Use this mixing ratio during the running-in period (i.e. for about 500 kilometres] and open the throttle byturning the twist grip not more than by half a turn (approximate road -speed of 25 km/hr.).

c) During longer trips it is recommended to lubricate the engine by an occasional acceleration (opening of thethrottle).Do not close the throttle when riding downhill but brake down the machine by applying the rear brake.

d) After stopping, don't let the engine idle and not run it unnecessarily.


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. III RIDING INSTRUCTIONS .

Before setting out for a ride check

— the function of the brakes

— the tyre inflation pressures

— the fuel level

— the function of the buzzer and lights (with the engine running).

Filling the fuel tank Use petrol mixed with oil and observe the recommended mixing ratio. See to it that this mixing ratio is alsoobserved when filling up at filling station. Use petrol of at least 80 octane. Fill the mixture into the tank using a funnel with a strainer.

To start a Cold engine

Open the fuel cock (Fig. 4), and depress the air intake shut-off push button (Fig. 5] as far as it will go (after de-pressing it, the pin jumps out but the air intake remains shut). The engine can be started in two ways.

To start cold engine in summer

a) Starting with the machine resting on the stand:

Pull up the moped on its stand, depress the air intake shut-off pushbutton, depress the de-compressor lever,rotate the twist-grip through one half of its rotation range, set the pedal forward at an angle of about 30degrees from the vertical, depress the pedal energetically, and release the de-compressor lever before the pedal reaches its bottom position (after the engine has attained a sufficient speed) If the engine does not fire,

repeat this procedure. After the engine has started running let it warm up and then rotate the twist grip as far as it will go to open the flap of the carburettor air intake shut-off. Then back-off the twist grip so that theengine runs at idling speed and is ready for pulling off. Jerk it from the stand on to the wheels, and start off

by accelerating (opening the throttle).

b) Starting by pedalling:

With the vehicle standing on wheels depress the push button of the carburettor air intake shut-off, depress thede-compressor lever, and rotate the twist grip as described in paragraph a). Use the pedals to start moving andas soon as you have attained a certain speed release the de-compressor lever. As soon as the engine firesaccelerate by opening the throttle.

If necessary, you can assist the engine by pedalling, especially when climbing a long or steep gradient.



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To start a warmed-up engine (after a short stop)

It is possible to use either the method as per a) or as per b) while omitting to depress the push button of thecarburettor air intake shut-off.

To start cold engine in winter

When the temperature drops below zero, it is necessary to modify the starting procedure as follows: Start the

engine as described in paragraph a) but depress the pedal before the actual start several times to make thesticking mechanisms move freely. To assist the starting, you may hold the de-compressor lever depressed.

Proceed with the actual starting according to paragraph a) with the difference of rotating the twist grip onlythrough three quarters of its rotation range (the air flap must not open). How many times you have to depressthe pedal depends on the dropping temperature.Starting by pedalling as described in paragraph b) is not recommended on ice covered roads for safety

reasons.

Braking and stopping

If it is necessary to apply the brakes, release the twist grip and operate the brake levers (2, 3, Fig. 2). Proceedin the same way when stopping the machine. The clutch disengages as a result of the dropping r. p. m. and

the engine idles. When riding on, the clutch operates again after opening the throttle. After having finishedthe trip, stop the engine by depressing the de-compressor lever (4, Fig. 2) and shut off the fuel supply byturning the lever of the fuel cock (Fig. 4).

Riding on the moped as on a bicycle (disconnect only with the engine stopped)

If you wish to use the moped as a bicycle (for example when running out of fuel), depress engine disengagingwheel toward the engine and rotate it clockwise (Fig. 7). The wheel stays engaged in this position and the

engine drive remains disengaged. To re-engage the engine drive turn wheel anti-clockwise.



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. IV MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS .

Moped maintenance

For cleaning the varnished and chromium plated vehicle parts used only water and detergents. After washing,wipe these parts with chamois leather.Use also only water when cleaning parts of plastics or rubber. Kerosene, petrol or various solvents have adetrimental effect on such parts.

Wash the air cleaner element (Fig. 8) occasionally in petrol.

Use a stick to clean the hole ,,A" of the exhaust silencer (Fig. 9) from carbon deposits. If the engine outputdrops markedly check whether the exhaust silencer is not clogged with carbon deposits. The exhaust tall pipecan be removed after screwing off the nut ,,B".



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The gearbox oil should be changed only after a ride while the engine and the oil are still warm. Remove thedrain screw (2, Fig. 11) from the engine bottom. After draining the oil, flush the gearbox with flushing oil.Fill in fresh gear oil through the filling hole till its level reaches the inspection hole. From time to time, check the gearbox oil level and top up as necessary.

. MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE .

After the first 800 km (500 miles) After every 1,500 to 2,000 km (930—1300 miles)

--Change gearbox oil --Remove carbon deposits from exhaust silencer

--Adjust and clean carburettor and elbow.

--Tighten cylinder head nuts

--Tighten seat nuts After every 3,000 km--Check all screws and bolts for slackening --Check gearbox oil level

--Adjust and lubricate chains --Inspect and/or clean intake silencer element

--Adjust brakes

After every 6,000 km (4,000 miles)

--Clean and inspect sparking plug

After the first 2,000 km (1,300 miles) --Change gearbox oil

--Change gearbox oil --Clean carburettor

--Clean carburettor --Clean air intake silencer element

--Clean intake silencer element --Tension and lubricate chains

--Tension and lubricate chains --Adjust brakes

--Adjust brakes --Check screws and bolts for slackening

--Check screws and bolts for slackening --Check nuts and wheel spokes for slackening--Check nuts and wheel spokes for slackening --Lubricate all vehicle lubricating points

--Lubricate bowden cables --Remove carbon deposits from exhaust silencer

and elbow

Do all other maintenance jobs Including lubrication of the vehicle as necessary.

Remove carbon deposits from the exhaust silencer and elbow.In rainy weather lubricate the chains and the free wheel and clean the brakes at

shorter intervals.



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model 207.100 model 207.300

To adjust height of seat and handlebars

The height of the seat can be adjusted to suit the rider.Adjust the inclination of the seat after loosening the nut ,”A".(Fig 12)Check proper tightening of the nut ,”A" from time to time to prevent

stripping the teeth of the bracket. The seat height is adjustable withinthe range of 120mm after loosening the screw “B”. After adjusting theseat do not forget to retighten properly the nuts and the cap screw.To adjust the height of the handlebars – model 207.100 only – loosen

the capscrew “A” (Fig 13). The handlebars can be adjusted within therange of 100mm.

The handlebars are fixed – model 207.100 - on the front fork by screwswhich from time to time must be checked.

To adjust front and rear brake

For routine adjustment of the front and rear brake, use the respectiveadjusting screws on the handlebars (Fig. 14). First loosen the knurled nut (1) and then screw up or down theadjusting screw (2) to adjust the free travel of the brake lever so that it keeps a distance of 20 to 30 mmfrom the grip when depressed. After having adjusted the correct brake lever travel retighten the nut (1).

When it is no more possible to adjust the brakes by means of the adjusting screws on handlebars, adjust thetension of the brake bowden cables on brake cams [1] (Fig. 15 and Fig. 16), and then correct the adjustmentusing the adjusting screws on the handlebars.

Having adjusted the brakes, make sure that they do not drag. Let the moped rest on its stand and rotate thewheels to check their free rotation.



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Tensioning of chains

Adjust the engine chain slack after loosening the rear wheel spindle nut (3, Fig. 16). By tightening the chaintensioner nuts (2) on both sides of the frame tension the chain so that it sags 15 mm under thumb pressure.After having adjusted the chain slack, it is necessary to check the track of the wheels (alignment of wheels)using a straight lath. Do not forget to retighten the wheel spindle nut.

The pedal chain can be adjusted by means of the tension pulley on the left-hand side of the machine (Fig. 17).

De-compressor Adjustment

The de-compressor can be adjusted after loosening the adjusting screw ,,A" (Fig. 18) of the de-compressor lever. Then tighten or slacken the bowden cable so that there is a clearance of 1 to 1.5 mm between the

bowden sleeve and the stop ,,B" (Fig. 19), and retighten the adjusting screw. The bowden cable must have thespecified free travel, an excessively tensioned cable is apt to cause burning of the de-compressor valve whilea slack cable prevents the de-compressor from functioning.



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Carburettor (Fig. 20)

In the case of a defect, it is recommended to have the carburettor repaired, adjusted, and cleaned by aspecialised service station or workshop. When cleaning the jets, use only petrol and compressed air.

The Jikov 2909 DC carburettor on your moped has the following parts and adjustments:

---- main jet (model 207.100) 58 (US 63) (model 207.300) 63

---- idling jet (all) 35

---- carburettor metering needle set in the second notch from top

---- fast-idling screw backed off from the stop by (207.100) 3/4 turn (207.300) l/4 to l/2 turn.

The throttle stop screw is used to adjust idling speed. The speed increases when screwing down the

screw and de-creases when loosening it.

Ignition

The moped is equipped with a non-contact semiconductor ignition system which does not require any

maintenance except cleaning the sparking plug. It is practically fail proof and a defect can only be the resultof unwarranted interference on the part of the owner. Ignition adjustment is also obviated since nomechanical wear can take place. Ignition advance should be adjusted only if the stator screws have become

loose or after the removal of the alternator. We recommend therefore not to interfere with the ignitionadjustment. In the case of a failure go to a specialised workshop.

When adjusting the ignition advance, rotate the rotor in the direction of the arrow “A" (Fig. 22) till the timingmarks(lines) “B" of the rotor and stator coincide. Insert dial indicator or a depth gauge into the sparking plug

hole and measure the depth. Then continue rotating the rotor in the direction of the arrow “A" till the pistonreaches its top dead centre position. The distance measured on the dial indicator from the alignment(coinciding) of the timing marks up to the top dead centre should be 1 to 1.5 mm. If this value is exceeded,loosen the screws “E" (Fig. 23) and rotate the stator in the direction of the arrow “D", if the value is lessrotate the stator in the direction of the arrow “C".

Repeat this procedure until obtaining the specified advance value of 1 to 1.5 mm. After having adjusted theignition advance, properly tighten all screws and recheck the setting.



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. V REAR TELESCOPIC SUSPENSION .

The moped has a rear suspension, the telescopes of which are of simple design without shock absorbers.Their stroke is 60 mm. They do not require any maintenance.

. VI TOOLS .

The tool kit is under the luggage rack and it contains:-Tool kit bag, completeSpanner for sparking plugCombination spanner Spanner, 13/17

Screw driver

Spanner 10

Handle 5

Tyre pump

. VII DEFECTS AND THEIR REMOVAL .

Irregular running

Engine stalls Overheated engine.

Overheated electrodes of sparking plug.- The faulty plug (not correspondingthermal value)

Excessive carbon deposits in cylinder head and exhaust port.

Excessive ignition advance.Clogged exhaust silencer.

Let engine cool down and not run at highspeed.

Replace sparking plug.

Remove cylinder head and exhaust pipe,remove carbon deposits

Adjust.Remove & clean exhaust silencer

Irregular

running

Engine misfires –

Correct spark

Water or oil in carburettor.

Insufficient fuel supply to carburettor

Clean Carburettor.

Open fully fuel cock (or reserve), fill upfuel, inspect fuel feed line, clean vent

hole in fuel tank filler cap.

Irregular running

Engine misfires – Correct spark

Leaky crankcase. Check crankcase for leakage and replacegasket if necessary.

Irregular

running

Engine misfires –

Correct spark

Lean mixture (white exhaust fumes).

Incorrect petrol/oil mixture.

Adjust carburettor, clean jets.

Mix fuel correctly and stir thoroughly.

Irregular

running

Engine misfires –

Irregular spark

Incorrect sparking plug.

Oiled sparking plug.

Replace sparking plug with a correct one.

Remove and clean it.

Engine refusesto fire or stops

Defects of fuelfeed line

Fuel tank nearly empty.Fuel cock closed or only partly opened.

Clogged fuel strainer above fuel cock.Stopped fuel line or clogged strainer incarburettor.

Stopped vent hole of fuel filler cap.

Turn fuel cock lever to reserve position.Open fuel cock.

Remove fuel cock and clean fuel strainer.Remove and clean fuel line andcarburettor, blow through jet.

Clean vent hole.



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Defects of fuelfeed line --cont.

Stopped carburettor jet.Punctured float. Needle valve does not close.

Remove and clean it.Solder or replace it.Replace damaged valve.


Faultlesscarburettor and

fuel line – Spark on cable end

Oily sparking plug.Damaged sparking plug insulation.

Short circuited sparking plug electrodesToo wide gap between sparking plugelectrodes.

Sparking plug short-circuited to vehicleframe by water and mud

Replace or clean sparking plug.Replace sparking plug.

Adjust electrode gap to about 0.7mm.Adjust gap to 0.7mm.

Clean & dry cable, cable sleeve andsparking plug.


Faultlesscarburettor andfuel line – No

spark on cableend

Burnt (punctured) cable insulation.

Damaged cable terminal.

Defective Thyristor unit or ignition coil

Wrap insulation tape around cable andreplace cable as soon as possible.Replace cable terminal.

Replace Thyristor unit or ignition coilwith a new one.

Engine cannot

be cranked or stops

Faultless sparking

plug.Engine lacks

compression

Broken piston ring.

Sticking piston ring.

Faulty packing ring under spark plug.Seized piston

Remove piston ring from piston and fit a

new one.Remove clean & refit it.

Replace packing ring.Dismantle and repair.

Engine cannot

be cranked or stops

Faultless

carburettor – Correctcompression -

Correct spark onspark plug points

Overheated engine.

Poor lubrication.

Damaged gasket between carburettor and cylinder.

Let engine cool down and keep it running

at low speed (r,p.m.)Observe correct petrol/oil mixing ratio.Stir well when filling.

Replace gasket, tighten carburettor throatthoroughly.

Loss of power Continual Excessive carbon deposits in cylinder,

cylinder head, and exhaust silencer.

Partially stopped up fuel line.Incorrect ignition advance.

Incorrectly adjusted carburettor.

Seized throttle.

Remove cylinder head, cylinder and

exhaust pipe, if necessary, and removecarbon deposits.

Remove and clean fuel line.Adjust advance.

Adjust idling speed, needle, and clean air cleaner.Free and adjust throttle

Loss of power Continual Clogged exhaust silencer.Worn cylinder bore and piston.

Engine sucks in false air (crankcasehalves or carburettor flange do not

seal).

Damaged compression ring.

Cylinder head does not seal.Brake shoes foul brake drums.

Clogged air cleaner

Clean exhaust silencer.Have cylinder re-bored, new piston and piston rings fitted, and small end bearings

inspected for wear in a specialised

workshop.Separate crankcase halves, cleanmatching surfaces, apply sealing

compound and firmly retighten crankcasehalves.

Replace gasket under carburettor flange.Replace it.

Grind it in.Adjust brakes.

Clean it.

Loss of power Occasional Restricted fuel supply (partially stoppedfuel line) or clogged strainer in fuel

cock or carburettor.Stuck throttle cable.

Overheated engine.

Lost carburettor needle retaining clip.

Clean fuel line and/or strainer.

Lubricate or replace it.

Let engine cool down and keep it runningat low speed (r.p.m.).Fit new retaining clip.

Jerky clutch ,

slipping

Dirty clutch jaws. Clean jaws, inspect clutch Gufero sealing

ring.

. VIII SPARE PARTS .

The vehicle Serial Number and year of manufacture are indicated on the identification plate affixedto the front part of the frame. The engine Serial Number is stamped on the crankcase.The Serial Number is used for the moped registration and identification.Quote this number and the year of manufacture when ordering spare parts from your dealer.

Published by After-sales Service Department, ZVL Povazské strojárne, Povazská Bystrica -- CSSR


jawa model 207 owners manual

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