the epicure, the age newspaper

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NATAGE G012 12 EPICURE THE AGE Tuesday, February 2, 2010 Lazy days in the sun Nikki Haynes discovers watering holes offering a chance to catch late summer’s rays. Oldies but goodies Siglo Level 2 (above the Melbourne Supper Club), 161 Spring Street, 9654 6300; theeuropean.com.au Madame Brussels 63 Bourke Street, 9662 2775; madamebrussels.com Red Hummingbird 1st Floor, 246 Russell Street, 9654 2266; theredhummingbird.com Belgian Beer Cafe Bluestone 557 St Kilda Road, 9529 2899; belgianbeercafe melbourne.com MoVida Terrazza, at 500 Bourke Street, is perfect for sun-seekers. PICTURE: EDDIE JIM On hot days, there’s plenty of cold comfort at (left) the Local Taphouse at St Kilda and Match Bar & Grill in the city. PICTURES: GARY MEDLICOTT, SIMONE STABB NEXT GENERATION T HE sun is still shining and you want to be outside having a drink with your friends but you’re tired of the rooftops and beer gardens where you hung out last year. Luckily, you’re in Melbourne, a city with a constantly evolving bar and restaurant scene. Here are some exciting additions. For strutting your stuff Emerald Peacock (233 Lonsdale Street; theemeraldpeacock.com) Open: Mon-Wed, 4pm-midnight; Thurs-Fri, 4pm-1am; Sat, 6pm-1am Located on the site of a former Buddhist centre, there’s a good vibe here. The first floor has lavish boudoir decor with vintage French foil peacock wallpaper and chandeliers. Ascend to the rooftop and the surrounds are toned down but still glam, with white pillar candles in huge glass encasements, and wood decking adorning the floor and walls. Apart from the candles, there isn’t much light at night — not good if you’re eating but very romantic if you’re on a date. The views aren’t as stunning as some rooftop bars but are still impressive. An informal venue with a high sense of style. Drink and eat The place for cocktails — share a “Big Cock” (a sharing jug) of the Majestic Taj (a refreshing peachy twist with gin and iced tea) or the harder-hitting Calibri Rojo (a fruity tequila concoction with basil and vanilla). Food includes tapas such as pan-fried saganaki with lemon sorbet, or pizzas. Try the Urban Chick topped with chicken, spinach, fior de latte, almonds and garlic-infused mushrooms — a delicious stinker but best avoided if you’re out to impress. Flash tapas on the Yarra Sotano (Hilton Melbourne South Wharf; sotano.com.au) Open: Mon-Sun, noon-late Spain’s culinary influence is all too evident here, with a 2500-bottle wine cellar suspended from the ceiling and a 4.4-metre-tall charcuterie tower packed with cured meats and cheeses. There’s an outside area overlooking the Yarra. It has high tables, red bar stools and white pillar candles in rusty holders — all very cool. The drinks and food are deconstructed wonders; mixologist Grant Collins has worked his magic to give the cocktails a modern, molecular twist. Sotano isn’t a budget night out but quality is outstanding. Drink and eat The twisted white or red sangria (Collins invented a raspberry puree sphere that sits at the bottom of the jug and slowly disperses, giving a fruity kick from beginning to end), any of the alcoholic granitas or Collins’ new sherry cocktails — the perfect accompaniment to the sharing boards of melt-in-the-mouth iberico ham and salami. There’s modern tapas such as potato crisps with truffle honey, or braised bull tail with white pearl onion. Look out for the paella pans that will be al fresco this summer. Underground cool, overground Match Bar & Grill (249 Little Lonsdale Street; matchbar.com) Open: Mon-Thurs, 4pm-late; Fri-Sat, 3pm-late (opening for lunch daily and on Sundays noon-midnight at the end of February) Match has an outside decking space overlooking the State Library and Swanston Street. Most of its walls are glass so at night, you’re treated to an illuminated vista. Graffiti and posters adorn the walls and all interior pieces were gathered from various London clubs — 1970s retro chic mixed with modern Melbourne cool. Drink and eat Summer buckets — retro holders such as glass goblets and champagne buckets, filled with innovative cocktails — get the girls around. There’s also an Enomatic wine system, aka the wine tunnel, a constantly changing selection of whites and reds all twinkling at you. Buy credit and off you go. You get a generous taster for $3, or buy a full glass; someone will be on hand to answer questions. Match also serves wines selected by Matt Skinner. Much of the bar and restaurant food intermingle — wagyu bresola; Parisian burger served with bone marrow and gruyere cheese; and Valrhona chocolate fondant. It’s bar- raising bar food by chef Paul Wilson. Beer lovers unite The Local Taphouse (184 Carlisle Street, St Kilda East; thelocal.com.au) Open: Noon-1am, daily The Local has a welcoming atmosphere. Downstairs, there’s wooden furniture and comfy sofas but it’s upstairs that it comes into its own, with wooden wall panelling, books and wooden tram-car seating. The room opens on to a simple rooftop terrace with exposed brick. The star of this show though is the beer. The tap list is changed regularly (sometimes daily) and features an international mix with a strong Australia/Victoria preference. If you’re unsure, grab the beer book that will tell you all you need to know, or ask the knowledgeable staff. Drink and eat If you want to try a few of the speciality brews then go for the tasting panel — it showcases five beers, with some crackers to cleanse the palate. There’s seasonal, hearty fare with a cooking-with-beer slant. Try the meatballs cooked with a German smoked beer, or the chocolate mousse made with a double-chocolate stout. Cocktails with a view Campari House (23-25 Hardware Lane; camparihouse.com.au) Open: Restaurant 11am-11pm, Mon-Fri; 8am-11pm, Sat-Sun; rooftop noon-11pm, Sun-Wed; noon-12.30am, Thurs-Sun Campari Bistro was an institution that closed five years ago. New owners refurbished the building, adding two levels. It retains its name and roots (pasta, breads, infused oils and flavoured salts are made in-house) but has been given a modern twist. There’s a rooftop bar with artificial turf, wooden tables and stools. It’s finding its feet but is worth a look. Drink and eat Campari House’s share plates are a great option if you just want to graze (try the arancini of porcini thyme and goat’s cheese) and there are ‘‘grown-up’’ cocktails such as the Italian Sunrise (Smirnoff Black, Campari and limoncello shaken with orange and sours) to sup on the roof. Spanish sophistication MoVida Terrazza (Level 1, 500 Bourke Street, access via Little Bourke Street; movida.com.au) Open: Mon-Wed, 7am-3.30pm; Thurs and Fri, 7am until late This is a terrace in the true sense of the word. It’s elevated above the street and, with its big, brown umbrellas, is sunny-day heaven. MoVida Terrazza is a more casual little cousin of adjacent diner MoVida Aqui (see page 7 for a review). While sunning on benches or nibbling tapas at high tables, customers get a knockout view of the century-old dome of the law courts. It’s a vantage point of an oft-forgotten landmark. Drink and eat Mediterranean and Spanish nibbles and meals are on offer for breakfast, lunch and supper (Thurs and Fri). The lunch menu has a choice of bocadillo (Spanish bread) with several fillings, salads or light dishes. Try the tortilla ($3) and ensalada (salad) of fig, green beans and manchego cheese ($13). Beer is on tap and bottled ($8 for top Barcelona drop Moritz). Wine by the glass ($6.50-$9).

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NATAGE G012

12 EPICURE THEAGE Tuesday, February 2, 2010

Lazydays inthesunNikkiHaynesdiscoverswateringholesofferingachancetocatchlatesummer’srays.

Oldies but goodies

Siglo Level 2 (above theMelbourne Supper Club),161 Spring Street,9654 6300;theeuropean.com.au

Madame Brussels63 Bourke Street,9662 2775;madamebrussels.com

Red Hummingbird1st Floor, 246 RussellStreet, 9654 2266;theredhummingbird.com

Belgian Beer CafeBluestone 557 St KildaRoad, 9529 2899;belgianbeercafemelbourne.com

MoVida Terrazza, at 500 BourkeStreet, is perfect for sun-seekers.

PICTURE: EDDIE JIM

On hot days, there’s plenty of cold comfort at (left) the Local Taphouse at St Kilda and MatchBar & Grill in the city. PICTURES: GARY MEDLICOTT, SIMONE STABB

NEXT GENERATION

THE sun is still shining andyou want to be outsidehaving a drink with yourfriends but you’re tired ofthe rooftops and beer

gardens where you hung out lastyear. Luckily, you’re in Melbourne, acity with a constantly evolving barand restaurant scene. Here are someexciting additions.

For strutting your stuff

Emerald Peacock (233 LonsdaleStreet; theemeraldpeacock.com)Open: Mon-Wed, 4pm-midnight;Thurs-Fri, 4pm-1am; Sat, 6pm-1am

Located on the site of a formerBuddhist centre, there’s a good vibehere. The first floor has lavishboudoir decor with vintage Frenchfoil peacock wallpaper andchandeliers. Ascend to the rooftopand the surrounds are toned downbut still glam, with white pillarcandles in huge glass encasements,and wood decking adorning the floorand walls.

Apart from the candles, there isn’tmuch light at night — not good ifyou’re eating but very romantic ifyou’re on a date.

The views aren’t as stunning assome rooftop bars but are stillimpressive. An informal venue witha high sense of style.Drink and eat The place for cocktails— share a “Big Cock” (a sharing jug)of the Majestic Taj (a refreshingpeachy twist with gin and iced tea) orthe harder-hitting Calibri Rojo (afruity tequila concoction with basiland vanilla). Food includes tapassuch as pan-fried saganaki withlemon sorbet, or pizzas. Try theUrban Chick topped with chicken,spinach, fior de latte, almonds andgarlic-infused mushrooms — adelicious stinker but best avoided ifyou’re out to impress.

Flash tapas on the Yarra

Sotano (Hilton Melbourne SouthWharf; sotano.com.au)Open: Mon-Sun, noon-late

Spain’s culinary influence is all tooevident here, with a 2500-bottle winecellar suspended from the ceilingand a 4.4-metre-tall charcuterie towerpacked with cured meats andcheeses. There’s an outside areaoverlooking the Yarra. It has hightables, red bar stools and white pillarcandles in rusty holders — all verycool. The drinks and food aredeconstructed wonders; mixologistGrant Collins has worked his magicto give the cocktails a modern,molecular twist.

Sotano isn’t a budget night out butquality is outstanding.Drink and eat The twisted white orred sangria (Collins invented araspberry puree sphere that sits atthe bottom of the jug and slowlydisperses, giving a fruity kick frombeginning to end), any of thealcoholic granitas or Collins’ newsherry cocktails — the perfectaccompaniment to the sharingboards of melt-in-the-mouth ibericoham and salami.

There’s modern tapas such aspotato crisps with truffle honey, orbraised bull tail with white pearlonion. Look out for the paella pansthat will be al fresco this summer.

Underground cool, overground

Match Bar & Grill (249 LittleLonsdale Street; matchbar.com)Open: Mon-Thurs, 4pm-late;Fri-Sat, 3pm-late (opening for lunchdaily and on Sundays noon-midnightat the end of February)

Match has an outside decking spaceoverlooking the State Library andSwanston Street.

Most of its walls are glass so atnight, you’re treated to anilluminated vista. Graffiti and postersadorn the walls and all interior pieceswere gathered from various Londonclubs — 1970s retro chic mixed withmodern Melbourne cool.Drink and eat Summer buckets —retro holders such as glass gobletsand champagne buckets, filled withinnovative cocktails — get the girlsaround. There’s also an Enomaticwine system, aka the wine tunnel, aconstantly changing selection ofwhites and reds all twinkling at you.Buy credit and off you go. You get agenerous taster for $3, or buy a fullglass; someone will be on hand toanswer questions. Match also serveswines selected by Matt Skinner.Much of the bar and restaurant foodintermingle — wagyu bresola;Parisian burger served with bonemarrow and gruyere cheese; andValrhona chocolate fondant. It’s bar-raising bar food by chef Paul Wilson.

Beer lovers unite

The Local Taphouse (184 CarlisleStreet, St Kilda East; thelocal.com.au)Open: Noon-1am, daily

The Local has a welcomingatmosphere. Downstairs, there’swooden furniture and comfy sofasbut it’s upstairs that it comes into itsown, with wooden wall panelling,books and wooden tram-car seating.The room opens on to a simplerooftop terrace with exposed brick.The star of this show though is thebeer. The tap list is changed regularly(sometimes daily) and features aninternational mix with a strongAustralia/Victoria preference. Ifyou’re unsure, grab the beer bookthat will tell you all you need toknow, or ask the knowledgeable staff.Drink and eat If you want to try afew of the speciality brews then gofor the tasting panel — it showcasesfive beers, with some crackers tocleanse the palate. There’s seasonal,hearty fare with a cooking-with-beerslant. Try the meatballs cooked witha German smoked beer, or thechocolate mousse made with adouble-chocolate stout.

Cocktails with a view

Campari House (23-25 HardwareLane; camparihouse.com.au)Open: Restaurant 11am-11pm,Mon-Fri; 8am-11pm, Sat-Sun;rooftop noon-11pm, Sun-Wed;noon-12.30am, Thurs-Sun

Campari Bistro was aninstitution that closed fiveyears ago. New ownersrefurbished the building,adding two levels. Itretains its name androots (pasta, breads,infused oils andflavoured salts are

made in-house) but has been given amodern twist. There’s a rooftop barwith artificial turf, wooden tables andstools. It’s finding its feet but isworth a look.Drink and eat Campari House’sshare plates are a great option if youjust want to graze (try the arancini ofporcini thyme and goat’s cheese) andthere are ‘‘grown-up’’ cocktails suchas the Italian Sunrise (SmirnoffBlack, Campari and limoncelloshaken with orange and sours) tosup on the roof.

Spanish sophistication

MoVida Terrazza (Level 1,500 Bourke Street, access via LittleBourke Street; movida.com.au)Open: Mon-Wed, 7am-3.30pm;Thurs and Fri, 7am until late

This is a terrace in the true sense ofthe word. It’s elevated above thestreet and, with its big, brownumbrellas, is sunny-day heaven.MoVida Terrazza is a more casuallittle cousin of adjacent diner MoVidaAqui (see page 7 for a review). Whilesunning on benches or nibblingtapas at high tables, customers get aknockout view of the century-olddome of the law courts. It’s a vantagepoint of an oft-forgotten landmark.Drink and eat Mediterranean andSpanish nibbles and meals are on

offer for breakfast, lunchand supper (Thurs and Fri).

The lunch menu has achoice of bocadillo(Spanish bread) withseveral fillings, salads orlight dishes. Try the

tortilla ($3) and ensalada(salad) of fig, green beans

and manchego cheese ($13).Beer is on tap and bottled

($8 for top Barcelonadrop Moritz). Wine by

the glass ($6.50-$9).