puckering on power strech fabrics( ortarevision4.4.2012)-1

8/12/2019 Puckering on Power Strech Fabrics( ORTArevision4.4.2012)-1

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Puckering Problem on Power StrechFabrics & Garments


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After the analyses of puckering areas , we see that corespun yarn lostspandex from inside.

The trials shows that the elastane could move up to 2cm inside corespunweft, especially after dyeing & washing treatments

Lowering the elasticity of the fabric or garment helps solving puckering.But to maintain no puckering, elasticity levels should be decreaseddramatically.


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Puckering problem is a result of high elastic characteristics of yarns& fabrics produced with elastane(spandex)

To minimize puckering, elasticity should also be minimized. But thiswill effect all comfort properties of the product. Besides lowering elasticitysome actions in cutting, sewing, laundry processes needed not to haveproblem.

Powerstrech fabrics always need careful attention in all cutting&sewing&washing&dying&drying processes.

How To Solve Puckering Problem


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SEWING

The crotch area is prevelant for puckering. This is due to elastane movementand tension difference after multi-layers of fabric. We recommend thefollowing actions:

1. Decrease SPI to 8.

2. Increase seam allowance

3. Change construction of front crotch (this is an effort to hold/stabalize theelastane.)

4. Try clean finish instead of overlock

5. If using overlock, increase this SPI on inside crotch from 1020

6. Change top stitch to 1/4 from 1/8 at crotch.

Bartacks in general should be taken out.


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Increase seam allowance of busted side seams 1/8 more on either side.

Increase SPI of busted outseam overlock from 10 to 20 attempting to holdelastane.

Change construction to 5 thread overlock closed seam with tight SPI.

Take top stitch off inseamFabric layers on edges must be sewed together with overlock sticthing. If

overlock stitching is already done, a tighter overlock would be morehelpful.

Transition from lower fabric layers to higher layers (or vice versa) transitionsmust be smooth. This means it is not good that the stitch passes through 2layers to 8 layers of fabric. (vice versa)

Some parts of the pattern can be adjusted longer and this pass can be; 2layers -> 4 layers -> 6 layers -> 8 layers (Especially on the button fly orzipper fly)

Stitch tension must be lower on more layered parts.

Sewing labels after washing would be helpfulWe recommend SES or SPI type needles. SPI gives better performance but the

strength of SES is better. Preferred needle type is Groz-Beckert SAN6.


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With narrow seam allowances puckering seen more.


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Very narrow seam allowance on the crotch area increasing puckering. After fabric

layer combinations puckering seen more.


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Clean finish on the crotch area helps decreasing puckering effect. As the seam

allowance increases too.


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Clean finish on the crotch area helps decreasing puckering effect. As the seam

allowance increases too.


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Analyses shows that dyeing & drying temperatures effects puckering. Highertemperatures results more puckering.

As Orta PFD flat fabrics doesnt have sizing chemical, there is no desizing needed.Desizing process increases the puckering effect

Longer wash&dye treatment times increases puckering.

More than 60C is not recommended for dyeing & drying. Low temperature dyeprocesses and low temperature drying should be applied


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Mannequins (robots) should not be used for some processes in betweenproduction or end of production. The tension on the fabric is effectingelastane move inside the corespun yarn.

puckering on power strech fabrics( ortarevision4.4.2012)-1

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