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27 2015 at 12:15 AM Updated Mar 27 2015 at 12:15 AM

break with the past

nding the contemporary in Firenze – be it food, hotels or art – isn't

ways easy; tradition and history still weigh heavily on the eye and

omach.

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ORENCE - AFR - L&L - Aida's colossal head by Dante Ferretti Opera di Firenze (Florence Opera House) -

HOTO: Pietro Paolini/Terra Project FLORENCE - AFR - L&L - Aida's colossal head by Dante Ferretti Opera di

enze (Florence Opera House) - PHOTO: Pietro Paolini/Terra Project Pietro Paolini

Robert Bevan

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autifully freighted with art history though Florence is, a little light relief from

ting your Ghibertis from your Ghirlandaios is sometimes needed – if only to escape

marauding coach parties.

e locals don't want to live permanently in the 15th century either so, honestly, it's

to take your Renaissance-focusing blinkers off now and then without feeling

lty. However, (fashion aside) !nding the contemporary in Firenze – be it food,

tels or art – isn't always easy; tradition and history still weigh heavily on the eye and

mach.

pular outrage greeted the arrival of the New Opera Theatre in 2011. Its sharp,

minated angles by Italian architects ABDR are part of a developing cultural

ecinct – the Parco della Musica. It is the most conspicuously modern structure in

inner city and hated for it.

e city prefers to keep its jauntier modern looks hidden under a sweeping cloak of 

eling render or concealed behind old walls of rusticated stone. The Palazzo Strozzi

case in point; begun in 1489 its magni!cently stern exterior belies an interior

en over to culture. When the last aristos sold up in the 1940s the proceeds were justough to buy a new Fiat Topolino. Eventually ownership was transferred to the state

d it now houses contemporary art and fashion shows, antique fairs and a just-

nched arts programme for its soaring courtyard.

RCHAEOLOGICAL PAST

ke also the Museo del Novecento – the museum of 20th century art – that opened

t summer in an old cloistered hospital across the piazza from the sublime Santa

ria Novella (the church not the station of the same name – although the latter is a

dernist architectural gem). The Museo, originally conceived in a bid to stop

rence "coasting along on its archaeological past", contains some 300 works

luding many donated to the city by international artists after the catastrophic, art-

stroying "oods of 1966 as well as other works of Futurism and Arte Povera (the last

me Italy had an art movement worthy of a name) that have been pushed from pillar

palazzo in search of a home over the decades. Compared to the four-centuries-old

!zi, it inevitably feels a little raw and low in highlights, despite a lovely smattering

Morandis and Baccis but then, unlike at the Uf !zi, you don't risk a ! ve-hour high

son wait to see them.

herwise, the city's most recent investments in museums have been the private

airs of Florentine fashion brands; the 1995 Ferragamo Museum in the Palazzo Spini

roni and, from a few seasons ago, the Gucci Museum right on the Piazza della

noria, north east of David's bum. Inside yet another ancient building, the Gucci

useo is something of a hard sell with items from the back catalogue on display in

ek, minimalist cases, a stylish café and a busy gift shop with snaking queues of 

panese fashion students. But there is a section devoted to displaying the most

ntemporary of conceptual art.

oll north from here beyond the Duomo and fashion takes a dive in the rundown

eets around the 19 century glass and cast-iron Mercato Centrale. Outside, lines of 

ed stallholders "og the same leather wallets and handbags, some with signs

ignantly insisting that the items are Italian rather than Chinese made.

th

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t the central market itself is worth a visit. It's not the most authentic of food

rkets given the city's tourism pressures but there are still huge sacks of dried

rcini and trays of tripe on sale. More novel is a tasty food court that's just opened on

mezzanine above the stalls and below the beautiful glass and and iron roof from

ich hang giant beehive-like lamps. The stalls "anking this raised court specialise in

al and artisanal produce such as breads, cheeses, pasta, polpetta and, a personal

e; the counter run by the Savini family who have been snuf "ing out truf "es since

1920s and serve them here as a quick snack on pasta or eggs. Take a ticket and

emble your meal, eating either at your chosen stall or in a central café-bar area.

low diners are as likely to be locals as tourists.

OOKING SCHOOL

ere is also a steel and glass cooking school here but a more stylish option for hands-

cuisine is across town near Porta Romana. Desinare a Florentine phrase, denotes

nviviality around the family table and the Desinare cooking school is tucked above a

etty courtyard at the back of Riccardo Barthel, one of the most intriguing kitchen

d bathroom shops in the world. It can supply you everything with a match for a

tage brass tap to top-of-the-range modernist cookware. Workshops around the

urtyard are busily restoring old furniture, picture frames and ceramics while you

rn to make !lled pastas or roll sushi in a kitchen equipped for everything from slow 

vacuum cooking.

is is also one way of avoiding the too common Firenze eating environment that can

so dated that it wouldn't surprise to !nd a fossilised contessa face down in her

paccio. Another is to dine at Zeb in the gently hip San Niccolo area of the Oltrarno.

ormer grocery store, it is now a famed lunch spot with white walls, clean lines and

uisine that tweaks the nipples of tradition and that's served at counters rather than

les. The name derives from Zuppe e Bolliti (soups and boiled meat) and that's

ant as encouragement rather than to be off-putting.

re theatrical than deliciously earthy Zeb is another newcomer Caffe Florian, the

enze branch of the Venetian institution that's being promoted as "where !ne dining

ets contemporary art". Here, a sequence of rooms including one salon by artist

on Demetz lined in carbonised panelling like a burnt gondola cabin (in the Maarten

as manner) aim at a young/arty crowd. As is its menu that features dishes such as

nk!sh tagliatelle in a poison green (if tasty) broth. It's fun but a bit try hard.ually young at heart in a more scruf !ly boisterous, student-y way, is Caffè Letterario

Piazza delle Murate. The focus of the Commune of Firenze's prison turned arts

ntre, Le Murate. Summer sees outdoor !lms, concerts and DJs.

e exception to Florence's lethargy in the face of the contemporary is its hotels. As a

nd tour must-see for over 300 years the city does good hotels. The Four Seasons if 

ulous for dowager duchesses (or when just in that kind of mood) but those looking

something fresher also have plenty of choice, from the self-conscious glamour of 

Lungarno to the pioneering design gymnastics of UNA Hotel Vittoria. A happy dium if you don't want design shouting in your face is the Rocco Forte-owned

tel Savoy which is !nished in the group's trade mark svelte accented neutrals. The

voy's dining room bar and its terrace onto the Piazza della Repubblica are being

urbished as a "retro-chic Florentine bistro … contemporary yet vintage." What that

ans will be unveiled at the end of March. There are also rentable boutique

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artments such as the two Floroom venues where ancient timbers are teamed with

p furnishings. (Floroom2 on via del Sole is far more polished than Floroom1

hough the latter has the better location).

r truly stunning hospitality architecture, however, you must head south out of town

he Antinori family winery averting your eyes from the dismal Florentine suburbs

ng the way. There's not a raf !a-clad Chianti bottle in sight at the restaurant,

useum and cellar door complex built in a luxurious blend of dark timber, terracotta

d rusted steel by architects Archea Associate. It is among the most sophisticated

amples of contemporary design in Tuscany and a place to cast off the centuries. Just

a while.

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