PROFESSIONAL BACHELOR’SADMISSION ASSIGNMENT

Speciality Programme: Fashion DesignTeodora Cucu, April 2013

1. PERSONAL PORTFOLIO P. 2 /16

Recent Project P. 3 /10

Hand Sketches/ Illustrations P. 11

Technical Drawings/Working Sketches P. 12

Line ups P. 13

Media P. 14/15

Products P. 16

2. ADMISSION ASSIGNMENT P. 17

PERSONAL PORTFOLIOThe personal portfolio illustrates the relevant professional levels reached so far throughout Teko AP Degree Program.

It has been chosen to show first the recent project –collection development, as a result of the development during the AP Degree. It is mostly covering all designers’ strong points, the process of idea creation after collection planning and design DNA analysing; sketching and tracing forms , target group analysis, cho-sen theme and layering up to the sales book. Each element of the recent project shown, it will be described shortly as well as its relevance to the subject.

Hand sketching is a strong tool for each designer. It is known that each fashion creator is using different methods to express physically an idea. But the easiest way to illustrate is by hand fast sketching.

Detailed drawings and fashion illustrations emphasize the mood of a process when it comes to collection core value.

Technical drawings takes the designer one step further while being understood by the manufacturers worldwide.

Line ups have been chosen to be shown due to their importance in collection basic reckon. They are also a good way to show the level of styling competences.

Media and visualization is a path where fashion meets rules and delimitates the facile creation process from the professional level. It is also a good way to get inspired and most of all-to play. In order to be a complete designer, one should take a deep consideration into graphic rules and reader understanding. Therefore I have chosen to show my wok in this field, by illustrating ex-amples of color cards, mood boards, logos and labels.

C O N T E N T

RECENT PROJECTCollection DevelopmentDesign DNA Analysis

After choosing DKNY brand as

basis for my recent collection, the analysis

has begun with the Design DNA and research.

Here you can find an example of the way I divide and interpret the

information through all the points that should be reached.

Collection DevelopmentTarget Group

The target group analysis is one of the most important points that I usually take a deep consideration into.

In order to reach it, it must be clear among visual and practical statements.

In each paragraph can be found relevant reasons for the chosen illustrations.

It could be mentioned that the target group shown does not informs about the exist-ing flaws of the woman cho-sen as target, which might make it unrealistic for the reader. On the other hand it is show-ing a joyful state of mind, which in this case, character-izes the brand.

Collection DevelopmentCollection Planning

The following step to develop-ing a collection is to plan it. I have been shown next, the way of planning mine and explained as well why I have been chosen to make an exten-sion of an already existing col-lection for my picked brand. Furthermore, it is illustrated the method used for the creation process with reasons and expla-nation. In order to be a ‘tidy’ designer and have the possibility of start-ing from one scratch again with more ideas or develop old ones, the planning and methods should be ure-placeable.

Collection DevelopmentCollection theme

In my opinion a designer’s horizon of creativity nowadays has been roughly narrowed. Therefore each piece of clothing should have relevant inspiration, method, story or a genius spark behind it. Moreover this is the easiest way to bring value of the garment in the user’s perception. The main question that led to my inspiration was: ‘What is literally chic about streets?’. Here you can find all the information and analysis behind each idea.

Collection DevelopmentLayout tryouts

The layout choosing process for the salesbook has been my first attempt into giving considerable importance in graphics.

Here is shown the story behind it and my reasons for deciding upon a single model.

Collection DevelopmentExample of tracing forms and shiluete tracing

After going through all compulsory steps of a

collection development idea, the creative process started us-

ing tracing forms method. I have found that tracing forms is a

playful and creative way to develop lines and silhouettes for clothing. Every placement

of the object traced gives endless possibilities, and ideas maybe never thought.

It has been the beginning of sketching up to the point of choosing the final garments.

Collection DevelopmentFinal Clothing Fluid Sketches

Collection DevelopmentSalesbook Example of pages

The sales book represents in a few pages the designer’s hard work throughout months.

Few examples from my project collection sales-book are illustrated below such as: front page,

four of the basic pieces, style overview and color card idea for the printed version of the

book.

Below are shown illustrations made for menswear collec-tions during the AP Degree. The graphical programs used are Adobe Illustrator and Adobe Photoshop.

Next, can be found different examples of pencil approach; hand drawn fashion illustrations, pieces from collections, small part of a wedding collection sketching and product shape study.

HAND SKETCHING/ILLUSTRATIONS

TECHNICAL DRAWING/WORKING SKETCHES

EVOLUTION

TECHNICAL DETAILS PLEATS

GEOMETRY

LAYERINGTEXTILE RELIEF

TEXTILE CIRCLES

I have been chosen menswear working sketch-es to sum up the main focuses among my personal work: womenswear, children wear and menswear.

Before settling on a specific category of cloth-ing, I believe it is necessary to have deep ac-knowledgments in all fields.

I have illustrated two of the jackets designs in Balmain style, followed by ‘TEKO’ collegewear small collection and working sketches of mens-wear tops,shirts and jackets.

Above: Example of technical drawing of differ-ent designing approaches. The reason of illus-trating the example is the wide range of ways to design, relevant for finding my own niche.

Side: Example of detail drawing of the product pic-tured at page 16. Dress inspired by draping method.

LINE UPS

MEDIA

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During my spare time, one of the major focuses is gath-ering inspiration for fu-ture designs and projects.

Basically relevant for the ability of creating color-cards and inspirational moodboards, here , I have illustrated some examples of my work, both for school projects and personal use.

Colorcards/moodboards

MEDIA

Children Collection

Chloé2 3 4 5 6 7

Made in Paris

100% COTTONBOMULD/COTONKEEP AWAY FROM

FIREHOLDE SIG VÆK FRA BRAND/ TENIR ÉLOGINÉ DU FEU

AGE 6Wash dark colours

separately Waske mørkt tøj separat/

Laver les vêtements sombres séparément

Made in France

2103048562554236872012

103 58562463 20263 002

US SIZE 6

5856246

The ability of a designer to create logos, labels and graphics relevant to the future brand identity is al-ways a plus. It is a matter of business to save personnel and profit in a future company. Here are illustrated attempts into the field: ‘Chloe’ Childrenswear inspired label and care label and examples of logos tryouts during extracurricular work.‘Plasmus’: Science Plasma Speaker - entertainment product. ‘Fress’: Fashion Arts and Crafts Magazine. ‘Orum’ : Sustainable Fashion Com-pany.

Logos/Labels

PLASMUS PLASMUS

PLASMUS

PLASMUS

PLASMUS

PRODUCTS

Small business designers must be able to create a physical gar-ment by themselves. Therefore, I have chosen to show few of the school recent proj-ects: wool embroidery coat, wide draped back dress, knitted and woven childrenswear dresses. The piece below represents a wool vest, which has been made during the work experience in August 2012 and sold in the com-pany’s store.

ADMISSION ASSIGNMENT

In my opinion, for a design to be evaluated as good, it must get through certain filters: func-tionality, designing technique and material, fitting, visual im-pact, movement, comfort, easy care, public reception and suc-cess, originality, innovatively, cultural openness.

In the following report it will be stated why the chosen piece meets most of the criteria men-tioned above. First it should be mentioned that the piece has been created using the revolutionary pleating technique invented by the Jap-anese designer Issey Miyake in 1991. The idea was to create a fast and simple way of perma-nent pleating, as thousands of very sharp overlapping folds in the textiles to give more vol-ume to the material, change the dynamic and emphasize the movement of the living human body that wears the final cloth-ing piece. Second, it is the path where amazing design easily meets the functionality product potential. Another reason to stamp the piece as a great design is the easy way of creation, which is one of the desired methods of

a creator. Innate out of neces-sity in the business at the time, the material pleating technique is candid and open to most of manufacturers because of its industrial process, which allows both form and texture to be created in the same time. Furthermore, best for women then as it is now. It is a fast moving world, which gives us difficulties in taking extra care of clothing, time is precious, therefore this pleated high quality 100% polyester piece is easy to care, functional and practical: requires no ironing, can be machine washed, and dry within hours and it can eas-ily be stored in small places and fast packed suitcases. It has been also chosen to il-lustrate a good design, not just because it is a piece born out of a genius idea but also because it is on the market nowadays, online stores and a craved styl-ish piece. Moreover it has an immortal design proofed by the old technique used. There are few clothing pieces that can be seamlessly open to various cultures. This garment fulfills the designer job to cre-ate clothes in such way that the wearer has the possibility of

self expression throughout the freedom of movement which means happiness, joy, being what a human being is looking for no matter what her/his be-lieves are.

Taking in consideration that the design assessment should be objective because of the endless tastes, I have focused more on the technique used and practical criteria, but tak-ing a look into the visual ap-pearance of the jacket, in my opinion, the design has a good aesthetic throughout the high-lighted edges which empha-sizes the woman body. The loose fit excludes the difficulty of matching the large shapes of woman’s bodies while hid-ing the flaws or revealing the figures beauty. Moreover, the minimalistic noncolour grad-ing brings simplicity, enlarges the use of it, from daywear to nightwear and also by the long story behind it, brings the mys-terious value in the user’s psy-chological side.

1. Find an example of what you believe is good design. Illustrate your choice of good design with photos and give reasons for your choice. 2. Account for how you would like to influence the design development.

Speaking about the design development nowadays, it can be stated that further de-velopments are hard to be created and in-novations became harder and harder to be discovered. But as an example, taking in consideration the pleating subject specified in the first part of the assignment, an innovation throughout the fitting criteria of a garment could be developed. If imagining the pleated garment on a body which might fit the size but not the entire shape, pleats can open on undesired places, creating a distorted/wrong idea of the design. Pleated garments are pre-tentious to wear. They should have all around perfect fitting on a body in order to look as designed. Therefore, my desire would be to influence the fashion design with developing standard fitting measurements instead of various sizes and ‘trying to reach best fitting’ today’s avail-able charts and measurements of clothing. There are at least 10 female different exist-

ing body shapes known mostly by the names: hourglass, brick, pear, triangle, inverse trian-gle, bell, apple, vase, goblet or cello. Not to mention the bust shapes and legs lengths. Thus after research and analysis of the de-sired target market each designer could create and find the perfect fitting for women/men, in order to fulfill the wanted design and exclude private customer meetings and fit-tings, as well as saving time. Moreover, taking it further to the worldwide market, online shopping will increase be-ing finally understood as a safe choice and the percent of buyers will increase as well. Furthermore, the physical stores will not be affected because the buyer desire to feel the materials and shopping activity will never de-crease. The innovation will facilitate the ‘busy’ market, as well as the unreachable pieces, unique, also be a second chance for in store sold garments.

Issey Miyake black pleated folded jacket featuring tonal grey panels, three quarter length sleeves, pointed wide lapels and a loose fit.

DESIGNED BY TEODORA CUCUAPRIL 2013