sample: explorer's guide maine, 16th ed

7/30/2019 SAMPLE: Explorer's Guide Maine, 16th Ed.

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M I D C O A S T I S L A N D SM O N H E G A N ; T H E F O X I S L A N D S : V I N A L H A V E NA N D N O R T H H A V E N ; M A T I N I C U S

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M O N H E G A NThis island is endless and wonderful in its variety. Its possessed of enough beauty

to supply a continent.

Artist George Bellows, on first seeing Monhegan

Eleven miles at sea and barely a mile square, Monhegan is a microcosm of Mainelandscapes, from 160-foot sheer headlands to pine woods, from wildflower-filledinland meadows to the smooth, low rocks along Lobster Cove. Beached like a

whale is the way one mariner in 1590 described the islands shape: headlands

sloping down to the small off-island of Manana, a blip on Monhegans silhouette.Monhegan is known for the quality and quantity of its artists and the grit of itslobstermen, who fish October through June. The islands first recorded artistarrived in 1858, and by the 1870s a hotel and several boardinghouses were filled

with summer guests, many of themartists. In 1903 Robert Henri, afounder of New Yorks Ashcan Schooland a well-known art teacher, discov-ered Monhegan and soon introduced it

to his students, among them GeorgeBellows and Rockwell Kent. The islandremains a genuine art colony. Jamie

Wyeth owns a house built by RockwellKent, and Rockwell Kent has passedhis studio on to James Fitzgerald.More than 20 artists regularly opentheir studios to visitors.

The island continues to draw artists

in good part because its beauty notonly survives but also remains accessi-ble. Prospect Hill, the only attempteddevelopment, foundered around 1900.It was Theodore Edison, son of theinventor, who amassed property

THE ROPE SHED, MONHEGAN ISLANDS

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enough to erase its traces and keep the islands cottages (which still number just130 or so) bunched along the sheltered harbor, the rest preserved as commonspace and laced with 17 miles of footpaths.

In 1954 Edison helped organize Monhegan Associates, a nonprofit corporationdedicated to preserving the natural, wild beauty of the island. Ironically, this wasone of the countrys few communities to shun electricity until relatively recently. A

number of homes and one inn still use kerosene lamps. Vehicles are limited to afew trucks for those with businesses and golf carts for those with medical needs.Petroglyphs on Manana Island (just offshore) are said to have been carved by

Norsemen, but a plaque beside the schoolhouse states that the island was discov-ered by Captain John Smith in 1614. Native American artifacts on display in theMonhegan Museum may date back 8,000 years. The islands present settlementhas been continuous since 1790; its been a plantation since 1839. The year-

round population of less than 50 swellsin summer to a little more than 600,not counting roughly 100 seasonalemployees, 300 overnight guests, andup to 300 day-trippers. Visitors come to

walk, to paint, to bird, and to reflect. Anumber of them come alone.

Monhegan has three inns, a B&B,several nightly rentals, and a limitednumber of weekly rental cottages. Fogand a frequently rough passage insulateit to some degree, but on summer daysa high tide of day-trippers from Booth-bay Harbor and New Harbor, as well asPort Clyde, washes over this small,fragile island. More worrisome still areskyrocketing real estate prices. Mon-hegan Island Sustainable Community

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COMING ASHORE ON MONHEGAN ISLAND

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PLEIN-AIR PAINTING Christina Tree


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Association (MISCA) is now dedicatedto ensuring affordable housing for year-round residents.

G U I D A N C E A Visitors Guide to Mon-hegan Island, Maine, a free 10-page

leaflet, comes with every boat ticket tothe island in the hope that visitors willread about the dangers and rules as

well as the obvious beauty of the cliff-side trails on the islands backside. TheMonhegan Associates Trail Map, alsoavailable on the boats, is well worth a$1 (see Hiking), and the free StudioLocations sheet (see the chapter intro)

is also handy if you want to meet resi-dent artists. Also check out monhegan.com, the site for Monhegan Com-mons, not your usual chamber of com-merce (there isnt one).

G E T T I N G T H E R E Monhegan Boat Line (207-372-8848; monheganboat.com)operates both the sleek Elizabeth Ann and the beloved oldLaura B from PortClyde; reservations a must. Service is three times daily in-season, less frequent in

spring and fall, and only Mon., Wed., and Fri. in winter. Its a 50- or 70-minutetrip, depending on which boat you catch. Mid-MayColumbus Day weekendHardy Boat Cruises (1-800-278-3346; hardyboat.com) offers a 50-minute runfrom New Harbor with two daily roundtrips early JuneSeptember. The OceanHouse in Port Clyde and the Gosnold Arms in New Harbor are within walkingdistance of these two services, taking the sting out of making morning boats. TheBalmy Days II (1-800-298-2284; balmydaycruises.com) also offers seasonalroundtrips from Boothbay.

E Q U I P M E N T A N D R U L E S Comeproperly shod for the precipitouspaths. Hikers should wear long pantsand socks against poison ivy; bringsweaters and windbreakers. Wading orswimming anywhere but Swim Beach(on the harbor) can be lethal. Duringour last visit in 2011 a young man was

washed away by a rogue wave. Kayak-

ing is also dangerous. Flashlights, hik-ing boots, and rain gear are also goodideas. Public phones are few; cellphone reception has improved, thanksto an intrusive tower that now dwarfsthe lighthouse, but is still undepend-able. Smoking is prohibited beyond

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CLIFF COMBERChristina Tree

SWIMMERS IN GULL COVE

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the village. So is camping. Do not bring bicycles. Dogs must be leashed at alltimes. Andplease dont pick the flowers.

P U B L I C R E S T R O O M S The two public pay toilets are on a lane behind theMonhegan House.

G E T T I N G A R O U N D Several trucks meet each boat as it arrives and provide bag-gage service. Otherwise visitors have no access to motorized transport.

W H E N T O C O M E The spring migration season brings birds and birders. Junecan be rainy and foggybut also glorious and always flowery, with wild strawber-ries to be found along hiking paths. July and August are prime time, but Septem-ber is best for hiking; birds and birders return.

3 To SeeMonhegan Island Light, built of granite in 1850 and automated in 1959, caps a

hill thats well worth climbing for the view alone. The Monhegan Historical &Cultural Museum (207-596-7003; monheganmuseum.org) is a real gem. In July

and Aug. its open daily 11:303:30; inlate June and all Sept. its 1:303:30. $4suggested donation. A spellbinding dis-play of island art, including prints byGeorge Bellows and Rockwell Kent,and annual special exhibits in theneighboring gallery.Flora, fauna, some

geology, lobstering, and island historyare interpreted through artifacts,including documents dating back to the16th century. The neighboringArtGalleryhouses annually changingexhibits.

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THE VIEW FROM THE LIGHTHOUSE

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THE FITZGERALD STUDIO IS OPEN TO

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The Kent-Fitzgerald-Hubert House. Horn Hill. Open seasonally, Tue. and Sat.13. Built by Rockwell Kent, it later served as a home and studio for JamesFitzgerald (18991971), one of the most distinctive and prominent artists for

whom Monhegan has been a home and inspiration.

3 To DoB I R D I N G Positioned in the middle of the Atlantic flyway, Monhegan is one of thebest birding places on the East Coast. Your local Audubon Society may have a tripgoing in May or mid- through late September.

H I K I N G Pick up a current Monhegan Associates Trail Map before setting out onthe islands 17-mile network. Day-trippers are advised to take the Burnt HeadTrail (No. 4) and loop back to the village via theWhitehead Trail (No. 7),descending by the lighthouse, or vice versa. This way you get a sense of the highbluffs and the unusual rocks in Gull Cove. Beyond this well-trod loop, trails aremarked with few guideposts. Its easy to get turned around in Cathedral Woods(justly famed and known for its fairy houses), which, along with Pulpit Rock,should be reserved for an unhurried day. The path along the southern outer tip ofthe island, from Burnt Head to Christmas Cove, is ledgy and unsuitable for chil-dren and shaky hikers. The relatively flat trail from the village to Lobster Cove atthe southern tip of the island is a favorite and has recently been improved. It can,however, be the muddiest and slipperiest of all after rains. Be sure to bring a flash-light if you are setting out toward evening, just in case you get lostthe fate of our

brother-in-law, who wandered around all through the night.

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HIKING THE BACK SIDE OF MONHEGANChristina Tree


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3 Lodging

All listings are on MonheganIsland 04852Note: Lodging is limited but remark-ably varied.

I N N S Island Inn (207-596-0371;islandinnmonhegan.com). OpenMemorial DayColumbus Day week-end. This shingled, cupola-topped,gabled, classic 1907 summer hotel witha long, rocker-lined veranda is stepsfrom the ferry dock and overlooks theboat-filled harbor and Manana Island.In recent years it has been steadily

renovated, and public rooms are a win-ning mix of old-fashioned and chic,

with a comfortable living room andbook-stocked side porches. The nicelydecorated dining room has the harbor

view (see Dining Out). The 28 roomsand four suites are divided betweenthe main inn and Pierce Cottagebehind it. Opt for a room with a view

in the inn itself. Eight rooms stillshare baths. In high season (late JulyLabor Day), from $165 per couple(shared bath, meadow view) to $350395 for suites. Otherwise $130285,depending on room and week. $5 gra-tuity added per day and $10 charge forone-night stays. Children under 5 arefree if no extra bedding is required. All

rates include a full breakfast, servedbuffet-style, usually featuring lobstercasserole.

cMonhegan House (207-594-7983;monheganhouse.com), P.O. Box 345.Open Memorial Dayearly Oct.Holden and Susan Nelson have revivedMonhegans oldest continuously operat-ing summer hotel, upgrading both

infrastructure and decor. Two suiteswith bath and a deck have been added,and more are planned. Built in 1870s inthe middle of the village, it offers 28rooms on four floors. No closets, andmost baths and showers (plentiful andimmaculate) are in a wing off the mid-

dle of the second floor. For couples andfamilies we recommend the third floor;for singles the bargain-priced fourth-floor rooms have the best views (cov-eted by artists). The downstairs lobby istastefully decorated, hung with art,

warmed by a gas fireplace, andequipped with books and games. Onsunny days guests opt for the porch,

watching the comings and goings ofeveryone on the island. Children are

welcome and free under age 3. A fullbreakfast is included in the rates($87171 in high season, $190221 forsuites; $77171 in low). Head in for

breakfast before 8 AM, because its opento the public and very popular. Dinneris also excellent (see Dining Out).

v p c The Trailing Yew (207-596-6194; trailingyew.com). Open mid-Maymid-Oct. This quirky institutionhas a loyal following among artists and

writers. New Englands last genuine19th-century-style summer boarding-

house, its the place for the many solotravelers drawn to Monhegan. The 33rooms are divided among the mainhouse and adjacent annexes and cot-tages on the grounds and The MooringChain (good only for groups) up theroad. Each building has its own sittingroom. Guest rooms are comfortable, lit

with kerosene lamps. With the excep-

tion of The Cabin, baths are sharedbut clean, numerous enough to goaround, and they have electricity

which, with the advent of cell phonesand laptops, does mean competitionfor the outlets. In shoulder seasons itsadvisable to bring a sleeping bag. Din-ing is at 5:45 at shared tables, and theconversation is usually lively (BYOB).

Dinner is open to the public: $32 forfour courses, tax and gratuity included.Two rooms in Lower Seagull aregeared to families. $120 per personsolo, $210 double includes breakfastand dinner; sliding scale ages 212.$10 pet fee. No credit cards.

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323B E D & B R E A K F A S T % c ShiningSails (207-596-0041; shiningsails.com),P.O. Box 346. Open year-round. Lob-sterman John Murdock and his wife,

Winnie, offer two rooms and fiveexceptional apartments in their wel-

coming village home overlooking thewater. All five water-view units have adeck, the better to savor the sunsetand stars. All rooms are tastefully dec-orated, featuring original island art. Onfoggy days a woodstove warms the liv-ing room, where an ample continentalbreakfast is served daily, MayColumbusDay. The Murdocks are helpful hosts

and this place is so justly popular, itsadvisable to book far in advance forJuly and August, but there are alwayssome openings. $145220 per night,$110165 off-season. Also see Rentals.

G U E S T H O U S E S A N D D A I LY

R E N T A L S Hitchcock House (207-594-8137; hitchcockhouse.com),

Horns Hill. Open year-round. Hiddenaway on Horns Hill with a delightfulgarden and a large, sheltered deck,

which serves as common space forguests. In the house itself BarbaraHitchcock offers two appealing house-keeping units, both with decks with

views down across the meadows to thevillage and water. There are also two

upstairs guest rooms, each with a smallfridge and a hot pot, sharing one bath;a cabin in the garden has a fullkitchen, living room, and bath.JulyLabor Day weekend efficienciesare $120130 per night, $760840 per

week; rooms are $85 per night, $520per week, less off-season.

Tribler Cottage (207-594-2445;

triblercottage.com). Open mid-Maymid-Oct. On the edge of the Meadow,at the base of Lighthouse Hill, thisremains in the same family that hasbeen welcoming visitors since the1920s. Richard Farrell offers fourhousekeeping apartments and one

housekeeping room. All have privatebath; one apartment (Hillside) has asundeck and living room with fire-place, while another (accommodatingthree) has a gas heater and is availableoff-season. $85140 per couple per

night based on two-night stay;$560945 weekly, less off-season.

Fish & Maine (207-596-0041; shiningsails.com). Four attractive apartmentsin the middle of the village, just offFish Beach, two with harbor views anddecks. From $165 per night ($1,055per week) for a one-bedroom with afull kitchen and gas fireplace to $235

($1,510 per week) for a two-bedroomwith deck and harbor view. Less off-season.

W E E K LY R E N TA L S Cooking facili-ties come in handy here: You can buylobster, good fresh and smoked fish,and a limited line of vegetables (bringmeat and staples). Shining Sails Cot-

tage Rental (207-596-0041; shiningsails.com) manages more than 30rental cottages, available by the week.Demand is high, and its wise to getin your bid in early January for thesummer. $8402,900 per week, lessoff-season.

FISH BEACH Nancy English


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3Where to EatNote: Restaurants are BYOB, but wineis readily available in island stores.

D I N I N G O U T The Island Inn (207-596-0371). Open to the public Memo-

rial DayColumbus Day for breakfastand dinner, also for lunch July 4LaborDay. This classic, turn-of-the-20th-century dining room has contemporarydecor and water views. The breakfastfrequently features lobster casserole.Reserve for dinner and request a tableoverlooking the water. Appetizers usu-ally include lobster stew. We can vouch

for pan-seared scallops on a bed ofmixed greens and tangy Maine crab-cakes with the house herb and chiveaioli. Both came with Israeli couscousand crisp green beans. Entres$1936.

Monhegan House Open nightly lateJuneLabor Day, then weekends. Theattractive, many-windowed dining

room at the back of the inn overlooksthe village and meadow. Breakfastsfeature house-made breads and

omelets. The dinner menu changesnightly and always includes a vegetar-ian option. You might dine on a house-made onion and lavender sausage,haddock en papillote, honey brinedchicken, or cumin-scented scallops.

Dessert might be lemon mousse withblueberry sauce and Chantilly cream.Entres $2227.

E A T I N G O U T % The Fish HouseMarket, Fish Beach. Open daily. Theseasonal source of the freshest ofseafood for anyone with cooking facili-ties. Better yet, anyone can enjoy

Damariscotta oysters, steamed clams,the islands best crab and lobster rolls,and daily specials to eat at picnic tableson Fish Beach with the islands best

view of the sun setting behind MananaIsland (BYOB).

The Barnacle. Sited beside the ferrywharf and owned by the Island Inn,the Barnacle offers limited seating on

the deck and inside. Sandwiches,soups, and pastries; also espresso andprepared sandwiches. Wine and beersold.

The Novelty, behind MonheganHouse. Pizza, soups and sandwiches,quiche, salads and hot wraps. Freshlymade cookies are great hiking fuel as

you set off up Horns Hill. Hand-dipped ice cream and frozen yogurt hitthe spot on the way down. Wine, beer,splits of champagne. Outside seating.

Black Duck Emporium. OpenMemorial DayColumbus Day in theformer general store. Sited at the cen-ter of the village, next to the postoffice, this is the current island gather-

ing place, good for snacks and pastry aswell as coffee, tea, etc.

3 Selective ShoppingA R T G A L L E R I E S The LupineGallery(207-594-8131; lupinegallery.com), 48 Main St. Open early May

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THE VILLAGELiam Davis


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Columbus Day, 114:30. Bill Boyntonand Jackie Bogel offer original worksby 100 artists who paint regularly onthe island. This is a very special gallery,showcasing the work of many profes-sional artists within walking distance.

Sited just uphill from the ferry dock,its a good place to judge which studios

you want to visit. Great cards, prints,and art books, also artists supplies andframing.

Open studios. More than 20 residentartists welcome visitors to their studios;pick up a map/guide and schedule,check The Rope Shed, or look for

shingles hung outside listing the hourstheyre open. Don Stone is the currentdean of Monhegan painters, and hisstudio on the way to Burnt Head isopen by chance or appointment.

S P E C I A L S H O P S Black DuckEmporium. Open MemorialDayColumbus Day. This longtimeisland gift store has expanded to fill theformer general store, offering cappuc-cino and pastries as well as a selection

of imaginative T-shirts, books, kitchen-ware, pottery, jewelry, and more.

Carina. Groceries, a few booths overcoffee, tea, and fresh-baked goods. Itsalso a prime source of wines, produce,and daily newspapers.

Winterworks. Open more or less dailyMemorial DayLabor Day, by the ferry

dock. A former fish house is now theisland co-op, filled with work producedby the islands craftspeople: a surpris-ing variety and quality of knittedgoods, jewelry, cards, Christmas deco-rations, and more.

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T H E F O X I S L A N D S :V I N A L H A V E N A N D N O R T H H A V E N

The Fox Islands Thorofare is a rowable stretch of yacht-filled water that separatesVinalhaven and North Haven, two islands roughly a dozen miles off Rockland thatdiffer deeply, even geologically. Its said that they were once oceans apart. While

you can get from one island to the other, no ferry stops at both.Vinalhaven is heavily wooded and marked by granite quarries that include two

public swimming holes. Life eddies around the village of Carvers Harbor, home toMaines largest lobster fleet. In 1880, when granite was being cut on Vinalhaven tobuild New Yorks Customs House, 2,855 people were living here on the island, a

number now reduced to less than 1,300a mix of descendants of 18th-centurysettlers and the stonecutters who came here from Sweden, Norway, Finland, andScotland. In recent years the island has also attracted a number of artists, includingRobert Indiana. Summer visitors now equal year-round residents, but there is no

yacht club or golf course. This is Maines largest offshore island and its largestyear-round island community. Its not a resort island, and yachtsmen will be hard-put to find a guest mooring among the lobster boats in Carvers Harbor.

North Haven is half as big, with just 350 year-round residents, some 1,500 insummer. Founded well over a century ago by Boston yachtsmen, its summercolony now includes some of the countrys wealthiest and most influential families.Over the years some members of these families have married islanders, while oth-ers have settled or retired here. The result is a creative mix. Its K12 school, thesmallest in New England, has produced a play (Islands) that has been performedon Broadway. The former general store by the ferry dock is now Watermans Com-munity Center, with a 140-seat state-of-the-art theater, the venue for summer lec-tures, concerts, and plays.


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The village of North Haven offers several gift shops and galleries, two seasonalrestaurants, and recently restored Nebo Lodge, with gracious year-round lodgingand dining (seeLodging and Dining Out). Beyond the village a 10-mile loop beck-ons bicyclists through rolling, open fields, spotted with buttercups and idyllic farm-houses, most of them summer homes. Unusually sheltered Pulpit Harbor is afavorite mooring for windjammers and yachtsmen. Theres also a public golf cluband a private yacht club, the North Haven Casino, home to the islands distinctivedinghies.

It was British explorer Martin Pring who named the Fox Islands in 1603, osten-

sibly for the silver foxes he saw there. A dozen miles out in Penobscot Bay, theseislands are understandably protective of their considerable beauty, especially inview of their unusualby Maine island standardsaccessibility by Maine StateFerry. Be it said that there is a terrific, seasonal inn on North Haven, and a limitedbut real choice of lodging on Vinalhaven. The current news here is the installationof three 1.5-megawatt wind turbines on the north side of Vinalhaven, capable ofgenerating all the electricity needed for both islands. Reviews are mixed. Islanders

who live within earshot are understandably upset and some have sued, reducingthe promised savings from wind power.

For anyone who loves islands, especially less crowded islands with ample placesto walk, Vinalhaven is a find. And contrary to rumor, its possible to cross the Tho-rofare (see Getting Around) to spend the day on North Haven, though you mayhave to wait a little while for transport. Islands dictate their own terms.

Vinalhaven makes sense as a day-trip destination only if its a nice day and if youtake the early boat. Pick up a map and dont be discouraged by the walk intoCarvers Harbor, along the islands least attractive half mile. Dont miss the Histori-cal Society Museum, and walk or bike out to Lanes Island. Its better as a destina-tion for a couple of days or more, and its a great place to be on the Fourth of July.

G U I D A N C E Town offices on North Haven (207-867-4433) and Vinalhaven (207-863-4471) field most questions. The Vinalhaven Chamber site is vinalhaven.org.On-island, pick up a free copy ofThe Wind, the islands newsletter.

G E T T I N G T H E R E The Maine State Ferry Service (in Rockland: 207-596-2202). The islands are serviced by different ferries, and neither ferry stops at both.

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NORTH HAVEN VILLAGE

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From Rockland its a 75-minute ride, and service is frequent. Day-trippers never

have a problem walking on; the bike fee is nominal. Each ferry takes a set numberof cars, and only a handful of these spaces can be reserved; otherwise, cars aretaken in order of their position in line. For the morning boats, its wise to be in linethe night before. During the summer season, getting off the island can be nerveracking. It doesnt make sense to bring a car unless you plan to stay awhile.

Note: Concord Coach Lines (concordcoachlines.com) stops daily at the RocklandFerry Terminal.

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Fe

rry

HurricaneIsland

GreenIsland

LeadbetterIsland Penobscot

Island

NarrowsIsland

CalderwoodNeck

Zeke

Point

CrockettPoint

CoombsNeck

WhiteIslands

VinalhavenIsland

Carvers

Harbo

r

SealCo

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Lon

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ove

Crock

ettC

ove

Winte

rHarbor

AT LANTIC OCEAN

TheBasin

HurricaneSound

SealBay

RobertsHarbor

AreyCover

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CarverCove

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N.H

AVENR

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Vinalhaven

Brown'sHeadLight

Perry Creek

Preserve

WhitemorePreserve

Eleanor L.CampbellPreserve

The BasinPreserve

Trail

Fish Hook Preserve/Carrying Place

Bridge Preserve

HuberPreserve

ScudderPreserve

Isle-au-HautMountainTown Park

StrawsonPreserve

BoothQuarry

GearysBeach

LawsonsQuarry

Lanes IslandNature

ConservancyPres.

The Countryman Press

Vinalhaven

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Penobscot Island Air(207-596-7500; penobscotislandair.net) will fly you in fromPortland or Boston as well as Rockland to either Vinalhaven or North Haven.

G E T T I N G A R O U N D By boat: Shuttle service between North Haven and Vinal-haven is possible throughJ. O. Brown & Sons Boatyard (207-867-4621) inNorth Haven. Try calling from the phone on the boat landing on the Vinalhaven

side of the Thorofare. On Vinalhaven the Tidewater Motel rents cars. Also seeBicycling.

Note: Day-trippers to North Haven will find shopping and food within steps of theferry dock, but on Vinalhaven its 0.4 mile from the ferry to Carvers Harbor. Itsanother mile or so to the quarries and Lanes Island Nature Preserve. A bike comesin handy.

W H E N T O C O M E Only in July and August can you count on all visitor-gearedfacilities being open on both these islands. June and September, however, can be

as beautiful.

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ON VINALHAVEN

The Vinalhaven Historical

Society Museum (207-863-

4410; vinalhavenhistorical

society.org), top of High St.

Open Tue.Sat. noon5, mid-

Junemid-Sept.; daily in

July, Aug. Within walking

distance of the ferry, worth

the uphill climb. One of

Maines most welcoming

and extensive community

museums, housed in the for-mer church, which has also

served as a theater and

skating rink. It was built in

1838 in Rockland as a Uni-

versalist church, and floated

over on a barge in 1878. Dis-

plays feature the islands

granite industry, with photos of St. John the Divines massive columns, for

instance, quarried here.

The first order for Vinalhaven granite, you learn, was shipped to Boston in

1826 to build a jail, but production really skyrocketed after the Civil War, when

THE FORMER STAR OF HOPE LODGE IN CARVERS

HARBOR, VINALHAVEN, IS HOME AND STUDIO FOR

ARTIST ROBERT INDIANA

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3 To See

On North HavenNorth Haven Village. The village itself is charming, with several shops, galleries,and a choice of places to eat. Pulpit Harbor, the islands second, much smallercommunity, several miles away, is the site of the general store and the North

Haven Historical Societys North Island Museum (open Sun. in July and Aug.,24:30). A general store, period kitchen and living room, special exhibits.

3 To DoB I C Y C L I N G If you take care to keep to the roadside, both North Haven and

Vinalhaven are suited to bicycling. Bike rentals are available at Bikesenjava (seeBicycling in Rockland) near the ferry terminal. A more limited selection is avail-able at Tidewater Motel on Vinalhaven and Nebo Lodge on North Haven.

On North Haven we recommend the North Shore Rd. On Vinalhaven we recom-mend the Granite Island Rd. out along the Basin or following Main St. the other

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granite was the preferred building material for the countrys building boom.

On an island map, 40 red pins mark the sites of major quarries, but there are

also countless motions, or backyard pits.

Museum displays also depict island life and other industries, like fish-

ing (the Lane-Libby Fisheries Co. was once one of Maines largest fish-processing companies) and lobstering (in the 1880s the Basin, a large salt-

water inlet, was used as a giant holding tank, penning as many as 150,000

lobsters until prices peaked). Knitting horse nets (to keep off flies) in intri-

cate designs was yet another island industry.

Check out the nearby Carver Cemetery. A Galamander, a huge wagon

such as those used to carry stone from island quarries to schooners, stands

in the small park at the top of the hill on the other side of town (junction of

Main, Chestnut, Carver, and School Sts. and Atlantic Ave.).The Victorian-style town of Carvers Harbor is picturesque and interest-

ing, its downtown a single street straddling a causeway and narrow land

strip between the harbor and Carvers Pond, its estuary. A boomtown dating

from the 1880s when Vinalhaven was synonymous with granite, the village is

built almost entirely of wood, the reason why many of the best of its golden-

era buildings are missing. The strikingly Victorian Star of Hope Lodge,

owned by artist Robert Indiana, is one of two surviving Second Empire

mansard buildings (there were once four) marking the center of town.

Browns Head Lighthouse, now automated, commands the entrance to

the Thorofare from the northern end of Vinalhaven, more than 8 miles from

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330 direction out to Gearys Beach (seeGreen Space). The North Haven Rd. isan 8-mile slog up the middle of Vinal-haven, but the rewards are great:Browns Head Light, the Perry CreekPreserve, and views of North Haven.

G O L F North Haven Golf Club (207-867-2054), open JuneSept. A water-side course, nine holes.

S E A K A Y A K I N G Tidewater Motelin Carvers Harbor, Vinalhaven, rentskayaks.

S W I M M I N G On Vinalhaven, Lawsons Quarry. From the middle of CarversHarbor, turn (uphill) at the Bank Building and continue up and up High St., pastthe historical society, and then turn right on the North Haven Rd. for 0.5 mile. ForBooth Quarrycontinue east (uphill) on Main St. 1.5 miles past the UnionChurch. This is a town park and swimming hole.

3 Green Space

On Vinalhaven

Lanes Island Preserve, on the southern side of Carvers Harbor (cross theIndian Creek Bridge and look for the sign on your left). Little more than a 15-minute walk from town, this is 40 acres of fields, marsh, moor, and beach. Its agreat spot to picnic or to come in the evening. Stroll out along the beach and upinto the meadows facing open ocean and filled with wild roses and beach peas.

Armbrust Hill is on the way to Lanes Island, hidden behind the medical center.The first place from which the islands granite was commercially quarried, itremained one of the most active sites on the island for many decades. Notice themany small pits (motions) as well as four major quarries. The main path winds

up the hill for a splendid view.Grimes Park, just west of the ferry terminal, is a 2-acre point of rocky land withtwo small beaches. Note the rough granite watering trough once used by horses

and oxen.

Gearys Beach. Turn right off MainSt. a bit farther than the Booth Quarry,

just after the Coke Statue of Liberty(youll see), and bear left for this stonytown-owned beach, its trails, and picnic

table. The view is off to Isle au Haut,Brimstone, and Matinicus.

The Vinalhaven Land Trust (207-863-2543; vinalislandtrust.org) main-tains several of the preserves mappedon island handouts. This list is just asampling.

VIEW FROM TIDEWATER MOTEL, CARVERS

HARBORChristina Tree

BOOTH QUARRY, VINALHAVEN

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3313 Lodging

On Vinalhaven 04863% p c Tidewater Motel andGathering Place (207-863-4618;tidewatermotel.com), P.O. Box 546,

15 Main St., Carvers Harbor. Openexcept Jan.Feb. I dont want to leavethis room, we wrote about Room 16,an aerie with a skylight (with shade)above the bed, a window above theraceway, and a deck overlooking a har-bor full of lobster boats, all turned intothe wind like gulls. Creature comfortsinclude a microwave, coffeemaker,

small fridge, full bath, and small TV.Phil and Elaine Crossmans watersidemotel (inherited from Phils parents)has evolved into a remarkable place tostay in the heart of both the harborand the village. It spans a tidal streamconnecting the harbor with CarversPond. The water swooshing under yourroom once powered a blacksmith shop.The 19 units are divided between theoriginal motel rooms (many with deckson the water) and adjacent buildingsalso over the waterwith varied suitesand efficiencies. One has a full kitchenand living/dining room, the GatheringPlace, fit for reunions or a small con-ference. The Crossmans also loanguests bikes and kayaks, meet theferry, and help them around the island.All the towns eating options are withinsteps. Elaine Crossman is a notedartist, and Phil is the island chronicler.His genuinely funny book of essays,

Away Happens, captures island life.$165195 for rooms, $295 for the Har-bormasters Berth, from $100 off-season. $8 for each additional personover twobut kids 10 and under arefree, and families with more than oneolder kid are only charged for one.Rates include morning coffee, juice,and muffins. Inquire about MillstreamCottage.

Libby House (207-863-4696; libbyhouse1869.com), Water St. Open AprilNov. This proud home was built in1869 by T. E. Libby, namesake of anisland ferry (he was responsible forbrining the Maine State Ferry service

to Vinlahaven). Its on the edge of thevillage, on the way to Lanes Island Pre-serve. Guests share the long sunporch

with its rocking chairs and uprightpiano, as well as an old-fashioned livingroom with a fireplace and access to thedining room and kitchen fridge (nomeals are served). There are four guestrooms, one downstairs and three on

the second floor, all furnished in gen-uinely interesting but comfortableantiques, all with private bath. Theresalso a downstairs two-bedroom apart-ment with a full kitchen and deck.Longtime host Philip Roberts asksguests to remove their shoes on enter-ing. $100120 for rooms, $150 for theapartment. Pets accepted Sept.June.

On North Haven 04853% p c Nebo Lodge (207-867-2007;nebolodge.com), 11 Mullins Lane, P.O.

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332 Box 358. Open MayDec.; winterrooms by chance (no breakfast). Builthandsomely in 1912 as an inn but pri-

vatized in 1956, reopened in 2006 by adedicated local group of women toserve both as a place for residents to

dine together and as an island entrefor visitors. There are eight crisp guestrooms, four with shared bath, many

with tufted wool rugs, throw pillows,and linens by nationally knowndesigner and island native AngelaAdams. Two third-floor rooms are thebrightest and most attractive, both

with private bath. The sitting room is

delightful, with a rosy Angela Adamsrug. Theres a strong commitment hereto all things green and local. The din-ing room with its working fireplace is

justly busy (see Dining Out). Your cellphone may not work, but there is wire-less Internet. Bikes are available, andthe innkeeper can arrange a boat trip.$125250 includes a delicious break-

fast, as organic as possible. Pets areaccepted on a case-by-case basis; $25cleaning fee.

C O T T A G E R E N T A L S DavidsonRealty(207-863-2200; maineislandliving.com) specialize in summerrentals. The Island Group (207-863-2554) offers both sales and rentals for

both islands.

3Where to Eat

On VinalhavenThe Haven Restaurant (207-863-4969), 49 Main St. Open Tue.Sat.JuneDec. unless Tory Pratt is cater-ing, with a 6 and 8:15 seating harbor-side; reservations required. On thestreet side (Wed.Sat.-9) you can eatfrom a lighter menu, pub-style, and donot need a reservation. This islandmainstay serves a variety of entresthat change almost nightly. You mightbegin with crabcakes with a sherry

cayenne mayonnaise, then dine onbaked fresh scallops with crmefrache, Gruyre, Parmesan, and breadcrumbs, or roast pork tenderloin.Theres always at least one steak and apasta dish. Entres $15.7522.50.

c The Harbor Gawker(207-863-9365), Main St., middle of the village.Open mid-Apr.mid-Nov., Mon.Sat.118. Lobster rolls, crabmeat rolls, andbaskets of just about anything. Ownedby the Morton family since 1975, thisis a great, casual spot with views of themillrace and Carvers Pond. Order atthe counter: from-scratch soups and

chowders, seafood baskets, and blue-berry pies, along with ice cream and adairy bar for dessert. Its a big menu

with everything from hot dogs throughsalads and wraps to quesadillas, flatbread, and lobster dinners.

Surfside (207-863-2767), HarborWharf, W. Main St. Donna Websteropens at 4 AM for the lobstermen andtechnically closes at 11 AM on week-ends; lunch until 1:30 weekdays. Agreat harborside breakfast spot withtables on the deck, and specials like acrabmeat or lobster omelet, or atomato herb cheese omelet with fishcakes.

ARCafe (207-863-4191; vharc.org),

50B Main St. Open 711 for breakfast,115 for soups and sandwiches. Sun-day brunch in summer. Check the

website for off-season hours. Coffees,smooothies, teas, and island produceall day. This student-run CommunitryLearning Center & Local Foods Mar-ket is an attractive, welcoming space

with free WiFi and good food.

Trickerville Sandwich Shop (207-863-9344), Water St., Mon.Sat. 5AM4 PM, Sun. 114. Closed Sun. off-season. Off Main St. on the way toArmbrust Hill, this eatery is tuckeddown by the harbor, the place lobster-


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men stop for breakfast, good sand-wiches, lobster and crab rolls.

c The Pizza Pit (207-863-4311), 36West Main St., is open daily 49 PM,serving more than pizza. Kids love it.

On North HavenCoal Wharf Restaurant (207-867-4739), hidden away in the J. O. Brown& Sons Boatyard, overlooking the FoxIslands Thorofare. Open for dinner(except Mon.) in July and Aug.; checkin June. Specializing in local seafoodand on-island organic produce. Dinnerentres $1525. Reservations advised.

Nebo Lodge (207-867-2007; nebolodge.com), 11 Mullins Lane, NorthHaven Village. Open July and Aug.,Tue.Sat.; also Fri. and Sat. in May,June, and Sept.Dec. Reserve. This isa very special inn (seeLodging) rightin the village with a menu that changesnightly. Chef Amanda Hallowell iscommitted to using as much locally

grown produce as possible. A firsttaste might be butter-poached lobster

with baby lettuce, fried lemon, andfresh tarragon, or fried green tomatoes

with slab bacon and homemade aioli.On a June evening we dined on home-made torn pasta, fresh crabmeat,local pea shoots, and lemon crmefrache, topped off with rhubarb pie

and cardamom-ginger ice cream. Itsan la carte menu with most entresunder $30 and a full bar. Free trans-port across the Thorofare is offered topatrons coming from Vinalhaven.

Coopers Landing (207-867-2060)Open JulyAug. for lunch and dinner,check in June and Sept. MickeyCampbell now runs this handy little

restaurant, which offers offers seatinginside and out at the summer heart ofthe village. Burgers, fried foods, lob-ster and crab rolls, fish cakes, chowderand salads, full bar.

Watermans Community Center(watermans.org), North Haven Village.Open daily year-round 74 for coffee,tea, muffins, sodas, and bagels in anairy, nonprofit community center withcouches, tables, board games, and

newspapers.

3 EntertainmentWatermans Community Center(207-867-2100; watermans.org), NorthHaven Village. This exceptional centerright at the ferry dock includes a the-ater, the venue for frequent produc-

tions, concerts, and presentations.Check the calendar for contra dance,workshops, and childrens activities.

Smith Hokanson Memorial Hall atVinalhaven High School is the stage forlectures, theater, and a variety of com-munity activities.

3 Selective Shopping

In Carvers Harbor onVinalhavenc The Paper Store (207-863-4826) isthe nerve center of the island, theplace everyone drops by at least once aday. Carlene Michael is as generousabout dispensing directions to visitorsas she is news to residents. This is also

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the place to check for current happen-ings like plays and concerts, and to geta chart of the island.

New Era Gallery(207-863-9351;neweragallery.com), Main St. OpenMemorial DayDec. Painter and print-maker Elaine Austin Crossmansgallery shows work by some of Mainesmost prominent painters, sculptors,photographers, and fiber artists. Checkout the sculpture garden and specialexhibits in the barn.

c Go Fish (207-863-4193), Main St.Open year-round, Tue.Sat. 104:30. A

cheerful kids-geared shop with books,games, and candy.

Second Hand Prose, Main St. OpenMon.Sat. 94:30. Run by Friends ofthe Library and featuring secondhandbooks. Good selection of Maine andmaritime titles.

Island Spirits (207-863-2192), 32Main St. Open Mon.Sat. 116:30.

Some of the best cheeses you canever hope for, great wines, beer,olives, freshly ground coffee, andbreads; first Friday wine tastings.

In North Haven VillageNorth Haven Gift Shop andGallery(207-867-4444). Open Memo-

rial Daymid-Sept. (but closed Sun.),9:305. Since 1954 June Hopkins(mother of Eric) has run this shop withrooms that meander on and on, filled

with pottery, books, accessories, jew-elry, and much more, including bags by

the islands famous young designer,Angela Adams. Gallery exhibits changefrequently. Hopkins keeps runningaccounts for summer families andknows the names of members of asmany as six generations of a family

when they walk in.

Calderwood Hall and North IslandFiber Shoppe (207-867-2265). Open

seasonally. Housed in a weatheredbuilding that has served as movie the-ater and dance hall, featuring paintingsby owner Herbert Parsons; also offer-ing an interesting mix of clothing andgifts, many island-made, and MickeyBullocks lustrous yarns, hand spunfrom her sheep. Wine, beer, and waterare also sold.

Hopkins Wharf Gallery(207-867-2229). Open seasonally. This is a con-temporary gallery operated by DavidHopkins, brother of the artist Eric.

3 Special EventsYear-round: North Haven ArtsEnrichment Presentations include

exceptional plays, concerts, and lec-tures performed in Watermans Com-munity Center in North Haven Villageat the ferry landing. For details, phone207-867-2100; watermans.org.

Summer season: Concerts, primarilyclassical, chamber, and jazz, are stagedon both islands, sponsored by FoxIslands Concerts.

July 4: Parade in Vinalhaven.

JulyAugust: Saturday FarmersMarket at the ball field, North Haven

Village, features crafts as well as pro-duce. Saturday Flea Market, 10 AMin the field next to the Galamander,

COSTUMED EAGLE ATOP GRANITE EAGLE

DURING ARTS CELEBRATION, CARVERS

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Carvers Harbor, Vinalhaven. UnionChurch Baked Bean Supper(everyother Thursday), Vinalhaven. Checkvinalhavenlandtrust.org for theschedule of frequent morning walksand evening talks.

For details about other regular occur-rences on both islands, consult TheWind, a weekly newsletter publishedon Vinalhaven.

M A T I N I C U S

Home to fewer than 40 hardy souls in winter, most of whom make their living lob-stering, Matinicuss population grows to about 200 in summer. Maines outermostisland, it lies 22 miles at sea beyond the outer edge of Penobscot Bay. Quiet andunspoiled, its a haven for birds and birders with some 650 species identified.

Walking trails thread the meadows and shore, and there are two sand beachesone at each end of the 750-acre island. Matinicus Rock is offshore, a protected

nesting site for puffins, a lure for birders in June and July. Matinicus and neighbor-ing Ragged Island (better known as Criehaven, the name of its seasonal village) arethe setting for Elizabeth Ogilvies trilogy, High Tide at Noon, Storm Tide, and EbbTide.

G U I D A N C E For an informative mailing or answers to general questions contactHarriet Williams (207-354-8354), 45 Thatcher St., Thomaston 04861. Williams is aformer islander who is helpful with cottage rental options.

G E T T I N G T H E R E The flying time via Penobscot Island Air(207-596-7500)from Owls Head is 15 minutes, but flights may be canceled because of weatherand the fog can hang in there for days. Thats when you contact George Tarkle-son (207-691-9030; matinicusexcursions.com), June 22Oct. 20; its a 70-minuteride. Inquire about puffin-, whale-, and seal-watching trips. The Maine StateFerry(207-596-2022) takes 2 hours to ply between Matinicus and Rockland,four times a month MayOct., and once a month the rest of the year. Other watertaxis include Equinox Island Transit (207-236-6890; cell, 691-6891) and Penob-scot Ferry Transport (207-691-6030; cell, 594-5163). For a longer list of water of

water taxis, see Guidance.

3 Lodgingp c Tuckanuck Lodge (207-366-3830; tuckanuck.com), Shag HollowRd., P.O. Box 217, Matinicus 04851.Open year-round. Well-behaved chil-dren and pets welcome. Nantucket

native Bill Hoadley offers five rooms(two shared baths), some with a viewof Old Cove and the ocean; $100 dou-ble, $70 off-season including breakfastand tax; half rate for children 12 andunder; weekly rates available. Guests

have kitchen privileges for lunch (bringyour own fixings); the lodge offers sup-per ($1821 including salad anddessert; BYOB). Baked goods are avail-able on-island.

The Fishermans Wife, operated byDonna Rogers (207-366-3011), sellsbooks, paintings, crafts, and handmadeitems.

sample: explorer's guide maine, 16th ed

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