lonely planet istanbul lommekjent

lommekjent

BYENS BESTE • LOKALKJENT • HELT ENKELTİSTANBUL

Virginia Maxwell

Oversatt av Lotte Holmboe

00-contents-pk-ist5_NO15.indd 1 01.06.15 12:06

Denne guiden inneholder

For mer informasjon, se Praktiske tips (s. 138)

Valuta Türk Lirası (tyrkisk Lira; ₺)

1 ₺ = ca. NOK 3,00

SpråkTyrkisk

VisumNordmenn må ha visum. Det er enklest

å kjøpe et turistvisum på www.evisa.gov.tr/eng. Ha både med papirutskrift og

elektronisk kopi (på mobil, nettbrett o.l.).

PengerMinibanker er lett tilgjengelige. Betalings

kort aksepteres i de fleste butikker, hoteller og finere restauranter.

MobiltelefonDu kan bruke vanlige, norske mobil telefoner

i Tyrkia, men husk at samtaler inn og ut, tekstmeldinger og ikke minst bruk av

Internett er dyrt.

TidssoneIstanbul ligger en time foran norsk tid og har

også sommertid.

Stikkontakter og adaptereStrømmen holder 230V, så du kan bruke

vanlige, norske stikk og trenger ikke adapter.

Tips10 % er standard på de fleste restauranter.

Rund av drosjeprisen oppover til nærmeste lira.

Ankomst İstanbulTo internasjonale flyplasser betjener byen: Atatürk internasjonale flyplass (s. 140) og Sabiha Gökçen inter nasjonale flyplass (s. 140). Da dette ble skrevet, gikk kun et internasjonalt tog – den daglige Bosfor Ekspresi mellom İstanbul og Bucu res ti, via Sofia – i rute til og fra İstanbul.

A Fra Atatürk internasjonale flyplass

Til Beste transportSultanahmet Metro og trikk

Beyoğlu Havataş flybuss

Bosporusforsteder Drosje

A Fra Sabiha Gökçen internasjonale flyplass

Til Beste transportSultanahmet Drosje

Beyoğlu Havataş flybuss

Bosporusforsteder Drosje

A På flyplasseneAtatürk internasjonale flyplass Det er mini banker, bilutleieservice og telefonselskapkiosker, vekslingskontorer, et døgnåpent apotek, et døgnåpent supermarked, et bagasjeoppbevarings kontor og et PTT (postkontor) i den internasjonale an komsthallen. Det er også en turist infor ma sjon som deler ut kart.

Sabiha Gökçen internasjonale flyplass Det er minibanker, bilutleieservice, vekslingskontorer, et mini marked, et bagasjeoppbevaringskontor og en PTT i den internasjonale ankomsthallen.

Komme seg rundtİstanbul har et omfattende og stort sett effektivt offentlig transportnettverk. Du vil spare tid, penger og mas ved å kjøpe et oppladbart İstanbulkart reisekort (s. 141).

U TrikkTrikkene går fra Bağcılar til Kabataş, ved Taksim Meydanı (Taksimplassen), i Beyoğlu. Under veis stopper de på holdeplasser som Zeytinburnu (korresponderer med flyplassmetroen), BeyazıtKapalı Çarşı (Den store basaren), Sultanahmet, og Eminönü. En annen rute går fra Cevizlibağ, nærmere Sultanahmet på samme linje, til Kabataş.

N FergeBåtene går mellom den asiatiske og europeiske kysten, oppover og nedover Det gylne horn (Haliç) og på langs og på tvers over Bosporusstredet.

K Drosje Rimelig og lett tilgjengelig.

m MetroM1A forbinder Aksaray med flyplassen. M2 går mellom Yenikapı og Taksim, og stopper på Vezneciler ved Den store basaren, på Det gylne hornbroen (Haliç) og ved Şişhane, i nærheten av Tünel Meydanı i Beyoğlu. Fra Taksim går en annen linje nordøstover til Hacıosman. Marmaraylinjen forbinder Kaz lıçeşme, vest for Gamlebyen, med Ayrılak Çeşmesi på Asiasiden. Metroen går via en undervannstunnel og stopper i Yenikapı, Sirkeci og Üsküdar.

U Kabelbane Disse går fra trikkelinjen og gjør turen opp til İstiklal Caddesi i Beyoğlu lett. En forbinder Karaköy med Tünel, mens den andre for binder Kabataş med Taksim Meydanı.

J BussRutene som går langs kysten av Bosporus, er mest interessante for turister. Husk at rutene er lange og at bussene pleier å være stappfulle.

DagsbudsjettMindre enn 500 kr

X Sovesalsseng 100–160 kr

X Kebab eller pidemiddag 70 kr

X Øl i en nabolagsbar 30 kr

Mellomklasse 500–1600 kr X Dobbeltrom fra 550 kr

X Lokantalunsj 100 kr

X Meyhanemiddag (taverna) med vin 280 kr

Det beste, mer enn 1600 kr X Dobbeltrom fra 1500 kr

X Restaurantmiddag med vin 350 kr

X Cocktail på en takbar 80 kr

Nyttige nettsiderNot Only Istanbul (www.notonlyistanbul.com) Guide til byens kunst, mat og kultur.

The Guide Istanbul (www.theguideistanbul.com) Mange hva skjeroversikter.

Yabangee (http://yabangee.com) Utlendinger bosatt her skriver om byen.

Time Out Istanbul (www.timeoutistanbul.com) Mange hva skjeroversikter.

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/istanbul) Info om reisemålet, forum og mer.

Forberedelser hjemmefra X Tre måneder før Hvis du reiser om våren,

høsten eller i julen, bør du bestille hotellet ditt så lenge på forhånd som mulig.

X To måneder før İstanbuls mest popu lære festivaler og konserter blir fort ut solgt. Bestill billetter på Biletix (www.biletix.com).

X To uker før Be hotellet ditt bestille bord på restauranter.

Før du drarVerdt å vite

Verdt å vite 1716

Topkapı-palasset (s. 42)En rekke gale, triste og rett og slett onde sul taner bodde i dette paviljong-palasset i løpet av det osmanske rikets storhets tid. Du kan se restene av deres privilegerte livsstil overalt.

Bosporus-stredet (s. 108)En fergetur nedover det mektige Bosporus-stredet – utstillings-vinduet for en perle-rekke av moskeer, palasser og her skaps hus på både den asiatiske og den europeiske siden av stredet.

Den store basaren (s. 56)Av og til beskrives dette som verdens eldste og mest stemningsfulle kjøpe senter. Det farge-rike og kaotiske, over-dekte markedet er hjer-tet i İstanbuls Gamleby og en av de mest spen-nen de opplevelsene i hele byen.

Aya Sofya (s. 24)Historien gir gjenlyd når du besøker den majestetiske basilikaen Hagia Sofia. Den ble bygd på 500-tallet e.Kr., og den fascinerende arkitekturen om fatter en enorm kuppel og en fantastisk samling bysantinske portretter i mosaikk.

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bygd i 1560 og er nå hjemmet til en orga nisa sjon for tra di sjo nelle håndverk.

5 Sokollu Şehit Mehmet Paşa-moskeenGå mot den travle Alemdar Caddesi og ta så til venstre for å komme til Hippodromen (s. 33). Gå langs den og deretter inn i Şehit Mehmet Paşa Yokuşu. Fortsett nedover Katip Sinan Cami Sokak til du kommer til denne storslåtte moskeen fra osmansk tid, der inte riø ret er prydet av İznik-fliser.

6 Lille Aya SofyaSving mot venstre ned Şehit Çeşmesı Sokak, og ta så til venstre inn i Kadırga Limanı Caddesi, så kommer du snart til Küçük Ayasofya Caddesi, der du finner Lille Aya Sofya (s. 35), en av byens vakreste bysantinske bygninger.

7 SfendonenGå østover langs Küçük Ayasofya Caddesi og fortsett til venstre opp åsen ved Aksakal Caddesi. På toppen finner du den eneste gjen værende, opp bygde

delen av Hippodromen, Sfendonen. Overfor ligger en enorm teppebutikk som heter Nakkaş. Den har en restaurert, bysantinsk cisterne i kjelleren.

8 Arasta-basarenFortsett langs Nakilbent Sokak, sving så til venstre nedover Şifa Hamamı Sokak, ta til venstre inn i Küçük Ayasofya Caddesi og fort sett rett frem til Arasta-basaren, en historisk butikk rekke som før var del av Den blå moskeenkülliye (moské komplekset).

2 RutenTil tross for at de bruker mesteparten av tiden sin i og rundt Sultanahmet, ser de fleste turister stort sett bare hotellet og de største monumentene i det historiske distriktet. Denne byvandringen vil føre deg vekk fra de oppgåtte turistrutene og lede deg til noen mindre kjente osmanske og bysantinske severdigheter.

Start Sultanahmet-parken; USultanahmet

Slutt Arasta-basaren; USultanahmet

Lengde 2,3 kilometer; to timer

5 Ta en pauseDet er en mengde te- og kaffesteder i dette om-rådet, men få er så stemningsfulle som Caferağa Medresesi Çay Bahçesi (s. 53), som ligger i den fredelige bakgården til den historiske medrese (teologiske skolen) med samme navn.

1 Aya Sofya-graveneStart vandringen på Aya Sofya Meydanı (Aya Sofyaplassen) og ta til venstre til Kabasakal Caddesi for å besøke dis se stor slåtte, osmanske gravene (s. 33), fem sultaners siste hvilested.

2 Sultan Ahmet 3s fonteneDenne fontenekiosken i utsøkt rokokkostil (1728) utenfor Topkapı-palasset utdelte i sin tid kalde drikker med vann og şerbet (saft) til tørste reisende.

3 Soğukçeşme Sokak Sving ned denne idylliske brosteinsgaten (s. 49), der du finner gjenoppbygde osmanske trehus og en restau rert, bysantinsk cisterne.

4 Caferağa MedresesiTa til venstre inn i Caferiye Sokak for å besøke denne fine, lille medrese (teologisk skole) bortgjemt i skyggen av Aya Sofya. Den ble bestilt av Süleyman den Stores svarte sjefsevnukk, ble

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¨Billetten koster ₺4, og du kjøper jetons (transport sjetonger) i automater på alle trikke holdeplasser.

Kabelbaney Best dersom du skal ta den bratte turen opp åsen fra alle trikkeholde plassene til İstiklal Caddesi.

¨Kabelbanene sparer pas sa sjerene for den brat te turen fra Karaköy til İstiklal Caddesi. Den tre minutter lange turen kjent som Tünel (₺4) går hvert 5. eller 10. mi nutt fra kl. 07 til 22.45.

Ën annen kabelbane for binder Kabataş trikkestopp med metro stasjonen på Taksim Meydanı. Ruten går mellom kl. 06 og midnatt, og jetons koster ₺4.

Fergey Best dersom du skal på sightseeing, reise på Bosporus og Det gylne horn (Haliç).

¨De viktigste fergekaiene ligger ved munningen av Det gylne horn (Eminönü og Karaköy) og Beşiktaş, et par kilometer nordøst for Galatabroen, ved Dolmabahçepalasset. Det er også travle kaier i

Kadıköy og Üsküdar på den asiatiske (anatolske) siden. Fergene følger mange ruter rundt byen, men følgende brukes ofte av reisende:

Ëminönü–Anadolu Kavağı (Lang Bosporustur); én eller to avganger per dag.

Ëminönü–Kadıköy Omtrent hvert 15. til 20. minutt fra kl. 07.30 til 21.10.

Ëminönü–Üsküdar Omtrent hvert 20. minutt fra kl. 06.35 til 23.

¨Karaköy–Kadıköy Omtrent hvert 20. minutt fra kl. 06.20 til 23.

¨Üsküdar–Karaköy–Eminönü–Kasımpaşa–Hasköy–Ayvansaray–Sütlüce–Eyüp Det gylne horn (Haliç) fergen; hver time fra kl. 07.30 til 19.45, med færre avganger søndager.

¨Jetons koster ₺4 for de fleste turer. Det er også mulig å bruke İstanbulkart på alle ruter, unntatt Bosporusturene. Hoved ferge selskapet er İstanbul Şehir Hatları (İstanbul byruter; www.sehirhatlari.com.tr), men Turyol og Dentur Avraysa tilbyr også cruise på Bosporus og ruter mellom Asia og Europa.

Ankomst İstanbuly Beste tips For den bes te måten å komme til overnattingsstedet ditt på, se s. 17.

Atatürk internasjonale flyplass

Ätatürk internasjonale flyplass (IST, Atatürk Havalımanı; %212-463 3000; www.ataturkairport.com) ligger 23 kilometer vest for Sultanahmet. Dış hatlar (den inter nasjo nale terminalen) og iç hatlar (innenlandsterminalen) ligger side om side.

Ën drosje koster rundt ₺45 fra flyplassen til Sultanahmet, ₺55 til Taksim Meydanı (Taksim Sq).

Ën effektiv metrotjeneste (₺4) går mellom flyplassen og Zeytinburnu. Derfra er det enkel overgang til trik ken (₺4) til Sultanahmet, Eminönü og Kabataş. Fra Kabataş kan du ta en kabel bane (₺4) til Taksim Meydanı. Metrostasjonen ligger i nedre etasje på bakke nivå, under den internasjonale av gangshallen – følg «Metro/Subway»skiltene ned rulletrappen og

gjen nom undergangen. Togene går hvert 2. til 10. minutt fra kl. 06 til mid natt. Hele turen til Sultanahmet tar rundt 60 minutter, 70 minutter til Eminönü og 95 minutter til Taksim.

¨Hvis du bor i Beyoğlu, bør du ta Havataş Airport Bus (₺10). Den går fra ankomst hallen til Cum huriyet Caddesi ved Taksim Meydanı hvert 30. minutt fra kl. 04 til 01. Turen tar mellom 40 mi nutter og en time, avhen gig av trafikken.

Sabiha Gökçen internasjonale flyplass

¨Sabiha Gökçen internasjonale flyplass (SAW, Sabiha Gökçen Havalımanı; %216-588 8888; www.sgairport.com) ligger 50 kilometer øst for Sultanahmet, på Asiasiden av byen, og er popu lær blant europeis ke lavprisselskaper.

Ën drosje koster rundt ₺130 fra flyplassen til Sultanahmet, ₺100 til Taksim Meydanı.

¨Havataş flybuss (₺13) går fra flyplassen til Taksim Meydanı i Beyoğlu mellom kl. 04 og 01. Turen tar omtrent 90

minutter. Hvis du skal til Sultanahmet, må du så ta kabelbanen (₺4) til Kabataş og trikken (₺4) fra Kabataş. Det går også en linje til Kadıköy (₺8, kl. 04.15 til 00.45).

Komme seg rundt

Trikky Best dersom du skal dra mellom Sultanahmet og Beyoğlu.

Ën utmerket tramvay- (trikke) rute går fra Bağcılar, som ligger vest i byen, til Zeytinburnu (der den korresponderer med metroen fra flyplas sen) og videre til Sultanahmet og Eminönü. Deretter krys ser den Galatabroen til Karaköy (for å korrespon dere med Tünel) og Kabataş (for å korre spondere med kabelbanen til Taksim Meydanı). Det går en annen linje fra Cevizlibağ, nærmere Sultanahmet på samme linje, og videre til Kabataş.

¨Det er avganger hvert 5. minutt fra kl. 06 til 24.

Billetter og reisekortDu kan bruke oppladbare İstanbulkart reise kort på de fleste trikker, ferger, busser og metro ruter. De gir store rabatter på billettprisene. Dessuten kan de brukes til å betale for reisen til mer enn én person (et sveip med kortet per person per tur).

Du kan kjøpe kortene i automater på metro og kabelbane stasjoner. Kortet koster ₺10, men det dekker ₺4 reisepenger. Kjøper du kortet ditt i en gatekiosk ved et trikke eller busstopp, koster det ₺8 (uten reisepenger).

Du kan lade kortet med beløp mellom ₺5 og ₺150 i kiosker og på automater ved fergekaier, metroer og busstasjoner.

Komme seg rundt 141140 Praktiske tips

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Aya Sofya og Sultanahmet(s. 22)Den berømte, bysan-tinske basilikaen er ett av mange fantastiske museer og monumen-ter i den gamle bydelen.

HøydepunkterEAya SofyaDen blå moskeenBasilikacisternen

Dolmabahçe-palasset og Ortaköy (s. 98)Overdådige osmanske palasser og super-fasjonable nattklubber ligger i denne privile-gerte og pittoreske delen av kysten langs Bosporus-stredet.

HøydepunkterEDolmabahçe-palasset

Topkapı-palasset og Eminönü (s. 40)En salig blanding av parker, paviljonger, museer og vakre utsikts- punkter gjør de osmanske sultanenes gamle trakter tiltrekkende.

HøydepunkterETopkapı-palassetİstanbuls arkeologiske museum

Den store basaren og området rundt (s. 54)En vandring gjennom det fascinerende dist-riktet byr på historiske basarer, kaotisk shopping og flotte, keiserlige moskeer.

HøydepunkterEDen store basarenSüleymaniye-moskeen

İstiklal Caddesi og Beyoğlu (s. 76)Det svært aktive nabo- laget domineres av İstiklal, byens mest berømte bulevard, og har de beste stedene å spise, drikke og de beste under- holdningsstedene.

HøydepunkterEİstiklal Caddesiİstanbul Modern

Verdt en avstikkerHøydepunkterE

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Aya Sofya og Sultanahmet(s. 22)Den berømte, bysan-tinske basilikaen er ett av mange fantastiske museer og monumen-ter i den gamle bydelen.

HøydepunkterEAya SofyaDen blå moskeenBasilikacisternen

Dolmabahçe-palasset og Ortaköy (s. 98)Overdådige osmanske palasser og super-fasjonable nattklubber ligger i denne privile-gerte og pittoreske delen av kysten langs Bosporus-stredet.

HøydepunkterEDolmabahçe-palasset

Topkapı-palasset og Eminönü (s. 40)En salig blanding av parker, paviljonger, museer og vakre utsikts- punkter gjør de osmanske sultanenes gamle trakter tiltrekkende.

HøydepunkterETopkapı-palassetİstanbuls arkeologiske museum

Den store basaren og området rundt (s. 54)En vandring gjennom det fascinerende dist-riktet byr på historiske basarer, kaotisk shopping og flotte, keiserlige moskeer.

HøydepunkterEDen store basarenSüleymaniye-moskeen

İstiklal Caddesi og Beyoğlu (s. 76)Det svært aktive nabo- laget domineres av İstiklal, byens mest berømte bulevard, og har de beste stedene å spise, drikke og de beste under- holdningsstedene.

HøydepunkterEİstiklal Caddesiİstanbul Modern

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Kariye-museet(Chora-kirken)Bosporus-stredet

İstanbulByens områder

Byens områder 1918

Karaköy fiskemarked (s. 83)

Tips fra de som kjenner byen best

Langs vannkanten i Ortaköy (s. 102)

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Mellom basarene (s. 62)

X Lokal shopping XHistoriske bygninger

De krokete gatene som forbinder den historiske basaren og Krydderbasaren er stappfulle av «istanbullus» alle dager unntatt søndag. Her har lokal befolk ningen handlet og vandlet i mange århundrer og fylt husene sine med varer av enhver tenkelig type. De fleste viser ingen tegn til å ville flytte handlevanene sine til de sjelløse kjøpesentrene som ligger i forstedene. Ta en pause fra ditt besøk i İstanbul for å utforske disse spennende basarene.

En ettermiddag i og rundt Galata (s. 82)

X Fasjonable boutiquer X Bysantinsk kulturarv

I skyggen av områdets middelaldertårn ligger bydelen Galata. Her blandes distriktets historiske bakgrunn (in takte gatebilder og bygninger fra 1800tallet, bysantinske tårn og kirker) med noen av byens beste boutiquer, et stadig større avantgardis tisk kunstmiljø, et travelt fiskemarked og en handels enklave. Bruker du en ettermiddag her, vil du få et glimt av İstanbuls varierte og sammensatte livsstiler.

En helgevandring i Ortaköy (s. 102)

X Snacks- og markedsboder X Utsikt over Bosporus

Den tidligere fisker landsbyen Ortaköy utnyt ter sin fantastiske beliggen het ved Bosporusstredet til fulle. Forstaden brer seg ut fra en plass ved vannet og er full av spisesteder og kafeer. Her finner du en av byens peneste moskeer i tillegg til en stor del av byens befolk ning i helgene. De strømmer hit for å vandre, ta ferge cruisene, kose seg med litt lokal hurtig mat, kikke i bodene på søndagens håndverksmarked og drikke i barene og kafeene.

İstanbuls 14 millioner innbyggere nyter en spennende livsstil som er full av kultur, med et bakteppe av historie, bundet sammen av familien og troen. Dra til deres nabo lag, moskeer, butikker og kafeer, så du får se hva som gjør hverdagslivet deres spesielt.

Andre fine steder hvor man kan oppleve byen som lokalbefolkningen:

Hocapaşa Sokak (s. 51)

Kadınlar Pazarı (s. 66)

Fiskesandwicher på Galata-broen (s. 68)

Mimar Sinan Teras Cafe (s. 70)

Manda Batmaz (s. 90)

Hazzo Pulo Çay Bahçesi (s. 92)

Türkü Evleri (s. 94)

Nargile-kafeer i Tophane (s. 93)

İstanbulLokalkjent

Lokalkjent 1312

Beste bysantinske severdigheterLille Aya Sofya Bygd på keiser Justinians ordre. Er i dag brukt som moské. (s. 35)

Beste graverAya Sofya-gravene Os manske fliser, kalligrafi og dekorative malingsarbeider. (s. 33)

Sultan Ahmet 1s grav Dekorert med fine İznik-fliser fra 1600tallet. (s. 29)

Gravene til Süleyman og Roxelana Førsteklasses 1500tallsfliser og glassmalerier. (s. 61)

Beste gallerier og museerARTER En av byens mest prestisjetunge kunst arenaer, med et utstil lings program med inter nasjonalt preg. (s. 79)

SALT Spennende kultur sentre i Beyoğlu (s. 79) og Galata (s. 83).

Teppemuseet Det var gratis adgang da dette ble skrevet, men det kan bli inngangspenger i frem tiden. (s. 49)

Pera museum Gratis adgang hver fredag mel lom kl. 18 og 22. Ons dager er det dessuten gratis adgang for studenter. (s. 86)

Beste basarer og markederDen store basaren Et av verdens eldste og mest stemningsfulle kjøpesentre. (s. 56)

Krydderbasaren Følg massene til dette eldgamle handelsstedet ved Eminönükaien. (s. 66)

Balık Pazarı Beyoğlus historiske råvaremarked selger langt mer enn bare balık (fisk). (s. 79)

Karaköy Balık Pazarı Dagens fangst selges på Det gylne horns bredder. (s. 83)

Kadınlar Pazarı Mar ked for ferske råvarer i Fatih, der lokale kadınlar (kvinner) gjør sine daglige innkjøp. (s. 66)

Beste for smårollingerGülhane-parken Vel utstyrt leke plass og masse plass å løpe på. (s. 49)

Hippodromen Stor åpen plass å løpe rundt på. (s. 33)

Fergeturer De små elsker å gå ombord i en av byens utallige ferger. (s. 141)

Beste for større barnBosporus-cruise Se etter monumenter fra begge sider av båten. (s. 108)

Rumeli Hisarı Barn elsker borg! Bare sørg for at de små ridderne og prin sessene ikke går for nær kanten av fest ningsvollene. (s. 110)

Basilikacisternen Den er skummel (skikkelig kul!), og barn kan ut forske gang veiene som henger over vannet. (s. 30)

Hafız Mustafa Kaker, bakverk og iskrem. Nam. (s. 52)

Beste for tenåringerİstanbul Modern Mange utstillinger – også mange med multimedia – som vil more og engasjere ungdommen. (s. 80)

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Hippiene og backpackerne som strømmet til İstanbul i 1960- og 1970-årene ville nok sprengt de små budsjettene sine hvis de hadde dratt hit i dag. Heldigvis balanseres de stadig høyere prisene på hotellrom, transport og mat av en mengde førsteklasses severdigheter du kan besøke gratis. Blant annet kan du se gallerier, museer, kirker, moskeer og graver.

gratisBeste

y Beste tips fBarn under 12 får

gratis eller rabat tert adgang til de fleste museer og monumenter.

fBarn under sju år reiser gratis på offent lig transport.

fDe fleste fortau har brostein, så tril ler er ikke særlig nyttige – ta heller med en bæremeis til minstemann.

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Hvis du vil ha en familievennlig byferie, er İstanbul det perfekte alternativet. Barna dine vil kanskje klage over de mange moskeene og museene på dagens plan, men de blir fort blid gjort med de fantastiske baklava, lokum («Turkish delight») og dondurma (iskrem) de kan smake på, for ikke å snakke om alle borgene, underjordiske cis ternene og parkene som venter på å bli utforsket.

for barnBeste

Beste gratis 135134 Beste for barn

I nødstilfellerAmbulanse (%112)

Brann (%110)

Politi (%155)

Turistpoliti (%212-527 4503; Yerebatan Caddesi 6)

Offentlige høytidsdagerNyttårsdag 1. januar

Nasjonal selvstendig het- og barnedag 23. april

Arbeidets og solida-ritetens dag 1. mai

Ungdoms- og sports dag til minne om Atatürk 19. mai

Seiersdag 30. august

Republikkens dag 29. oktoberReligiøse festivaler feires etter den muslims ke månekalenderen hijri. To av dem (Şeker Bayramı og Kurban Bayramı) er også offent lige høytidsdager. Şeker Bayramı er en tre dager lang festival på slut ten av Ramazan (Ramadan) og Kurban Bayramı, årets viktigste religiøse fei ring, er en fire dager lang festival. Datoen endres hvert år. I løpet av disse feiringene er banker og konto rer stengt og hoteller, busser, tog og fly er fullbooket.

Penger ¨Valutaen er Türk Lirası

(tyrkiske lira; ₺).

¨Minibanker er lett tilgjengelige.

¨De fleste hoteller, bilut leie firmaer, butikker, apo teker, underholdningssteder og restauranter tar Visa og MasterCard. Amex er mindre vanlig, og Diners blir sjelden akseptert. Billige spisesteder tar ofte kun kon tanter.

¨Døgnåpne döviz bürosus (vekslings byråer) i ankomsthallen på flyplassene har normalt gode veks lingskurser.

¨Gi ti prosent tips på restau ranter og ₺2 per kolli til pikkoloer. I drosjer runder du opp til nærmeste ₺1.

Reisende med bevegelseshemninger

¨ İstanbul kan være ut fordrende for reisende med bevegelseshemninger. Veiene er fulle av hull og fortauene er ofte skjeve og sprekke te. Heldigvis prøver byen å gjøre noe med dette.

¨Museer som drives av regjeringen er gratis for bevegelseshemmede besø kende. Topkapıpalasset, İstanbul arkeologiske museum, İstanbul Modern og Pera museum er tilpasset rullestoler og har handicaptoaletter. De tre sist nevn te severdighetene har også noen fasili teter som hjelper syns hemmede.

Äll offentlig transport er gratis for bevegelseshemmede, og metroen og trikkene er rullestoltilgjengelige.

Drosjey Best dersom du reiser om kvelden og natten eller hvis du har dårlig tid.

¨Drosjeprisene er svært gode (fra Sultanahmet til Taksim Meydanı koster rundt ₺15) og det er ingen pristillegg om kvelden.

Ïgnorer drosjesjåfører som insisterer på en fast pris, siden de er mye høy ere enn det du må betale hvis taksameteret brukes. Styr unna drosjesjåfører som venter på tur ved siden av Aya Sofya Meydanı – de er ofte ute etter å lure deg.

¨Husk at få drosjer har sikkerhets belter.

¨Hvis du tar en drosje over en av broene over Bos porus, er det ditt ansvar å betale bom pen gene (₺3,40). Sjåføren vil legge sum men til prisen.

Metroy Best når du skal til og fra flyplassen.

¨Metroen har avganger hvert 2. til 10. minutt mellom kl. 06 og 24. Jetons koster ₺4. Gå til www.istanbululasim.com.tr for kart over metronettet.

¨M1A går fra Aksaray til flyplassen, og stopper på 15 stasjoner underveis, deri blant otogar (hoved

busstasjonen). Det er planer om å lage en forbindelse mellom Aksaray og Yenikapı, sør vest for Sultanahmet.

¨M2 går fra Yenikapı til Taksim og stopper ved tre stasjoner underveis: Vezneciler ved Den store basaren, på den nye broen over Det gylne horn (Haliç) og i Şişhane, ved Tünel Meydanı i Beyoğlu. Fra Taksim går en annen rute nord østover til Hacıosman via ni stasjoner.

Ën fjerde linje, som kalles Marmaray, går fra Kazlıçeşme, vest for Gamlebyen, til Ayrılak Çeşmesi på den asia tiske siden. Denne ruten går under Marmarahavet i en tunnel og stopper ved Yenikapı, Sirkeci og Üsküdar underveis. Linjen korresponderer med metro M4, som går mellom Kadıköy og Kartal.

Bussy Best dersom du skal utforske lands byene langs Bosporus.

¨De viktigste otobus (buss) stasjonene er på Taksim Meydanı (underjordisk), Beşıktaş, Eminönü, Kadıköy og Üsküdar.

¨De fleste rutene går fra kl. 06 til 23.

¨Du må ha et İstanbulkart reisekort (se s. 141) før du går ombord.

¨For rutetabeller og traséinformasjon for bussene, se hjemmesiden til İstanbul Elektrik Tramvay ve Tünel (İETT, Istanbuls elek trisitets-, trikke- og tunnel-kontor; www.iett.gov.tr).

Viktig info A–Å

Elektrisitet

230V/50Hz

Tips for å spare penger ¨Hvis du planlegger å besøke tre eller flere mu

seer, kjøp et Museum Pass İstanbul (s. 144).

¨ İstanbulkart på store rabatter på offentlige transportpriser (₺2,15, i motsetning til de vanlige ₺4, med ekstra overgang i løpet av to timer; ₺1,60 for første overgang, ₺1,50 for andre og ₺1,30 for tredje).

¨Sjekk om hotellet ditt tilbyr gratis henting og bringing til flyplassen.

Viktig info A–Å 143142 Praktiske tips

Lynguide til IstanbulHjelp til å forstå Istanbul – hva du bør gjøre og hvordan

Praktiske tipsPraktiske tips og triks – bl.a. om hoteller

HøydepunkterFå mest mulig ut av besøket

Komme seg rundtsom lokalbefolkningen

LokalkjentKjennernes Istanbul

Viktig informasjonom åpningstider, etc.

İstanbul på sitt besteTematiske lister over byens høydepunkter: Lett å planlegge!

Opplev İstanbulDet beste du kan se og gjøre, område for område

Verdt å viteTips for en best mulig reise

ByvandringerOpplev byen gatelangs

Byens områderHva du finner hvor

Byens bestekafeer, barer, underholdning ...


Spesielt anbefalt – se etter disse merkene!

1 Severdigheter

5 Spise

6 Drikke

3 Underholdning

7 Shopping

Lonely Planets İstanbul Lonely Planets Lommekjent-guider er spesiallagd for å ta deg rett til hjertet av byen.

Her finner du severdig-hetene du bare må få med deg, samt tipsene som gjør besøket ekstra minneverdig. Vi har delt byen opp i områder det er enkelt å manøvrere i, med et brukervennlig kart for hvert av områdene. Lonely Planets ekspertforfatter har sjekket ut alt det beste ved byen: byvandringer, mat, natteliv og shopping, for å nevne noe. Lokalkjent-sidene hvisker deg i øret hva som er ekstra genuint og spennende å utforske.

Her får du selvsagt de nød-vendige, praktiske tipsene for at alt skal gå som smurt under-veis: reiserute-forslag, hvordan komme seg rundt, hvor mye driks du bør gi på ulike steder.

Boka er din garanti for de virkelig store opplevelsene.

GarantiDu kan stole på alle anbefalin-ger i Lonely Planets guider fordi forfatterne våre besøker hvert eneste sted vi skriver om, også i forkant av nye utgaver. Vi tar aldri imot noe gratis fra noen, og forteller deg uhildet hvordan tingene faktisk er.

Disse symbolene gir deg praktisk infor-masjon om de anbefalte stedene:

% Telefonnummerh Åpningstiderp Parkeringn Ikke-røyki Internett-tilgangW Wi-Fi-tilgangv Vegetariske retter på menyenE Engelskspråklig meny

c Familievennlig# Kjæledyrvennligg Bussf Fergem Metrob Subway/T-banej Trikkd Tog

Finn hver anbefaling kjapt – på kart for hvert område:

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For omtale, se:E Høydepunkter s. 48æ Severdigheter s. 58ú Spise s. 60û Drikke s. 63ý Underholdning s. 64þ Shopping s. 66

Louvre, Tuileries og Opéra56verkene, iskremen og de ikke-søte delikatessene lages på stedet. Noen av dem er spesialiteter som er oppfunnet her, som baba rhum (brioche dynket i rom) og puit d’amour (butterdeig fylt med krem og toppet med karamell). (www.stohrer.fr, på fransk; 51 rue Montorgueil, 2e; retter €11,50–14,90; h07.30–20.30; mÉtienne Marcel eller Sentier)

L’Escargot FRANSK €€€

21 5 Kart s. 56 , G4

En enorm gullsnegle pryder den skog grønne fasaden til dette fredede monu mentet. Du fi nner også snegler på menyen, sammen med froske lår, biff chateaubriand med béarnaise saus, kalve brissel og hummer fra Bretagne fl ambert i whisky. Her har alle fra Proust til Bogie og Bacall vært gjester. (%01 42 36 33 51; 38 rue Montorgueil, 1er; menyer €80–150; hlunsj søn–fre, middag daglig; mLes Halles)

Drikke Harry’s New York Bar BAR

22 6 Kart s. 56 , C2

Denne skjønnheten av en mahogni bar er visstnok stedet vi har å takke for Bloody Mary. Drinken ble opp funnet her i 1921, etter at tomat juice på boks var blitt populært. (Harry’s fant også opp Blue Lagoon i 1960, men det kan vi tilgi dem.) I piano baren i kjelleren spilles det jazz klassikere. (www.harrys-bar.fr; 5 rue Daunou, 2e; h12.00–02.00 søn–

tor, til 03.00 fre og lør, pianobar 22.00–02.00 tir–tor, til 03.00 fre og lør; mOpéra)

Bar Hemingway BAR

23 6 Kart s. 56 , C2

Ifølge legenden skal Hemingway, be-væpnet med en maskinpistol, ha vært med på å frigjøre denne baren med trepanel på veggene og skinntrukket bar under andre verdenskrig. I dag er Ritz’ praktstykke fullt av bilder tatt av Papa. Her får du også byens beste mar ti nier. Et sted for fi nstasen. (www.ritzparis.com; Hôtel Ritz Paris, 15 place Vendôme, 1er; h18.30–02.00; mConcorde eller Madeleine)

Angelina SALON DE THÉ

24 6 Kart s. 56 , C3

Tesalongen i belle époque-stil fra 1903 ligger under rue de Rivolis søyle gang. Den er så berømt for sin luksuriøse, afrikanske varme sjokolade (serve res med en skål pisket krem) at køen ofte står ut døren. (www.angelina-paris.fr, på fransk; 226 rue de Rivoli, 1er; h07.30–19.00 man–fre, fra 08.30 lør og søn; mTuileries)

Verjus VINBAR

25 6 Kart s. 56 , E3

Den nyskapende matelskerduoen bak denne nyåpnede vinbaren serverer fi ffi g barmat. Da dette ble skrevet, var planen å åpne en restau rant ved siden av. Dette er et sted å holde øye med. (www.verjusparis.com; 47 rue de Montpensier, 1er; h18.00–23.00 man–lør; mTuileries)

63Drikke

Ifølge legenden skal væpnet med en maskinpistol, ha værtmed på å frigjøre denne baren med trepanel på veggene og skinntrukketbar under andre verdenskriger Ritz’ praktstykke fullt tatttattta av Pav Pav apa. Her får du også byens beste marti nier. Et sted for (www.ritzparis.com; Hôtel Ritz PVendômeVendômeV , 1er; h18.30–02.eller Madeleine)

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For omtale, se:E Høydepunkter s. 48æ Severdigheter s. 58ú Spise s. 60û Drikke s. 63ý Underholdning s. 64þ Shopping s. 66

Louvre, Tuileries og Opéra56


Lynguide tilİstanbul 7Høydepunkter .......................8Lokalkjent ............................. 12På fire dager ........................14Verdt å vite ...........................16Kart: byens områder ..........18

Opplev İstanbul 21

Verdt en avstikker:Kariye-museet (Chora-kirken) ............. 74Bosporus-stredet .................................108

Topkapı-palasset og Eminönü

Aya Sofya og Sultanahmet

Den store basaren og området rundt

İstiklal Caddesi og Beyoğlu

Dolmabahçe-palasset og Ortaköy

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İstanbulpå sitt beste 113Byens beste vandringerI Sultanahmet ....................................... 114Den osmanske gamlebyen ..................116I bohemske Beyoğlu ............................118

Byens besteMat ......................................................... 120Drikke .................................................... 122Arkitektur .............................................. 124Hamamer .............................................. 126Nargile-kafeer ........................................127Museer og gallerier .............................. 128Utsikter .................................................. 129Shopping ...............................................130Natteliv .................................................. 132For barn ................................................. 134Gratis ..................................................... 135Kulinariske turer og matkurs.............. 136

Praktisketips 137Før du drar .........................138Ankomst İstanbul............. 140Komme seg rundt ............ 140Vitkig info A–Å ...................142Språk ..................................147


Record Name:LPT0214_107.jpg Caption:Food stalls on square beside Bosphorus. Country:Turkey Province/State:Istanbul City:Istanbul Photographer:Matt Munro

01-quickstart-pk-ist5_NO15.indd 6 01.06.15 12:07

Gatematboder ved Den nye moskeen (s. 66)MATT MUNRO/LONELY PLANET ©

Høydepunkter ��8

Lokalkjent �� 12

På fire dager �� 14

Verdt å vite �� 16

Kart: byens områder �� 18

Velkommen til İstanbul

I İstanbul finner du unike opplevelser rundt et hvert gatehjørne. Her danser dervisjer, müezziner roper om kapp fra minaretene og folk reiser fra verdensdel til ver densdel mange ganger daglig. I byen, med årtusen gamle monumenter og banebrytende kunstgallerier (av og til i samme kvartal), er det å spise, drikke og danse viktige måter å oppleve byen på – og alle blir budt med på festen!

Lynguide til İstanbul

7

01-quickstart-pk-ist5_NO15.indd 7 01.06.15 12:07

Aya Sofya (s. 24)Historien gir gjenlyd når du besøker den majestetiske basilikaen Hagia Sofia. Den ble bygd på 500-tallet e.Kr., og den fascinerende arkitekturen om fatter en enorm kuppel og en fantastisk samling bysantinske portretter i mosaikk.

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Turkey, Istanbul, Sultanahmet. Interior of Haghia Sophia with domed ceiling and decorative mosaic tiled wallsCredit: Eric TEISSEDRE

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Topkapı-palasset (s. 42)En rekke gale, triste og rett og slett onde sul taner bodde i dette paviljong-palasset i løpet av det osmanske rikets storhets tid. Du kan se restene av deres privilegerte livsstil overalt.

Bosporus-stredet (s. 108)En fergetur nedover det mektige Bosporus-stredet – utstillings-vinduet for en perle-rekke av moskeer, palasser og her skaps hus på både den asiatiske og den europeiske siden av stredet.

Den store basaren (s. 56)Av og til beskrives dette som verdens eldste og mest stemningsfulle kjøpe senter. Det farge-rike og kaotiske, over-dekte markedet er hjer-tet i İstanbuls Gamleby og en av de mest spen-nen de opplevelsene i hele byen.

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GettyOttoman room , Topkapi Palace, IstanbulCredit: Mark Horn

Turkey, Istanbul, ferry travelling past mosqueCredit: Grant Faint

Istanbul, Grand BazaarCredit: Siegfried Layda

Høydepunkter 9


Kariye-museet (Chora-kirken) (s. 74)Flotte ting kan skjule seg i små pakker. Denne bitte lille, bysantins ke kirken er ekstraordinær på grunn av interiøret, som er stappfullt av utsøkte mosaikker og fresker.

İstanbul arkeologiske museum (s. 46)En variert, spennende samling anti kviteter, klassiske skulpturer, os-mans ke flis arbeider og bysan tins ke gjen stan der er utstilt i museums-komp lekset ved siden av Topkapı.

Süleymaniye-moskeen (s. 60)Den keiserlige moskeen på toppen av byens fjerde høyde fortjener virkelig merkelappen «levende historie». En av få moskeer som er bevart, restaurert og hvor de opprinnelige byg nin gene rundt gudshuset er gjenbrukt på en kreativ måte.

İstiklal Caddesi (s. 78)En vandring langs denne bilfrie bulevarden fra 1800-tallet er en erketypisk İstanbul-opplevelse som gir deg et fargerikt øyeblikks bilde av livet i storbyen.

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Turkey, Istanbul, Saint Sauveur in Chora church (Kariye MCredit: Emilie CHAIX

Interior of Archeological Museum.Caption:Istanbul, Istanbul, Turkey, Middle EastCredit: John Sones Singing Bowl Media

Interior of Suleymaniye Mosque, UNESCO World Heritage Site, Istanbul, Turkey, EuropeCredit: Neil Farrin

Turkey, Istanbul, Beyoglu, Taksim district, Istiklal Caddesi shopping street is crossed by an ancient tram backCredit: GARDEL Bertrand / hemis.fr

10 Høydepunkter


İstanbul Modern (s. 80)İstanbul har et av verdens mest spennende miljøer for moderne kunst, og dette galleriet, som lig ger i et ombygd lagerhus ved Bos porus, er kunstmiljøets frems-te scene. (Under: False Ceiling av Richard Wentworth.)

Dolmabahçe-palasset (s. 100)Palasset ved Bosporus – bygd i det osmanske ri kets nedgangstid, uten at dét synes – gir et glimt av sultanenes kuns tige verden og overdådige smak.

Basilikacisternen (s. 30)En arkitektonisk tour de force og genial ingeniørkunst. Den stemningsfullt opplyste, under jor-diske cisternen er et av İstanbuls mest mystiske og storslagne bysantinske monumenter.

Den blå moskeen (s. 28)Den mest fotogene av İstanbuls kei serlige moskeer er elsket av både turister og fastboende. Den er også et av byens travleste religiøse steder.

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Dolmabahce Palace, Dolmabahce, Istanbul, TurkeyCredit: Salvator Barki

Basilica Cistern (aka Yerebatan or Yerbatan Sarnici), Underground cistern system, Istanbul, TurkeyCredit: Danita Delimont

urkey, Istanbul, Sultanahmet dis-trict, classified as World Heritage by UNESCO, Sultan Ahmet Camii (Blue Mosque)Credit: DOZIER Marc

Høydepunkter 11


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Mellom basarene (s. 62)

X Lokal shopping X Historiske bygninger

De krokete gatene som forbinder den historiske basaren og Krydderbasaren er stappfulle av «istanbullus» alle dager unntatt søndag. Her har lokal befolk ningen handlet og vandlet i mange århundrer og fylt husene sine med varer av enhver tenkelig type. De fleste viser ingen tegn til å ville flytte handlevanene sine til de sjelløse kjøpesentrene som ligger i forstedene. Ta en pause fra ditt besøk i İstanbul for å utforske disse spennende basarene.

En ettermiddag i og rundt Galata (s. 82)

X Fasjonable boutiquer X Bysantinsk kulturarv

I skyggen av områdets middelaldertårn ligger bydelen Galata. Her blandes distriktets historiske bakgrunn (in takte gatebilder og bygninger fra 1800tallet, bysantinske tårn og kirker) med noen av byens beste boutiquer, et stadig større avantgardis tisk kunstmiljø, et travelt fiskemarked og en handels enklave. Bruker du en ettermiddag her, vil du få et glimt av İstanbuls varierte og sammensatte livsstiler.





İstanbulLokalkjent

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Karaköy fiskemarked (s. 83)

Tips fra de som kjenner byen best

Langs vannkanten i Ortaköy (s. 102)

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GettyThe waterfront at Ortakoy, one of the pretty Bosphorus Villages in Istanbul, TurkeyCredit: Julian Love

Fishmarket at Galata Bridge, Istanbul, TurkeyCredit: Reinhard Dirscherl

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Andre fine steder hvor man kan oppleve byen som lokalbefolkningen:

Hocapaşa Sokak (s. 51)

Kadınlar Pazarı (s. 66)

Fiskesandwicher på Galata-broen (s. 68)

Mimar Sinan Teras Cafe (s. 70)

Manda Batmaz (s. 90)

Hazzo Pulo Çay Bahçesi (s. 92)

Türkü Evleri (s. 94)

Nargile-kafeer i Tophane (s. 93)

İstanbulLokalkjent

Lokalkjent 13

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lonely planet istanbul lommekjent

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