scotland 10 - preview - lonely planet · around st mary’s loch. continue to dum-fries, where...

Neil Wilson, Andy Symington, Sophie McGrath

Scotland

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Northern Highlands& Islands

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Inverness & the Central Highlands

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Highlands &Islands

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Orkney &Shetland

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CentralScotland

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SouthernScotland

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NortheastScotland

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Glasgowp106

Edinburghp48

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to Scotland . . . . .6

Scotland Map . . . . . . . . . . .8

Scotland’s Top 16 . . . . . . .10

Need to Know . . . . . . . . . .18

First Time Scotland . . . . 20

What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . 22

If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Month by Month . . . . . . . .27

Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

Outdoor Activities . . . . . 33

Regions at a Glance . . . . 44

EDINBURGH . . . . . . . 48History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73Festivals & Events . . . . . . . 74Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 90Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 93Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97Getting There & Away . . . . 98Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . 99Around Edinburgh . . . . 100

Queensferry . . . . . . . . . . . 101Inchcolm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104North Berwick & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104Linlithgow . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105

GLASGOW . . . . . . . . 106History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119Festivals & Events . . . . . . 120Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . 127

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Contents

Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 131Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134Information . . . . . . . . . . . . 136Getting There & Away . . . 136Getting Around . . . . . . . . . 137Around Glasgow . . . . . . 138Paisley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138Greenock & Gourock . . . . 138Blantyre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139

SOUTHERN SCOTLAND . . . . . . . 140Borders Region . . . . . . . .141Peebles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141Melrose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144Around Melrose . . . . . . . . 146Selkirk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147Hawick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148Jedburgh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149Kelso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151Around Kelso . . . . . . . . . . 152Eyemouth . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152Coldingham & St Abbs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153South Lanarkshire . . . . 156Lanark & New Lanark . . . . . . . . . . . . 156Biggar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157Ayrshire . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157Largs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157Troon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159Ayr . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159Alloway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161Culzean Castle . . . . . . . . . 162Crossraguel Abbey . . . . . . 162Turnberry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162Ailsa Craig . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163Dumfries & Galloway . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163Dumfries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163Ruthwell Cross . . . . . . . . . 166

Caerlaverock . . . . . . . . . . . 167New Abbey . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167Annandale & Eskdale . . . . 167Castle Douglas & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168Kirkcudbright . . . . . . . . . . 170Galloway Forest Park . . . . .171The Machars . . . . . . . . . . . 173Stranraer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174The Rhinns of Galloway . . . . . . . . . . . . 175Portpatrick . . . . . . . . . . . . 176

CENTRAL SCOTLAND . . . . . . . .177Stirling Region . . . . . . . 178Stirling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178Dunblane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185Doune . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186Fife . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187Culross . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187Dunfermline . . . . . . . . . . . 188Aberdour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189Falkland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189St Andrews . . . . . . . . . . . . 190East Neuk . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196Lowland Perthshire & Kinross . . . . . . . . . . . . 200Perth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .200Kinross & Loch Leven . . . . . . . . . . . .206Upper Strathearn . . . . . . . 207Crieff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207Blairgowrie & Around . . .209

NORTHEAST SCOTLAND . . . . . . . 210Dundee & Angus . . . . . . 212Dundee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212Broughty Ferry . . . . . . . . . 218Glamis Castle . . . . . . . . . . 219

Arbroath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219Kirriemuir . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221Edzell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224Aberdeenshire . . . . . . . . 225Aberdeen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225Around Aberdeen . . . . . . . 232Stonehaven . . . . . . . . . . . . 234Strathdon . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235Moray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236Elgin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236Dufftown & Aberlour . . . . 237Banff & Macduff . . . . . . . . 239Portsoy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .240

SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS & ISLANDS . . . . . . . 241Loch Lomond & The Trossachs . . . . . . . . 243Loch Lomond . . . . . . . . . . 243Crianlarich & Tyndrum . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247Arrochar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248The Trossachs . . . . . . . . . . 248South Argyll . . . . . . . . . 254Cowal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254Bute . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255Inveraray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256Crinan Canal . . . . . . . . . . . 257Kilmartin Glen . . . . . . . . . . 258Kintyre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258Islay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262Jura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267Colonsay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269Arran . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270Brodick & Around . . . . . . . 271Corrie to Lochranza . . . . . 272Lochranza . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272West Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . 273South Coast . . . . . . . . . . . 273Lamlash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273

Oban, Mull, Iona & Tiree . . . . . . . . . . 275Oban . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275Around Oban . . . . . . . . . . . 279Mull . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281Iona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287Tiree . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 289Coll . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .290North Argyll . . . . . . . . . . 291Loch Awe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 291Connel & Taynuilt . . . . . . . 292

INVERNESS & THE CENTRAL HIGHLANDS . . . . . . 293Inverness & the Great Glen . . . . . . . 296Inverness . . . . . . . . . . . . . .296Around Inverness . . . . . . . 301West of Inverness . . . . . . .302Black Isle . . . . . . . . . . . . . .303Loch Ness . . . . . . . . . . . . .304The Cairngorms . . . . . . 309Aviemore . . . . . . . . . . . . . .309Around Aviemore . . . . . . . 312Grantown-on-Spey . . . . . . 314Kingussie & Newtonmore . . . . . . . . . . . 314Tomintoul & Around . . . . . 315Cockbridge to Tomintoul Road . . . . . . . . 316Royal Deeside . . . . . . . . . . 316The Angus Glens . . . . . . . 319Highland Perthshire . . . . . . . . . . . 320Dunkeld & Birnam . . . . . .320Pitlochry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322Blair Atholl . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324Lochs Tummel & Rannoch . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325Aberfeldy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 326Kenmore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 327

Loch Tay & Ben Lawers . . . . . . . . . . . . 327Fortingall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328Glen Lyon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328West Highlands . . . . . . . 328Glen Coe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 329Kinlochleven . . . . . . . . . . . 332Fort William . . . . . . . . . . . . 333Around Fort William . . . . . 336Ardnamurchan . . . . . . . . . 338Road to the Isles . . . . . . . 339Knoydart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 342Small Isles . . . . . . . . . . . 343Rum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .344Eigg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 345Canna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .346Muck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .346

NORTHERN HIGHLANDS & ISLANDS . . . . . . . 347East Coast . . . . . . . . . . . 350Strathpeffer . . . . . . . . . . . .350Tain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 351Bonar Bridge & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 351Lairg & Around . . . . . . . . . 352Dornoch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 352

Golspie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 353Helmsdale . . . . . . . . . . . . . 354Caithness . . . . . . . . . . . . 354Helmsdale to Lybster . . . 355Wick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 355John O’Groats . . . . . . . . . . 356Mey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 356Thurso & Scrabster . . . . . 357North & West Coast . . . . . . . . . . 358Thurso to Durness . . . . . . 358Durness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .360Durness to Ullapool . . . . . 361Ullapool . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 365Ullapool to Kyle of Lochalsh . . . . . . . . . . . .366Kyle of Lochalsh . . . . . . . . 373Kyle to the Great Glen . . . . . . . . . . . . . 373Skye . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 374Kyleakin (Caol Acain) . . . . . . . . . . . 377Broadford (An T-Ath Leathann) . . . . 377Armadale & Sleat . . . . . . . 378Isleornsay . . . . . . . . . . . . . 378Elgol (Ealaghol) . . . . . . . . 378Cuillin Hills . . . . . . . . . . . . 379Minginish . . . . . . . . . . . . . .380

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Portree (Port Righ) . . . . .380Dunvegan (Dun Bheagain) . . . . . . . . 382Duirinish & Waternish . . . . . . . . . . . . . 382Trotternish . . . . . . . . . . . . . 383Raasay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .384Outer Hebrides . . . . . . . 385Lewis (Leodhais) . . . . . . .386Harris (Na Hearadh) . . . . 389Berneray (Bearnaraigh) . . . . . . . . . . 392North Uist (Uibhist A Tuath) . . . . . . . 393Benbecula (Beinn Na Faoghla) . . . . . 393South Uist (Uibhist A Deas) . . . . . . . .394

Barra (Barraigh) . . . . . . . . 395

ORKNEY & SHETLAND . . . . . . . 397Orkney . . . . . . . . . . . . . .400Kirkwall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 401East Mainland to South Ronaldsay . . . . . . .405West & North Mainland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 407Stromness . . . . . . . . . . . . .409Hoy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 411Northern Islands . . . . . . . 413Shetland . . . . . . . . . . . . 416Lerwick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 418Bressay & Noss . . . . . . . . 422Scalloway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 422South Mainland . . . . . . . . 423North Mainland . . . . . . . . . 425The North Isles . . . . . . . . .426

Scotland Today . . . . . . . 430

History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 432

The Scottish Larder . . . 440

Scottish Culture . . . . . . 446

Natural Scotland . . . . . 452

Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 456

Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 464

Glossary . . . . . . . . . . . . . 469

Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 472

Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 479

UNDERSTAND

SURVIVAL GUIDE

SPECIAL FEATURES

Outdoor Activities . . . . . 33Royal Mile 3D Illustration . . . . . . . . 56Rosslyn Chapel 3D Illustration . . . . . . . 102

Stirling Castle 3D Illustration . . . . . . . 182Scottish Castles . . . . . . 205Scotland’s Islands . . . . 223Lochs & Mountains . . . 331

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A Highland Fling

This tour takes in Scotland’s scenic and historical highlights.

No trip to Scotland would be complete without a visit to Edinburgh, and even if your Scottish trip lasts only a week, the capital is worth two days of your time. On day three, head northwest to Stirling to see Scotland’s other great castle, then on to the Trossachs for your first taste of Highland scenery (overnight in Callander).

Day four starts with a scenic drive north via Glen Coe and Fort William, then along the Great Glen to Loch Ness in time for an afternoon visiting Urquhart Castle and the Loch Ness Centre & Exhibition. An evening cruise on Loch Ness rounds off the day; spend the night in Inverness.

On day five visit Culloden Battlefield, then drive west via Achnasheen and Plock-ton to Kyle of Lochalsh and cross the bridge to the Isle of Skye. Devote day six to Dunvegan Castle and the Trotternish peninsula.

Spend your last day taking the long drive back south – the scenic route goes via Glen Shiel, Invergarry, Spean Bridge (pause at the Commando Monument), Laggan and then south on the A9 to Edinburgh, with a stop in Pitlochry.

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Castles, whisky, mountain scenery and the legendary Isle of Skye – this route covers the best that Scotland has to offer.

From Edinburgh head north to Fife and turn east along the coastal road through the fishing villages of the East Neuk (pause for a seafood lunch at Anstruther or St Monans) to the home of golf, St Andrews. Stay a night or two – heck, play a round of golf – before continuing north to Dundee and Glamis Castle, with its royal associations. A scenic drive north through the mountains leads to Braemar, a good place to spend the night.

A feast of castles lies ahead as you make your way east along Royal Deeside – take your time and visit (at the very least) the royal residence of Balmoral Castle and the fairy-tale Crathes Castle on your way to the granite city of Aberdeen. Plan to overnight here.

Now strike west again along the A944, visiting Castle Fraser and Craigievar Castle before heading north to Dufftown and Aberlour in the heart of Speyside. Base yourself here for at least a day while you explore the local whisky distilleries – there are some good places to eat, plus the Quaich whisky bar at the nearby Craigellachie Hotel.

Head northwest to Elgin and its magnificent ruined cathedral, then west on the A96, visiting Fort George and Culloden on the way to Inverness (you’ll probably need a stopover in Nairn). Inverness itself is worth a night or two – there are some excellent hotels and restaurants, and the opportunity for a side trip to Loch Ness (Drumnadrochit for monster spotters; Dores Inn for foodies).

Now for a glorious drive from Inverness to Torridon via Kinlochewe through stunning mountain scenery; try to spend a night at the Torridon hotel. Then head south via Apple-cross and the pretty village of Plockton to Kyle of Lochalsh and the bridge to Skye.

Spend two days exploring Scotland’s most famous island before taking the ferry from Armadale to Mallaig, and follow the Road to the Isles in reverse, stopping to visit Glen-finnan, where Bonnie Prince Charlie raised his Highland army in 1745. Overnight at Fort William, and drive back to Edinburgh via the scenic road through Glen Coe and along the bonnie banks of Loch Lomond.

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Southern Scotland is often overlooked by visitors, but fans of Robert Burns and Sir Walter Scott will find much to enjoy here.

From Edinburgh your first objective should be a visit to Sir Walter Scott’s former home at Abbotsford, followed by the beau-tiful Border abbeys of Melrose and nearby Dryburgh; Melrose is a charming place to stay the night, with a choice of good hotels.

Next morning head west along the A708 to Moffat, passing through glorious scenery around St Mary’s Loch. Continue to Dum-fries, where you’ll visit the first of several sights related to Scotland’s national poet Robert Burns, and make a short side trip to see spectacular Caerlaverock Castle.

Take the A76 northwest towards Ayr, and spend the rest of day three in Alloway visiting the birthplace of Robert Burns (and other Burns-related sites); nearby Ayr has plenty of accommodation options.

North now to Wemyss Bay and the ferry to Rothesay on the Isle of Bute, where you can visit stunning Mount Stuart, one of Scotland’s most impressive stately homes. Spend the night on the island, then return to the mainland and head east to Glasgow.

5 DAYS Border Raid

This route is usually done by car, but it also makes a brilliant cycling tour (270 miles, including the 60 miles from Ulla-pool to Inverness train station, making both start and finish accessible by rail).

From Oban it’s a five-hour ferry cross-ing to Barra; plan to spend the night here and book ahead. On day two, after a visit to Kisimul Castle and a tour around the island, take the ferry to South Uist. Walk the wild beaches of the west coast, sample the local seafood and perhaps go fish-ing on the island’s trout lochs. Continue through Benbecula and North Uist, prime birdwatching country.

Overnight at Lochmaddy on North Uist (if you’re camping or hostelling, a night at Berneray is a must) before taking the ferry to Harris, whose west coast has spectacu-lar beaches. The road continues north from Tarbert, where you’ll find good hotels, through rugged hills to Lewis.Loop west via the Callanish Standing Stones and Arnol Blackhouse museum. Spend your final night in Stornoway (eat at Digby Chick), then take the ferry to Ullapool for a scenic drive to Inverness.

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OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints and useful advice: Adrienne Murray Nielsen, Andreas Schoenherr, Babette van Dongen, Carrie Evje, Dan-ielle Menzies, Ferdinand Sander, Hui Syn Chan, Ian Stafford, Ivan McMorris, Joseph Stevens, Marta Pelle, Molly Hoyt, Ruth Jenkins, Scott Thornton

WRITER THANKSNeil WilsonThanks to the friendly and helpful tourist office staff all over the Highlands; to Steven Fallon, Keith Jeffrey, Fiona Garven, Derek McCrindle, Brendan Bolland, Jenny Neil, Tom and Christine Duffin, Steve Hall, Elaine Simpson, Peter Fallon and Duncan Pepper; and, as ever, to Carol Downie. Thanks also to James Smart and the editorial team at Lonely Planet.

Andy SymingtonIt’s always a huge pleasure to enjoy the very gener-ous hospitality of Jenny Neil and Brendan Bolland, and to work with Neil Wilson, Cliff Wilkinson and the excellent LP team. Numerous other people have been very generous with time and information. I’d particu-larly like to thank Robin Mitchell, Maggie Maguire,

Graeme Campbell, Jen Stewart and the staff at many tourist information offices, especially Judith and Janice at Bowmore, Sheona at John O’Groats, Susan at Callander and Neil at Kirkwall.

Sophie McGrathThanks to Elaine Carmichael, Claire Dutton, Caroline Wight and Anna Young of the Lothians’ tourist boards for your helpful suggestions, and to Cliff Wilkinson for en-trusting me with my first content update and graciously answering all my questions. Thank you Sean McMahon and Diana Marosi for getting my trip off to the nicest possible start, and my wonderful brother for keeping me company at the end (altogether now: ‘Inspector…’). To my whole family, thank you for your love and support.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.Illustrations p56-7, p102-3 and p182-3 by Javier Zarracina.Cover photograph: Davidson in old colours tartan, cloth woven and kilt made by Geoffrey (Tailor) Kiltmakers; Matteo Carassale/4Corners ©

Behind the Scenes

THIS BOOKThis 10th edition of Lonely Planet’s Scotland guidebook was curated by Neil Wilson, and researched and written by Neil, Andy Symington and Sophie McGrath. The previous two editions were written by Neil Wilson and Andy Symington.

Destination Editors James Smart, Clifton WilkinsonSenior Product Editor Genna PattersonProduct Editor Will AllenSenior Cartographer Mark GriffithsBook Designer Clara MonittoAssisting Editors Sarah Bailey, Michelle Bennett, Katie

Connolly, Nigel Chin, Michelle Coxall, Victoria Harrison, Kellie Langdon, Kristin Odijk, Maja VatrićAssisting Cartographer Rachel ImesonCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Imogen Bannister, Andi Jones, Anne Mason


472

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

Aabbeys, see churches &

cathedralsAbbotsford 100, 146Aberdeen 225-32, 226-7

accommodation 229activities 225-9drinking 230-2eating 229-32entertainment 231events 229festivals 229nightlife 230-2sights 225-9travel to/from 231-2travel within 232

Aberdeenshire 225-36Aberdour 189Aberfeldy 326-7Aberfoyle 248-50Aberlemno Stones 221Aberlour 238accessible travel 456accommodation 20, 456-8,

see also individual locations

A’Challtain 22activities 24, 27-8, 33-43,

see also individual activities

Ailsa Craig 163air travel 243-5, 464, 465Alloway 161amusement parks 313An Tairbeart 390An T-Ath Leathann 377Angus 220Angus Glens 319-20animals 452-3, 454, 2 see

also individual speciesAnnandale 167-8Anstruther 197-8Applecross 370-1aquariums 240, 245-6, 283Arbroath 219-21

Arbroath smokie 219archaeological sites, see

also ruins, standing stones

Banks Chambered Tomb 406

Barnhouse Neolithic Village 408

Blackhammer 415Broch of Gurness 409Brough of Birsay 409Dunadd Fort 258Eagle Stone 350Grey Cairns of

Camster 355Jarlshof 424Knowe of Yarso 415Maeshowe 407-8Midhowe Cairn &

Broch 415Mine Howe 405Ness of Brodgar 407Old Scatness 424Quoyness Chambered

Tomb 415-16Ring of Brodgar 408Skara Brae 17, 408, 17Standing Stones of

Stenness 408Taversoe Tuick 415Tomb of the Eagles 406Unstan Chambered

Cairn 408architecture 450Ardbeg 16, 283, 16Ardnamurchan 338-9Ardrossan 157area codes 462-3Argyll, see North Argyll,

South ArgyllArisaig 340-1Armadale 378Arran 270-5, 270Arran Art Trail 22Arrochar 248art 449art galleries, see museums

& galleriesArthur’s Seat 63Assynt 362-4

ATMs 461Aviemore 309-12Ayr 159-61, 160Ayrshire 157-63

Bbagpipes 448Balamory 283Ballater 316-17Balloch 245Balquhidder 252Banff 239-40Banks, Iain 447bargaining 21Barra 395-6Barraigh 395-6Barrie, JM 221bathrooms 463beaches 23Bearnaraigh 392Beauly 302beavers 258beer 444-5Beinn Na Faoghla 393-4Ben Arthur 248Ben Lawers 253, 327-8Ben Lomond 248Ben Nevis 12, 331, 338, 13,

330-1Benbecula 393-4Berneray 392Bettyhill 359-60bicycle travel, see cyclingBiggar 157Bigton 424birds 453, 454birdwatching 43, 453, 16, 222

Boat of Garten 313Fair Isle 427Galloway Forest Park 172Harris 391Loch Ken 168, 169Mull 281North Isles 426Shetland 16, 418, 424,

428, 16St Abb’s Head National

Nature Reserve 154

Birnam 320-2Birsay 409Black Isle 303-4Blair Atholl 324-5Blairgowrie 209Blantyre 139Boat of Garten 313-14boat travel 465, 466Boddam 424Bonar Bridge 351-2Bonnie Prince Charlie 301,

334, 340, 382, 394, 437book sculptures 96books 96, 430, 446Borders Abbeys Way 150Borders Region, the 141-56Bowmore 264-5Brae 425Braemar 318-19Braemar Gathering 318Braveheart 333, 336Bressay 422breweries 444

Black Isle Brewery 303Cairngorm Brewery 310Colonsay Brewery 269Fyne Ales 257Glasgow 129Isle of Arran Brewery 271Isle of Skye Brewery 383-4Orkney Brewery 408-9Shilling Brewing Co 129St Andrews Brewing

Co 195Broadford 377Brodick 271-2Broughty Ferry 218-19Brown, George Mackay 447budget 19bureaux de change 462Burns, Robert 162, 165,

166, 446Burray 406business hours 462bus tours 74, 119, 268,

298, 376bus travel 165, 212, 465, 466Bute 255-6Butt of Lewis 387


473IN

DEX C

-D CCaerlaverock Castle 167,

205Cairngorm Mountain 312-13Cairngorms 309-20, 311Caithness 354-8Calanais 388Caledonian Canal 306, 334,

337, 331, 330-1Callander 250-2Callanish 388Callanish Standing Stones

388, 2, 31Calton Hill 69Camera Obscura

(Arbroath) 221Campbeltown 260-2Canna 346canoeing, see kayaking &

canoeingCaol Acain 377Cape Wrath 363car travel 18, 465, 466-7Carrbridge 313cashpoints 461Castle Douglas 168-70Castle Fraser 205castles & palaces 17, 23,

205, 17, 204-5, see also ruins

Aberdour Castle 189Amhuinnsuidhe

Castle 391Armadale Castle 378Balmoral Castle 317Blair Castle 324-5Blackness Castle 189Bothwell Castle 139Braemar Castle 318Brodick Castle 271Caerlaverock Castle

167, 205Castle Campbell 187Castle Fraser 236Castle Menzies 326Castle of Mey 356-7Castle Stalker 292Cawdor Castle 302Corgarff Castle 316Craigievar Castle 205,

236, 24Crathes Castle 232Culross Palace 188Culzean Castle &

Country Park 162Dirleton Castle 105Doune Castle 186-7, 204Duart Castle 283Dundonald Castle 159Dunfermline Abbey &

Palace 188Dunnottar Castle 234Dunollie Castle 275

Dunrobin Castle 353-4Dunstaffnage Castle

292, 204-5Dunvegan Castle 382Edinburgh Castle 51-5,

56, 87Edzell Castle 225Eilean Donan Castle

373, 14Falkland Palace 189-90Floors Castle 151Fyvie Castle 232Glamis Castle 219,

32, 204 Glengorm Castle 285Hermitage Castle

149, 205Iona Abbey 288, 223Inveraray Castle 256 Kellie Castle 198Kerrera 280Kilchurn Castle 291Kinloch Castle 344Kisimul Castle 395-6Lews Castle 386 Linlithgow Palace 105Lochleven Castle 206Lochranza Castle 272MacLellan’s Castle 170Noltland Castle 413Palace of Holyroodhouse

61-3, 57Rothesay Castle 255Scalloway Castle 423Scone Palace 200-1Skipness Castle 260St Andrews Castle 191Stirling Castle 17, 178-9,

182-3, 182-3, 17Tarbert Castle 259Threave Castle 168-9Urquhart Castle 305

cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals

ceilidhs 449cell phones 18, 462Celtic Connections 27cemeteries 62, 63, 113central Highlands 46, 293-

346, 294-5accommodation 293climate 293food 293highlights 294-5, 294-5travel seasons 293

central Scotland 45, 177-209, 178

accommodation 177climate 177food 177highlights 178, 178travel seasons 177

Charlotte Sq 66children, travel with 71, 122,

442, 458-9churches & cathedrals

Arbroath Abbey 219-20Auld Kirk (Ayr) 160Canongate Kirkyard 61Culross Abbey 188Dornoch Cathedral 352Dunblane Cathedral 185Dunfermline Abbey &

Palace 188Dunkeld Cathedral 320-1Elgin Cathedral 237Fortrose Cathedral 303Gigha 260Glasgow Cathedral 112-

13, 132-3Holyrood Abbey 62Inchcolm Abbey 104Italian Chapel 406Mackintosh Queen’s

Cross 119Mansfield Place Church

68-9Paisley Abbey 138Rosslyn Chapel 101Round Church 264St Andrew’s

Cathedral 296St Clement’s Church 391St Giles Cathedral 55-8St John’s Kirk 201-2St Machar’s

Cathedral 228-9St Magnus Cathedral 401

cinema 131, 231, 450City Chambers

(Glasgow) 107Clearances 354climate 18, 27-8, see

also individual regionsCobbler 248Cockbridge 316Coigach 364Coldingham 153-6Coldingham Bay 154Coll 290-1, 282Colonsay 269-70, 264Common Riding 146Comrie 207Connel 292cooking courses 228, 444Corryvreckan Whirlpool 267Corsewall Lighthouse

Hotel 175courses 228, 444, 461Cowal 254-5Craigievar Castle 205,

236, 24Craignure 283Crail 196-7Cramond 71

credit cards 461Crianlarich 247-8Crieff 207-9Crinan Canal 257-8crofting 354Cromarty 304cruises, see boat tripsCuillin Hills 379-80Culloden Battlefield 301Culross 187-8culture 446-51Culzean Castle & Country

Park 162curling 451currency 18customs regulations 459cycling 39, 465-6, 41

Braemar 318Edinburgh 72-3Glasgow 119Glen Lyon 328Loch Katrine Circuit 249Loch Leven Heritage

Trail 206-7Loch Lomond 243Lochs & Glens Cycle

Way 253Oban 275southern Scotland 150

DDeclaration of

Arbroath 434deer 454departure tax 465dinosaurs 384disabilities, travellers

with 456distilleries 238, 445

Aberfeldy Distillery 326Aberlour 238Ardbeg 16, 263, 16Ardnamurchan

Distillery 339Blair Athol Distillery 322Bowmore Distillery 264Bruichladdich 265Clydeside Distillery 116-17Eden Mill Distillery 195Edradour Distillery 322Glenmorangie 351Highland Park

Distillery 402-3Isla of Jura Distillery 267Islay 266Isle of Arran

Distillery 272Isle of Harris

Distillery 390Kilchoman 265Kingsbarns Distillery 196Kirkjuvagr Orkney

Gin 403

474

IND

EX D-G

distilleries continuedLagavulin 263Lagg Distillery 273Laphroaig 263Lindores Abbey Distillery

22, 188Lussa Gin 267Oban Distillery 275Old Pulteney 355Raasay Distillery 384Springbank 261Talisker Distillery 380Tobermory Distillery 284Torabhaig Distillery 378

diving & snorkellingOban 275-6Scapa Flow 412southern Scotland 154

dolphins 13, 13dolphin watching 236, 296,

303, 304, 341Dornoch 352-3Doune 186-7Doune Castle 186-7, 204Doyle, Sir Arthur Conan

446-7driving, see car traveldriving tours

Aberdeen 233, 233Borders region 155, 155Elgin 233, 233Fife Coast 199, 199Loch Ness 307, 307Mull 274, 274Northeast 250 22, 240northeast Scotland

233, 233Northern Highlands

367, 367Raiders’ Road 172southern Scotland

155, 155Trossachs 274, 274

Drumnadrochit 305-6Dufftown 237-9Duirinish 382-3Dumfries 163-6, 164Dumfries House 163Dun Bheagain 382Dunblane 185-6Dundee 22, 212-18, 214-15Dunfermline 188-9Dunkeld 320-2Dunnet Head 357Dunoon 254Dunstaffnage Castle 292,

204-5

Dunvegan 382Durness 360-1

EEalaghol 378-9Earlsferry 200East Neuk 196-200economy 431Edinburgh 11, 44, 48-105,

49, 52-3, 58-9, 66-7, 79, 2, 11, 21, 86, 87

accommodation 48, 76-81

activities 71-3children, travel with 71climate 48drinking 90-3emergencies 97entertainment 93-5events 74-6festivals 74-6food 48, 81-90highlights 49, 49history 50, 72internet access 97internet resources 98itineraries 51LGBTIQ+ travellers 92maps 97medical services 97-8nightlife 90-3postal services 98shopping 95-7sights 50-71tourist information 98travel seasons 48travel to/from 98-9travel within 99-100walking tours 78-9, 79

Edinburgh Castle 51-5, 56, 87

Edinburgh Festival Fringe 28, 75

Edinburgh International Festival 28, 75

Edinburgh Military Tattoo 75

Edinburgh Zoo 70-1Edzell 224-5Eigg 345-6Eilean Donan Castle 373, 14electricity 460Elgin 236-7Elgol 378-9Elie 200emergencies 19environment 452environmental issues 431,

453-4Eshaness 425-6Eskdale 167-8etiquette 21

events, see festivals & events

exchange rates 19Eyemouth 152-3

FFair Isle 427Falkirk Wheel 186Falkland 189-90Falls of Shin 22Fèis Ìle 262festivals & events 24,

27-8, 120, 201, see also Highland Games, music festivals

Fetlar 428Fife 187-200Fife Coastal Path 190Fife Coast, the 199, 199films 430fishing 40, 263

Arbroath 220Aviemore 310Gairloch 368Loch Leven 207Loch Rannoch 325Loch Tay 253, 328Outer Hebrides 393, 394River Dee 316River Spey 310, 314River Tay 321Skye 380

flights, see scenic flightsfood 21, 23, 220, 440-5, see

also individual locationsfootball 450-1forests 249, 309Forfar 219Forfar bridie 219Forsinard 360Fort Augustus 306-9Fort George 301Fort William 333-6Fortingall 328Fortrose 303-4Forvie National Nature

Reserve 234

GGaelic 447Gairloch 368-9Galloway Forest Park 171-3gardens, see parks &

gardensGarenin 388gay travellers 92, 128, 461geography 452geology 452Georgian House 67Gigha 260Gilmerton Cove 71Gladstone’s Land 55, 56

Glamis Castle 219, 32, 204

Glasgow 14, 44, 106-39, 108-9, 110-11, 116, 14, 132-3

accommodation 106, 120-4

activities 119children, travel with 122climate 106drinking 127-31entertainment 127-31,

131-4events 120festivals 120food 106, 124-7highlights 108-9, 108-9history 107internet access 136internet resources 136itineraries 114LGBTIQ+ travellers 128medical services 136postal services 136shopping 134-6sights 107-19tourist information 136tours 119-20travel seasons 106travel to/from 136-7travel within 137-8walking tours 121, 121

Glasgow Cathedral 112-13, 132

Glasgow School of Art 107Glasgow Science Centre

115-16Glen Affric 302-3Glen Clova 319-20Glen Coe 15, 329-32, 15Glen Feshie 313Glen Lyon 328Glen Nevis 336-7Glen Shiel 373-4Glen Torridon 370Gleneagles 206Glenelg 373-4Glenesk 320Glenfarclas 238Glenfiddich 238Glenfinnan 340Glenshee 319golden eagles 454golf 15, 37-9, 262, 353, 451

Alisa 163Broughty Ferry 218Edinburgh 73Royal Troon 159St Andrews 15, 191,

15, 41Golspie 353-4Gourock 138-9


475IN

DEX G

-M

Grantown-on-Spey 314Grassmarket 64Great Bernera 388-9Greenock 138-9Gretna 168Gretna Green 168, 169Greyfriars Bobby Statue

63-4Greyfriars Kirkyard 62Groove Loch Ness 305

Hhaggis 442, 443Handa Island 362Harris 389-92Harry Potter 333, 336, 340Hawick 148-9health 460Hebridean Celtic Festival

28, 386Hebrides, see Outer

HebridesHelmsdale 354Highland Clearances 354Highland Games 254, 277,

301, 318, 451Highland Perthshire 320-8Hill House 249Hillswick 425-6history 224, 432-9hitchhiking 467Hogmanay 28, 76holidays 462Holy Island 273Hopetoun House 101horseracing 159horse-riding 42Hoy 411-13

IInchcolm 104insurance 460internet access 460internet resources 19Inveraray 256-7Inverarnan 246Inverness 46, 296-300,

297Inversnaid 246-7Iona 287-9, 223Iona Abbey 288, 223Irvine 158islands 16, 26, 223, 16Islay 262-7, 264Isle of May 197Isle of Skye 11, 374-85,

10-11, 222-3Isle of Whithorn 174Isleornsay 378itineraries 29-32, 29,

30, 32

JJedburgh 149-51John Knox House 59John O’Groats 356Jura 267-8, 264

Kkayaking & canoeing 40, 35

Argyll 279Great Glen Canoe Trail

304, 334Lochinver 362Oban 275Plockton 372Road to the Isles 341Seil 280Shetland 425Skye 376Tay 321

Kelpies, the 186Kelso 151-2Kelvingrove Art Gallery &

Museum 114Kenmore 327Kerrera 279-80Killin 252-3Kilmartin Glen 258Kincraig 313Kingussie 314-15Kinlochleven 332-3Kinross 206-7Kintyre 258-62Kirkcudbright 170-1Kirkwall 401-5, 402Kirriemuir 221Knoydart 342-3Kyle of Lochalsh 373Kyleakin 377Kylesku 362

LLairg 352Lallans 447Lamb Holm 406Lamlash 273-5Lanark 156-7languages 18, 447, 461,

469-70Largs 157-9legal matters 461Leodhais 386-9Lerwick 418-22, 420lesbian travellers 92,

128, 461Lewis 386-9LGBTIQ+ travellers 92,

128, 461Lighthouse, the 112Linlithgow 105literature 446-8live music 131, 217, 231

Livingstone, David 139Loch Achray 250Loch Awe 291-2, 331, 330Loch Etive 292Loch Finlaggan 266Loch Fyne 257Loch Glencoul 362Loch Katrine 250Loch Ken 168Loch Leven 206-7Loch Lomond 12, 243-7,

244, 12Loch Lubnaig 252, 4, 35Loch Maree 369Loch Morlich 312Loch Ness 304-9, 331, 330Loch Ness monster 308Loch Rannoch 325-6Loch Tay 327-8Loch Tummel 325-6, 15Lochcarron 371Lochinver 362-4Lochranza 272-3Lord of the Isles 436Lost Valley 329, 15Lowland Scots 447Luing 280Luss 245Lybster 355Lyme disease 460

MMacallan distillery 238,

5, 443MacDiarmid, Hugh 447Macduff 239-40Machars, the 173-4Machrihanish 262Mackintosh at the Willow

22, 110-12, 132-3Mackintosh, Charles

Rennie 118, 249, 450Mackintosh House 114-15Maeshowe 407-8Mallaig 342Malt Whisky Trail 238maps 461marine wildlife 13, 352,

368, 13, see also dolphin watching, whale watching

markets 95, 444marriage 169Mary, Queen of Scots

435-6measures 458Melrose 144-6Mey 356-7midges 36, 461Midhowe Cairn &

Broch 415Minginish 380

minke whales 43mobile phones 18, 462money 18, 19, 21, 459,

461-2, 468Morar 340-1Moray 236-40motorcycle travel 465,

466-7Mount Stuart 256mountain biking 39-40, 41

Aviemore 309-10BikeGlenlivet 316Galloway Forest Park 172Glentrool 172Golspie 353Great Glen Mountain

Bike Trails 304Killin 253Kyle of Sutherland

Trails 352Nevis Range 337, 24New Abbey 167Newtonmore 315Peebles 141

Mousa 423-4Muck 346Mull 281-7, 282Mull of Galloway 175Mull of Galloway

Lighthouse 176Mull of Kintyre 261Munro Bagging 37Munro, Sir Hugh 37Museum of the Argyll & the

Sutherland Highlanders 182, 182

museums & galleries 25Aberdeen Art Gallery 227Aberdeen Maritime

Museum 226Andrew Carnegie Birth-

place Museum 188Bannockburn Heritage

Centre 180Beatrix Potter Exhibition

& Garden 321Black Watch Museum 201British Golf Museum 191Broughton House 170Broughty Castle

Museum 218Burns House 163Burrell Collection 117Calgary Art in

Nature 286Camera Obscura & World

of Illusions 55Clansman Centre 306Clò Mòr 391Crail Museum 196Culloden Visitor

Centre 301David Livingstone

Centre 139

476

IND

EX M-N

museums & galleries continued

Discovery Point 213Duff House 240Dumfries Museum

& Camera Obscura 163-4

Dundee Contemporary Arts 213

Dunfermline Carnegie Library & Galleries 189

Easdale Island Folk Museum 280

Elgin Museum 236Ellisland Farm 164-5Eyemouth Museum 153Famous Blacksmith’s

Shop 168Fergusson Gallery 201Gateway to the Glens

Museum 221, 319Glasgow Science Centre

115-16Glencoe Folk

Museum 329Glencoe Visitor

Centre 329Glenesk Retreat & Folk

Museum 320Glenfinnan Station

Museum 340Glenfinnan Visitor

Centre 340Gordon Highlanders

Museum 226-7Grampian Transport

Museum 235-6Grantown Museum 314Groam House

Museum 303Gunsgreen House 152-3Halliwell’s House

Museum 147Hamilton Toy

Collection 250Hawick Museum & Art

Gallery 148Hebridean Whale &

Dolphin Trust 283Highland Folk

Museum 315Highland Museum of

Childhood 350HM Frigate Unicorn 213Hugh Miller’s Cottage &

Museum 304Hunterian Art Gallery

114-15Hunterian Museum 115Inveraray Jail 257Inverness Museum & Art

Gallery 296

Iona Heritage Centre 288

Isle of Arran Heritage Museum 271

Jedburgh Castle Jail 149JM Barrie’s

Birthplace 221Kelvin Hall 115Kelvingrove Art Gallery &

Museum 114Kildonan Museum 394Kilmartin House

Museum 258Kirkcudbright

Galleries 170Knockando Woolmill 238Land, Sea & Islands

Visitor Centre 341Loch Fyne Gallery 259Loch Ness Centre &

Exhibition 305Mallaig Heritage

Centre 342McLean Museum & Art

Gallery 139McManus Galleries 213Melt Gallery 324Mull Museum 284Museum nan Eilean 386Museum of Childhood 59Museum of Edinburgh 60Museum of Islay Life

265-6Museum of Lead

Mining 168Museum of the Argyll

& the Sutherland Highlanders 182, 182

Museum of the Isles 378Nairn Museum 301National Museum of

Scotland 63National War Museum of

Scotland 54-5New Lanark Visitor

Centre 156Old Haa Museum 426Orkney Museum 403Orkneyinga Saga

Centre 415Our Dynamic Earth 63Paisley Museum 138People’s Palace 114People’s Story 59-60Perth Museum & Art

Gallery 201Portsoy Salmon

Bothy 240Queen’s Gallery 62-3Riverside Museum 115Robert Burns Birthplace

Museum 162Robert Burns Centre 164Ross of Mull Historical

Centre 287

Royal Scottish Academy 66

Russian Arctic Convoy Exhibition Centre 368

Sanday Heritage Centre 416

Scalloway Museum 422-3

Scapa Flow Visitor Cen-tre & Museum 411-12

Scotch Whisky Experience 55

Scotland’s Secret Bunker 198

Scottish Crannog Centre 327

Scottish Fisheries Museum 197

Scottish Football Museum 118-19

Scottish Lighthouse Museum 235

Scottish Maritime Museum 158

Scottish National Gallery 65

Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art 69

Scottish National Portrait Gallery 68

Scottish Slate Islands Heritage Trust 280

Shetland Crofthouse Museum 424

Shetland Museum 418Shetland Textile

Museum 418Sir Walter Scott’s

Courtroom 147Skerryvore Lighthouse

Museum 289Skye Museum of Island

Life 383St Mungo’s Museum of

Religious Life & Art 113St Vigeans Museum 220Staffin Dinosaur

Museum 384Stranraer Museum 174Strathnaver

Museum 359Stromness Museum

409-10Sumburgh Head Visitor

Centre 424Surgeons’ Hall

Museums 63Taigh Chearsabhagh 393Tain Through Time 351Talla na Mara 391Tangwick Haa

Museum 425Timespan 354Tolbooth Art Centre 170Tomintoul & Glenlivet

Discovery Centre 316

Uig Museum 389Ullapool Museum 365Unst Boat Haven 427Unst Heritage Centre 427V&A Dundee 212-13Verdant Works 213Víkingar! 158Watermill 326West Highland Museum

333-4Westray Heritage

Centre 413Whisky Museum 238Whithorn Timescape 173Wick Heritage

Centre 355Writers’ Museum 55

music 448music festivals 448

Arran Folk Festival 271Celtic Connections 120Edinburgh International

Jazz & Blues Festival 76

Fèis Ìle 262Glasgow Jazz

Festival 120Groove Loch Ness 305Hebridean Celtic

Festival 386Highlands & Islands

Music & Dance Festival 277

Islay Jazz Festival 262Mendelssohn on

Mull 282Mull Music Festival 282Shetland Folk

Festival 418St Magnus Festival 403Tarbert Music

Festival 259Tiree Music Festival

289-90TRNSMT 120

NNa Gearrannan 388Na Hearadh 389-92Nairn 301-2National Library of

Scotland 115national parks &

reserves 453Ben Lawers National

Nature Reserve 327Cairngorms National

Park 309-20, 311Glen Affric National

Nature Reserve 302Trossachs National Park

243, 248-53, 244National Wallace

Monument 179-80Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

47 7IN

DEX N

-S nature reserves

Craigellachie Nature Reserve 309

Handa Island Nature Reserve 362

Hermaness National Nature Reserve 426

Isle of Noss 422Noup Head 413

Nevis Range 337-8, 24New Abbey 167New Lanark 156-7Newport 22Newport Restaurant 217newspapers 458Newtonmore 314-15New Waverley 22North Berwick 104-5North Coast 500 359North Ronaldsay 416North Uist 393northeast Scotland 45,

210-40, 211accommodation 210climate 210food 210highlights 211, 211travel seasons 210

northern Highlands & islands 46, 347-96, 348-9

accommodation 347climate 347food 347highlights 348-9, 348-9travel seasons 347

Noss 422

OOban 275-9, 276, 16Old Man of Hoy 411, 26Old Town Jail (Stirling) 179Old Town (Stirling) 184opening hours 462Orkney 46, 400-16, 398-9

accommodation 397climate 397food 397highlights 398-9, 398-9travel seasons 397

otters 454Outer Hebrides 385-96, 375Outlander 189, 333

PPaisley 138Palace of Holyroodhouse

61-3, 57palaces, see castles &

palacesPapa Westray 414

parks & gardensAchamore Gardens 260Benmore Botanic

Garden 254Burns Monument &

Memorial Gardens 161Cambo Walled

Garden 196Castle Kennedy

Gardens 174Colonsay House

Gardens 269Dundee Law 214Dunkeld House

Grounds 321Explorers Garden 322Inverewe Garden 368Logan Botanic Garden

175-6Ness Islands 296Princes Street

Gardens 64Royal Botanic Garden 70

Paxton House 153Peat Inn 196Peebles 141-4Pennan 239Perth 200-6, 202Perthshire 15, 200-9, 15 see

also Highland PerthshirePictish symbol stones 224Pitlochry 322-4Pittenweem 198planning 20-1

activities 33-43budgeting 19calendar of events 27-8internet resources 19itineraries 29-32, 29,

30, 32repeat visitors 22Scotland basics 18-19Scotland’s regions 44-6travel seasons 18, 27-8

Plockton 371-2politics 430-1population 431Port Askaig 266-7Port Charlotte 265-6Port Ellen 263-4Portpatrick 176Portree 380-2Port Righ 380-2Portsoy 240postal services 462Provand’s Lordship 113public holidays 462pubs 25, 91, 445puffins 16, 5, 16, 222

QQueensferry 101-4

RRaasay 384-5radio 458rafting 321, 326railways 309, 312-13, 333rainfall 452Rannoch Moor 325Real Mary King’s Close 58-9religion 431renewable energy 453-4Resurrection Men 62Rhinns of Galloway 175-6Riding of the Marches 146Road to the Isles 339-42Robert Burns

Mausoleum 165Robert the Bruce 434Rob Roy 253rock climbing 42, 334, 374-5Romans 432-3Rosemarkie 303-4Rosslyn Chapel 101, 102-3,

102-3, 86 Rothesay 255-6Rousay 415Rowardennan 246Royal Deeside 316-19Royal Mile 56-7, 56-7Royal Yacht Britannia 70, 86rugby union 451ruins

Alloway Auld Kirk 161Beauly Priory 302Clickimin Broch 418Crossraguel Abbey 162Culross Abbey 188Dryburgh Abbey 146-7Dunfermline Abbey &

Palace 188Earl’s Palace 403, 409Finlaggan 266-7Inchmahome Priory 249Jedburgh Abbey 149Kelso Abbey 151Melrose Abbey 144Oronsay Priory 269Ruthven Barracks 315St Andrews Cathedral 190St Ninian’s Chapel 174Sweetheart Abbey 167Tantallon Castle 104

Rum 344Ruthwell Cross 166-7

Ssafety 33sand dunes 234Sanday 415-16Sandwick 423-4Sandwood Bay 361Scalloway 422-3

Scapa Flow 412scenic flights 243-5Schiehallion 331, 331Scots 447Scott Monument 64Scott, Sir Walter 147, 446Scottish Gaelic 447Scottish National Gallery 65Scottish National Gallery of

Modern Art 69Scottish National Portrait

Gallery 68Scottish Parliament

Building 61, 57, 86Scottish Seabird Centre 104Scourie 362Scrabster 357-8scuba-diving 42Seil 280-1Selkirk 147-8senior travellers 459, 468Sharmanka Kinetic Theatre

107, 110, 133Sherlock Holmes 446-7Shetland 46, 416-28, 398-

9, 222accommodation 397climate 397food 397highlights 398-9, 398-9travel seasons 397

shinty 451shopping 25, 135Skara Brae 17, 408, 17Skipness 260Skye 374-85, 375, 222-3Sleat 378Smailholm Tower 205, 204Small Isles 343-6smoking 458snorkelling, see diving &

snorkellingSnow Roads 314snow sports 42-3

Cairngorm Mountain 313Glen Coe 329Glenshee 319Lecht 2090 316Nevis Range 337

soccer, see footballSouth Argyll 254-70South Lanarkshire 156-7South Ronaldsay 406-7South Uist 394-5southern Highlands &

islands 45, 241-92, 242accommodation 241climate 241food 241highlights 242, 242travel seasons 241

478

IND

EX S-Z

southern Scotland 45, 140-76, 142-3

accommodation 140climate 140driving tour 155, 155food 140highlights 142-3, 142-3travel seasons 140

Southern Upland Way 150Spark, Dame Muriel 447Speyside Cooperage 238Speyside Way 37Spirit of Speyside 238sports 134, 450-1squirrels 454St Abbs 153-6St Abbs & Eyemouth

Voluntary Marine Reserve 154

St Abb’s Head National Nature Reserve 154

St Andrews 15, 190-5, 192, 15

St Cuthbert’s Way 150St Fillans 207St Giles Cathedral 55-8, 57St Kilda 395St Monans 198-200Staffa 288, 222standing stones

Callanish Standing Stones 388, 2, 31

Kilmartin Glen 258Ring of Brodgar 408Standing Stones of

Stenness 408Steornabhagh 386-8Stevenson, Robert

Louis 446Stirling 178-85, 181Stirling Castle 17, 178-9,

182-3, 182-3, 17Stirling region 178-87Stone of Destiny 65Stonehaven 234-5Stornoway 386-8Stranraer 174-5

Strathdon 235-6Strathglass 302-3Strathnaver 360Strathpeffer 350-1Stromness 409-11Sumburgh 424Summer Isles 365surfing 42swimming 234

TTain 351-2Tarbert 259-60, 390Tarbet 245Taynuilt 292telephone services 462-3television 458theatres 134, 157, 217Thurso 357-8ticks 460Tighnabruaich 254-5time 18, 463tipping 21, 462Tiree 289-90, 282Tobermory 283-5toilets 463Tomintoul 315-16Torridon 370tourism 431tourist information 463tours 467train travel 465, 467-8Traquair House 145travel to/from Scotland

464-5travel within Scotland 100,

465-8Troon 159Trossachs 243, 248-53,

244, 7Trotternish 383-4Turnberry 162-3Tyndrum 247-8

UUibhist A Deas 394-5Uibhist A Tuath 393Uist, see North Uist, South

UistUllapool 365-6University of Glasgow 132-3Unst 426-8Up Helly Aa 419upper Strathearn 207

Vvacations 462vegetarian travellers 84, 442visas 18, 463volunteering 463

Wwalking 25, 33-7, 35

Affric-Kintail Way 302Arbroath 220

Ballater 317Beinn Eighe Mountain

Trail 369Ben Arthur 248Ben Bhraggie 353Ben Lomond 248Ben Nevis 12, 331, 338,

13, 330-1Berwickshire Coastal

Path 154Birks of Aberfeldy 326Borders Abbeys Way 150Braemar 318Callander 251Cape Wrath Trail 363Cateran Trail 209Cobbler 248Corryvreckan

Viewpoint 268Cowal Way 254Edinburgh 72Falls of Clyde 156Fife Coastal Path 190Five Sisters of Kintail 374Glasgow 119Gleann Lichd 374Glen Lyon 328Glencoe Lochan 329Glenshee 319Goatfell 271Great Glen Way 304Great Trossachs Path

22, 243Grey Mare’s Tail 333Hebridean Way 394Hermitage 321Kerrera 279Killin 253Kintyre Way 259Ladhar Bheinn 343Loch Achray 250Loch Leven Heritage Trail

206-7Loch Lomond 243Loch Morlich 312Lost Valley 329Mamores 333Meallfuarvonie 304Neptune’s Staircase

334, 337Rob Roy Way 243safety 33Sgurr of Eigg 345Skye 374South Loch Ness Trail 304southern Scotland 150Southern Upland Way 150

Speyside Way 37Stac Pollaidh 364St Cuthbert’s Way 150Three Lochs Way 243Tinto Hill 157Torridon 370West Highland Way 13,

34-7, 13, 35Whithorn Way 173-4

walking toursCairngorm Reindeer

Centre 312Colonsay 269Edinburgh 73, 78-9, 79Glasgow 119, 121, 121Glencoe 329Mull 282Skye 376

Wallace, William 185, 434Waternish 382-3water sports 243, 289, 312weather 18, 27-8, 452, see

also individual regionsweights 458West End Festival 28West Highland Way 13,

34-7, 13, 35west Highlands 328-43Westray 413-14whale watching 43, 284,

341, 368, 386whisky 16, 238, 445, 5, 16white-water rafting,

see raftingWhithorn 173Wick 355Wigtown 173wildcats 454wildlife reserves, see zoos

& wildlife reserveswildlife tours 281, 282, 327,

334, 417wildlife-watching 13, 172

228, 453, 454Willow tearoom 110-12,

132-3women travellers 463work 463

Yyachting 42Yell 426

Zzoos & wildlife reserves

70-1, 313, 321, 393


479

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

U-Bahn/Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationS-Bahn/Subway stationTaxi

Train station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Mudflat

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

CampingHut/Shelter

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

Tube station

T-bane/Tunnelbana station

Gate

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

ShoppingNote: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

Map Legend


OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415310th edition – April 2019ISBN 978 1 78657 803 7© Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 201910 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSNeil WilsonEdinburgh, Central Scotland, Northeast Scotland, Inverness & the Central High-lands, Northern Highlands & Islands Neil was born in Scotland and has lived there most of his life. Based in Perthshire, he has been a full-time writer since 1988, working on more than 80 guidebooks for various publishers, including the Lonely Planet guides to Scotland, England, Ireland and Prague. An outdoors enthusiast since childhood, Neil is an active hill-walker, mountain-biker, sailor,

snowboarder, fly-fisher and rock-climber, and has climbed and tramped in four continents, includ-ing ascents of Jebel Toubkal in Morocco, Mount Kinabalu in Borneo, the Old Man of Hoy in Scot-land’s Orkney Islands and the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome in California’s Yosemite Valley.

Andy SymingtonGlasgow, Southern Scotland, Southern Highlands & Islands, Northern Highlands & Islands, Orkney & Shetland Andy has written or worked on over a hundred books and other updates for Lonely Planet (especially in Europe and Latin Amer-ica) and other publishing companies, and has published articles on numerous subjects for a variety of newspapers, magazines, and websites. He part-owns and operates a rock bar, has written a novel and is currently working on several

fiction and non-fiction writing projects. Originally from Australia, Andy moved to northern Spain many years ago.

Sophie McGrathAround Edinburgh Sophie is a London-based travel writer who has written for many UK publications. Formerly on staff at Lonely Planet magazine, she was named 2017 AITO Young Travel Writer of the Year. Her most memorable adven-tures include chasing the Northern Lights in Norway, getting stranded on a mountain in China and falling head over heels for Addis Ababa, Ethiopia. This is her first destination update for Lonely Planet.



© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’

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