ENBENB--VCEVCE

Presented byBEOM-ZOO LEEDirector of CHEMLAND CO., LTD.

1. Introduction

2. Characteristics

3. Effect

4. Safety data

5. Comparison ENB-VCE & J

6. Skin Penetration

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1. Name

INCI Name: Ethyl ascorbic acid

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbyl Ether

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Vitamin C Ethyl

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2. Structure

Molecular formula : C8H12O6

CAS No.: 86404-04-8Molecular weight : 204.18Vitamin-C content : 86.3 %

O

HO

O

O

HO

HO

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3. Stability

Conventional Vitamin C is easily oxidized and destroyed by heat,Conventional Vitamin C is easily oxidized and destroyed by heat, air, light, air, light, etc. Especially, when it is mixed with other cosmetics which neeetc. Especially, when it is mixed with other cosmetics which needs to be ds to be stored long time. Vitamin C usually causes the problem of color stored long time. Vitamin C usually causes the problem of color change in change in cosmetic products.cosmetic products.

In the other hand, Vitamin C ethyl is free from the those In the other hand, Vitamin C ethyl is free from the those unstabilitiesunstabilities..

Vitamin C Ethyl is stable because it is metabolized as purVitamin C Ethyl is stable because it is metabolized as pure vitamin c in the e vitamin c in the living body.living body.

This vitamin Ethyl C is stable whereas conventional vitamiThis vitamin Ethyl C is stable whereas conventional vitamin C has a n C has a weakness that it is expedited to be oxidized in a normal weakness that it is expedited to be oxidized in a normal subacidsubacid..

In the structure of Vitamin C, Vitamin C Ethyl replaces In the structure of Vitamin C, Vitamin C Ethyl replaces EthoxyEthoxy group in the group in the 3rd place which has strong acid. Vitamin C Ethyl is protected fr3rd place which has strong acid. Vitamin C Ethyl is protected from the metal om the metal ion. As a result it doesn't change in its color and has nor abnion. As a result it doesn't change in its color and has nor abnormal reaction.ormal reaction.

2001 : permitted as a whitening functional material from Korea F2001 : permitted as a whitening functional material from Korea Food and Drug Administration ood and Drug Administration

2003 : permitted as a QUASI2003 : permitted as a QUASI--DRUGS from JFDADRUGS from JFDA

Stabilized L-ascorbic acid (Vitamin C).

white, odorless, crystallized powder

Similar effect with L-ascorbic acid

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Whitening

Synthesis of Collagen

Good Penetration

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1-1. Whitening

Decrease the formation of Melanocyte

Excellent anti-ageing effect-Recover from:

- Sun-damage

- Discoloration

- Dark spots

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1-2. Whitening Effect (Cell Test)

40

60

80

100

120

0 0.005 0.01 0.015 0.02

ENB-VCE

VC-PMG

AA2G

SAP

Mela

nocyt

e(%

)

Content (W %)

Fig.1 Whitening Test by Melanocyte

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1-3. Whitening Effect (Photograph)

VC-PMG

ENB-VCE

Before 2 weeks later 6 weeks later

Fig. 3 Whitening Test ( Using 0.7 MED UV Ray)

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0 1 2 3 4 5 66 0

6 1

6 2

6 3

6 4

6 5

6 6

6 7

L N

umbe

r

W e e k s

V C - P M G E N B - V C E

Fig.2 Whitening Test ( In Vivo) by Chromameter CR-300

1-4. Whitening Effect (Chromameter Test)

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1-5. Comparision Whitening effect with other Vitamin C Derivatives

Tested substanceTested substanceSample Sample

concentration(%)concentration(%)

Rate of inhibition of UVRate of inhibition of UV--introduced introduced

melanizationmelanization of DHICA(%)of DHICA(%)

Ascorbic acid (vitaminAscorbic acid (vitamin--C)C)

0.10.1 7070

VC VC –– PMGPMG 0.10.1 2020

AA AA -- 2G2G 0.10.1 2020

EthlyEthly ascorbylascorbyl etherether 0.10.1 8080

EthlyEthly ascorbylascorbyl etherether 0.010.01 4040

• VC-PMG : Magnesium-L-Ascorbly-2-Phosphate

• AA-2G : Ascorbate-2-O-Glucoside

2-1. Formation & Synthesis of Collagen

Helps Collagen synthesis

Recover damaged Collagen

Reduces the Copper Ion of Tyrosinase

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2-2. Skin Penetration of a Cream containing ENB-VCE

2-3. Penetration into Skin

Fig. 4 The result of penetration of calcein cream into skin of rat by OECD Guide line TG 428OECD Guide line TG 428(12 hr later after spreading cream )

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Normal emulsion applied Normal emulsion applied NanoNano emulsion applied emulsion applied

0 .0 0 0 .0 2 0 .0 4 0 .0 6 0 .0 8 0 .1 000

1 0 0

2 0 02 0 0

3 0 0

4 0 04 0 0

5 0 0

Cel

l (%

)

C o n t e n t ( w t % )

V i ta m in - C V C - P M G A A 2 G S A P E N B - V C E

2-4. Formation & Synthesis of Collagen

Fig. 5 Cell Toxicity Test by 10% FBS Environment

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Fig. 6 Cell Toxicity Test by 4% FBS Environment)

0 .0 0 0 .0 2 0 .0 4 0 .0 6 0 .0 8 0 .1 00

1 0 0

2 0 0

3 0 0

4 0 0

5 0 0

Cel

l (%

)

C o n te n t (% )

V ita m in -C V C -P M G A A 2 G S A P E N B -V C E

2-5. Formation & Synthesis of Collagen

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2-6. Delivery of Vitamin C to skin

Low Molecular WeightGood Water solubility (L-ascorbic acid)- Ether bonding

Table 1. Comparison by Vitamin-C Derivative

86.3204.2C8H12O6ENB-VCE

56.3334C6H6O9P3NaSAP

51.9362C12H18O11AA2G

62.0303.5C6H8O9P3/2MgVC-PMG

V-C ContentsM/WFormulaItem

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1. STABILITY by pH

0 2 0 4 0 6 0 8 0 1 0 00

2 0

4 0

6 0

8 0

1 0 0

Con

tent

(%)

D a y s

I n A q . I n p H 4 . 0 I n p H 6 . 0 I n p H 8 . 0

Fig. 7 Stability by Buffer solution (40℃ for 90 days)

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2. Stability in formulation

Table 2. Test Condition

2 types per 1 item and 3 samples of each type Analysis samples :

Skin, Essence, CreamTest Item :

90 days (per 1 month)Period of Analysis :

Column (X-Terra15cm), Eluant (Buffer), Flow rate (0.8mL/min), Detector (UV 245nm), Temperature(20℃), Pressure(1,650-1,750 psi)

Analysis environment :

Skin, Essence in Incubator (40℃), Cream to room temperature

Storage environment :

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Fig. 8 Change of ENB-VCE as Time goes on

0 20 40 60 80 1001.0

1.2

1.4

1.6

1.8

2.0

2.2

2.4

Con

cent

ratio

n (%

)

Days

Skin Essence Cream

0 20 40 60 80 1001.0

1.2

1.4

1.6

1.8

2.0

2.2

2.4

Con

cent

ratio

n (%

)

Days

Skin Essence Cream

(a) TYPE-I (a) TYPE-II

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1. Appearance

Fig. 9 Photograph of Comparing ENB-VCE with J

ENB-VCEJ

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2. IR Data

J

Fig. 10 IR-Graph of Comparing ENB-VCE with J

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3. NMR Data

(a) ENB-VCE

Fig.12 NMR-Graph of Comparing ENB-VCE with J

(b) J

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4. DSC Data

(a) ENB-VCE

Fig.11 DSC-Graph of Comparing ENB-VCE with J

(b) J

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5. HPLC Data

(a) ENB-VCE (b) J

Ret Time : 12. 276 Ret Time : 12. 277

Fig.12 HPLC-Graph of Comparing ENB-VCE with J

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6-1. Delivery Reaction of ENB-VCE into Skin

Test Method

Vitamin C Cream

PBS Buffer

Penetration

Rat’s Skin Layer

6-2. Comparision the contained quantity of Nano emulsion absorbed PBS Bufffer

0

0.1

0.2

0.3

0.4

0.5

3hr 6hr 9hr 12hr 24hr

Raw Material (ENB-VCE)

Homogenized Emulsion

Nano Emulsion

Hour (hr)

ENB

-VC

E (㎎

/㎠)

6-3. Comparision the contained quantity of emulsion measured in Rat’s Skin layer

Hour (hr)

ENB

-VC

E (㎎

/㎠)

0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1

1.2

1.4

Raw Material

(ENB-VCE)

Homogenized

Emulsion

Nano Emulsion

6hr

12hr

24hr