Rock Climbing in Kowloon, Qing Yuan County, Guangdong, PRC

The following notes, maps and topos form a rough guide to most of the established climbing in the Kowloon (Nine Dragons) area of Qing Yuan County, Guangdong. This guide was updated in June 2006. The climbing was mostly developed from 2005 to 2006 so grades given may not be accurate and there is still some loose rock around. The rock is typical tropical limestone – dark and quite sharp where exposed to rainfall, lighter, smoother and providing great climbing where sheltered from the elements. The area has beautiful countryside giving a pleasant and relaxed atmosphere for climbing. See attached maps for how to get to Kowloon and the locations of the cliffs with climbing established on them. It is possible to get to the area using public transport. However this is not recommended as it is infrequent and very time consuming. Without private transport it is also difficult to get to the climbing sites. Most climbers stay in the town of Kowloon. There are two or three small hotels, some restaurants, a supermarket, a wet market and small shops in Kowloon. It is a basic rural town with little tourism infrastructure. However, some mainland group tours come to the area to visit hot springs and take in the scenery. Take care not to confuse Kowloon in Qing Yuan county with Kowloon in Hong Kong. Although they have the same name, they are vastly different places. A brief description of the cliffs with climbing established on them is given below. Kowloon Peak A north west facing cliff with morning shade and afternoon sun. Generally dry in the rain due to large overhangs in the upper half of the cliff. The climbing is on the lower half on good yellow and white rock which is mostly less than vertical. There are around ten routes here from 5.5 to 5.11, all of which are good. All except two climbs are sport climbs. See photo topo for details. Little Temple Crag A short steep pocketed cliff with a small temple at the base. It is north facing with very easy access from the road. Much of the rock stays dry in the rain. There are four sport climbs here in the 5.10 to 5.12 range, all of which are steep. See photo topo for details. The Bamboo Grove A long cliff in a bamboo grove behind a village. A good path leads to the cliff which is only a minute or two from the road. The cliff faces south west but the base of the routes stays shaded by the bamboo. There are twelve sport routes here from 5.7 to 5.13. By the village there is a nice stream to cool off in coming out of the mouth of a cave. See topo for details. Suicide Slabs Some large dark grey slabs fifty metres above and behind a roadside temple. You may want to say a little prayer at the temple as some of the climbs here are traditional and are run out in places. The long corner on the right is 5.9, and the slab on the left is a run out 5.8. No topo. The Afternoon Crag A long cliff with a pleasant countryside setting good for picnics and camping. The approach drive is along a rough dirt road. This long grey cliff has quite a lot of natural lines and is situated at the top of a short slope with good views. It faces east and is in the shade in the afternoon. Some of the climbing is quite slabby but in other parts it is steeper. There are three climbs here at the moment – one bolted, one traditional and one top rope line. There is lots of potential for more. See photo topo for details. Bullshit Crag This crag has two short steep 5.10 sport routes at the left hand side of the cave. The main attraction of the crag is that the rock stays dry even in the heaviest rain. It is used as a cattle shelter sometimes so is not the cleanest environment. The left hand route is called Singing in the Rain (5.10c, sport, 10m, 6 bolts, FA Eman, Jerome) and the right hand route is Drilling in the Rain (5.10d, sport, 10m, 6 bolts, FA Eman, Monica, Cosmin). No topo.

The Wizard of Oz Wall (aka BOB Crag) A big wall with a south westerly aspect. There are about six sport routes here from 5.7 to 5.12. They are all single pitch, there is room for more and some have the potential to be extended to several pitches. See photo topo for details. Big Temple Crag A great looking yellow and orange wall behind a large temple just 200 metres north-west of the Wizard of Oz wall. There are only two routes at the moment but more will doubtless be added. The cliff faces south east. See photo topo for details. Camel Mountain This is a high buttress on a large and long peak which is vegetated and broken in places. There are two bolted climbs here which share a common first pitch up a face. After the first pitch, the easier of the routes moves to the right and climbs a large right facing corner to finish on a large ledge after three pitches. It is graded 5.9. After the first pitch, the harder route continues up and slightly left up a face with some cracks. It passes a small roof higher up and is graded 5.11. The third pitch of the left hand route is 5.5. See photo topo (drawn from memory so may not be accurate). The Pocket Crag A south west facing crag close to the road with three sport routes on it. In summer time the rice fields below it may be flooded but it is still possible to climb although less pleasanty. See photo topo for details. The local children can be noisy and annoying. The Camel Tower This impressive twin peaked tower has a large overhanging face on its east side which will provide some hard sport climbs in the future. There are only two climbs here at the moment. A traditional climb takes an obvious line all the way to the top of the lower peak at 5.10. Also, 20 or 30 metres to the right up a right facing corner another 5.10 ascends to joint the original route in topping out on the left hand tower. All of the information above and as follows is subject to the copyright of Paul Collis. If you wish to copy or reproduce it in any form including on a website, contact Paul Collis to request permission (paulcollis@hotmail.com). Warning! If you are not a competent climber experienced in pioneering and

new routing don’t use this guide to go climbing.

Area Road Map