the quilt shown is a digital representation. …€¦ · ann lauer for benartex, llc the quilt...
TRANSCRIPT
© 20
15 A
nn L
auer
for B
enar
tex,
LLC
THE QUILT SHOWN IS A DIGITAL REPRESENTATION. ACTUAL FABRIC REPEATS WILL VARY FROM DESIGN SHOWN.
Uses Benartex’s Circle Play collection by Ann Lauer
Finished Size: 60” x 84”
This unique quilt pattern uses prints from our Circle Play
collection. The prints remind us of a mystical
dreamcatcher combined with beautiful greens, purples and blues. Curl up with this quilt
at night and dream some beautiful dreams.
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Beautiful Dreamer
Lap size 60" x 84" Please read all instructions before you begin. Fabric widths are assumed to be a minimum of 42". All strips are cut from selvage to selvage unless otherwise instructed. Sew all seams using a ¼" seam allowance. Finished sizes are approximate due to variations in seams and shrinkage from the quilting process. Press seams gently to prevent distortion.
Overview
Beautiful Dreamer is offered in two color ways, the major difference being the border print. Seven fabrics from the Circle Play collection have been used in this quilt. The fabric colors/numbers listed below are as they have been used in the quilts shown. The fabrics listed in the text refer to the black bordered quilt and the fabrics listed in parenthesis designate the cream bordered version. Refer to the quilt image for fabric placement. Fabric 1 Large circle medallions on texture, jade (large circle medallions on texture, purple) Fabric 2 Large circle medallions on texture, purple (medium teal marble tonal) Fabric 3 Cream tonal circles Fabric 4 Dark purple marble tonal (black multi dotted spirals) Fabric 5 Dark teal marble tonal Fabric 6 Dark jade marble tonal (dark purple marble tonal) Fabric 7 Black multi stripe (cream multi stripe) Additional supplies: 68" x 92" piece of backing and batting
Cutting Fabric 1 Cut 2 – 8 ½" wide strips; subcut (6) 8 ½" squares (for block centers) Cut 2 – 4 ½" wide strips (for side units) Fabric 2 Cut 2 - 9 ¼" wide strips; subcut (6) 9 ¼" squares (for Flying Geese units) Fabric 3 Cut 6 – 4 7/8" wide strips; subcut (48) 4 7/8" squares (for corner and side units) Cut 11 – 2 ½" wide strips (for corner and side units) Fabric 4 Cut 2 – 4 ½" wide strips (for side units) Cut 4 – 2 ½" wide strips (for side units) Fabric 5 Cut 3 – 4 7/8" wide strips; subcut (24) 4 7/8" squares (for corner units)
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Cut 2 - 2 ½" wide strips (for corner units) Cut 8 – 2 ½" wide strips (for binding) Fabric 6 Cut 5 – 2 ½" wide strips (for corner units) Fabric 7 Fussy cut 2 identical 6 ½" x 68" lengthwise strips (see quilt photo, for mitered border) Fussy cut 2 identical 6 ½" x 92" lengthwise strips (see quilt photo, for mitered border)
Construction
1. 4-patch units. Sew a 2 ½" wide Fabric 3 strip lengthwise to a 2 ½" wide Fabric 6 strip. Press the seam toward Fabric 6. Make a total of 5 strip sets. Crosscut 72 – 2 ½" wide A segments. In the same manner, make 2 strip sets using 2 ½" wide strips each of Fabric 3 and Fabric 5. Crosscut 24 – 2 ½" wide B segments. Sew 48 A segments together in pairs to make 24 – 4 ½" x 4 ½" A units. Sew the remaining A segments together with the B segments to make 24 – 4 ½" x 4 ½", A/B units.
Cut 72 A Cut 24 B Make 24 A Make 24 A/B 2. Half-square triangle units. Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of a 4 7/8" Fabric 3 square. Place the square right sides together with a 4 7/8" Fabric 5 square. Sew ¼" away from each side of the drawn line, cut apart on the line, open, and press the seams toward Fabric 5 to yield 2 – 4 ½" x 4 ½" half-square triangles. Make a total of 48 units. Make 48 3. Corner units. Noting orientation and placement, sew a 4-patch A unit, a 4-patch A/B unit, and 2 half-square triangle units together in pairs. Press the seams in opposing directions, then sew the pairs together to make one corner unit. Make a total of 24 – 8 ½" x 8 ½" corner units.
2 !” 2 !”
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Make 24 4. Flying Geese units. Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of 4 – 4 7/8" Fabric 3 squares. Place a marked square right sides together on each of two diagonally opposite corners of a 9 ¼" Fabric 2 square. Sew ¼" away from each side of the drawn lines, cut apart on the lines, then press the triangles open. Place another marked square on each of the 2 units as shown. Stitch ¼" away from each side of the drawn lines, cut apart on the lines, then press the triangles open to yield 4 – 4 ½" x 8 ½" units. Make a total of 24 units. Make 24 5. C and D segments. Sew a 4 ½" Fabric 4 strip lengthwise between 2 - 2 ½" Fabric 3 strips. Press seams toward Fabric 4. Make a second strip set. Crosscut 24 – 2 ½" wide C segments. In the same manner, make 2 strip sets using 4 ½" wide Fabric 1 strips and 2 ½" wide Fabric 4 strips. Press the seams toward Fabric 4. Crosscut 24 – 2 ½" wide D segments. Sew a C segment together with a D segment to make one 4 ½" x 8 ½" unit. Make a total of 24 C/D units. Cut 24 C Cut 24 D
2 !” 2 !”
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Make 24 C/D 6. Side units. Noting placement, sew a Flying Geese unit together with a C/D unit to make one 8 ½" x 8 ½" side unit. Make a total of 24 units. Make 24 7. Noting orientation and placement, sew 4 corner units, 4 side units, and 1 – 8 ½" x 8 ½" Fabric 1 square together into 3 rows of 3 units each. Sew row seams in opposing directions, then sew the rows together to make one 24 ½" x 24 ½" block. Make a total of 6 blocks. Make 6
ASSEMBLY
1. Quilt center. Sew the blocks together into 3 horizontal rows of 2 blocks each. Press row seams in opposing directions, then sew the rows together to complete the 48 ½" x 72 ½" quilt center. 2. Mitered borders. With raw edges aligned, center and pin the 6 ½" x 92" Fabric 7 strips right sides together to each long side of the quilt center (make sure the pattern of the stripe strip is identical on each side). Stitch, beginning and ending ¼" away from each corner, backstitching at each end to secure. Repeat on the top and bottom using the 68" long Fabric 7 strips. (The strips will extend beyond the quilt top at each corner.) 3. Place one corner of the quilt on the ironing board right side up. Position the quilt with the vertical border overlapping the horizontal border.
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4. Fold the vertical border under at a 45º angle. Adjust it until it lies exactly on top of the horizontal border, matching the stripe, and the angle is an exact diagonal from the corner of the quilt to the corner of the border. 5. Press a crease into the fold with the iron. Carefully lift up the vertical border, keeping the miter in place, and pin along the creased line from the corner of the quilt to the outside corner of the border. Open the fabric and be sure the stripes match. Lay a square ruler on the corner and check that the corner is square. 6. Reposition the pins perpendicular to the crease and stitch along the crease, backstitching at each end. Check once again to make sure the miter is accurate, then trim the seam allowance to ¼". Press the seam open. Repeat at each corner.
Quilting
(Take these as suggestions only and then do your own thing.)
1. Outline the circles designs in the large blocks and side units where possible of both colorings and the purple circles in the triangle blocks of the black border variation. 2. Stitch a small allover motif in the cream background areas. 3. Stitch an arc in the dark teal half square triangles of both colorings and in the medium teal triangles of the cream bordered quilt. 4. Outline the corner units surrounding each large block and the jade or teal 2” squares in the four patches. 5. Stitch a motif in the 4 jade or teal 2” squares that come together to form a block. 6. Outline some of the straight lines and some circles in the borders.
Binding
1. Sew the 8 – 2 ½" Fabric 8 (Fabric 5) strips diagonally together to make one long strip. Press the strip lengthwise in half wrong sides together. 2. Align the raw edges of the folded binding with the raw edge of the quilt top. Leave an 8" tail and stitch, using a ¼" seam allowance all the way around, mitering the corners and stopping 8" from the starting point. Use your favorite method to join the ends and finish binding. 3. Bring the folded edge of the binding to the back of the quilt and stitch it in place with a blind hemstitch.
BENARTEX, LLC. • 132 WEST 36TH STREET, 4TH FLOOR • NEW YORK, NY 10018 • T: 212-840-3250 • BENARTEX.COM
Finished Size: 60” x 84”
This chart is a general guide for purchasing yardage and is not intended to be used for cutting kits. Please ask your Benartex sales representative for the final tested pattern before cutting kits.
Beautiful Dreamer uses
BENARTEX, LLC.
SKU Description 1 12 24 36
10060-‐45 Circle Play -‐ Jade 7/8 yd 10.5 yds 21 yds 31.5 yds1 bolt 2 bolts 3 bolts
10060-‐66 Circle Play -‐ Purple 5/8 yd 7.5 yds 15 yds 22.5 yds1 bolt 1 bolt 2 bolts
10061-‐12 Circle Play Stripe -‐ Black/Multi 2-‐5/8 yds 28.5 yds 57 yds 85.5 yds2 bolts 4 bolts 6 bolts
10066-‐45 Marble Tonal -‐ Dark Jade 1/2 yd 6 yds 12 yds 18 yds1 bolt 1 bolt 2 bolts
10066-‐54 Marble Tonal -‐ Dark Teal 1-‐1/4 yds 15 yds 30 yds 45 ydsIncludes Binding 1 bolt 2 bolts 3 bolts
10066-‐66 Marble Tonal -‐ Dark Purple 5/8 yd 7.5 yds 15 yds 22.5 yds1 bolt 1 bolt 2 bolts
10069-‐07 Circles -‐ Cream 1-‐7/8 yds 22.5 yds 45 yds 67.5 yds
2 bolts 3 bolts 5 bolts
BLACK COLOR-WAY
Cream Color-‐way
SKU Description 1 12 24 36
10060-‐66 Circle Play -‐ Purple 7/8 yd 10.5 yds 21 yds 31.5 yds1 bolt 2 bolts 3 bolts
10061-‐07 Circle Play Stripe -‐ Cream/Multi 2-‐5/8 yds 28.5 yds 57 yds 85.5 yds2 bolts 4 bolts 6 bolts
10064-‐12 Dotted Spirals -‐ Black/Multi 5/8 yd 7.5 yds 15 yds 22.5 yds1 bolt 1 bolt 2 bolts
10066-‐50 Marble Tonal -‐ Medium Teal 5/8 yd 7.5 yds 15 yds 22.5 yds1 bolt 1 bolt 2 bolts
10066-‐54 Marble Tonal -‐ Dark Teal 1-‐1/4 yds 15 yds 30 yds 45 ydsIncludes Binding 1 bolt 2 bolts 3 bolts
10066-‐66 Marble Tonal -‐ Dark Purple 1/2 yd 6 yds 12 yds 18 yds1 bolt 1 bolt 2 bolts
10069-‐07 Circles -‐ Cream 1-‐7/8 yds 22.5 yds 45 yds 67.5 yds
2 bolts 3 bolts 5 bolts
CREAM COLOR-WAY
Beautiful Dreamer Lap Jade/Black Border
Beautiful Dreamer Lap Purple/Cream Border