rising above the fog

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Published Exclusively for WorldMark Owners June 2002 WorldMark WorldMark ® Published Exclusively for WorldMark Owners June 2002 RISING ABOVE THE FOG

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P u b l i s h e d E x c l u s i v e l y f o r W o r l d M a r k O w n e r s J u n e 2 0 0 2

W o r l d M a r kW o r l d M a r k ®®

P u b l i s h e d E x c l u s i v e l y f o r W o r l d M a r k O w n e r s J u n e 2 0 0 2

R I S I N G A B O V E T H E F O G

V I C E P RE S I D E N T O F R E S O R T O P E R AT I O N S

Dave Herrick

E D I T O R - I N - C H I E F

Ric Rosa

E D I T O R

Leah Clark

L E A D W R I T E R

Doug Hampton

S E N I O R D E S I G N E R

Terry Dickens

C O N T R I B U T O R S

Rosie Gray, Maggie Kolter, LouiseDeyoe, Amie Anderson, Vaden Savage,

John Henley, Matt Wise, Patty Daly

P u b l i s h e d E x c l u s i v e l y f o r W o r l d M a r k O w n e r s

C O M M E N T S A R E A P P R E C I A T E D

Destinations Editor9805 Willows Road

Redmond, WA 98052(425) 498-2500

T R E N D W E S T T R AV E L

1-800-953-5511Mon. – Fri., 8:00 a.m. – 8:00 p.m. PT

Sat., 9:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m. PT(Closed Wed., 2:30 – 4:00 p.m. PT)

VA C AT I O N P L A N N I N G C E N T E R

1-800-457-0103Mon. – Fri., 6:00 a.m. – 9:00 p.m. PTSat. & Sun., 6:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m. PT(Closed Tues., 2:00 – 3:30 p.m. PT)

O W N E R S E R V I C E S

1-888-648-7363

[email protected]

Mon. – Fri., 9:00 a.m. – 6:00 p.m. PT

(Closed Tues., 2:00 – 3:30 p.m. PT)

I N T E R VA L I N T E R N AT I O N A L

Service line: 1-877-678-4400

Flexchange recording: 1-800-722-1747

R E S O R T C O N D O M I N I U M S

I N T E R N AT I O N A L

1-800-585-4833

W O R L D M A R K W E B S I T E

www.worldmarktheclub.com

© 2002, WorldMark, The Club. All rights

reserved. Destinations and its respective

logos and the design of this publication

are trademarks, service marks and/or trade

dress of WorldMark, The Club.

WorldMark® is a registered trademark

and service mark of WorldMark, The Club.

Trendwest® is a registered trademark and

service mark of Trendwest Resorts, Inc.

Other marks, names and logos may be

trademarks or registered trademarks of

their respective holders. No affiliation with

such companies should be assumed.

Pacific Northwest CruiseSeptember 17 – 20Royal Caribbean’s Radiance of the Seassails from Seattle for Vancouver and VictoriaInside cabin: 13,000 credits for twoBalcony cabin: 16,000 credits for two

Baja CruiseOctober 25 – 28Carnival’s Ecstasy sails from Los Angelesfor EnsenadaInside cabin: 13,000 credits for twoOutside cabin: 14,500 credits for twoInside quad cabin: 21,000 credits for four

Disney Land-and-Sea VacationDecember 29 – January 5Ocean-view quad cabin: 40,900 credits for twoAdditional occupants extra

C r u i s e f o r C r e d i t sBaja CruiseNovember 1 – 4Royal Caribbean’s Vision of the Seas sails fromLos Angeles for EnsenadaInside cabin: 12,500 credits for twoInside deluxe cabin: 13,500 credits for twoOutside cabin: 15,500 credits for twoOutside deluxe cabin: 18,000 credits for twoBalcony cabin: 19,000 credits for twoOutside quad cabin: 22,000 credit for four

The Canal and the CaribbeanDecember 2 – 13Royal Caribbean’s Splendour of the Seassails from Galveston, Texas, for the YucatanPeninsula, Costa Rica, Jamaica andGrand CaymanInside cabin: 36,500 credits for twoOutside cabin: 50,500 credits for twoBalcony cabin: 64,500 credits for two

Local AdventuresSan Francisco Treasure HuntSeptember 211,700 credits per person

Sonoma Wine TastingSeptember 221,800 credits per person

River Flight StayLaughlin, NevadaOctober 25 – 272,225 credits for four-person hotel room

Call 1-800-457-0103for reservations.

V I C T O R I A B . C .

e’ve got some great stuff foryou this month: Onlinereservations unveiled,

packages to London, Rome and Paris,cruises to the Eastern Caribbean andBermuda, and an owner tale thatreminds us we’re not mere strangerstraveling together, but a community ofWorldMark members.

Big Bear, California, is our coverstory. This destination has long been afavorite retreat for Los Angeles and SanDiego residents, and on a recent trip,writer Doug Hampton quickly dis-covered why. Up in the mountains, youjust feel better. You breathe easier. Youthink clearer. And with Phase II of theresort nearly complete, there are now50 additional units available to you. Sogo. There has never been a better timeto enjoy the tremendous recreation—and relaxation—that this region offers.

Not that Steamboat Springs doesn’talso pack an awesome summer punch.This Colorado town may be most wellknown for its superb skiing, but itremains just as busy during the summer,with shopping, athletic endeavorsand arts-and-culture aplenty. BeátaJachulski-Baker traveled there duringthe low-key spring, and her delightfulnarrative (beginning on page 10)recounts what is most compelling aboutSteamboat’s only-sometimes muddy“Mud Season.”

Getting away … and having it all.Isn’t that the best of both worlds? AtWorldMark, it’s certainly what we striveto provide for you—the ability to travelon your own terms, yet still have allthe comforts of home. From time totime, let us know how we’re doing and,of course, offer suggestions for how wecan do better.

D E S T I N A T I O N S / J u n e 2 0 0 2

Rising Above the FogClear your head in Big Bear

This alpine jewel is Southern California’s premier

mountain playground.

Playing in the MudSteamboat Springs

With hot springs, hikes and high-class shopping, ski season’s

not the only time to experience the charms of Steamboat.

A fisherman’s silhouette

on Big Bear Lake.

51314

Reservations being taken at two new properties

Winter in Europe, anyone?

Ireland travel report

R A N C H I N G H E R I T A G E / P H O T O B Y C H R I S S E L B Y, C O U RT E S Y S T E A M B O A T S P R I N G S C H A M B E R R E S O R T A S S O C I A T I O N

8

10

coverphoto

G e t t i n gA w a y

deskeditor’s

W

P H O T O B Y T I M W O L C O T T,C O U RT E S Y B I G B E A R L A K ER E S O RT A S S O C I AT I O N

10

Get snapping. The deadline for submittingentries in the sixth annual Vacation MemoriesPhoto Contest is September 15. Prizes rangefrom a nine-night stay at the WorldMark resortof your choice to $25 USD Cameraworld.comgift certificates. See the May issue ofDestinations for a complete listing of prizes.

Mail entries to:

Destinations Photo ContestTrendwest Resorts, Inc.9805 Willows RoadRedmond, WA 98052

Contest Rules:

All entries must havebeen taken on aWorldMark orexchange vacationduring 2001 or 2002.Each owner account

may submit up to four prints, transparenciesand/or slides. (If slides, please include printsof the images, as well.) Printouts of digitalimages must also be accompanied by originalfiles. Sorry, we cannot accept images electron-ically. Please mail your entries in one envelopeand label each print, slide and transparencywith your name, owner number, address andphone number. To protect your images, writeon the backs with a permanent marker andsafely package in cardboard. Each entry

should include a description of wherethe photograph was taken.Images will not be returned toyou. Only one winning entry perperson, per year. By entering thecontest, participants agree to freeuse of their photographs by

WorldMark and TrendwestResorts, including publication in

future issues of Destinations.““We do not take a trip;

a trip takes us. —John Steinbeckworthynotew o r l d m a r k n e w s

ManagementMoves

W O R L D M A R K B I S O N R A N C H / P H O T O B Y D A N S T E A R N S

CAROL CLARKSON is the new

assistant manager at Angels Camp.

Carol started with WorldMark at the

Tahoe resort’s front desk. From there,

she moved to Angels Camp as the

office manager. During a 10-month

absence from WorldMark, Carol got

married and worked as a bookkeeper

for a small auction company. Two

years ago, she returned to WorldMark

to be the administrative assistant to

Jeff Gooch, Director of Operations in

the Central Region. Moving back to

the Arnold area and working at the

Angels Camp resort fulfills a longtime

dream for Carol.

Santa Clara native LISA HALL

is settling into her new role as

assistant manager of WorldMark

Tahoe. Her previous WorldMark

experience includes housekeeping

and the front desk. Lisa’s dedication

and attention to detail were evident

in her last post as front desk super-

visor at Bass Lake. Lisa has two lovely

children: Richard, age 12, and

Jocelyn, age 10. The Hall family is

enjoying the fresh air and active

outdoor lifestyle at Lake Tahoe.

Keep Those Photos Coming

4 DEST INAT IONS

newwhat’s800 Number forLoan ServicingTrendwest is excited to introduce a

customer service department for your

loan servicing needs. Do you have a

question regarding your statement?

Are you interested in setting up auto-

matic payment? Would you like to pay

your maintenance dues or monthly

contract payment over the telephone?

The new Loan Servicing Department

can help you with these and many

other requests.

Our hours of operation are 8 a.m.

to 5 p.m. PT, Monday through Friday.

You can reach us by e-mailing

[email protected]

or calling 1-800-691-7289. We look

forward to hearing from you!

ClubClassicPassesHalfwayMarkWe have officially passed thehalfway point of the annualowners’ golf tournament. Golfersat all skill levels are plowing upthe courses from Maui to MarinerVillage in the quest to be crownedWorldMark Club Classic Master.This one-of-a-kind tournamenthas already produced many newfriendships, hundreds of vacationmemories and thousands of golfshots—all of which will onlyincrease as more owners jointhe fun.

And it’s not too late toparticipate! Pick up an applicationand official rules at any resort,then pay the $5 USD entry fee.Play at any course, as many timesas you wish, and turn in the golfscores of all the rounds playedwhile staying at a WorldMarklocation. We’ll take care of therest. (The most difficult thing willbe deciding whether to go for thegreen over the water hazard, orlay up and play it safe.) In additionto the coveted “green blazer,”WorldMark logo golf accessoriesand certificates for WorldMarkresort stays are up for grabs.

For more information, contactOwner Services at 1-888-648-7363, visit a resort near you, orcontact any of the following ClubClassic Board of Governors:

Don Cogburn

WorldMark Big Bear1-909-878-4227

Pedro Lana

WorldMark Rancho Vistoso1-520-498-6406

Vaden Savage

WorldMark Bass Lake1-559-642-6780

inventory specials

comesee thecountryDuring the month of July, you canvacation at the following resorts for justfour cents per credit. Call the VacationPlanning Center at 1-800-457-0103 tomake your reservations.

MIDWEEK ONLY:

Bison Ranch, AZ

Branson, MO

Lake of the Ozarks, MO

Rancho Vistoso, AZ

St. George, UT

Midweek stays must take place Sunday throughThursday. Reservations at the above resortsare not subject to the 14-day booking window,and you may book multiple units. Holidaysare excluded.

Now TakingReservationsWe have two new properties

in the reservations system:

WorldMark Las Vegas is

available after September 1,

and WorldMark South Shore

(in South Lake Tahoe) after

November 1. Grab ’em while

they’re hot!Dates may move forward as construction nears

completion. For updates, call the Vacation Planning

Center or log on to www.worldmarktheclub.com.

We Havea Winner!comment carddrawingCongratulations to Robert Prewitt of Ripon,California, who won our recent commentcard drawing. He will enjoy a three-nightstay at the WorldMark resort of his choice,on us.

To throw your name in the hat for ourmonthly drawings, simply fill out and returnyour comment card after each WorldMarkresort vacation.

i n f o c u slightspot

Don’t Miss Out!Five hundred and thirteen inventory specials

were booked by owners during April. Have you

taken advantage of these changing bargains

yet? Turn to page five for this month’s specials.

briefin

C H U R C H I N S A N J O S É D E L C A B O

We just returned from eight days atWorldMark Coral Baja. It was awonderful vacation in spite of someglitches. Thanks to the help of thefront desk staff—Marcela, Hector,Gabriel, Eduardo and Alma—theglitches worked into a very memor-able vacation experience. I just haveto tell my story:

We arrived on Friday and ourfriends got in the next day. We tooktaxis into Cabo—and left our videocamera in the taxi, never to berecovered: Glitch #1.

I knew when we left Spokane,Washington, that I was comingdown with something, but tried tofake it and told myself it was justfatigue. By Tuesday, I knew it wasstrep: Glitch #2.

I asked Marcela if there was adoctor I could go to. Instead, shearranged for Dr. Lomas and his nurseto come to me in Coral Baja, to myroom—the first time I’ve had a housecall since I was five years old! “Youare in Mexico, now,” Dr. Lomasreminded me. He examined mythroat and agreed I needed antibi-otics and antihistamine. His nursepicked up the medications from thepharmacy and delivered them to myroom an hour later. I could notbelieve this wonderful service!

But it was a fellow WorldMarkmember who really came to my res-cue. When I checked my wallet topay the doctor, I found out my hus-band had my ATM card and I wasout of checks. I didn’t know how Iwas going to pay the bill: Glitch #3.

I was discussing my dilemmawith Marcela when another World-Mark guest asked, “How muchmoney do you need?” I told her(having never seen her before in mylife) that the bill was $200. She askedme to wait and returned in five min-utes with $200 cash and handed itto me. I didn’t know her name, herroom number or anything about her.Would this ever happen in any ofthose “big” resorts in Los Cabos?I don’t think so! When my husbandand our friends returned, I told themhow the woman had come to myrescue. They were impressed andsaid this is what makes WorldMarka “community of friends” rather thantraveling strangers. My husbandimmediately went to the ATMmachine and returned the $200.

The remainder of our vacationwas wonderful. As I began to feelbetter, we rode all-terrain vehiclesand went boating and fishing for areally memorable time.

I know this all might havehappened at another WorldMarkresort. For some reason, though, Ithink the compassion of the staff atCoral Baja and their caring attitudetoward guests creates an atmos-phere where guests care about eachother, too. This certainly was thecase in our circumstances. With thisin mind, I’m delighted to recommendCoral Baja as my number oneWorldMark vacation choice!

B Y J E A N N I E A N D T E D N O R T O N , O W N E R S

Community in

Ongoing ProjectsNo. Estimated

Destination Units Completion StatusBig Bear, CA – Ph II 50 Summer 2002 FinishesSouth Shore, NV – Ph I 51 Summer 2002 Interior finishesLas Vegas, NV – Ph I 210 Summer 2002 Clubhouse complete;

finishing unitsSonoma Valley, CA – Ph I 150 Summer 2003 Site mobilizationAngels Camp, CA – Ph II 88 Summer 2003 Design/city approvalSolvang, CA 90 Fall 2003 Design

Information as of April 26, 2002.June 2002 7

B Y P E G G Y F R Y ,

D I R E C T O R O F O W N E R S E R V I C E S

Seaside, OR The Seaside resort tower is abuzzwith activity: Columns, shear walls and post tensionedslabs for the eighth floor and roof deck are in progress;fourth-floor metal stud framing and mechanical, electricaland plumbing rough-in work is under way; and brick veneeris 95% complete. The parking garage, Avenue “A” andBroadway storefront are all complete. The drywall forBroadway spaces is in progress. Construction is expectedto conclude next summer.

A new reservation system that will let youuse the Internet to book resort stays haspassed a major test. During a recent trial run,WorldMark vacation planning counselorsused the new online system to successfullycomplete 53 reservations called in by owners.Fees were collected via credit card numbers,and confirmation e-mails were automaticallygenerated.

The test was so successful that theTrendwest Web Services Team has proceed-ed to the next step—giving select ownersonline access to the new system so they canbook resort stays themselves. Assuming allgoes well, more owners will be added to thesystem in gradual steps until Trendwest isconfident enough in its stability and functionto release it to everyone.

You will still be able to book reservationsby telephone after the online reservationsystem is implemented. Owners who bookreservations online will have the convenienceof using the Internet, but will not be givenpriority in securing reservations over ownerswho continue to book stays by phone.

The system will appear on a new versionof the Web site’s availability page, which willbe renamed “Vacation Planning.” The systemwill let you use a credit card to buy bonustime and pay for any special fees a reservationmight require. It will also include informationon construction disruptions, stairs/wheelchairaccessibility, and other reminders that youtypically hear from your vacation planningcounselor when you call in a reservation.

You will have 15 minutes to get throughthe online process. (During testing, thereservation process has never taken longerthan this amount of time.) The time limit ismeant to ensure that people don’t misusethe system to simply hold space at a resort.

The online system is designed toaccommodate the most common types ofreservations currently made over the phone,which make up about 98% of all reservations.However, at least initially, you won’t be ableto use the online system if you want to reservea unit by combining vacation credits andbonus time, or if you want to book an inven-tory special.

The new online system will be reliableand secure:

• The online system uses the samedatabase used by the Vacation PlanningCenter, so online reservations will have asimilar degree of reliability.

• Trendwest owns the computers thatprocess the transactions, and they sit in thecompany’s headquarters building and operatebehind the company’s Internet “firewall” thatprotects data from outsiders.

• All transactions are encrypted.• Trendwest is adding more servers to

accomodate online reservations.Overall, WorldMark owners already seem

like a Web-savvy bunch. Forty-five percentof you are registered on the club’s existingWeb site, www.worldmarktheclub.com. Anaverage of 3,000 more people register eachmonth, and the Owners Only section averages2,700 sign-ons a day.

We’ll keep you posted on this excitingnew resource!

Online Reservations

Victoria, B.C. Construction is under way at thisgorgeous location: The parking arcade is covered to groundlevel; vertical construction on the north tower is in progressthrough the second floor; and a complete model unit should beready by early June for final submittal approval. You can lookforward to visiting this 92-unit resort next spring.

There’s nothing like a couple of days in the mountainsto clear your head. Two nights of cool mountain air,alpine walks and warm sun with old friends at WorldMarkBig Bear dispelled all the city irritants, returning ourbodies and minds to a more pristine condition.

Big Bear Lake is a hundred miles east of LosAngeles—a city I hadn’t been to since a childhood tripto Disneyland, when the most impressive things werebackyard swimming pools and the shimmering heat ofthe traffic jams. This time, flying into LAX and cruisingthe labyrinth of streets, I was struck by the endless spreadof neighborhoods and especially the deeply foldedmountains that embrace the city.

O n e M a n ’ s L o s A n g e l e sMy old college buddy Tom meets me at the airport andright away starts showing me his LA—not downtownskyscrapers and Getty Center art, but lunch at a vegetarianjuice bar, planetary wine shopping at hole-in-the-wall

discounters, and a long drive from Venice Beach pastforested mansions to unexpectedly small downtown

Hollywood. We walk thered carpet of the stars to theAcademy Awards’ new

Kodak Theater and ascend tothe ancient movie-set motif of

Babylon Court, where white elephantsrear back atop tall piers and the famoustippy white letters of “Hollywood” can

be seen through the central arch. It’s socompact, new and neon-lit that it seems

more like a Hollywood theme park thanthe true center of the motion picture universe.

The traffic crawls by continuous blocksof low, faded, thick-walled commercial buildings

and scattered palm trees. A light haze obscures the toweringmountains. The air is thick and bland, and we’re bothsniffling. A sharp turn places us suddenly in a quietworking-class neighborhood with shrubs and trees. Tom’swife, Lisa, is waiting at their cute single-story home,where lemon trees, herbs and flowers grow in the back.

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During dinner at a local bistro, we discuss tomorrow’s trip to thewine country and the little Danish town of Solvang. Lisa informs merather sternly that we will not be sampling the pastries for which thetown is famous because they are way too good and would lead tooverdose. Instead, she will grill some marinated chicken for a lightpicnic while Tom finishes up a little office work and I read in bed.This seems fair.

W i n e C o u n t r y E x c u r s i o nSaturday morning, we breakfast on allergy pills and strawberries andhit the highways for the wine country. Tom keeps clearing his throat.Lisa asks for one Kleenex, then another, and finally takes the wholebox. The northbound road drops from six to three lanes as we cutthrough the dry hills of the hazy San Fernando Valley and pass citrusgroves and strawberry fields. The rumpled scrub hills are pretty behindsteamy clouds.

The air clears. We traverse the lovely Santa Ynez Valley’s rollinghills and scattered oaks, then pass horse pastures and corrals and enterSolvang. (WorldMark plans to open a resort here late next year.) Lisapeels off to do some unspecified “shopping” while Tom and I enter awine shop to gossip about clearance sales and vineyard purchases andtaste some wine. Or, rather, I taste and Tom drinks—his stuffy nosehas blocked his tastebuds.

We meet up with Lisa and motor a few miles to Foxen Vineyardsto picnic leisurely in the shady front yard under the warm sun. On theway back, we drive the palm-, pine- and sycamore-lined streets of SantaBarbara, admiring the handsome Mission, elegant streetside cafés and,most of all, a gleaming black mid-’60s Chevy Impala with all goldtrim that seems the incarnation of California car love.

I n t o t h e M o u n t a i n sLisa and I laze away Sunday morning as Tom checks e-mail and voicemail, failing to learn whether he has to show up for a Tuesday lunchwith a big client. He worries aloud about what could go wrong.

We leave the city and wind steeply above the haze to wide viewsof deep valleys, ranges of hills, blue sky and spun-glass clouds. Big,round windworn rocks overlook the village of Arrow Bear. Patches ofsnow cling to Snow Valley.

9

Big Bear-style

recreation includes

canoeing, mountain

biking and gentle

forest walks.

continued on page 15

June 2002 9

We drive the forrested lakeshore past turnoffs to theMagic Mountain Alpine Slide and Moonridge Animal Park,beyond chalet- and Old West-style buildings in and aroundthe plain little downtown, and check into WorldMark BigBear at the east end of the lake. Big Bear is a skier’s paradiseand the resort is definitely built to handle major snows, withpitched green metal roofs and wide eaves over the brown woodsiding. Inside our unit, pine tables and cabinets accentuatethe rustic atmosphere. We unpack, then double-back to tinyBig Bear City to forage for serious food. We bypass the super-markets near the resort and end up at the little Vintage Market.Its dowdy rear entrance looks so unpromising that we hesitateto enter, but inside we are astonished by a really good meatcounter and huge salmon filets longer than your arm on thecutting table.

Back at the resort, girls frolic in the outdoor spa, a loneswimmer plies the pool, a young family unpacks in the parkinglot, and a troupe of string players walks to a clubhouse concert.Tom takes over the kitchen, dusting the salmon with his ownhand-bottled secret paprika-spice concoction—“Tom’s FoodJoy,” says the label that Lisa designed for it, “Vaguely Cajun.”Out on the deck, I put fish on the grill and enjoy the quickmountain sunset. We eat like royalty and talk like philosopherstill sleep overtakes us.

S m e l l i n g t h e F o r e s tMonday morning, we review our activity options: Rent acanoe and spend the day fishing, try a little tennis, drive thespectacular Rim of the World Scenic Byway, or even take achair lift to the top of Snow Summit ski area and ride mountainbikes down. Nobody is sniffling much, but nobody feels likecommitting much time or energy, either. So we head out fora short walk to feel the sun on our backs in the mixed pines,oaks and granite boulders overlooking the northeast cornerof the lake, just a mile away. The cool air smells of juniper

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love the words “off-season.” I lived inNew York City for eleven years and amtoo well versed in maneuvering throughcrowds and waiting in line. So when the

opportunity arose to go to SteamboatSprings, Colorado, for what locals call

“Mud Season,” I was psyched. This wouldbe my first experience at any WorldMarkresort, and mountains, exploration and plentyof elbowroom would be my domain.

My husband, Steven, has work commit-ments and cannot join me, so I recruit myfriend Susan to be my traveling partner. Susanis a lacto-ovo vegetarian and does not owna television, so two challenges already markthis venture: finding restaurants with qual-ifying and satisfying menus, and draggingSusan out of our unit once she discovers shehas a TV in her bedroom.

Four Flavors of MountainsSusan and I fly into Denver and, apparently,a sitcom. We get lost on the way to our hotel;when we finally arrive, the kitchen has hada small fire and all occupants have beenevacuated out of their rooms. As I lookaround the lobby at children in jammiesclutching their security bears and one poorwoman caught in a mid-Clairol moment, Ihear my inner madcap heroine whine,“Waaahhh, Rickyyy!” I wonder what esca-pades the 160-mile drive to Steamboat willhold the next day.

Morning arrives without furtherelements of screwball comedy, and we set offtowards the resort. We’ve decided that ifanything looks intriguing on the three-hourdrive, we’ll take a side trip. In Golden, lessthan 30 minutes west of Denver, we see asign for Buffalo Bill’s Grave, so we go payhomage to the great showman. William F.Cody’s grave is lovely: natural stone surround-ed by wrought iron, scattered with smallchange that people have thrown in for good

luck. Mrs. Cody is buried there as well, whichsurprises me—I had always thought ofBuffalo Bill as a swinging single. The scrubbyPonderosa pines of Lookout Mountain framea panorama that includes an aquamarinelake, the Rockies in ever-snowier progressionand increasing numbers of cyclists out forthe first sunny day of spring.

On the road again, we begin our ascentthrough the Rockies in earnest. For the nexthour, I look at the surrounding mountainsand marvel at the many shades of brown.The hills are huge scoops of chocolate ice

cream: some bittersweet dark, some gentledwith cream, some, quite literally, Rocky Road.In Silverthorne the mountains’ flavorgradually shifts to mint-chip, as green startsstudding the landscape with increasingfrequency. We see sporadic working rancheswith enormous entrance gates and jet blackcows dotting the acreage, their calves curiouslywhite or pale brown. During the final leg ofour journey, the landscape turns quite vanilla,and the sight of curving snowmobile tracksheightens my eagerness to reach the resortand start my own exploration.

S t e a m b o a tS p r i n g s

Playing in thePlaying in the

B Y

B E Á T A

J A C H U L S K I - B A K E R

F I S H C RE E K F A L L S / P H O T O B Y P E T E K O P I S C H K E , C O U RT E S Y S T E A M B O A T S P R I N G S C H A M B E R R E S O R T A S S O C I A T I O N

Aerobic ShoppingAt WorldMark SteamboatSprings, I open the door andimmediately fall in love with thechainsaw-art bear sculpturegreeting us cheerily from thehearth. The two-bedroom unitis set up perfectly for privacy, andSusan and I joke about eachhaving our own “wing.” Thewindow seat in my bedroom—complete with overhead light—seals my enchantment: I couldspend the next two days rightthere reading and be a happy gal.But the town beckons.

Downtown is a straight shotfour miles up U.S. Highway 40,which becomes Lincoln Avenue,Steamboat’s Main Street. We parkat the far northwest end andcommence flexing our shoppingmuscles. An antique store calledFiddleFern is full of lovely fur-nishings, curios, linens and ahuge, happy standard poodlenamed Onyx. I could go brokeon the vintage hats alone, butsteel my resolve and limit myselfto a few well-priced gifts. TheSteamboat Art Company encom-passes four rooms of pure tempta-tion, with handcrafted jewelry,clothing, furniture and uniquehousewares. Embellishmentscarries some of the most distinct-ive imported furnishings andaccessories I’ve ever seen: Thereis a mirror framed with cross-section rounds of South Ameri-can vines that is astonishing,and priced to reflect its labor-intensive production. We getout before we lose all sense offiscal responsibility.

It’s definitely dinnertime andthough restaurant optionsabound, the TVs and windowseats of the condo are singing thesiren’s song. Between Safewayand Healthy Solutions, a well-stocked natural foods store, wepick up an intercontinentalbuffet, and graze contentedly

while watching Bette Davis andErrol Flynn chew the scenery in“The Private Lives of Elizabethand Essex.” I spend some qualityreading time on the comfy cush-ions of my window seat, thensurrender to bed.

Hiking, History and HotSpringsThe next day dawns bright andclear. The Yampa River CoreTrail—a paved path runningadjacent to the river that connectsone side of town to the other—passes by my window and peopleare already out enjoying the warmsunshine. Susan spots a fox, andI’m elated that this kind ofwildness is right outside our door.

This is our only full day inSteamboat, and we’ve plannedour agenda around the threeH’s—hiking, history and hotsprings. Our first stop is FishCreek Falls, a quick ride fromdowntown. I’m embarrassed bythe shortness of breath and thehead-rush I get on the first

incline, but Susan feels it too,and it passes quickly. (The townis at a 6,695-foot elevation.) Aswe hike to the waterfall obser-vation spot, the snow is amazinglypristine so late in the season.Crisp birches and occasionalevergreens form a lovely lattice-work through which we catchsneak peeks of the mountainsand falls.

One hundred and fifty min-eral pools pepper the Steamboatarea and small bubbling poolsflourish throughout downtown,so we decide to do an impromptuwalking tour. Placards withnuggets of history are as abundantas the springs, and we educateourselves along the way. Legendhas it that in 1865, three Frenchtrappers perceived a chuggingsound as they traveled along theYampa River. It was not asteamboat, but the sound ofspring water pulsing upwardsfrom its underground source.Sadly, progress brought an endto the town’s natural music: In

1908, dynamite work for railroadtracks disturbed the springs’foundation and the chuggingceased. But the springs and theirsulfuric tang remain, along withthe name Steamboat Springs.

At this point, we’re starving,and the Old Town Pub and Res-taurant—with its hundred-year-old bar—is an irresistible choicefor lunch. In the cool darknessof the pub, Susan finds happinessin a delectable sautéed Portabellamushroom sandwich, and Idelight in sublimely crisp andgreaseless fish and chips, withcoleslaw that packs a nicefinishing kick of jalapeno. Fordessert, we head to Lyon Drug.This charming emporium hasthankfully held on to its old-fashioned soda fountain, andseeing the pale-green HamiltonBeach malted machine immed-iately hurtles me back to myyouth, when I would sit at thecounter of the Imperial Drugstorein Detroit and drink 5¢ bottlesof Coca-Cola. Lyon’s counteris packed, but it’s worth thewait for my classic chocolateshake. Susan opts for mint-chip,and the shakes are so large I’mconvinced they’ll take hoursto consume.

Twenty minutes later we arestumbling along the streets,stupid with sugar and needing to

One hundred and fifty mineralpools pepper the Steamboat areaand small bubbling poolsflourish throughout downtown. continued on page 15

June 2002 11

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S N O W Y B I RC H E S / P H O T O B Y B E Á T A J A C H U L S K I - B A K E R

turesadven t r a v e l

Have you ever seen Humboldt County’s majesticCoastal Redwoods? Entering a toweringredwood grove has been likened to walkingthrough the portals of a cathedral. There’s asense of peace and reverence as you passbetween the lofty pillars along aisles carpetedwith moss and trillium, while the sunlight filtershigh above through the canopy like a greatstained glass window.

This Labor Day weekend, come to Eureka.The city, located 280 miles north of SanFrancisco, remains one of California’s best-kept secrets. Bordered on one side by gorgeousHumboldt Bay and on the other by mountainslush with redwoods, the city showcases thearea’s rich logging heritage. The famous Avenueof the Giants is only 45 minutes away. Whilehere, you’ll also want to explore the picturesque

Victorian Old Town, state and national parks,the Sequoia Park and Zoo and ocean beaches.

August 30 – September 14,250 credits per hotel room

(sleeps four people)

This includes three nights’ accommodationat the Eureka Red Lion Hotel, which has anoutdoor pool and spa, fitness center and PacificGrill restaurant. R.J. Grin’s Lounge features liveentertainment. Golf, whitewater rafting andcharter fishing are available close by.

Call 1-800-457-0103 to reserve your room.

Subject to change and availability. Airfare not included.The Eureka/Arcata Municipal Airport is 15 minutes away.Call Trendwest Travel at 1-800-953-5511 to bookyour airfare.

California’s ancient redwood forests

12 DEST INAT IONS

Online Trendwest

Travel

Book your airfare, carrentals and hotel

accommodations online atwww.worldmarktheclub.com(click on “Trendwest Travel”).

Summer Fun inUrban LocalesThis summer, would you like to visitDisneyland and stay in Anaheim?How about a romantic weekend indowntown San Francisco or Seattle?Or perhaps some tax-free shoppingin Portland? WorldMark is partneringwith Ramada Plaza Hotels and WestCoast Hotels to offer you urbanlocations in select cities. You can useyour WorldMark credits to book aweekend or a week. Call the VacationPlanning Center at 1-800-457-0103for more information. Also look forfurther details on this new vacationoption in next month’s Destinations.

EUREKA!

““A good walker leavesno tracks. —Lao Tzu

Bermuda Memorial CruiseWhat better way to commemorate thetragedy of September 11 than atGround Zero with the strains of ournational anthem filling the air? Join arare and special pilgrimage andweeklong memorial cruise from NewYork City to Bermuda and back. Payyour respects where the Twin Towersonce stood.

The cruise to tropical Bermudaincludes entertainment by Canada’sgreat new country band “SteeleHeart,” made up of members of theRoyal Canadian Mounted Police. Enjoythe charms of Bermuda and its friendlypeople as the Pacific Princess—theoriginal “Love Boat”—stops at St.George, Hamilton and the Royal Navydock for an unforgettable trip.

To make a good thing better, thiscruise is Canadian-sponsored, so U.S.dollars stretch farther and Canadiandollars don’t have to stretch at all.

October 6 – 13$1,140 – $1,430 CAD perperson, double occupancy

To make your reservations, callAnne Norder at Four Seasons Travel(1-866-826-5212) or send e-mail [email protected] you wish to use Trendwest Travel tomake your New York flight arrange-ments, call 1-800-953-5511.

Subject to change and availability. $198.29CAD for government and transfer fees notincluded.

Eastern CaribbeanCruise of the Century

Alexandria, Virginia

Capistrano, California

Carlsbad, California

Fairmont, Canada

Mazatlan, Mexico

Maui, Hawaii

Newport, Oregon

Oahu, Hawaii

Orlando, Florida

Scottsdale, Arizona

Sun Valley, Idaho

direct

off you go

For more information on these popularexchange destinations, call the VacationPlanning Center at 1-800-457-0103.

exchange

Ciao! Bonjour! Hello!Spend a week in Europe, using your WorldMarkcredits to get you there and back.

We do all the work for you. The only decisionsyou need to make are where to visit and who you’dlike to bring along. Each tour includes roundtripairfare from major West Coast cities, hotelaccommodation, transportation to hotels and privatetours with your fellow WorldMark owners.

Savor the fascinating highlights of these cities.In Rome, feel the spiritual power of the Vatican andvisit the mysterious remnants of Pompeii. In Paris,marvel at the architectural masterpiece that is theEiffel Tower and walk in the footsteps of royalty atthe Palace of Versailles. In London, feel the ghostlypresence of England’s kings and queens in thetombs at Westminster Abbey, and visit WindsorCastle, the largest inhabited castle in the world.

Which city is calling you to Europe this winter?

RomeNovember 2 – 9

45,500 credits for two

ParisNovember 8 – 15

38,000 credits for two

LondonNovember 14 – 21

36,500 credits for two

Paris and LondonNovember 8 – 21

31,500 credits per person

Phone 1-800-457-0103 for more information. All tours subjectto change and availability. Cash ’n’ Credits options available.$129 USD exchange fee not included. Airfare is included fromSeattle, San Francisco and Los Angeles. Other cities have anair supplement charge.

This winter, deepen and heighten yourocean experience on Celebrity’s seven-day Eastern Caribbean cruise aboard theCentury. Take advantage of optional shoreexcursions at St. Thomas to traverse thedepths in a submarine, then get a bird’s-eye view of the Virgin Islands from ahelicopter. Comb the beach, savor a sun-soaked repose and build sandcastles onan excursion to Magen’s Bay Beach.

At Nassau, join a one-of-a-kind tourdedicated to Nassau’s pirate history. Petand feed a friendly stingray. Hear a lectureon the habits of the dolphin while enjoyinga rare opportunity to interact with thesegentle creatures.

Gear up for snorkeling in St. Maarten,then race a multimillion-dollar America’sCup sailboat, go on a certified dive, orenjoy shopping and island sightseeing.

See historic San Juan come alive witha city and rum distillery tour. Spend a fullday swimming and exploring the rainforest. Then let the night reverberate withthe Latin rhythms of a rumba show.

November 16 – 23Inside cabin:

21,000 credits for twoOutside cabin:

23,500 credits for twoBalcony cabin:

45,000 credits for two

What are you waiting for? Call theVacation Planning Center at 1-800-457-0103 to reserve your cabin today.

Subject to change and availability. Port fees andtax included. $129 USD exchange fee not included.

June 2002 13

This past March, 25 WorldMarkowners set out on a trek throughmythical southern Ireland. Hereare some of the highlights.

DublinTo my surprise, I was greeted atthe Ashling hotel by Irish Rugbyfans dressed in their traditionalkilts for the annual match versusScotland. For the next two days,there was never a dull moment.Dublin is an amazing city. Histor-ical monuments mix with newbuildings, hotels and trendy res-taurants. Cobblestone streets,gas lamps, small family-ownedshops and quaint pubs preservethe traditional Irish feel.

Our guided city tour includedentrance to St. Patrick’s Cathe-dral, which has been standing forover 700 years. We also viewedTrinity College, which houses thehistorical book of Kells, and hadtime to take a leisurely walkthrough the shopping districts.Some of us toured the famousGuinness Brewery and learnedthe history and making of thespecial brew. (Of course, therewas a complimentary taste testat the end.) The gift shop wasunbeatable and I found that itattracted locals who want to keeptheir pubs up to date with thelatest signs and bar towels.

WaterfordWe were fortunate that we bookedahead for a guided tour throughthe world-famous WaterfordCrystal Factory. After witnessingthe lengthy and intricate process

that takes place inside, there’s nowonder why Waterford Crystal isthe best. We were also treated toa brief stop in a village calledYoughal, where the movie “MobyDick” was filmed.

KillarneyOn the fifth day, we traveled westto Killarney with a stop in Cork tokiss the Blarney Stone. It is be-lieved that those who kiss theBlarney Stone receive the “gift of

gab.” The stone is located at thevery top of Blarney Castle, andlooked unmistakably magical.After winding our way up throughsmall corridors, we were amazedat the view. Overlooking miles ofgreen pastures and gardens, youfelt as though you were in a fairytale. We then traveled onto Killar-ney, surrounded by magnificentlakes and mountains.

The following day, we wereoff on yet another day trip, driving

the 110-mile Ring (or peninsula)of Kerry to some of the wonderfulviews that Ireland is famous for.Although we had a mist of rainon that day, I still believe Kerry isthe most beautiful place on earth.

BunrattyOn the seventh day, we travelednorth over the River Shannon toBunratty, where we spent our lastevening together. Our remarkablehotel was adjacent to the BunrattyCastle and Folk Park. In 1954, thecastle was perfectly restored andis now furnished with authenticmedieval furniture, armorialstained glass, magnificent tapes-tries and fine works of art. Wewere able to walk through thecastle and view detailed stainedglass windows and rooms decor-ated as they were originally in1425. Upon leaving the castle,we strolled through Folk Park,which is a working recreation ofa 19th-century Irish village.

In the evening, our groupparticipated in a traditional Irishdinner at the hotel restaurantfeaturing “Kathleen’s Irish Nights.”This four-course meal with winecame complete with Irish danceand song. Our host and live bandsang Irish melodies for us all night.The highlight of the evening waswitnessing our owners collectivelytake the stage, sing “MollyMalone,” play the spoons andlearn traditional dance. It was anevening I will never forget!

turesadven t r a v e l

The Emerald IsleB Y H E A T H E R H A R T , T R E N D W E S T T R A V E L G R O U P C O O R D I N A T O R

t r a v e l r e p o r t

HolidayPlease note: Trendwest

Travel, Owner Services and

the Air and Condo Team will

be closed on July 4 for

Independence Day. Reser-

vations will be working with

a smaller crew.

D U B L I N T E A H O U S E / A RT T O D AY. C O M

June 2002 15

walk off the buzz. We do one last loop,strolling towards Howelsen Hill. Namedafter Carl Howelsen—a Norwegianstonemason who arrived in 1913, builta ski jump, hurled himself off it and sobrought recreational skiing to Steam-boat—the Hill is the oldest continuouslyoperating ski area in Colorado. The 90-meter ski jump and surrounding moun-tain provide ideal training conditions forOlympic hopefuls.

The thought of so much athleticismreminds us that our final “H” still awaits—hot springs. An excellent facility is right downtown at the Steamboat Springs Health andRecreation Association, but Susan and I want a wilderness experience. We drive seven milesto Strawberry Park Hot Springs, with the final three miles being unpaved, extremely ruttedand fully deserving of the four-wheel-drive mandate that exists from November to May.

Strawberry Park sits on 40 acres bordered by national forest, and offers three soakingpools with graduated levels of heat, regulated by cold creek water. A massage hut andprivate pool are off to one side, and Susan and I both choose to indulge in a session ofWatsu, a floating massage performed in the hot spring water using Zen Shiatsu. In theexpert hands of masseuse Julie Tucek, I am floated, stretched, kneaded, cradled and giventhe closest thing to an out-of-body experience I have ever known. I am so relaxed after thehalf hour that I need some time to reassemble myself into solid form again. While Susanhas her session, I relax in the medium-hot pool, thrill to the snow-snuggled background,and get a feel for the rhythm of the setting. There is a clothing-optional policy after nightfalland 3.2-percent alcohol beer is allowed. We had arrived in early evening as families wereleaving, but now that dusk is gathering, the mood is definitely switching to “Party on,dude!” I feel old and amused at the same time. Susan comes out of the hut with themasseuse; we pour her into the car and head back to the resort for hot showers, internationalsnacking, more window-seat reading and the bliss of sleep.

Wistful ThinkingThe final morning of our Steamboat adventure sees gray skies, and all reports from localnews indicate that rain is coming. I sink back into the pillows I’ve brought to my windowseat, sip coffee and gaze out over the Yampa River. I ponder the activities that the summermonths will soon be bringing: Athletes will strive at the Sore Saddle Bike Festival, 21st-annual Steamboat Marathon and 10K Race. Art and culture will thrive with theater, freeconcerts and the Strings in the Mountains Festival of Music. Tradition will be upheld withthe Cowboy Roundup Days, Rainbow Weekend and the Routt County Fair. All restaurantsand shops will be open and at capacity again. I would love to experience it all.

But I feel lucky to have had my first taste of Steamboat Springs during a quieter time.The closings that come with Mud Season haven’t deprived me in the least—I’ve reveledin nature, shopped like a pro and eaten like a bear at a picnic. We check out of our unitand drive into town for gas and one more retail stop. Kali’s Boutique has tempted me forthe last two days with a wonderful hat in its display window, and I must at least see howmuch it is. As I pick up the straw confection, a designer label I recognize dangles out andmy heart sinks: I already know I can’t afford it. But I try it on, savor the moment and leaveit behind. Maybe next time. Because I’ll be back—just save me the window seat.

and minerals. Birds are flitting andchirping everywhere. Lizards scurry inthe duff. Wildflowers are just startingto bloom. We photograph a tall pinewhere Acorn Woodpeckers have drilledhundreds of nickel-sized holes to storenuts from a nearby oak grove. The onlysounds are rustling trees, birdsong andour boots scratching the dirt.

We stop at a small stand of Jeffreypines hundreds of years old. A printedtrail guide tells us many people thinkthe bark smells like vanilla, so I take asniff and detect the subtle odor. Tomnoses the tree and says he gets vanilla,too. We break into grins. His sense ofsmell is back!

That night, Tom’s Joy-crustedsteaks are succulent. He opens somespecial wine he’s been saving for 15years and it’s really good, with scentsof dried berries, herbs and earth. Welinger at the table for hours. WhenTom finds out that his noon meetingis on for tomorrow, he hardly cares.We bask in the glow of good fellowshipand satisfied senses.

D e s c e n t i n t o L AWe wake early Tuesday and leave at8:00 a.m., taking the quiet north shoreroad past scattered trailheads. Tom’spoetic sensibilities seem particularlyacute. He points out a white solarobservatory perfectly placed in thebrilliant sunlit waters. The coffee shopsare closed—“the definition of a sleepylittle town,” he jokes. We look downpast ridges onto clouds rimmed bydistant mountains, “like a big bowl ofcotton balls,” he says.

The drive down is even morebeautiful than the drive up. I ask Tomabout his impending lunch, and heshrugs. “I haven’t been thinking aboutit much,” he says. The weekend glowcontinues.

Tom and Lisa drop me at theairport with hugs and smiles and driveoff, an island of peace and contentmentmerging into the LA traffic. B

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S t e a m b o a t S p r i n g s

D U S K I N S T E A M B O A T S P R I N G S / P H O T O B Y D A V E H O L L O W AY,C O U RT E S Y S T E A M B O A T S P R I N G S C H A M B E R R E S O R T A S S O C I A T I O N

Big Bear