quick check list when your car’s starter motor dose not respond!
TRANSCRIPT
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Quick Check list when your Car’s Starter
Motor dose not respond!
Starting problems can be very frustrating because there are so many things under the hood that
can keep a car from starting.If your key won’t turn in the ignition, you need to figure out why the
car won’t start.
Here are some tests for a no-start problems which are are simple :
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Check Your Fuses: Cars have a fuse associated with the starting system, but before you
go monkeying around with everything, check your fuses to be sure it’s not that simple.
Battery Corrosion: Over time your battery connections can become dirty, or corroded.
This corrosion breaks the connection your battery has with the rest of the car, and it
won’t start. Try cleaning your battery posts and try to start the car again.
Dead Battery: The most common reason your car won’t start is a dead battery. If you
have a battery tester that can measure cranking amps, test your battery to see if it’s weak.
If you can’t test it yourself, you can test the battery indirectly by jump-starting the car. If
it starts right away, your problem is most likely a dead battery. Replace the battery, and
clean the battery connections to ensure good contact
Bad Igntion Switch:If your battery checks out, but the starter is still silent, it may be a
faulty ignition switch. Turn the key to the on position (not all the way to start). If the red
warning lights on your dash don’t light up (and your battery connections are clean), the
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ignition switch is bad. If they do light up, turn the key to the start position. The dash
warning lights should turn off at this key position (most cars). If you’re not sure, turn on
the headlights. When you try to start the car, the lights should either dim (a lot) or turn off
completely. If they do, your ignition switch should be OK. If not, the switch will need
replacement.
Bad Starter Connection: Corrosion can not only keep your battery from connecting, it
can affect any electrical component, especially the ones exposed to the elements like the
starter. If you have a helper, you can test the connection by holding a circuit tester lead
on the wire that engages the starter. This is the smaller of the two wires connected to the
starter. Be sure no part of your body is near the moving parts of the engine – it could still
start at any time! Have a friend turn the key and check the current. If you’re getting
current to the starter but it ain’t spinning, it needs replacement.
If your starter spins freely when you turn the key, the problem lies elsewhere. Now you begin to
check the other systems of yor car that could keep it from firing up !
Look at the wires, hoses, and other components under the hood. Often, one unplugged wire, or
one broken vacuum or fuel line will be the problem, and these are simple and inexpensive to fix.
Check the owner’s manual for fuses, relays, and circuit breakers related to either fuel or
ignition. You should be able to locate these and make sure they are not tripped or blown.
In the relay block, you can exchange relays that are the same size from another
component, such as the AC blower, to test the ignition relay.
Listen to your engine when you crank it. If you hear a knocking sound, backfiring, or
misfiring, you may have a flooded carburettor or a serious engine problems such as
jumped timing or stuck or broken valves.
Even when your car doesn’t start when you try the ignition, it may show a “code”, or
information stored in the computer, that can be accessed by a technician to find the
source of your problem. This may be a “check engine” light, or other indicator.
If the owner’s manual doesn’t list a fuse or relay for the fuel pump, your car has a
mechanical pump, and the only way to check it is to remove a fuel line, and turn the
engine over to see if gasoline comes out, but this is very dangerous!
The best thing that you should do is to have a good mechanic check your car every month
so that you can predict any problem in advance.
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