Having been revived, phoenix-like, from the rubble of the Korean War, locals like to call their 600-year-old capital the miracle on the Han. But as Seoul sets out with typical national zeal to reshape itself from a hardened concrete and steel economic powerhouse into a softer-edged 21st-century urban ideal of parks, culture and design, the signs are that the real miracle is currently unfolding. No stranger to cosmetic surgery, Seoul has signed up for the full face lift and lipo deal. Following on from the highly successful disinterring and landscaping of the central Cheong-gye stream comes the refashioning of the Han River parks, part of a plan to draw citizens towards the broad waterway splitting this immense metropolis into two distinct halves. As the city adopts the mantle of World Design Capital, other projects (see the boxed text opposite ) are in the works, not least of which are the Dongdaemun Design Plaza & Park, the futuristic vision of star-architect Zaha Hadid, and the eco-friendly new City Hall.

In the rush for the new, Seouls illustrious history hasnt been entirely jettisoned. Restoration of palaces and Namdaemun gate is ongoing and theres a plan to reconnect the fortress wall remains, parts of which snake over the forested mountains encircling the city that provide such wonderful refuge from the pressures of urban life. The joys of eating, drinking, shopping and general merrymaking are all in abundant evidence from Apgujeongs chic boutiques to Hong-daes bars and restaurants. An old Korean proverb goes even if you have to crawl on your knees, get yourself to Seoul! With so much going on, never has this been more sound advice.

Seoul

TELEPHONE CODE: 02 POPULATION: 10.4 MILLION AREA : 605 SQ KM

HIGHLIGHTS

Lose yourself in the picturesque, atmos-pheric streets of Bukchon Hanok Village ( p106 )

Listen to shamans chants on the hills of Inwangsan ( p109 )

Stroll beside the Cheong-gye-cheon ( p106 ) and return at night to see spectacu-lar laser light shows

Soak up the serenity of the Secret Garden at World Heritagelisted Changdeokgung ( p105 )

Hike the ancient fortress walls to the summit of Bukaksan ( p108 ) for panoramic views of the city

Test your bargaining skills at the all-night Namdaemun ( p108 ) or Dongdaemun ( p108 ) markets

DongdaemunNamdaemun

Bukaksan

Cheong-gye-cheon

Bukchon Hanok Village

ChangdeokgungInwangsan

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HISTORY When Seoul became the capital of Korea fol-lowing the establishment of the Joseon dy-nasty in 1392 ( p30 ) its population was around 100,000. Just over 600 years later this has bal-looned to 10.42 million (or 24.5 million if you consider the wider metro area), making Seoul one of the worlds largest cities.

During the 20th century Seoul suffered first under Japanese colonial rule and then during the Korean War when it was almost entirely destroyed. Rebuilt from the 1960s, Seoul is the countrys centre of cultural, economic and political power. Past may-ors have gone on to become South Koreas president, including the present incumbent Lee Myung-bak. The current mayor is Oh Se-hoon, who comes up for re-election in June 2010.

ORIENTATION Youll spend the bulk of your time north of the meandering Han River that splits Seoul into two distinct regions, that are themselves split into 25 gu (administrative districts). This is home to historic Seoul, a relatively com-pact, walkable area once defined by fortress walls ( p108 ).

Most tourist sights are clustered around the palaces in Gwanghwamun and Jongno-gu, while Seoul Station eventual terminus for the Arex train from Incheon International Airport is just south of here in central Jung-gu.

Namsan, crowned by N Seoul Tower, the green hill at the heart of the old city, is sand-wiched between Myeong-dong shopping dis-trict to the north and the foreigner-friendly zone of Itaewon to the south. Not far off to the west are the youthful party districts of Sinchon and Hongdae (short for Hongik University).

The largest mid-river island of Yeoui-do is like a mini-Manhattan with high rises and Koreas parliament.

South of the river, modern Gangnam and Apgujeong are the citys hubs of ostentation with expensive housing, shops and entertain-ment. Here youll also find giant complexes such as COEX Mall and Olympic Park.

Maps The Korea Tourism Organisation (KTO) of-fice (Map pp967 ) and other tourist offices around town have an extensive selection of free maps.

REDESIGNING SEOUL: CHUNG KYUNG-WON

From 2010 Seoul is the World Design Capital, an accolade it is living up to with a series of ambi-tious projects covering everything from the typography of signage, creating symbols such as the official mascot Haechi (a mythical lion-like creature), deciding on the citys official colours and constructing complexes such as the Dongdaemun Design Plaza & Park ( p108 ) and the new City Hall ( p109 ). To find out more about how the city is changing we talked with the head of Design Seoul Headquarters and Deputy Mayor Chung Kyung-won, the man holding the purse strings of a US$100 million annual budget.Why does Seoul need redesigning? After the Korean War totally destroyed everything in the city we had to rebuild quickly. There wasnt the energy or the resources to do this properly until the 1990s. There were urban plans but they were not so successful, especially in the older part of the city north of the Han River. The last mayor Lee Myung-bak started to change Seoul with the restoration of the Cheong-gye-cheon ( p106 ). The current mayor Oh Se-hoon fully understands the importance of good design and wants to revitalise Seoul based on this. He set up the Design Seoul Headquarters in April 2007.What projects have you been working on? We created the Seoul Design Olympiad (http://sdo.seoul.go.kr/eng/) as an annual event to promote design to Seouls citizens some two million people visited the first event in 2008. There is also a variety of missions to improve the quality of public design in the city, for example, the drawing up of guidelines on both public and commercial signs. There are several major renaissance projects: along the Han River where major public facilities are being developed and improved; on Namsan where we want to improve access, the quality of facilities and use sustainable approaches by employing more natural materials in this central green area; and giving a facelift to the citys major streets creating historical, digital media, green and creative arts corridors.

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INFORMATION Bookshops Bandi & Lunis (Map pp90-1 ; %6002 6002; COEX Mall; h10am-10pm; bLine 2 to Samseong, COEX Exit) Theres also a branch in the Jongno Tower basement (Map pp96-7 ; %2198 3000; bLine 1 to Jongno, Exit 3).Kyobo Bookshop (Map pp96-7 ; %3973 5100; bLine 5 to Gwanghwamun, Exit 4) Head to section F to find English-language books.Seoul Selection (Map pp96-7 ; %734 9565; www.seoulselection.com; h9.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat; bLine 3 to Anguk, Exit 1) Best place for books, CDs and DVDs about Korea in English. Also has internet access.What The Book? (Map p104 ; %797 2342; www.whatthebook.com; Sobangseo-gil, Itaewon; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, from noon Sun; bLine 6 to Itaewon, Exit 3) New and second-hand English-language books as well as a wide range of American magazines.

Emergency For general emergency numbers see the in-side front cover. Phone %1330 for the 24 hour English-language tourist information and help line.

Internet Access Internet rooms are on almost every street look for the PC sign. Most are open 24 hours and charge W1000 to W2000 per hour. Many backpacker guesthouses, hotels, cafes, tourists offices and government buildings offer free broadband internet access and wi-fi coverage is also widespread.

Laundry Backpacker guesthouses and motels usually provide free use of a washing machine al-though youll usually have to pay for drying. Dry-cleaning shops are fairly common, but theyre not cheap.

Left Luggage Most subway stations and bus terminals have lockers. Small lockers cost W1000 a day and the ones large enough for a backpack are W2000.

Media & Internet Resources The glossy monthly magazine Seoul (http://travel.seoulselection.com) is well worth picking up; go to the website to also register for their use-ful weekly newsletter about whats going on in the city. Other free monthly magazines with plenty of Seoul-related content include Groove Korea (www.groovekorea.com) and 10 Magazine

(www.10magazine.asia). Also tune into the English-language radio station TBS eFM (http://tbsefm.seoul.kr/) on 101.3 MHz for lots of info on whats happening in the city.

For information on the web go to:Discovering Korea (www.discoveringkorea.com) Matt Kellys blog is a goldmine of info on the city and other aspects of Korean culture.Korea4Expats (www.korea4expats) Comprehensive expat-penned site with lots of useful info.Seoul Metropolitan Government (http://english.seoul.go.kr) Citys official site.Seoulstyle.com (www.seoulstyle.com) The low-down on whats stylish in Seoul.Visit Seoul (www.visitseoul.net) Official city tourism-devoted site.

Medical Services Most facilities dont accept international insurance so bring cash or credit cards.Daewon Dental Clinic (Map p104 ; %794 0551; Itaewon;h10am-1pm & 2-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat; bLine 6 to Itaewon, Exit 4) Gentle Dr Park can take care of your dental problems.International Clinic (Map p104 ; %790 0857; www.internationalclinic.co.kr; Hannam Bldg, Itaewonno, Itaewon; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat, closed noon-2pm; bLine 6 to Itaewon, Exit 2)Samsung Medical Center (Map pp90-1 ; %3410 0200; www.samsunghospital.com; 50 Ilwondong,Gangnam-gu; h8.30am-noon, 1-5pm Mon-Fri; bLine 3 to Irwon, Exit 1)Severance Hospital (Map p93 ; %2228 5810, emergencies 012 263 6556; http://sev.iseverance.com; h9am-12.30pm, 1.30-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30-11am Sat; bLine 2 to Sinchon, Exit 3) The International Health Care Centre is on the 3rd floor of the large building beside Yonsei University.

Money Credit cards are readily accepted and more ATMs in Seoul accept foreign credit cards these days look for one that has a Global sign or the logo of your credit card company. Many banks offer a foreign-exchange service. There are also licensed moneychangers, par-ticularly in Itaewon, that keep longer hours than the banks and provide a faster service, but may only exchange US dollars cash.

Post Post offices are common and offer free in-ternet access.Anguk Post Office (Map pp96-7 ; %735 2005; Insa-dong; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri; bLine 3 to Anguk, Exit 1)

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Central Post Office (Map pp100-1 ; %6450 1114; Sogongno, Myeong-dong; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat & Sun; bLine 4 to Myeong-dong, Exit 6) This basement office also sells train tickets.

Toilets A huge effort has gone into improving stand-ards, so Seoul nowadays has plenty of clean, modern and well-signed public toilets. Virtually all toilets are free of charge. As always, its wise to carry a stash of toilet tissue around with you just in case theres none available.

Tourist Information There are over 20 tourist information booths around the city.

The main ones are:Cheong-gye-cheon Tourist Information Centre (Map pp96-7 ; Sejongno, Gwanghwamun; h9am-10pm; bLine 5 to Gwanhwamun, Exit 6)Gyeongbokgung Tourist Information Centre (Map pp96-7 ; %720 7465; Gwanghwamun; h9am-6pm; bLine 3 to Gyeongbokgung, Exit 5)Insa-dong Tourist Information Centre (Map pp96-7 ; %734 0222; Insadong-gil, Insa-dong; h10am-10pm; bLine 3 to Anguk, Exit 6) Free internet. Two more centres are at the south and north entrances to Insadong-gil.Itaewon Subway Tourist Information Centre (Map p104 ; %3785 2514; Itaewon; h9am-10pm; bLine 6 to Itaewon) Free internet, but may close earlier in winter.

SEOUL IN

Four Days Take an early morning stroll around Bukchon Hanok Village ( p106 ), pausing for refreshments in one of Insa-dong or Samcheong-dongs cafes and teahouses in between browsing a few of the areas equally ubiquitous art galleries ( p115 ). Admire the pageantry of the changing of the palace guard at Gyeongbokgung ( p106 ) at noon, then lunch at Tobang ( p133 ) or the fancier Mins Club ( p134 ). Join the days last tour of beautiful Changdeokgung ( p105 ), then grab an early dinner at one of the bindaetteok stalls in Gwangjang Market ( p132 ) before taking your seat at a fun non-verbal show such as Nanta or Jump ( p143 ).

Start day two enjoying the art and architecture at the splendid Leeum Samsung Museum of Art ( p110 ); afterwards take lunch at one of the many international restaurants of Itaewon ( p135 ). If youve not had your fill of museums opt for either the National Museum of Korea ( p110 ) or the War Memorial Museum ( p111 ), but dont try to do both! Freshen up with a soak in the tubs at Silloam Fomentation Sauna or Dragon Hill Spa ( p114 ) then follow the night walking tour ( p114 ), which includes the cable car up to N Seoul Tower ( p107 ) atop Namsan.

On day three look back at Namsan from the peak of Bukaksan ( p108 ) having hiked along part of the citys old fortress walls. Reflect on Koreas recent tragic history at Seodaemun Prison ( p109 ), then get some more exercise by exploring the temples and shrines of Inwangsan ( p109 ) where you might come across a shaman uttering sounds that do not seem of this world. Treat yourself in the evening to the traditional performing-arts show and royal-cuisine meal at Korea House ( p135 ).

A stroll along the Cheong-gye-cheon ( p106 ) to Dongdaemun ( p108 ) is a good way to begin day four; shop in the markets for cheap fashion and see how the Dongdaemun Design Plaza & Park are shaping up. Head south to the fascinating Noryangjin Fish Market ( p111 ) for lunch then hire a bike in Yeoui-do and cycle along the Han River to the World Cup Stadium and back (see the boxed text, p113 ). Soak up the youthful vibe of Hongdae at night enjoying great restaurants and bars such as Chin Chin ( p138 ) and Vinyl ( p139 ).

Seven Days On day five explore more sights south of the river including Olympic Park ( p112 ), scattered with interesting sculptures, the atmospheric Buddhist temple Bong-eun-sa ( p111 ) and the mammoth COEX Mall ( p144 ). More shopping can be done in the chic boutiques of Apgujeong and along tree-lined Garosu-gil ( p145 ). Dip into Gangnam nightlife with a meal and traditional rice wines at Baekseju ma-eul ( p139 ).

Round out the week with a couple of day trips, the best being to the DMZ ( p152 ) and to Suwon ( p155 ).

(Continued on page 105)

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GREATER SEOUL (pp90-1)INFORMATION Sky Art...................................................(see 3) Sheraton GrandeSamsung Medical Centre Swimming Pools ...............20 C4 Walkerhill Casino.........................(see 27)GG............................... 1 G5 Tangent...............................................21 F4

Seoul Immigration Head Ttukseom Outdoor SHOPPINGf (pp143-5)Office............ 2 B4 Swimming Pools Bandi & Luni's...................................(see 35)

...........................22 F4 COEX Mall....................... 35 F4SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES (pp105-114) World Cup Spaland Gyeong-dong Medicinal63 City ]Z .................................... 3 C4 G ....................... (see 23) Herb Market ............... 36 F3Art Hall ................................................. (see 3) World Cup Stadium Hyundai DepartmentBicycle Rental....................................... 4 C4 G .........................23 C3 Store......................... 37 F4Bicycle Rental Zoo........................................................24 E6 Janganpyeong Antiques.................................. 5 F4 Market

Bicycle Rental...................................(see 14) SLEEPINGi (pp119-132) .................................... 38 F3Bicycle Rental...................................(see 17) Hotel Blue Pearl Lotte Department Store...............(see 10)Bong-eun-sa ......................... 6 F4 ....................................25 F4 Techno Mart ............. 39 G4Children's Grand Park Lotte World Hotel.................................. 7 F3 .............................. (see 10) TRANSPORT (pp145-8)

COEX Aquarium..............................(see 35) Park Hyatt Seoul...............................26 F4 Banghwa Water TaxiEntrance to Bukaksan Sheraton Grande Station.............................................. 40 A2

Hike...................................................... 8 D2 Walkerhill CALT....................................................(see 37)Folk Museum ...................................(see 10) Dong-Seoul Bus TerminalIce Skating Rink...............................(see 10) ................................................................27 G3 ...................... 41 G4Kring Gumho Culture W Seoul Walkerhill Gimpo International

Complex............................................. 9 F5 ....................................28 G3 Airport.............................................. 42 A3Lotte World Adventure & Jamsil Pier Water Taxi

Magic Island..................................(see 10) EATING (pp132-6) Station..................... 43 F4Lotte World Amusement Busan Ilbeonji Mangwon Water Taxi

Park................................10 G4 .................................. (see 13) Station.............................................. 44 C3National Assembly Naru.................................................... (see 16) Nanji Water Taxi Station.....................................11 C4 G .................................. 45 B3

National Museum of ENTERTAINMENT (pp139-143) Sangbong Bus TerminalContemporary Art Cinemateque KOFA GG ....................... 46 G2 ...........................12 E6 ...........................29 C3 Seonyu-do Water Taxi

Noryangjin Fish Market Jamsil Baseball Stadium Station.............................................(see 16) ...........................13 C4 ....................................30 F4 Ttukseom Resort Water

Olympic Park..................14 G4 Jamsil Gymnasium Taxi Station............ 47 F4Samreung Gongwon ...........................31 F4 Yanghwa Dangsan Station .........................................15 F4 National Centre for Water Taxi....................................... 48 C4

Sea World............................................ (see 3) Korean Traditional Yanghwa Water TaxiSeonyu-do Park Performing Arts Station..................... 49 C4.....................................16 C3 ....................................32 E5 Yeoui 119 Water Taxi

Seoul Forest Park Seoul Arts Centre Station.............................................(see 50).....................................17 F3 ...........................33 E5 Yeouido Water Taxi

Seoul Land Amusement Seoul Racecourse Station ................ 50 C4Park................................18 E6 ....................................34 E6 Yeouinaru Station water

Seoul Olympic Museum.................19 G4 Seven Luck Casino......................... (see 35) taxi station.....................................(see 20)

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