lommekjent

BYENS BESTE • LOKALTIPS • HELT ENKELTBARCELONA

Regis St Louis

Oversatt av Jens Holmboe og Lotte Holmboe

00-contents-pk-bar4_NO14.indd 1 13.01.15 10:20

Denne guiden inneholder

For mer informasjon, se Praktiske tips (s. 175).

ValutaEuro (€)

SpråkSpansk (kastiljansk) og katalansk

VisumNordmenn og statsborgere i EU-land og

andre land i Schengen-samarbeidet trenger ikke visum for besøk i inntil

90 dager.

PengerMinibanker er lett tilgjengelige.

Betalingskort aksepteres i de fleste hoteller, restauranter og butikker.

MobiltelefonDu kan bruke vanlige, norske mobiltelefoner

i Spania, men husk at samtaler inn og ut, tekstmeldinger og ikke minst bruk av

Internett er dyrt.

TidssoneBarcelona ligger i samme tidssone

som Norge.

Stikkontakter og adaptereStrømmen holder 230V, så du kan bruke

vanlige norske stikk og trenger ikke adapter.

TipsLitt vekslepenger (€1 per person på

restauranter) og avrunding oppover (i drosjer) er vanligvis tilstrekkelig.

Ankomst i Barcelona

De fleste ankommer Aeroport del Prat (www.barcelona-airport.com) 12 km sørvest for byen. Noen fly lander på Aeroport de Girona–Costa Brava (www.girona-airport.net) 90 km nord for Barcelona. Hovedjernbane stasjonen er Estació de Sants 2,5 km vest for La Rambla.

A Fra Aeroport del Prat

Til Beste transportBarri Gòtic A1 Aerobús;

Metro (linje 3)

El Raval A1 Aerobús; Metro (linje 3)

La Ribera A1 Aerobús; Metro (linje 1, 4)

La Barceloneta A1 Aerobús; Metro (linje 1, 4)

L’Eixample R2 Nord tog

A Fra Aeroport de Girona–Costa Brava

Til Beste transportBarri Gòtic Barcelona Bus;

Metro (linje 1, 3)

El Raval Barcelona Bus; Metro (linje 1, 3)

La Ribera Barcelona Bus

La Barceloneta Barcelona Bus; Metro (linje 1, 4)

L’Eixample Barcelona Bus; Metro (linje 1, 3)

På flyplasseneAeroport del Prat Ankomsthallene i terminal 1 og 2 har minibanker og turistinformasjon.

Aeroport de Girona–Costa Brava Det er minibanker ved bagasjebåndene og i ankomsthallen.

Komme seg rundtBarcelona har et effektivt og omfattende offentlig transportsystem. I tillegg til å kjøre inn til byen fra flyplassen er metroen (www.tmb.net) best for å komme seg rundt i byen. Til noen områder i utkanten suppleres metroen av FGC-forstadstogene (www.fgc.net). Praktisk nok har de samme billett-system (som også bussene har). Det blir billigere å kjøpe 10-turersbilletten T-10 (€10,30) enn å kjøpe enkeltbilletter.

m MetroÅtte fargekodede metrolinjer krysser Barce-lona sentrum på kryss og tvers. Det er metro-stasjoner rundt gamlebyen (Barri Gòtic, El Raval og La Ribera), og metroen bringer deg til utkanten av La Barceloneta. Det er også stasjoner over hele L’Eixample.

L FGCForstadstognettet er spesielt nyttig til Ped ral-bes, Sarrià og Gràcia. I sentrum er det stasjo ner på Passeig de Gràcia og Plaça de Catalunya.

U KabelbaneEn skinnegående kabelbane (del av metro-syste met) forbinder stasjonen Paral·lel Metro med stasjonene oppover Montjuïc-åsen. Disse ekstrastasjonene er del av Telefèric de Mont juïc og krever egne billetter og bringer deg opp til toppen. Kabelbanen Transborda-dor Aeri forbinder La Barceloneta med Montjuïc.

K DrosjeDu kan praie drosjer på gaten, men du kan også ringe og bestille en. Utenom rushtiden kan det være praktisk å ta en drosje hvis du skal tvers over byen.

H SykkelBarcelona har over 180 km sykkelveier. Byen har mange steder du kan leie sykler, men husk at de røde «Bicing»-syklene er forbe-holdt Barcelonas innbyggere.

DagsbudsjettMindre enn €100

X Sovesal €15–20; hostal dobbelt €50–70

X Billigere treretters lunsj menú del día

X Sightseeing på tider med gratis adgang

Mellomklasse €100–200 X Dobbeltrom €75–150

X Lunsj på bra restaurant €40 for to

X Bruk rabattkort for å holde utgiftene nede

Det beste, mer enn €200 X Dobbeltrom i topphotell fra €150

X Finere restaurantmiddag fra €50 per person

Nyttige nettsider X Barcelona Turisme (www.barcelonatur

isme.com) Byens offisielle turistnettside.

X Miniguide (miniguide.es) Restauranter og barer, eventer og teateranmeldel ser.

X Barcelona Metropolitan (www.barcelona -metropolitan.com) Åpning av nye restauran-ter, utelivsanmeldelser og byprofiler.

X Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/barcelona) Informasjon om reisemålet, hotellbestilling, reiseforum og mer.

Forberedelser hjemmefraTre måneder før Bestill hotell tidlig for å øke utvalget og redusere prisen. Helger kan bli utsolgt flere måneder på forhånd.

En måned før Bestill et bord på Tickets tapasbar (www.ticketsbar.es) eller Cinc Sentits restaurant (www.cincsentits.com).

En uke før Bestill billett på Internett til La Sagrada Família og Museu Picasso for å unngå køer når du kommer dit.

Før du drarVerdt å vite

Verdt å vite 1716

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ParkGüell

Museu Nacionald'Art de Catalunya

La SagradaFamília

La Pedrera

CasaBatlló

La Rambla

Mercat dela Boqueria

FundacióJoanMiró

Camp Nou ogMuseu del

FC Barcelona La Catedral

Basílica de SantaMaria del Mar

MuseuPicasso

La Rambla og Barri Gòtic (s. 22)Barcelonas gamleby kombinerer den be- rømte La Rambla med smale middelaldergater og monumentale bygg.

Høydepunkter1La RamblaLa Catedral

El Raval (s. 42)Det tidligere havnedis-triktet har et fabelaktig marked, barer og restau- ranter, flotte kunst- gallerier og en uvanlig Gaudí-godbit.

Høydepunkter1Mercat de la Boqueria

La Ribera og Parc de la Ciutadella (s. 54)La Ribera har et herlig marked, strålende arkitektur, og dessuten El Born-distriktet – Barcelonas synonym for alt som er kult.

Høydepunkter1Museu PicassoBasílica de Santa Maria del Mar

Barceloneta og strendene (s. 74)Barcelona slik den en- gang var med sin gamle kultur med fiske, og en betydelig mer strålende ny strandkultur.

Passeig de Gràcia og L’Eixample (s. 86)Opplev modernista- skatter, utsøkte barer og restauranter og en shoppers paradis på høyde med Paris.

Høydepunkter1La PedreraCasa Batlló

Montjuïc, Poble Sec og Sant Antoni (s. 114)Montjuïc er en egen ver- den med museer, borg og olympiske minner. Poble Sec og Sant Antoni er gastrosentre.

Høydepunkter1Museu Nacional d’Art de CatalunyaFundació Joan Miró

Camp Nou, Pedralbes og Sarrià (s. 132)FC Barcelonas hjemme- bane, 1300-tallskloster og Sarrià, Barcelonas morsomste landsby.

Høydepunkter1Camp Nou og Museu del FC Barcelona

Verdt en avstikkerHøydepunkter1

La Sagrada FamíliaPark Güell

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ParkGüell

Museu Nacionald'Art de Catalunya

La SagradaFamília

La Pedrera

CasaBatlló

La Rambla

Mercat dela Boqueria

FundacióJoanMiró

Camp Nou ogMuseu del

FC Barcelona La Catedral

Basílica de SantaMaria del Mar

MuseuPicasso

La Rambla og Barri Gòtic (s. 22)Barcelonas gamleby kombinerer den be- rømte La Rambla med smale middelaldergater og monumentale bygg.

Høydepunkter1La RamblaLa Catedral

El Raval (s. 42)Det tidligere havnedis-triktet har et fabelaktig marked, barer og restau- ranter, flotte kunst- gallerier og en uvanlig Gaudí-godbit.

Høydepunkter1Mercat de la Boqueria

La Ribera og Parc de la Ciutadella (s. 54)La Ribera har et herlig marked, strålende arkitektur, og dessuten El Born-distriktet – Barcelonas synonym for alt som er kult.

Høydepunkter1Museu PicassoBasílica de Santa Maria del Mar

Barceloneta og strendene (s. 74)Barcelona slik den en- gang var med sin gamle kultur med fiske, og en betydelig mer strålende ny strandkultur.

Passeig de Gràcia og L’Eixample (s. 86)Opplev modernista- skatter, utsøkte barer og restauranter og en shoppers paradis på høyde med Paris.

Høydepunkter1La PedreraCasa Batlló

Montjuïc, Poble Sec og Sant Antoni (s. 114)Montjuïc er en egen ver- den med museer, borg og olympiske minner. Poble Sec og Sant Antoni er gastrosentre.

Høydepunkter1Museu Nacional d’Art de CatalunyaFundació Joan Miró

Camp Nou, Pedralbes og Sarrià (s. 132)FC Barcelonas hjemme- bane, 1300-tallskloster og Sarrià, Barcelonas morsomste landsby.

Høydepunkter1Camp Nou og Museu del FC Barcelona

Verdt en avstikkerHøydepunkter1

La Sagrada FamíliaPark Güell

BarcelonaByens områder

Byens områder 1918

Casa de les Punxes (s. 98)

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Modernista-Barcelona 145

1 Casa AmatllerOm Barcelona har et motstykke til Champs Elysées, så er det Passeig de Gràcia. Her finner du noen særegne moder­nista­innfall. Casa Amatller (s. 96), et mester verk av Josep Puig i Cadafalch med ekko fra nord europeiske gavler, er et av dem.

2 Casa BatllóDu vet at du har kommet til Casa Batlló (s. 90) når du snubler over dusinvis av forbi­passerende som stirrer oppover fasaden med en blanding av ærefrykt og munterhet. De fleste får samme reaksjon inne, der Gaudí setter fore­stillingen om interiør helt på hodet.

3 Fundació Antoni Tàpies Fundació Antoni Tàpies (s. 96) er en mur steins­ og jernbyg­ning tegnet av Domène­ch i Montaner. Den har islamsk­inspirerte detal jer og nærmest humo ris tiske elementer. Legg merke til det livlige kaoset som snor seg over taket. Avdøde Antonio Tàpies fant på det selv. Det er hans

samling malerier som er utstilt inne i huset.

4 La PedreraLitt lenger oppover bakken langs Passeig de Gràcia er La Ped rera (s. 88) prydet med en tilsvarende fin fasade i beste Gaudí­tradisjon. Men det er interiø­ret (loftet er som å komme inn i et fossil og leilighe ten gir deg følelsen av å bo i en drøm) og hustaket som forvandler denne bolig­blokken til en genistrek.

5 Palau del Baró QuadrasModernistaene ble in­spi rert av alt fra gotiske til orientalistiske stiler, og du finner dem alle demonstrert i Palau del Baró Quadras (s. 98). Det er skapt av det ruvende modernista­geniet Puig i Cadafalch.

6 Casa de les PunxesDet er ingen steder der modernista­ estetikken møter den barnaktige levendegjøringen av et eventyr så tydelig som i Puig i Cadafalchs Casa de les Punxes (s. 98). Tårnene minner om heksehatter i dette borg­

lignende eksem pelet på en ny gotisk drøm.

7 La Sagrada FamíliaIkke noe kan sidestilles med La Sagrada Família (s. 107). Gaudís uferdige mesterverk er et av

verdens fremste arki tek­toniske mesterverker, og på samme tid modernista­stilens høydepunkt og et verk så fullstendig originalt at det kan fortjene sin egen kategori.2 Ruten

Modernista-arkitekturen er Barcelonas mest iøynefallende signatur, og hovedsakelig Antoni Gaudís verk. Eksempler på denne arkitekturen er spredt rundt i hele byen, men L’Eixample har den største kon sen tra sjonen. Med bølgende fasader, uvirkelige interiø rer, fanta si ful le hustak og ikke en eneste rett linje i sikte er modernista-L’Eixample ulik alle andre bylandskaper på jorden. Denne vandrin-gen viser hvorfor mange ikke kan få nok av denne fantastiske byen.

Start Plaça de Catalunya; mCatalunya

Slutt La Sagrada Família; mSagrada Família

Lengde 3 km; tre timer

5 Ta en pauseBarcelonas tapaskokker er det samme for moderne kokekunst som Gaudí var for tidlig 1900- tallsarkitektur, og det eksemplifiseres aller best i Tapas 24 (s. 99).

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Modernista-Barcelona

Beste vandringer

144

Estació de Sants (hoved­jern bane stasjonen, 20 minutter) og Passeig de Gràcia (25 til 30 minutter) i Barcelona sentrum. Stasjonen på flyplassen ligger fem minutters gange fra terminal 2.

¨En drosje til sentrum (rundt 30 minutter, av­hen gig av trafikken) koster €25 til €30.

Aeroport de Girona–Costa BravaGirona–Costa Brava flyplass (%902 404704; www.aena.es) ligger 12 km sør for Girona og 92 km nordøst for Barcelona. Det er turistkontor, mini­banker og hittegods disker i første etasje.

¨Sagalés (%902 130014; www.sagales.com) driver ruten Barcelona Bus (%902 130014; www.barcelonabus.com) mellom Girona flyplass og Estació del Nord buss tasjon i Bar­ce lona (én vei/tur–retur €14/21, 70 minutter).

Reus flyplassReus flyplass (%902 404704; www.aena.es) lig ger 13 km vest for Tarragona og 108 km sørvest for Barcelona. Turistkonto ret og hittegodsdisken ligger

i hovedterminal byg nin­gen.

¨Hispano-Igualadina (%902 292900; www.igualadina.net; Estació Sants) kjører busser mellom Reus flyplass og Estació d’Autobusos de Sants i forbindelse med flighter (90 minutter, én vei/tur–retur €15/26).

Komme seg rundt

Sykkely Best for... Natur skjøn­ne turer langs kysten.

¨Barcelona har over 180 km sykkelstier.

¨Det går en sti nord­østover langs kysten fra Barceloneta til Port Olímpic og videre til Riu Besòs.

¨Du kan leie sykler mange steder, særlig i Barri Gòtic og La Ribera. Husk at de røde «Bicing»­bysyklene er forbeholdt Barcelonas innbyggere.

¨Hverdager (unntatt mellom klokken 07 og 09.30 og klokken 17 og 20.30) kan du ta med deg sykkelen på metroen. I helgene, på helligdager og i juli og august kan du ta med sykkelen hele døgnet.

Bussy Best for… Nattreise.

¨TMB-busser (%010; www.tmb.net) går fra klok­ken 05 eller 06 til 23, avhengig av linjen. Mange

boutiqueskjønnhet med nyde lige rom og fin ut sikt over L’Eixample fra tak­terrassen.

Beste topphoteller

Hotel Neri (www.hotelneri.com) Fantastisk oppusset middel alder­herskaps hus med utsikt over en av Barcelonas fredeligste plasser.

DO (www.hoteldoreial.com) Flott designede rom, takterrasse (med bar om sommeren), et lite basseng, spa og «marked til bord»­restaurant.

Hotel Mercer (www.mercerbarcelona.com) Overdådige designer­rom med middelalder­elementer. Også en indre hage, lite basseng på taket, en stilfull cocktail­lounge og førsteklasses restaurant.

Casa Camper (www.casacamper.com) Museumsaktig foajé og stilfulle rom med Vinçon­møbler og smart design. Taket byr på flott utsikt over byen.

Hotel Casa Fuster (www.hotelcasafuster.com) Dette overdådige modernista­herskaps­huset har små,

overdådige rom med detaljer fra gamle dager.

Beste leiligheter for korte opphold

Airbnb (www.airbnb.com) Se gjennom mange hundre annonser for ledige rom eller hele leiligheter lokalbefolk­ningen leier ut over hele byen. Pris per natt i et ganske bra område starter rundt €30 for et rom og €75 for en leilighet.

Aparteasy (www.aparteasy.com) Utmerket utvalg leiligheter med sentral beliggenhet. De spenner fra små og utdaterte til store og luksuriøse.

Feel at Home Barcelona (www.feelathomebarcelona.com) Liten, nøye utvalgt gruppe leiligheter til leie i La Rambla, El Raval og Sarrià.

Friendly Rentals (www.friendlyrentals.com) Denne erfarne operatøren tilbyr flere titalls alternativer av høy kvalitet over hele byen.

Ankomsty Beste tips For den beste måten å komme til ditt overnattingssted, se s. 17.

Aeroport del PratBarcelonas El Prat flyplass (%902 404704; www.aena.es) ligger 17 km sørvest for Plaça de Catalunya. Flyplassen har to hoved terminal­byg nin ger: den nye T1­terminalen og den eldre T2, som igjen er delt inn i tre terminalområder (A, B og C). Hovedturist-kontoret (h08.30–20.30) ligger i første etasje av terminal 2B, og det er andre kontorer i første etasje av terminal 2A og terminal 1. De har samme åpningstider.

¨A1 Aerobús (én vei/tur–retur €5,90/10,20; h06–01) går fra flyplassen til Plaça de Catalunya (30 til 40 minutter) via Plaça d’Espanya og Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes hvert femte til tiende minutt. Kjøp billetter på bussen eller fra automatene på flyplassen.

¨R2 Nord-tog (én vei €4,10; h05.4–23.38) går fra flyplassen hver halv­time, med flere stopp før

Transportbilletter og reisekort ¨Targetes er flerreisebilletter som selges på

de fleste metrostasjoner. Med dem sparer du tid og penger. En T­10­billett (€10,30) dekker ti turer på metro, busser og FGC­tog, mens en T­DIA (€7,60) gir deg ubegrenset reise på alle transport midler i én dag.

¨Hola BCN! to­/tre­/fire­/femdagers billetter dekker alle reise på all transport unntatt Aerobús og koster €14/20/25,50/30,50.

Komme seg rundt 179178 Praktiske tips

Park Güell (s. 112)Gaudís lekne kreativitet tar fart i denne parken, som ser ut som den vokser frem fra et barns fantasi om utrolig sære konstruksjoner og overnaturlig store dyreformer.

La Catedral (s. 28)Barcelonas katedral har gjennom de mange århundrene vært et dystert og stille vitne til byens historie. Den er et ruvende byggverk med en særegen og monumental skjønnhet og en raffinert borggård med tretten gjess.

La Rambla (s. 24)Det er få bilfrie hoved­gater som kan kon­kurrere med La Rambla. Den skjærer en rift gjennom gamle byen i Barcelona og ned til kysten av Middelhavet. La Rambla er et lerret, en catwalk og en scene på én og samme tid.

La Sagrada Família (s. 106)Like mye et tempel til arki tek turens originalitet som til Gud. Gaudís mo­dernista­mesterverk er nylig vigslet og samtidig et helt eksepsjonelt og stadig pågående arbeid.

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BarcelonaHøydepunkter

Høydepunkter 9Høydepunkter 98

Tips fra dem som kjenner byen best

Barri Gòtic (s. 22)

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gater og gir plass til byens fashion-mekka. Men L’Eixamples geni-strek er å ha fått frem en shoppingkultur med størst hengivenhet reser-vert for lokale navn innen design, møbler og kvalitetsfottøy.

Landsbyliv i Gràcia (s. 110)

X Plazaer i gammel stil X Markeder og barer

I kanten av Barcelonas sentrum, og likevel for seg selv, ligger Gràcia med sin blan ding av gammelt og nytt, med flere tiår gamle marke-der, plasser, barer og restauranter ved siden

av ultrahippe designer-boutiquer. Og det er slik lokal befolk ningen liker det – mang foldig og ukon vensjonelt. Natteliv i Sant Antoni og Poble Sec (s. 122)

X Terrassebarer X Tapas

De bilfrie smugene i Poble Sec ligger rett under det ruvende fjel let Montjuïc. De er fulle av tapas steder og bohems-ke drikkebuler. Ute livet fortsetter på den andre siden av brede Av del Paral·lel, i Sant Antoni. Der er det utekafeer og kreative tapasbarer.

En Barri Gòtic-søndag (s. 30)

X Lokale markeder X Tradisjonell dans

I den mest turistpregede delen av byen tar lokal-befolkningen tilbake sitt barrio (nabolag) på søn-dager. Bli med til 1300- tallskirken der Gaudí en gang ble arrestert, og opplev deretter enkle lokale markeder, besøk katalanske maktikoner og oppsøk tidløse lokale spisesteder.

Festing i El Raval (s. 46)

X Tradisjonens bastioner XGrusveier

El Raval er Barcelonas mest mangfoldige bydel, på samme tid stilfull og lett lurvete slik havnebyer

har vært gjennom år-hundrene. Fra det for-finede til det bohemske er det en reise gjennom kulturer og motkulturer med av stikkere til tidløse kata lanske klassikere på veien.

Tapas og barer i El Born (s. 62)

X TapasbarerSlik lokalbefolkningen opplever det, dreier mye av livet i Barce lona seg om mat, og El Born, som er en trang trekant av middelaldergater nær sørenden av La Riberas, er et av byens beste (og peneste) steder å gå ut for å nyte tapas og drinker.

Sjø og sjømat (s. 76)

X Fiskerestauranter X Strender

Som et bolverk av travle barer og fiskerestauranter der gammeldags tilbered-ning råder, har den gamle fisker befolkningens distrikt, La Barceloneta, holdt fast ved sine tra-disjoner. Men det skin-nende nye Barcelona har festet grepet om stren-dene og marinaene om-kring. Det er to svært ulike verdener som møtes i den samme byen.

Shopping i Quadrat d’Or (s. 92)

X Designerboutiquer X Gourmetbutikker

Passeig de Gràcia er en av Europas fineste shopping-

Hvis du virkelig ønsker å oppleve Barcelona og ikke bare krysse av for byens hoved-attraksjoner, vil vi vise deg hvordan lokalbefolkningen opplever byen sin – tradisjo-nelle tapasbarer og loppemarkeder, tradisjonelle katalanske danser og lokale vannhull som ikke har endret seg på mange tiår.

Andre steder å opp leve byen som lokalbefolkningen:

Barri Gòtics kafeer (s. 40)

Gamle Hospital de la Santa Creu (s. 52)

Strandbarer (s. 85)

Parc de la Ciutadella (s. 66)

Speakeasy (s. 99)

Filmoteca de Catalunya (s. 51)

El Passadís del Pep (s. 69)

Carrer de Blai (s. 130)

Sarrià (s. 138)

Aire de Barcelona (s. 70)

BarcelonaLokalkjent

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Raïm Gamle vinfat, grå­sprengte Gràcia­beboere og et kjærlighetsforhold til Cuba. (s. 111)

Beste cocktailbarerBoadas Cocktail­favoritten til Hemingway og Miró. (s. 51)

Dry Martini Dresskledde servitører og perfekte dry martinier i L’Eixample. (s. 103)

Juanra Falces Kelnere i hvite jakker serverer kreative eliksirer. (s. 71)

Beste stilstederOcaña Fin beliggenhet på Plaça Reial og vakkert designet interiør. (s. 38)

Sor Rita Følg feststemte gjester inn i et snodig, Almodovar­aktig uni vers. (s. 38)

Beste vinbarerMonvínic Med over 3000 vinmerker har du nok å velge i her. (s. 93)

La Vinya del Senyor Mer enn 350 viner og perfekte omgivelser. (s. 71)

Beste cavabarerEl Xampanyet Ingen steder finner du kombi­nasjonen av tapas og cava bedre enn i denne El Born­baren fra 1930­årene. (s. 63)

Can Paixano Tidløs Barceloneta­cava bar for ren, frydefull glede. (s. 76)

Beste musikkbarerBar Pastís Bar på størrelse med en sko­eske og med musikk fra fransk kabaret til tango. (s. 53)

Manchester Britpop fra 1980­årene og andre britiske klassikere. (s. 40)

Beste bohemstederGran Bodega Saltó Psykedelisk dekor, live­musikk og sammensatt publikum. (s. 123)

Absenta Absintdrevet drikkebule med merke­lige skulpturer. (s. 84)

Oviso Festlig sted med konstant god stem ning på Plaça de George Orwell. (s. 39)

Tinta Roja Intim og lav belysning med et heftig utvalg live forestillinger. (s. 123)

Rouge Lab 2.1 Bordell­aktig bar som er kjent for sine surrealistiske fore­stillinger. (s. 123)

Barcelona er virkelig byen for alle som elsker uteliv, med et fristende utvalg barer med leven de lys, gammeldagse vertshus og stilfulle lounger der moroa fortsetter til langt på natt. Stemnin­gen varierer enormt – utelivsmiljøet dekker skyggefulle kamre dekket av veggmalerier i middelalderbyen, ombygde butikklokaler fulle av antikviteter og hektiske modernista­steder.

BarområderDet er barer på nærmest hvert eneste gatehjørne i Barcelona, og alle nabolag har sitt lokale vann­hull. Men du finner den største konsentrasjonen av livlige drikkesteder i Barri Gòtic, El Raval, La Ribera (spesielt El Born) og L’Eixample.

Vin- og cavabarerDe stadig flere vinbarene som er spredt utover byen er som et utstillingsvindu for de deilige drikke varene som lages i Spania og andre land. De druedominerte stedene serverer et enormt utvalg viner per glass, med ekstra fokus på førsteklasses nye årganger. En stor del av opp level sen er å ta deg et par matbiter til drikken. Se for deg deletallerkener, ost­ og spekematasjetter og rikelig med tapas.

StrandbarerOm sommeren blir små strandbarer i tre, som har fått kjælenavnet chiringuitos, satt opp langs stranden fra Barceloneta og helt til Platja de la Nova Mar Bella. Her kan du begrave føttene i sand, ta deg litt snacks og kose deg med en cocktail (eller en forfriskende cava sangria) mens du betrakter bylivet spille seg ut mot Middelhavets bakteppe.

Beste barer med historieCasa Almirall Barcelonas eldste bar i kontinuerlig drift og med fine periodedetaljer. (s. 52)

Bar Marsella De har opp­levd det meste i denne røffe 1800­talls baren i El Raval. (s. 47)

La Confitería Fin­de­siècle­sted i El Raval som byr på en lekker husets vermut. (s. 52)

Les Gens Que J’Aime Romantisk levning fra 1960­årenes L’Eixample, med levende lys og røde fløyelssofaer. (s. 103)

Beste lokale barerVaso de Oro Slik Barce­loneta var før. (s. 77)

Rubí Flotte spesial drin­ker bortgjemt i et smalt smug i El Born. (s. 71)

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til noen av byens mer særpregede hoteller.

Barcelona Turisme (www.barcelonaturisme.com) Turistkontor med be­stillings tjeneste til over 300 steder å bo.

Oh-Barcelona (www.oh-barcelona.com) Mer enn 800 hoteller og leiligheter å velge mellom.

Beste lavpris

Alberg Hostel Itaca (www.itacahostel.com) Et lyst, rolig vandrerhjem ved La Catedral med livlig stemning og mange aktiviteter (pubrunder, flamencokonserter, gratis daglig gåtur).

Pensión Francia (www.pensionfrancia­barce lona.com) Gammel dags og rent vandrerhjem med elleve rom. Flott belig­gen het like ved stranden, Parc de la Ciutadella og utelivet i El Born.

Fashion House (www.bcnfashionhouse.com) Leilig het i L’Eixample som består av åtte rom i ulik størrelse. Fin innred­ning, med høyt til taket, parkettgulv og, i noen tilfeller, en liten balkong ut mot gaten.

Amistat Beach Hostel (www.amistatbeach hostel.com) Lite, fint designet vandrerhjem med en lounge full av sakko sekker. Ligger ved stran den og restau ran­tene i Poblenou (nordøst for Barceloneta).

Inout Hostel (www.in outhostel.com) Vennlig vand rerhjem med vakker beliggenhet. Sterk sosial etikk (nesten alle de an sat te har funksjons­hem ninger). Restaurant og mange fasiliteter, men langt utenfor sentrum.

Pensió 2000 (www.pensio2000.com) Dette familiedrevne stedet har relativt store dobbelt­rom med mosaikkgulv og egne bad. Du kan spise fro kost i den lille bakgården.

Beste mellomklasse

Five Rooms (www.thefiverooms.com) Fem sjarmerende rom i L’Eixample. Alle har unikt design. Store senger med fast madrass, nakne mur­steins vegger, restau rerte mosaikkfliser og minima­listisk innredning.

Hotel Banys Orientals (www.hotelbanysorien tals.com) Dette designer hotellet med sterk magnetisme har små rom i kjølige blå og akvamarinnyanser. De kombineres med gulv i mørke toner.

Chic & Basic Ramblas (www.chicandbasicram blashotel.com) Anner­ledes og kunstnerisk, med en gammel bil i lob byen og fargerike rom som på sitt vis hyller livet i Barcelona rundt 1960. Alle rom har balkon ger og små kjøkken.

Hotel Sant Agustí (www.hotelsa.com) Dette tidli gere klosteret fra 1700­tallet ligger like ved La Rambla. De glinsende rommene er generelt store og fulle av lys.

Cami Bed & Gallery (www.camibedand gallery.com) Dette luksus­B&B­et ligger i en flott modernista­bygning ved Plaça Catalunya. Rom mene er luftige, med høyt til taket og stil fulle designdetaljer, men bare et av dem har eget bad.

Hotel Constanza (www.hotelconstanza.com) En

Bestill overnatting på forhånd

¨ Innkvartering i Barce­lona er et knapt gode hele året, så bestill alltid så lang tid i forveien som mulig.

¨Forholdet mellom pris og kvalitet er generelt bra i Barcelona, men prisene kan dobles i helgene og under viktige festivaler og messer.

¨Bor du i Barri Gòtic, El Raval eller La Ribera, er du midt i begivenhetenes sentrum, men nettene kan være bråkete og lange fra torsdag og gjennom helgen.

¨L’Eixample kan være stillere, mens La Barcelo­ne ta er perfekt hvis du skal være på stranden.

Nyttige websiderLonely Planet (www.lonely planet.com/spain/barcelona) Finn anbefalte hoteller og bestill online.

Splendia (www.splendia.com) God for å finne frem

¨Sommer (jun–aug) Varmt badevann, men ofte oversvømmet av tilreisende i juli og august; lokalbefolkningen forlater byen i august.

¨Høst (sep–nov) September er en av de beste månedene for et besøk; sjanse for regn i oktober og november.

¨Vinter (des–feb) Nettene kan være kjølige, og det er sjanse for regn, men det er få tilreisende, og du kan oppleve solskinnsdager.

¨Vår (mar–mai) En fin tid for et besøk. Overkommelig antall til­reisende, men regn er mulig i april og mai.

Før du drar

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Praktiske tipsPraktiske tips og triks – bl.a. om hoteller

HøydepunkterFå mest mulig ut av besøket

Verdt å viteTips for en best mulig reise

Komme seg rundtsom lokalbefolkningen

LokalkjentKjennernes Barcelona

Byens områderHva du finner hvor

Viktig informasjonom åpningstider, etc.

Lynguide til BarcelonaHjelp til å forstå Barcelona – hva du bør gjøre og hvordan

Barcelona på sitt besteTematiske lister over byens høydepunkter: Lett å planlegge!

Opplev BarcelonaDet beste du kan se og gjøre, område for område

ByvandringerOpplev byen gatelangs

Byens bestekafeer, barer, underholdning ...

00-contents-pk-bar4_NO14.indd 2 13.01.15 10:20

Spesielt anbefalt – se etter disse merkene!

1 Severdigheter

5 Spise

6 Drikke

3 Underholdning

7 Shopping

Lonely Planets BarcelonaLonely Planets Lommekjent-guider er spesiallagd for å ta deg rett til hjertet av byen. Her finner du severdighetene du bare må få med deg, samt tipsene som gjør besøket ekstra minneverdig. Vi har delt byen opp i områder det er enkelt å manøvrere i, med et brukervennlig kart for hvert av områdene. Lonely Planets ekspertforfatter har sjekket ut alt det beste ved byen: byvandringer, mat, natteliv og shopping, for å nevne noe. Lokalkjent-sidene hvisker deg i øret hva som er ekstra genuint og spennende å utforske. Her får du selvsagt de nød-vendige, praktiske tipsene for at alt skal gå som smurt under-veis: reiserute-forslag, hvordan komme seg rundt, hvor mye driks du bør gi på ulike steder. Boka er din garanti for de virkelig store opplevelsene.

GarantiDu kan stole på alle anbefalinger i Lonely Planets guider fordi forfatterne våre besøker hvert eneste sted vi skriver om, også i forkant av nye utgaver. Vi tar aldri imot noe gratis fra noen, og forteller deg uhildet hvordan tingene faktisk er.

Disse symbolene gir deg praktisk informasjon om de anbefalte stedene:

% Telefonnummerh Åpningstiderp Parkeringi Internett-tilgangW Wi-Fi-tilgangv Vegetariske retter

på menyen

c Familievennlig# Kjæledyrvennligg Bussf Fergem Metro/T-banej Trikkd Tog

Finn hver anbefaling kjapt – på kart for hvert område:

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For omtale, se:E Høydepunkter s. 48æ Severdigheter s. 58ú Spise s. 60û Drikke s. 63ý Underholdning s. 64þ Shopping s. 66

Louvre, Tuileries og Opéra56verkene, iskremen og de ikke-søte delikatessene lages på stedet. Noen av dem er spesialiteter som er oppfunnet her, som baba rhum (brioche dynket i rom) og puit d’amour (butterdeig fylt med krem og toppet med karamell). (www.stohrer.fr, på fransk; 51 rue Montorgueil, 2e; retter €11,50–14,90; h07.30–20.30; mÉtienne Marcel eller Sentier)

L’Escargot FRANSK €€€

21 5 Kart s. 56 , G4

En enorm gullsnegle pryder den skog grønne fasaden til dette fredede monu mentet. Du fi nner også snegler på menyen, sammen med froske lår, biff chateaubriand med béarnaise saus, kalve brissel og hummer fra Bretagne fl ambert i whisky. Her har alle fra Proust til Bogie og Bacall vært gjester. (%01 42 36 33 51; 38 rue Montorgueil, 1er; menyer €80–150; hlunsj søn–fre, middag daglig; mLes Halles)

Drikke Harry’s New York Bar BAR

22 6 Kart s. 56 , C2

Denne skjønnheten av en mahogni bar er visstnok stedet vi har å takke for Bloody Mary. Drinken ble opp funnet her i 1921, etter at tomat juice på boks var blitt populært. (Harry’s fant også opp Blue Lagoon i 1960, men det kan vi tilgi dem.) I piano baren i kjelleren spilles det jazz klassikere. (www.harrys-bar.fr; 5 rue Daunou, 2e; h12.00–02.00 søn–

tor, til 03.00 fre og lør, pianobar 22.00–02.00 tir–tor, til 03.00 fre og lør; mOpéra)

Bar Hemingway BAR

23 6 Kart s. 56 , C2

Ifølge legenden skal Hemingway, be-væpnet med en maskinpistol, ha vært med på å frigjøre denne baren med trepanel på veggene og skinntrukket bar under andre verdenskrig. I dag er Ritz’ praktstykke fullt av bilder tatt av Papa. Her får du også byens beste mar ti nier. Et sted for fi nstasen. (www.ritzparis.com; Hôtel Ritz Paris, 15 place Vendôme, 1er; h18.30–02.00; mConcorde eller Madeleine)

Angelina SALON DE THÉ

24 6 Kart s. 56 , C3

Tesalongen i belle époque-stil fra 1903 ligger under rue de Rivolis søyle gang. Den er så berømt for sin luksuriøse, afrikanske varme sjokolade (serve res med en skål pisket krem) at køen ofte står ut døren. (www.angelina-paris.fr, på fransk; 226 rue de Rivoli, 1er; h07.30–19.00 man–fre, fra 08.30 lør og søn; mTuileries)

Verjus VINBAR

25 6 Kart s. 56 , E3

Den nyskapende matelskerduoen bak denne nyåpnede vinbaren serverer fi ffi g barmat. Da dette ble skrevet, var planen å åpne en restau rant ved siden av. Dette er et sted å holde øye med. (www.verjusparis.com; 47 rue de Montpensier, 1er; h18.00–23.00 man–lør; mTuileries)

63Drikke

Ifølge legenden skal væpnet med en maskinpistol, ha værtmed på å frigjøre denne baren med trepanel på veggene og skinntrukketbar under andre verdenskriger Ritz’ praktstykke fullt tatttattta av Pav Pav apa. Her får du også byens beste marti nier. Et sted for (www.ritzparis.com; Hôtel Ritz PVendômeVendômeV , 1er; h18.30–02.eller Madeleine)

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For omtale, se:E Høydepunkter s. 48æ Severdigheter s. 58ú Spise s. 60û Drikke s. 63ý Underholdning s. 64þ Shopping s. 66

Louvre, Tuileries og Opéra56

00-contents-pk-bar4_NO14.indd 3 13.01.15 10:20

Lynguide til Barcelona 7Høydepunkter .......................8Lokalkjent ............................. 12På fire dager ........................14Verdt å vite ...........................16Kart: byens områder ..........18

Opplev Barcelona 21

Verdt en avstikkerLa Sagrada Família .......... 106Landsbyliv i Gràcia ............ 110Park Güell ............................112

El Raval

La Rambla og Barri Gòtic

La Ribera og Parc de la Ciutadella

Barceloneta og strendene

Passeig de Gràcia og L’EixampleMontjuïc, Poble Sec og Sant Antoni

Camp Nou, Pedralbes og Sarrià

42

22

54

74

86

114

132

00-contents-pk-bar4_NO14.indd 4 13.01.15 10:20

Barcelonapå sitt beste 141Byens beste vandringerGamlebyen på en dag .................. 142Modernista-Barcelona ................ 144Matelskerens Barcelona ............. 146

Byens besteRestauranter .................................. 148Shopping ........................................ 150Tapas ...............................................152Arkitektur ....................................... 154Kunst og design .............................156Parker og strender .........................158Sport og aktiviteter ....................... 160Utsikter ............................................ 161Museer ............................................162For barn .......................................... 164Turer ............................................... 166Gratis ...............................................167Barer ............................................... 168Kafeer ..............................................170Klubber ............................................172For homofile og lesbiske ...............173Konsertsteder ................................174

Praktisketips 175Før du drar ......................... 176Ankomst i Barcelona ........ 178Komme seg rundt ............. 179Viktig info A–Å ...................180Språk ..................................184

00-contents-pk-bar4_NO14.indd 5 13.01.15 10:20

01-quickstart-pk-bar4_NO14.indd 6 13.01.15 10:20

Vindeltrapp i La Sagrada Família (s. 106)CHRIS MELLOR/GETTY IMAGES ©

Høydepunkter .....................................................8

Lokalkjent ........................................................... 12

På fire dager ....................................................... 14

Verdt å vite ..........................................................16

Kart: byens områder .........................................18

Velkommen til Barcelona

Barcelona er kanskje den kuleste byen på jorden. Den er stilbevisst og alltid moteriktig og er et sted der det avantgardistiske og det tradisjonelle daglig kolliderer med spektakulær effekt. Det er her Gaudí møter gotikken, der mat er livet i all sin herlige kompleksitet, og der kunsten (også kunsten å nyte livet) alltid har hovedrollen.

Lynguide til Barcelona

7

01-quickstart-pk-bar4_NO14.indd 7 13.01.15 10:20

La Sagrada Família (s. 106)Like mye et tempel til arki tek turens originalitet som til Gud. Gaudís mo­dernista­mesterverk er nylig vigslet og samtidig et helt eksepsjonelt og stadig pågående arbeid.

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BarcelonaHøydepunkter

8

02-top-sights-pk-bar4_NO14.indd 8 13.01.15 10:20

Park Güell (s. 112)Gaudís lekne kreativitet tar fart i denne parken, som ser ut som den vokser frem fra et barns fantasi om utrolig sære konstruksjoner og overnaturlig store dyreformer.

La Catedral (s. 28)Barcelonas katedral har gjennom de mange århundrene vært et dystert og stille vitne til byens historie. Den er et ruvende byggverk med en særegen og monumental skjønnhet og en raffinert borggård med tretten gjess.

La Rambla (s. 24)Det er få bilfrie hoved­gater som kan kon­kurrere med La Rambla. Den skjærer en rift gjennom gamle byen i Barcelona og ned til kysten av Middelhavet. La Rambla er et lerret, en catwalk og en scene på én og samme tid.

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BarcelonaHøydepunkter

Høydepunkter 9Høydepunkter 9

02-top-sights-pk-bar4_NO14.indd 9 13.01.15 10:20

Església de Santa Maria del Mar (s. 60)Den skyhøye, gotiske kirken er en studie i grasiøs harmoni, symmetri og enkelhet. Den er en sterk kandi­dat til tittelen som vårt yndlingssted for gudstjenester i denne byen.

Casa Batlló (s. 90)Selv Gaudí overgikk seg selv med denne fantasifulle boligblokken: en forbløffende konfekt av bølgende balkonger, fargede fliser, optiske illusjoner og snodde skorsteiner langs Barcelonas flotteste bulevard.

Museu Picasso (s. 56)Denne utsøkte samlingen av Pablo Picassos tidlige arbeider er kunst­nerens varige gave til byen han elsket – en spennende studie av Picassos søken etter en helt egen stil.

Mercat de la Boqueria (s. 44)Et av Europas beste råvare marke­der og dessuten sentrum for Bar ce­lonas kulinariske kultur. Her finner du summende tapasbarer og unike katalanske matvarer under samme tak.

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Lyahna to purchase Viscopy Fee

10 Høydepunkter10 Høydepunkter

02-top-sights-pk-bar4_NO14.indd 10 13.01.15 10:20

Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya (s. 116)Dette er Barcelonas fineste kunst­samling med venetianske re nes­sanse mestere, romanske skatter fra de katalanske Pyreneene samt kunst.

La Pedrera (s. 88)Gå ikke glipp av Gaudís fjerde modernista­ gave til byen. Det er en bolig blokk som er spesiell både ute og inne, et bygg verk som gir hallu­sinasjoner og blir bedre jo høyere du kommer.

Fundació Joan Miró (s. 120)Museum med den fineste og mest omfattende samling av Joan Mirós kunst. Miró er en av Barcelonas mest popu lære sønner og var en ruvende skikkelse i 1900­tallets katalanske kunst.

Camp Nou og Museu del FC Barcelona (s. 134)Blant templer og hellig grunn er få på høyde med FC Barcelonas hjemme bane når det gjelder liden­skap. Den er en av jordens fremste idrettsarenaer og et valfartsmål.

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Høydepunkter 11Høydepunkter 11

02-top-sights-pk-bar4_NO14.indd 11 13.01.15 10:20

Tips fra dem som kjenner byen best

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gater og gir plass til byens fashion-mekka. Men L’Eixamples geni-strek er å ha fått frem en shoppingkultur med størst hengivenhet reser-vert for lokale navn innen design, møbler og kvalitetsfottøy.

Landsbyliv i Gràcia (s. 110)

X Plazaer i gammel stil X Markeder og barer

I kanten av Barcelonas sentrum, og likevel for seg selv, ligger Gràcia med sin blan ding av gammelt og nytt, med flere tiår gamle marke-der, plasser, barer og restauranter ved siden

En Barri Gòtic-søndag (s. 30)

X Lokale markeder X Tradisjonell dans

I den mest turistpregede delen av byen tar lokal-befolkningen tilbake sitt barrio (nabolag) på søn-dager. Bli med til 1300- tallskirken der Gaudí en gang ble arrestert, og opplev deretter enkle lokale markeder, besøk katalanske maktikoner og oppsøk tidløse lokale spisesteder.

Festing i El Raval (s. 46)

X Tradisjonens bastioner X Grusveier

El Raval er Barcelonas mest mangfoldige bydel, på samme tid stilfull og lett lurvete slik havnebyer

har vært gjennom år-hundrene. Fra det for-finede til det bohemske er det en reise gjennom kulturer og motkulturer med av stikkere til tidløse kata lanske klassikere på veien.

Tapas og barer i El Born (s. 62)

X TapasbarerSlik lokalbefolkningen opplever det, dreier mye av livet i Barce lona seg om mat, og El Born, som er en trang trekant av middelaldergater nær sørenden av La Riberas, er et av byens beste (og peneste) steder å gå ut for å nyte tapas og drinker.

Sjø og sjømat (s. 76)

X Fiskerestauranter X Strender

Som et bolverk av travle barer og fiskerestauranter der gammeldags tilbered-ning råder, har den gamle fisker befolkningens distrikt, La Barceloneta, holdt fast ved sine tra-disjoner. Men det skin-nende nye Barcelona har festet grepet om stren-dene og marinaene om-kring. Det er to svært ulike verdener som møtes i den samme byen.

Shopping i Quadrat d’Or (s. 92)

X Designerboutiquer X Gourmetbutikker

Passeig de Gràcia er en av Europas fineste shopping-

Hvis du virkelig ønsker å oppleve Barcelona og ikke bare krysse av for byens hoved-attraksjoner, vil vi vise deg hvordan lokalbefolkningen opplever byen sin – tradisjo-nelle tapasbarer og loppemarkeder, tradisjonelle katalanske danser og lokale vannhull som ikke har endret seg på mange tiår.

BarcelonaLokalkjent

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03-local-life-pk-bar4_NO14.indd 12 13.01.15 10:20

Tips fra dem som kjenner byen best

Barri Gòtic (s. 22)

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gater og gir plass til byens fashion-mekka. Men L’Eixamples geni-strek er å ha fått frem en shoppingkultur med størst hengivenhet reser-vert for lokale navn innen design, møbler og kvalitetsfottøy.

Landsbyliv i Gràcia (s. 110)

X Plazaer i gammel stil X Markeder og barer

I kanten av Barcelonas sentrum, og likevel for seg selv, ligger Gràcia med sin blan ding av gammelt og nytt, med flere tiår gamle marke-der, plasser, barer og restauranter ved siden

av ultrahippe designer-boutiquer. Og det er slik lokal befolk ningen liker det – mang foldig og ukon vensjonelt. Natteliv i Sant Antoni og Poble Sec (s. 122)

X Terrassebarer X Tapas

De bilfrie smugene i Poble Sec ligger rett under det ruvende fjel let Montjuïc. De er fulle av tapas steder og bohems-ke drikkebuler. Ute livet fortsetter på den andre siden av brede Av del Paral·lel, i Sant Antoni. Der er det utekafeer og kreative tapasbarer.

Sjø og sjømat (s. 76)

X Fiskerestauranter X Strender

Som et bolverk av travle barer og fiskerestauranter der gammeldags tilbered-ning råder, har den gamle fisker befolkningens distrikt, La Barceloneta, holdt fast ved sine tra-disjoner. Men det skin-nende nye Barcelona har festet grepet om stren-dene og marinaene om-kring. Det er to svært ulike verdener som møtes i den samme byen.

Shopping i Quadrat d’Or (s. 92)

X Designerboutiquer X Gourmetbutikker

Passeig de Gràcia er en av Europas fineste shopping-

Hvis du virkelig ønsker å oppleve Barcelona og ikke bare krysse av for byens hoved-attraksjoner, vil vi vise deg hvordan lokalbefolkningen opplever byen sin – tradisjo-nelle tapasbarer og loppemarkeder, tradisjonelle katalanske danser og lokale vannhull som ikke har endret seg på mange tiår.

Andre steder å opp leve byen som lokalbefolkningen:

Barri Gòtics kafeer (s. 40)

Gamle Hospital de la Santa Creu (s. 52)

Strandbarer (s. 85)

Parc de la Ciutadella (s. 66)

Speakeasy (s. 99)

Filmoteca de Catalunya (s. 51)

El Passadís del Pep (s. 69)

Carrer de Blai (s. 130)

Sarrià (s. 138)

Aire de Barcelona (s. 70)

BarcelonaLokalkjent

Lokalkjent 13

03-local-life-pk-bar4_NO14.indd 13 13.01.15 10:20