jewellery focus march 2012

Watch special issue:masters and masterpieces of horology

Encouraging silver jewellery sales in the face of high metal prices, through eye-catching design

How to turn a website visitor into a customer by improving the online journey

FOCUSMarch 2012 www.jewelleryfocus.co.uk £5.95 ISSN 2046-7265

Selling 52Following on from his introduction of the ‘circle of the sale’ concept last month, Brad Huisken focuses on step one – initial contact

Experience counts 54Mathias Duda of FACT-Finder.com explains why the process of turning a website visitor into a customer is now all about the online journey

Industry data 56

Voice on the highstreet 66Jane Barker of Elizabeth Rose Jewellery, Norwich

Editor’s letter 6

Roundup 8The latest news from the industry

New appointments 14Your industry representatives

Focus on silver jewellery 38Naida Ally examines trends in silver jewellery, and looks at some of the new collections that are currently available to stock

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JewelleryFOCUS

March 2012WATCH SPECIAL

Times of change 16Richard Thomas MBHI of the British Horological Institute shares his thoughts on developments within the watch-making industry, in conversation with Louise Hoffman

Baselworld preview 18As the organisers prepare to open the doors to international trade visitors once again, we take a look at some of the highlights of Baselworld 2012

Ones to watch 20A specially extended selection of new timepieces to tempt your customers

Keith Fisher 24Dedicating his column to a watch brand that holds a very special place in his heart, Keith tracks the history and success of Storm

Designs for life 26Louise Hoffman catches up with Janek Deleskiewicz to find out a little about life as a Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre artistic director

ALSO IN THIS ISSUE

Luxury timepieces 28Lose yourself in a world of diamond-encrusted bezels and awe-inspiring complications

Positive momentum 30Sandro Reginelli, product director at Maurice Lacroix, tells Louise Hoffman about his career and inspirations, and whets our appetites for forthcoming innovations

Syreeta Tranfield 32Syreeta catches up with Jonathan Hedges of GfK and Daniel Ozel of Unique Jewelry to gain an insight into the watch market’s current status, and predictions for its future

How do they do that? 34SafeGuard's Phil Withington explains the methodical procedure involved in determining insurance replacement values for watches

Janet Fitch 44This month Janet catches up with Julia Cook, designer and proprietor of Branch on the Park, and shares a recent fashion show discovery

British Craft Trade Fair preview 46With the Queen’s Jubilee and the Olympic Games approaching, what better time than to celebrate home-grown design talent at the British Craft Trade Fair

Taking stock 50New offerings from the industry

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EdiTOr'S lETTEr6

Editor’s letterT

his month Baselworld opens its doors for its 2012 event, and once again it has proved a big draw for watch companies, all currently preparing to showcase their latest works

of art. It therefore also seemed appropriate for us to choose March as the month of our watch special issue of Jewellery Focus, recognising the design talent, scientific knowledge, commercial understanding and attention to detail demonstrated by representatives of this sector.

Groundbreaking innovations, both technological and creative, are developed almost every day in the watch industry; each one adding a fresh sales pitch for the retailer, and a new dimension to the end users’ experience. From astonishing complications, to exciting use of colour and material, to new ways of measuring and presenting the time; we are surrounded by masterpieces of horological design.

But without further ado, allow me to introduce this month’s magazine to you: inside you will find a bumper selection of new timepieces, including a special section dedicated to luxury models from such big names as Patek Philippe and Rolex; a behind-the-scenes look at the processes involved in valuing a watch for insurance replacement; my interviews with two key watch designers; and analysis of the performance of the industry, through the eyes of such experts as Richard Thomas of the British Horological Institute, Jonathan Hedges of GfK Retail and Technology UK, and Daniel Ozel of Unique Jewelry.

For those of you who are visiting or exhibiting at Baselworld, may I wish you a fruitful and inspiring trip – and don’t forget to read up on the details of the event on page 18!

EditorLouise [email protected]

Editorial AssistantNaida [email protected]

Design/Production EditorTracy [email protected]

Production AssistantLewis [email protected]

Group Advertisement ManagerKelly [email protected]

Deputy Group Advertisement ManagerJulie-Ann [email protected]

Senior Sales ExecutivesDuncan [email protected]

Michele [email protected]

Sales ExecutiveCally [email protected]

AccountsMaureen [email protected]

Customer Services01206 767 [email protected]

Contributing writers:Anthony Cody, Brad Huisken, Janet Fitch, Keith Fisher, Mathias Duda, Phil Withington, Syreeta Tranfield

In support of:

TRESOR PARISThe Hasbani Group – located in Greville Street in the heart of Hatton Garden, and already well known in the diamond trade – launched Tresor Paris early in 2011. The range quickly built up a reputation for quality, glamour and sophistication, and the jewellery is worn worldwide by a multitude of celebrities. Boasting hand-finished, sparkling spheres, made with a variety of precious and semi-precious materials, combined with fine crystals, the collection consists of bracelets, earrings, necklaces and rings and is being expanded regularly, “enabling Tresor Paris to continue to be the leader in this field.”

Information: www.tresorparis.com

This month’s cover features

Jewellery FocusISSN 2046-7265is published monthly by:

Mulberry Publications Ltd,Wellington House, Butt Road,Colchester CO3 3DATel: 01206 767 797Fax: 01206 767 532www.jewelleryfocus.co.uk

The editor and publishers do not guarantee the accuracy of statements made by contributors or advertisers, or accept responsibility for any statement that they express in this publication. The opinion of the contributors may not necessarily be the opinion of the publishers. Articles are considered for publication on the basis that they are the author’s original work. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the permission of the publishers.

JewelleryFOCUS

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Corona certified by RJCThe Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) has announced that Corona Jewellery Company Ltd, the Canadian jewellery manufacturer, has achieved certification by meeting the highest ethical, social and environmental standards established by the RJC’s Member Certification System. “RJC is delighted to congratulate Corona Jewellery Company Ltd on its certification. The successful verification assessment was conducted by Michael Armstrong from KPMG Performance Registrar, one of the independent third party auditing firms accredited to the RJC’s Member Certification System,” said Michael Rae, the RJC’s chief executive officer.

Inhorgenta Munich reviewWith around 30,000 trade visitors from 80 countries, the jewellery and watch trade show saw 1,134 exhibitors from 37 nations, and a “positive response to new products.” Around one third of the total number of trade visitors came from outside Germany. The highest increases in visitor numbers were seen in the figures for the Scandinavian countries of Finland, Norway and Sweden, and for Israel, Japan and South Africa.

Retail jewellers turn to IT investment Leading jewellery business software house Pursuit has reported surging demand from proprietors of both multiples and independents, whose aim is to reduce stocking levels and maintain tight monitoring of emerging sales trends, best sellers and slow and declining lines, “to combat the state of the economy.” Neil Stoker of Gordon Stoker & Son Jewellers commented: “In today’s economic climate, control is everything, which means having a firm grip at all times on money in and money out – and the effects of factors like changing metal prices.” Meanwhile Peter Burgess of Burgess Jewellers of Carmarthen said: “For us, in the present trading conditions, the big issues are control and information-sharing across all parts of the business.” Mike Burns, managing director of Pursuit Software, added: “It is clear that more retailers are intent on doing whatever it takes to secure and sustain competitive advantage. Until relatively recently, in the jewellery industry as a whole, information technology has not generally been high on the priority list. One of the major forces now driving openness to new IT investment is the retail power of the internet… Importantly, there is wide recognition that the web needs to be seamlessly integrated with the rest of the business, as opposed to existing as a separate, standalone entity.”

Hot Diamonds sales upHot Diamonds has reported a strong start to 2012, with January sales up 46 per cent year-on-year. The brand’s independent channel delivered a 40 per cent year-on-year improvement in sales, despite a tough economic environment. “Strong January sales for Hot Diamonds are usually the result of a strong Christmas sell-through of the brand on the high street, and so we are very pleased to see such positivity at this time of year,” explained Sanford Simpson, managing director.

ANd briEfly

Houlden Group award winner revealedWilliam Cheshire has been chosen as the Houlden Group’s Designer of Excellence, with the news announced on the catwalk at the Jewellery Show in Birmingham.

Through its sponsorship of the Jewellery Show’s Design Quarter Gems section, the Houlden Group had invited talented and

inspiring designers to exhibit their latest collections. An expert panel of judges, featuring representatives from the Group, selected the designer with the most original, innovative and eye-catching collection to win the acclaimed Designer of Excellence award.

Keith Gill, director at the Houlden Group and head judge for the competition, commented: “It’s important that we support but also reward brilliant individual designers producing cutting-edge jewellery to the highest standards. We were very impressed with William’s design skills; to say we were blown away would be an understatement.

“The overall standards this year have been beyond our expectations. William’s attention to detail is impeccable and his passion and enthusiasm really shone through. His pieces are unique but also have a wide commercial appeal which is essential for retailers.

“It was a hard decision to make as all of the designers were very special; however William definitely had the edge.”

Indeed, the judges found the competition such a close call that a Highly Commended winner was chosen for the first time. Cindy Dennis Mangan was given this accolade for her passion, desire and excellent design skills.

Repeating the success of last year’s initiative, the judging panel also selected the best pieces of jewellery from the winner and the other designers’ collections to form a travelling exhibition – Designs of Excellence – which will tour Houlden members’ stores throughout the UK and Ireland.

Abbeycrest falls into administrationInsolvency specialists at Leonard Curtis Business Solutions Group have been appointed administrators to Abbeycrest Plc and one of its subsidiary companies, Brown & Newirth Limited.

Abbeycrest was originally headquartered in Leeds but was relocated to Hatfield to join its subsidiary Brown & Newirth, a wedding and commitment band specialist, to reduce costs. Like many British manufacturers, the group fell victim to rising commodity prices and a shrinking order book, which put extreme pressure on margins.

Directors John Titley and Andrew Poxon of Leonard Curtis Business Solutions Group were appointed joint administrators on 6 February 2012. Shortly after the appointment, the administrators sold the business and assets of Brown & Newirth to Chrysus Trading Limited, a Manchester-based, privately-owned investment vehicle. The new funding line will save some 60 jobs at the wedding band specialist. The administrators of Abbeycrest Plc have also sold the shares in the manufacturing division in Thailand to Chrysus Holdco Limited, which will save some 600 jobs.

Phoenix Jewellery launches charity charmsPhoenix Jewellery has announced that it is proud to be supporting the work of Children’s Hospice South West by launching a specially designed range of children’s charms.

For every charm or bracelet sold from its CHSW range, Phoenix Jewellery – which has been designing and manufacturing souvenir charms for over 50 years – will donate £1 to the charity.

Children’s Hospice South West is the only organisation in the south west of England that provides vital hospice care to life-limited children and their families within a hospice environment.

diamond geezerAn exclusive diamond ring designed by jeweller Bobby White for the Make-A-Wish Foundation has been sold at auction for £6,000.

The UK Jeweller of the Year finalist had designed and made the ring for the charity, which gives children with life-threatening illnesses the chance to achieve one of their dreams.

The auction took place at the Valentine ‘Make-A-Wish’ Ball at the Dorchester Hotel in London on 11 February. Bobby based the diamond ring on a design taken from his

new Star Cross’d Lovers collection – the silver and black enamel Star Cross’d Wishes ring, which is now on sale with 50 per cent of the profits also going to the Foundation.

“It’s a fantastic charity,” said Bobby. “It does incredible work, granting magical wishes to children and young people in the UK diagnosed with life-threatening conditions. I am honoured that Make-A-Wish UK invited me to design these special pieces.”

Guests who also attended the event were Make-A-Wish UK CEO Neil Jones (pictured with Bobby) and Harry Potter actors James and Oliver Phelps.

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CElEbriTy ENdOrSEmENT

Emma Watson wears Annoushka JewelleryEmma Watson attended the Pre-BAFTA Party at the Savoy Hotel on 10 February, wearing Annoushka Grace earrings, and again to the launch of her new Lancôme ‘Rouge in Love’ range, which was held at Selfridges, London.

“I was really pleased to see Emma Watson in our Grace stud earrings on, as she embodies the spirit of this feminine collection, with her timeless style, poise and grace,” said Annoushka Ducas, creator of the jewellery collection.

Created in 18 carat white gold and micro-pavé diamonds, each setting in the Grace studs is delicately finished with black rhodium to give a versatile, vintage feel.

Tributes to PJ Watson ltd founderPeter Watson, founder of PJ Watson Ltd, sadly passed away on Sunday 5 February, aged 85. Not only was he loved by his family, but he was admired and greatly respected by those in the trade who knew him.

Peter had a long and happy retirement of 25 years. Following the death of Gwen, his first wife, he remarried and recently celebrated a second silver wedding anniversary with his wife Janet.

He kept in touch with the industry he loved, taking a keen interest in both of his sons as they developed their respective jewellery businesses. Vivian and his son John continue to run

PJ Watson Ltd (now in its 46th year), while Philip and his son James run Anna James Ltd (now in its 24th year). They are all grateful to him for introducing them to such a wonderful trade.

Peter Watson began his career in the jewellery trade in the 1940s, working for an Antwerp-based company, selling polished diamonds to manufacturing jewellers in the UK. His mother, Constance, was already a practising gemmologist (trained under the watchful eye of the famous Robert Webster). Peter’s reputation in Hatton Garden and his in-depth knowledge of the diamond trade led him into a partnership and the formation of the Eton Jewellery Co. As his two sons, Vivian and Philip, were soon to be finishing their education, the time was right to then establish the family firm of PJ Watson Ltd in September 1966.

His passion for rare gems distinguished his collections and earned the company much recognition. The professionalism that was his personal hallmark has inspired the current and succeeding generations to follow his example.

Vivian, Philip, John and James wish to express to their customers, suppliers and friends in the trade sincere thanks for their kind and generous support. “We all share in this sad loss of a great businessman, a gentleman, a friend, and a wonderful father and grandfather.”

Commemorative ring to mark Titanic centenaryNick Fitch, founder of British jeweller Nicholas James, has created a ladies’ half sovereign ring to mark the 100th anniversary of the launch of the fateful RMS Titanic this April.

The ring has been created in white gold with an engraved shaft, enamelled in graduated shades of blue, and features pavé-set diamonds to represent the Atlantic and the iceberg. The inside of the ring is engraved with ‘RMS Titanic 1912-2012’, and a secret sapphire has been included in homage to the Heart of the Ocean, the fictitious blue diamond that features prominently in James Cameron’s 1997 Oscar-winning film.

Nick explains: “The Titanic story has an enduring romanticism that I find truly intriguing. It is a tragic tale that is ingrained in our collective consciousness. I was immediately drawn to the 1912 half sovereign at auction because of its tangible link to the past. It presented an opportunity to create a unique piece of jewellery that incorporates a really strong narrative element. The ship was the most opulent ocean liner of its day and the ring captures that glamour and luxury.”

The ring is due to be completed this month and will retail for £15,995.

Entries open for 2012 Specsavers everywoman in retail Awardseverywoman, the independent membership network for women in business, is inviting entries for the 2012 Specsavers everywoman in Retail Awards. Now in its fifth year, the awards recognise the achievements of women in the retail sector.

By highlighting inspirational female role models who are excelling, the awards aim to demonstrate to other talented individuals the exceptional opportunities offered by a career in retail. Research released last month by the Professional Boards Forum found that the number of female directors in British boardrooms has reached its highest ever level at 14.9 per cent. The Specsavers everywoman in Retail Awards celebrate the success of the sector’s female leaders and seek to encourage a pipeline of future talent into the industry.

The awards are open for entry until 14 May 2012. The winners will be announced at a ceremony at the Savoy on 13 September 2012. For further information visit www.everywoman.com/retailawards

Sotheby’s to sell prestigious horological collectionSotheby’s London has announced that it is to host the single owner sale of the George Daniels Horological Collection on 6 November.

George Daniels (19 August 1926 to 21 October 2011) was an internationally-known horologist, and the only watchmaker ever to have received a CBE and an MBE for his services to horology. He was the inventor of the Daniels revolutionary ‘co-axial’ escapement, developed during the 1970s and designed to run unaffected by the deterioration of its lubricant.

This personal collection of clocks and watches comprises those pieces he made and retained for his own pleasure, and fine and rare examples by some of the most famous makers of the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries. Consisting of approximately 130 lots, and estimated to fetch in the region of £5 million, many of the special pieces have been unseen in public for many years.

Jonathan Hills, deputy director of Sotheby’s Clock Department, commented: “This auction represents a one-time opportunity for collectors to acquire the clocks George Daniels collected to satisfy his lifelong fascination with horology, and which no doubt brought him great enjoyment. We are delighted to have been entrusted with the sale of this important group.”

All proceeds from the sale of the collection will go to help the George Daniels Educational Trust, which works to make funds available to students in order that they may further their education in the disciplines of horology, medicine, engineering, building or construction.

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The first half of January saw diamond markets stable, but trading remained cautious. Jewellery retailers reported steady Christmas sales with tight profits and increased revenue due to higher prices. Tiffany & Co’s November to December sales were up seven per cent to $952 million (£603 million); Zale Corp’s were up by six per cent to $564 million (£357.8 million); Birks & Mayors’ were up five per cent to $80 million (£50.7 million) and Signet’s were up eight per cent. Theo Fennell was reportedly down by 11 per cent.

The end of January saw India impose a two per cent import tax on polished diamonds. Rough trading was weak as ALROSA cut prices by about five per cent. Tiffany & Co and Damas partnered for the purpose of operating Tiffany stores in the United Arab Emirates. India’s December polished exports were down 40 per cent to $1.5 billion (£0.95 billion); Belgium’s December polished exports were up 19 per cent to $1.2 billion (£0.76 billion); the United States’ polished imports for November were up seven per cent to $1.5 billion (£0.95 billion); and China’s 2011 diamond imports were up 56 per cent to $2 billion (£1.2 billion).

Japan’s December polished diamond imports were up 28 per cent to $67 million (£42.5 million). The Rio Tinto 2011 diamond prices were up 24 per cent on the whole, as diamond sales rose by seven per cent to $727 million (£461 million). BHP Billiton’s 2011 diamond sales were down 16 per cent to $357 million (£226 million), and operating earnings down 41 per cent to $120 million (£76.1 million). Belgium’s January polished exports rose by one per cent to $820 million (£520 million), with rough imports decreasing by one per cent to $1.1 billion (£0.69 billion). Botswana’s 2011 diamond exports were reportedly up 40 per cent to $4.5 billion (£2.85 billion).

Source: Rapaport TradeWire

diAmONd mArkET

Images: Monnickendam Diamonds

Spring fair launch for the british Jewellers’ Association awardsTo celebrate its 125th anniversary this year, the British Jewellers’ Association (BJA) has launched a membership awards programme to recognise the efforts and contributions that BJA members and suppliers make to the UK jewellery industry.

Lindsey Straughton, BJA marketing and PR manager, said: “Through this new awards programme, we are absolutely delighted to promote the efforts of our membership. Too often, the great work and service our members provide to the industry goes unrecognised and this new initiative is a great opportunity to showcase their products, services and achievements.

“Winners will receive a special commemorative plaque, and of course, the plaudits from their peers!” she added. Both winners and shortlisted nominees will also have use of a unique BJA logo celebrating their achievement.

The nomination process has already started and BJA members are invited to submit their entries for five distinct categories: BJA Member of the Year, BJA Supplier of the Year, BJA Industry Contributor of the Year, BJA Designer of the Year and BJA Retailer of the Year.

Submission of nominations finishes on 10 September, when the entries will be shortlisted by an industry-wide judging panel. Voting for those shortlisted will end on 26 November. The awards programme will then culminate in a black tie ceremony at the prestigious Jewellery and Giftware Ball, which this year will be held in Birmingham on 6 December.

Further details and nomination forms are available at www.bja.org.uk

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Ti Sento launches Facebook shopCharming by Ti Sento has recently opened its online Facebook shop as “the first jewellery brand to offer its ‘likers’ the opportunity to buy personalised charms online via the most popular social media platform in the world.” The brand added: “As a social media platform, Facebook is increasingly being used to shop. Charming is embracing this trend and is one of the first jewellery brands to launch its own Facebook shop. The brand will use this Facebook shop to expand its online marketing activities.” Examples of the creations, the stories behind the collection and exclusive behind-the-scenes material can be found on the Charming Facebook page, at www.facebook.com/charmingbytisento

BHI Silver MedalThe British Horological Institute (BHI) has awarded Roger Smith the Barrett Silver Medal of the BHI at its recent annual awards and new members day at Upton Hall, Newark. The award is in recognition of his dedication to and successful continuation of the finest traditions of English watchmaking. First awarded in 1987, the BHI Silver Medal is only awarded to members of the BHI and, although presented at the annual event, is not necessarily an annual award. Since 2000 it has only been awarded six times, requiring “a justifiably outstanding achievement in the opinion of the panel.”

Condor Group awardFor the second year running, Condor Group has named Dean Craske its group area sales manager of the year. Dean was presented with a trophy, certificate and Thomas Cook vouchers valued at £1,000. The award is based on Dean’s exceptional customer sales and service record, superb area management, strong communication, and administration records.

Aurum announces rise in profitsAurum Holdings, the owner of Goldsmiths and Mappin & Webb, has braved the downturn and posted a 53 per cent rise in operating profits. They rose to £18.3 million in the year to 29 January 2012, up from £12 million, while like-for-like sales were up 10.2 per cent to £300.6 million, and online sales increased by 10.7 per cent. Chief executive Justin Stead said: “2011 has been a very exciting year for us and we are delighted with our brands’ performance. We don’t expect retail conditions to improve materially in 2012. However we remain confident that we are now in an even better position to continue to deliver growth in the future.”

New Mary Portas seriesMary Portas is seeking independent retailers for a new series for Channel 4. The programme makers would like to hear from retailers who are struggling to make their business a success and are looking for advice and guidance. “After months of research for her government review on the state of our high street, Mary Portas is determined to do more to breathe life back into our local shopping areas,” explained the producers. “In her new series, Mary will work with small, independent shops to implement some of her ideas. Shop by shop, she wants to transform the high street into a centre for socialising and deliver the kind of service that will give locals a reason to go there." If you own your own business and would like more information, email [email protected] or call 0203 227 5896.

ANd briEfly international interest in Antwerp diamondTrade fairThe Antwerp Diamond Bourse and Diamond Club welcomed visitors and diamond buyers from across Europe and the Middle East to its famous and historic trading halls as over 70 local companies exhibited collections of diamonds, gemstones and diamond jewellery.

Many of the world’s leading diamond dealers and manufacturers from Israel, India and Antwerp assembled for the third edition of the Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair, which took place from 29 to 31 January. Some 8 in every 10 rough diamonds, and 5 in every 10 polished diamonds pass through Antwerp, which has built its reputation as a leading diamond centre over the centuries. “We hope that this Fair will strengthen Antwerp as an important centre for diamonds for years to come,” commented Raphael Rubin, a senior official of the organiser, the Antwerp World Diamond Centre.

Suzanne Eid, managing editor of Beirut-based luxury publication Collection, co-ordinated the delegation of Saudi and Lebanese buyers. She commented that while Antwerp was a regular destination for many of the buyers, the Trade Fair provided an excellent opportunity for them to increase their supplier sourcing. “Gauging the delegation’s reactions, I think the Fair’s format is a great fit for jewellers who seek access to Antwerp’s diamond market.”

Dealers attending the Fair voiced concerns that polished diamond prices may struggle to hold onto gains in the first quarter of 2012 due to worries over the global economy. For 2011 as a whole, the Rapaport Group’s RapNet Diamond Index of prices for one-carat polished diamonds – a benchmark closely tracked by the industry – rose 19 per cent.

Trollbeads designs charitybead for rAf benevolent fundTrollbeads, the Danish charm bead jewellery brand, has introduced a unique charity bead dedicated to the Royal Air Force Benevolent Fund (RAFBF), which offers support to all serving and former members of the RAF as well as their partners and dependent children.

Released on 1 February and designed by Trollbeads originator Lise Aagaard, the Murano glass bead reflects the RAFBF ‘Heart Roundel’ logo, featuring a red heart set in a white circle with a blue border.

Trollbeads distributor Fable Trading Ltd has agreed to donate £3 from every bead sold to the RAFBF towards its work in supporting members of the RAF family. Sarah Morfoot, managing director of Fable Trading, said: “This dedicated bead is a great way for people to show their respect and support for members of the RAF and their families.”

8 – 15 MarchBaselworldMesse BaselBasel, Switzerlandwww.baselworld.com

21 – 27 MarchBADA Antiques & Fine Art FairDuke of York Square, Londonwww.bada-antiques-fair.co.uk

15 – 17 AprilBritish Craft Trade FairGreat Yorkshire Showground, Harrogatewww.bctf.co.uk

2 – 5 SeptemberAutumn Fair InternationalNEC Birminghamwww.autumnfair.com

2 – 5 SeptemberInternational Jewellery LondonEarls Court 2 Londonwww.jewellerylondon.com

Dates for your diary...

NEW APPOiNTmENTS14

british Hallmarking Council appoints new chairmanThe former chairman of the 238-year-old Sheffield Assay Office has been appointed to the organisation’s governing body, the British Hallmarking Council.

A dedicated and active member of the South Yorkshire community, Sheffield-born Christopher Jewitt, 52, has previously served as master cutler of the Company of Cutlers in Hallamshire, and was appointed a deputy lieutenant for South Yorkshire in 1996. He is currently a director of the Steel City hand tool manufacturing firm Footprint Sheffield Limited.

As chairman of the British Hallmarking Council, Jewitt will oversee hallmarking across the United Kingdom; a system which has been established for several hundred years. He will chair a team that will work to uphold the high levels of protection for both trade and the consumer on hallmarked products, and to ensure that any legislation brought about within the industry is upheld.

Chris Heaton (right) presents Christopher Jewitt with a Bowl made by Suzi Horan to commemorate his six years' service as chairman of Sheffield Assay Office

New chief financial officer for the De Beers GroupDe Beers Group has appointed Gareth Mostyn as the company’s chief financial officer. Mostyn, who is currently head of corporate finance at Anglo American, began in his new London-based role on 1 February.

Mostyn has extensive experience in corporate and operational finance, having previously worked on major capital projects and organisational alignment, with substantial experience in South Africa.

Commenting on the appointment, Philippe Mellier, De Beers Group’s chief executive officer, said: “I am pleased to be able to add Gareth to De Beers’ management team. He is already familiar with our business, and will bring that knowledge, hands-on experience and proven track record to the role. As chief financial officer, Gareth will be instrumental in sharpening our strategic focus and helping to identify value-creating opportunities.”

Mostyn commented: “I am grateful for the confidence placed in me by Philippe and De Beers’ shareholders. This is an exciting time for the diamond business and we have a unique opportunity in front of us to secure De Beers’ long-term leadership position in this changing market. I am thrilled to be joining an iconic company with a strong heritage and incomparable product, and look forward to working with our producer partners, sight holders and colleagues to build on our shared success.”

New managing director for lapponia and kalevala koruEffective from the beginning of February, Riitta Huuhtanen has been named as the new managing director of Kalevala Koru and its subsidiary, Lapponia Jewelry. Ms Huuhtanen has worked as the company’s sales and marketing director since 2005, and knows both brands very well. She succeeds Laura Lares, who will go on to set up her own training and communications consultancy.

“Leading Kalevala Koru and Lapponia is a great opportunity, and one which I gladly accept. The company has developed systematically over the last few years and both brands are keenly attuned to the times. Their strengths lie in strong design, recognisability and the respect they enjoy among jewellery wearers. I have spent the last six years developing both brands, which will provide a natural direction for my new role. We will continue to build innovative business models that respect our customers and enhance the originality of our company,” she said.

Celebrating its 75th anniversary this year, Kalevala Koru is a strong player in the Finnish jewellery industry, and one of Finland’s most valued brands, acquiring Lapponia Jewelry in 2005.

New appointmentsKeeping up to date with your industry representatives

WATCH SPECiAl16

Times of changeLouise Hoffman speaks

to Richard Thomas MBHI, chairman of council at the British

Horological Institute, to hear his thoughts on developments

within the watch-making industry and his organisation’s

role in ensuring its success

When was the British Horological Institute established? And how has it developed since then in terms of structure and objectives?The British Horological Institute (BHI) was established in 1858 in order to protect the watch- and clock-making industry from the large number of imported, inexpensive and poor quality clocks and watches, and soon began offering training in horology. It started life in premises in Northampton Square in London – now part of the City University – but moved to its present location, Upton Hall in Upton, Nottinghamshire, in 1972. Its monthly publication, the Horological Journal, is believed to be the oldest continuously published technical journal in the country.

The BHI remains a not-for-profit membership organisation as a company limited by guarantee. A board or council of 10 elected members is responsible for the governance of the Institute, and the general manager implements the policies determined by council through his staff of six.

The Institute’s objectives remain the education and support of clock- and watchmakers, and the setting of standards. Nowadays most of its professional members are repairers and conservators, but there is a large

membership of recreational horologists. The Institute aspires to be the natural home of all involved in horology.

How long have you been chairman of council at the BHI, and what does your day-to-day role entail?I have been chairman of council since June 2010. Directors are elected for three-year terms, and the chairman is proposed by the directors and is elected for a renewable one-year term. Whilst I may be only a few months away from the end of my term, I hope to continue in the role long enough to implement further change.

The role of chairman is very flexible; the principal role is to chair council meetings every two months and attend other Institute meetings by right of office, but of course one maintains regular contact with the general manager and other directors, as well as preparing for the council meetings and attending important BHI functions, and meetings and events of other organisations.

What is your own background in horology?Most chairmen have been working horologists and, as the post is honorary, must continue to work in their business. I continue to trade

“The latest trends are favouring hand-

built watches, and I am particularly

pleased that Brit ish watchmakers are well represented

in this market”

as a BHI registered clockmaker in repairing, maintaining and conserving antique clocks in my hometown of Stratford-upon-Avon. I prefer to work on English bracket and long case clocks, but I also see a steady stream of French mantel, carriage clocks and other types.

What, in your opinion, has been the most impressive technological or design innovation in the last decade? And how have you noticed the watch-making industry change in recent years? Do you believe this has influenced the market for timepieces, or is it more a case of the market influencing the industry?The most impressive changes in horology are centred on the phenomenal increase in the manufacture and sale of high-end watches. Who would have foreseen, after the impact of quartz technology in the 1970s and 80s, and the consequent collapse of the Swiss mechanical watch-making industry that, within 30 years mechanical watches, especially complicated ones, would be regarded as so desirable that many cost tens of thousands of pounds!

Technical innovation has been mainly confined to production techniques and machines that enable the manufacture of these watches, although we must not forget the brilliant co-axial escapement of the recently deceased Dr George Daniels.

The latest trends are favouring hand-built watches, and I am particularly pleased that British watchmakers are well represented in this market. Buyers are now demanding both straightforward and complex watches; all with an emphasis on beautiful design and craftsmanship. Whether the industry or the market is driving these trends is hard to say, but

Swiss manufacturers make huge investments to influence the market. Perhaps the current trend towards hand-made British watches is a reaction to this high-end marketing?

How has the BHI responded to these changes, in terms of informing and supporting members?The BHI has responded to these changes by co-operating with some manufacturers to train BHI registered watchmakers in the special demands of today’s products. Our examination system and distance learning courses are being constantly developed with the help of our partners in the watch houses to reflect the need for enhanced skills to maintain these new high-end Swiss and hand-built British watches. In the clock field the emphasis has been on the application of conservation techniques both for domestic and turret clocks, and especially for public collections. The Institute holds regular seminars so that members may pool their knowledge of these developing skills, and is emphasising, among the professional membership, the need for continuing professional development.

What are your personal hopes for horology as we move deeper into the 21st century?Change is becoming increasingly rapid as we move through the 21st century. I hope the Institute will be able to accelerate its response to this. It will continue to regard education as the foundation for supporting its members and will strive to work harder, together with other horological bodies, to keep the skills of horologists evolving. There surely is a bright future for horologists in making new clocks and watches, and conserving our horological heritage.

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“There surely is a bright future for horologists in making new clocks and watches, and conserving our horological heritage”

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Baselworld, the World Watch and Jewellery Show, opens its doors to the specialist trade on 8 March, marking the start of eight days of trade networking

Paul Harry, sales and marketing director for Peers Hardy, distributor of such brands as Ice-Watch and Kenneth Cole, said: “Basel is always a valuable opportunity for us to meet our business partners and exchange market knowledge and vision. As usual, we expect to see new trends emerging throughout the industry.

“Ice-Watch will certainly be cementing its position as leader of the fashion watch segment and announcing more than 10 new and creative collections to keep the competition on its toes! And with announcements about substantial improvements in quality, the opening of flagship stores, and moving into emerging markets such as Russia,

From the 8 to 15 March, key brands of the luxury goods sector, including eminent watch and jewellery companies and

suppliers of gemstones and pearls, will be presenting their innovations at the exhibition ground in Basel.

Aspiring to provide positive stimuli for the industry, the show management is convinced that Baselworld 2012 will live up to expectations. Some 1,800 exhibitors and more than 100,000 professional visitors from all over the world are expected to grace the 160,000 square metre exhibition floor, presenting their collections and their brand worlds at a show that is clearly divided into sectors.

Watch brands such as Armin Strom, Ingersoll, Harry Winston, Bering Time, Chopard, Festina, Maurice Lacroix, Blancpain, TW Steel, Hamilton, Jacob & Co, Boucheron, Luminox, Michel Herbelin, Mondaine, Rado, Skagen, and Torgoen will all be present at the event, ready and waiting to showcase their latest timepiece designs and discuss their company credentials with international trade visitors.

China and India, it’s going to be a busy and exciting event for us.”

The extensive building work for the new hall infrastructure, which was announced last year, will be interrupted for the duration of Baselworld 2012. The organisers have confirmed that the show will not be affected at all by the construction work being carried out ready for the 2013 event, and all of the hall entrances will be available as usual.

Date Thursday 8 march to Thursday 15 march 2012 Venue Exhibition Center basel (messe basel) Opening hours Daily from 9am to 6pm. On the final day from 9am to 4pm Admission prices 1 day pass CHf 60.00 8 day pass CHf 150.00 Organiser mCH Swiss Exhibition (basel) ltd Web www.baselworld.com Email [email protected] Facebook www.facebook.com/baselworld Twitter www.twitter.com/baselworld

Thecountdown begins

BAS

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Date Thursday 8 march to Thursday 15 march 2012 Venue Exhibition Center basel (messe basel) Opening hours Daily from 9am to 6pm. On the final day from 9am to 4pm Admission prices 1 day pass CHf 60.00 8 day pass CHf 150.00 Organiser mCH Swiss Exhibition (basel) ltd Web www.baselworld.com Email [email protected] Facebook www.facebook.com/baselworld Twitter www.twitter.com/baselworld

This piece from Roamer’s Ceraline Saphira range has been created with stylish sapphire crystal and an anti-reflective coating. The collection contains a selection of versatile and sophisticated pieces, all offering quartz movement. RRP: From £325 Information: 0121 436 1200 or www.roamer.ch Baselworld: Hall 1.1 Stand D75

Onesto watch

The creation of Danish Design watches goes back to 1988. At that time, the demand for modern designed watches was high but the choice was very poor. Scandinavian designs are famous for having simple, elegant and non-obtrusive characteristics. The Danish Design range of watches consists of over 350 models, from simple titanium timepieces, to large, bold, stainless steel watches. RRP: From £70 Information: 0161 794 7310, [email protected] or www.danishdesignwatches.eu

Breitling introduces the ‘traveller’s chronograph’ in a new size suited to all wrists. Due to be unveiled at Baselworld 2012, the Chronomat GMT comes in a new 44mm diameter. This slightly smaller-sized version is also distinguished by its rotating bezel, providing a 24-hour third time zone reading. The chronometer-certified Breitling Caliber 04 was designed and developed in the brand workshops to achieve high levels of user friendliness. “Those with a taste for unusual designs will also be won over by the original combination of power and elegance, by the rotating bezel engraved with exclusive numerals, and by the ultra-refined finishes,” says Breitling. RRP: £7,120 to £8,170 Information: 0207 637 5354 Baselworld: Hall 1.0, Stand A13

The Philip Stein Prestige Cocktail Collection includes the model pictured, featuring an interchangeable Merino red double wraparound strap, a steel case with pavé diamond-encrusted bezel, and a diamond dial. RRP: £3,165 Information: 0121 233 4680 Baselworld: Hall 1.1, Stand CO3

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Donald Clarke has a history of manufacturing and supplying watchstraps which stretches back to 1919, and is happy to offer a “comprehensive selection at competitive prices.” The company says that all stock in the range is of high quality and offers many outstanding features, such as genuine leather with water and sweat resistance, as well as being extremely hard wearing, with buckles conforming to the new EEC regulations on nickel release. There are both traditional and modern styles – some offering a Rembordé Edge. “The above benefits result in customer safety and satisfaction from all our products,” explains Donald Clarke. “This small family business can offer a reliable and fast service to the industry, but most of all gives flexibility to listen to our customers’ needs.” The full range of Rayovac batteries is also stocked. Information: 01829 771 333, [email protected] or www.watchstraps.org

Issey Miyake watches are the result of a collaboration between Seiko Instruments and the Issey Miyake Design Studios. Each watch range features “pieces of art that have a story behind them.” Industrial designers such as Naoto Fukasawa, Ives Behar and Ross Lovegrove have designed ranges of watches in these series. The O watch by Tokujin Yoshioka has the concept of ‘shape of water – transparent time’, and the name ‘O’ corresponds with the pronunciation of the French word for water, ‘eau’. RRP: £165 Information: 0161 794 7310, [email protected] or www.isseymiyake-watch.com Baselworld: Hall 5.0, Stand C31

At Basel, Ice-Watch will be showcasing several new and exciting collections. Ice-Alu (pictured) has a metallic finish aluminium bracelet and case. Colours include anthracite, deep blue, deep purple, gold, turquoise, green, pink and purple. “Neons are right on trend and the Ice-Summer 12 range is ready to make a splash this season,” explains Ice-Watch. The range features four bright neon colours – blue, yellow, red, and purple. The popular Ice-White now features a bezel edge that matches the colour of the dial, and Ice-Pure is a fresh take on the classic with a thicker bracelet, made from Ice-Ramic, a new material developed by Ice-Watch. Ice-Solid also features vibrant colours such as orange, red, green and yellow and, like Ice-Pure, now has the extra shiny, thicker Ice-Ramic band. Also being shown will be all of the Ice-Watch favourites, including Sili Forever, Sili Seasonal, Ice-Chrono, Ice-Love, Ice-Blue and more. RRP: £150 (approx) Information: www.ice-watch.com Baselworld: Hall 5.0, Stand D31

TechnoMarine has introduced the new Night Vision model, which features a monochromatic black-on-black design, but when darkness falls the watch face lightens in bold streaks of colour. “The Night Vision is subtle, sharp and supremely confident. It’s inconspicuous, but always stands apart from the crowd,” says TechnoMarine. RRP: £495 Information: 0121 233 4680 Baselworld: Hall 1.1, Stand B51

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Danish company Rosendahl Timepieces is part of the Rosendahl Design Group, which is very much influenced by minimalist and Scandinavian design traditions. The new range of Picto watches by Steen Geog Christensen and Erling Anderson have been designed to give a ‘picture’ of time. Where traditional watches show the time with ticking hands, it is the watch face that rotates on Picto. Conversely, the hour hand is fixed like a dot on the face of the watch. RRP: £115 Information: 0161 794 7310, [email protected] or www.rosendahl-timepieces.com

The Gulliver Round Fiber Chrono is part of the Tendence Gulliver Round line – featuring a bold tri-dimensional design, unique size and special material combinations. Composed of modern materials including hi-tech polycarbonate, stainless steel and silicon straps, there is a wide range of styles available in the Gulliver line, from casual urban or sport, to full-on glamour. RRP: £420 Information: 0121 436 1200 or www.tendencewatches.com Baselworld: Hall 1.1, Stand B75

Nooka’s latest release – the Zub Zibi – offers a new and unique way of telling the time, and at a much lower price to its previous models. The Zub Zibi watch face boasts a futuristic digital approach to time telling with the minutes displayed by a central number and the hours represented by solid blocks that circulate the face. The sleek, slim-line design uses a clever strap system that tucks neatly into itself with a subtle button clasp. “The watches have seen huge success in the US and [we are] now launching [our] futuristic but affordable watches into the UK market,” says Nooka. RRP: £79 Information: 0844 812 6061 or www.nooka.com

As well as maintaining older generation Omega watches, Swiss Time Services Limited manufactures new Milanese bracelets in 9 and 18 carat gold. There are many different styles available and the bracelets can be soldered direct to the watchcase or fitted with tubes for spring bar fitting. The bracelets are individually handcrafted and supplied with adjustable gold ladder clasps, on which selected manufacturers’ logos can be fitted. The company also undertakes repairs to gold watches and bracelets and can manufacture various other gold parts on request. All bracelets come with a two-year guarantee. Information: 01702 543 100, [email protected] or www.swisstimeservices.com

I popped in to see my old mate Andrew Johnston the other day. He is the proprietor of Harbour Times Jewellers on Weymouth’s picturesque

Quayside, and it is a lovely place to visit and have a good old natter. And there, right in front of my eyes, was a display of watches that took me for a trip down memory lane.

Storm of London is a watch manufacturer which is so much a part of my affection for watches. In fact it helped set me on the path to a

lifetime’s devotion to the art and craft of horology.

I was in my late 20s and on holiday in Paignton, Devon, when I happened to window shop at a small jeweller in the high street. I saw a watch that I fell in love with straight away. It was designed to be a throwback to the Art Deco 1930s; rectangular; and quite big for that era of small watches, which dominated men’s fashion, unlike the ‘Big Ben’ watches that everybody wears these days.

Stormingahead

WATCH SPECiAl24

This month, Keith Fisher dedicates his column to a watch brand that holds a very special

place in his heart, not least because of its ability to innovate and

succeed in a demanding market

It was made of stainless steel with a white face and small Arabic numerals, and had a stainless steel expanding bracelet. It had the inscription ‘Time Chain’ on its face, and it cost me only £29.95; truly fantastic value for money.

I still have the watch to this day, and I love its old-fashioned style.

In my advanced, and hopefully mature, years, I have owned almost every watch known to man. Currently, I own a Patek, a Rolex and a Cartier, but that inexpensive Storm watch still sits proudly in my collection because it brings back such wonderful memories.

So let me do a bit of name dropping here to illustrate why I love this watch, and Storm, which was the very first watch manufacturer to introduce the retro style into its collection.

As a former senior executive of a mass-circulation national daily newspaper, I once tried to woo Liverpool soccer legend Graeme Souness into writing a column for the sports pages. We met for lunch at Langan’s Brasserie in London’s Mayfair – the top people’s restaurant and usually littered with ladies dripping with diamonds and the obligatory Rolexes for the men. Indeed, Graeme wore on his wrist a gold Rolex DateJust.

We had a fabulous working lunch because he was great company – an opinionated man with a wealth of stories, which made him an ideal columnist. But to this day I remember Graeme halting our conversation and pointing to my cheap-as-chips Storm watch, which I was wearing. “I love your watch,” he said. “So Deco. What is it?”

When I said “Time Chain”, and before I could elaborate, Graeme seemed to mistake my words to mean that it was an heirloom and had been passed down through generations of my family. He proceeded to add: “It is so stylish. You are a very lucky man.”

Rightly or wrongly, I just milked the moment. I never added a word about my watch – the truth, how cheap it was, etc.

I thought then, as I do now, that despite the plethora of highly expensive watches, all that matters is that the watch you wear and love makes you happy.

I wore that watch throughout most of my career, and it always brought me such good luck – in boardrooms, on the editorial floor, and at every social occasion all around the world.

And that is why Storm has a special place in my heart, and I am so happy that the company continues to thrive to this day.

Sadly, the Art Deco style has disappeared from its range, and in these challenging times www.stormwatches.com has taken on an altogether more funky look. But I must add that the watches still look so appealing – absolutely nothing has changed there!

And it is not just watches that have enabled Storm to compete and succeed in a cut-throat and demanding market. Superbly-designed bracelets, innovative earrings and pendants and a whole manner of accessories keep the company’s portfolio fresh and diverse.

Pictured here are just a few examples of the latest Storm timepieces – the Mexo, the Sena and Sena XL, the Zarina, the Bubbly, the Aston, and the MK2 Circuit.

From a personal point of view – and yes, I am biased, but I hope you can understand why after reading this – it is so warming to see a company still at the forefront of fashion after all these years.

I would just like to add one thing: thank you!

WATCH SPECiAl 25

It is so warming to see a company st i l l at the forefront of fashion after al l these years

Louise Hoffman catches up with Janek Deleskiewicz to find out a little about life as a Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre artistic director

WATCH SPECiAl26

designs for life

When did you begin designing watches, and what motivated you to become a designer?The first interest came from my family – my grandparents and my father liked watches and wore them in a very elegant way; British style. Later on I carried out technical studies and worked with people who were interested in combining technology and arts. In the beginning, I worked for the car industry and in various agencies for different areas such as mass consumption, sports, and art exhibitions for Paris museums such as the Grand Palais and the Centre Georges Pompidou. Industrial design interested me the most, as it is aimed at creating objects that make life easier and bring lots of pleasure.

What inspires you?Encounters with various personalities at various points in my life, and discussions with clients around the world who challenge us with questions to which we seek solutions. Apart from that, artistic works that reflect on contemporary life – cinema, books, music.

What are the main considerations that must be taken into account when designing a complication such as those in the Jaeger-LeCoultre collection?The history of the brand, and the specific features, or ‘DNA’ of the product line. It’s also important to have a clear vision of what the product will have to bring to someone who will wear it, by pushing the boundaries a little more each time.

Is there a friendly rivalry between designers, in terms of who can create the most innovative or intricate complication?Absolutely not. We share the projects, help each other and foster mutual appreciation for our work. The team is made up of designers from different parts of the world, from completely different backgrounds, which makes it even more interesting when sharing ideas and viewpoints.

Which piece are you particularly proud of?There is not one model, but a group of models – the complicated Reversos from the 1990s; Master Geographic; QP; and our tourbillons, which are exceptional pieces such as the Gyrotourbillon 1 and 2, and the Duomètre à Sphérotourbillon (pictured). We are also proud of our success in general – of having succeeded thanks to the confidence of different people at Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre and their strong motivation to fulfil the projects.

What do you enjoy most about your work?Discovering the object and building it in our imaginations and dreams. When we start designing, we imagine who will be wearing the timepiece, trying to ‘stage’ it – in other words, considering the role of the person who will be wearing it on his or her wrist and the reason for wearing it.

Do you have any ideas in the pipeline for new designs?We are working on creations for our female

clientele – ladies’ watches are challenging to design as they carry in them an emotion;

a poetic expression that cannot be rationalised. We have already created some unique and extraordinary pieces, such as La Rose and other high jewellery watches, but our female clientele keep asking us questions, and we have not found the answers to all of them yet…

What are your long-term career and design goals?

I have a team of young designers working with me. It’s important to pass on

everything that I have learned and to share my experiences with them, so that the same enthusiasm and passion for the brand stays within the next generation.

Equipped with a programmable countdown with a mechanical memory, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master II is an innovative watchmaking complication, based on interaction between the movement and the bezel. It allows the skipper to programme a regatta countdown sequence from 1 to 10 minutes. The model’s 4160 movement, designed and developed by Rolex, is fitted with a Parachrom hairspring, 10 times more resistant to shocks and insensitive to magnetic fields. The Yacht-Master II’s case is stamped from a block of 904L steel, which is extremely resistant to corrosion, and the blue Cerachrom bezel insert (patented and manufactured by Rolex) is virtually impervious to scratches, and is corrosion-resistant and non-fading.RRP: £16,770 Information: www.rolex.com/enBaselworld: Hall 1.0, Stand B05

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Luxurytimepieces

The barrels of the new Franck Muller Giga Tourbillon are first paired in series to double the operating reserve; they are then assembled parallel to one another so that the power of the movement is doubled. The barrels, with a diameter of 16mm, are 4mm wider than traditional ones, resulting in an almost constant force needed to operate the timepiece. Another special feature is that this exceptional movement has been reversed, with the bridges placed on the dial side, the hour setting and winding section located at the base, and the hour hand uniquely positioned on the minute hand. In order to ensure a 10-day operating reserve, displayed at midday, the Giga Tourbillon has been designed to feature four barrels, in comparison with traditional tourbillons, which generally are powered by only one or two barrels. As the name implies, the special feature of the Giga is the very large 20mm diameter Tourbillon occupying half of the watch.RRP: £150,774 (Curvex), £164,606 (Round) Prices may vary from time to time depending on the rate of exchangeInformation: www.franckmuller.com

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The new Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph Ref 5960P has a round case in 950 platinum with an anti-reflection-coated sapphire-crystal glass and a sapphire-crystal display back. With a case diameter of 40.5mm, the Ref. 5960 ranks among Patek Philippe’s larger timepieces. The watch is worn on a blue, large-scale alligator strap with a platinum fold-over clasp, and features a new matt blue sunburst dial with the two-tone monocounter in blue and silver. The model also unites a mechanical flyback chronograph and an Annual Calendar; two of the most popular complications in timekeeping. The calendar mechanism is based on a patent granted to Patek Philippe in 1996 for the Annual Calendar – it relies on wheels and pinions rather than the more common levers to control the calendar displays. Also pictured is the Ladies’ Twenty-4 Ref 4910/51G in white gold. RRP: £64,150 (5960P), £123,780 (4910/51G)Information: www.patek.com Baselworld: Hall 1.0, Stand D05

The new Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust Special Edition boasts a 34mm 18 carat Everose gold case, enriching a collection already offered in yellow and white gold. Around the bezel sparkle 12 brilliant-cut diamonds, elegantly showcased in 18 carat white gold settings. The dial is a subtle marriage of white or black mother-of-pearl and gold dust. The mother-of-pearl is embellished with a new nature-inspired motif and an exquisite design in pink gold dust, applied in a fine layer via a patented PVD process which preserves the mother-of-pearl’s natural structure while giving it a metallic sheen. RRP: £24,040

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How did you begin your career in watch design?Being a lover of beautiful objects, and being surrounded by my father’s watches as a child, I naturally became interested in watch design, and when I began thinking about my career, I decided to approach this professionally in Switzerland.

After working for several watch companies and really learning about this fascinating industry, I started my career at Maurice Lacroix in 2002 as international trade marketing manager. My main challenge at that time was to re-design our corporate brand visual identity, with key projects being the Baselworld booth and international POS. After this, in 2004, my new career in the world of product design started.

My first appointment was as product manager, with the objective to continue applying my visionary, creative and design skills into our product. These were very exciting years with the re-launch of many collections, including our famous Pontos collection.

In 2006 I took control of the overall product responsibility as product director, leading the design as well as the development of our manufacture movements, and then in late 2008 – after the departure of our former CEO Philippe Merk (who joined Audemars Piguet) and the appointment of Martin Bachmann as the new CEO – I also took responsibility for marketing, leading brand re-positioning work (after the dramatic economic downturn began).

Back in July 2011 our minority shareholder DKSH (a market expansion services group) took over the majority,

Product director Sandro Reginelli tells Louise Hoffman about his career and inspirations, and whets our appetites for

forthcoming innovations, courtesy of his team at Maurice Lacroix

Positivemomentum

allowing Maurice Lacroix an amazing new perspective for its future development.

We have been operating under this new direction since the end of 2011, and now under the lead of Marc Glaeser I am focusing my responsibilities towards product/R&D, pushing my core competence to new levels with new opportunities.

What and who inspires you?First and foremost, my father, my family and my friends are all very important in my life and key factors in my professional success. But, in general, all of my inspiration comes from people. When I look at products, my first reaction is to wonder who’s behind them, who could buy them, and why.

I am not the type of guy who wants to create ‘l’art pour l’art’ – I want to design products that can be used and products that our customers are proud to own, and in turn are successful for Maurice Lacroix.

Is there a particular ethos or tradition that designers at Maurice Lacroix adhere to when developing new models?Besides what I mentioned above, which is very important, we must also always have our target customer at the centre of the equation and constantly be thinking of them while designing. That said, from a pure design perspective, what ever you do you must find the right balance – all aspects, such as materials, execution, finish and colours, must naturally be linked together.

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Swiss watch manufacturer to have developed a ‘square’ movement wheel (which are of course normally always round).

Alongside the so-called traditional movement/complication development, Maurice Lacroix will continue to surprise by daringly proposing innovative ways to contemplate time. There are many more exciting ideas to come in time so be patient.

Which of the timepieces you have worked on is your favourite, and why?It might not sound very original, but the truth is I don’t have any favourites! My team and I worked passionately on all of the projects, and I love them all. In fact I have nearly all of the developments that we have achieved in the last eight years pictured on my office walls! Every day I have the same reaction… I look at them and think: “We did a great job, let’s continue to do even better!”

What feelings do you aim to inspire in wearers of your watches, when they have them on their wrists?Naturally I would like them to feel that the watch is part of them and can effectively portray their personality. I would like to think it inspires them to be successful and fulfill their modern lifestyle.

Do you have any ideas in the pipeline for new designs?Of course, I have a lot of new ideas! Bearing in mind we can already make square wheels turn round, I will let your imagination sparkle…

“I am not the type of guy who wants to create ‘l’art pour l’art’ – I want to

design products that can be used”

Our objective is to induce a compulsive buying reaction as best we can – “I want it! Everything about it is right!” But the most important challenge we face in a project is always the same: finding the right blend to bring together our three key brand objectives of product philosophy, design DNA and target group.

Can you tell us about some of the most impressive complications, movements and features of Maurice Lacroix watches?Maurice Lacroix is recognised as the specialist in developing and manufacturing its own movement and complications, such as Rétrograde, Moon Phase and Chronograph functions. Thanks to these complications and our incomparable design style we have already won some Red Dot Awards. Actually, in 2007 we were the first Swiss watch brand to win the famous and most coveted category of ‘Best of the Best’ with our Pontos Décentrique GMT, and since then we have regularly been awarded for various products, such as the Masterpiece Squelette, Masterpiece Lune Rétrograde, Masterpiece Régulateur Roue Carrée and Pontos Décentrique Phases de Lune. We are very proud that the design award institution has confirmed the good work of Maurice Lacroix; no doubt this is very promising for the future.

As a young Swiss manufacturer I am always very proud to underline the fact that our fully integrated organisation, from design/conception to production, has allowed us to achieve no less than 11 movement manufacturing developments. But now we are also recognised as the first

“The watch market is a hugely polarised one and this became

even more evident in 2011”

WATCH SPECiAl32

for more information about international Jewellery london, please visit the re-launched website at

Watching the marketSyreeta Tranfield, IJL event director, speaks to two

watch industry experts to ascertain how the watch market is currently performing, and how it is likely to progress

evident in 2011. Watches selling at over £1,000 now take over 50 per cent of the market value each month, despite a decline in the volumes sold. At the more mass market end of the market, watches under £100 have declined in value share, while watches priced between £100 and £300 have grown in importance,” commented Jonathan.

The experience of each individual company is likely to vary of course, depending on the product. For Unique Jewelry, for example, Daniel noted the following: “In my opinion the biggest retailing trend is value for money. People want well made, good looking watches for a fair price (RRP

£59 to £300), but they don’t want cheap watches that you can find everywhere. At the same time, the very expensive Swiss-made watches are doing well, because people want to go for a representative brand. The market which is probably suffering the most is the price level from RRP £300 to £1,000. In terms of branding, people want something new and I also think people like watch brands – ones which are considered ‘proper’ watch brands and not just a fashion label.”

A key question looking forward is what to expect for the watch industry as 2012 progresses. Of course there is no crystal ball to look into, but expert

predictions are valuable. With so much market data to hand,

Jonathan is well placed to comment. He told me:

“The story of 2011 was a decline in volume (-4.5 per

cent), but a large rise in value (+8.5 per cent), due to a wide range of price increases at all ends of the markets. I anticipate this will continue into 2012, with London seeing further increase in value share with the

Olympics. Retailers in London are now taking advantage of the

tourist market by accepting Union Pay cards, and with London set to

be a huge tourist destination this trend will continue to grow.”

It will be interesting to see how market and trend predictions develop as

we build up to Christmas and 2013, starting with IJL. In the meantime, the feedback from

manufacturers and distributors is that there is still good potential for watch brands in the UK retail market, as long as retailers get their offering right.

Many retailers offer both watches and jewellery, and are looking at ways their watch offering can complement (and even up-sell) their jewellery offering, and vice versa.

It’s valuable to take advice. Jonathan Hedges of GfK Retail and Technology UK (pictured) is a real expert on the watch market and I spoke to him to discuss how the market is currently shaping up, broadly speaking. I also caught up with Daniel Ozel of Unique Jewelry, who launched the Festina watch brand (pictured) in the UK last year, to gain the perspective of a watch and jewellery distributor.

In terms of trends, ceramic watches are doing very well. Both Jonathan and Daniel noted this, with Jonathan pointing out that the new feature is either in the strap or the case. “Ceramic watches were previously only available within the high-end market, but the average price for a ceramic watch is now well under £500 as opposed to over £1,500, as it was 15 months ago. Ceramic watches now equate to five per cent of the total market value and this is consistently growing each month. With many brands releasing new ceramic ranges, this trend is set to continue,” he said.

Unique Jewelry has so far been successful with its watch brand Festina, and Daniel pointed out that the fresh, sporty feel of the brand seems to be going down well with customers. He described the trend as being a “combination of sporty and elegance; watches you can wear for sports and with jeans, but which are also wearable with a suit. Another trend is the black plated (PVD plated) cases of watches.”

As for retailing trends and price points, GfK Retail and Technology has been closely monitoring performance. “The watch market is a hugely polarised one and this became even more

WATCH SPECiAl34

Senior valuer Phil Withington explains the methodical procedure that SafeGuard valuers undertake when determining an appropriate

insurance replacement value for a watch

Rising precious metal and diamond prices and the continuing popularity of prestigious branded watches are driving a steady flow of business to SafeGuard,

the division of the Birmingham Assay Office that carries out valuations for jewellery, watches and silverware.

Valuing a watch for insurance replacement can be quite a challenge. Depending on the age and potential availability of the watch, the value may be set as a new replacement value (NRV); second hand replacement value (SHRV); nearest alternative new replacement value (NANRV); or reasonable compensation value (RCV), at the valuer’s discretion.

As with all the professional services undertaken by the Birmingham Assay Office, the first important step is careful visual inspection by an experienced expert. In valuing a watch the recognised norm is that the valuation is based upon external features, with no expectation that the case will be opened. The valuer’s opinion relies upon a visual inspection to include all visible components and serial numbers. Features such as dial printing and position of numerals/batons are also checked to see if they meet expectations.

In carrying out this inspection, the valuer will establish whether the watch is genuine and in its original state; a current model easily

replaceable like for like; and whether it has any unusual features, or is part of a limited edition, which could enhance its value. The overall condition of the piece is also assessed. If the watch is deemed to be a genuine, current model then a valuation can be readily applied from the catalogue price list.

However, the valuation is not always this simple. An experienced valuer will usually know instinctively if a piece is ‘not right’. It could be a hybrid made up from various original parts from a legitimate source, but which create a product that is not recognised or available direct from the maker; or it could be a copy or a fake. If there are features which make the valuer suspicious that the watch is a counterfeit, he or she may seek the customer’s permission to carry out an internal inspection and ‘watch authentication’ at an additional cost in order to check part numbers on the movement and examine tell tale features more closely.

Some watches may be customised with additional parts such as diamonds added to the case, bezel, bracelet or dial, creating a product that is not available as an original. Such a piece is not directly replaceable and valuing such items, and old watches where the model is now discontinued, gives the valuer the biggest challenge in terms of arriving at a replacement value for insurance which is fair to both the policyholder and the insurer. A typical example of this is that an all-steel Rolex will never be set with diamonds, so if the watch to be valued has diamonds then these have been added by someone other than Rolex, after manufacture. In this case the NRV does not apply as it would be impossible to go and purchase this item outright. The valuer would therefore give either an SHRV or RCV.

Valuing a watch

A further complication arises where the watch is particularly rare or collectable, which must be acknowledged in the valuation. The Rolex Comex Seadweller, issued to Comex divers, bears the ‘Comex’ logo, which separates it from the standard model. These command prices way beyond the nearest alternative new Sea Dweller (116660) model, therefore it is paramount to identify non-standard models. RCV should be applied to these types of watches, as they can be difficult to source and are highly collectable.

In every case ascertaining that the watch is genuine is critical and taking time to consider a realistic replacement route and then applying a suitable value is key. In complicated circumstances, open discussions with the client and their insurer can also be very important.

The birmingham Assay Office was founded in 1773 to provide a hallmarking facility to the rapidly expanding local silver trade. Over 238 years it has become established as the largest UK assay office. during the past decade the Assay Office has expanded its services further, far beyond its statutory assaying and hallmarking duties, and offers independent expert opinion on every aspect of the precious metal, jewellery and gemstone trade. for more information visit

The same approach would apply if the manufacturer no longer exists. In this case the standard approach is to assess the quality of the brand and its workmanship and to evaluate any precious metals used. The valuer would then seek to find a current market alternative if one exists. If this proves impossible, then an SHRV will be applied.

In seeking an appropriate equivalent, the valuer must ensure that he or she does not fall foul of the principle of ‘betterment’. This can occur when the finish or functionality of the original model is significantly exceeded by the current alternative. A car driver who crashed a 1982 Ford Escort would not expect to have it replaced with a 2012 Ford Focus, even under a ‘new for old’ policy, and the same applies here. A good example is the Breitling B2 Chronograph on a pin buckle strap. This was discontinued in 2007 when it retailed at £2,290. The NANRV in the range today would be a Skyracer Raven, at £5,090. Though this is an almost brand-to-brand replacement, in this instance the idea of placing an NANRV has to be considered as betterment, and an alternative method needs to be applied. This could be SHRV or RCV.

A slightly different example is the Omega nine carat ladies’ watches, which were popular in the 1970s but which are no longer manufactured. The method for valuing one of these will depend upon the condition of the piece. If the watch is in bad condition, the valuer might recommend a valuation based on the precious metal weight plus a standard mark-up. Alternatively, if the watch is in excellent condition then there are two options: SHRV or NANRV.

In cases such as these, dialogue and open discussion with the client and the insurance company is crucial to ascertain what is expected regarding the liability in the event of a loss.

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Phil WithingtonIRV, RJ Val Dip, FNAGAfter over 20 years working in jewellery retail and as a jeweller, Phil has been valuing for SafeGuard for over 10 years. As senior valuer, he not only values up to 50 items a day himself, but also handles customer queries and lends his expertise and advice to the rest of the team when they are confronted with a particularly difficult or unusual item. Phil carries out in-store event days around the country, as do all SafeGuard valuers, and enjoys the challenge of having to value an item and explain all its intricacies while the customer looks on.

What do you think makes Valentina Murano glass jewellery so popular?The story of the creation of Murano glass, dating back over 1,000 years, along with the handcrafted nature and the sheer beauty of the beads, create an irresistible combination for the consumer. With 24 carat pure gold or silver foil, the beads are like little jewels, and their popularity has been highlighted by the growth in Murano glass sales over the last few years; particularly bead-style bracelets.

At Valentina, we mostly design using sterling silver which, combined with the vibrancy of our beautiful Murano glass beads, makes our jewellery very eye-catching and, being entirely handcrafted, each piece is totally unique. In this current climate, the consumer is looking not just for good value for money, but for a story behind what they buy; something that adds value. Our jewellery does this.

By working with Murano glass, our jewellery ticks all the boxes; it’s collectable, commercial and colourful. Everyone has a favourite colour, and the variety of shapes, patterns and

Originally launched in 2005 by designer Penni Stevens, Valentina has become a firm favourite with independent jewellery and gift shops seeking beautiful and timeless jewellery made with genuine Murano glass. Here, Penni explains why Valentina is enjoying such success, and what her plans are for the future

for the new 2012 catalogue or to see the full collection, please contact H Gaventa Ltd on 01707 654 820 or email

colour combinations means we are able to offer something for everyone, for every occasion.

For the stockists of Murano glass jewellery, it has an incredibly high sell-through rate. Stockists both old and new often call us within days to restock. Having been described as having “legs of its own,” we know that a splash of Valentina’s vivid colours in a store guarantees consumer attention.

You have recently made an alliance with H Gaventa Ltd – why?Joining forces with Gaventa has allowed us to cross the huge bridge from our artisan roots to being a luxury brand. We still design and hand craft our jewellery in our Suffolk workshop, but now we can present it to the consumer in such a stunning way that it enhances the beauty of our jewellery and elevates the brand to a much higher level than before.

This alliance also allows us to offer top quality support to our stockists. As long-standing industry professionals, Gaventa can offer independent retailers the highest level of customer service and, for Valentina, the sales and marketing expertise that is behind every successful brand.

This expertise was displayed at this year’s Spring Fair, along with our beautiful new collections. The response was overwhelming, despite the snow! It was thrilling to see existing customers’ reactions to our newly launched collections and ‘new look’ branding. The compliments we received were amazing and it’s a pleasure to welcome our new stockists who came on board at the show. We look forward to a long and successful future with you all!

Speaking on behalf of H Gaventa Ltd, sales manager Mary Baxter says: “We are thrilled to be working with Penni and her team. The jewellery is

simply gorgeous and, as a company, Valentina shares our values for only the highest standard of customer service. We are very excited about the future.”

So, what’s next?Lots of new things! Murano glass is so incredibly versatile, we are able to explore and cater to many areas of the jewellery and gift market. With the support of Gaventa behind us, we can expand our design skills, respond to up-and-coming trends and, who knows, maybe create a few new ones of our own!

Penni is determined to make a difference and it is refreshing to talk to a business owner in current market conditions who is confident about the future, passionate about her product and determined to succeed.

The colour of success

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Naida Ally examines trends in silver jewellery, and looks at some

of the new collections that are currently available to stock

silver jewellery

fOCUS ON Despite a rise in popularity of other metals such as palladium and platinum, and prices which have remained high, silver has managed to maintain a firm standing in the jewellery market.

At the beginning of this year, the Silver Institute reported a 74 per cent rise in the average annual price, up from $20.19 (£12.81) per ounce to $35.12 (£22.28) per ounce. “Silver’s strong price performance last year owed much to the strength in investment demand, as well as growth in industrial demand, much of which is relatively price insensitive in the short term,” commented Michael DiRienzo, executive director of the Silver Institute. “Silver outperformed all precious metals in terms of increases of average annual prices; palladium posted a 39 per cent gain in 2011, while gold was up 28 per cent and platinum rose seven per cent last year over 2010’s figures.”

To maintain customer interest in silver despite the visibly higher price tags, jewellery designers and manufacturers are creating plenty of new and inspiring collections.

One such brand is Chrysalis, which forecasts a huge demand for stackable pendants that function as interchangeable necklaces, bracelets and earrings. Achieving a successful debut at Spring Fair, its Personalisation range features sterling silver chains varying

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in lengths, from 16 to 36 inches, adorned with semi-precious gemstones such as amazonite; tonal blue lace agate; soft, delicate shades of rose quartz; and uniquely shaped turquoise pendants with serene blue hues and extracts of invigorating green. The semi-precious pendants can be combined with the sterling silver pendants, or a selection of the silver initial tags. “For that perfect gift, opt for a rose detailed ‘Mum’ pendant, or a love, luck or friendship tag. The choice is endless!” explains director Andrea Gillard.

“The necklaces can be worn in layers in varying lengths with clusters of faceted gemstones to create an amazing statement piece. Or, for a more subtle look, choose the more delicate pieces or simply wear one of the interchangeable pendants as a necklace in its own right. Necklaces and bracelets can be created to hold memories and special moments. Each interchangeable piece that you create will be a completely individual piece of jewellery as no two necklaces will be identical, unless you want them to be,” she elaborates.

The gem drops and silver tags can also be added to Chrysalis bracelets to give a fresh new look. “Versatility and creativity are what Chrysalis has to offer you, and Personalisation is the next big thing and sure to be hot for spring/summer 2012,” Andrea adds.

Contemporary silver jewellery specialist 21st Century Silver has just launched around 30 new silver designs to

add to its sterling silver range. Founder Tony Greene says: “Now that silver prices appear to be stabilising somewhat, we have seen an increase in our silver sales over the last few months. As long as the design is attractive and original then silver jewellery will continue to thrive, especially as the price of gold jewellery is still out of most people’s reach.”

The company’s new designs “went down a storm at the recent Scotland Trade Show Spring,” and are all available now in the latest brochure. Alternatively, samples of the whole range can be viewed with one of its team of professional sales agents.

Also releasing new lines is UK supplier of silver jewellery Valencia Silver. Established in 1974, the company is renowned for offering an extensive silver collection and constantly sources new lines to keep up with the latest trends. 2012 is seeing the introduction of many new designs, with “something to suit all tastes,” including plain silver, stone-set and freshwater pearl jewellery, and various statement pieces.

The latest collection comprises a selection of handmade pieces, to include bangles, bracelets, earrings, necklaces, pendants and matching sets. Branded boxes, pouches, name plates and jewellery tags are also available, along with a wooden display. “Our experienced sales team covers the whole of the UK and orders are usually dispatched the same day for next day delivery where possible. Retailers can book an appointment through the office or with a sales agent directly,” advises Valencia Silver.

Pioneering unisex silver jewellery is Fable Trading Ltd, which is the sole distributor for the Buddha to Buddha range – “an outstanding, contemporary brand for the fashion conscious.” Now available for the first time in the UK, after being launched at this year’s Spring Fair, the designs are described as “silver jewellery at its biggest and boldest.”

The Dutch brand is known for its powerful, unisex, sterling silver bracelets. There are over 200 different styles of bracelets, rings, earrings and necklaces featured in the collection; each piece is individually handcrafted by artisans in the Indonesian island of Bali. Bracelets and necklaces boast signature Buddha to Buddha patented locks and strong branding. Selected pieces also feature semi-precious stones and leather and all are individually hallmarked.

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Launched in 2001, Espree offers its customers a premium range of silver jewellery with luxury packaging and presentation. Boasting over 250 affordably-priced designs, Espree describes its ranges as “striking the perfect balance between modern day elegance and timeless allure, giving the jewellery a broad appeal.”

The brand’s commercial potential has been “recognised across the industry,” and the “record number of new stockists it has taken on has been matched by high levels of repeat orders over the Christmas period and into 2012.” Espree believes that stockists benefit from the brand’s clear identity and the look of its packaging, but also from its flexible approach that allows retailers to fit the brand to their own store.

The company maintains its no-quibble two-year guarantee, and new retailers are offered a 90-day ‘Espree for Free’ trial, including stock up to the value of £350 together with a counter top display unit (if required).

Luxury personalised jewellery brand Chamilia is launching its new SoHo collection in celebration of the eponymous New York neighbourhood. SoHo, like its namesake, is vibrant and full of colour, incorporating new textures, shapes and designs. The beads within this urban, yet artistic collection comprise a mix of materials including sterling silver, Swarovski Elements, Italian Murano glass threaded with metal and crystals, and the new sterling silver mesh. 2012’s ‘technicolour trend’ is satisfied by the vibrant colour palette, including burnt orange, yellow, fuchsia, blue and red, which Chamilia describes as “contrast[ing] with the chrome and asphalt colours of the mesh beads to mirror the vibrancy and variety within this renowned Manhattan neighbourhood.”

The Jewellery Show saw Jo for Girls showcase its popular new designs. “Many people commented that Jo for Girls had the most varied collection of children’s jewellery they had seen,” says the company. The collection covers jewellery for christenings, first communions, bridesmaids and a ‘just because’ range. “With over 200 designs, there is something for everyone. A cute little bear with a pink heart, a cat with attitude, watches and… the Birthstone Angels, were a runaway success.”

Although Mayanna’s Baltic amber jewellery is often set in gold, which completes the amber with a warm, comforting appearance, its silver amber jewellery is still dominant. There is a vast selection of silver designs, which range from the exotically extravagant to the plain, clean-looking Scandinavian style. “Whatever the design of the setting, the silver and the amber must complement each other as perfectly as possible,” explains the company. “The amber provides the depth and richness of colour, and the silver setting must be impeccably designed, formed and finished. Together they make one beautiful adornment.”

The sterling silver jewellery range from German-based company Tezer comprises necklaces, bracelets, pendant earrings and rings. Described by Tezer as a “contemporary range of jewellery for the modern, discerning woman,” most pieces are also available in a 14 carat gold plate finish. Further information can be obtained from UK sales agent Sharon Acton.

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1) Chrysalis by Silver Willow: 01823 698 898 2) 21st Century Silver: 0208 339 3731 3) Valencia Silver: 01342 718 777 / 715 736 • 4) Buddha to Buddha: 0117 377 4214 5) Espree: 0121 355 2111 • 6) Chamilia: 0844 811 2142 7) Jo for Girls: 01887 820 760 • 8) Mayanna: 01494 524 124 9) Tezer: 07774 928 045 • 10) Sandia Silver: 07940 817 771

London-based Angelica Fuentes of Sandia Silver is pleased that her new designs for 2012 are selling well. “2011 was a difficult year for retailers and designers like me. Sales were slow and the price of silver kept going up. But this year everybody seems much more optimistic and my new designs are being well received,” she explains.

“I decided to keep working with sterling silver because I like to offer my customers a lasting quality that I don’t see in other materials. So I challenged myself to be creative, designing and finding new pieces using less silver but keeping the quality feel that customers expect from Sandia Silver.”

The Sandia Silver ‘Jewellery from the Heart’ range now includes simple silver bangles with an interlocking hammered or polished heart, as well as current best sellers like the ‘heart on a ring’. Angelica has also expanded her range of earrings to include different shapes and textures, creating a large variety of designs to choose from.

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Reading Michael Hoare’s balanced comment on the Mary Portas report on the high street has led me to

explore the fortunes of a variety of independent shops over the past month. I started with Branch on the Park (pictured), whose opening I reported in the summer of 2010.

Julia Cook, a graduate of Central Saint Martins, is a successful jewellery designer, and had lived near Victoria Park in east London for 16 years, always with the thought of opening a shop in the area. She came across empty premises in the perfect location, which she transformed into a workshop and elegant retail space – now a well established and thriving local jewellery shop.

Julia says: “In business it has been the best decision I have ever made – nearly two years on, the shop is a great success and seems to get better all the time. Our high street is more a crossroad of independent shops, cafés, restaurants and bars, which has still to reach its full potential, but is growing and attracting visitors as well as having intensely loyal local customers. This summer will be interesting as the Olympics site is only a short walk away and the footfall through our village will rise enormously.”

As well as her own jewellery, she sells the work of around eight other makers; the bestselling of which is

Galibardy – quirky, bold, fun and reasonably priced. Her own jewellery is the most popular – “I like to use beautiful stones, sparkling beads, lots of colour and decoration, with the feel of jewels made long ago, and made with my heart and soul.” Private commissions are the biggest part of the business, including recycling existing or antique jewellery, and giving it new life.

“I don’t feel threatened by internet shopping as what I have to offer is so different, and people want to touch and try on jewellery. Customers love seeing the tools and the jewellery-making in the workspace. I am in the process of setting up my own internet shop called ‘Blossoming Branch’ – a range from the shop selling as a brand in itself.

“I do see a bright future for a shop like mine; it has worked from day one, and gets better each day, and I will endeavour to put as much into it as I did the day it opened.” (www.branchonthepark.co.uk)

The Association of Contemporary Jewellery (ACJ) has organised a Diamond Jubilee Members Exhibition with 35 selected pieces specially created for the event. Each piece is an individual interpretation of the theme, made of precious or non-precious materials, and reflecting different aspects of royalist fervour. The exhibition opens on 12 March at the School of Jewellery, Birmingham, running until

This month Janet Fitch catches up with Julia Cook, designer

and proprietor of Branch on the Park, and shares a recent

fashion show discovery

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30 March, before moving to the new Goldsmiths’ Centre in London in June, and then the SHJ Gallery, Edinburgh, and North Glasgow College. (www.acj.org.uk)

Pictured are proposals for a brooch with portraits of Elizabeth II from 1952 and 2012, using steel, silver enamel and diamond dust, designed by Stephen Bottomley MPhil RCA, programme director for Jewellery and Silversmithing at the Edinburgh College of Art, School of Design; and a crown with flocked and sublimated elements by Zoe Robertson, course director BA (Hons) Jewellery and Silversmithing from the School of Jewellery, Birmingham City University.

And a footnote on watches – I just discovered a new watch, the Koralie Brasco Chrono (pictured below), at a fashion show and loved its individuality. It’s designed by two French street artists – Koralie and Supakitch – who live and work in Brooklyn, New York, in collaboration with the Swedish company TRIWA, whose aim is to promote attitude, individuality and colour in the traditional world of watches, while being serious about horology. Retail prices are from 99 to 219 euros (£83 to £184), so it’s affordable too. (www.triwa.com)

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A patriotic yearThe British Craft Trade Fair is preparing to open its doors once again, celebrating

design talent in what promises to be an important year for the nation

With the Olympic Games and the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee taking place this summer, there has never been a better time to be producing and buying British.

Margeret Bunn, BCTF organiser, says: “The consumer from home and abroad will be even more in love with the British brand this year; and the British Craft Trade Fair (BCTF), with its thousands of trend-setting products, is an Aladdin’s Cave for independent jewellers, as well as the perfect place to source bespoke exhibition pieces.”

Over 500 of the UK’s most creative artists and designers will grace the halls of the Great Yorkshire Showground, Harrogate, at this year’s BCTF, held from the 15 to 17 April, and here is a small selection of the jewellery you can expect to see…

Amanda CoxAmanda’s popular Lily Collection is perfect for brides to be. The 28-piece collection is available in silver or gold with a choice of white, peacock, pink or silver-grey pearls. There are rings, earrings, bangles and bracelets to choose from, as well as more unusual pieces such as a tiara and hairpins, and cufflinks and tie tacks for men.www.amandacoxjewellery.co.ukStand: 398

Jesa MarshallJesa’s beautifully dark, enchanting jewellery collections are based on folklore and fairytale, and spring 2012 marks the launch of her new collection. Inspired by the Russian folktale The Firebird, Jesa brings to life a beautiful and at times ominous world of wolves, forbidding forests and spectacular firebirds. Jesa will be exhibiting ‘Firebird’ alongside her ‘Enchanted’ collection and is listed on Design Edge, the BTCF online trade catalogue.www.jesamarshall.co.ukStand: 260

Maneggi – ‘The art of embellishment’Nikki Ainscow graduated from the University of Huddersfield with a BA (Hons) in Textile Craft. She specialised in embroidery and fabric manipulation techniques and set up an accessories company with the aim of providing an alternative to conventional jewellery, staying true to her textile roots. Her range of accessories concentrates on embellishment of the body, whether with jewellery or fabric, and through the use of manipulation and origami techniques she creates contemporary statement pieces.www.maneggi.co.ukStand: N36

Moxon and SimmEstablished in 1982, Moxon and Simm design and make high quality design jewellery. Each piece is unique and made by hand from design to finish, so production is in small runs. They are well known for their titanium jewellery, but they also work with other precious metals and stones.www.kingstreetworkshops.co.uk/moxonandsimmStand: 428

Angela Learoyd JewelleryAngela works in silver and uses a variety of techniques to create surface texture and embellishment. Manipulating silver by doming, folding, hammering and rolling allows her to produce three-dimensional pieces. Her jewellery usually incorporates semi-precious gemstones – particularly those with matt finishes and interesting markings and inclusions.www.angelalearoydjewellery.comStand: 306

Julia ThompsonJulia uses traditional fabrication techniques to create bespoke silver trinket boxes, lockets and unique pieces of precious art jewellery. Semi-precious and ethical, lab-grown gemstones are frequently set and enhanced by touches of 18 carat yellow gold, Julia’s signature satin patina and oxidised antique finish. Her memento-style exhibition pieces hide enchanting secret messages, which reflect a romantic and bygone age, but with a contemporary, ornate, quirky and increasingly iconic twist.www.juliathompson.co.ukStand: 406

hadasartHadas Nassbaum makes her jewellery using polymer clay, which is a man-made acrylic product that is extremely durable, waterproof and fade resistant. She creates her jewellery using millefiori technique, which traditionally is used to produce distinctive patterns on glassware, but is also extremely effective when applied to polymer clay.www.hadasart.co.ukStand: 353A

Melissa JamesMelissa started designing jewellery eight years ago. She has travelled extensively and has been inspired along the way by the bold use of colour seen in remote parts of the world, as well as by the soft balance found in nature.www.melissajamesjewellery.comStand: 210

Alex Clamp JewelleryAlex produces carefully handcrafted statement and everyday pieces of jewellery to a high standard. She focuses on combining hand techniques with contemporary, innovative design. Alex is inspired by Art Nouveau and Art Deco styling, as well as botany and nature. She works with silver and gold and her pieces are often complemented by pearls and precious stones.www.alexclamp.comStand: 411

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Abby MosseriAbby graduated from St Martins College London in 1999 and is now a working jeweller based in Brighton. She works in silver, gold and high quality gemstones. Her collections are luxurious and desirable and the combination of her traditional training in Hatton Garden followed by a Jewellery Design BA makes her work beautifully crafted and super stylish.www.abbymosseri.co.ukStand: 427

Justin DuanceJustin’s gold and silver contemporary silver is deeply influenced by the surrounding countryside and ocean near his home in Cornwall. His clever combination of precious metals and wood means that the piece will change over time with wear, making each piece entirely unique and personal to the wearer.www.justind.co.ukStand: 410

To receive your free invitation to this event, visit the british Craft Trade fair website at www.bctf.co.uk to register. Car parking is free at the venue and it is only a few moments away from the exhibition hall, and there is also a complimentary courtesy car service from Harrogate railway station and leeds bradford Airport.

Suzie horanSuzie’s exquisite and contemporary designs in precious metals are inspired by life on the coast.www.suziehoran.comStand: 417

hazel Atkinson Jewellery LLPHandmade in Nottingham, Hazel Atkinson Jewellery continues to grow in popularity, and is now selling to over 200 independent outlets. Hazel utilises the versatile qualities of dyed, anodised aluminium, with a combination of bright colours, great designs and good workmanship.www.hazelatkinsonjewellery.co.ukStand: 112

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Phoenix Jewellery is pleased to be supporting the fantastic work of Children’s Hospice South West, with a range of specially designed children’s charms. Each charm is enamelled in bright colours and with a trigger catch that can be attached either to the adjustable 6.5 inch bracelet or to a neckchain. Phoenix Jewellery has also created vibrant packaging to complement the range, which it says should appeal to the younger consumer. One pound for every charm and bracelet sold will be donated to the charity.Information: www.phoenix-jewellery.com

All the beauty of genuine Murano glass is enhanced by the technique of subtle frosting, lending a special depth to the soft blues and lilacs of the Jodie bracelet (pictured). The Murano beads are interspersed with tiny sterling silver balls and clear blue Swarovski crystals. One of the many new designs in the Valentina 2012 collections, this design is available in a choice of four colourways and each piece has an adjustable sterling silver chain decorated with a tiny Valentina daisy charm. Each piece of Valentina jewellery is supplied with an organza pouch, nestling in a cream presentation box.Information: 01707 654 820 or [email protected]

AML is circulating its fifth edition brochure, which is filled with over 60 new wedding bands, along with a unique range that meets the minimum of price points. Its already vast range has the flexibility of offering different widths, colours and carats, including platinum and palladium. The six month credit facility is still available, along with attractive discounts. AML is open six days a week offering advice, quotes, delivery and much more.Information: 01270 874 011

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The 345Wrap collection mixes leather with crystal and cord with pearls, and with a sprinkling of semi-precious stones. “Choose your length and simply wrap and wind it around your wrist; fold it, then bind it with the delicate floral catch, and off you go!” says the Balagan Group. Available in a selection of lengths, the five-wrap styles can be worn as a necklace or even a belt. A great summer accessory, the 345Wrap is inspired by the wrap bracelet trend started in America by Chan Luu.Information: 0845 260 0925, [email protected] or www.balagan.co.uk

Gift Time of Reading has produced a limited edition State Coach Clock to celebrate the 2012 Diamond Jubilee. Presented on a piano finished wooden plinth, the clock, with intricate gold and chrome plating, is supplied with a commemorative certificate of authenticity showing the unique serial number of the clock and a polished plate engraved with the details of this special occasion for the Queen – only the second Diamond Jubilee in history!Information: 0118 947 1405

There was “lots of interest and excitement garnered at the Jewellery Show,” comments Lucet Mundi. The chic lines of the stand “made a bold statement of what our name delivers – constantly moving forward while upholding distinction and class in design and quality.” The company reported that “successful networking has resulted in 40 prestigious new connections, in addition to strong interest from varied genres. Our promising start has inspired us to continue to uphold our high standard, thereby ensuring satisfaction to all our valued clientele.”Information: 0208 211 7286, [email protected] or www.lucetmundi.com

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Tresor Paris made its debut at this season’s London Fashion Week in a spectacular show at Somerset House, teaming up with renowned designer Corrie Nielsen, who has managed to incorporate and capture the sparkle and atmosphere of its iconic bracelets in her own A/W 2012 collection. Meanwhile, at the Birmingham Spring Fair, an excited audience was introduced to the new Saturn Collection, along with many new additions to the range of jewellery. “The audience’s reaction said it all,” the brand enthused. “Successful new ranges launched, keeping Tresor Paris leaders in their field.”Information: www.tresorparis.com

February saw the arrival of Morplan’s first main catalogue dedicated to general retailers, featuring over 500 new products including a wide range of jewellery display props, carrier bags and showcases. The launch coincided with the long-awaited rebranding of its sister company, Retif UK, which offers a similar range to Morplan but is more focused on seasonal displays and operates primarily through three regional stores – Bristol, Enfield and Glasgow. In addition to enjoying a wider range of products, Retif customers will be able to shop online – a facility unavailable on its existing system. If you’d like a copy of either of the new catalogues, see the information below. Delivery is free on orders over £85 (excluding VAT) within mainland UK, and credit is available subject to status.Information: 0800 451 122 or www.morplan.com

Midhaven’s Tribal Steel range is growing fast. Choose from over 70 new styles in 100 per cent stainless steel or leather and steel, and in bracelets, bangles and necklets, ready for immediate delivery and with a free point of sale with orders over £200. Contact Alison and Allison for the new catalogue.Information: 01299 851 513 or www.midhavensilver.com

With “possibly the largest selection of clasps in the UK,” Palmers Jewellery offers clasps in silver, silver gilt and gold. At present, the magnetic ball clasps (produced in a polished or frosted finish) are available from 6mm to 14mm, and are proving to be very popular with customers. The Bohemian range, set with pearls and precious or semi-precious stones, offers a more traditional design, with clusters in one, two and three rows. Customers are afforded the flexibility to select the stones of their choice, and the range is produced and hand-finished in the UK.Information: 01277 654 187, [email protected] or www.palmersjewellery.co.uk

SElliNG52

In my previous article, I noted that there are four phases to a successful sales presentation. I call the phases the ‘circle of the sale’, and it

encompasses:1. Initial contact2. The needs assessment3. The demonstration4. Closing the sale and adding-on.

As I stated, the process is called the circle of the sale because, just as with a ring, there is no predetermined beginning and end. The salesperson is not the one who dictates the process, and cannot afford to assume that he or she should begin at the initial contact stage with every customer. In other words, it is simply unrealistic to assume that each and every customer is going to follow the script, as the salesperson believes it should be written; every customer and opportunity is different. If the customer wants to look at jewellery immediately, then start with the demonstration stage; or if the customer asks questions up front, we are already in the needs assessment process. Therefore, it is the customer who dictates the sales process and the salesperson must adapt to every different situation. This article will be devoted to the ‘initial contact’ phase of the sale.

Remember, the goal of every sales presentation is not only to make a sale,

but also to make a personal trade, repeat and/or referral customer with every opportunity. In addition, in order to maximise the opportunity a salesperson must sell the store, attempt to bump-up the sale, and add on. Only through completing each phase of the selling process can and will a salesperson maximise each and every opportunity.

Initial contactInitial contact covers all of the different aspects of making contact with your prospects and creating a selling relationship. In order to have a selling relationship, a few things need to happen: firstly, you have to eliminate any fear your prospects have of salespeople; secondly, you have to let them know you’re a real person and not just another salesperson trying to empty their wallet; and thirdly, you need to start developing a key element of the selling process, which is trust.

Therefore, you have three main goals to accomplish in the initial contact phase:1. Eliminate their fear;2. Create a person-to-person relationship;3. Start building trust.

These goals lead to a few different questions:

A. Why are people fearful of salespeople?There are many reasons why customers are fearful of salespeople, and especially jewellery salespeople. They may fear they will spend more money than they intended to spend; they have a pre-conceived notion that salespeople are all pushy and aggressive; the media has created a public perception of jewellery stores as being dishonest; or it might be

that the customer is making a life changing decision through getting engaged and/or married. Jewellery stores traditionally have a reputation of being expensive and stuffy places to shop, and in many cases the public are lacking product knowledge to make an informed decision. All this, plus more, can lead to a tremendous amount of fear in shopping for and buying jewellery.

B. Why must you create a person-to-person relationship?In order to develop a relationship that will cause the customer to come back to the store repeatedly for all their jewellery purchases or gift giving occasions, a personal relationship must be developed. The majority of people are comfortable shopping and buying from their ‘friend in the business’. Furthermore, I believe that the majority of people are actually looking for a friend in each and every given industry; they just don’t realise it. When a customer is dealing with his or her friend in the business, money may not be as much of an issue as may be believed.

C. Why is ‘trust’ essential in a buy/sell relationship?I believe in any buy/sell relationship trust is the essential element that may make the difference between a sale being made and a sale being lost. This is especially true when it comes to luxury items, such as jewellery. Customers need to trust the company and the salesperson they are dealing with; they need to know that they are making their selection from a reputable company, which stands behind the products that it sells and will be there for the customer should any problem or situation arise.

forging relationships

Following on from his introduction of the ‘circle of the sale’ concept last month, Brad Huisken of IAS

Training focuses on step one – initial contact

When a customer is dealing with his or her

‘ fr iend in the business ’ , money may not be

as much of an issue as may be believed

Therefore, it is up to the salesperson to let the customer know that he or she is not just dealing with a nameless, faceless entity, but a real, live human being who cares about the happiness and satisfaction of customers, and of the end user in a gift situation.

Historically there are two main types of initial contact found in all types of selling situations. The two types of initial contact are via the telephone and walk-in initial contact. While in the jewellery industry a salesperson should be contacting people via the telephone, this article will only deal with the primary situation that jewellery salespeople deal with: face-to-face contact or a walk-in customer.

Walk-in initial contactWhen customers walk into stores, they may see a multitude of things going on. In some stores, the salespeople

actually ignore customers, and in other stores there may be no one to help the customers. On occasion, you may see the sales staff eating a snack or a meal at the display cases. In other stores, the salespeople may be gathered around the counter carrying on personal conversations and not paying any attention to the customers. In some stores, I have seen salespeople doing their homework on the display counters, or conducting personal conversations on the telephone. I have even seen a store where the staff members were playing a game of basketball using waste paper baskets as hoops. None of these scenarios are conducive to making sales.

It is vital, in a jewellery store or showroom situation, that you always look busy. In a jewellery store, there is always something a salesperson could and should be doing, whether

it be cleaning, redoing a display, writing thank you notes, restocking or contacting customers. When a customer approaches a salesperson, and the salesperson is busy, the natural fear and resistance that a customer has tends to evaporate, or at the very least be less of a fear factor. But keep in mind that when a customer approaches and you are busy doing something else, nothing is more important than the customer, so immediately drop whatever you were doing and give the customer your undivided attention.

Everyone should know by now that the worn-out phrase of “Can I help you?” or any of the numerous variations of this line, will get you an “I’m just looking” response, and they certainly won’t start any type of conversation. Next month look out for more on initial contact…

Author, trainer, consultant and speaker brad Huisken is president of iAS Training. He authored the book and his new book He developed the PmSA relationship Selling Program, the PSmC Professional Sales management Course,

the Train the Trainer Course, the Mystery Shoppers Kit, and the Weekly Sales Training Meeting series, along with aptitude tests and proficiency exams for new hires, current sales staff and sales managers. He and his staff of trained professionals also conduct in-house training and consulting all over the world on an ongoing basis. in addition he publishes a free weekly newsletter called Sales Insight. For a free subscription or more information on IAS Training, contact IAS Training on 001 303 936 9353,

or

SElliNG 53

For the past 12 months or so, selling jewellery online has been all about content: does the website have a blog; does it have the right images; and is it selling the right products

with accurate descriptions? And this has been the case throughout ecommerce, however this year the focus is going to shift towards making the journey from homepage to purchase much more user-friendly, by creating an engaging online brand experience for the visitors.

A recently published ForeSee Online Retail Satisfaction Index, which is an annual survey into consumer attitudes to the top 100 etailers, backs this up: “Apple defies conventional wisdom, because it achieves the highest customer satisfaction despite scoring below its rivals on perceptions of prices,” it reveals. “However, Apple scores much higher than the others in website functionality, which is the most important driver of customer satisfaction for all three websites.”

This clearly shows that it’s not good deals or cheap prices that affect people’s web experience, but the quality of the ebranding. Ecommerce has improved across the internet, and jewellery retailers have upped their game, with many now presenting the right content and imagery.

Take, for example, Tiffany & Co’s website www.tiffany.co.uk, which provides a classic minimalist style suited to its brand, as well as presenting a modern ecommerce site with all the trimmings. Consumers now expect this as a minimum requirement, and as they become

more accustomed to shopping online, they are demanding greater usability and an all-round better buying experience.

Without any doubt the value of your ebrand is heavily influenced by the online customer experience your website is delivering. As price leadership is difficult to achieve in the jewellery sector, which is hugely competitive, focusing on usability and the buying experience is crucial to gaining competitive advantage. So what do you need to do to ensure that your online experience matches your customers’ expectations?

First, recognise that it’s not just about the

Experiencecounts

bUSiNESS54

Turning a website visitor into a customer is now all about the online journey, says Mathias Duda, head of UK operations at FACT-Finder.com

design of your website. Many jewellery sites look fantastic, as it’s the nature of the industry to present the product well. However, if yours lacks functionality and is hard to navigate around, then this is going to reflect negatively on consumers’ experience of your brand online.

A good example of a site that adheres to this is www.ernestjones.co.uk. It has a strong, well-presented homepage, displaying the latest products and seasonal offers. Its main image currently streams a slideshow of four of its latest product/brands, with the option to visit each one directly, and, for the Chamilia bracelet, viewers are offered the chance to access a function on the site where they can design their own bracelet. The website is also easy to navigate and each page is categorised clearly, with each section presenting a drop-down window offering customers the opportunity to narrow down their search. For example, under Diamond Jewellery, the drop-down suggests you can search ‘by category’, ‘by recipient’ or by occasion with its ‘Inspire Me’ range.

Ease of use and effective navigation are good starting points. When people visit your site, they need to be able to find what they want quickly and easily. Alternatively, if you are encouraging them to browse, you need to ensure that your on-site navigation is intuitive, and offers people the ability to narrow down what they are looking for.

For example, few people are going to work their way through 20 pages of necklaces, so faceted navigation is imperative. This allows online shoppers to filter their search by different attributes, such as brand, colour, style, size or price range. Even if people don’t buy in the first place, they will remember how good or bad the level of service was – exactly as they would in the real world.

Another way to ensure that visitors can find the right products is through your site’s search function – particularly if you stock a lot of different products, which many jewellery retailers do. Another study, this time by Marketing Sherpa, has revealed that people who use search are three times more likely to go on to purchase than others, so evidently this is an important area to get right.

The key question to ask is does your on-site search understand customer needs like a

salesperson? Error tolerance within the search function can be crucial here. For example, our research in the footwear sector shows that there are around 80 common misspellings of the word Birkenstock. There are arguably more complex brand names in jewellery, so any search program needs to be able to handle these types of errors, while still generating the correct results.

We have also conducted extensive research into how search results are presented. The two most popular are in a list view or in a grid view. For jewellery etailing, where products generally require big picture displays, the grid view works best. For the best results, present an odd number of items in the grid, say five, with the most popular or relevant result displayed in the centre, as the eye will automatically be drawn there. This is a subtle, but effective way of enhancing your visitors’ online experience. As a jewellery retailer, you probably already have the relevant data to hand to help you achieve this, as you will be able to track which items sell more within certain categories and then weight them accordingly within their search function.

Similarly, with product recommendations, when previous customers bought a specific bracelet and then went on to buy a particular set of earrings, for example, then this can then be presented as a recommendation to future customers buying the same bracelet.

Essentially, the key to keeping browsers engaged and to converting them into customers is relevance – if people feel they are not getting what they want, then they will just go and shop elsewhere. And both search and navigation play a key role in delivering this relevance to the visitor. From this perspective, they are a critical part of any jewellery retailer’s ebranding.

bUSiNESS 55

“It ’s not good deals or cheap prices that affect people’s

web experience, but the quality of the ebranding”

dATA56

PrICES • FIGUrES • OUTLOOK

Diamond prices

Weight G/VVS G/SI J/VVS J/SI J/I1

0.05 Carat 1,779 978 1,227 889 783

0.10 Carat 1,708 1,090 1,647 976 732

0.25 Carat 2,759 1,525 2,306 1,296 884

0.50 Carat 7,516 3,390 4,790 2,948 2,505

0.75 Carat 9,249 5,549 6,048 4,127 3,273

1.00 Carat 16,328 8,644 10,891 6,998 4,528The table above has been prepared by SafeGuard and is an average of the retail selling prices of round brilliant cut diamonds per carat including an average retail markup and VAT. There is no allowance for the mount but the prices have been taken from mounted goods prices. The table is also compared with International diamond prices for additional accuracy.

Compiled at 1st February 2012 /Dollar Exchange rate 1.5742

retail sales volume: December 2011Compared to December 2010, in December 2011 all retail sales volumes increased by 2.6 per cent, and prices in-store were estimated to have increased by 2.4 per cent. Compared to November 2011, retail sales volumes in December 2011 increased by 0.6 per cent.With regard to the monthly all retail sales value and volume index numbers for the December trading periods in the years 2006 to 2011, the volume series was particularly flat, with the value series increasing from 2009. This was reportedly due to the estimated price increases. The proportion of annual retail spending in December 2011 in both the food and non-food sectors was higher than at any other time of the year. However, the proportion of annual retail spending in the non-food sector was higher than the food sector.During 2011, the non-store retailing sector had the highest proportion of retail spending, accounting for 11.4 per cent. In December this fell to 11.2 per cent. A November peak can also be found in internet retail sales statistics, which cover internet sales by all retailers and show that the proportion of sales made via the internet was 11.5 per cent in November and 10.9 per cent in December. Source: ONS

Metal Prices £/unit Dec 11 Jan 12 Feb 12 % Change

Sterling Silver £/Kg 619.92 564.70 634.18 Plus 12%

Gold £/g 35.65 33.67 35.24 Plus 5%

Palladium £/g 13.33 13.35 14.21 Plus 6%

Platinum £/g 31.52 29.86 33.21 Plus 11%

Rhodium £/g 32.92 28.56 30.81 Plus 8%

Iridium £/g 22.33 22.64 22.19 Plus 2%

Ruthenium £/g 2.43 2.30 2.56 Plus 11%

Scrap Metal £/unit Dec 11 Jan 12 Feb 12 % Change

Sterling Silver Scrap £/Kg 582.06 530.21 595.44 Plus 12%

9ct Gold Scrap £/g 12.90 12.18 12.75 Plus 5%




Platinum (95%) Scrap £/g 25.45 24.11 26.81 Plus 11%Data supplied courtesy of Cookson Precious Metals. www.cooksongold.comAll prices shown on this page enjoy indicative status only. Jewellery Focus and Cookson Precious Metals accepts no responsibility for their accuracy or for any use to which they may be put

Hallmark figures - Jan 2012

Month Jan 11 Month Jan 12 Variance %

Silver 999 399 997 598 149.9958 338 342 4 1.2925 725,319 355,253 -370,066 -51.0800 0 5 5 100.0

726,056 356,597 -369,459 -50.9

Gold 999 157 200 43 27.4990 11 7 -4 -36.4916 26,995 25,504 -1,491 -5.5750 61,870 51,227 -10,643 -17.2585 33,935 6,352 -27,583 -81.3375 248,878 187,320 -61,558 -24.7

371,846 270,610 -101,236 -27.2

Platinum

999 0 8 8 100950 19,058 18,920 -138 -0.7900 3 3 0 0850 2 1 -1 -50

19,063 18,932 -131 -0.7

Palladium 999 - 0 0 0950 7,640 7,261 -379 -5500 409 380 -29 -7.1

8,049 7,641 -408 -5.1

Total 1,125,014 653,780 -471,234 -41.9

Stay informed...

Visit for daily metal prices

The downward trend in the number of items submitted for hallmarking to the four UK assay offices continued throughout January, with the total number of articles hallmarked down 41.9 per cent on the same month last year. Silver continues to suffer the brunt of the downturn with a 50 per cent reduction in the number of sterling silver articles hallmarked by the assay offices. Gold articles were down 27.7 per cent, while platinum was flat at - 0.7 per cent and palladium down 5.1 per cent.

Source: Birmingham Assay Office

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onthevoice highstreetJANE BARKER of

Elizabeth Rose Jewellery, Norwich

Elizabeth Rose opened in 2006, although you’ve personally worked in jewellery retail for 20 years. How did you first get into the trade?By accident really. My family background is quite artistic – authors, artists and musicians – but a friend needed someone to run one of her jewellery shops so I offered, and 20 years later I took over both of her shops and I haven’t looked back since.

How do you set yourself apart from other jewellers? We set ourselves apart from other jewellers by not having a high pressure sales technique. We offer good advice and try to ask what the customer wants, rather than telling them what they should have. And we never judge a book by its cover!

What makes Elizabeth Rose special?We have a very good name for our design service and bespoke commissions. We also are very, very competitive when it comes to our gemstone prices.

You offer a bespoke wedding ring design service – is this an important part of your business? How has the wedding and engagement jewellery market been faring over recent months?Yes, we offer a bespoke wedding ring design service, which is very popular with brides-to-be. It is an important part of the business as it’s so personal. Each one is different and we like to give that one-on-one service. The wedding ring and engagement jewellery market is still very strong, if not stronger! I think people see that two incomes are better than one coming into a household in a recession, so rather than have a long engagement they are not waiting so long.

yOUr viEWS66

What is selling well at the moment?My certified diamond single stones, three stones and eternity rings sell extremely well, plus we can make any ring to any price. Also the Tresor Paris range is selling like hot cakes. We’ve stocked it since it began several years ago.

Do you have a favourite jewellery designer or collection?Anything by Harry Winston or Cartier. I also adore Katie Rowland collections.

Although you have a company website, you don’t currently sell online. Is this something you’re considering for the future? What effect has the rise of ecommerce had on jewellery retailers?Yes we do have a plan to sell online in the near future; we need to adapt in that way as online sales are a threat,

but they just make us work that much harder. I believe very much that people want to see and touch what they are buying, so they still like shops!

Who works alongside you?A very loyal and hardworking small team! My fab four!

What are your plans for the future?The future is to carry on doing what we do best – a few tweaks here and there to make sure we are up-to-date, but most of all keeping our customers happy and the prices right.

jewellery focus march 2012

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