kiwi fruit production guide

ANR-1084

A L A B A M A A & M A N D A U B U R N U N I V E R S I T I E S

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KiwifruitProduction Guide

T he kiwifruit is in the genus Actinidia, whichcontains over 50 species. There are onlyabout three species, however, that are ofpopular interest for fruit production cultiva-tion. The kiwifruit is a large, woody, deciduousvine native to China. Geographically, variousspecies are distributed from Siberia to SoutheastAsia through China and Japan. Seeds from Chinawere taken to New Zealand and planted in 1906.Commercial planting began in California in the late1960s.

The old name for this fruit was Chinese goose-berry. In order to promote its sale, it was renamedkiwifruit by a United States importer because of itsbrownish color and hairy appearance resemblingthe flightless kiwi bird from New Zealand. Theshortened version of kiwi has also been used, butin 1974 the name kiwifruit became the internation-ally accepted name.

Fuzzy KiwifruitThe most commercially important species is

Actinidia deliciosa, the fuzzy kiwifruit. Since ki-wifruit is a dioecious plant (produces male and fe-male flowers on separate vines), a male and a fe-male vine are required for fruit production. Plants(varieties) of both sexes are essential for fruit pro-duction, and they must flower at the same time toensure pollination. Male vines are usually spacedthroughout the vineyard in a number of designs inwhich the male-female ratio varies from 1:6 to 1:10.In a commercial kiwifruit vineyard, one male vineis generally planted to serve as a pollenizer foreight female vines.

Kiwifruit are wind- and insect-pollinated.Commercial kiwifruit growers place three to fivebeehives per acre in their vineyards during flower-ing to ensure good fruit set. Female kiwifruit flow-ers are not attractive to bees due to their lack ofnectaries. Fortunately, however, in their search forpollen from the male flowers, the bees inadvertent-ly enter and pollinate the female flowers. The ulti-mate size of a fruit depends both on good growingconditions and on the number of seeds that havebeen fertilized.

The fuzzy kiwifruit is really a subtropical plantand will not tolerate temperatures much lower than10 degrees F. The long growing season required forfruit to mature can also limit production. A frost-free period of at least 225 days is required for ade-quate ripening. Winter damage most commonly oc-curs on the trunks, so protective insulating wrapsmay be useful for cold protection. Additionally, inwarm climates, this species requires around 600hours of winter chilling (below 45 degrees F) forsufficient bud break and 850 to 1,100 hours ofchilling for maximum flowering.

There are a number of commercially availablefemale (fruit-producing) varieties, of whichHayward has dominated the industry for manyyears. The most commonly named male varietiesare Matua and Tomuri.

Kiwifruit are very similar to grapevines in theirgeneral growth and fruiting habit as well as theirtraining and trellising requirements. It takes any-where from 2 to 8 years before kiwifruit vines willproduce flower buds. Fruit of this species requireabout 25 weeks from flowering to ripen. Fruit typi-cally range in size from 40 to 90 grams (1.5 to 3.2ounces) and can be picked shortly after the first fallfrost, kept in cool storage, and allowed to ripennaturally over time. Fuzzy kiwifruit will not ripenon the vine but will slowly ripen in a refrigerator inabout 4 weeks. Fruit can be stored from 4 to 6months at 32 degrees F if protected from dehydra-tion at 90 to 95 percent relative humidity. Fruit willripen at room temperature when removed fromcold storage. Ripening can be hastened by ethylenetreatment. This can be accomplished at home byplacing kiwifruit in a plastic bag with an apple forat least 2 or 3 days. Check the fruit periodically,and begin using them as they ripen.

2 Alabama Cooperative Extension System

Cold Hardy KiwifruitActinidia arguta and Actinidia kolomikta are

both under the broad category of cold hardy ki-wifruit. A. arguta tolerates temperatures to 25 de-grees F, and A. kolomikta to 40 degrees F. Bothspecies perform well in partial shade and may actu-ally prefer 20 to 50 percent shade. Yield per plantvaries with species and variety. Hayward (A. deli-ciosa) yields from 25 to 200 pounds per plant; A.arguta yields from 50 to 100 pounds per plant.

Cold hardy kiwifruit are also distinguished fromthe fuzzy type by their smooth skins and muchsmaller fruit. A. arguta fruit size is in the range of 5to 18 grams (90 to 25 fruit per pound), and fruit ofA. kolomikta are even smaller. Once again, thereare a good number of varieties available. Probablythe most popular is Ananasnaya, which is com-monly called Anna. With A. kolomikta, there isless acceptance of a winner for most popular vari-ety, but the name Arctic Beauty appears quite fre-quently. As with the A. deliciosa, all of these needa male plant to provide pollen. The one exceptionis the self-fertile variety Issai, which tends to havesmall fruit (approximately 5 grams) and relativelylow vine vigor.

Site Selection andEstablishment

Kiwifruit vines will grow on a wide range ofsoils, from a sandy loam to a clay loam, as long asdrainage is good. Although vines grow in soil withpH between 6.0 and 8.0, they do best in a deep,well-drained silt loam with a neutral pH (about7.0). Plants will not tolerate heavy, poorly drainedsoils. When grown in sandy soils, they are suscepti-ble to root-knot nematodes.

When selecting a site for planting kiwifruitvines, consider air drainage, wind, and water, mini-mum winter temperatures, and number of hours ofchilling expected. As with other fruit crops, it isbest to avoid low-lying frost pockets. Plants areparticularly susceptible to winter injury during theirfirst 3 years. Trunk wraps of foam pipe insulationor fiberglass attic insulation wrapped with plasticcan be used to keep vines dry to prevent trunkinjury.

High winds can break canes, particularly whenthey are tender and growing vigorously in thespring. Wind also causes scarring of fruit wherethey rub against the canes. In New Zealand, virtual-ly all kiwifruit vineyards are planted with wind-breaks. In windy regions, plant a windbreak, orplant on the side of a building or fence where thevines will be protected from wind.

Plant kiwifruit vines as you would fruit trees.However, since the kiwifruits root system is small-er, decrease the planting hole depth to keep thesoil line at the same level as it was in the nursery.Where possible, the home gardener would benefitfrom purchasing containerized plants.

Protect newly planted kiwifruit vines from des-iccation by wind or very hot sun by providingshade. Kiwifruit vines should be considered tenderand drought-sensitive until they are wellestablished.

IrrigationKiwifruit vines require a great deal of water. In

hot summer weather, the vines large leaves tran-spire water rapidly. In summer, newly plantedvines in average soils should be watered deeplyabout once a week. Overhead sprinklers are oftenused in commercial kiwifruit vineyards for frostprotection as well as irrigation (sprinkler headsshould be about 3 feet above the training wire).Drip irrigation, however, makes more efficient useof water.

FertilizationNitrogen is the nutrient most commonly defi-

cient in soils. However, do not use any fertilizers atplanting time. After vines have several inches ofnew growth, feed them with chemical fertilizers orwell-decomposed manures. If chemical fertilizersare used, use 2 ounces of actual nitrogen per plantin January, April, and June of the second year (1year after planting). In the third year, apply 4 to 8ounces of actual nitrogen per plant during thesame months. If manures are used, apply themonce a year in early spring. Whether manures orchemical fertilizers are used, gradually increase theamounts applied each year until at maturity 1 to112pounds of actual nitrogen per vine per year is ap-plied (10 pounds of 15-0-0 fertilizer supplies 112pounds of actual nitrogen). To avoid vigorous latesummer growth and to allow the plants to accli-mate for maximum winter hardiness, do notfertilize young plants after July.

Insects and DiseasesCompared to other fruit types, kiwifruit has few

insect pests. European red mite can build up in latesummer in hot, dry areas. Scale insects and leafrollers can also be pests. Leaf diseases may affectplants some years, and fungicide sprays may beuseful in eliminating them.

Kiwifruit Production Guide 3

Kiwifruit vines are susceptible to oak root fun-gus, crown gall, and crown and root rots(Phytophthora sp.). Although crown and root rotscan be discouraged by careful watering (by allow-ing no standing water in vineyards), the best wayto deal with oak root fungus is to not plant ki-wifruit vines in infested soil. Root-knot nematode is a serious pest of kiwifruit; therefore, fumigateinfested soils before planting.

Trellis SystemsUnder cultivation, a kiwifruit vine is incapable

of supporting the weight of itself and its fruit. Itmust, therefore, be supplied with some form ofstructural support. Either a T-bar or hitching posttrellis is recommended because each supplies alarge fruiting area, provides easy access to the fruit,and requires a minimum investment in materials.

The T-bar usually consists of an 8- to 10-footwooden post (4- by 4-inch minimum thickness andpressure-treated with preservatives), firmly set (atleast 212 feet deep) in the ground or concrete, witha 6-foot-long, 2- by 4-inch cross bar about 6 feetfrom the ground. A third wooden piece is oftenadded as a brace between T-bars, which arespaced 15 feet apart. Pulled, 8- to 10-gauge galva-nized wires are strung between T-bars and arepulled taut. Attach the wires to a very sturdy endpost or anchor them firmly to the ground or abuilding. Place T-bars no closer than 2 feet fromthe vines. The center wire will support the maincordons, and the outer wires will support the fruit-ing laterals as described below. The following illus-trations show a kiwifruit vine being trained to a T-bar trellis.

A hitching post is basically the same as a T-barexcept that a greater structural support is providedby a post at either end of the cross bar instead of asingle post in the middle. A T-bar or hitching postsystem can be converted to a pergola system, inwhich the vines are trained to a solid, overheadlayer covering the entire vineyard (see Figure 5).To make this conversion, string additional wires,spaced about 30 inches apart, perpendicular to thewires of the existing T-bar or hitching post system.

TrainingThe first step in establishing any kiwifruit vine

pruning system is to develop a framework of per-manent cordons. The number and location of thesecordons will vary with the training and pruning sys-tem to be used. Training kiwifruit vines to a T-baror hitching post and pruning them using the fruit-ing lateral method are recommended. Cordon train-ing on a T-bar trellis is illustrated in Figures 1through 4.

Once permanent cordons are established, allowtemporary fruiting laterals to develop every 24 to30 inches along these cordons. This training systemcan be maintained and productive for 60 years ormore if the vines are pruned to provide a constantturnover of fruiting laterals. The fruiting lateral sys-tem of pruning is illustrated in Figures 6 through 8.

Male kiwifruit vines can be trained and prunedin the same manner as female vines; however,since they produce no fruit, male vines are oftenpruned more severely than female vines are so thatthey will occupy less space. Male vines also receivetheir major pruning after bloom rather than in thedormant season. This delayed pruning allows malevines to retain maximum flowering wood for springpollination. During the dormant season, prune onlydead or declining wood from the male vines.Shortly after bloom, head back the cordons toabout 4 to 6 feet on either side of the main trunk,and thin out one-third to one-half of the floweringlaterals. This will promote growth of abundant newlaterals for next years bloom.

At planting time, place a temporary stake that isas high as the wire next to the vine (Figure 1). Asthe vine grows, tie it loosely to the stake, andcheck it often during the first year to see that itdoesnt wind around the stake.

Figure 1. T-bartrellis system withthe temporary stakenext to the vine


During the first growing season, allow a singletrunk to grow straight up (Figure 2). After the trunkis a few inches above the wire to which cordonswill be trained, cut it to 3 to 6 inches below thewire. Cutting below the wire allows cordons togrow from the cut to the wire at a 45-degree angle.The resulting Y-shaped crotch is structurallystronger than the 90-degree angles that would re-sult from cutting the trunk level with the wire.Now, and during all subsequent growing seasons,remove all side growth below the cordons in orderto direct the vines energy into the trunk and cor-dons. While the vine is young, particularly in veryhot regions, some of this side growth can be onlynipped back and left to provide shade and nourish-ment for the vine during the growing season. Theseshoots should be removed, however, by the follow-ing dormant pruning.

During the first dormant season, head the cor-dons back to about 3 feet from the trunk. (Cut thecordons to an upward-facing bud for vigorous cor-don extension growth during the next growing sea-son.) Heading the cordons, like pinching a house-plant to make it bushy, will force laterals to growduring the upcoming growing season.

If the main trunk doesnt grow to the wire inthe first growing season, it is recommended to cutthe trunk back to 4 to 8 buds from the ground dur-ing the first dormant season. Although this will settraining back a season, the more vigorous growthfrom such a shortened vine will ultimately form astronger cordon system.

During the second growing season, temporarylateral branches, which will bear fruit for 2 to 3years, will grow vigorously from the cordons.These laterals should be spaced every 24 to 30inches along the cordons and draped over theouter wires (Figure 4). If they grow very vigorouslyduring spring, these laterals may be lightly headedback during the summer. Remove any growth,other than fruiting laterals, that sprouts on the cor-dons, particularly strong upright canes that willcompete with the fruiting laterals. However, to ex-tend the cordons, allow one cane at the end ofeach cordon to grow along the middle wire. Duringthe second winter pruning, head the cordons, leav-ing about 212 feet of the growth they made in thepreceding growing season (to a total length ofabout 5 feet from the trunk). Wrap the cordonsover the center wire again. (These two wrapsaround the middle wire should be sufficient to sup-port the cordons permanently.) Ultimately, the cor-dons will extend to about 8 feet from the trunk(which is one-half of the distance between vines ina typical planting). After this length is reached, usu-ally by the third dormant season, training is com-plete and plant energy is then directed into fruitproduction, renewal of the fruiting laterals, andthickening of the trunk and cordons.

After the kiwifruit vine is pinched, allow twocordons to grow to and along the training wire forthe remainder of the first growing season. Drapeeach cordon over the wire once (only once toavoid girdling the cordon) for support (Figure 3).

Figure 2. Single trunk in first growing season

Figure 3. Cordons draped over the training wireFigure 4. Lateral branches draped over the outer wires


After permanent cordons are trained as shownin Figures 1 through 4, kiwifruit vines can be fur-ther trained to a pergola system (Figure 5).Permanent cordons can be trained in a single direc-tion to cover a patio or in other configurations tosuit different structures. However, for best fruit pro-duction and quality in any pergola system, maintaina single layer of fruit-bearing wood and limit thearea to be covered by a single vine to approximate-ly 250 square feet (about 16 by 16 feet).

The fruiting lateral method of pruning shown inFigures 6 through 8 is the method recommended.Not only is it easier to master than spur pruning,but, for a vigorous vine like Hayward (whichdoesnt produce spurs until the vine is very large),it is the only method that will result in reliable fruitproduction from trellis-trained vines.

To the untrained eye, a mature kiwifruit vinemay appear hopelessly tangled and overgrown.Take hopeit isnt. First, remove all winders(canes that have wound around the trellis andother canes), crossed branches, and other branchessuch as suckers that obviously should be removed.With the structure of the vine now easier to dis-cern, remove 3-year-old fruiting laterals of spurs. Ina well-trained vine, one-third of the fruiting lateralsor spurs should be removed at every dormantpruning. Try to distribute the remaining laterals orspurs evenly along the cordons, maintaining a sin-gle layer of fruit-bearing vines. Prune kiwifruitvines in later winter or early spring; they may bleedif pruning is delayed until the early growing sea-son.

With the fruiting lateral pruning system, there isa constant turnover of fruiting laterals. Each fruitinglateral is left to fruit for two seasons (or three if it isstill very vigorous after it has fruited twice), andthen it is removed.

During the first summer of a fruiting lateralsgrowth, it will grow to about 4 to 6 feet from thecordon. Drape the lateral over the outer wire of thetrellis support as it grows (Figure 6). A very vigor-ous lateral can be headed back to about 4 feet inmidsummer. Because the ends of these laterals usu-ally wind around other laterals and wires, thisheading back simplifies dormant-season pruning.During the laterals first dormant season, cut it to 8to 10 buds (to just beyond the outer wire).

To start a pergola system, select strong fruitinglaterals during winter pruning, and train them overthe pergola. These will become permanent sec-ondary cordons and should be spaced about 3 feetapart. Depending on the pruning system you use,either fruiting laterals or spurs will be allowed todevelop along the secondary cordons. Fruiting lat-erals in the pergola system are pruned as shown inFigures 6 through 8. Due to the greater number ofcordons in the pergola system, fewer fruiting later-als should be left than in a trellis system, and theyshould be pruned more heavily in summer.

Pruning Once permanent cordons are established, a ki-

wifruit vine must be pruned throughout its lifetimein order to maintain its form, contain its size, and,most importantly, maximize its fruit production.Before any fruit-pruning system can be mastered,the fruiting habit of the plant must be understood.Kiwifruit vines produce all their fruit on the currentseasons growth that arises from 1-year-old wood.(The large, bulbous fruit buds can be easily distin-guished from the flat, inconspicuous vegetativebuds). With this fruiting habit in mind, the goal ofboth the fruiting lateral and the spur pruning sys-tems is to maximize such new and fruitful wood.

Figure 5. Pergola system

Figure 6. Cut first-year fruiting laterals to just beyond theouter wire during the first dormant season.

Cut first-year fruitinglateral here.

Cut first-year fruitinglateral here.

During the second summer, canes growingfrom the fruiting laterals will produce fruit at theirbases. During the growing season, in May or June,cut the ends of these canes back to 6 to 10 budsbeyond the last flower (18 to 24 inches from thefruiting lateral) (Figure 7). This diverts energy intothe fruit, prevents excessive shading of the fruitand vine, and simplifies the next dormant pruning.Very vigorous canes may need a second headingback later in the growing season. Remove mostnew laterals as they arise from the cordons, espe-cially those laterals with strong, upright growth.Leave a sufficient number of laterals, however, toreplace old fruiting canes that will be removed astheir production declines. These replacement later-als should be selected early in the growing season,at least by Memorial Day. Laterals that develop laterin the season will not be sufficiently mature to pro-duce fruit during the next growing season. Duringthe second winter, cut back the main stalk of thefruiting lateral, leaving only two to three of thecanes that fruited in the preceding season. Thesecanes will grow new fruiting wood in the nextgrowing season.

In the third growing season, the two to threecanes left on each lateral that bore fruit last yearwill bear fruit again on the new growth (Figure 8).Again, these canes should be headed back in sum-mer as shown in Figure 7.

The fruiting lateral, having produced fruit fortwo growing seasons, should be completely re-moved during the third dormant season. If it is stillvery vigorous after it has fruiting twice, however,the fruiting lateral may be left to fruit a third timebefore it is removed.


Figure 7. Cut first- and second-year laterals to just beyondthe last flower during the growing season.

First-year fruit-ing lateral

Second-year fruiting lateral

First-yearfruitinglateral

Second-yearfruiting lateral

Stems from lastsummers fruit

First-yearfruiting lateral

First-yearfruiting lateral

Second-yearfruitinglateral

Third-yearfruiting lateral

Second-yearfruiting lateral

Third-yearfruiting lateral

Figure 8. Head back the canes left oneach lateral in the third growing season.


References and Suggested SupplementalInformation Sources

Dave Wilson Nursery Planting GuideSupplement for Chestnuts, Filberts, and Kiwifruit.1982.

Kiwifruit Growing and Handling. Univ. ofCalif. Pub. 3344. 1994. 140 pages. Cost: $25.00.Order from: ANR Publications, 6701 San Pable Ave.,Oakland, CA 94608-1239. Make checks payable toUC Regents.

The Kiwifruit: A Home Gardeners Guide. 1990.Univ. of Calif. Leaflet 21469. 14 pages. Cost: $1.75.Order from: same as above.

Kiwifruit Science and Management. 1990. I.J.Warrington and G.C. Weston (eds.) 576 pages. NewZealand Society for Horticultural Science.

Kiwifruit Handbook. 1988. Daniel Johnson,Craig Hanson, Paul Thompson (eds.) BonsallPublications, 4339 Holly Lane, Bonsall, CA 92003.106 pages.

Kiwifruit Cultivar. 1985. P.R. Sale. GovernmentPrinting Office, Wellington, New Zealand. 96 pages.

Growing Kiwifruit. EC1464. 1995. Oregon StateUniversity. 22 pages. Cost: $3.25. Order from:Extension and Station Communications, OregonState University, 422 Kerr Administration, Corvallis,OR 97331-2119. Make checks payable to OregonState University.

Kiwifruit Enthusiasts Journal Vol. 6. 1992. 193pages. Cost: $17.20. Order from: Friends of theTrees, P.O. Box 1064, Tonasket, WA 98855, (509)485-2705.

Kiwifruit Orchard Establishment. Hort. Leaflet60. 1989. Free. Order from: Bulletin Room, P&ASBuilding, Clemson University, Clemson, SC 29634-5609.

Kiwifruit NurseriesTeltane Farm & NurseryPaula King & Mark FulfordRFD #1 - Box 3000Monroe, ME 04951(Catalog $2.00)(207) 525-7761

Tripple Brook Farm37 Middle RoadSouthampton, MA 01703(413) 527-4626

Edible LandscapingMichael McConkeyRt 2, Box 77Afton, VA 22920(703) 949-8408

Kiwis R UsDavid KuchtaTrippits Road, Route 54Nesquehoning, PA 18240(717) 645-3652

Far North Gardens16785 HarrisonLivonia, MI 48154

Pampered Plant NurseryDouglas ArmstrongP.O. Box 3Bourbonnais, IL 60914-0003(815) 937-9387

Louisiana NurseryKen & Belle DurioRt. 7, Box 43Opelousa, LA 70570(Catalog $5.00)(318) 948-3696

ANR-1084

David G. Himelrick, Extension Horticulturist, Professor, and Arlie Powell, ExtensionHorticulturist, Professor, both in Horticulture at Auburn University

Trade and brand names are used only for information. The Alabama Cooperative ExtensionSystem does not guarantee nor warrant the standard of any product mentioned; neither does itimply approval of any product to the exclusion of others that may also be suitable.

For more information, call your county Extension office. Look in your telephone directoryunder your countys name to find the number.

Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work in agriculture and home economics, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914,and other related acts, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture. The Alabama Cooperative Extension System(Alabama A&M University and Auburn University) offers educational programs, materials, and equal opportunity employ-ment to all people without regard to race, color, national origin, religion, sex, age, veteran status, or disability.

UPS, 5M19, New June 1998, ANR-1084

Sherwood Akins GreenhouseJ.S. AkinP.O. Box 6Sibley, LA 71073(318) 377-3653

Mike Tanimoto Nursery285 Standish LaneGridley, CA 95948(916) 846-3145

Roger & Shirley Meyer16531 Mt. Shelly CircleFountain Valley, CA 92708(714) 839-0796

Northwoods NurseryJim Gilbert28696 S. Cramer RoadMolalla, OR 97038(503) 651-3737

Northwoods Retail NurseryKathy Fives27635 South Oglesby RoadCanby, OR 97013

Oregon Exotics1065 Messinger RoadGrants Pass, OR 97527(Catalog $2.00)(503) 846-7578

Tolowa Nursery360 Stephen WayWilliams, OR 97544(503) 846-7327

Bear Creek NurseryP.O. Box 411Northport, WA 99157(Catalog $1.00)(503) 266-5432

Cloud Mountain NurseryTom Thornton6906 Goodwin RoadEverson, WA 98247(296) 966-5859

Natural Garden SupplyDick Green4711 KupreanofAnchorage, AL 99507(907) 561-4938

Kiwi Korners1701 Toby Run RoadDanville, PA 17821(717) 275-8781

Burnt Ridge NurseryMichael Dolan432 Burnt Ridge RoadOnalaska, WA 98750(206) 985-2873

Raintree Nursery391 Butts RoadMorton, WA 98356-9700(206) 496-6400

The Puget Sound Kiwi Co.Bob Glanzman1220 N.E. 90thSeattle, WA 98115(206) 523-6403

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