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Contents What is BENTONE GEL® HSO V?

What is Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil?

What are the major application benefits?

Where can BENTONE GEL® HSO V be used?

How do I incorporate this product into my

formulations?

What are the typical use levels?

How do the rheological properties of BENTONE GEL® HSO V

differ from that of pure Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Oil?

Can you demonstrate the applications with some formulation

examples?

Is testing data available to help show the performance

benefits provided by BENTONE GEL® HSO V?

1

A: BENTONE GEL® HSO V is a dispersion

of fully activated BENTONE® 38 V, a non-

animal origin hectorite organoclay, in

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Oil. This

emollient acts as a vegetable triglyceride

and is considered non-comedogenic

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil

provides emollience with lubricity and can

help to form a protective barrier on the skin.

The organoclay offers rheological

modifications for the oil phase and

emulsions, which leads to enhanced product

stability, as well as increased viscosity,

suspending capabilities, rich texture, silky

skin feel, good spreading properties and

thixotropic flow characteristics.

The INCI name of BENTONE GEL® HSO V is Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Oil,

Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate.

Q: What is BENTONE GEL® HSO V?

Figure 1. BENTONE GEL® HSO V

Typical Properties

Property Specification

Appearance Tan Paste

Viscosity (MM cps) 0.2 - 0.8

Ash Content (%) 5.8 - 6.4

2

Table 1. Typical Properties of BENTONE GEL® HSO V

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil isa non-volatile oil expressed from sunflowerseeds. Its main component is linoleic acidin the triglyceride form. The approximate composition is shown here:

Linoleic Acid: 48-74%

Oleic Acid:14-40%

Palmitic Acid: 4-9%

Stearic Acid:1-7%

Sunflower oil is a skin conditioning emollient, which can help retain moisture in the skinand forms a protective barrier on the skin.

Q: What is Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil?

Figure 2. Structure of components of sunflower oil

3

A: The application benefits

include:

Formulation stability including

elevated temperature stability

Thickening and suspending

Thixotropic rheological flow

Enhances dispersion of actives

Contributes to rich texture and improved

formulation aesthetics

Gives a softer skin feel

Offers ease of spreading and even coverage

Provides emollience

Q: What are the major application benefits?

4

Q: Where can BENTONE GEL® HSO V be used?

A: BENTONE GEL® HSO V is suitable for various personal care applications. Some

formulation examples are listed in this application guide. This product is very easy to

incorporate into the oil phase of emulsions, or all oil systems. Applications may include:

Skin care products

Sunscreens

Make-up

Creams/lotions

Ointments/oil gels/sticks

Baby products

Hair styling

5

Batch Processing

Single Phase SystemsAlways add the BENTONE GEL®, under shear, to a portion of the organic component or

solvent with which it is most compatible. Mix until homogeneous before adding the other

ingredients.

Multi-Phase Systems (e.g. emulsions) Treat as with the single phase but always ensure the BENTONE GEL® additive is

thoroughly mixed in before continuing to the emulsification stage.

Continuous Processing The BENTONE GEL® should be added to the oil phase at any convenient point, which

meets the above guidelines for batch processing. In multi-

manifold systems, a flowable pre-mix of the BENTONE

GEL® with a compatible oil or solvent should be made in a

side vessel.

Where only lower shear mixing equipment is available, stir

the BENTONE GEL® and slowly add the most compatible

component gradually, always ensuring the mixture remains

homogeneous at each stage.

Q: How do I incorporate the product into myformulations?

A: BENTONE GEL® HSO V may be added to the oil phase

of a formulation at any convenient stage during the

manufacturing cycle. This is a very high viscosity, shear-

thinning product. To ensure good homogeneous mixing is

achieved, care should be taken to overcome the large

viscosity differential existing between the BENTONE GEL®

and the other lower viscosity components. The use of

medium to high shear mixing equipment is recommended.

Thorough mixing of the BENTONE GEL® in the oil phase

should be ensured before continuing to the next processing

step, such as emulsification.

6

Q: What are the typical use levels?

A: Product use levels depend on the amount of thickening and stabilisation desired in the

final formulations. Suspension will be provided by 2.5-10.0% additions. In emulsions,

thickening will occur in the oil phase only and emulsion viscosities will be influenced by 3-

5% additions. Higher levels of BENTONE GEL® will have a greater viscosity influence.

Thermostable viscosity in single phase systems may be achieved by 10-25% additions.

7

Q: How do the rheological properties of BENTONE GEL® HSO V differ from that of pure Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Oil?

A: The flow curves and oscillation curve (frequency sweep) of BENTONE GEL® HSO V

and Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Oil are compared below. BENTONE GEL® HSO V is

a high viscosity gel, with thixotropic flow behaviour, while Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower)

Oil is a low viscosity liquid with almost a constant viscosity when the shear rate is varied.

In addition, BENTONE GEL® HSO V is a gel with a strong structure and excellent stability.

Figure 3. Addition of BENTONE® 38 V produces ahigh viscosity gel, with thixotropic flow behaviour

Figure 4. BENTONE® 38 V provides excellentstability in Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Oil

Procedure

1. Heat Phase A together to 75-80°C and mix with silverson homogenising. 2. Mix Phase B with a propeller stirrer and heat to 75-80°C.3. Using high shear mixing (e.g. silverson homogeniser), add Phase A to Phase B and continue to homogenise for 30 minutes.4. Transfer to a propeller stirrer and commence cooling. 5. At 35°C add Phase C with stirring.

Physical PropertiesAppearance White Balm

pH 5.5

Viscosity - Brookfield DV-II+, Spindle 4, 12 rpm (cps) 15000 - 20000

Q: Can you demonstrate the applications with some formulation examples? A: Some representative formulations with BENTONE GEL® HSO V are listed here to

demonstrate the various potential applications.

Ingredient Supplier % w/w

PHASE A

BENTONE GEL® HSO V (Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Oil and Disteardimonium

Hectorite and Propylene Carbonate) ELEMENTIS Specialties 3.0

Galenol 1618 AE (Cetearyl Alcohol and Ceteareth-20) Sasol 5.0

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil A&E Connock 4.0

Tegosoft M (Isopropyl Myristate) Evonik Degussa 3.0

Crodamol CAP (Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate and Isopropyl Myristate) Croda 2.0

Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil A&E Connock 1.5

PHASE B

Deionised Water 77.2

Glycerin KIC Group 3.0

PHASE C

Witch Hazel Distillate 2/365470 (Water and Hamamlelis Virginiana Extract and Alcohol

Denat)Symrise 1.0

Paratexin FPX (Phenoxyethanol and Methylparaben and Ethylparaben and Propylpa-

raben and Butyl Paraben and Isobutylparaben)

S. Black Group 0.3

Fragrance q.s

Total 100.0

8

Formula 1: After Sun Lotion

Formula 2: Honey Body ButterIngredient Supplier % w/w

PHASE A

BENTONE GEL® LT (Hectorite and Hydroxyethylcellulose) ELEMENTIS Specialties 0.6


PHASE B

BENTONE GEL® HSO V (Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Oil and Disteardimonium Hectorite

and Propylene Carbonate) ELEMENTIS Specialties 3.0

Tegosoft CT (Caprilic/Capric Triglyceride) Evonik Degussa 10.0

Glycine Soya (Soybean) Oil A&E Connock 6.0

Glucate DO (Methyl Glucose Dioleate) Amerchol Corporation 4.0

Tego Alkanol 1618 (Cetearyl Alcohol) Evonik Degussa 4.0

Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil A&E Connock 2.0

Tego Care PS (Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate) Evonik Degussa 1.0

Beeswax A&E Connock 0.5

PHASE C

Glycerin 4.0

Glucam P-10 (PPG-10 Methyl Glucose Ether) Amerchol Corporation 2.0

Honey (Pure Acacia) A&E Connock 0.5

Perfume Sweet Honey 0.5

FDC Yellow 5 (0.5% Sol) 0.4

PHASE D

Paratexin FPX (Phenoxyethanol and Methylparaben and Ethylparaben and Propylparaben

and Isobutylparaben)

S. Black Group 0.2

Total 100.0

Procedure

1. Mix Phase A thoroughly, mixing on a silverson homogenise for 20 minutes.

2. Thorougly disperse Phase B, using a silverson homogeniser and heat to 75- 80°C.

3. Using a silverson homogeniser add Phase C to Phase A, and heat to 75-80°C.

4. Using high shear mixing (e.g. silverson homogeniser), add Part B to Part A+C and continue to homogenise.

5. At approximately 50°C transfer to a propeller stirrer. The product will soon start to thicken around the sides of the vessel and may

require manual assistance if scraper blades are not fitted to the propeller.

6. At 35°C and add Phase D with stirring.

Physical PropertiesAppearance White/Yellow Balm

pH 5.5

Viscosity - Brookfield DV-II+Pro, Spindle 5, 12 rpm (cps) 15000 - 20000

9

Formula 3: Warming Face MaskIngredient Supplier % w/w

PHASE A


and Propylene Carbonate)ELEMENTIS Specialties 4.0

Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil A&E Connock 2.5

Tocopheryl Acetate A&E Connock 2.5

Paratexin FPX (Propylparaben) S. Black Group 0.1

BHT 0.1

PHASE B

Glycerin 41.3

Lipoxol 400 MED (PEG-8) Sasol 13.0

Glucam E-10 (Methyl Gluceth-10) Amerchol Corporation 8.0

PHASE C

BENTONE® MA (Hectorite) ELEMENTIS Specialties 8.0

PHASE D

Zinc Oxide 5.0

PHASE E

Alusil ET (Sodium Silicoaluminate) Ineos Silicas 12.5

PHASE F

Apricot Seed 60-80 Mesh Size (Apricot Seed Powder) Ikeda 1.0

Peach Seed 60-80 Mesh Size (Peach Seed Powder) Ikeda 1.0

Total 100.0

Procedure1. Add together Phase A and heat slightly to dissolve, and mix.

2. Add together Phase B.

3. Add Phase A to Phase B with silverson homogenising.

4. Add Phase C to Phase A+B and mix using a silverson homogeniser until uniform.

5. Add Phase D to Phase A+B+C and mix using a silverson homogeniser until uniform.

6. Add Phase E to Phase A+B+C+D and mix using a silverson homogeniser until uniform.

7. Transfer to a propeller stirrer and add Phase F to Phase A+B+C+D+E.

8. Cool with propeller stirring.

Physical PropertiesAppearance Light Brown Speckled Cream

pH N/A


10

Formula 4: 2 in 1 Shower Gel Ingredient Supplier % w/w

PHASE A


and Propylene Carbonate)

ELEMENTIS Specialties 1.0

SERDET® DKF-30 (Sodium Lauryl Sulphate) Elementis Specialties 30.0

Plantacare 818 UP (Coco Glucoside) Henkel 6.0

Crovol M70 (PEG-60 Corn Glycerides) Croda 5.0

PHASE B


D-Panthenol 75 W (Panthenol) Roche 0.5

PHASE C

Natrosol 250 HR (Hydroxyethylcellulose) Hercules 2.0

PHASE D

Tego Betain F50 (Cocamidopropylbetaine) Evonik Degussa 2.75

Tegin 4100 Pellets (Glycol Stearate) Evonik Degussa 2.0

PHASE E

Paratexin FPX (Phenoxyethanol and Methylparaben and Ethylparaben and Propylparaben

and Butylparaben and Isobutylparaben)

S. Black Group 0.3

Fragrance q.s

PHASE F

Citric Acid Monohydrate ADM Ingredients To pH 5.5-

6.0

Total 100.0

Procedure1. Warm Phase A together.

2. Heat Phase B to 55°C, then add Phase C with silverson homogenising.

3. Add Phase A to Phase B slowly with stirring.

4. Add Phase D with stirring.

5. The temperature should be at 35°C or below by this stage. Add Phase E with stirring.

4. Adjust pH with Phase F.

Physical PropertiesAppearance Clear Yellow Gel

pH 5.5 - 6.0


11

Formula 5: Organic SunscreenIngredient Supplier % w/w

PHASE A

BENTONE GEL® HSO V (Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Oil and Disteardimonium

Hectorite and Propylene Carbonate)

ELEMENTIS Specialties 20.0

Tegosoft Liquid (Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate) Evonik Degussa 7.5

Polarwax NF (Cetearyl Alcohol and Polysorbate 60) Croda 4.2

Tegosoft M (Isopropyl Myristate) Evonik Degussa 3.0

Eusolex 2292 (Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnimate and BHT) Merck 2.5

Parsol 1789 (Butyl Methoxybenzoylmethane) Roche Vitamins 0.8

PHASE B


Glycerine 5.0

PHASE C

Phenoxetol (Phenoxyethanol) Clariant 0.2

Total 100.0

Procedure1. Heat Phase A together to 75°C.

2. In a separate container warm Phase B to 75°C.

3. Using high shear mixing (e.g. silverson homogeniser), slowly add Phase A to Phase B.

4. Continue to mix for several minutes. 5. Transfer to a propeller stirrer and commence cooling. 6. Under 35°C add Phase C. 7. Mix until uniform.

Physical PropertiesAppearance White Lotion

pH 5.5


12

A: Experimental data has been obtained by testing the different formulations, with and

without BENTONE GEL® HSO V. Apparent performance benefits are demonstrated in

the following examples.

BENTONE GEL® HSO V in the After SunLotion (Formula 1)

The Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Oil provides

an emollient effect, with the organoclay helping

to provide a base for the product, improve the

application properties and stabilise the product.

In figure 5, we can see that the sample with

BENTONE GEL® HSO V is thixotropic.

BENTONE GEL® HSO V in a Honey Body Butter (Formula 2)

This water in oil cream uses Helianthus Annuus

(Sunflower) Oil as an emollient. The organoclay

helps stabilise the emulsion, allows for even

application and provides a smooth, soft finish.

Here in figure 6, we can see that the honey body

butter with BENTONE GEL® HSO V appears to

be stable, whereas the sample without

organoclay indicates phase instabilities.

In figure 7 the honey body butter with

BENTONE GEL® HSO V shows greater phase

stability throughout the entire temperature

range, whereas the sample without organoclay

starts to undergo phase changes at around

60°C.

Figure 5. Flowcurve of the after sun lotions

Q: Is testing data available to help show the performance benefits provided by BENTONE GEL® HSO V?

13

Figure 6. Honey body butter frequency sweep

Figure 7. Temperature oscillation curve

BENTONE GEL® HSO V in Warming Face Mask (Formula 3)

The warming face mask has been designed to provide a toning, purifying face mask, which

warms the skin, allowing impurities to be more easily removed from the skin. The

BENTONE GEL® HSO V improves the rheological profile, giving it a stable viscosity when

standing, so that the particles remain suspended, while allowing it to be applied easily to

the skin.

BENTONE GEL® HSO V in 2 in 1 Shower Gel (Formula 4)

BENTONE GEL® HSO V in this 2 in 1 shower gel provides easy application and stability,

while also increasing the viscosity, giving the skin a silky after feel.

Figure 9 shows the greater thixotropy in the shower gel with BENTONE GEL® HSO V.

14

Figure 8. Flowcurve comparing face mask with Kaolinand BENTONE® MA with face mask containing bothBENTONE GEL® HSO V and BENTONE® MA

Figure 9. 2 in 1 shower gel flowcurve

BENTONE GEL® HSO V in an Organic Sunscreen (Formula 5)

The BENTONE GEL® HSO V in this organic sunscreen offers the emollient effect of

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil along with the even application, better rheology

and improved feel achieved with the hectorite organoclay.

Figure 10 shows the increased thixotropy achieved when BENTONE GEL® HSO V is

incorporated into the formulation.

Below in figure 11, we see that the organic sunscreen with BENTONE GEL® HSO V

udergoes no phase changes from 10-80°C, whereas the sunscreen without organoclay

undergoes a phase change at about 60°C.

Figure 10. Flow curves for organic sunscreens

Figure 11. Temperature oscillation curves

15

Before using any of our products please consult our Safety Data Sheets.

The information in this publication is, to the best of our knowledge, true and accurate, but since the

conditions of use are beyond our control, no warranty is given or to be implied in respect of such

information. In every case, caution must be exercised to avoid violation or infringement of statutory

obligations and any rights belonging to a third party. We are, at all time, willing to study customers’

specific outlets involving our products in order to enable their most effective use.

© Copyright 2008, Elementis Specialties, Inc. All rights reserved.

Copying and/or downloading of this document or information therein for republication is not allowed

unless prior written agreement is obtained from Elementis Specialties, Inc.

® Registered trademark of Elementis Specialties, Inc.

For more details please contact:

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P.O. Box 700

Hightstown

New Jersey 08520

USA

Tel: +1.609.443 2500

Fax: +1.609.443 2446

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