specialist project leathercraft manual justin schlichter dec 2007
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The Leathercraft
Manual
The Leathercraft
Manual
byJustin T. Schl ichter
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The Leathercraft Manual
b yJus t in T. Sch l ichter
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Introduction
Welcome to leathercraft! My name is Justin Schlichter and I am 16
years old. I learned how to leathercraft at the age of 12 and began a
leather business, J&G Leather, when I was 13. My business consists of
selling products to stores and individuals. I do anything from making cell
phone cases to repairing saddles. I would like to encourage you to learnleathercrafting, an enjoyable and worthwhile hobby.
Leathercrafting can also be used as a ministry opportunity. God can use
your leather products to bless other people by giving away leather items
to people at retirement homes, friends, or spiritual leaders.
In this book, I talk about the basics of leather and tooling. However,
there is much more to be learned about leathercrafting. This book is only
designed to whet your appetite in the art. Located in the back of themanual are recommended sources for all your leathercrafting endeavors.
I hope that this manual will be useful as you explore the exciting art of
leathercrafting!
Justin T. Schlichter, CFC, ALERT Cadets
Table of ContentsLeather ................................................................................. 5
Buying Leather ...................................................................... 5
Tooling ................................................................................. 6
Stamping .............................................................................. 7
Carving ................................................................................. 8
Recommended Shopping Avenues.......................................... 10
Recommended Books ........................................................... 11
Notes .................................................................................. 12
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Leather
There are many types of leather on the market today, some are synthetic and others are re
However, there are three that every beginner should be aware ofVegetable-tanned, Latigo, a
Suede.
Vegetable tanned (or Veg-tanned) leather can be tooled, molded, dyed, or painted. In the past, vetanned leather was tanned with certain types of vegetation containing an acid called tannins such
oak bark, gallnuts and sumac leaves. Leather is now tanned out of country using various chemicals.
Latigo
leather is tanned using a special tanning process that puts the leather in a drum and spins
while packing it with hot oils and waxes. This keeps it from stretching and makes it virtually mo
and mildew resistant. This process makes latigo an excellent choice for straps and other relat
items. However, latigo leather cannot be carved. It can be stamped, but it will not look near as cri
as Veg-tanned leather will.
Suede leather is good for lining, fringe, etc. However, it cannot be tooled, and if dyed, the dye will
forever coming off all over everything it touches. One example of suede leather is hiking boots.
Buying Leather
Most leather is priced by the square foot and sold by the hide. Leather is also sold in differe
thicknesses referred to as weight. The weight of leather is measured in ounces. One ounce is equal 1/64
thof an inch of thickness. For example, an eight-ounce hide is approximately 1/8thof an inch thic
Vegetab
le-tanned
Leather
LatigoLeather
Sued
eLea
ther
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Tooling
There are two main types of toolingstamping and carving.Stamping
is when you emboss the
leather using alphabet stamps or picture stamps.Carving
is done by first tracing the outline of the
design, then cutting the outline of it, and lastly using special tools to give the design the desired look.
Before you begin either stamping or carving, you will need a few basic tools. Some of these youprobably have at home.
Bowl
for water. DONOTuse a metal bowl. Bare metal and wet leather cause a chemical reaction
which stains the leather black.
Spongeto wet leather. Any sponge will work, but try to avoid one that will scratch the leather.
HammerNEVERuse a steel hammer on leather tools or it will damage the tools. Wooden hammers
work well and can be purchased at an inexpensive price. Rawhide mallets last a lot longer, but costfive to ten times the price. Polymer mallets are the toughest but cost much more.
Hard Surfaceyou will want to work on a solid table or something with a little give so as to give a
crisp, clean impression. (Do not use a bare metal surface and stain your leather. See bowls.)
Stampseither alphabet stamps, picture stamps, or seven basic tools. (Tools are used for carving.)
Leatherbe sure you have the right kind of leather.
Beveler, Pearshader, Camouflage, Veiner, Backgrounder, SeederBelow:Heel and Toes of Camouflage Stamp (For instructions to use these tools, see pages 89.)
Alphabet Stamps
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Stamping
The first step in either stamping or carving is to case (or wet) the leather. To case your leather, fi
dip your sponge in the water and squeeze out about half of the water or squeeze until the water sto
dripping off the sponge. Next, wipe the sponge across your leather two to three times so as to ma
an even layer of water on your leather. Wait a few minutes until the leather has almost returned
its original color. You are now ready to stamp. Remember that casing leather takes a lot of practto get the exact moisture content, so just experiment until you get the desired result.
When stamping, you want to hold the tool straight up and down with your thumb on one side of t
tool and your four fingers on the other side. (See picture.) Press down firmly to prevent the tool fro
wobbling when struck with the mallet. Now hold your mallet above the tool and strike it sharp
pivoting in your wrist. (See picture.) Next, lift your tool to check your impression. If you have a fa
impression, then carefully re-set the tool and hit it again. You should form the habit of achieving
even impression with just one blow. When stamping veg-tanned leather, it will appear dark and sh
where stamped if cased properly.
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Carving
Carving is more difficult than stamping and takes much more practice to master. However, it is well
worth the practice. There are many styles of carving such as the following: traditional carving, figure
carving, inverted style carving, filigree carving, and the list goes on. The most basic is traditional style
which will be covered in this manual.
Step one is to case your leather. Then transfer your pattern to the leather using tracing film and a
stylus. Tracing film is just a thin sheet of clear plastic and a stylus is simply a tool with a little ball on
the end of it. A dried ball-point pen works great for a stylus.
The next step is to cut the outline of the pattern onto the leather using a swivel knife. The swivel
knife should be held as shown and drawn towards the body while turning in the fingers to cut curves.
Also shown is a practice pattern that is recommended you cut out before starting on a project. Thiswill help you get the hang of the tool.
Now you will begin using the other six of the seven basic tools to give the design the desired look.
The order you use the tools does not matter, although you will want to do the backgrounder and
seeder when there is a minimum amount of moisture in the leather. (Usually last.) If your leather
begins to dry, then re-case the same as you did before, wait till it is ready to tool, and resume tooling.
I usually begin by using the beveler. The beveler is shaped in a way so as to make the line you bevel
look raised by depressing the leather around it. Beveling is usually done on the outside of the design;
although if ever in doubt about where to bevel,simply remember that you always bevel on the
outside of what you want to look raised. The
beveller is walked along the leather slightly
overlapping each impression and hitting with an
even amount of force to give an even appearance.
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Next is the pear shader. The pear shader is
used to give flower peals and similar items a
three dimensional look. Be sure you do not
strike too hard with the pear shader that you
flatten the entire section. You only want to
dimple the center. Study the picture to better
understand the correct use of the tool.
Next are the camouflage and veiner stamps. The
stamps are used to add decorative design to flo
patterns and are also good for borders. There a
two different sides to the stamps called the t
and heel. (See picture on page 6.) If there is n
room for a full impression, then care should
taken to lean the tool so as not to stamp off t
desired spot onto another.
The last two tools are the backgrounder and
seeder, As mentioned above, these tools should be
used when there is very little moisture in the
leather. The backgrounder, as its name suggests,
is used to background all the areas that are not a
part of the actual design. The backgrounder
should be hit very lightly to help maintain an even
appearance. The seeder is used to make seeds onthe pattern and can also be used for eyes or periods.
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Recommended Shopping Avenues
Leather and leather tools can be purchased at special leather stores as well as your local craft store.
Leather stores offer a wider selection of products; craft stores often sell them for a better price.
Tandy Leather Company
1(866) 537-2952
Tandy Leather Company is a nationwide store that offers great service. I buy about 95% of my
leather products at Tandy and have always been pleased with the service and quality. Call to get the
nearest store. (If there is not a store near you, you can order through mail or online.)
Hobby Lobbyalso sells leather tools that can often be bought using a coupon.
Michaels
, like Hobby Lobby, sells leather tools that can be purchased using a coupon.
Wal Martsome Wal-Marts sell leather tools usually at a lower price than most other places.
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Recommended Books
Below are some recommended books, each of which can be purchased from Tandy Leather Compan
Tech Tips
by Al Stohlmanthis book thoroughly covers the techniques of carving and stamping using dozens of illustrations. It also covers the different tools needed for the different designs.
Leathercraft Toolsby Al Stohlmanthis book is a must-have for anyone interested in leathercra
Through many illustrations, it describes how to use almost all the tools necessary for leathercraft
well as how to sharpen them.
Projects and esigns by Al Stolhmanthis book is filled with a variety of different small leath
projects. It also includes all the tooling patterns and even some alternate designs.
Leathercrafting Manuals
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Notes
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Published by J&G Leather
Copyright 2007 by Justin T. Schlichter
For permission to reproduce portions from this book, or for any other questions, please contact:
Justin T. Schlichter
P.O. Box 98
Willis, Texas 77378
Phone: (936) 499-4385