landscaping: flowering annuals for wyoming · the best method for improving either clay or sandy...
TRANSCRIPT
Cooperative Extension Service
Landscaping: Flowering Annuals for Wyoming
Karen L. PanterExtension Horticulture SpecialistDepartment of Plant SciencesUniversity of Wyoming
B-1170 February 2006
Issued in furtherance of cooperative extension work, acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture. Glen Whipple, director, Cooperative Extension Service, University of Wyoming, Laramie, Wyoming 82071.
Persons seeking admission, employment, or access to programs of the University of Wyoming shall be con-sidered without regard to race, color, religion, sex, national origin, disability, age, political belief, veteran status, sexual orientation, and marital or familial status. Persons with disabilities who require alterna-tive means for communication or program information (Braille, large print, audiotape, etc.) should contact their local UW CES Office. To file a complaint, write the UW Employment Practices/Affirmative Action Office, University of Wyoming, 1000 E. University Ave., Dept. 3434, Laramie, WY 82071.
AuthorKaren L. Panter, University of Wyoming Extension Horticulture Specialist, Department of Plant Sciences, P.O. Box 3354, Laramie, WY 82071-3354
Layout and Design: Jenna Norfolk, Agricultural Communications and Technology Intern
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For bright splashes of color all summer, nothing beats annuals. Though many
are technically perennials that simply won’t survive cold Wyoming winters, many are truly “annual.”
The botanical definition of an annual plant is one that germinates from seed; grows and develops; forms flowers, fruits, and seeds; and then dies all in one growing season. True annuals include sunflowers while others, like impatiens, are perennial in their native Central America but are treated as annuals here.
Annuals are highly important in Wyo-ming gardens and landscapes because of their diversity in foliage color and texture, flower color and size, and adaptability. An-nual blossoms are quite colorful and plants will bloom all growing season. There are hundreds of species and cultivars available, most of which will thrive in Wyoming.
Annual flower gardens require planning and care. An annual garden, by its very na-ture, is very different from a perennial gar-den. Annuals bloom all summer long and must be replanted each spring and cleaned out each fall.
Wyoming’s climate can be stressful for many plants. Low rainfall, low humidity, high wind, and high solar radiation, not to mention late frosts in spring and early frosts in fall, can make gardening with an-nuals a challenge. A short growing season often limits plant growth. Plus, local soils almost always need improvement to sup-port gardens used each year for annuals.
Soil and bed preparation Even though annuals are only in the ground for one growing season, pre-plant soil preparation is still important. Most annual flowers grow best in moderately fertile, well-drained soil. Wyoming soils are often low in organic matter, nitrogen and, sometimes, available phosphorus. Some have poor drainage and high soluble salts. These problems need to be corrected be-fore planting. The work involved in proper soil preparation will pay dividends every year.
Have a soil test done. Contact the local county office of the University of Wyoming Cooperative Extension Service (UW CES) for assistance. A test will report the soil texture, organic matter percentage, avail-able phosphorus and nitrogen, pH, soluble salt level, and lime content. Recommen-dations will be included for fertilizer ap-plications, if needed, along with other soil modifications.
Most Wyoming soils are heavy clay, but occasionally sandy types occur. The best method for improving either clay or sandy soils is to add good quality organic matter. This can be well-aged compost, peat moss, or any clean, well-composted organic ma-terial. The usual recommendation is to add
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a layer 2 to 3 inches thick on the top of the garden bed and then spade or till it in to a depth of about 6 inches. With annual gar-dens, this should be done each year. Never add sand as a soil amendment. Fertilization may or may not be necessary, depending upon the results of the soil test.
Planting Even with annual flowers, it is helpful to have a plan drawn up before plants are purchased. A bit of planning on paper may be beneficial. Always consider the mature height, spread, flower color, water needs, and light requirements of plants. Mass planting groups of plants of one species and color will produce an eye-catching dis-play.
When purchasing plant material, buy from reputable retailers. Make sure the plants have been properly cared for by the retailer. Foliage should be healthy and green; check for signs of insect or disease damage. Also look to see if the roots are healthy and white and that the plant is rooted to the bottom of the container or cell pack. Look for signs of stress including leaf tip burning or wilting, which may indi-cate inadequate watering.
Always purchase plants with proper labels on them. Labeling should include a plant’s Latin name, one or more com-mon names, picture, height and width at maturity, planting spacing, exposure needs, fertilizer needs, water requirements, and any other important information specific to that plant. If a label is not present, choose something else.
The vast majority of flowering annuals are not cold tolerant, so wait to plant them until after the last local frost date (see side-bar). Carefully remove each plant from its container or cell pack and plant it no deep-er than it was in the original pot or pack. Circling roots can be gently unwound and root-bound roots can be loosened. Lightly firm the soil around the plant. After plant-ing is complete, water each plant carefully and thoroughly. This does two things: it provides water for the plant in its new home, and it settles the soil in around the root system, minimizing air pockets.
Watering Regular irrigation is recommended for the best performance of many flowering annuals. This is especially important for the first week or two as the plant is becoming established in the garden. There are no hard and fast rules of thumb for irrigating annuals simply because of their great diver-sity. If in doubt, follow instructions on the label or carefully dig down 4 to 6 inches in the flower bed to determine how dry the soil is. If it is moist on top, wait another day. If it is dry all the way down, it is time to water thoroughly. Infrequent, thorough, deep watering is always preferred over fre-quent, shallow irrigations. Try to water in the morning; watering at night leaves foli-age wet which can foster disease develop-ment.
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It is helpful to plant annuals with similar water requirements together in “zones.” Those requiring little additional water should be planted together, those requir-ing moderate moisture should be in the same zone, and those with high water re-quirements should be in their own zone. This makes it much easier to water plants according to their needs, especially if an automated system is used.
Watering can be accomplished in sev-eral ways. Hand watering is probably the most inefficient, but many municipalities require this method during periods of drought. The reason is gardeners won’t ac-cidentally forget to turn the sprinkler off if they are the sprinkler.
Setting a hose and sprinkler out for a specified amount of time is also acceptable but can lead to over- or under-irrigation. Automatic sprinkler systems set up for turf areas may also work, but care must be taken to make sure the garden area is cov-ered. Unfortunately, this type of watering is usually on a schedule rather than based on plant needs. Learn how to set or reset the timer as needed throughout the grow-ing season.
An excellent option is drip irrigation. Many types are available today that will afford thorough coverage with little evaporation, however, a drip system requires mainte-nance as emitters will sometimes clog. Re-placement is usually necessary after a few years because the tubing will break down over time with Wyoming’s high solar radia-tion and rapid temperature fluctuations. Soaker hoses are another good option. These can be hidden under mulch and may last somewhat longer than drip hoses.
Mulching
Using mulches during the growing season will slow the loss of water, prevent soil drying and cracking, reduce weak plant growth, prevent soil splashing, and provide a neat and well-kept appearance. Many kinds of mulch are available includ-ing organic types such as bark chunks, pine needles, ground corn cobs, wood chips, or compost. Organic mulches are beneficial in that they return nutrients to the soil as they break down. Be aware that some, like pine needles or any small organic matter, may blow away in high winds. Mulch must allow water and oxygen to penetrate into the soil below, and it should decompose slowly. A layer 2 inches thick is ideal.
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There are disadvantages to organic mulch-es. In some locations in Wyoming, the soil may stay too cool under mulch. With cool soil, root growth may be inhibited which in turn limits shoot growth. This may be a problem particularly with annual vegetable crops that may then mature too late in the growing season. If cool soils are a problem, wait until the sun has warmed the soil in late spring to apply mulch. Also, certain pests like slugs may hide in some mulches.
Inorganic mulches are also available but are not as highly recommended. These are permanent unless moved, will not decompose, and may impede water and oxygen penetration into the root zone underneath. Inorganic mulches include crushed rock, marble chips, and various sizes of gravel. Plastics are not recom-mended because they do not allow water or oxygen to penetrate to plant roots. Even landscape fabrics are not recommended by some landscapers. Although they do allow water and oxygen to penetrate into the soil and also minimize weed problems early on, fabrics make it difficult to plant or replant. Their purpose is often defeated as soil and other organic matter builds up on top, leading to weed problems later.
Fertilizing Annuals differ widely in their fertiliza-tion needs. The label on a plant should state the fertilizer needs of the plant in the container. A soil test will provide the information necessary to determine if the flower bed needs any nutrients. If fertil-izer is needed, there are many acceptable types on the market. Always read and fol-low label directions and be careful not to over fertilize. Too much fertilizer leads to spindly, weak, tender plant growth that will not hold up in Wyoming’s climate. Also, too much fertilizer is known to contribute to downstream pollution and algal blooms. If in doubt, don’t fertilize or at least use minimal amounts.
Some of the types available in retail stores include liquid or dry concentrates, liquid ready-to-use, granular, and slow release. Dry or liquid mix-your-own kinds tend to be the least expensive and are the easiest to over apply. More is definitely not better. Slow release types are more expen-sive but generally one application in the spring is sufficient to last the growing sea-son.
Many organic fertilizers are available but tend to be lower in nutrient content. Manures and composts can be used. Ma-nure, if not aged properly, can be very high in soluble salts, leading to burned plant roots. Composts decompose, and an ad-ditional nitrogen source may be required for annual plants to thrive. This is because microbes decomposing the organic matter can easily use up any available soil nitrogen leaving little to none for the plants.
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Staking Few annuals will require staking. If needed for taller plants, use stakes 6 to 12 inches shorter than the full-grown stems. Use several stakes around the plants. Al-ways use soft cotton cord, jute, or wide plastic, and never wire. Tie one end of the cord to a stake and then surround the plant until it is encircled by the cord, thus hold-ing up the plant.
Pests Weeds can be managed by starting with clean soil and weed-free plant mate-rial and organic matter. Regular cultivation and hand weeding will usually be needed through the growing season. Using a good layer of mulch often minimizes weed problems, as does placing plants close to-gether. Both of these strategies minimize sunlight penetration to weed seeds, which, in turn, keeps them from germinating and growing. Sometimes using mulches such as straw, manure, and hay can aggravate weed problems because weed seeds are of-ten found in them. If possible, avoid using these materials if weeds are a problem.
Insect pests can sometimes gather in large enough numbers to injure flowering annuals. In a well-watered and well-tended garden, some insects may thrive. The best defense is actually a good offense – keep-ing annuals healthy in the first place. Plants are like people in this respect. If they are stressed by too much or too little water, fertilizer, sun, or shade, they are much more susceptible to injury from insects and diseases. For this reason, proper fertilizing, watering, and spacing are very important.
Simply by scouting and monitoring the plants in a garden frequently, one can find many insect pests and begin proper treatments. Be aware many insects in the garden are actually beneficial. Few of them create problems for annuals. For this rea-son, proper identification of an insect is crucial and remedies may or may not be warranted. Contact a local UW CES office for insect diagnostic assistance.
Diseases in the annual flower garden can be minimized by proper watering, fer-tilizing, spacing, plant selection, and sanita-tion. Occasional outbreaks of diseases can frequently be managed through changes in watering or other cultural practices. There are many types of diseases caused by fungi, bacteria, and viruses. Viruses can-not be managed other than by removing and destroying an affected plant. Any sus-pected plant disease should be checked by a knowledgeable diagnostician. Contact a local UW CES office for further diagnostic help. Never compost diseased plant materi-als because the causal organisms may not be killed by the process. Fall clean-up
Removing annual plants after fall dieback
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helps to minimize disease and insect prob-lems for the following season. Sometimes, insects and diseases over-winter on plant parts left in the garden. By removing these in the fall, the chances of re-infection the next growing season will be less. If the an-nuals were healthy, they can be composted after removal from the garden.
Winter care Winter care for annual beds? Definitely. Clean out the plants after dieback in the fall. Then add another layer of mulch. It will help keep the soil underneath moist during the winter and will also minimize temperature fluctuations. Plus, it will be there in the spring when new annuals are ready to be planted.
Annuals in containers Annuals work beautifully in many types of containers, from large Grecian urns to hanging baskets. Many retail garden cen-ters sell ready-to-go container gardens full of assorted flowering annuals. Hanging baskets are also available in many different sizes, many with several varieties of plants in them. Changing container collections during the season can lend new and excit-ing visual appeal.
The trick to container gardening is to use good, clean, soilless growing media (also avoid sand). These potting mixes are lightweight, already clean, and many pro-vide starter fertilizers to jump start plant growth. Always use containers with drain-age holes in the bottom, and never put anything over the drainage hole (clay pot shard, layer of gravel, etc.) as these actu-ally decrease drainage and may lead to root rotting problems.
Plants in a container of any sort will dry out quicker than plants in the ground, so attention to watering is crucial. A hang-ing basket in a sunny location will need water every day. Fertilizing may or may not need to be done, depending on the plant material. An easy way to fertilize container-ized plants is to use a slow-release, granular fertilizer. If applied at planting time in the spring, these are usually sufficient to carry the plants through the growing season.
Hydrophilic gels are frequently sold as products that will increase a container’s ability to hold water. Studies have shown mixed results, often showing no difference in days between waterings between media containing gels and media with no gels in-corporated. They can be expensive and are hard to work with, especially when they are wet. They also have a tendency to break down over time, especially with high levels of fertility or salts in irrigation water.
Suggested flowering annuals The following table includes annual flowering plants that survive and thrive in Wyoming. It is divided into two sections – one for warmer, lower elevations and one for cooler and higher elevations.
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Tab
le 1
. Ann
uals
for
war
mer
are
as, i
nclu
ding
low
er e
leva
tions
in W
yom
ing.
Lat
in n
ame
Com
mon
nam
eFa
mily
Hei
ght
Spre
adFl
ower
col
orE
xpos
ure
Wat
er
Age
ratu
m h
oust
onia
num
Flos
sflow
er,
ager
atum
Ast
erac
eae
6”-2
’1’
Blu
e, p
ink,
whi
teSu
n, p
art
shad
eR
egul
ar
Alc
ea r
osea
(bi
enni
al)
Hol
lyho
ckM
alva
ceae
6’1’
Whi
te, p
ink,
ros
e,
purp
le, y
ello
w, a
pric
otSu
n, p
art
shad
eR
egul
ar
Alt
erna
nthe
ra te
nella
Gar
den
alte
rnan
ther
a,
joyw
eed
Am
aran
thac
eae
6”-1
’8”
Red
, bro
nze
Sun
Mod
erat
e
Am
aran
thus
tric
olor
Jose
ph’s
coa
t,
amar
anth
Am
aran
thac
eae
1’-4
’18
”R
ed a
nd g
reen
bl
otch
edSu
n, p
art
shad
eR
egul
ar
Arc
toti
s sto
echa
difo
lia
(A. v
enus
ta, V
enid
ium
fa
stuo
sum
)
Afr
ican
dai
sy, b
lue
eyed
dai
sy, a
rcto
tisA
ster
acea
e2’
18”
Whi
te w
ith y
ello
w/
blue
or
yello
w/
purp
le
cent
er
Sun
Mod
erat
e
Beg
onia
sem
perfl
oren
s-cu
ltor
umFi
brou
s-ro
oted
be
goni
a, w
ax
bego
nia,
wax
pla
nt
Beg
onia
ceae
6”-1
’10
”R
ange
from
whi
te
thro
ugh
red
Part
sha
deR
egul
ar
Bra
chys
com
e (B
rach
ycom
e) ib
erid
ifol
iaSw
an R
iver
dai
syA
ster
acea
e1’
18”
Blu
e, w
hite
, pin
kSu
nR
egul
ar
Bro
wal
lia sp
ecio
saB
row
allia
, am
ethy
st
flow
er, s
apph
ire
flow
er
Sola
nace
ae1’
-2’
1’Pu
rple
, blu
e, in
digo
, w
hite
Part
sha
deR
egul
ar
Cal
ibra
choa
offi
cina
lisM
illio
n be
lls,
calib
rach
oaSo
lana
ceae
Som
e tr
ailin
g, s
ome
mou
ndin
g
2’
Var
ious
dep
endi
ng o
n pl
ant
habi
t Su
n, p
art
shad
eR
egul
ar
Cal
liste
phus
chi
nens
isC
hina
ast
er, a
nnua
l as
ter
Ast
erac
eae
8”-3
’10
”-18
”R
ange
from
whi
te,
blue
, pur
ple,
sca
rlet
Sun
Reg
ular
Cat
hara
nthu
s ros
eus
(Vin
ca r
osea
)M
adag
asca
r pe
riw
inkl
e, r
ose
peri
win
kle
Apo
cyna
ceae
1’-2
’1’
-2’
Whi
te, p
ink,
ros
eSu
n, p
art
shad
eM
oder
ate
�
Lat
in n
ame
Com
mon
nam
eFa
mily
Hei
ght
Spre
adFl
ower
col
orE
xpos
ure
Wat
er
Cel
osia
C
ocks
com
bA
mar
anth
acea
e6”
-3’
6”-1
8”Pi
nk, o
rang
e, r
ed,
gold
, yel
low
, pur
ple
Sun
Mod
erat
e
Cle
ome
hassl
eran
a (C
. sp
inos
a)C
leom
e, s
pide
r flo
wer
Cap
pari
dace
ae4’
-6’
4’-5
’W
hite
, ros
e, r
ed,
cher
ry, p
urpl
eSu
nR
egul
ar
Col
eus x
hyb
ridu
s (S
olen
oste
mon
sc
utel
lari
odes
)
Col
eus
Lam
iace
ae1’
-2’
1’-2
’G
row
n fo
r co
lore
d fo
liage
Part
sha
deR
egul
ar
Cor
dylin
e in
divi
saSp
ike,
dra
caen
aA
gava
ceae
18”-
24”
12”-
18”
Folia
ge p
lant
Sun,
par
t sh
ade
Reg
ular
Cor
eops
is ti
ncto
ria
Ann
ual t
icks
eed,
ca
lliop
sis
Ast
erac
eae
18”-
3’12
”-18
”Ye
llow
, ora
nge,
m
aroo
n, b
ronz
e, r
edSu
nL
ittle
Cos
mos
sulp
hure
usC
osm
osA
ster
acea
e18
”-7’
18”-
30”
Yello
w, o
rang
e-ye
llow
Sun
Mod
erat
e
Cup
hea
igne
aC
igar
pla
nt, c
igar
flo
wer
Lyt
hrac
eae
1’1’
Ora
nge-
red
Sun,
par
t sh
ade
Reg
ular
Dah
lia h
ybri
dsG
arde
n da
hlia
Ast
erac
eae
1’-7
’1’
-3’
Var
ious
col
ors
and
flow
er fo
rms
Sun,
par
t sh
ade
Reg
ular
Dia
scia
bar
bera
eT
win
spur
Scro
phul
aria
ceae
10”
20”
Ros
e pi
nkSu
n, p
art
shad
eM
oder
ate
Dys
sodi
a te
nuilo
ba
(Thy
mop
hylla
tenu
iloba
)D
ahlb
erg
dais
y,
gold
en fl
eece
Ast
erac
eae
1’18
”Ye
llow
Sun
Mod
erat
e
Eus
tom
a gr
andi
floru
m
(Lisi
anth
us r
usse
llian
us)
Lis
iant
hus
Gen
tiana
ceae
1’-3
’1’
Blu
e, p
ink,
whi
te, r
ose
red
Sun,
par
t sh
ade
Reg
ular
Gai
llard
ia p
ulch
ella
(G
. dr
umm
ondi
)A
nnua
l gai
llard
ia,
blan
ket
flow
erA
ster
acea
e18
”-2’
1’R
ed, y
ello
w, g
old
Sun
Mod
erat
e
Ger
bera
jam
eson
iiT
rans
vaal
dai
sy,
gerb
era
dais
yA
ster
acea
e18
”12
”C
ream
, yel
low
, cor
al,
oran
ge, r
edSu
n, p
art
shad
eR
egul
ar
Gla
diol
us h
ybri
dsG
ladi
ola
Irid
acea
e3’
-6’
12”
Whi
te, c
ream
, yel
low
, or
ange
, apr
icot
, sa
lmon
, red
, ros
e,
lave
nder
, pur
ple,
gre
en
Sun
Reg
ular
�
Lat
in n
ame
Com
mon
nam
eFa
mily
Hei
ght
Spre
adFl
ower
col
orE
xpos
ure
Wat
er
Gom
phre
na g
lobo
saG
omph
rena
, glo
be
amar
anth
Am
aran
thac
eae
1’-2
’12
”W
hite
, pin
k, r
ed,
purp
leSu
n, p
art
shad
eM
oder
ate
Hel
iant
hus a
nnuu
sSu
nflow
erA
ster
acea
e2’
-10’
1’-2
’W
hite
, yel
low
, red
, bi
colo
rsSu
nR
egul
ar
Hel
ichr
ysum
bra
ctea
tum
Stra
wflo
wer
Ast
erac
eae
2’-3
’1’
Yello
w, o
rang
e, r
ed,
pink
, whi
teSu
nM
oder
ate
Hel
iotr
opum
arb
ores
cens
Com
mon
he
liotr
ope
Bor
agin
acea
e18
”-2’
12”-
18”
Vio
let,
pur
ple,
blu
e,
whi
teSu
n, p
art
shad
eR
egul
ar
Impa
tien
s bal
sam
ina
Gar
den
bals
am,
rose
bal
sam
Bal
sam
inac
eae
8”-3
0”6”
-8”
Whi
te, p
ink,
ros
e, li
lac,
re
dSu
n, p
art
shad
eR
egul
ar
Impa
tien
s New
Gui
nea
hybr
ids
New
Gui
nea
impa
tiens
Bal
sam
inac
eae
1’-2
’1’
-2’
Var
iega
ted
folia
ge;
flow
ers
whi
te, o
rang
e,
red,
pin
k, p
urpl
e,
lave
nder
Part
sha
deR
egul
ar
Impa
tien
s wal
lera
na (
I.
wal
leri
ana)
Bus
y L
izzi
e,
impa
tiens
Bal
sam
inac
eae
1’-2
’1’
-2’
All
colo
rs b
ut y
ello
w
and
blue
Part
sha
de,
shad
eR
egul
ar
Ipom
oea
bata
tas
Swee
t po
tato
vin
eC
onvo
lvul
acea
eV
ine
3’G
row
n fo
r ch
artr
euse
to
pur
ple
folia
geSu
nR
egul
ar
Ipom
oea
purp
urea
(C
onvo
lvul
us p
urpu
reus
)M
orni
ng g
lory
Con
volv
ulac
eae
6’-1
5’ v
ine
1’B
lue,
lave
nder
, pin
k,
red,
whi
teSu
nR
egul
ar
Lava
tera
trim
estr
isA
nnua
l mal
low
Mal
vace
ae3’
-6’
3’-6
’W
hite
, pin
k, r
ose
pink
Sun
Reg
ular
Lim
oniu
m si
nuat
umA
nnua
l sta
tice
Plum
bagi
nace
ae18
”1’
Blu
e, la
vend
er, r
ose,
ye
llow
, pea
ch, p
urpl
e,
whi
te
Sun
Mod
erat
e
Lobe
lia e
rinu
sL
obel
ia, e
dgin
g lo
belia
Lob
elia
ceae
6”9”
-18”
Blu
e, v
iole
t, w
hite
Sun,
par
t sh
ade
Reg
ular
Lobu
lari
a m
arit
ima
(Aly
ssum
mar
itim
um)
Swee
t al
yssu
mB
rass
icac
eae
1’1’
Whi
te, p
ink,
vio
let
Sun
Reg
ular
Luna
ria
annu
a (L
. bi
enni
s)M
oney
pla
nt, s
ilver
do
llar
plan
tB
rass
icac
eae
18”-
3’1’
Purp
le, w
hite
Sun,
par
t sh
ade
Litt
le
�0
Lat
in n
ame
Com
mon
nam
eFa
mily
Hei
ght
Spre
adFl
ower
col
orE
xpos
ure
Wat
er
Mim
ulus
x h
ybri
dus
Mon
key
flow
erSc
roph
ular
iace
ae1’
1’C
ream
, ros
e, o
rang
e,
yello
w, s
carl
et, b
row
nPa
rt s
hade
, sh
ade
Reg
ular
Mir
abili
s jal
apa
Four
o’c
lock
Nyc
tagi
nace
ae3’
3’W
hite
, red
, pin
k,
yello
wSu
nL
ittle
Nic
otia
na a
lata
Flow
erin
g to
bacc
o,
orna
men
tal t
obac
coSo
lana
ceae
1’-4
’1’
Whi
te, p
ink,
red
, gr
een
Sun,
par
t sh
ade
Reg
ular
Nie
rem
berg
ia
hipp
oman
ica
(N.
caer
ulea
)
Nie
rem
berg
ia,
cupfl
ower
Sola
nace
ae6”
-12”
6”-1
2”B
lue
to v
iole
tSu
nR
egul
ar
Pela
rgon
ium
x
dom
esti
cum
Mar
tha
Was
hing
ton
or R
egal
ger
aniu
mG
eran
iace
ae2’
2’W
hite
, pin
k, r
ed,
lave
nder
, pur
ple
Sun
Reg
ular
Pela
rgon
ium
x h
orto
rum
Zon
al g
eran
ium
, se
ed g
eran
ium
Ger
ania
ceae
2’2’
Whi
te, p
ink,
ros
e, r
ed,
oran
ge, v
iole
tSu
nR
egul
ar
Pela
rgon
ium
pel
tatu
mIv
y ge
rani
umG
eran
iace
ae18
”2’
-4’
Whi
te, p
ink,
ros
e, r
ed,
lave
nder
Sun
Reg
ular
Pela
rgon
ium
sce
nted
ty
pes
Scen
ted
gera
nium
Ger
ania
ceae
1’-3
’1’
-3’
Whi
te, r
ose
Sun
Reg
ular
Penn
isetu
m se
tace
um
rubr
um (
P. r
uppe
lii)
Purp
le fo
unta
in
gras
sPo
acea
e3’
3’C
oppe
ry p
ink,
pur
ple
Sun,
par
t sh
ade
Mod
erat
e
Pent
as la
nceo
lata
Star
clu
ster
s, p
enta
sR
ubia
ceae
2’-3
’2’
-3’
Whi
te, p
ink,
lila
c, r
edSu
nR
egul
ar
Petu
nia
x hy
brid
aPe
tuni
aSo
lana
ceae
Var
ious
, so
me
trai
ling
Var
ious
, so
me
trai
ling
Whi
te, c
ream
, yel
low
, re
ds, b
lues
, pur
ples
, bi
colo
rs
Sun
Reg
ular
Phlo
x dr
umm
ondi
iA
nnua
l phl
ox,
Dru
mm
ond
phlo
xPo
lem
onia
ceae
6”-1
8”10
”-12
”Pa
stel
s ex
cept
blu
e an
d or
ange
Sun
Reg
ular
Port
ulac
a gr
andi
flora
Ros
e m
oss,
mos
s ro
se, p
ortu
laca
, sun
pl
ant
Port
ulac
acea
e6”
18”
Whi
te, r
ed, p
ink,
or
ange
, yel
low
Sun
Mod
erat
e
Salp
iglo
ssis s
inua
taPa
inte
d to
ngue
Sola
nace
ae2’
-3’
1’R
ed, r
eddi
sh o
rang
e,
yello
w, p
urpl
e, p
ink
Sun
Reg
ular
��
Lat
in n
ame
Com
mon
nam
eFa
mily
Hei
ght
Spre
adFl
ower
col
orE
xpos
ure
Wat
er
Salv
ia sp
lend
ens
Scar
let
sage
, red
sa
lvia
Lam
iace
ae1’
-3’
1’-2
’W
hite
, red
, sal
mon
, pi
nk, p
urpl
eSu
nR
egul
ar
Sant
olin
a ch
amae
cypa
rissu
sL
aven
der
cott
onA
ster
acea
e1’
-2’
2’-3
’Ye
llow
Sun
Litt
le
Sanv
ital
ia p
rocu
mbe
nsC
reep
ing
zinn
ia,
trai
ling
sanv
italia
Ast
erac
eae
6”18
”Ye
llow
, ora
nge
Sun
Mod
erat
e
Scab
iosa
atr
opur
pure
aA
nnua
l pin
cush
ion
flow
erD
ipsa
cace
ae2’
1’W
hite
, ros
e, s
alm
on,
purp
leSu
nM
oder
ate
Scae
vola
Scae
vola
Goo
deni
acea
e6”
3’M
auve
Sun
Mod
erat
e
Tage
tes e
rect
aA
fric
an m
arig
old,
A
ztec
mar
igol
dA
ster
acea
e2’
-3’
2’C
ream
, yel
low
, gol
d,
oran
geSu
nM
oder
ate
Tage
tes p
atul
aFr
ench
mar
igol
dA
ster
acea
e6”
-18”
6”-1
8”Ye
llow
, ora
nge,
gol
d,
mar
oon
Sun
Mod
erat
e
Thu
nber
gia
alat
aB
lack
-eye
d Su
san
vine
, clo
ck v
ine
Aca
ntha
ceae
Vin
e3’
Whi
te, y
ello
w, o
rang
eSu
n, p
art
shad
eR
egul
ar
Tit
honi
a ro
tund
ifol
iaM
exic
an s
unflo
wer
, tit
honi
aA
ster
acea
e4’
3’G
old,
ora
nge,
yel
low
Sun
Reg
ular
Tore
nia
four
nier
iW
ishb
one
flow
er,
tore
nia
Scro
phul
aria
ceae
1’1’
Whi
te, l
aven
der
Sun,
par
t sh
ade
Reg
ular
Trop
aeol
um m
ajus
Nas
turt
ium
, Ind
ian
cres
sT
ropa
eola
ceae
18”,
som
e tr
ailin
g18
”, s
ome
trai
ling
Whi
te, y
ello
w, o
rang
e,
red,
mar
oon
Sun,
par
t sh
ade
Reg
ular
Verb
ena
x hy
brid
aG
arde
n ve
rben
aV
erbe
nace
ae6”
-12”
18”-
3’W
hite
, pin
k, r
ed,
purp
le, b
lue
Sun
Mod
erat
e
Zinn
ia a
ngus
tifo
liaC
ompa
ct z
inni
aA
ster
acea
e16
”16
”W
hite
, yel
low
, ora
nge
Sun
Reg
ular
Zinn
ia e
lega
nsC
omm
on z
inni
aA
ster
acea
e1’
-4’
1’-2
’W
hite
, pin
k, s
alm
on,
rose
, red
, yel
low
, or
ange
, lav
ende
r, pu
rple
Sun
Reg
ular
��
Tab
le 2
. Ann
uals
for
cool
er a
reas
, inc
ludi
ng h
ighe
r el
evat
ions
in W
yom
ing.
Lat
in n
ame
Com
mon
nam
eFa
mily
Hei
ght
Spre
adFl
ower
col
orE
xpos
ure
Wat
er
Ant
irrh
inum
maj
usSn
apdr
agon
Scro
phul
aria
ceae
6”-3
’6”
-2’
Wid
e ra
nge
avai
labl
eSu
nR
egul
ar
Bra
ssica
ole
race
aeFl
ower
ing
kale
, or
nam
enta
l kal
eB
rass
icac
eae
1’-2
’1’
-2’
Gre
en, r
ed, p
urpl
eSu
n, p
art
shad
eR
egul
ar
Cal
endu
la o
ffici
nalis
Cal
endu
la, p
ot
mar
igol
dA
ster
acea
e1’
-2’
12”-
18”
Cre
am, a
pric
ot,
yello
wSu
nM
oder
ate
Cam
panu
la m
ediu
m (
C.
gran
diflo
ra)
Can
terb
ury
bells
Cam
panu
lace
ae1’
-2’
1’-2
’W
hite
, blu
eSu
n, p
art
shad
eR
egul
ar
Cla
rkia
am
oena
God
etia
Ona
grac
eae
6”-2
4”6”
-12”
Pink
, lav
ende
rSu
nR
egul
ar
Cyn
oglo
ssum
am
abile
Chi
nese
forg
et-
me-
not
Bor
agin
acea
e1’
-2’
1’W
hite
, pin
k, b
lue
Sun
Reg
ular
Dia
nthu
s bar
batu
sSw
eet
Will
iam
Car
yoph
ylla
ceae
18”
1’W
hite
, pin
k, r
ed,
rose
, pur
ple,
bic
olor
Sun,
par
t sh
ade
Reg
ular
Dia
nthu
s car
yoph
yllu
sA
nnua
l car
natio
n,
clov
e pi
nkC
aryo
phyl
lace
ae1’
1’W
hite
, pin
k, r
edSu
nR
egul
ar
Dia
nthu
s chi
nens
isC
hina
pin
ks,
annu
al p
inks
Car
yoph
ylla
ceae
6”-2
4”6”
-10”
Whi
te, p
ink,
red
Sun
Reg
ular
Dim
orph
othe
ca si
nuat
aA
fric
an d
aisy
, cap
e m
arig
old
Ast
erac
eae
4”-1
2”4”
-12”
Whi
te, y
ello
w,
oran
geSu
nM
oder
ate
Esc
hsch
olzi
a ca
lifor
nica
Cal
iforn
ia p
oppy
Papa
vera
ceae
8”-2
4”12
”-18
”W
hite
, yel
low
, or
ange
Sun
Litt
le
Fuch
sia x
hyb
rida
Fuch
sia,
lady
’s
eard
rops
Ona
grac
eae
Som
e up
righ
t,
som
e tr
ailin
g
Var
ies
with
pl
ant
form
Sepa
ls w
hite
, red
, or
pink
; pet
als
whi
te,
purp
le, p
ink,
red
Part
sha
deR
egul
ar
Iber
is um
bella
taG
lobe
can
dytu
ft,
annu
al c
andy
tuft
Bra
ssic
acea
e12
”-15
”9”
Whi
te, p
ink,
ros
es,
crim
son,
sal
mon
, lil
ac
Sun,
par
t sh
ade
Reg
ular
Lant
ana
Lan
tana
Ver
bena
ceae
6”-1
2”1’
-3’
Whi
te, y
ello
w, p
ink,
la
vend
er, o
rang
e, r
edSu
nM
oder
ate
��
Lath
yrus
odo
ratu
sA
nnua
l sw
eet
pea
Faba
ceae
5’ o
r m
ore
3’W
hite
, cre
am,
salm
on, r
ose,
blu
e,
purp
le, s
carl
et
Sun
Reg
ular
Mat
thio
la in
cana
Stoc
k, g
illyfl
ower
Bra
ssic
acea
e1’
-3’
10”-
16”
Whi
te, p
ink,
red
, pu
rple
, lav
ende
r, bl
ue, y
ello
w, c
ream
Sun,
par
t sh
ade
Reg
ular
Mol
ucce
lla la
evis
Bel
ls-o
f-Ir
elan
d,
Iris
h be
llsL
amia
ceae
1’-2
’10
”G
reen
Sun
Reg
ular
Myo
soti
s syl
vati
caFo
rget
-me-
not
Bor
agin
acea
e6”
-12”
2’B
lue
Part
sha
deR
egul
ar
Nem
esia
stru
mos
aN
emes
iaSc
roph
ular
iace
ae18
”1’
All
but
gree
nSu
nR
egul
ar
Ost
eosp
erm
um b
arbe
rae
(Dim
orph
othe
ca b
arbe
rae)
Afr
ican
dai
syA
ster
acea
e4”
-20”
1’-2
’W
hite
, pin
k, p
urpl
eSu
nR
egul
ar
Prim
ula
Ann
ual p
rim
rose
Prim
ulac
eae
Var
ious
Var
ious
Whi
te, c
ream
, pin
k,
yello
w, r
ed, b
lue
Part
sha
de,
shad
eR
egul
ar
Schi
zant
hus p
inna
tus
Poor
man
’s
orch
id, b
utte
rfly
flow
er
Sola
nace
ae18
”1’
Whi
te, p
ink,
ros
e,
lilac
, pur
ple
Part
sha
deR
egul
ar
Sene
cio
cine
rari
a (C
enta
urea
mar
itim
a,
Cin
erar
ia m
arit
ima)
Dus
ty m
iller
Ast
erac
eae
2’-3
’2’
-3’
Gro
wn
for
gray
fo
liage
, flow
ers
yello
w
Sun
Mod
erat
e
Sene
cio
x hy
brid
usC
iner
aria
Ast
erac
eae
1’-2
’1’
-2’
Whi
te, p
ink,
red
, bl
ue, p
urpl
ePa
rt s
hade
, sh
ade
Reg
ular
Stok
esia
laev
isSt
okes
ast
erA
ster
acea
e1’
-2’
18”
Whi
te, b
lue,
pur
ple
Sun
Reg
ular
Sute
ra c
orda
taB
acop
aSc
roph
ular
iace
ae6”
2’-3
’W
hite
, yel
low
, la
vend
erSu
n, p
art
shad
eR
egul
ar
Vin
ca m
ajor
Vin
ca v
ine
Apo
cyna
ceae
Tra
iling
Tra
iling
to
4’G
row
n fo
r va
rieg
ated
folia
ge,
flow
ers
blue
Sun,
par
t sh
ade
Mod
erat
e
Vio
la x
wit
troc
kian
aPa
nsy
Vio
lace
ae6”
-10”
9”-1
2”W
hite
, blu
e, r
ed,
rose
, yel
low
, apr
icot
, pu
rple
Sun,
par
t sh
ade
Reg
ular