top 10 scotland (eyewitness top 10 travel guides)
TRANSCRIPT
10
TOP 10
YOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING
10
10
Sights in Edinburgh & GlasgowMalt whiskies & where to enjoy themOutstanding golf coursesBest hotels, inns & B&Bs Most fun places for childrenCastles, gardens & lochsLiveliest pubs & clubsIdyllic island retreatsBest restaurantsInsider tips for every visitor
10
10
10
10
10
10
10
10
SCOTLAND
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
Cam
Lochgilphead
G
Stornoway
Port ofNess
Tarbert
Rodel
Kilbride
Mallaig
Craignure
Tobermory
Fionnphort
Armadale
UigTorridon
Kyle ofLochalsh
Fort W
NorthUist
Harris
Isle ofSkye
Mull
Rum
Coll
Tiree
Jura
Islay
Colonsay
SouthUist
Isle ofLewis
Atlant ic
Ou
t er
He
br i
de
sI n
ne
rH
eb
ri d
es
West Coast Islandspp116–123
Highlandpp110–115
Nortpp96
040 40miles km
Scotland Area by AreaThis Top 10 Travel Guide to Scotland is divided intonine areas: the nation’s capital, Edinburgh; theSouthern Uplands; North and East of Edinburgh;Glasgow; North and West of Glasgow; Grampianand Moray; the Highlands; West Coast Islands;and the Far North, including the Orkney andShetland isles. Each area is colour coded; thecolour bands of the chapters correspond to thecolours shown on the maps here. Almost everyplace mentioned in the book has a map reference,which takes you to the maps opening out from the flaps.
Edinburgh skyline from Calton Hill
Glamis Castle
Royal Scots soldiers
St Andrews
Stirling
PeeblesIrvine
Greenock
Ayr
Stranraer
Dumfries
Brodick
mpbeltown
Dunmore
LochearnheadOban
Glencoe
Crianlarich
EastKilbride
Kirkcaldy
Falkirk
Harwick
GretnaGreen
Cumnock
Kilmarnock
Motherwell
Livingston
Dunfermline
Moffat
Selkirk
Melrose
Berwick-upon-Tweed
Crathie
Forres
Stonehaven
Forfar
Kingussie
Thurso
KirkwallStromness
Lerwick
Scalloway
Brae
Helmsdale
Lairg
Lybster
Elgin
Huntly
Ullapool
Garve
FortAugustus
Laggan
Aviemore
Scourie
Tounge Wick
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n
Aberdeen
Inverness
Carlisle
William
Dundee
Arran
OrkneyIslands
ShetlandIslands
North Sea
Ocean
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LochDoon
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es
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mpia
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Mountains
CairngormMountains
The Far Northpp124–129
The Far Northpp124–129
ds5
Grampian and Moraypp102–107
th and West of Glasgow–101
Glasgowpp90–95
North and Eastof Edinburghpp84–89
pp78–83Southern Uplands
Edinburghpp68–77
Left Whisky Stills Right Portree, Isle of Skye
Golfer at Nairn
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4
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SCOTLAND
ALASTAIR SCOTT
DK EYEWITNESS TOP 10 TRAVEL GUIDES
2
Contents
Scotland’s Top 10
Edinburgh Castle 8
Royal Mile 10
National Gallery of Scotland 12
Royal Museum and Museum of Scotland 14
Burrell Collection and Pollok Park 16
Glasgow Science Centre 18
Isle of Skye 20
Loch Ness and the Great Glen 24
Glencoe 26
Culzean Castle 28
The Cairngorms 30
Moments in History 32
Scottish Inventions 34
Cultural Events 36
Lochs 38
Munroes 40
Walking Routes 42
Produced by Blue Island Publishing,London
Reproduced by Colourscan, SingaporePrinted and bound in Italy by Graphicom
First published in Great Britain in 2003by Dorling Kindersley Limited80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL
A Penguin Company
Copyright 2003, 2005 © Dorling
Kindersley Limited, London
Reprinted with revisions 2005
All rights reserved. No part of thispublication may be reproduced, storedin a retrieval system, or transmitted inany form or by any means, electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording orotherwise, without the prior writtenpermission of the copyright owner.
A CIP catalogue record is available fromthe British Library.
ISBN 1 4053 0802 8
Within each Top 10 list in this book, nohierarchy of quality or popularity isimplied. All 10 are, in the editor’sopinion, of roughly equal merit.
Co
nte
nts Left Deacon Brodie’s Tavern, Edinburgh Centre Pollok House Right Stirling Castle battlements
The information in this
DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours,
prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use
of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that anywebsite address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value
the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides,
Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL.
3
Island Retreats 44
Castles 46
Gardens 50
Fishing Spots 52
Golf Courses 54
Whisky Distilleries 56
Highland Traditions 58
Attractions for Children 60
Best-Kept Secrets 62
Restaurants 64
Around Scotland
Edinburgh 68
Southern Uplands 78
North and East of Edinburgh 84
Glasgow 90
North and West of Glasgow 96
Grampian and Moray 102
The Highlands 110
West Coast Islands 116
The Far North 124
Streetsmart
Planning Your Visit 132
Sources of Information 133
Getting to Scotland 134
Getting Around Scotland 135
Things to Avoid 136
Health and Security 137
Families, Groups and Special Needs 138
Shopping Tips 139
Banking and
Communications 140
Accommodation Tips 141
Places to Stay 142
Index 152
Co
nten
ts
Left Isle of Skye Centre Pittenweem harbour, East Neuk Right Melrose Abbey
Left Calton Hill, Edinburgh Right Caerlaverock Castle
Key to abbreviations
Adm admission charge payable
SCOTLAND’STOP 10
Edinburgh Castle and the Royal Mile
8–11
National Gallery ofScotland
12–13
Royal Museum andMuseum of Scotland
14–15
Burrell Collection andPollok Park
16–17
Glasgow Science Centre18–19
Isle of Skye20–23
Loch Ness and the Great Glen
24–25
Glencoe26–27
Culzean Castle28–29
The Cairngorms30–31
Top 10 of Everything32–65
SCOTLAN
D’S TO
P 10
6
5
7
8
4
9
Inverness
Torridon
Kyle ofLochalsh
FortWilliam
Irvine
Greenock Alexandria
Ayr
StranraerNewtonStewart
Brodick Prestwick
Campbeltown
Dunmore
Callander
Oban Crianlarich
Inveraray
East Kilbride
Cumnock
Kilmarnock
Kingussie
Lairg
Ullapool
Garve
Stornoway
Port of Ness
Tarbert
Rodel
Kilbride
Mallaig
Lochaline
Tobermory
Fionnphort
Fort Augustus
Laggan
Armadale
Uig
Scourie
Tounge
CulzeanCastle
Glencoe
Isle of Skye
Loch Nessand the Great Glen
Glasgow
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Isle ofMull
Arran
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Scotland has an overwhelming abundance ofnatural beauty, hundreds of castles stand proudfrom its long and turbulent past, and an innate flairfor enterprise and travel has endowed the nationwith artistic treasures from around the world. Theculture remains vibrant today, and there’s much tocelebrate. Here’s a distillation of Scotland’s best.
Previous pages Loch Torridon
Highlights of Scotland
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Burrell Collectionand Pollok Park
An immensely pleasurablemuseum, blending into thesurrounding park and bring-
ing together such curiousbedfellows as a medieval
dining hall and Ming Dynas-ty Buddha (see pp16–17).
Glasgow Science CentreGlasgow’s newest major
museum, and a spellbindingarray of interactive exhibits,visual enthralment and stimu-lation aplenty for minds youngand old alike. Impossible notto be wowed (see pp18–19).
RoyalMuseum
and Museum of ScotlandTwo neighbouringmuseums, oneentirely eclectic, the
other taking on Scotlandfrom prehistory to the 20thcentury (see pp14–15).
Edinburgh CastlePresiding over the
nation’s capital, the castleis Scotland’s pre-eminentsight, a truly inspirationalhistorical and culturallandmark (see pp8–9).
National Gallery of ScotlandAn internationally significant
collection of paintings, from aselect group of early Renaissancemasterpieces to works byRembrandt, Velazquez,Gainsborough, Ramsay andRaeburn (see pp12–13).
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Aberdeen
Carlisle
Dundee
St Andrews
Stirling
Falkirk
Berwick
Peebles
Livingston
Dumfries
Kirkcaldy
Kinross
Harwick
GretnaGreen
Motherwell Penicuik
Moffat
Selkirk
Dunbar
CrathieStonehaven
Forfar
Thurso
Helmsdale
Lybster
Elgin
ForresMacduff
Huntly
Aviemore
Wick
Pitlochry
Perth
TheCairngorms
Edinburgh
North Sea
Spey
Tay
Dee
S o u t h e r nU
pl a n d s
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GlencoeTo Dickens this was “a
burial ground of a race ofgiants”, and, indeed, thereis something ominous inthe raw terrain of this region.It is a magnificent, sublimelandscape, chilled by thehistory of the bloody 1692massacre (see pp26–7).
Isle of SkyeAn island of romantic tales and the
pursuit of royalty, of strange landscapesand formidable mountain ranges, of
castle strongholds and religious com-munities. Skye is a beautiful, wild
and magical isle (see pp20–23).
The CairngormsBird lovers, walkers and
winter sports enthusiasts prayingfor snow all head to the wood-lands, rivers, lochs, mountainsand plateaux of the Cairngorms,the highest landmass in Britain.From ospreys to reindeer toArctic flowers, it’s all here todiscover (see pp30–31).
Culzean CastleA little splash of
Regency gentility andfashion in a land prized for
its wildness. Indeed, thecastle stands proud on a
windswept clifftop, butCulzean is a velvet hand in an
iron glove, and inside all isgiven over to Robert Adam’s
dexterous play with the rules ofClassicism (see pp28–9).
Loch Ness and the Great Glen
Ancient geology scarred Scotland, andthe Great Glen is its deepest cut, a
swath that splits the land intwo. A course of waterruns through this great
valley, forming charismaticlochs, such as notorious
Loch Ness (see pp24–5).
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Dominating the city’s skyline as it has done for over 800years, this castle is a national icon and, deservedly, thecountry’s most popular visitor attraction. Din Eidyn, “thestronghold of Eidyn”, from which Edinburgh takes its name,was the vital possession in Scotland’s wars. Varying roles as royal palace,barracks, prison and parliament have all helped shape this castle, home tothe Scottish crown jewels and the fabled Stone of Destiny.
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The Edinburgh Tattoo, a military pageant, takes place in thegrounds of the Castle in August each year
Edinburgh Castle
Top 10 Sights
1 Gatehouse and Portcullis Gate
2 St Margaret’s Chapel3 Argyle Battery4 Crown Jewels and the
Stone of Destiny5 Royal Palace6 Great Hall7 Mons Meg8 Prison Vaults9 Governor’s House0 Scottish National
War Memorial
The official tours are
wonderful, witty,
informative and free.
Or you can take a
multilingual audio
tour, proceeding in
whatever order takes
your fancy.
It’s rather a limited
choice for food at
the castle: either
The Queen Anne
Café in Crown Square
serving homebakery
or The Castle Café by
the One O’Clock Gun
for fuller meals.
Argyle Battery
• Map M4 • Castle Hill• (0131) 225 9846• www.historic-scotland.net • Apr–Oct:9:30am–6pm daily;Nov–Mar: 9:30am–5pm daily; lastadmission 45 minsbefore closing • ClosedChristmas Day andBoxing Day • Toursevery 30 mins • Adm£9.50; concessions £7;children £2
Gatehouse andPortcullis Gate
The gatehouse was builtin 1886–8 more for itslooks than functionality.The two bronze statuesare of William Wallaceand Robert the Bruce(see pp96–7). The origi-nal entrance was via theformidable PortcullisGate of around 1574.
St Margaret’sChapel
This tiny, charm-ingly simple building is theoldest structuresurviving from themedieval castle.Probably built byDavid I (1124–53)in honour of hissanctified mother,it is still usedtoday, and contains some wonderful stainedglass (right).
Argyle BatteryThe castle’s northern
defence offers spectacularviews. Don’t miss the
One O’Clock Gun,fired here every day except Sundayfrom a great 25-pounder cannon.
Crown Jewelsand the Stone
of DestinyThe UK’s oldest crownjewels have lain heresince about 1615.However, the fabledStone of Destiny hasbeen here only since1996 (see box).
Beam support,
Great Hall
Edinburgh Military Tattoo
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For the Top 10 sights on the Royal Mile – the steep thoroughfarebetween the Castle and Holyrood Palace – see following pages
Stone of DestinyAccording to the myth-ology that surrounds theStone, this is the veryrock that Jacob used as a pillow when hedreamed of angelsascending to heaven(Genesis 28). Forcenturies it was kept in Scone Palace, nearPerth, and used as thecoronation throne forScottish kings untilEdward I invaded in1296 and carried thestone back to England.For 700 years it waskept under the throne in Westminster Abbeyuntil it was returned to Scotland in 1996.
Royal PalaceHere in 1566, in a small panelled
chamber, Mary Queen of Scots gavebirth to James VI, the first king to ruleover both Scotland and England.
Mons MegA cannon of awesome
proportions (below) nowsits outside St Margaret’sChapel. Built in Belgium in1449, it could fire a 150-kg
(330-lb) stone ball over2 miles (3.5 km)
– cutting-edgetechnologyback in theMiddleAges.
Scottish NationalWar Memorial
Here is listed all of Scot-land’s war dead since1914. Exterior carvingsinclude a phoenix, symbolof the surviving spirit.
Governor’s HouseAn elegant and
beautifully proportionedhouse. Alas, it can onlybe viewed from the out-side as it is still reservedfor ceremonial use.
Prison VaultsDuring the 18th and
19th centuries, the vaultswere used to hold Frenchprisoners. Theirgraffiti can still be seen,as can theobjects theymade, such asbone dyes forforging banknotes.
Great HallThe outstanding
feature of this hall is thehammer-beam roof sup-ported on projecting stonecorbels. Take time tostudy all the enchantinglittle carvings. Constructedaround 1500, this is Scotland’s oldest woodenroof and probably itsmost magnificent.
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Plan of the Castle
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Camera ObscuraA great place to start,
as this 150-year old obser-vatory has a roving mirrorthat projects a 360°panorama of the city. It alsodrops you into a world ofillusion and warped imagesto startling effect. d Castlehill• Map M4 • (0131) 226 3709 • www.camera-obscura.co.uk • Nov–Mar: 10am–5pm, Apr–Oct: 9:30am–6pm daily (Jul–Aug: later closing) • Adm
Writers’ MuseumOccupying Lady Stair’s House
(built 1622) and set in a charmingcourtyard, this is the place tolearn about the three great Scotswriters, Robert Burns, Sir Walter
Scott and Robert LouisStevenson, throughportraits, manuscripts andpersonal possessions. d
Lady Stair’s Close • Map N3 •(0131) 529 4901 • www.cac.org.uk• 10am–5pm Mon–Sat (Festival: Sun2–5pm) • Free
High Kirk of St GilesOften incorrectly called a
cathedral, this monumentalbuilding has been a landmarkand a marvel since 1160. Lookfor the bagpiping angel (nearentrance), the exhilarating rib-vaulted ceiling of the ThistleChapel and those ancient tattyflags. d High St • Map N4 • (0131) 2259442 • www.stgiles.net • 9am–7pmMon–Fri; 9am–5pm Sat; 1–5pm Sun; Oct–Easter: 5pm closing every day • Free
Historic and Ghostly ToursA fascinating tour can be
taken of Mary King’s Close, amedieval street sealed up in 1646after its inhabitants died of theplague. Alternatively, choose anadrenalin-pumping ghost tour –evenings are best. Enlighteningand fun. d www.mercattours.com(0131) 557 6464 • www.auldreekietours.co.uk (0131) 557 4700 • www.witcherytours.com (0131) 225 6745
Scottish Story-TellingCentre
A theatre with a wide range ofentertainment, but the insiderthing to do here is enquire aboutthe local storytellers. They holdregular and informal meetings,
Left High Kirk of St Giles Centre John Knox’s House Right The Palace of Holyroodhouse
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Writers’ Museum
High Kirk of
St Giles
The Royal Mile
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For recommended restaurants and pubs around the Royal Mile, see pp76–7
usually in pubs, where anyonecan enjoy the “crack” (goodyarns). Nothing showy or flam-boyant, but real local culture.d Temporarily located at 51 High St • MapP3 • (0131) 557 5724 • www.scottishstorytellingcentre.co.uk • 9am–5pm Mon–Fri • Free
Museum of ChildhoodTeddy bears, rocking horses,
toy soldiers, castor oil and LadyPenelope – childhood memoriescome rippling back inthe minds of adultvisitors. But childrenfind it just as enthral-ling to see whatamused the “oldies”long ago. A remarkablecollection. d 42 High St• Map P3 • (0131) 529 4142• www.cac.org.uk • 10am–5pm Mon–Sat & 12–5pmSun in Jul & Aug • Free
John Knox’sHouse
The best-known littlehouse in Edinburgh, with itsquaint steps up from the street.This was the home of Scotland’sfiery religious reformer, JohnKnox, in 1599. Worth squeezinginto for its antiquity alone. d 43–5High St • Map P3 • (0131) 556 9579• www.edinburgh.org/things • Closed forrefurbishment until summer 2005 • Nodisabled access • Adm
Museum of EdinburghAnother medieval house that
has battled through the centuriesand now houses a specialistlocal collection, comprisingprimitive axe heads, Romancoins and all manner of historicalfinds gathered from the streetsince the Neolithic Age. d 142–6Canongate • Map Q3 • (0131) 529 4143• www.cac.org • 10am–5pm Mon–Sat• Only partial disabled access • Free
Scottish ParliamentSpanish architect Enric
Mirrales’s controversial design of“upturned boats” won the com-petition for a landmark buildingfor the new Scottish Parliament.
Inspired or folly: decidefor yourself. Higher upthe Mile is the old Par-liament House (nowthe Law Courts).d Scottish Parliament Build-ing Information Centre • MapR3 • (0131) 348 6521 •www.scottish.parliament.uk• 10am–4pm daily • Free
The Palace ofHolyroodhouse
The magnificent royalresidence best knownfor love and murder in
the time of Mary Queen ofScots. The state rooms are stillused by the current Queen.Climb nearby Arthur’s Seat inHolyroodhouse for sensationalviews across town and to the hillsand coast beyond. d Map R3 • (0131)524 1120 • www.royal.gov.uk • 1 Apr–31 Oct: 9:30am–6pm; 1 Nov–31 Mar:9:30am–4:30pm • Closes irregularly, socheck in advance • Adm
The Royal MileThe city’s most historic street runsfrom the Castle to Holyroodhouseand contains a bizarre mixture of
the magnificent and the time-weary. Yet it buzzes with charmand surprises. Congested with
street performers during the Fes-tival (see p36), it is a hub of activity
and entertainment year-round.Don’t try to avoid the melee.
Museum of Childhood
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HolyroodPark
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A striking Neoclassical building midway along Edinburgh’s Princes Street,the National Gallery defies you to miss it. Widely regarded as one of thefinest smaller galleries in the world, this collection is a manageable concen-tration of excellence. Housed here are works by the greatest names in Westernart – Raphael, Titian, El Greco, Rembrandt, Rubens and Monet, to name buta few – as well as the most comprehensive array of Scottish masterpieces.While some galleries tend to intimidate, this one is refreshingly intimate.
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National Gallery of Scotland
Top 10 Sights
1 Botticelli’s The VirginAdoring the SleepingChrist Child
2 Canova’s The Three Graces3 Velazquez’s An Old
Woman Cooking Eggs4 Raeburn’s Rev Robert
Walker Skating onDuddingston Loch
5 Poussin’s SevenSacraments
6 Italian RenaissancePaintings
7 Scottish Painters8 Classic Portraits9 The Impressionists0 Playfair’s Building
Throughout the year
a special free bus,
departing from The
Mound, runs be-
tween Edinburgh’s
four principal
galleries, including
The National.
A short walk away
is a cornucopia of
healthy food at
the renowned
Henderson’s Salad
Bar, 94 Hanover St.
The Neoclassical façade
The Virgin Ador-ing the Sleeping
Christ ChildThe painting’s brilliantrange of tones has nowbeen revealed followingcareful restoration. Anunusual Botticelli workfor having been paintedon canvas and not wood.
The ThreeGraces
One of the world’smost famoussculptures, thesisterly trio ofnudes wascommissioned
by the Duke ofBedford in 1815.
Canova has allbut turnedmarble intoliving flesh.
An Old WomanCooking Eggs
Velazquez’ creation of moodthrough strong contrast wasunprecedented in Spain whenhe produced this work in 1618.
Monet’s Poplars on the Epte
• Map M3 • The Mound • (0131) 624 6200• www.nationalgalleries.org • 10am–5pm Fri–Wed,10am–7pm Thu (extendedduring the Festival) • Free except for specialexhibitions
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The Duke ofSutherlandDonations in the secondhalf of the 20th centurysaw the museum blos-som, especially when,in 1945, the Duke ofSutherland presentedthe gallery with 5 Titians,2 Raphaels, a Rembrandtand Poussin’s SevenSacraments. The workshad avoided war damagein London, having alreadysurvived the storm ofthe French Revolutionwhile in the collectionof the Duc d’Orleans.
SevenSacraments
The seven works depict-ing the rites of Christianityevoke grand theatricality;they are considered thefinest pieces by NicolasPousssin, founder ofFrench Classical painting.
Rev RobertWalker Skating
on DuddingstonLochOne of the most cele-brated paintings by aScottish painter. Thefun-loving ministerdepicted is believed tohave been a member ofthe prestigious EdinburghSkating Club.
Scottish PaintersLook for the superb
portraits by Ramsay,Raeburn and Guthrie, andPitlessie Fair painted atthe age of 16 by Sir DavidWilkie. Autumn in Glen-cairn is an outstandingwork by James Paterson.
Classic PortraitsThe pick of the best
must include Rembrandt’sworld-weary Self-Portraitaged 51, Gainsborough’s1777 hit at the RoyalAcademy The HonourableMrs Graham, and VanDyck’s The LomelliniFamily, complete with acapering dog. Anotherfavourite is Wilkie’s TheGreenwich Pensioner.
Playfair’s Building William Playfair chose
a Neoclassical style to linkOld and New Edinburgh.He also built the neighbour-ing Royal Scottish Academyand the two buildingshave recently been joined.
The ImpressionistsOf the 5 Monets here,
A Seascape, Shipping byMoonlight is a rare paletteknife and brush applicat-ion, while Poplars on theEpte (above) is vintageMonet. Degas’ A Groupof Dancers also features.
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main floor
upper floor
Italian Renais-sance Paintings
Works by Leonardo daVinci and Raphael standout. Leonardo’s drawingof Studies of a Dog’s Pawshows his ability to conveya world in a few strokes,while Raphael’s Bridge-water Madonna (right) isalive with tenderness.
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The best and rarest of Scotland’s antiquitieshave been brought together in two treasuretroves. Although they occupy adjacent buildingson Edinburgh’s Chambers Street, they maintainseparate identities: the Royal Museum con-centrates on international artifacts, while themodern Museum of Scotland is dedicated tothe story of this land and its people.
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St Fillan’s Crozier Serving as a badge of
office, this curved handle wasonce mounted on a staff carriedby St Fillan, an 8th-centuryIrish monk, active in Perthshire.The filigree ornamentationexemplifies the level of artistryflourishing 1,200 years ago.
Top 10 Highlights
1 Lewis Chessmen 2 Monymusk Reliquary 3 St Fillan’s Crozier 4 The Maiden 5 Bonnie Prince Charlie’s
Travelling Canteen6 Natural History 7 Miss Crowford’s Shopping8 Egyptian Toy Mouse 9 Egyptian Mummy Cases0 The Buildings
Free guided tours
daily – check at the
main desk.
The museum’s Tower
restaurant (see pp64
& 77) has fantastic
views, or slip round
the corner to The
Elephant House on
21 George IV Bridge
for exotic coffees.
Museum of Scotland
• Map N4 • Chambers St • Royal Museum (0131) 247 4219 • Museum of Scotland(0131) 247 4422;www.nms.ac.uk • 10am–5pm Mon–Sat(to 8pm Tue), noon–5pmSun (for bothmuseums) • Free
The MaidenA grizzly relic to put a
shiver down your spine. TheMaiden (left) was a Scottishbeheading machine, similarto the French guillotine, witha weighted blade thatdescended from on high. Itwas used in the 16th century.
MonymuskReliquary
Reliquaries were contain-ers for storing holy relics.This one is linked to StColumba and Robert theBruce, hero of Bannock-burn (see pp32 & 97). Itdates back to the 8thcentury, and although it’stiny, the craftsmanship isexceptional. It is one ofthe museum’s mostprized possessions.
LewisChessmen
These enchantingivory figures –
an anxiousking, a piousbishop, glumwarriors – were
made by Vikinginvaders in the12th century.
Whale skull, Natural History gallery
Royal Museum and Museum of Scotland
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OrientationCentred on the vastfoyer, which helps youget your bearings, theRoyal Museum isspread over three floors.Wandering the manyhalls can be confusing,so pick up a floor plan atthe ticket desk. TheMuseum of Scotland isincluded on the plan,but its layout is morestraightforward as theexhibits are chronologi-cal, from Levels 1 to 6.
Natural History The blue whale
skeleton is an ever-popular exhibit, while aglance at the poor dodoshows it to have been,not plump and lazy, butrather athletic, in fact.
Bonnie PrinceCharlie’s Canteen
The Prince’s cutlery, cork-screw, bottles, cup, andcondiments set. Picturethe fugitive (see p21) inthe wild with this lus-truous travelling canteen.
Miss Crowford’sShopping
The collection of anEdinburgh typist, whospent her lunch breaksbrowsing for trinkets ofglass, shell and plastic.
Egyptian Mummy Cases
Mummy cases (right), orcartonnages, were madeof linen reinforcedwith resin orplaster and usedto contain theembalmed body.Those ondisplay have in-dividually craft-ed faces andare decoratedwith ancientEgypt’s complexsymbolism of death andthe afterlife. The casesthemselves have alreadysurvived 3,000 years.
Egyptian ToyMouse
It makes you realize howlittle in the world is new.This pull-along mouse ismoulded from brownclay with a stick for atail. As it moves, theunderjaw pivots on pegsand “snaps”, while thetail wags from side toside. A treasured toy, anda mere 3,500 years old.
Key
Ground Floors
First Floor
Third Floor
The BuildingsThe Royal Museum
first opened in 1866 andhas been a city landmark
ever since. Itscavernous interiorand marvellousroof create anextraordinary
feeling of lightand space. TheMuseum ofScotland was acustom-builtadjunct andhas been
heralded as one of themost important buildingsconstructed in post-warScotland.
Royal Museum
Museum of Scotland
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The wealth that Sir William Burrell amassed in hislifetime allowed him to indulge his passion for collect-ing some of the world’s finest art, from a wide rangeof cultures and artistic periods. His hoard (about9,000 items) constitutes one of the greatest private artcollections ever assembled. When he donated it to thecity of Glasgow, it was with stringent conditions onhow it was to be displayed. The result is breathtaking.
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Burrell Collection and Pollok ParkHutton RoomsSir William and
Lady Burrell did notsimply collect art, theyliked to live with it. TheHutton Rooms near theentrance of the Collec-tion include an exactreconstruction of thedining room at theirhome in Hutton Castle,with carved panelsfrom the 15th centuryand priceless tapestries.
Hornby PortalMore than just a doorway,
the portal (left) is almost anentire castle wall of 16th-centuryheraldic carvings, removed fromHornby Castle. It was the largestobject Burrell collected and hasbeen superbly incorporated intothe structure of the building.
Top 10 Highlights
1 Hutton Rooms2 Ancient Civilizations3 Hornby Portal4 Stained Glass Collection5 Tapestries6 Chinese Ceramics7 Oriental Art8 Medieval European Art9 Old Master Paintings0 Pollok House and Park
The Burrell has a
pleasant, if basic,
café, with views
across the
surrounding park.
On a sunny day, take
a picnic and make
the most of the park.
Gallery façade
• Map U2• Pollok Country Park,2060 Pollokshaws Rd,Glasgow • Burrell Collection(0141) 287 2550;10am–5pm Mon–Thu &Sat, 11am–5pm Fri &Sun; Free • Pollok House(0141) 616 6410;10am–5pm daily; closed25 & 26 Dec, 1 & 2 Jan;adm £5; concessions£3.75
Stained Glass CollectionOne of the gallery’s
special surprises is its 600panels of medieval stainedglass. The delight is in the detail for, aside from commonreligious themes, these panels also give a fascinatingglimpse into everyday life in the Middle Ages.
AncientCivilizations
A superb round-up ofartifacts from the Sumerian, Babylonian,Assyrian, Persian, Egyp-tian, Greek and Romancultures. Don’t missthe wicked eye of thecockerel preserved in a Roman mosaic. Bible Tapestry, 16th century
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Burrell and the1983 BuildingSir William Burrell (1861–1958) was a shrewd,wealthy shipowner. Hestarted collecting worksof art and antiquities inearnest from 1916,always with a keen eyeon price. Such were hisdemands for the displayof his collection that ittook Glasgow City nearly20 years to satisfy them.The award-winningbuilding, finished in1983, is now considereda work of art itself.
TapestriesBurrell justly consider-
ed his 150 tapestries tobe the most valuable partof his collection. Theyonce hung in the mostpowerful courts in theworld. Look forthe enchantingBible Tapestry(below) from16th-centuryGermany and theincredible narrative,Scenes from the Lifeof Christ and of theVirgin (c.1450).
Chinese CeramicsChinese ceramicists
are masters in thedepiction of movement,colour and expression.Good examples are theTang dynasty horse (left),stiff with fear, the pounc-
ing lion roof tile and theexuberance ofthe storks on
an enamelledGuan jar. As wellas these greatworks, you’ll see writhingdragons galore.
Oriental ArtThis section covers
an astounding diversityof material, from Chinesejades to Near Easterncarpets. Make sure yousee the humorousJapanese prints, such asShoki The Demon Queller,and the fine CentralAsian embroideries.
MedievalEuropean Art
Art was almost exclusive-ly religious in this period,and the Burrell hasexceptional ecclesiasticalsculptures from Europeanchurches. Equally arrest-ing is a 15th-centuryBook of Hours, made for a Breton lady.
Pollok House and Park
Don’t ignore neighbouringPollok House, which hasone of Britain’s bestcollections of Spanishpaintings and is setwithin a beautiful andextensive park (below).
Old MasterPaintings
The star exhibits areRembrandt’s 1632 Self-Portrait as a moustachedyouth, and Frans Hals’Portrait of a Gentleman(1639), which was Burrell’smost expensive buy.
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Ground Floor
Mezzanine
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This £75-million millennium project is a puredelight. The heart of the centre is the ScienceMall, a glass-sided silver balloon with threefloors of hands-on experiments, demonstrationsand special-effect theatres. Adjacent to this is theworld’s only revolving tower and an IMAX theatreprojecting gigantic 3D films.
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Top 10 Sights
1 Glasgow Tower2 IMAX Theatre3 Planetarium4 Science Show Theatre5 Science Mall One6 The Lab – Hands on Science7 Virtual Science Theatre8 Science Mall Two9 Science Mall Three0 The Buildings Check the foyer
blackboard for the
times/venues of
special events. Some
have limited places,
so get in early.
The Science Mall
café serves adequate
food, and the ice
cream is sensational.
View from across the quay
• Map U1• 50 Pacific Quay• (0141) 420 5010• www.glasgowsciencecentre.org.uk • 1 Apr–31 Oct:10am–6pm (GlasgowTower & IMAX: lastentry 8pm Thu, Fri &Sat); 1 Nov–31 Mar:10am–5pm (GlasgowTower & IMAX: last entry 7pm Thu, Fri & Sat) • Adm: £6.95 (child£4.95) one attraction; £9.95 (child £7.95) two attractions; Add-ons £2.00
PlanetariumWhen the lights go
down, the celestial bodiesappear overhead. A spec-tacular tour unfolds, withindividual constellationsisolated and identified, cul-minating in the whole nightsky over Glasgow beingshown as it is beyond thecity’s light pollution.
IMAX TheatreScotland’s largest film
screen (28 x 20 m / 90 x65 ft) is found here, show-ing both 2D and 3D films,including tele-transportingexperiences such as Intothe Deep, Human Bodyand Everest. Phone for thelatest showings.
Glasgow TowerThe entire 100-m (300-
ft) tower slowly revolvesabout its vertical axis. A lifthastens you to the strato-spheric gallery for an exhi-bition on the future of citydevelopment and unrivalledviews of Glasgow. TheTower experience isweather dependent.
Science ShowTheatre
Science graduates take turnsto give witty and informativedemonstrations. Burninggases, flying projectiles andvarious magical effects areproduced and explained.
Science Centre
Glasgow Science Centre
Van de Graaff generator
The LabHere children get
the chance to sit at labtables and be guidedthrough such formativeexperiments as making
their owntoothpaste.
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Science in the DockWhere is science leadingus, and should we beconcerned? A daring andbrilliant presentationalerts us to a sense ofglobal as well as indi-vidual responsibility. Ananimated theatre presen-tation explores moraldilemmas surroundingissues such as the firstheart transplant and thecloning of Dolly theSheep (see p35). Idealfor all ages; 3rd Floor.
Virtual ScienceTheatre
Don 3D glasses and entera stream of virtual worlds,from the ins and outs ofcar design to trainee sur-gery (not as grizzly as itsounds) and on to a city inSweden that has recreat-ed itself in digital form.
Science Mall Two
Highlights here are: themicroscopy lab, with livefruit flies; the construc-tion area, where youcan build bridges; andthe biotechnology lab,which provides a lookinside your own body.
The Buildings Take time after your
visit to stroll around thebuildings and interactivefountain, and savour theradical design. Also, overthe Clyde you’ll see thederelict docks, once thesite of Glasgow’s formid-able shipping industry.
Science Mall OneHandles to turn, buttons
to press and lots to belearnt about light, energyand our bodily senses. Aspecial area designated forthe very young includes afabulous walk-on piano.
Key
Ground Floor
1st Floor
2nd Floor
3rd Floor
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Science Mall Three
The environment featureshere, and you have tomake global decisions.There’s also a section onthe human organism andopportunities to design ababy or change sex –virtually, of course.
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The product of violent geographical upheavals, the“misty isle” is justly famed for its towering, raggedmountains and wild coastline. Add to these a colourfulpatchwork of crofts (farms), waterfalls, an exceptional whisky,a castle linked to the fairy world and the historicalromance of Bonnie Prince Charlie, and you find on Skyeall the ingredients that best symbolize the Highlands.
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Isle of Skye
Top 10 Sights
1 Aros Centre, Portree2 Portree3 Talisker Distillery4 Dunvegan Castle5 Quiraing and the
Old Man of Storr6 Loch Coruisk7 The Cuillins8 Armadale Castle Gardens
and Museum of the Isles9 Skye Museum of
Island Life0 Island of Raasay
The Aros Centre has
evenings of Gaelic
culture – no hackney-
ed shows but the
best of local talent.
The Sligachan Hotel
is central and does
great bar meals –
good atmosphere and
a play area for kids.
Old Man of Storr
• Map D2 • Aros Centre, Portree(01478) 613649;www.aros.co.uk; free• Talisker Distillery,Carbost (01478) 614308;Easter–Oct 9:30am–5pmMon–Sat; rest of year 2–5pm Mon–Fri; £4 for tour• Dunvegan Castle(01470) 521206; Opendaily; adm £6.50 • Loch Coruisk BoatTrips, Elgol (0800)7313089; Apr–mid-Oct• Armadale Castle(01471) 844305;Apr–Oct: daily; adm £4.60• Skye Museum of IslandLife (01470) 552206;www.skyemuseum.co.uk; Easter–Oct: 10am–5pm Mon–Sat; adm £2
Dunvegan CastleHome to the chiefs of Clan
MacLeod for 1,000 years. Here,you’ll see the Fairy Flag, which,it is said, can rally the “littlepeople” to protect the clan.
Aros Centre,Portree
An exceptional visitorand arts centre, createdby locals with a passionfor their culture. The placeto learn about Skye’s his-tory and places to visit.
Talisker Distillery“The lava of the Cuillins”
is produced at Skye’s onlydistillery, where visitors arewelcomed onto a friendly tour.
PortreePortree (above) is
Skye’s mini capital, withsome excellent shopsand a delightful harbourlined by colourful build-ings. Sailing races andHighland Games are bigevents in summer.
Loch Coruisk
Flora MacDonald’s
headstone
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For great walks on Skye, see following pages
Flora MacDonald“Bonnie Prince Charlie”was pursued relentless-ly by government troopsfollowing his defeat atCulloden. He escaped toSkye disguised as maid-servant to the courageousFlora MacDonald. Shewas imprisoned for thisact. On her release sheemigrated to America,but later returned toSkye, where she died in1790, one of the Prince’sbed sheets providingher burial shroud.
Skye Museum ofIsland Life
Delightfully evocative, thisreconstruction of thatchedcottages, or “blackhouses” (they wereblackened by firesmoke,below), turns back theyears a cen-tury ormore.
Armadale CastleGardens and
Museum of the IslesBeautiful coastal gardenssurrounding the ruinedcastle of clan MacDonald,with a historical archive.
Quiraing and theOld Man of Storr
A fantastic region of cliffsand pinnacles (above), onerocky outcrop gaining thename the Old Man of Storr.
Island of RaasayIts beauty too often
overlooked, Raasay offersland and watersports atits Outdoor Centre, oryou can climb Dun Caanto where Johnson andBoswell, the celebrated18th-century men of
letters, famouslydanced a jig.
Loch CoruiskThe boat from Elgol
passes seal colonies toreach this secret loch, trappedin a bowl beneath the Cuillins,where a prized view awaits.
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Skeabost
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CarbostA87
A87
The CuillinsThis awesome range
rises from the sea to al-most 1,000 m (3,300 ft).The Black Cuillins are achallenge even to sea-soned climbers, but theRed Cuillins are an easierprospect for walkers.
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Walks Around SkyeLeft Old Man of Storr on the Trotternish Ridge Right Elgol
Hill walker in the Cuillins with Loch Coruisk below
Note: always wear appropriate clothing, take supplies of foodand water and check the weather report before setting out
The CuillinsOf the two Cuillin ranges
(the red and the black), the BlackCuillin Ridge is perhaps the mostmagnificent range in Britain, acraggy backbone 8 miles (13 km)long with over 20 peaks classedas munroes (see pp40–41).Traversing this range representsa tough two-day challenge forserious rock climbers. But thereare easier walks in the Red Cuillins(formed from red sandstone),which offer magnificent views.Try a walking ascent of Glamaig(775 m / 2,500 ft), near Sligachan.
Trotternish RidgeA spectacular escarpment
walk, with sections that seem toevoke moonscapes. For an easyday walk, drive from Staffintowards Uig and stop at thehilltop car park. From here, takethe path north and walk to theQuiraing, the area of the bestpinnacles (a 2-mile / 4-km round
trip). For an even better experi-ence, take a tent and walk theentire ridge.
Neist Point LighthouseAnother short walk (only
about a mile / 2 km in total), buta coastal path this time. Take thelovely road to Waterstein on theDuirnish Peninsula and parkwhere the tarmac ends. Fromhere, it is a gentle, relativelylevel stroll to Neist Point Light-house. Great views of the cliff-edged coastline and usuallyplenty of seabirds, as well as theodd seal.
Sligachan to GlenbrittleThis walk passes below the
Black Cuillins and alongside theAllt Dearg Mor river, which hasmany waterfalls. The path isboggy in places but generallygood, and the gradients are easyif walked from east to west(starting at Sligachan). It’s best
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to arrange in advancefor a lift back fromGlenbrittle.
Armadale CastleForest Walks
Skye is not noted forits trees, but theexception is theregion of Sleat, the“garden of Skye”‚ andArmadale Castle inparticular. Aside fromshort walks within the castle’sspacious gardens, a series offorest trails leads up to the OldFarm and the Hilltop Viewpoint.These are lovely leafy trails, andthe peak offers a panoramic vistaover the sea.
MacLeod’s TablesThese two flat-topped
(hence the name) hills on theDuirnish Peninsula are nothard to climb, but there areno paths and the going canbe a bit rough and boggyin the lower reaches.Healabhal Bheag, the slightlytaller southern hill (500 m/1,600 ft), is the easier of thetwo to ascend, and bestapproached from Orbost, tothe east. Splendid viewsfrom the top. It’s about 4miles (7 km).
Dun Caan, Isle of RaasayAnother distinctive flat-
topped hill, this time on Skye’sslender neighbour, the Isle ofRaasay. In 1773 the famousliterary duo, Samuel Johnsonand James Boswell, walked uphere to enjoy the scenery; theyenjoyed it so much, in fact, thatthey danced a jig. Given Johnson’sbulky physique, that would havebeen some sight. Nevertheless,the story illustrates the powerfulallure of Raasay. 3 miles (5 km).
On the path to Loch Coruisk
Fairy GlenOn the south side of Uig
town a small road leads inlandfor 2 miles (4 km) to an area ofknolls, hillocks and dells knownas the Fairy Glen. There aresheep paths among all thesegrassy formations: follow themto wander this enchanted glen. Itis easy to see how the area gotits name, and this is a fine spot
to enjoy a leisurely picnic.
Elgol to Loch CoruiskThis is a long walk:
about 10 miles (16 km). Amap is essential, and a tentadvised (or return by boat –see p20). The coastal track is
rough but delightful, andCamasunery has a finebeach. On the last stage,take great care on The Bad
Step. The destination, LochCoruisk, is divine.
Boreraig and SuisnishThese are two ruined villages
whose inhabitants were clearedfor sheep. The best is Boreraig,accessible by rough walkingfrom Heaste (about 5 miles / 8km). It also has a fine waterfalland pool for swimming. Alter-natively, you can do a round trip(twice the distance) from Torrinand take them both in. The trackis good in places, no more than asheep trail in others.
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To undertake these walks, you will need a large-scale walkingmap. For map recommendations, see p132
A walker on
Skye
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A geological rift split the land from coast to coast, once dividing Scotlandin two. Glaciers deepened the trench and the result today is a long glenof steep-sided, wooded mountains and dark, mysterious lochs. Castles andforts abound, bearing witness to the Great Glen’s strategic importanceand enhancing its dramatic grandeur with intrigue and nostalgia. And,of course, there’s the legendary Loch Ness monster, elusive but irrepres-sible, and still attracting scientific interest – keep that camera to hand.
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For Glencoe, the spectacular region near the southwestern end of the Great Glen, see pp26–7
Loch Ness and the Great Glen
Top 10 Sights
1 Fort William2 Loch Lochy3 Caledonian Canal4 Great Glen Watersports
Park5 Fort Augustus6 Glen Affric7 Urquhart Castle8 Loch Ness9 Inverness0 Fort George
Urquhart Castle
The best way to
experience Loch
Ness is by boat.
Regular cruises leave
from Inverness and
tour as far as
Urquhart Castle.
Quality food upstairs,
good pub below, at
the Lock Inn, Fort
Augustus.
• Map D4 & E3–D4• Aonach Mor Ski Gon-dola, (01397) 705825;Open daily • JacobiteSteam Train (01463)239026; Jul–Sep daily• Jacobite Cruises (Canaland Loch Ness) (01463)233999; Apr–Oct(otherwise limited)• Great Glen WatersportsPark (01809) 501381 • Urquhart Castle (01456)450551; daily; adm £6 • Loch Ness 2000Exhibition Centre,Drumnadrochit (01456)450573; Easter–Sep9am–7pm daily; rest ofyear 9am–5pm daily;open late Jul & Aug;adm £5.95 • Fort George(01667) 462777; 9:30am–6:30pm daily; adm £6
Fort WilliamClose to Glencoe and
at the foot of Britain’shighest mountain, BenNevis (1,343 m; 4,406 ft),this seaside town providesan ideal base for walkers.The scenery is faultless,and almost every directionoffers enticing terrain. Theless active can scale Aon-ach Mor by ski gondola ortake the Jacobite SteamTrain to Mallaig.
Great GlenWatersports Park
A sensitively landscaped centreamong trees on Loch Oich, thesmallest and most secluded inthe glen. Sail, swim, windsurf,canoe, water-ski, fish or shootthe rapids on a raft.
Loch LochyA path on this splen-
did loch’s northern shoreis now part of the GreatGlen Walk and cycleway.Look out for the wonder-ful Cia Aig waterfall onthe road to Loch Arkaig.
CaledonianCanal
An outstanding feat ofconstruction, engineeredby Thomas Telford andconnecting lochs Ness,Oich, Lochy and Linnhe.Watch boats glide pastat Fort Augustus.
Urquhart Castle
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Tales of NessieFirst recorded by StAiden in the 7th century,“Nessie” pops up timeand again. Despite manyhoaxes and faked shots,there’s still a convincingbody of sonar and photo-graphic evidence tosupport the existence oflarge creatures here, andscientific opinion remainsopen. To decide for your-self, visit one of the LochNess Monster Centresin Drumnadrochit, whichpresent the evidence.
InvernessThe “Capital of the
Highlands”, Inverness is abustling shopping centreset below a pink Victoriancastle. The emotivebattlefield of Culloden isnearby and the visitorcentre there revives thissad and poignant event(see pp32–3).
Loch NessWith a depth of al-
most 300 m (1,000 ft)and unusually blackwater, this immenselyatmospheric loch isScotland’s longest at 26miles (42 km). Flanked bymountains, castle andabbey ruins, and severalcharming villages, LochNess is worthy of itsfame. Take the north roadalong its bank.
Fort Augustus A delightful village on Loch
Ness. Take a sunlit evening walkin the grounds of the formerabbey-school built in grandstyle in 1878.
Glen AffricA lovely forest road leads
to this renowned beauty spot.From here, a two-day hike cantake you to the west coast.
Urquhart CastleMagnificently
situated on the edge ofLoch Ness, these ruinswere formerly one ofScotland’s largest castles.A fine tower house stillstands, and the viewsfrom the top are wellworth all the climbing.The visitor centre isstate-of-the-art anddisplays a huge array ofmedieval artifacts.
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Inverness
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Fort GeorgeBuilt in the aftermath
of Culloden on a sandypromontory in the MorayFirth, Fort George (below)is the mightiest artilleryfortification in Britain. It’sstill in use as a barrackstoday, and has only everundergone minor modifi-cations.
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Nowhere else is the traveller confronted so abruptly by the arrestingimpact of Scotland’s mountains. The road twists below the towering bulkof these characterful peaks, sometimes dark and louring, sometimes lightand enticing. This ancient and celebrated pass is also imbued withhistory: cattle rustling, clan feuds and – most notoriously – the “Massacreof Glencoe” in 1692. In summer the area is a favourite haunt of walkersand climbers; in winter it is one of the leading ski resorts.
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Glencoe
Top 10 Sights
1 Glencoe Visitor Centre2 Signal Rock, Glencoe
Memorial and Forest Walk3 Invercoe Loch Walk and
Pap of Glencoe4 Loch Leven5 Views of the Three Sisters 6 Devil’s Staircase7 Glencoe Ski Centre8 Rannoch Moor9 Scottish Sealife & Marine
Sanctuary0 Castle Stalker
Drive (carefully!) the
narrow scenic road
that runs parallel to
the main A82 from
Glencoe Village to
the Clachaig Inn.
The craft shop in
Glencoe village has a
good menu in a bright
and bookish atmos-
phere.The desserts
are delicious.
Rannoch Moor
• Map E3• Glencoe Visitor Centre(01855) 811307; May–Oct: 10am–6pm daily,Nov–Apr: 10am–4pmFri–Mon• Scottish Sealife Sanc-tuary (01631) 720386;www.sealsanctuary.co.uk;Mid Feb–Nov; adm £7.50 • Confectionery FactoryShop (01855) 821277;Open daily• Aluminium Story(01855) 831663; Apr–Sep:10am–1pm, 2–5pmMon–Fri; donations• Glencoe Ski Centre(01855) 851226; Jan–Apr(weekends only) &Jul–Aug; skiing day pass£20; chairlift £4 (Jul–Aug)
Glencoe VisitorCentre
This centre (below) posses-ses a superb exhibition andaudio-visual presentation –allow an hour to take it allin. If you’re walking, a satel-lite weather report for thearea is regularly updated.
Signal Rock,Glencoe Memorial
and Forest WalkA series of enchantingforest trails leads to theSignal Rock lookout, wherethe MacDonalds wouldlight fires to send messagesto other clan members.
Invercoe Loch Walkand Pap of Glencoe
A particularly beautiful loch,especially in May when itsrhododendrons are in fullbloom. Behind looms thedistinctive peak the Pap ofGlencoe, its isolationaffording panoramic views.
Glencoe from Loch Leven
For suggested walks around Glencoe see pp40–43
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The Massacre ofGlencoeHaving signed an oathof submission to WilliamIII in 1692, albeit five dayslate, the MacDonald clangenerously entertainedand billeted 130 govern-ment soldiers in theirhomes for 10 days. Thesoldiers then slaughteredtheir hosts, leaving 38dead. As much as thebrutality, it was the utterbreach of trust thatshocked the nation.
Glencoe SkiCentre
Among the most popularof Scotland’s five skiresorts. All the gearavailable for hire inwinter, and the perfectterrain for snow thrills.
Devil’s StaircaseA tortuous section of
the West Highland Way(see pp42–3), offeringviews to Rannoch Moorand Black Mount. The pathcontinues to Kinlochlevenfor a greater challenge.
Scottish Sealife &Marine Sanctuary
The sanctuary’s rescuedseals can be seen throughunderwater windows, andmany other sea creaturescan be viewed in the aqua-rium. But best of all is theskate and ray pond, whereyou can touch these tameand elegant swimmers asthey glide about.
Rannoch MoorA beautiful but boggy
wilderness, best seenfrom a window of the FtWilliam to Tyndrum train.
Castle StalkerA dreamlike castle,
not open to visitors butmagical to see, rising froman island barely big enoughto contain it (above).
Views of theThree Sisters
By a bend in the mainroad and next to a roaringwaterful is a rocky knollknown as “The Study”, afine viewpoint for this trioof similarly-profiled siblingmountains (below).
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Gualachulain
Glasdrum
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Linnhe
Loch LevenThe drive round this scenic loch
(left and below) is punctuated by aconfectionery factory and an exhibitionon Kinlochleven’s aluminium industry.
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Formerly a rather dull fortified tower house, Culzean (pronounced “Cullane”)was transformed by the architect Robert Adam into a mansion of sumptuousproportions and elegance. The work began in 1777 and lasted almost 20 years,the Kennedy family sparing little expense in the decoration and craftsmanshipof their clifftop home. Culzean – a masterpiece in a land full of magnificentcastles – was gifted to the nation and fully restored in the 1970s. Its groundsbecame Scotland’s first public country park in 1969.
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Culzean Castle
Top 10 Highlights
1 Oval Staircase2 Armoury3 Saloon4 Lord Cassillis’ Rooms5 Eisenhower Apartment6 Picture Room7 Country Park8 Home Farm Visitor Centre9 Camellia House0 Clifftop and
Shoreline Trails
It’s all too easy to
overlook half of
the Walled Garden,
and so miss the
wonderful Victorian
Vinery, where period
species of dessert
grapes are grown
under glass.
Check out the visitor
centre restaurant to
see if their tasty
venison casserole is
on the menu.
Castle façade
• Maybole • Map G3• (01655) 884455• www.culzeancastle.net• Late Mar–Oct: 10am–5pm daily; Nov–Dec:10am–4pm Sat & Sun• Castle grounds:9:30am–sunset daily;• Adm: combined ticketfor Castle and CountryPark £10, family £25; forCountry Park only(including Castlegrounds) £5, family£13.50
ArmouryCountless weapons
cover the walls in concen-trated patterns. The 120blades forming a star overthe fireplace are a fractionof this fearsome arsenal.
SaloonThe most beautiful
room in the castle, with itsbold colours and circle ofwindows overlooking thesea. Louis XVI chairs sitsoftly on Adam carpets.
Lord Cassillis’ RoomsRestored to their late
18th-century décor (below).The vivacious wallpaper isChinese; the four-posterbed late Chippendale.
Oval StaircaseNothing short of per-
fection (below). Ionic andCorinthian pillars swirl abovea strawberry red carpet, litup by an arched skylight.
The Castle and its parkland
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Robert AdamBorn in Kinross-shire in1728, Adam was edu-cated at Edinburgh Uni-versity. His subsequenttour of Italy determinedhis Neo-Classical style,and he went on to set upan architectural practicein London, becoming theforemost designer of hisday. A true workaholic,his fanaticism for detailwas legendary. Adamdied in 1792, the yearCulzean was completed.
EisenhowerApartment
A gift to the US president ingratitude for his support inWorld War II. Not open tothe public, but it can be hired.
Camellia HouseThis impressive
baronial greenhouse(below) is one of over40 lesser architecturalfeatures found dottedaround the grounds. It’sa Gothic home for the
collection ofcamellias.
Home FarmVisitor Centre
No ordinary farm, butmore of a fortified villagewithin the country park,now transformed into avisitor centre and café.
Clifftop andShoreline Trails
The views to the moun-tains of Arran are gloriousfrom these vantage points.Two favourite destinationsare Swan Pond and HappyValley. Free guided tours(about 1 hour) de-part from the visi-tor centre, or go italone.
Country ParkReckoned to be the
most magnificent park inBritain, this coastal swathof woodland, ponds, gar-dens, beaches and clifftopwalks retains the park’soriginal character.
Picture RoomFormerly the High Hall
of the old tower house,this was the first roomAdam transformed, andthe first to be faithfullyrestored in 1972 (below).
Key
Ground floor
First Floor
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Plan of Castle
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The highest mountain massif in the British Isles comprises a magnificentrange of peaks, wild lochs and ancient forests, as well as bird sanctuaries,nature reserves and sports amenities. It is a region of exceptional sceneryand habitats that have not been divided by roads. Activities take place on itsfringe, but the heartland remains open only to those who travel by foot or onskis. It is this relative isolation that makes it so appealling both for the wildlifethat inhabits the region and for the people who thrive on the testing terrain.
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The Cairngorms
Top 10 Sights
1 Aviemore2 Highland Wildlife Park3 River Spey4 Loch an Eilean5 Cairngorm Reindeer
Centre6 Loch Morlich 7 Cairngorm Mountain
Railway8 Strathspey Steam Railway9 Loch Garten Osprey Centre0 Malt Whisky Trail
The Reindeer Centre
offers guided hill
visits daily at 11am.
The place to eat is
the Old Bridge Inn in
Aviemore – innovative
blackboard specials
and tables by the
river in summer.
River Spey
River SpeyScotland’s finest
salmon river and birth-place of whisky, theSpey is a river of darkpools and fast rapids. Itwinds through a richvariety of landscapes:moorland, forest, pas-ture and grainfield.
AviemoreTraditionally a dormi-
tory town for skiers aswell as the jumping-offpoint for touring the regionat any time of the year,Aviemore consists of aconcentration of hotels,guesthouses, bars,restaurants and après-ski(or, indeed, après-anything) entertainment.
Loch an EileanA hidden gem, 5 miles
(8 km) from Aviemore. One ofScotland’s best short walks isalong this loch, nestling belowthe mountains. Its trees aremagnificent, and its crowningglory is an ivy-clad castle.
Highland Wildlife Park
The once-common bison(above), bears and wolvesmay no longer roam wild,but you can find them here,along with otters, pinemartens and wild cats.
Valley in the heart of the Cairngorns
• Map D4–5• Cairngorm MountainRailway (01479) 861261;Open daily• Cairngorm ReindeerCentre, Glenmore(01479) 861228; adm £8• Loch Garten OspreyCtre (01479) 821409;Apr–Aug daily; adm• Strathspey SteamRailway (01479) 810725;Jun–Oct• Highland Wildlife Park(01540) 651270;10am–dusk; adm• Spirit of SpeysideWhisky Festival, www.spiritofspeyside.com• Malt Whisky Trail: open-ing times etc. at www.maltwhiskytrail.com
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Spirit of SpeysideWhisky FestivalA merry May festival inwhich you can view illicitstills and the Customsand Excise ContrabandCaravan, ride The WhiskyTrain, dance a HighlandFling and cook your ownscones against the clock.To the sounds of pipe-bands, the highlight is anopulent whisky dinner.
Malt Whisky TrailThe process of turn-
ing water into the “waterof life” is a vital part ofScottish culture. Half ofthe nation’s distilleries areon Speyside, and the sign-posted “whisky trail” leadsthe way to seven of them(whisky barrels below).
Loch GartenOsprey Centre
Ospreys began breedinghere in 1954, after a 40-year absence. Vigilancehas been necessary to foilegg-collectors, but nowmore than 2 millionvisitors have seen thebirds from this hide.
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Speybridge
Newtonmore
Kingussie
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Strathspey SteamRailway
The train (above) chuffsfrom Aviemore to Broom-hill through a lovelylandscape. On weekendsthere’s a special Thomasthe Tank Engine up front.
CairngormMountain Railway
This new railway takes youalmost to the top of CairnGorm mountain. Theviews are nothing shortof sublime, and at thePtarmigan restaurant youcan enjoy the most ele-vated meal in the country.
Loch Morlich Surrounded by the
wonderful Caledonianpines of Rothiemur-chus Forest, LochMorlich is a circleof tranquil waterat the base ofthe Cairn-gorms.
Cairngorm ReindeerCentre
Britain’s only herd of wild reindeer(above) was introduced to Scotlandin the 1960s. These charminganimals, now numbering 150,roam free and are very friendly.
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Left St Columba Centre Clyde Docks Right Scottish soldiers
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St Columba Founds aMonastery on Iona
In 563 this fiery Irish missionarywent into self-imposed exile onIona (known as the “home ofchristianity” in Europe),and here he foundeda monastery.Columban monkstravelled widely, con-solidating the Chris-tian faith and thusunifying Scotland’stribes into one nation.
Battle ofBannockburn
Facing an English onslaught in1314, the Scots – led by Robertthe Bruce – achieved a dazzlingvictory. By defeating the English,the Scots won back their nationand their pride. Their right toindependence was ratified byPapal bull in 1329, though thewar with England continued foranother 300 years.
Battle of FloddenTo assist France, James IV
invaded England in 1513 and metthe enemy just over the borderat Flodden. In the massacre thatfollowed, 10,000 Scots died,James included, and, as his heirwas still an infant, a power struggleand an era of instability ensued.
John Knox leads theReformation
Scotland was a Catholic countrywhen Mary Queen of Scotsascended the throne. But in 1559,
a revolutionary preacher calledJohn Knox fearlessly denouncedCatholicism and heralded theReformation. Protestantism wasintroduced to Scotland, and for
the next 150 yearsreligious intolerancewas rife.
Union of theCrowns
When Elizabeth I,Queen of Englanddied without an heir,
James VI of Scotland(son of Elizabeth’s
cousin Mary) had the strongestclaim of succession. He wascrowned James I of England in1603, and his court was movedto London. Scotland retained itsparliament and independence,but would now share itsmonarchs with England.
Union of ParliamentsA disastrous attempt to estab-
lish a trading colony in Panamaalmost bankrupted Scotland, andunion with England was necessaryfor economic survival. The Act ofUnion (1707) dissolved Scotland’sparliament and the politiciansmoved south.
Battle of CullodenIn 1745, James VII’s
grandson “Bonnie PrinceCharlie” secretly sailed fromFrance to Scotland to reclaim theBritish throne. He amassed anarmy which fought its way to apanic-stricken London. Short of
Moments in History
Battle of Bannockburn
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Top 10 WritersJohn Barbour (c. 1316–96)
The “father of Scottish poetryand history”. His epic poem isThe Brus (1370).
Robert Burns (1759–96)The national poet whose
worldwide acclaim has titledhim “the bard of humanity”.
Sir Walter Scott (1771–1832)
The first best-selling author,whose novels and poemslaunched a romantic tradition.
Robert LouisStevenson (1850–94)
Best remembered forTreasure Island, this reveredEdinburgh author travelledwidely and died in Samoa.
Sir Arthur ConanDoyle (1859–1930)
Mastermind behind SherlockHolmes. He was born in Edin-burgh and trained as a doctor.
J M Barrie (1860–1937)Born in Kirriemuir, this
novelist and dramatist esta-blished his reputation withthe ever-popular Peter Pan.
Hugh MacDiarmid(1892–1978)
A Drunk Man Looks at theThistle is considered thefinest poem by the “pioneerof the Scottish Renaissance”.
Iain Banks (1954–)Hugely popular author of
The Crow Road, science fictionand psychological thrillers.
Irvine Welsh (1961–)Best-selling cult author of
street culture in Scotland.Made his mark in 1993 withTrainspotting.
J K Rowling (1965–)This publishing phenom-
enon with global fame lived inEdinburgh when she launchedthe Harry Potter series.
their goal, the “Jacobites” lostheart and returned north. TheHanoverian army, augmented byroyalist Scots, slaughtered therebels at Culloden, the last battlefought on British soil.
Industrial RevolutionJames Watt’s transformation
of the steam engine (see p34)heralded the advent of theIndustrial Revolution, which had aprofound effect on Scotland, andGlasgow in particular. The demandfor steam forced every coal mineinto maximum output, and theproduction of cotton, linen, steeland machinery boomed. Glasgowbecame known as “the work-shop of the Empire”.
World Wars andEmigration
Of the two world wars, it wasthe 1914–18 war that claimedthe most lives: 74,000 Scottishsoldiers and almost as manycivilians. In addition to this,between 1901 and 1961, 1.4million Scots emigrated to seekbetter lives elsewhere.
Re-establishment of aScottish Parliament
In a 1997 referendum, the Scotsemphatically voted for the re-establishment of a ScottishParliament. This opened in 1999,returning the political forum tothe heart of Scotland after anabsence of 292 years.
Scottish Parliament
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Rotative SteamEngine: James Watt
(1736–1819)While repairing a workingmodel of a steam engine,Watt noticed deficiencies inits operation and hit upon away to increase its efficiencythreefold. His greatly im-proved engine had radicalconsequences for mechanicaltransport and industrialization.
Tar Road Surfacing: JohnMcAdam (1756–1836)
Having made a fortune in NewYork, McAdam returned to hisnative Ayrshire in 1783 and beganexperimenting with crushedstones and tar. The endeavourcost him his fortune, but Parlia-ment eventually remunerated himand made him Surveyor-Generalof Metropolitan Roads in 1825.
Bicycle: KirkpatrickMacmillan (1813–78)
As a young blacksmith,Macmillan saw a child ridinga hobby-horse and decided tomake one of his own. Heexperimented with pedals andcranks, and in 1840 built the
first bicycle, which heimmediately rode fromDumfriesshire to Glasgow –
a journey of two days.
Continuous Electric Light:Bowman Lindsay
(1799–1862)This prolific inventor devised anelectric telegraph, recognized thepotential for electric welding, pro-posed the first transatlantic sub-marine cable and demonstratedwireless telegraphy through water.However, he is best rememberedas the man who gave us thelight bulb, the first creation ofcontinuous electric light.
Antiseptic: Joseph Lister(1827–1912)The “father of antiseptic
surgery” was workingas house surgeon atthe Edinburgh RoyalInfirmary when heinitiated the procedureof soaking instru-ments and surgicalgauzes in carbolicacid. Results weremiraculous, doingmuch to preventfatal infectionsfollowing operations.
Light bulb
Scottish Inventions
Rotative steam engine
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And 10 MoreLogarithm TablesJohn Napier spent 20
years divising his ingenioussystem (1594) for multiplyingand dividing large numbers.
MackintoshCharles Mackintosh gave
his name to the rubberizedwaterproof material hedeveloped in 1823.
LawnmowerA “mechanical reaper”
was how the Reverend PatrickBell described the lawnmowerhe invented in 1826.
Fax MachineAlexander Bain created
the first machine capable ofmaking facsimiles of originaldocuments in 1843.
Anaesthetics inMidwifery
Sir James Young, the founderof modern gynaecology, firstintroduced ether, then chloro-form as anaesthetics inmidwifery in 1846.
LinoleumThis revolutionary floor
covering was first producedby Frederick Walton in 1860.
Colour PhotographyThe physicist James C
Maxwell produced the world’sfirst photograph with threecolours in 1861.
Pneumatic TyreUnprecedented comfort
on rough roads was achievedin 1887, with John Dunlop’sfirst air-filled tyre.
Thermos FlaskDesigned for storing cold
gasses, Sir James Dewar’svacuum flask (1892) sooncame into everyday use.
Wave EnergyIn 1973, Stephen Salter
devised a system to generateelectricity from sea waves.
Telephone: AlexanderGraham Bell (1888–1946)
Bell trained as a teacher of thedeaf before being appointedProfessor of Vocal Physiology inBoston, where he came up withthe telephone prototype. “Yes,Alec, it is I, your father speaking”were some of the first telephonicwords uttered.
Television: John LogieBaird (1888–1946)
Ill-health dogged Baird, but it alsoallowed him time to conduct re-search. Without financial support,he built a television apparatusfrom scrap materials and gavethe first demonstration in 1926.
Penicillin: AlexanderFleming (1881–1955)
In 1928, a chance observation ofa mould culture redirected Flem-ing’s experimentation with anti-biotics and led to his discoveryof penicillin.
Radar: Sir Robert Watson-Watt (1892–1973)
Whilst working at the NationalPhysical Laboratory, Watson-Watt developed a short-waveradio system that could locateaeroplanes. He called it “RadioDetection And Ranging”. In 1940,he became scientific adviser tothe Air Ministry, and radar quicklyproved its value in World War II.
Dolly the Cloned Sheep:Roslin Institute (1997)
Cloning – producing an identicalorganism from a single cell ofone “parent” – has been used tomanipulate plant life for centuries.In 1997, scientists at Edinburgh’sRoslin Institute produced thefirst successfully cloned mammal,Dolly, propagated from a singleudder cell of a sheep.
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Edinburgh Inter-national Festival,
Fringe & Military TattooThe greatest extravaganzaof music, drama, danceand opera on the planet.The Festival lays on theworld’s most prestigiousperformers, while thethousand-show Fringe bringsthe unknown and avante-garde. The massive spectacle ofthe castle’s Military Tattoo is aswelling moment of national prideand vitality – a highly charged affair.d Festival: 11–31 Aug (approx); (0131) 4732010; www.eif.co.uk • Fringe: 4–26 Aug(approx); (0131) 226 0026; www.edfringe.com • Tattoo: 2–24 Aug (approx); (0131)225 1188; www.edintattoo.co.uk
Glasgow Jazz FestivalA jamboree that swamps the
city with devotees of jazz and sup-plies top international musicians.Venues range from theatres topubs, clubs and ad hoc stages. d End of Jun and first week of Jul• www.jazzfest.co.uk
Celtic ConnectionsThe world’s largest
festival of Celtic music,with performers fromas far afield as Mongoliaand the Cape VerdeIslands, as well as theScots, Irish and Bretons.
d Venues throughout Glasgow• Mid-Jan–early Feb • (0141) 353 8000
Edinburgh InternationalBook Festival
Charlotte Square (see p69) playshost to this annual showcase ofliterary talent, bringing togetherthe best-selling and most criticallyacclaimed authors for readings,debates and signing sessions. d 12–28 Aug (approx)• (0131) 228 5444• www.edbookfest.co.uk
Edinburgh InternationalFilm Festival
Established in 1947, the festivalnow comprises four categories:world premieres, young Britishtalent, film study and a majorrestrospective. d Filmhouse (MapL4), plus other venues • Mid- to late Aug • (0131) 229 2550 • www.edfilmfest.org.uk
Edinburgh InternationalScience Festival
Successfully combining educationwith entertainment in venues rightacross the city. The programmeincludes exhibitions of the latestscientific advances and demon-strations of tomorow’s gadgets,as well as a platform for seriousdebate. d Early to mid-Apr • (0131) 5587666 • www.sciencefestival.co.uk
Cultural Events
Edinburgh Book Festival
Jazz Festival
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Top 10 RiotousEvents
Hogmanay, EdinburghTHE PARTY! Crowds pack
Princes Street (ticket only)and the castle is lit up byfireworks (31 Dec).
World Pipe BandChampionships
Astonishing sights and soundsas 3,000 pipers play on Glas-gow Green (mid-Aug).
Glasgay One of the UK’s largest
gay and lesbian festivals(1–14 Nov approx, Glasgow).
Royal Highland ShowCelebrating the biggest,
best and most cultivated in thefarming world (Jun, Edinburgh).
Edinburgh InternationalJazz & Blues Festival
A rival to Glasgow’s, this isthe capital’s own festival ofcool music (late Jul/early Aug).
SpeyfestThe best folk and traditional
music performers gather atFochabers (between Elgin andBuckie, Map C5) in early Aug.
Up Helly AaAn incredible fire festival.
Men dress as Vikings andburn a replica longboat. (lateJan, Shetland).
Gig on the GreenAll-day rock concert on
Glasgow Green with a star-studded line up (mid/late-Aug).
Borders RugbySevens
Skill, passion and mud. Inrugby’s heartland, each bordertown takes a day as host(Apr/May).
The Ba’, KirkwallWild ball game and free-
for-all played in the town’scrowded streets (Kirkwall,Orkney, 1 Jan).
T in thePark
Sponsored bythe breweryTennents (hencethe T), this isScotland’sbiggest annualrock concert.The fields ofKinross are
smothered in tents, while thebands get to perform in a giantcastle of a marquee. d Map F5• Mid-Jul • www.tinthepark.com
St Magnus FestivalThe beautiful Orkney islands
have worked hard to create afestival of exceptional quality.Events usually include at leastone world premiere of eithermusic or drama, and some of theworld’s best musicians. Timed formidsummer, the festival usesOrkney’s remarkable landscapeto striking effect. d Orkney • LateJun • www.stmagnusfestival.com
Shetland Folk FestivalThese islands are the heart-
land of Scottish fiddle-playing, andthis festival not only showcasesthe prodigious home-growntalent but also attracts the bestfrom far afield. d Shetland • April• www.shetland-tourism.co.uk
Lanimer DayBased on the annual custom
of walking the town’s boundaries(which started in 1140), thisfestival has developed into aweek of fun events andfairground thrills. The highlight isthe long parade of decoratedfloats, usually covered inthousands of paper flowers, andchildren dressed in outlandishcostumes. A great communityatmosphere prevails. d Lanark• Early Jun • (01555) 661661
Science Festival
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For all manner of useful information about lochs within theTrossachs and Cairngorms, check out www.JustOutstanding.co.uk
Loch TroolAn enchanting loch within a
forest, in a very much overlookedcorner of Scotland, characterizedby its stunning wilderness. Theloch is bordered by walks, whichform part of the long-distanceSouthern Upland Way (see p42).At the eastern end there’s amemorial to King Robert theBruce. d Map H4
Loch SkeenThe hidden treasure at the
end of an utterly magical walk,Loch Skeen is a tiny loch high upin moorland hills. The walk to itclimbs steeply alongside thespectacular Grey Mare’s Tailwaterfall (note that it’s danger-ous to leave the path en route).The visitor centre, situated nearthe falls, has a CCTV on aperegrine falcon nest. d Map G5
Loch LomondThe largest surface of fresh
water in Scotland, Loch Lomond’sbeauty is celebrated in literature,song and legend. Now thecountry’s first National Park, inconjunction with the Trossachs,the loch is revered for its islands,lofty hills and shoreside leisurefacilities. d Map F4
Loch KatrineFamous as the inspiration
for Sir Walter Scott’s Lady of theLake, this loch is the pearl of thearea known as the Trossachs.Now incorporated into theNational Park with Loch Lomond,it is sheer tranquillity comparedwith the other’s bustle. Themust-do here is to take a boattour – the SS Sir Walter Scott(naturally) has been doing the jobfor over a century. d Map F4
Loch AweA long sliver of a
loch, twistingsinuously throughforested hills. Themagnificent ruins ofKilchurn Castle (begun1440) stand at oneend and testify to thestormy past of clanCampbell. Take thesouthern road for thebest scenery, anddon’t be in a hurry.Close by is the de-funct but preservedBonawe Iron Foundry.d Map F3 Loch Katrine
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Loch TummelThis small loch, with its
shimmering brilliance, was afavourite of Queen Victoria, andyou can stand at her preferredspot on the north side atQueen’s View. The vista to thedistant peak of Schiehallion issplendid, complemented inautumn by sweeps of colourfulforest. Take the southern road tofind the best picnic spots by theloch, and don’t miss the rivergorge walks at nearbyKilliecrankie. d Map E4
Loch MorarThe rival to Loch Ness, Loch
Morar is Scotland’s deepest loch(over 300 m/1,000 ft), and haslong had its own legend of amonster – Morag (apparentlyidentical to Nessie). Morar iseasy to get to but little visitedbecause its shores are largelyinaccessible to cars, whichmakes it all the more delightfulfor walking. Nearby arespectacular beaches – the WhiteSands of Morar. d Map E3
Loch NessProbably Scotland’s most
charismatic loch, this deep bodyof water is a major draw becauseof the scenic splendour of theGreat Glen, Urquhart Castle andthe as-yet-unexplained sightingsof monster Nessie (see pp24–5).d Map D4
Loch TorridonA magnificent sea loch that
is reminiscent of a Norwegianfjord. The wall of red sandstonemountains to its north attractshill walkers by the score, andfrom the summits you can seeall the way from Cape Wrath toArdnamurchan. A lovely one-waywalk takes you from Diabeg toInveralligin, with a series of
refreshing lochans (small lochs)in which to swim if theweather’s hot. d Map D3
Loch MareeYou’ll pass this loch if you
visit Inverewe Gardens (seep51). Wonderfully situatedamong imposing mountains,Loch Maree is a revered fishingloch by a nature reserve. Reddeer occasionally swim out tothe group of wooded islands inthe centre and make temporaryhomes there. d Map C3
Loch Tummel
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Ben NevisBritain’s highest mountain
at 1,343 m (4,410 ft). A long,winding path takes you up to thetop. The summit is seldom clearof cloud, but if you strike it luckyyou’ll enjoy unsurpassed views.In poor visibility take great careon the summit ridge as it’s easyto lose the path, which borders aprecipice. d Map E3
Ben MacduiBritain’s second-highest
mountain, at 1,309 m (4,295 ft),is best climbed from theCairngorm Ski car park. Reachedby a high-altitude plateaucovered in sub-arctic flora, itoverlooks the magnificent LairigGhru, a deep rift dividing theCairngorm range. d Map D5
Ben LomondRising proudly from the
wooded banks of its namesakeloch, Ben Lomond’s tall massdominates the panorama. One of
the smallest munroes at 973 m(3,192 ft), it has a well-usedtrack, which is steep in places.Tremendous views over the LochLomond and Trossachs NationalPark. Best to start at Rowar-dennan, where there’s a hoteland hostel. d Map F4
Ben VorlichA great one to start with as
there’s nothing complicatedabout this hill, which overlooksLoch Earn, always bustling with
boat activity. Take thesouthern road and startfrom Ardvorlich. From thetop (985 m/3,232 ft) theviews to the Breadalbanemountains are glorious.And it doesn’t take longto get down for tea in StFillans. d Map F4
Ben CruachanA grouping, in fact, of
seven peaks overlookinglochs Awe and Etive. Thehighest is 1,124m (3,688 ft)
Definition of a MunroAny Scottish summit over 3,000 ft
(approx. 900 m) is called a“munro” after Sir Hugh Munro,who published a list of them in
1891. There are 284 munroes, and“munro-bagging” is a popularpastime. Most can be walked
safely without climbing skills, butit is vital to plan well, be properlyequipped and competent in mapreading. Conditions can deteri-
orate rapidly at any time of year.
Munroes
Ben Nevis
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and because thissummit is con-siderably taller thanany other mountainin the area, BenCruachan enjoyssome of the mostextensive views inthe country. Thename “Cruachan”comes from the warcry of the clan Camp-bell. d Map E3
The Five SistersA superb range of mountains
with five prominent peakstowering above Glen Shiel in theWest Highlands. If you start atthe highest part of the main road(A87) you save yourself an hour’sclimbing. Once you’re on thesummit ridge it’s a long series ofundulations, but you feel on topof the world and can see theCuillins on Skye. d Map D3
Buchaille Etive MorThe “Great Shepherd of
Etive” (954 m/3,129 ft) stands asguardian to the eastern entranceto Glencoe. As an introduction toa place of legendary beauty, thiswild mountain could not be im-proved. Approached from thesouthwest it can be climbed easily,but its magnificent crags demandconstant respect. d Map E3
SchiehallionA much-loved mountain
between lochs Tay and Rannoch,Schiehallion is most easilyclimbed from the pretty roadconnecting Aberfeldy with TummelBridge. An easy and rewardingmunro with which to launch yourbagging campaign. d Map E4
LiathachYou could pick any of the
famous Torridon mountains and
guarantee not to be disappointed,but this is a beauty. A massivemound of red sandstone toppedwith white quartzite, Liathachhas distinctive parallel bands ofescarpments. At 1,053 m (3,456ft) this is a relatively difficult andstrenuous mountain to climb, butworth every bit of effort. d Map D3
Ben HopeThe most northerly munro,
with its neighbour, Foinaven.Rising starkly from the woodsand moorland around Loch Hope,Ben Hope (927 m/ 3,040 ft) hasclear views to the Orkneys. Theonly difficulty in climbing is thescree and rocky terrain, but thisis a prestigious mountain to haveunderfoot. d Map B4
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The best maps for walkers are the widely available OrdnanceSurvey Landranger and Explorer series (www.ordsvy.gov.uk)
Southern Upland WayThe longest walking route in
Scotland, and a wonderful mixof mountain, moor,forest, loch andpasture. It crossesthe country fromPortpatrick in the west toCockburnspath in the east –the preferred direction if youwant the wind at your back.d Map H3–F6 • 212 miles (340 km) • 15–20 days • www.southernuplandway.com
West Highland WayThe first long-distance route,
and still the most popular. Con-necting Fort William and Glasgow,it winds past the Nevis and Glen-coe ranges, crosses RannochMoor and skirts around everyother mountain it can find.Stunning scenery, but ratherclose to the main road in parts.d Map E3–F4 • 95 miles (150 km) • 7–10days • www.west-highland-way.co.uk
Speyside WayBordering one of
Scotland’s most pictur-esque rivers, this pathtakes you from theCairngorms to Moray’scoast (with spurs toDufftown and Tomin-toul). It is a walk fullof interest, with distil-leries galore, bridges,stately homes and arich abundance of wild-life. d Map D4–C5 • 66miles (105 km) • 4–6 days • www.moray.org
Great Glen WayThe newest route to open
and the one that probably packsin more dramatic scenery permile than any other. The
walk connects Fort Williamwith Inverness. The southern
half offers easier gradientsalong the banks of lochsLochy and Oich. After FortAugustus it climbs high
above Loch Ness – if that doesn’ttake your breath, the views will.d Map D4–E3 • 73 miles (117 km)• 4–7 days • www.greatglenway.com
Border Abbeys WayA circular route that com-
bines historical interest with theirresistible appeal of the gentleBorders landscape, with itsrounded hills, rivers and forests.The track connects the four mag-nificent abbeys of Kelso, Melrose,Dryburgh and Jedburgh. d MapG5–6 • 65 miles (105 km) • 4–5 days • www.borderabbeysway.co.uk
Walking Routes
Landscape from Scott’s View, near Melrose
Speyside
footpath sign
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One day this walk willconnect the famous Tay andForth Bridges. Currently it runsfrom North Queensferry, nearDeep Sea World, to the EastNeuk, taking in views across theFirth of Forth to Edinburgh, aswell as the enchanting fishingvillages of Earlsferry, Elie, CrailPittenweem and Anstruther.d Map F5 • 45 miles (72 km) • 3–4 days• www.fifecoastalpath.com
Cateran TrailThe Caterans, brigands and
rustlers, roamed this area in theMiddle Ages. Starting in Blair-gowrie’s soft-fruit hills, thiscircular route wends to the wildmountains of Glenshee, returningvia beautiful Glenisla, offeringsome of the best of Perthshire.A quieter trail than most. d MapE5 • 60 miles (96 km) • 5 days• www.caterantrail.co.uk
St Cuthbert’s WayThe only cross-border route
in Scotland. It starts in the abbeytown of Melrose and ends on theamazing island of Lindisfarne(England). Not too strenuous awalk and a lovely mix of pasture,woodland, moor and coastal scen-ery. Check the tides for the lastmile. d Map G5–6 • 62 miles (100 km) • 4 days • www.stcuthbertsway.co.uk
Formantineand Buchan
WayAn easy route – it’scompletely flat –along an old railwayline. It extendsnorth from Dycethrough the fertilerolling farmland ofBuchan to the busyfishing port ofFraserburgh. d MapD6–C6 • 54 miles (86 km)
• 4–5 days • www.buchan.org.uk
Cowal WayIf you like things a little
wilder, try this one. The route isonly partially marked, so take agood map. Start on the coastwest of Glasgow at Portavadieand cross the hills to Glendaruel,Strachur and Arrochar. d Map F3 • 47 miles (75 km) • 6 days • www.aboutargyll.com
Walking RoutesAside from national long-distanceroutes, there is a vast network oflocal footpaths, and many areas
have walking festivals. Moredetails on all aspects of walkingare available from these sites:
www.walkingwild.comwww.scotways.com
www.ramblers.org.uk/index.html
www.smc.org.uk
Fife Coast
The Cateran Trail in Blairgowrie
Berneray
Gigha Hotel,Isle of Gigha
Even though it’s only7 miles (11 km) long by2 miles (3 km) wide,the Vikings liked thisisland so much theystayed for 400 years.As well as tranquillityand sandy bays, theisland is celebrated forAchamore House andits semi-tropical gar-den. d Map G2–3 • (01583)505254 • www.isle-of-gigha.co.uk • ££
Isle of Eriska HotelA tiny “Isle of Sanctuary”, on
which stands a superlative hotel:a baronial castle with as manydown feathers and soothingfabrics as comfort could desire.A golf course, swimming pool,gymnasium, tennis courts andthe freedom of the wildlifereserve are all at hand. Badgersturn up for milk at the bar mostnights. d Ledaig • Map E3 • (01631)720371 • www.eriska-hotel.co.uk • £££££
Barnhill, JuraGeorge Orwell sought the
isolation of this house when hecame to Jura to write NineteenEighty-Four. You get to stoke thecooker with coal, much as thewriter would have done in 1946.If you don’t have a four-wheeldrive you’ll have to walk the last5 miles (8 km). Check out theCorryvreckan whirlpool, but don’t– as Orwell did – get caught in it.d Map F2 • Bookings: (01786) 850274 • £
Camping in BreachachaCastle grounds on Coll
Loch Breachacha, and a corner ofUtopia for £2 a night! Okay, youhave to provide the canvas, butyou get to live on a beach withviews over the bay to BreachachaCastle. Simple facilities but thisincludes showers and you needno more on this wonderful island.d Map E2 • (01879) 230374 • £
Port Mor HouseSafe bathing, sandy beaches,
colonies of puffins and wonderfulisolation make the Isle of Muck(either isle of “pig”, or “porpoises”)a rat-race escapee’s dream. PortMor House is a well-establishedguesthouse, run by the familythat still owns and farms theisland. After a day’s walking orbeach-combing, indulge insuperb and imaginative cooking.d Map E2 • (01687) 462365 • £
Kinloch Castle Hostel, RumShare in the fantasy of this
magnificent Victorian folly,
Island Retreats
Breachacha Castle, Coll
Price categories are calculated per night, but for self-cateringcottages there is usually a minimum stay of one week
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Kinloch Castle. Dine atthe bistro or stay inthe former servants’quarters, a self-catering hostel (seep.151). A great placefrom which to imbibethis beautiful andmountainous island.d Map D2 • (01687) 462037• £
Eriskay A self-catering flat close
to the beach on a halcyonHebridean island, now linked bycauseway to South Uist. A rareconvolvulus grows here, said tohave been planted by BonniePrince Charlie to mark his firstlandfall in Scotland – Prince’sBeach. Any stay is incompletewithout a visit to Am Politicianbar, with its relics from the shipin the famous British film classicWhisky Galore. d Map D1 • (01878)720274 • £
Berneray Youth HostelThe Gatliff Hebridean Hostels
Trust has restored two old black-houses (cottages blackened insideby peat smoke) to make thishostel, overlooking the Sound ofHarris. Berneray is PrinceCharles’s favourite island: its
west coast is onelong beach. Greatwalks and birdlife.d Map C1 • www.gatliff.org.uk • £
Balfour Castle,Orkney
A castle with realhome comfort,completed in 1848to a slightly eccen-
tric calendar design (it has 7turrets, 12 entrance doors, 52rooms and 365 panes of glass).This family-run hotel has style,class and great service. There arefour-poster beds, open fires, alibrary and even a private chapel.A garden and locally-producedfood with flavour add to the mix(see p148). d Shapinsay, Orkney • Map A5 • (01856) 711282• www.balfourcastle.co.uk • £££
Busta House Hotel,Shetland
Britain’s most northerly countryhouse hotel is a 16th-centurylaird’s home with a history thatreads like a thriller. The white-washed house combines characterwith elegance; winter visits arewarmed by peat fires (see alsop147). d Brae • Map A1 • (01806)522506 • www.bustahouse.com • £££
Barnhill, Jura, where George Orwell wrote Nineteen Eighty-Four
Busta House Hotel
For price categories see p143
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Edinburgh CastleThe greatest castle in a land
that’s full of them, not only prizedfor its crowning position in thecapital’s heart, butalso for its importanthistory and the nation-al treasures it holds(see pp8–9).
Culzean CastleRobert Adam’s
masterful design andexquisite taste reachedtheir apotheosis in this castle,which ranks as one of Britain’sfinest mansions. Set in a parkthat does it ample justice, it com-mands a dramatic coastal posi-tion, looking seaward from the topof an Ayrshire cliff (see pp28–9).
Caerlaverock CastleA triangular ruin with
immense towers, Caerlaverockstill sits within a filled moat. Itshistory spans a siege by Edward Iin 1300 and aluxuriousupgradingshortly
before its fall in 1640. Its yellowsandstone walls glow beautifullypink and orange in the afternoonlight (see p79).
Stirling CastleDramatically
perched on cragsoverlooking the plainswhere some ofScotland’s mostdecisive battles tookplace, this castle wasone of the nation’s
greatest strongholds and a keyplayer in her history. Thegatehouse, Great Hall and theRenaissance Royal Palace areoutstanding. Check out theprogramme for special events,from tapestry weaving to swordfights (see p97).
Glamis CastleThis 17th-century fairytale
castle is best known for itsliterary associations: Duncan’sHall provided the setting for theKing’s murder in Shakespeare’sMacbeth. It also has a famoussecret chamber and was thechildhood home of the lateQueen Mother. Rooms
represent different periodsof history and containfine collections of armour,furnishings and tapestries.There’s said to be a ghostabout, too. The gardenswere laid out by thegreat 18th-centurylandscape gardener“Capability” Brown.
Castles
Edinburgh Castle
Caerlaverock Castle
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d Glamis, Angus • Map E5 • (01307)840393 • www.glamis-castle.co.uk• Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm • Adm
Blair CastleSeat of the Duke of Atholl,
the only man in Britain still allow-ed a private army, this statelywhite castle is an arresting sighton the main road north. The oldestpart dates from 1269, but afterdamage during the Jacobite cam-paigns it was completely restyledand all the turrets added. d MapE4 • (01796) 481207 • Apr–Oct: 9:30am–4:30pm • Adm • www.blair-castle.co.uk
Balmoral This is the Queen’s choice.
Queen Victoria purchased theestate in 1852 and transformedthe existing castle into this un-gainly but imposing mansion setin spectacular grounds. It is stillthe private holiday home of theroyal family, and provides a won-derful insight into contemporarystately living (see p104).
Craigievar CastleFor sheer elegance, few
castles can match Craigievar. Itscluster of towers held atop theslender tower house (1626) isa masterpiece of baronialarchitecture and poise. Theinterior retains the appearanceof the original Forbes familyhome. d Alford, Aberdeenshire • MapD5 • (01339) 883635 • Apr–Oct:12–5:30pm Fri–Tue • Adm
Cawdor CastleWhether or not the real
Macbeth lived here in the 11thcentury, it’s the sort of make-believe castle to satisfy all yourShakespearean expectations.Utterly magical with its originalkeep (1454), a drawbridge,ancient yew tree and enoughweapons to start an uprising.The garden and estate are equallyenchanting and there’s even amaze (see p104–5).
Eilean Donan CastleOne of Scotland’s most
photographed castles becauseof its incredible setting –huddled on an island off themountainous shores of LochDuich. This 13th-centurystronghold of the clan Macraewas a ruin until its restoration inthe 1930s (see pp112–13).
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Royal Botanic GardenThe capital’s prize garden,
with majestic trees, rockterraces, glasshouses andborders bursting with colour.A delight in every season.Watch out for the calendar ofspecial events, such asmusic, theatre and exhi-bitions of contemporary art(see also pp70–71). d 20aInverleith Row, Edinburgh • MapK5 • (0131) 552 7171 • www.rbge.org.uk• 10am–dusk daily • Free
Dawyck Botanic GardenAn exciting outpost of the
Edinburgh Botanic, where treesare the speciality. They beganplanting them here 300 yearsago and have never stopped. Thediversity is enormous and manyspecimens now rank as thefinest examples of their kind.Ideal for great woodland walks ina particularly lovely part of theBorders. d Stobo, nr Peebles • MapG5 • (01721) 760254 • Mar–Nov:10am–6pm (Nov: 4pm) daily • Adm
Kailzie GardensThis formal walled garden is
an outstanding example of whatwas once more common on
family estates. Marvellousroses fill the air with
fragrance, and there’s apond stocked with troutwhere you can try your luckat fishing. d Kailzie, nr Peebles• Map G5 • (01721) 720007• Apr–Oct: 11am–5:30pm daily;
Nov–Mar: 11am–5pm daily • Adm
Logan Botanic GardenThe Logan boasts the
greatest number of exoticspecies growing outdoors inScotland. The southernhemisphere is particularly wellrepresented and the palm treesand gunnera have grown toalmost jungle proportions. Apartfrom the climate, there’s a SouthPacific feel to the place. It’susually much quieter than othergardens, too. d Port Logan, south ofStranraer • Map H3 • (01776) 860231• Mar–Oct: 10am–6pm daily • Adm
Kailzie Gardens
Mercury,
Kailzie Gardens
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Botanical Gar-dens, Glasgow
The city’s magnificentgardens are especiallynoted for their glass-houses, packed withexotic plants. Fore-most among these isthe curved iron frame-work of the KibblePalace. A wonderfuloasis of palm trees,ferns, orchids andbegonias is foundinside (see alsopp92–3). d 730 Great Western Road,Glasgow • Map V1 • (0141) 334 2422• Park: dawn–dusk daily; Glasshouses:10am–4:45pm (4:15pm winter) daily • Free
Crarae GardensA superb woodland garden
with one of the country’s mostdiverse collections of rhododen-drons. Many of the seeds wereoriginally gathered on privateexpeditions around the world andsome species are now rare. InMay the garden bursts into a bril-liant mass of blooms and is worthtravelling a long way to see (seealso p98). d Nr Inveraray • Map F3 • (01546) 886614 • 9:30am–sunset daily;Apr–Oct: 10am–5pm (Visitor Centre) • Adm
Arduaine GardensOverlooking the sea, this
garden has another famousrhododendron collection, butalso includes exotic blue Tibetanpoppies, giant Himalayan liliesand Chatham Island forget-me-nots. Painstakingly restored toglory by two brothers (see alsop98). d Nr Oban • Map F3 • (01852)200366 • 9:30am–sunset daily • Adm
Inverewe GardensThese world-famous
gardens were nurtured intoastonishing fertility in 1862 byOsgood Mackenzie, and became
his life’s work. Exoticplants, shrubs andtrees from all over theworld, in a stunninglocation on Loch Ewe(see also p113). d NrPoolewe • Map C3 • (01445)781200 • mid-Mar–Oct: 9am–9pm daily; Nov–mid-Mar:9:30am–4pm daily • Adm
HydroponicumA totally revolu-
tionary place, the“garden of the future”
has no soil but uses water tocarry nutrients to the plants.Within this immense greenhousethey grow everything from tropi-cal flowers to bananas (see alsop114). d Achiltibuie • Map C3 • (01854)622202 • www.thehydroponicum.com• Easter–Sep: 10am–6pm daily (last tour5pm); Oct: 11:30–3:30pm Mon–Fri • Adm
Pitmedden GardenOriginally laid out in a classic-
al French style in 1675, this gar-den was re-created 50 years ago.Within a vast walled area arefour elaborate floral parterres,three of them heraldic designs(see also p103). d Ellon • Map D6• (01651) 842352 • Grounds: daily; Visitorcentre: May–Sep: 10am–5pm daily • Adm
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River TweedThe “Queen of salmon rivers”
has the highest number of fly-catches of any British river. Autumnbrings the greatest run, but puristssay the quality of the smaller springrun is better. Beats are £30–£600per rod per day. The Borders Tour-ist Office produce an excellentfree guide Fishing in the ScottishBorders. d Map G5–5/F6 • 1 Feb–30Nov • Borders Tourist Office: (0870)6080404; www.fishtweed.co.uk
Loch FittyYou can catch salmon here,
but this well-stocked loch is bestknown for its trout (rainbow andbrown). Fish from the bank orfrom a boat every day of theweek during the season. Thereare B&Bs and a caravan parknearby, and The Halfway HouseHotel – (01383) 731661 – isespecially welcoming to anglers.d Nr Dunfermline • Map F5 • Mid-Feb–Dec • Permits available locally • Contact:Fife Angling Centre (01383) 620666;www.lochfitty.com
River TayThe Tay is justly famed for
its game fishing, and there’splenty of it in this long river. Thecost varies greatly: in the Dunkeldarea alone, for example, it canrange from £20 to £150 a rod perday. Brown trout fishing can beas little as £3 per day in its mar-ginally shorter season. d Map E4–5• Salmon season: 15 Jan–15 Oct • Troutseason: 15 Mar–6 Oct • Contact:Perthshire Tourist Board (01738) 450600
River FindhornSome swear they’d never
fish anywhere else. The Findhornis a majestic river, flowing fromthe Monadhliath mountainsthrough wild moorland, forestand farmland to one of theprettiest of all estuaries. As withall Scottish rivers, the fishing isweather-dependent, but in agood year its bag of salmon,grilse and sea trout can rankamong the best. d Map D4–C5• Permits available from The Fish & TackleShop at Forres (01309) 672936
River SpeyScotland’s sec-
ond longest river isits fastest flowingand can claim themost consistentlybeautiful sceneryfrom end to end.Local village fishingassociations offerrelatively cheap daytickets, while privatebeats with the bestRiver Spey
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reputations, such as Tulchan,command high prices. d Map D4–5/C5 • Feb–30 Sep• Grantown Association permits:(01479) 872684 • Tulchan SportingEstates: (01807) 510200
Sutherland’s RiversMany of the fine fishing
rivers in this area, such asthe Shin, Oykel, Brora andNaver have occasionalopportunities – easier fortrout than salmon – forvisiting fishermen (try ParkHouse Sporting (01549)402208) but are largelyleased by syndicates. TheRiver Helmsdale, however,has a first-class reputationand an association thatoffers day permits for salmon,sea and brown trout. d Map C4/B4–5 • Permits from Bridge Hotel TackleShop (01431) 821102.
Assynt LochsSuperlative trout fishing in
scenery to match. Walk into thehills with lunch and tackle, andfind your own secluded lochfrom a choice of over fifty. d Map C3 • Fly-fishing only: 15 Mar–6 Oct • Permits available at many outlets,including Lochinver Post Office (01571)844201, Tourist Information Office (01571)844330 and most local hotels
Scrabster With its tidal races, the
Pentland Firth can be awild stretch of water. It isa favoured haunt of fishsuch as cod, pollok, coal-fish, ling, mackerel andwrasse, all of which areregularly caught. The Britishrecords for halibut andportbeagle shark were setoff Scrabster, but thesespecies are rarely hookednow. d Map B5 • No closed
season • Contact: Scottish Federation ofSea Anglers (01292) 264735
North Uist LochsWith almost as much fresh
water as land, North Uist is oneof Scotland’s hallowed troutfishing areas. Each season seessuperb specimens caught fromboth bank and boat. Ghillies(guides-cum-gamekeepers) areavailable to show you the bestspots and to advise on bait. d MapC1–D1 • North Uist Estate Office (01876)500329; www.nuac.co.uk (angling club)
Orkney LochsOf the seven major lochs,
Harray is the most renowned.Brownies (brown trout)are abundant, and there’severy chance of a seatrout or even a salmon.Wading is recommendedearly in the season but aboat (which can be hiredeasily) is preferable insummer. d Map A5–B5 • 15Mar–6 Oct • Contact: OrkneyTourist Board (01856) 872856;www.orkneytroutfishing.co.uk
Assynt
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For more about St Andrews, the “home of golf”, see p86
St Andrews
GleneaglesAnother legendary
group of courses, inbeautiful moorland
attached to a luxurioushotel. Queen’s Course isthe shortest, then comesKing’s and finally Monarch’s,a marathon 6,475 m (7,081yards). No handicap certifi-cates required. Andrew
Fairlie’s delectable restaurant islisted on pages 65 & 89. d Map F4• (01764) 694469 • www.gleneagles.com
GullaneAlmost every blade of grass
in this corner of East Lothian isdedicated to golf. Muirfield is theelite course but a private club.Gullane No. 1 is open to anyone(handicap certificate required),while Nos 2 and 3 have norestrictions. If Gullane’s crowdedthen it’s a short drive (by car) toNorth Berwick, Haddington orAberlady, and seven more topcourses. d Map F5 • (01620) 842255• www.gullanegolfclub.com
GlasgowGailes
Despite its name,it’s well down thecoast from Glasgowand is consideredone of the finestsea-edge courses.Great open vistasand fairways linedwith heather add toits challengingholes. Western
St AndrewsEvery golfer dreams of
playing here. There are sevencourses, including, mostfamous of all, the Old Course.Book months in advance ortake your chance in thelottery for unreserved placesheld the day before. Fit in avisit to the Golf Museumtoo. The plush restaurant atthe Old Course Hotel is listed onpage 89. d Map F5 • (01334) 466666• www.standrews.org.uk
Carnoustie Championship Course
A delightful course, the superblinks and great character ofwhich have earned it a world-class reputation. You’ll need topresent your handicap certificateto play here and reserve your teein advance, but there are twoother good links if you don’t geton the main one. It’s best to avoidthe busy weekends throughoutthe year. d Map E5 • (01241) 853789• www.carnoustiegolflinks.co.uk
Golf Courses
Golfer, Nairn
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Gailes runs alongsideand shares all thequalities of its morefamous neighbour.d Irvine • Map G4 • (0141)942 2011 • www.glasgowgailes-golf.com
TroonAmong the six
courses here there’sone for everyone,from Fullarton’s funcourse for beginnersto the classics such as Darleyand Portland. But the best is theOld Course, a vintage Openvenue. Apply well in advance (butno women allowed). d Map G4 • Old Course & Portland (01292) 311555;www.royaltroon.com; Darley, Fullarton,Kilmarnock, Lochgreen (01292) 312464
Old PrestwickNew courses come and steal
the limelight but Old Prestwickglows as an enduring favourite.In 1860 it was the first venue forthe British Open Championship,and it remains a challengingcourse. One of Scotland’s mostvenerated. Very busy, especiallyat weekends. d Map G4 • (01292)477404 • www.prestwickgc.co.uk
TurnberrySituated on the Ayrshire
coast, the Ailsa Course hastested all the world’s greatplayers. A brand new course, theArran, has just opened. Access isdifficult unless you stay at thehotel. For expert tuition and areview of your game, contact theColin Montgomerie Links GolfAcademy, the multi-million-poundaddition to the hotel. d Map G3• (01655) 331000 • www.turnberry.co.uk
NairnThe two championship
courses here boast the finest
greens in Scotland. The Nairnhas a distinguished record ofhosting major tournaments butalso has a nine-hole course, theNewton, for holiday golfers.Nairn Dunbar is the other top-notch course. d Map D4 • Nairn(01667) 453208; Dunbar (01667) 452741 • www.nairndunbar.com
Royal DornochRanked in the top ten courses
in Britain, the ChampionshipCourse has 18 pristine holes. Itwas laid out by Tom Morris in1877 and follows the naturalcontours of the dunes aroundDornoch Bay. A wonderful settingand less pressurized than otherquality links. d Map C4 • (01862)810219 • www.royaldornoch.com
Prestwick club house
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For an A–Z of information on Scotch whisky, check out www.scotchwhisky.net
LaphroaigWith their heavy smoked-
peat flavour, the Islay maltsreally are in a class of theirown. Even if you think youwon’t like them, try them!This malt is pronounced “la-froyg”, but in truth yourpronunciation doesn’t matter –the taste is famous enoughfor instant recognition. Adelightfully informal andintimate tour with plenty of witand grist at a fine sea-edgelocation. d Nr Port Ellen, Islay • MapG2 • (01496) 302418 • www.laphroaig.com • Mon–Fri, tours at 10:15am and2:15pm by appt only • Adm
Lagavulin Like its rival Laphroaig (see
above), this is a very distinctivemalt. It is made in a traditionaldistillery with unusual pear-shaped stills. A highly personaltour without that feeling ofmass-market hustle. d Port Ellen,
Islay • Map G2 • (01496) 302400• Mon–Fri, tours by appt only • Adm
Glenkinchie A rare Lowland distillery,
this one was founded in 1837and is only 15 miles (24 km)from Edinburgh. This makes ita popular place to visit, and
so rather crowded, but it’sup to the task, with a state-of-the-art visitor centre.
d Pencaitland, nr Haddington • Map F5• (01875) 342004 • Jun–Sep: 10am–5pmMon–Sat, noon–4pm Sun; Oct–May:times and days vary • Adm
Edradour Established in 1825, this is
Scotland’s smallest distillery andits cluster of buildings hasremained virtually unchanged for150 years. To witness theprocess here is all the moredelightful for its being inminiature. Only twelve casks aweek are produced, making it (as
they say) “a rare treatfor a few”. d Nr Pitlochry• Map E5 • (01796) 472095• www.edradour.com• Mar–Oct: 9:30am–5pmMon–Sat, noon–5pm Sun;Nov–mid-Dec: 10am–4pmMon–Sat
GlenlivetOne of the first
distilleries to comeout of hiding and belegalized in 1824, theGlenlivet has been atthe forefront of theGlenkinchie stills
Whisky Distilleries
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industry ever since. A fluent andcomprehensive tour. The best bitis the musty warehouse wherethe whisky sleeps for 12–18years. d Ballindalloch • Map D5• (01542) 783220 • www.theglenlivet.com• Apr–Oct: 10am–4pm Mon–Sat,12:30–4pm Sun • Free
GlenfarclasOne of the few
independentcompanies and justlyproud of it. Establishedin 1836, this distillery isstill owned and managedby the fifth generation of theGrant family. Tour the gleamingcopper stills and then take adram in the splendid ShipsRoom. d Ballindalloch • Map D5• (01807) 500245 • www.glenfarclas.co.uk• 10am–4pm Mon–Fri (to 5pm Apr–Sep);Jun–Sep: 10am–5pm Sat • Adm
MacallanAnother of the famous
Speyside brands, and one of themost modern visitor centres inthe valley. Aside from a guidedtour, you explore whisky-makingusing the latest interactivetechnology. For a modest sumyou can become a connoisseurby prearranging an individuallytutored nosing and tastingsession. d Craigellachie • Map D5• (01340) 872280 • www.themacallan.com• Easter–Oct: 9am–6pm Mon–Sat; Nov–Easter: 9am–5pm Mon–Fri • Adm
CardowThe only distillery to have
been pioneered by a woman and,aside from producing a distinguish-ed single malt, it provides theheart of the Johnnie Walker blend.This is one of the smaller distiller-ies and charming for it. d Knockando• Map D5 • (01340) 872555 • Jul–Sep:10am–5pm Mon–Sat, noon–4pm Sun;Oct–Jun: times and days vary • Adm
Talisker The only distillery on Skye
and it’s been producing a highlyrespected malt since 1830,legally at least (see pp20–21).Tours last 40 minutes and arebright and informative. d Map D2 • (01478) 614306
Highland ParkPossibly not the
most famous whisky(though definitely amongthe greats), but the besttour. Maybe becausethey’re so remote, they
try harder. Prepare to be takenthrough deep piles of malt dryingin a delicious reek of peat. d NrKirkwall, Orkney • Map A5 • (01856)874619 • www.highlandpark.co.uk • May–Sep: 10am–5pm Mon–Sat, noon–4pmSun; Oct–Apr: times and days vary • Adm
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Kilts and TartansNo one knows why
Highlanders adoptedthis distinctive mode ofdress or exactly whenclans adopted a family“pattern” or tartan. Theoldest tartan is dated ataround AD 245, and by1746 there wereenough clan tartans tobe prohibited for 38years in a purge onHighland culture. Today, withover 2,000 registered designs,tartans are flourishing.
BagpipesNo sound is more evocative
of Scotland than that of the bag-pipes. The great highland pipesare played by pipe and drumbands, and by individuals playingfor competition or dancing. Over
the last two decadesbagpipes have alsoemerged onto thestage of world musicalongside every otherconceivable instrument.
Highland Dancing Vital ingredients of
any Highland Gamesare the young, kilteddancers competing onstage. They leap and
turn, endeavouring to executethe varied steps perfectly in timeto pipe music. Among the mostcommon are the Sword Dance,performed over crossed blades,and the Highland Fling. Look out,too, for demonstrations of theancient tradition of step dancing,now being revived.
Gaelic Language The rich language of the
Gael can be seen on road signsand heard in shops in theHighlands and Islands. There areestimated to be 60,000 Gaelic-speakers in the country, theirstronghold being the WesternIsles, but even here it’s a secondlanguage. Despite the increasein Gaelic-medium education andthe success of Gaelic pop starsRunrig, young people appear lessdedicated to the language and itsuse is in decline.
Highland Games These are great summer
spectacles that take place incommunities across the land.Young piper at Edinburgh Castle
Highland Traditions
Kilt maker
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Most popular are the kiltedstrongmen in the “heavyevents”, which includehurling monstrous hammersand tossing the caber.This is a tree trunk thatmust be lifted vertically,carried at a trot and tossedso that it turns end overend. Packed withbagpipes, dancers andathletes, these games arean essential part of any visit.
ShintyThis sport makes football
look dull. A sort of hockeywithout rules, this fast-movinggame is terrific entertainment (itdoes have rules, but they’re notapparent to the casual observer).Games take place during winterand spring in the Highlands,culminating in the CamanachdCup Final, the nearest thing to are-enactment of Culloden.
CurlingThis sport – rather like bowls
on ice – is the one in which theScots usually excel at the WinterOlympics. Heavy circular granitestones are used, with a flat baseand a handle on top. The curlerslides the stone down the rinktowards a bull’s-eye and teammates, armed with brushes,polish the path aheadof the stone if moremomentum is needed.
The Mod This great music
festival takes place ina different locationeach year and alwaysattracts hundreds oftop competitors. Con-ducted in formal dressand with a greatsense of dignity,these competitions
focus on Gaelic song andmusic. Singers perform as
soloists, duettists and aschoirs, all aspiring to win theMod’s highest accolade, which
is the Gold Medal. The instru-ment competitions are for
bagpipes, clarsachs (smallharps), fiddles, accordions,melodions and keyboards.
SabbatarianismCommonly in the
Western Isles, but also acrossmany parts of the Highlands andIslands, Sunday is still strictlyobserved as a day of rest. Bed-and-breakfast operators may takein their signs, and loud music orwashing hanging on lines mayoffend local sensibilities. Visitorsmay suffer inconvenience if theydon’t plan ahead.
CeilidhsCeilidh (“cay-ly”) is a Gaelic
word for a visit among friends,but it has taken on the meaningof “a party”. Sometimes it is justthat, a hall with a band whereeveryone dances. At others it isa performance where people doa turn, singing, dancing orplaying an instrument. They aregreat fun and even the smallestvillage hall may have world-classlocal or touring performers.
Highland Games
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Dancers at a ceilidh
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Our Dynamic EarthHoused in a spiked tent, this
electrifying exhibition is a great mixof education and entertainment.You travel through all sorts ofenvironments, from volcaniceruptions to the Ice Ages. Standon shaking floors and get caughtin a real tropical downpour – lotsof interactivity, powerful imagesand the full experience of tele-vision’s Walking With Dinosaurs(see also p70). d Holyrood Road• Map R3 • www.dynamicearth.co.uk• Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm daily; Nov–Mar:10am–5pm Wed–Sun • Adm
Edinburgh ZooOne of the world’s great
zoos, particularly noted for itsmarvellous penguin colony. Wellover 1,000 animals can be seenhere, including such fascinatingand endangered species as redpandas, tigers, white rhinos,ring-tailed lemurs and poison-arrow frogs (see p71). d Map J5
Deep Sea WorldSimply the best aquarium to
be found. Dazzling shoals andlots of dangerous water inhabi-tants. A conveyor-belt tour takesyou effortlessly through thisbeautifully presented environ-ment. A mesmeric experience(see p85). d Map F5
M&D’s Scotland’s Theme Park
Huge fairground fun centre witheverything that gravitational andcentrifugal forces can do to you.Big wheel, free-fall machine,flying carpet, kamikazewhirlygigs and the giant “500tons of twisted fun” roller-coaster. For the younger agesthere are gentler water chutesand merry-go-rounds. d Motherwell • Map F4 • (01698) 333999• www.scotlandsthemepark.com• Arcade: 10am–10:30pm daily; Rides:May–Aug: 11am–10pm daily; phone fortimes in Mar, Apr, Sep & Oct • Adm
GlasgowScience
CentreHoused in alandmark building,three entire floorsof hands-on experi-ments, which puzzle,delight and demon-strate that scienceis miraculous.There’s an IMAXscreen with 3Dfilms, too, and theworld’s first revolv-
Attractions for Children
Edinburgh Zoo
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ing tower (see alsopp18–19). d Map F4
KelburnCountry
CentreThe family estate ofthe Earls of Glasgowdoubles as anadventure park. Thesurprise-packedSecret Forest getsthe best vote, andkids go berserk onthe Marine AssaultCourse and soft playarea. Spectaculardisplays of falconry and well-organized pony treks. d Nr Largs• Map F3 • (01475) 568685• www.kelburncountrycentre.com• Adventure Park: late Mar–late Oct:10am–6pm daily; Secret Forest: lateMar–late Oct: noon–5pm; Grounds: allyear • Adm
Aviemore Kart CentreChildren just seem to love
noisy engines and burning theirway round race tracks. For allbudding Grand Prix champions,this is the place. There arecourses and machines to suit allages, and safety helmets areprovided. The Bullit is the fastestkart. d Aviemore • Map D4 • (01479)810722 • www.aviemorekartraceway.co.uk • 10am–late daily • Adm
Landmark Forest Theme Park
A discovery and play centre on atree theme. Join the squirrels onthe Tree Top Trail, climb the tallesttimber tower in the country ortry sawing a log with a two-mancross-saw. There’s also a Spider-man’s delight of climbing appa-ratus. d Carrbridge, nr Aviemore • MapD4 • (0800) 731 3446 • www.landmark-centre.co.uk • Apr–Aug: 10am–6pm daily;Sep–Mar: 10am–5pm daily • Adm
StorybookGlen
One for the youngervisitors. A familytheme park withgiant-sized modelsof storybook char-acters for kids tocrawl over and entermake-believe worlds.Nursery rhymesfeature highly:Humpty-Dumpty,Pooh and PostmanPat are some of thehappy characterspresent. d Maryculter,
nr Aberdeen • Map D6 • (01224) 732941• Mar–Oct: 10am–6pm daily; Nov–Feb:10am–4pm weather permitting • Adm • www.storybookglenaberdeen.co.uk
Beach Leisure CentreAberdeen has 10 swimming
pools, but this is the one forflumes. There’s a mini-flume fortots, but older children will beafter the hairiest and scariest:the Pipeline, Wipeout and Tube.The last of these you negotiateon a tyre, while as for the othertwo … just close your eyes andhope for the best. d Beach Prom-enade, Aberdeen • Map D6 • (01224)647647 • daily (flume times vary) • Adm
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Walk from Loch Morar to Tarbet
A combined walk and boat tripthrough sublime scenery. FromMorar’s silver sands, followBritain’s shortest river (half a mile)to the loch. Tarred at first, the wayturns into an undulating track be-side the water. It then wends toits destination at the lovely bayof Tarbet. Arrive by 3:30pm tocatch the ferry back to Mallaig. d Map E3–D2 • 12 miles (20 km); approx6 hours • Book the ferry (summer only) inadvance: (01687) 462320
Old Forge Music VenueNo juke boxes, video games,
coach parties, briefcases or foot-ball colours. Instead, the OldForge offers legendary musicsessions, superb, unpretentiousfood, open fires and free moor-ings if you arrive by boat. Thesea almost laps at the door, andKnoydart’s scenery is equal tothe best. Combine with the walkby Loch Morar. d Inverie • Map D3
Sunset from Craig Youth Hostel
A simple, isolated cottage withfive-star views over the sea toSkye and the Western Isles –sunsets are utterly breathtaking.Only accessible by foot, Craig is3 miles (5 km) from Little Diabegor 5 miles (9 km) from Red Point– and lovely miles they are too.You’ll need to bring a sleeping bag,and bear in mind that there’s nophone on site. d Map C3 • ScottishYHA (0870) 1553255; www.syha.org.uk • 10 May–31 Aug (approx)
Foyers Falls The more rain, the merrier for
this one, so leave your visit untilafter a wet day – or seven! Theupper falls are impressive; thelower falls even more so, plunginga spectacular 30 m (100 ft). Theyellow-white torrent gushes intoa black bowl, hollowed deep inthe forest, and the almighty roarof the water is as inspiring asthe magnificent sight. d Map D4
Walk fromGardenstown
to CrovieIt’s only a short walk,about a mile (2 km),between these twocaptivating villages(see p105), but don’tlet that deceive you.A few Tarzan-ishqualities are required,for in places your onlylinks to Mother Earthare chains bolted toWalkers’ path by Loch Morar
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the rock and toe-holds.Given these restrictions,it requires great carebut is not hard. A mini-adventure amid rocksand grassy cliffs, end-ing in the secret worldof Crovie. d Map C6
Carbisdale CastleYouth Hostel
Could there be a hostelgrander than this?Once home for theexiled King of Norway, the castlewas built as a Romantic folly in1914, with ballroom, library,marble fireplaces and a staircaseof epic proportions. The art maynot be the best but it looks thepart, and sometimes there aremore statues than guests. dCulrain • Map C4 • (01549) 421232 • www.syha.org.uk • 1 Mar–26 Oct (approx)
Drive from Ullapool to Kylesku
Scotand’s most beautiful road –drive it in spring when it’s almostconsumed by yellow-floweringwhins, or in winter when surferupts against the shore, or on ablue summer evening whenAssynt’s mountains assume theshape of absurd scribbles. Butdo drive it: take the A835 northfrom Ullapool, go west at Drum-runie, follow signsto Lochinver, thenthe B869 to Kylesku.d Map C3–B3
Sandwood Bay
Perhaps it’s thecolourful strata pat-terning the rocks(Lewisian gneiss,among the world’soldest) or the quali-ty of the sand. Per-haps it’s the huge
stack that standssentinel at one endlike some antediluvianshepherd. Or theAtlantic waves thatcharge in with billow-ing crests. Or is it thefact that so often youcan have this mind-stretching expanse ofbeach to yourself?d Nr Kinlochbervie • Map B3
St KildaScotland’s first World
Heritage Site, this archipelago ofmonumental cliffs was, until1930, inhabited by a highlyindividual community who livedoff the islands’ millions of sea-birds. Such is St Kilda’s isolationthat it has its own subspecies ofmouse, wren and sheep. Hard toget to, but if you can it’ll touchyour soul. d For info about visiting StKilda, check out www.kilda.org.uk
Regional FeisA feis (“faysh”) is a festival
of Gaelic arts combined with work-shops. Lasting several days, mosttake place in the Highlands andIslands, always with terrific per-formances and blistering dances.d Feisean nan Gaidheal • Feb–Oct• (01463) 225559 • www.feisean.org.uk
Foyers Falls
Sandwood Bay
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Brian Maule at ChardonD’Or
A masterful use of traditionalFrench techniques and
textures, combined withthe very best of Scottishproduce, are used here tocreate some of the best
food in Scotland. Worthevery penny (see p95).
Silver Darling A long-established bistro
run by Didier Dejean, perched soclose to the mouth of the harbouryou can almost touch the passingboats. Book upstairs for views tomatch a menu packed with sen-sational food. The bent here istowards chargrilling, and seafoodis the speciality (see p107).
Three Chimneys You don’t establish a restau-
rant in the remotest corner ofSkye, win every award going andcontinue to run it to wild acclaimfor 20 years without doing
Restaurants
The Tower
Atrium The Atrium garners its huge
popularity from well-honedcooking, displayed in dishessuch as a ragout of pigeonwith foie gras, and roasthalibut with a red peppersauce (see p77).
The Witchery A wonderfully theatrical
setting in the Secret Gardenroom. Game and seafooddominate the menu, while the900-strong wine list carries areputation of its own (see p77).
The Tower With access to one of the
best views in Edinburgh, the foodcould easily take second place.But The Tower doesn’t rest on itslaurels, and continues to preparesimple Scottish dishes withcarefully sourced ingredients –from oysters, mussels andscallops, to a hearty AberdeenAngus steak (see p77).
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Top 10 ScottishDishes
Haggis Scotland’s most famous
dish is like a large, roundsausage containing spicedsheep’s innards and season-ing. It’s usually eaten withmashed “tatties” (potatoes)and “neeps” (turnips).
VenisonThe meat of wild red deer,
dark and full-flavoured. It’sserved as a steak or cut intocollops (slices of roast meat).
GrouseOne of Scotland’s prized
game birds, this dark meat isroasted and served withhome-made bread sauce.
StoviesA mix of potatoes, onions
and beef cooked in the dripping(fat) from the Sunday roast.
KippersFresh herring split open,
salted and smoked. Acommon breakfast dish.
Arbroath SmokiesSimilar to kippers, but
these are smoked haddockrather than herring.
Smoked SalmonThin boneless slices of
salmon that have beensmoked to give a rich tasteand deep pink colour.
Scotch BrothA light soup made from
mutton or beef stock, pearlbarley and various vegetablessuch as carrots and leeks.
Cock-a-leekie SoupChicken, leeks, rice and
prunes cooked in chicken stock– as wonderful as its name.
Cullen SkinkLike chowder, this is a
delicious soup made fromsmoked haddock, milk andmashed potato.
something right. Shirley and EddySpear do it perfectly in this oldcroft house, presenting local,fresh, simple, delicious food,cooked superbly. Make sure youbook – an international trail leadshere (see p123).
Andrew FairlieDine among Ionic pillars in a
high-ceilinged room with blue-black walls and drapes of creamsilk. The cuisine here is equallyoriginal, though the influence ismarkedly French. Try, for example,oak-smoked lobsters in limesauce (see p89).
The Peat InnCreated a Chef Laureate in
1972, David Wilson’s restaurantcontinues to enhance its reputa-tion. Wooden beams, open firesand printed fabrics set a Frenchprovincial scene, which comple-ments the style of cooking.Seasonal Scottish produce is tothe fore (see p89).
The CellarTucked off a backstreet
courtyard, everything about thisfabled little bistro is unassuming,except, that is, the exuberanceof the food. Apart from onemeat dish (vegetarian dishes canbe prepared by prior arrange-ment), the menu is entirely sea-food, and chef Peter Jukesscours the local markets for thebest of the day’s catch (see p89).
Airds HotelThis fine country hotel has
held a Michelin star since 1990.Seafood and game featureprominently but not exclusively,and Airds prides itself on the useof the freshest Highland foods,including Aberdeen Angus beef.They also do a wonderful poached-pear shortcake (see p101).
Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards and serve vegetarian meals
AROUND SCOTLAND
Edinburgh68–77
Southern Uplands78–83
North and East of Edinburgh
84–89
Glasgow90–95
North and West of Glasgow
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Grampian and Moray102–107
The Highlands110–115
West Coast Islands116–123
The Far North124–129
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WITH OVER 50 GOLF COURSES, 100 PARKS, sufficient Neo-Classicalarchitecture to dub it “the Athens of the North” and the crowning
splendour of its castle, Edinburgh ranks as one of the world’s most beautifulcities. Its centre is divided into two: the historic old town, with its cobblestonesand narrow wynds (alleys); and the striking Georgian architecture of the NewTown. Between them lies Princes Street Gardens, a bowl of greenery in theheart of the bustle. No other city crams in as many festivals during the yearas Edinburgh, and in August it becomes the greatestshowcase on earth for music, drama, dance andevery other conceivable form of artistic culture.
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Edinburgh Castle and the Royal Mile
This world famous castle wearsthe nation’s history. Here you’llfind the Scottish Crown, Swordand Sceptre, and the legendaryStone of Destiny. The Royal Miletreads a straightish but divertingpath from the Castle to Holyrood-house (see pp8–11).
National Gallery ofScotland
Scotland’s leading galleryincludes masterpieces by thegreat Scottish artists, such asRaeburn and Ramsay, but is bestknown for its 15th- to 18th-century British and Europeanpaintings. In these collections,you’ll find works by Botticelli,Velazquez, Raphael, Rembrandt,Rubens, Titian and many morebesides (see pp12–13).
Royal Museum andMuseum of Scotland
Two adjoining museums in radi-cally different styles and with verydiverse contents. Yet togetherthey present the nation’s mosttreasured historical artifacts. Worthvisiting for the Lewis Chessmenalone, but don’t expect to escapein under four hours (see pp14–15).
New TownThe New Town was the first
daring adventure into plannedarchitecture at a time of sordidliving conditions for the masses.Begun in 1776, these beautifullyproportioned buildings, set out inwide streets, crescents andsquares, have lost none of theirgrandeur. The best place to startyour walking tour is at theGeorgian House, a restoredmansion in Charlotte Square.Otherwise just wander whereveryour eye is drawn. d GeorgianHouse, 7 Charlotte Square • Map L3• (0131) 226 3318 • www.nts.org.uk• Mar, Oct–Dec: 11am–3pm daily;Apr–Oct: 10am–5pm daily • Adm
Princes Street Gardens and the Castle, above
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Calton HillRising above the town, Calton
Hill is crowned by a gathering ofClassical buildings: the Pantheon-like National Monument for thedead of the Napoleonic Wars, theNelson Monument, commemorat-ing the Battle of Trafalgar and theOld City Observatory. d Map P2
Our Dynamic EarthEvery bit as exciting and illu-
minating for adults as it is for kids,Our Dynamic Earth takes you ona journey through time from theBig Bang to the present. Amidthis rapid evolution, environmentalconcerns are brought to the fore(see also p60). d Holyrood Rd • MapR3 • (0131) 550 7800 • www.dynamicearth.co.uk • Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm daily;Nov-–Mar: 10am–5pm Wed–Sun • Adm
Royal Yacht BritanniaFrom 1953 to 1997 this was
the Queen’s floating home, thehoneymooning hotel of her
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children and Britain’s roving Royalcourt. Now you can wander thedecks and cabins of this fabulousship with an audio tour that tellsof the life and times of Britannia.d Ocean Terminal, Leith • Map K5 • (0131)555 5566 • www.royalyachtbritannia.co.uk• Apr–Sep: 9:30am–4:30pm daily;Oct–Mar: 10am–3:30pm • Adm
Royal Botanic GardenScotland’s premier garden
with trees, shrubs and flowersfrom around the world. Everythingfrom hothouse palm trees andgigantic lilies to dwarf cacti and
Left View from Calton Hill Right Royal Yacht Britannia, Leith harbour
Our Dynamic Earth
Princes Street GardensAn area of neutrality between
New Town and Old, these lovelygardens shelter under the wing of
the clifftop castle. During theFestival they become a majorevents venue, and throughout
summer the famous Floral Clock,comprising over 2,000 plants, ticksaway in a corner by The Mound.
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For where to stay in Edinburgh see pp142–4
Have a leisurely start andbe at the National Gallery
of Scotland (see pp12–13)when it opens at 10am.Ninety minutes shouldallow you to see theBotticelli, Canova andRaeburn’s skating minister,the Rev Robert Walker, aswell as far more besides.
Enter Princes Street Gar-
dens at the Floral Clock
(opposite the gallery), andascend the path to theCastle (see pp8–9), takingcare as it’s a steep climb.
Tour the castle, keeping aneye on your watch tomake sure you’re presentwhen the One O’Clock
Gun goes off – verydramatic! As you’re now atthe Castle Café, have aplatter to restore yourenergy levels beforesoldiering on.
Stroll down from theCastle Esplanade to theRoyal Mile (see pp10–11),stopping off at the High
Kirk and probably severalshops as well. AdmireJohn Knox’s House andhave the best hot choco-late of your life in Plaisir
du Chocolat on your leftin the Canongate.
Turn right off the Royal Mileat Reid’s Close (easy tomiss) and visit Our Dyna-
mic Earth, where you canpass several million yearsin the space of a meretwo hours or so.
If you still feel energetic,walk up Arthur’s Seat forspectacular evening views.Ninety minutes up anddown (if you’re fit) or graba taxi and be chauffeuredmost of the way up.
A Day in Edinburgh
Morning
Afternoon
orchids. Look out for specialevents, and the guided tours willfeed a curiosity you may neverhave realized you had (see p50).d 20a Inverleith Row • Map K5 • Free
Scottish National Galleryof Modern Art
This gallery only opened in 1960,but it has now amassed some5,000 works post-1890. Hereyou can find the hand of suchdiverse figures as Picasso, Munch,Charles Rennie Mackintosh andthe Pop-Art trio of Hamilton,Hockney and Tilson. Also checkout the Dean Gallery opposite forcontemporary shows (see p72).d 75 Belford Rd • Map J3 • 10am–5pmMon–Sat; noon–5pm Sun • Free • www.nationalgalleries.org
Edinburgh ZooYou have to go to Antarctica
to find a larger gathering of out-door penguins. Here, in an under-water gallery, you can watch 150cavort in the pool. The otherhighlights are the walkways overa re-creation of the African plains,where you can look down uponzebras, oryxes and ostriches(with a stunning, if rathermismatched, view of Edinburghin the background), as well asmarmosets and other miniaturemonkeys of the Magic Forest.But it’s the penguins that stealthe show. d Murrayfield • Map J5• (0131) 334 9171 • www.edinburghzoo.org.uk • Apr–Sep: 9am–6pm daily;Oct–Mar: 9am–4:30pm daily • Adm
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Best of the RestCanaletto, Rubens, Rembrandt, toname but a few). d Sth Queensferry• Map J5 • (0131) 331 2451 • www.hopetounhouse.com
Caledonian BreweryIntriguing tour of Edinburgh’s
famous brewery. Great coppervats and (smaller) samples. d 42 Slateford Rd • Map K6 • (0131) 6238066 • www.caledonian-brewery.co.uk
Edinburgh Butterfly and Insect World
A walk-through tropical forest witha myriad of free-flying butterfliesand friendly crawlies. d Lasswade• (0131) 663 4932 • www.edinburgh-butterfly-world.co.uk
Scottish Mining MuseumDon your headlamp and join
ex-miners on an enlighteningunderground tour. d Newtongrange• (0131) 663 7519 • www.scottishmining-museum.com
Crystal Visitor CentreAmid blazing furnaces,
watch molten glass turn intocrystal – good place to pick up abargain. d Penicuik • (01968) 675128• www.edinburgh-crystal.com
Open-Top Bus ToursCruise the city with guided
commentary and a pigeon’s eyeview. d Map N3 • (0131) 220 0770
Scottish National Portrait Gallery
Look Robert Burns, Bonnie PrinceCharlie and the Queen Mother inthe eye. Portraits through the ages,housed in a Gothic shrine. d QueenSt • Map N2 • www.nationalgalleries.org
Edinburgh DungeonJust when you thought you
liked Edinburgh! The worst of thecity’s past: murder, torture, punish-ment, disease and grave robbing.d Market St • Map N3 • (0131) 240 1000• www.thedungeons.com
Greyfriars KirkHistoric church, best known
for its statue (in the street) of“Greyfriars Bobby” (1858–72), adevoted terrier who lived by hismaster’s grave. d Map N4
Dean Gallery Opened in 1999, opposite
the Scottish National Gallery ofModern Art (see p71), the galleryhouses an art library and collec-tion of works by Paolozzi. It alsohosts temporary exhibitions.d Belford Rd • Map J3 • Free • www.nationalgalleries.org
Hopetoun HouseThis fine architectural gem,
work of the industrious RobertAdam, is both a stately homeand an art treasury (paintings by
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accessories in aquatic hues. Auseful stop for pleasant-smellingpresents. d Victoria St • Map N4
West Port BooksOne of a handful of indepen-
dent bookshops just to the westof Grassmarket selling a mix ofnew and secondhand books.West Port’s selection focuses onthe arts. d West Port • Map M4
Printmakers’ WorkshopA range of limited edition
works from contemporary print-makers at very reasonableprices. d 23 Union Street • Map P1
Valvona & CrollaThe best delicatessen in
Edinburgh. Trading since the1930s, Valvona & Crolla offer awonderful selection of wines,great bread and fine Italiansauces. d 19 Elm Row • Map P1
TisoBefore heading for the hills,
check out Tiso for all your outdooractivity paraphernalia: boots, tents,climbing ropes and compassesgalore. d 41 Commercial St, Leith• Smaller branch on Rose St; Map M3
JennersThe oldest department store
in the world, founded in the1830s but occupying its presentsite since 1895. A miscellany ofhigh quality goods and grandsurrounds. d 47 Princes St • Map N3
Hector RussellMade-to-measure kilts and a
gathering of the tartans. Also abranch on the High Street.d Princes Street • Map M3
WhistlesOne of several boutique
fashion stores that have madeGeorge Street their home overthe last few years. High fashionfor women. d 97 George St • Map M2
International NewsagentThe place to go to keep
abreast of all the foreign news/stories from back home. Goodselection of foreign-languagepapers and magazines. d 351 HighStreet • Map N3
Iain Mellis His cheeses are celebrated
all around Scotland, and featureon many an Edinburgh menu, butthe Victoria Street branch goesbeyond matters dairy to embracea panoply of culinary delicacies.Stock your hamper here.d 30 Victoria Street • Map N4
Halibut & HerringScottish handmade soaps and
all manner of colourful, squeezyand curvaceous bathroom
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Bars and Pubspalm plants and a choice of bars:the vast and theatrical circle baror the plush and cushioned sidebar, with its evocation of the1930s. d George St • Map M2
Opal LoungePopular, chic dj bar, with a
cosy backroom dining space. Thelow-lit rooms provide plenty ofspace for chatting, as well asshaking a leg. d George St • Map M2
Rick’s BarBar, restaurant and rooms,
in fact (see p143). Sleek designwarmed by rich, earthy hues andquiet mood lighting. d 55a FrederickSt • Map M2
Indigo YardMore intent on creating a vibe
than simply serving drinks andfood, Indigo Yard is good for lazyafternoons and carousing even-ings. d 7 Charlotte La • Map K3
The CumberlandMuch-loved pub, its lights
beckoning on cold winter nights,its pleasant side garden equallycoquettish in the summer heat.d Cumberland St • Map M1
Bow BarLush red and cream gloss
paintwork envelops this modestroom of a pub, where the soundsare provided by the jovial babbleof conversation and clinkingglasses. d Victoria St • Map N4
MonboddoSharp-dressed slice of New
York nightlife, set down amid theold-stone order of Edinburgh.Attached to the Point hotel (seep143). d 34 Bread St • Map L5
Bennet’sEver popular, its one-time
ordinary pubness rapidly becomingexotic: big old mirrors, a mix ofages, drinks in pint pots and cheaplunches. d 8 Leven St • Map L6
Deacon Brodie’sNot especially remarkable by
Edinburgh’s high standards, but ifyou’re on the Royal Mile (and youwill be), it’s a pleasant stop-offfor a pint. Another ornate ceilingto peruse, too. d High St • Map N/P3
Café Royal Circle BarSwirling ceilings, brass lamps
and a convivial atmosphere ofboth young and old, at lunchtimeenjoying simple seafood dishesfrom the kitchen of the Oyster Barnext door (see opposite). d Map N2
Dome BarA Corinthian-columned whale
of a building, entered through aflight of steps flanked by nocturnaldoormen. Ballooning chandeliers,
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over showmanship. d 33 North CastleSt • Map L3 • (0131) 226 7614 • ££££
Le Café St-HonoréBistro food that’s both familiar
and better than ever – the resultof scouring the markets at dawn.A charmer! d 34 North West Thistle StLa • Map M2 • (0131) 226 2211 • £££
Café Royal Oyster BarSeafood classics – oysters
on ice, soups and delicatelycooked fillets. All amid Victoriansplendour. d 17a West Register St• Map N2 • (0131) 556 4124 • ££££
A Room in the TownFriendly bistro in the heart of
Edinburgh’s New town specializingin the best of modern Scottishcooking with a slight internationalinfluence. BYOB. d 18 Howe St •Map L2 • (0131) 225 8204 • ££
Fishers, LeithLove, as much as praise, has
been heaped on this waterfrontseafood restaurant, and for goodreason: the cooking is honed; theambience warm. d 1 The Shore, Leith• (0131) 554 5666 • £££ • Sister restaurant,Fishers in the City, is at 58 Thistle St (M2)
The Atrium Unassuming side room off the
Traverse foyer, serving some ofthe best food (Modern European)in Edinburgh. d 10 Cambridge St• Map L4 • (0131) 228 8882 • ££££
The Witchery by the CastleAim for the Secret Garden
room to experience the Witcheryat its romantic best. Excels atdishes with a rural flavour: honey-roasted duck, terrines of venisonand pheasant. d Castlehill • Map M4• (0131) 225 5613 • ££££
The DialSharp subterranean restaurant,
plying Scottish produce mixedwith international flair. Good forvegetarians, too – even haggiscan be meatless! d 44–46 George IVBridge • Map N4 • (0131) 225 7179 • £££
The TowerGreat location, eyeing up the
Castle from the Museum of Scot-land’s rooftop. Tasty variations onScottish cuisine. d Chambers St• Map N4 • (0131) 225 3003 • £££
Howie’sLocal chain, recognizable by
the cream-and-blue seaside paint-work. European-based menu;excellent value. d Victoria St • MapN4 • (0131) 225 1721 • ££
OlorossoElevated in attitude and alti-
tude, this rooftop glass box offersviews, well-mixed cocktails and amenu that emphasizes precision
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Melrose Abbey
ABEAUTIFUL REGION OF ABRUPT AND ROLLING HILLS, sheep pastures,forested valleys and soporific rivers, Southern Scotland is the home of rugby,
Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott and spectacular castles and abbeys. For centur-ies this border country was the flashpoint of hostility between Scotland andEngland, but also a centre of commerce and religion. The monuments of thesetimes represent some of the best medieval and Renaissance architecture inEurope. Still sparsely inhabited, the border towns contest their rugby reputationsin winter and, with equal passion, celebrateancient riding festivals in summer.
Southern Uplands
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1 Culzean Castle
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8 Melrose Abbey
9 Dryburgh Abbey
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Culzean Castle
DrumlanrigCastle
Melrose AbbeyNewLanark
LinlithgowPalaceFalkirk Wheel
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DryburghAbbey
MellerstainHouse
Caerlaverock Castle
Motherwell
Kilmarnock
PrestwickIrvine
Ayr
Sanquhar
Cumnock
Peebles
Penicuik
Hawick
Selkirk
Melrose
Langholm
Moffat
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Dumfries
Gretna
Castle Douglas
NewtonStewart
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Kelso
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Glasgow
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Johnstone
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Carlisle
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New Lanark
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Culzean CastleThis cliff-edge castle was re-
modelled into a magnificent homefor the Earls of Cassillis in 1777by Georgian architectural masterRobert Adam (see pp28–9).
New LanarkIn 1820, at the height of the
Industrial Revolution, factory ownerRobert Owen recognized the needfor safe and efficient working con-ditions, matched by good qualityhousing for his workers. NewLanark was the result, a modernindustrial town that also boastedan education system (includingthe world’s first nursery school)and free healthcare. Now aUNESCO World Heritage Site, thisliving museum is still pioneering.d Map G4 • 11am–5pm daily • (01555)661345 • www.newlanark.org • Adm
Drumlanrig CastleThis castle of turrets and
spiked domes is home to theDuke of Buccleuch. Begun in 1676,it was such a lavish undertakingthat it almost ruined the family,but they bounced back and filledit with treasures. Particularly en-ticing are the silverware and richoak panelling. Great walks andcycleways in the vicinity. d Map G4• (01848) 330248 • www.drumlanrig.com• Easter, May–Aug: 11am–4pm daily (Sunfrom noon)
CaerlaverockCastle
This massive triangleof crafted stone, stillstanding within a filledmoat, is exceptional.Its towers and wallsare remarkably com-plete, despite havinglain in ruin for 400years (see also p46).d Nr Dumfries • Map H5• (01387) 770244 • Apr–Sep:9:30am–6:30pm daily;
Oct–Mar: 9:30am– 4:30pm daily • Adm • www.historic-scotland.gov.uk
The Falkirk WheelResembling a science-fiction
film set, this engineering marvelis a “world’s first”. In order toconnect two canal systems ondifferent levels, engineers cameup with the idea of using revolv-ing scoops. Canal boats enterwhat is essentially a giant bucketcontaining 300,000 gallons ofwater. Gates close, the wheelrevolves and boats are carried upor down to the next level. Ingeni-ous and fascinating to watch inmotion. Visitors can ride the wheelin special boats. d Map F4 • (08700)500208 • www.thefalkirk-wheel.co.uk• Boat trips: 9am–5pm (Feb–Nov); adm • Visitor Centre: 9am–6pm daily; free
Caerlaverock Castle
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Linlithgow PalaceOne of only four royal palac-
es in Scotland, Linlithgow was thebirthplace of Mary Queen of Scotsand provided a temporary safehaven for Bonnie Prince Charlieduring the Jacobite Rebellion (seepp32–3). Solid and fortress-likeon the banks of Linlithgow Loch,the palace still looks majestic inits semi-ruined state. This wasthe finest building of its day, andits master masons have left awealth of carvings. Look aroundthe Great Hall and chapel and mar-vel at the expertise of the crafts-men who laboured upon thiswonderful building. d Linlithgow• Map F5 • (01506) 842896 • Apr–Sep:9:30am–6:30pm daily; Oct–Mar: 9:30am–4:30pm Mon–Sat, 2–4:30pm Sun • Adm
Rosslyn Chapel As extraordinary as it is mys-
terious. You’d be hard pushed tocram more carvingsinto such a smallplace – and whatcarvings! Built in1446, it seems thatevery master masonhad to do a turn here,such is the variety ofstyles and subjects.Most curious of all arethe carvings of NewWorld plants. Theypredate Columbus’s
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transatlantic voyage of discoveryby one hundred years – expertsare dumbfounded, but the resultsspeak for themselves. d Rosslyn •Map F5 • (0131) 440 2159 • www.rosslyn-chapel.com • 10am–5pm Mon–Sat;from noon Sun • Adm
Melrose AbbeyThe tall lancet windows of
this impressive ruin must haveappeared miraculous to medievalworshippers. And today, it’s hardto believe that such monumentscould have been built as early as1136. Over the centuries, theabbey succumbed to pillage andwar damage, and now stands asa beleaguered but romantic spotfor the ghost of Robert theBruce (see pp96–7), whose heartis believed to reside within thesegrounds. d Melrose • Map G5 • (01896)822562 • Apr–Sep: 9:30am–6:30pm daily;Oct–Mar: 9:30am–4:30pm daily • Adm
Rosslyn Chapel
Dryburgh Abbey
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If you want to be flexibleabout where and when toeat, then shop at Valvona
& Crolla or Iain Mellis (forboth see p73) the daybefore your trip, and makea gourmet picnic – aslavish as you like.
The next morning, set offat 9am, just after rushhour,and drive to Rosslyn
Chapel to see the extra-ordinary carvings. As won-derful as they are, this stopwon’t take long. So, beforebeing tempted to delveinto the hamper, drive onto Penicuik and take theA703 to Peebles. It’sworth having a break forcoffee in this pretty town.
Now take the lovelyTweedside A72 toMelrose. Visit the majesticabbey and then eitherlunch here at Marmions ordrive on 5 miles (8 km) toScott’s View – one of thebest in the Borders – andhave your picnic at last.
If you haven’t overdosed onthe remnants of medievalmonastic life, then make abrief visit to Dryburgh
Abbey, the ruins andsituation of which are verydifferent to Melrose.
From Dryburgh it’s a shortdrive to Earlston to visitnearby Mellerstain House.Start with a cup of tea anda sugary energy boost inthe restaurant, and thentour at your leisure (itcloses at 5pm in summer).Leave your stroll aroundthe gardens till last as theyclose later.
Return to Edinburgh, ortour further along thisborder landscape.
Tour of the Abbeys
Morning
Afternoon
Dryburgh AbbeyLocated on a bend in the
River Tweed, these are the mostbeautiful and evocative ruins inSouthern Scotland. Founded in1152, the abbey was destroyedby the English in 1322, 1344 andagain in 1385, but each time itrose to magnificence once more,until it was finally consumed byfire in 1544. Despite having lainin ruin for 500 years, it is remark-ably complete, and the quality ofmasonry is unbelievable. See itwhen shadows fall for the mostspectacular views. d Nr St Boswells• Map G6 • (01835) 822381 • www.historic-scotland.gov.uk • Apr–Sep: 9:30am–6:30pm daily; Oct–Mar: 9:30am–4:30pmMon–Sat, 2–4:30pm Sun • Adm
Mellerstain HouseScotland’s most splendid
Georgian house (early 18th century) is another creation byarchitect Robert Adam. A vastedifice of perfect symmetry onthe outside contains rooms ofperfect proportions within. Thedelicate plasterwork of the library,resembling fine china, is con-sidered one of Adam’s greatestaccomplishments. Exquisitedetails abound throughout theinterior, while, outside, splendidterraced gardens run down to anornamental lake. d Gordon • Map G6• (01573) 410225 • www.mellerstain.com • Easter & May–Sep: 12:30–5pmWed–Mon; Oct: Sat & Sun • Adm
Mellerstain House
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Best of the Restand has the only silver staircasein the world. d Duns • Map F6 •(01361) 883450 • May–Sep: 2–5pm Thu,Sun & pub hols • www.manderston.co.uk.
Scott’s ViewSir Walter Scott’s favourite
view of the River Tweed and Eil-don Hills. Out of habit, his horsestopped here during Scott’sfuneral procession. d Nr DryburghAbbey on the B6356 road • Map G6
Galloway Forest ParkArea of superb loch, forest
and hill scenery. Take a picnic tothe Bruce’s Stone or have a dayout on foot or on bikes. d Map H4
St Abb’s HeadA national nature reserve on
dramatic cliffs packed with birds.Don’t miss the characterful townof St Abbs, with its excellentfishery museum. d Map F6 • visitorcentre: (018907) 71443
WigtownPretty market town that has
become Scotland’s “book town”,full of all sorts of literary speci-alities and events. d Wigtown •Map H4 • www.wigtown-booktown.co.uk
Creetown GemrockMuseum
A thrilling collection of preciousstones, crystals, minerals andfossils in a gem of a village. dWigtown Bay • Map H4 • (01671) 820357• www.gemrock.net • Easter–Sep: 9:30am–5:30pm daily; winter: 10am–4pm daily,except Dec–Feb (weekends only) • Adm
Scottish Seabird CentreRemote cameras relay live
action from the Bass Rock’s100,000 gannets. Take time for aboat trip around the headland too.d North Berwick • Map F5 • (01620)890202 • www.seabird.org • Summer:10am–6pm daily; winter: 10am–4pmMon–Fri, 10am–5:30pm Sat & Sun • Adm
Abbotsford HouseWonderfully eccentric collec-
tion of weaponry and historicalbric-a-brac, collected by the greatnovelist Sir Walter Scott and dis-played in his dream home. d NrMelrose • Map G6 • (01896) 752043 • mid-Mar–1 Nov: 9:30am–5pm Mon–Sat, 2–5pmSun (Jun–Sep: 9:30am–5pm Sun) • Adm •www.melrose.bordernet.co.uk/abbotsford
Traquair House A romantic chateau, this is
Scotland’s oldest continually in-habited house (900 years) and aformer pleasure ground for kings.d Innerleithen, nr Peebles • Map G5 •(01896) 830323 • Easter–31 Oct: 10:30am–5pm daily • Adm • www.traquair.co.uk
Burns National Heritage Park
Comprising a museum and thewriter’s cottage, this place ofpilgrimage celebrates the life andgenius of Scotland’s nationalpoet. d Alloway, nr Ayr • Map G4• (01292) 443700 • www.robertburns.org
Manderston HouseThe swansong of the great
classical house, this family homestands in sumptuous gardens
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one of the restaurant’s wilderadventures. dTweedsmuir • Map G5• (01899) 880272 • ££
Nardini’sNardini’s is a Scottish land-
mark – a bright cavern of icecream, chips and chocolate, plusan array of Italian dishes. d Largs• Map F3 • (01475) 674555 • ££
MarmionsLong-running French-feel
brasserie, popular with locals andvisitors. Snacks, full and rich à lacarte and wines for all tastes.d Buccleuch St, Melrose • Map G5• (01896) 822245 • Closed Sun • £££
ChurchesModern classy dining room
with conservatory and outsidetables in summer. Everythingfrom light snacks to haute cuisine.d Albert Rd, Eyemouth • Map F6• (01890) 750401 • ££££
Tibbie Shiels Inn “Olde worlde” atmosphere
and a bold menu of unpretentiousfood with four different vege-
tarian dishes daily. d StMary’s Loch, Selkirk • Map G5• (01750) 42231• ££
The Auld AllianceFrench-Scottish cuis-
ine, well priced, and theSolway scallops comehighly recommended.d 5 Castle Street, Kirkcudbright• Map H4 • (01557) 330569• Open Easter–Oct • £££
FoutersAn excellent, informal, award-
winning restaurant. Chef BrianMurphy is dedicated to cookingwith the best of local ingredients.d 2a Academy St, Ayr • Map G4 • (01292)261391 • Closed Sun & Mon • £££
Knockinaam LodgeTraditional food with a modern
touch in a sumptuous countryhouse. Memorable seafood, suchas a simple dish of pan-searedscallops. Order vegetarian mealsin advance. d Portpatrick • Map H3• (01776) 810471 • ££££
Philipburn Country HouseBistro and restaurant offer-
ing light snacks to full meals. Itmaintains a country-house atmos-phere, yet is very good value.Non-smoking. d Selkirk • Map G5• (01750) 720747 • ££££
Plumed HorseA new discovery in an unex-
pected place. Seriously highquality modern cuisine preparedby chef Tony Borthwick. Gainingpopularity by the day, so advancebooking is advised.d Crossmichael, nr CastleDouglas • Map H4 • (01556)670333 • Closed: Sun dinner &Mon • ££££
The Crook InnAncient den of hos-
pitality offering simplewholesome food. Filletsteak topped with haggisinside a pastry case is
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ATWO-HOUR DRIVE FROM EDINBURGH takes you into the majestic Highland-like landscape of Perthshire or the rich farmland of Fife, with its coastal
fringe of pretty villages. This is Scotland at its most diverse, with famouscastles, abbeys, ships, bridges, wildlife reserves and golf courses all foundwithin easy reach of each other by car. Scotland’s greatest sporting tradition,golf, is much in evidence – especially in St Andrews, the sport’s spiritualhome – while the many castles and palaces testifyto the enduring appeal of this pleasurable region.
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Blair Atholl
Dunkeld
Blairgowrie
Kirriemuir
Grieff
Aberfeldy
Gleneagles
Kinross
Dunfermline
Falkirk
Livingston
Glenrothes
Forfar
Clova
Cupar
Glamis
Carnoustie
Scone
St Monans
Haddington
Kirkcaldy
BLAIR CASTLE
Edinburgh
Dundee
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For more about Robert the Bruce see pp32 and 96–7
Deep Sea WorldInnovative presentation has
made this aquarium a phenomenalsuccess. Not only does it seemto have every imaginable speciesof dangerous, beautiful and uglyfish, but it also houses them in anetwork of glass tunnels, so thatgreat shoals of glittering fish sur-round you. The more adventurouscan even swim with sharks!d North Queensferry • Map F5 • (0906)9410077 • www.deepseaworld.com • Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm daily; Nov–Mar: 10am–5pmdaily, 10am–6pm Sat & Sun • Adm
CulrossOnce a thriving village with
mines, iron workings and tradelinks with the Low Countries,Culross fell into decline in the 18thand 19th centuries and became aforgotten backwater. Its restora-tion began in the 1930s, and nowthe town is a strikingresurrection of its16th- and 17th-centuryheyday. Even theplants in the palacegarden are in keepingwith the 1600s! d MapF5 • Palace: (01383)880359 • www.nts.org.uk• Easter– Sep: 12–5pmdaily; Oct–Dec: 12–4pmSat & Sun; Garden:10am–sunset (all year)
Dunfermline Abbey and Palace
Founded in the 11th century byQueen (later St) Margaret (see p8),the abbey’s stunning feature is the12th-century Romanesque nave.This was the burial place ofRobert the Bruce – without hisheart, which he requested betaken on a crusade to the HolyLand. A skeleton with the heartchamber cut open was discoveredin a grave here in 1818; the siteis now marked by a plaque to hon-our the hero of Bannockburn (seep32). d Dunfermline • Map F5 • (01383)739026 • www.historic-scotland.net •Apr–Sep: 9:30am–6:30pm daily; Oct–Mar:9:30am–4:30pm Mon–Sat, 2pm–4:30pmSun • Closed Fri & Sun am, Thu pm • Adm
East Neuk“Neuk” is a Scots word for
corner, and the East Neuk refersto a small bend in the coastlinealong which are found a remark-able chain of picturesque fishingvillages. They run from Earlsferryto Crail, and every one is a gem.Elie and Crail are probably themost quaint and are favouredhaunts of artists. Pittenweem’sbeautiful harbour is a stillworking port, and Anstruther, ahaven for yachts, has a bustlingseafront, where it’s impossiblenot to buy ice cream. Its ScottishFisheries Museum (see p88) isexcellent. d Map F5–6
Dunfermline Abbey
Culross
86
St AndrewsThe “home of golf” (see
pp54–5) has the oldest universityin Scotland, and red-robed stu-dents add a colourful, carefreeatmosphere to this pretty town.Once the ecclesiastical capital ofthe country, its cathedral is still aproud ruin, with a wealth of sculp-ture, and its castle has unrivalledexamples of siege tunnels and acurious “bottle dungeon”. There’salso a mile of beach for fine walks,and plenty of hip cafés andbistros. d Map F5 • Cathedral & Castleboth open Apr–Sep: 9:30am–6:30pm daily;Oct–Mar: 9:30am–4:30pm daily • Adm
Falkland PalaceA wonderful sense of history
pervades this palace, the homeof Mary Queen of Scots and theStuart kings from 1541. Restoredroyal bedchambers and fine 17th-century tapestries are on display,but most intriguing of all is theoldest real tennis court still in usein Britain, built in 1539. Unlikethe modern game, real tennis wasplayed indoors and shares somesimilarities with squash. d Map F5• (01337) 857397 • www.nts.org.uk • 1 Mar–27 Oct: 10am–6pm Mon–Sat,1pm–5:30pm Sun • Adm
PerthThe “Fair City”, as it is
known, is attractively situated onthe tree-lined River Tay. Despite
a complicated one-way system, its streetsare a delight of small-time shops, and it isone of Scotland’s primespots for browsingand buying. Though itdoes not boast anynotable historicalbuildings itself, Perthmakes a great centrefor touring manyothers found within a
short drive. A lovely walk takesyou up to a folly on Kinnoull Hilland from here the views arestupendous. d Map E5
Discovery PointThe full chill and hazards of
Antarctic exploration grip you inthis superb hi-tech exhibition.Focusing on the heroic and tragicexpeditions of Shackleton andScott, this display uses originalfilm footage as well as stunningmodern images and interactivecomputer screens. The highlightis a tour of the Dundee-built boatRSS Discovery, the one that
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Home of GolfThe coastal links around
St Andrews are recognized as thebirthplace of golf – the earliest
record of the game being playedhere dates to 1457. Golfing
heritage continues in the city tothis day, and St Andrew’s Royaland Ancient Golf Club remainsthe ruling arbiter of the game.
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If your budget allows,book ahead for dinner atthe Peat Inn (Cupar) or theOld Course (St Andrews)– see p89 for both.
Leave Edinburgh around9am, cross the Forth RoadBridge (£1 toll) and visitDeep Sea World at NorthQueensferry (see p85).The fish will enthral you,so allow at least 90minutes here.
Follow the coast road toKirkcaldy, Glenrothes andFalkland. Here, havesome refreshment in thedeliciously organic Green-
house Restaurant beforevisiting Falkland Palace.Remember to see theRoyal Tennis Court beforeyou leave – it’s unique.
You may be hungry by now,but resist, as it’s only ashort drive via Glenrothesand the A915 to UpperLargo, where the famousEast Neuk begins. Everyvillage from here on isenchanting. Lunch in Elie
at the Ship Inn (see p89).
From here it’s pointlesstrying to advise youfurther because – as youcontinue along the coastto St Andrews, passingthrough Pittenweem,Anstruther and Crail –you are bound to becomedistracted by this medleyof coastal idylls and endup doing your very ownthing regardless.
But don’t forget yourreservation if you’vebooked dinner, and leaveall the delights of StAndrews for another day.All this in just 95 miles(150 km)!
An East Coast Drive
Morning
Afternoon
carried Scott and his companionson their ill-fated expedition. (Whilein Dundee check out the Contem-porary Arts Centre on Nethergatefor great exhibitions and its finebistro-café.) d Dundee • Map E5 • (01382) 201245 • www.rrsdiscovery.com• Easter–31 Oct: 10am–5pm daily (from11am Sun); 1 Nov–Easter: 10am–4pm daily(11am Sun) • Adm
Glamis CastleA royal residence since 1372,
this is a magical castle (see p46).A mass of towers and turrets,ancient treasures and a link withShakespeare’s Macbeth – couldyou ask for any more in a castle?• (01307) 840393 • www.glamis-castle.co.uk • Apr–Oct
PitlochryThis tartan-and-tweed town
has a long history of servingvisitors. Its proximity toPerthshire’s beauty spots andsporting estates was the originaldraw, but now it boasts a finetheatre, as well as a fish ladder,where salmon leap up a series ofpools to reach their spawninggrounds. A perfect introduction tothe joys of Scotland. d Map E4/5 • www.pitlochry.org.uk • Theatre(May–Oct): (01796) 484626; • Fish Ladder(free) & Visitor Centre (adm) Apr–Oct:10am–5:30pm daily
Glamis Castle
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Best of the Restwalks, or plan a long trek toLochnagar and Loch Muick –tough hiking, but sensational. d Map E5
Scottish Fisheries MuseumIt’s hard to believe just how
fascinating boats, nets and fishcan be. First-class overview ofthe history of the fish supper. d Anstruther • Map F5 • (01333) 310628• www.scottish-fisheries-museum.org • Adm
Verdant WorksVoted “European Industrial
Museum of the Year”, this is aninvigorating presentation of thejute industry, the material uponwhich Dundee founded its urbaneconomy. d Dundee • Map E5 • (01382)225282 • www.verdantworks.com • Adm
KilliecrankieThe combined attractions of
a famous battle site and an idyllicriver gorge. Admire the famousSoldier’s Leap, but don’t try it!Queen Victoria loved this spot(and she was famously hard toplease). d Pitlochry • Map E4/5
Montrose BasinWildlife Centre
Internationally-important tidal basinand mecca for seafowland waders. In autumn35,000 pink-footedgeese stop here torefuel during theirsouthward migration.d Map E6 • (01674) 676336• www.swt.org.uk • Adm
Blair CastleA bright white castle, impres-
sive in terms of size, location andcontents (the Bonnie Prince left hisgloves and pipe here, see p47).
DunkeldA village of great charm and
character, with its restored his-toric street, the noble ruins of its14th-century cathedral and gor-geous riverside walks. d Map E5
Arbroath AbbeyImpressive ruins, but most
famous for the “Declaration ofArbroath”, Scotland’s eloquentcharter for independence, a copyof which is on show. d Map E6 •Apr–Sep: 9:30am–6:30pm daily; Oct–Mar:9:30am–4:30pm daily • Adm
Forth BridgesTwo outstanding examples
of engineering, one a red giantof Victorian muscle, the other amodern suspended thread. Bestseen lit up at night. d Map F5
Glen IslaVery picturesque
glen noted for its rareplants. At the end, aformer drove roadclimbs to give won-derful views fromMonega Hill and GlasMaol. d Map E5
Glen ClovaA knife-cut glen of
wild scenery. Drive tothe end for the best
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d Auchmithie, Nr Abroath • Map E6• (01241) 877223 • ££
63 Tay StreetThis restaurant is the talk of
the town. Award-winning youngchef Jeremy Wares serves nou-velle cuisine in a clean, minimalistsetting. It tastes and looks as ifevery ingredient has been hand-picked. d 63 Tay St, Perth • Map E5• (01738) 441451 • ££££
Andrew FairlieFrench cuisine of the highest
calibre served amid dreamy 1920sdécor (see p65). d Gleneagles Hotel• Map F4 • (01764) 694267 • £££££
Moulin HotelA much-cherished old hotel
which serves food but is mostfamous for its smoke-lined barand its own brewery next door(Moulin Light and Ale of Atholl).d 11–13 Kirkmichael Rd, Moulin, nrPitlochry • Map E5 • (01796) 472196 • ££
Ship Inn Plain no-nonsense food
served in a converted boathouseoverlooking the harbour of thismuch-photographed village. Barbelow, bistro above. d Elie, nr An-struther • Map F5 • (01333) 330246 • ££
The CellarA seafood heaven off a court-
yard behind the Fisheries Museum(see opposite). One meat dish,plus some of the best fish inScotland (see p65). d Anstruther,Fife • Map F5 • (01333) 310378 • ££££
Glen Clova HotelSituated at the end of a
lovely glen is this hotel andrestaurant. A simple all-daymenu provides such staples ashaddock, venison and home-made pies, while slightly moreelaborate dishes are served fordinner. d Glen Clova, Nr Kirriemuir• Map E5 • (01575) 550350 • ££
Old Course HotelImbued with golfing heritage
yet retaining a refreshingly lightair, this is dining at its finest. Vir-tuoso chef Mark Lindsey and awine list of 200 bins. Smart dressand tie preferred. d St Andrews• Map F5 • (01334) 474371 • £££££
The Peat Inn Exceptional food and range
of wine at the fairest prices. Thisrestaurant is an enduring favourite(see p65). d Cupar • Map F5 • (01334)840206 • £££
Castleton House HotelCosy country house with
bright dining room and a presti-gious menu. Everything frommarbled terrine of woodpigeonto mushroom polenta cake withbok choi. d Glamis • Map E5 • (01307)840340 • ££££
The But ’n’ BenWithin the white walls of
this old fisherman’s cottage sea-food is the speciality, naturallyenough (especially ArbroathSmokies, see p65). Also goodvenison and local produce.
Places to Eat and Drink
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£ under £15££ £15–£25
£££ £25–£35££££ £35–£50
£££££ over £50
Price Categories
For a three-coursemeal for one with halfa bottle of wine (orequivalent meal), taxesand extra charges.
Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards and serve vegetarian meals
90
EDINBURGH MAY BE THE PRETTY SISTER, but Glasgow has the more dynamiccharacter, as exemplified by the outgoing and friendly Glaswegians. From
the highs and lows of its past, the city has endured to reinvent itself today asa centre of culture, cuisine, shopping and entertainment. Magnificent buildingsare scattered right across the city, while the patronage of wealthy collectorshas ensured the exceptional quality of Glasgow’s museums and galleries.
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For up-to-the-minute information on Glasgow’s attractions, check out www.seeglasgow.com
1 Kelvingrove Art
Collection
2 Gallery of Modern Art
3 City Chambers
4 Glasgow Cathedral
and Necropolis
5 People’s Palace
6 Museum of Transport
7 Science Centre
8 Glasgow Botanical
Gardens
9 House for an Art Lover
0 Burrell Collection
and Pollok Park
Sights
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HUNTERIANART GALLERY
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Though the art collection may have temporarily relocated, Kelvin-grove Park is still an excellent place for a stroll, with great views
Kelvingrove ArtCollection
The most visited collectionin Scotland has paintingsof inestimable value,including works byBotticelli, Giorgione(The Adulteress broughtbefore Christ) andRembrandt. Its out-standing representationof 17th-century Dutchand 19th-century Frenchart is augmented by thehome-grown talent of theGlasgow Boys and the ScottishColourists. Note: the KelvingroveMuseum and Gallery will beclosed for a major refit between2003 and 2006; the best worksfrom the collection will be ondisplay at the McLellan Galleries.d McLellan Galleries, 270 Sauchiehall St• Map S2 • (0141) 565 4100 • www.glasgowmuseums.com • 10am–5pmMon–Thu & Sat; 11am–5pm Fri & Sun
Gallery of Modern ArtOr, more correctly, a “Gallery
of Astonishment”. Some worksare awesome and immediatelygrab your attention, others aredeviously clever and quite a feware outrageously funny. A moderncollection, then, that positivelybegs for mass appeal. Exhibitschange frequently, but the ethos
remains essentially the same.Look out for Laurence Stephen
Lowry’s Seascape, whichalthough does not feature
Lowry’s trademark“matchstick” people, itdoes symbolize hissense of completedespair and isolation.d Royal Exchange Sq • Map T3• (0141) 229 1996 • 10am–5pmdaily (from 11am Fri & Sun)• Free
City Chambers“Palace” would be a more
appropriate term, for this is thefinest seat of any council inBritain, and Glasgow’s mostprestigious building. Modelled onClassical Italian architecture, thebuilding was designed by WilliamYoung and completed in 1888.The exterior is dramatic enough,but the interior is an exercise inthe excesses of lavish décor.Aberdeen granite, Carraramarble, mahogany, gold leaf,frescoes, mosaics, pillars andbalustrades are combined toastonishing effect. TheBanqueting Hall is surelymodelled on a dandy’s vision ofheaven. d George Sq • Map U3• (0141) 287 4018 • www.glasgow.gov.uk• By official tour only: 10:30am & 2:30pmMon–Fri (phone to confirm)
Kelvingrove Museum and Art Gallery by Kelvingrove Park
Gallery of Modern Art
92
Glasgow Cathedral and Necropolis
Immense and ancient, thiscathedral was ranked by the Popein 1451 as equal in merit to Romeas a place of pilgrimage. Foundedaround 1250 and completed acentury later, it has been in con-tinuous use since then and canboast original roof timbers. Thechoir screen is unique in Scotland,and the stained glass exceptional.On a hill to the cathedral’s eastlooms the Necropolis, anextravagance of tombstones,crowned by a monument to JohnKnox (see p11). d Cathedral Square• Map V2 • (0141) 552 6891 • Apr–Sep:9:30am–6pm Mon–Sat, 1–5pm Sun;Oct–Mar: closes 4pm daily
People’s PalaceTypically Glaswegian, this is
a museum of ordinary life. Noth-ing fancy or outstandingly old,but a fascinating insight into howthe average family lived, workedand played in the not-so-distantpast. The Winter Gardens are con-nected to the museum and makea tranquil spot to rearrange yourthoughts. d Glasgow Green • Map V1• (0141) 554 0223 • www.glasgow.gov.uk• 10am–5pm daily (from 11am Fri & Sun)
Museum of TransportBicycles, cars, lorries, buses,
trains, fire engines … hundredsand hundreds of everything on
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wheels in acres of gleaming metal-work. You can walk through orclimb into the larger vehicles, or sitin an original Glasgow tram. Up-stairs are 250 model ships illustrat-ing the story of Clyde shipbuilding.Watch out for the penny on thecobbles of the re-created 1938shopping street – but don’t try topick it up, or you could be thereall day. d 1 Bunhouse Road • Map U1• (0141) 287 2720 • www.glasgowmuseums.com • 10am–5pm daily (from11am Fri & Sun)
Science CentreMyriad puzzles, experiments
and demonstrations to entertainand inform. There’s also an IMAXscreen and a revolving tower – asensational place (see pp18–19).
Botanical Gardens Positively bulging with
greenery and colour, these gar-dens are a favourite with locals
St MungoIt was a priest called St Mungo
who laid the foundations ofGlasgow, when he set up a monas-
tery here in the 6th century. Asettlement grew up around themonastery and prospered longafter the demise of that early
religious community. St Mungo’sbody lies beneath the cathedral,
and his name is given to amuseum of religious art (see p94).
Science Centre
Glasgow Cathedral
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Leave at 9:30am and buy aFirst Day Ticket for Tourists(£4 unlimited travel on Firstbuses from 9:30am tomidnight). Purchase theticket as you board a No.45 bus to the Burrell
Collection. Allow twohours to take in the scopeof this amazing museum,and make sure you seethe Old Masters paintings.
Return to the city centreand take a 66 or 41 (every10 mins) to the Botanical
Gardens. (If you do thistour on Fri or Sun, reversethe order and visit theBotanics first as the Burrellwon’t be open until 11am)
Lunch at the gardens,either with a picnic in thegrounds or at one of themany cafés along theByres Road, opposite theBotanics entrance.
Take one of the manybuses heading back intothe centre of Glasgow,and get off at Sauchiehall
Street. Walk and shopyour way along, taking aright at Buchanan Street.Call in for coffee at thePrinces Square shoppingcentre (see p94), a greatplace to watch people.Continue on to theGallery of Modern Art
(see p91) – this galleryhas plenty of light-heartedworks and gives, ratherthan takes, energy.
Finally, stroll throughGeorge Square and admirethe City Chambers beforedining at one of the manyrestaurants in the MerchantCity neighbourhood, suchas Babbity Bowster,Café Gondolfi or City
Merchant (see p95).
A Full Day in Glasgow
Morning
Afternoon
and visitors alike. The highlightsare the glasshouses – the mainstructure named Kibble Palace –famous for their orchids andtropicana (see p51).
House for an Art LoverIn 1901 Glasgow’s tour-de-
force architect, Charles RennieMackintosh, and his decorativeartist wife, Margaret Macdonald,entered a magazine competitionto design a “House for an ArtLover”. It was to be “… a grandhouse, thoroughly modern, freshand innovative…” Their exquisitevision remained just a designuntil 1989 when, authentic to thesmallest detail, the building andits contents were created.d Bellahouston Park, Dumbreck Rd• Map U2 • (0141) 353 4770 • www.houseforanartlover.co.uk • 10am–4pm daily(phone to confirm) • Adm
Burrell Collection and Pollok Park
One of the world’s great privatecollections, this is a dazzling andeclectic array of art and artifacts.The presentation is superb in apurpose-designed building sur-rounded by a wooded parkland.This is the best of the bunch inGlasgow (see pp16–17).
Mackintosh piano, House for an Art Lover
94
Best of the RestSt Mungo Museum ofReligious Art
Excellent overview of the world’sreligions through their art. Bestof all is Salvador Dali’s Crucifixion,a unique perspective. d 2 Castle St• Map V2 • (0141) 553 2557
Waverley ExcursionsExperience the past on the
world’s last sea-going paddlesteamer. d Anderston Quay • Map V1• (0845) 130 4647 • www.waverleyexcursions.co.uk • Apr–Oct
Hunterian Art GalleryAnother great gallery, best
known for its Rembrandts, its vir-tual monopoly on the 19th-centurygenius of Whistler and the Mackin-tosh House. d 82 Hillhead St, nrKelvingrove Pk • Map V1 • (0141) 3305431 • www.hunterian.gla.ac.uk • Free
Tenement HouseTenements were standard
Glasgow flats and Agnes Towardlived an ordinary life in this onefor over 50 years. d 145 BuccleuchSt • Map S1 • (0141) 333 0183 •Mar–Oct: 2–5pm daily • Adm
M & D’s Scotland’s Theme Park
A massive adventure park withall the jaw-clenching thrills of thefairground. Rides to suit all agesand nerves (see p60).
Princes SquareLuxurious shopping centre in
a renovated square of 1841 – thegenteel atmosphere is heightened
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by the occasional appearance of apiano player. d 48 Buchanan St • Map T3
Sharmanka KineticGallery
Eduard Bersudsky makes perform-ing contraptions from junk, andthis is his extraordinary theatre.d 2nd floor, 14 King St • Map U3 • (0141)552 7080 • www.sharmanka.com
Glasgow School of ArtStill a working college, this
is Charles Rennie Mackintosh’smost famous building. d 167 Ren-frew St • Map S2 • (0141) 353 4526 •Visits by official tour only • www.gsa.ac.uk
Citizens TheatreAn internationally famous
venue for performances ofclassics. Two modern studioscomplement the old Victorianauditorium. d 119 Gorbals St • Map V1• (0141) 429 0022 • www.citz.co.uk
The BarrasA market full of bargains, not
all of them entirely legal. Riotouslyalive and fascinating, but hold ontight to your wallet. d 54 CaltonEntry • Map V1 • Sat & Sun
M & D’s Scotland’s Theme Park
95
St Jude’sElegant retreat for Glasgow’s
modish people. Loungy in the bar,while the restaurant gains plauditsby the score for its invention andexemplary quality (Pacific rimand European flavours). d 190 BathSt • Map S2 • (0141) 352 8800 • ££££
RoganoA wonderful place to imbibe, in
equal measure, splendid cocktailsand the Art Deco surrounds. Ex-pensive in the main restaurant butfresh seafood a bargain in the bras-serie. d 11 Exchange Pl, off Exchange Sq• Map T3 • (0141) 248 4055 • £££–£££££
City MerchantLooking like it’s been around
for aeons (though only in fact sincethe late 1980s), City Merchant isa Gallic-Scottish delight. Alongsidesome meaty mains, fish is thestar. d 97–99 Candleriggs • Map U3• (0141) 553 1577 • £££
Café GondolfiCafé in the broadest sense:
breakfast, coffee, afternoon teaand all main meals and snacks inbetween. A seasonal eveningmenu scampers the larders ofEurope. d 64 Albion St • Map U3• (0141) 552 6813 • ££
Babbity BowsterStout white building with a
welcoming Scottish interior thatevokes a distant rural life. Greatpub and restaurant with rooms(see also p146). d 16 Blackfriars St• Map U3 • (0141) 552 5055 • ££
Brian Maule at ChardonD’Or
A true fine dining experiencethat should not be missed. Thechef Brian Maule combines thegreatness of classic french cuisinewith modern dishes that use topquality Scottish produce. d 170West Regent St • (0141) 248 3801 • ££££
Ubiquitous ChipOn a cobbled road in the West
End stands this home to 30 yearsof culinary excellence. Always achampion of Scottish produce,this is Glasgow at its most endear-ing. d 12 Ashton La, off Byres Rd, Hillhead• Map U1 • (0141) 334 5007 • ££££
StravaiginWhere the nation’s fish, beef,
lamb and game are mixed withthe world’s sauces, herbs andspices. Eclectic mix of flavours, butStravaigin’s judicious touch winsthe day. d 28–30 Gibson St, Hillhead• Map U/V1 • (0141) 334 2665 • £££
FirebirdPopular hangout for drinks
and great pizzas – simple andconsistently good. d 1321 Argyle St,nr Museum of Transport • Map U1• (0141) 334 0594 • ££
Fratelli SartiVery Italian. Lively, crowded
and displaying a genuine love offood in a living, breathing, every-day sense. Restaurant on Bath St,with a café and deli round thecorner. d 121 Bath St/133 Wellington St• Map T2 • (0141) 204 0440 • ££
Places to Eat and Drink
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£ under £15££ £15–£25
£££ £25–£35££££ £35–£50
£££££ over £50
Price Categories
For a three-coursemeal for one with halfa bottle of wine (orequivalent meal), taxesand extra charges.
Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards and serve vegetarian meals
96
Statue of Robert the Bruce at
Stirling Castle
THIS BUCOLIC REGION BECAME THE FOCUS of Scotland’s first touristindustry in early Victorian times, and, with Loch Lomond and the Trossachs
National Park at its splendid centre, that allure remains asstrong today. In the west are the rocky peaks of the Isle ofArran and a seaboard of fjord-like lochs, where a mildclimate supports some splendid gardens. In the eaststands Stirling – a key town in the country’s warring past –its mighty clifftop castle overlooking lush farmland.Here, William Wallace and Robert the Bruce fought forindependence, a battle eventually won within sight ofthe castle on the field of Bannockburn.
North and West of Glasgow
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Brodick Castle
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Bannockburn
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Luss
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Hamilton
KilmarnockIrvine
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Claonaig
Kennacraig
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Falkirk
Stirling
GreenockDunoon
Largs
WemyssBay
JohnstonePaisley
DumbartonAlexandriaBalloch
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Drymen
Balmaha
EastKilbride
NewLanark
Callander
Dunblane
Lochgilphead
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Inveraray
Crarae
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Kilmelford
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BannockburnHeritage Centre
The site of the decis-ive battle in 1314 (seep32) is marked by avisitor centre and anarresting equestrianstatue of Robert theBruce. At the centre,kids can try on hel-mets and chainmail,and view Bruce’s caveto watch the fabledspider who inspired him to renewhis fight. d Map F4 • Site open all year• Heritage Centre: 10am–4:30pm daily(10:30am–4pm Nov–Mar) • Adm
Wallace MonumentErected in 1869, this 75-m
(250-ft) tower commemoratesWilliam Wallace and his valiantfight for Scotland’s independence.The climb to the top takes inWallace’s two-handed broad-sword, but most electrifying ofall is the “talking head”, whichpresents Wallace’s defence beforehis brutal execution in 1305.Splendid 360-degree views fromthe top. d Map F4 • 10am–4pm (to 5pmMar–Oct, to 6pm Jun–Aug) daily • Adm
Stirling CastleA commanding rock-top
castle, concealing architecture ofan exceptional quality, mostnotably the restored Great Halland the Royal Palace (see also
p46). d Map F4 • (01786) 450000• Apr–Sep: 9:30am–6pm daily; Oct–Mar:9:30am–5pm daily • Adm
Blair Drummond Safariand Adventure Park
As if elephants, rhinos, zebras,giraffes, lions, meercats and ring-tailed lemurs weren’t enough, youcan also see your first lechwe(unless, of course, you’re alreadyau fait with these African ante-lopes). Beyond the animal life,this is also a terrific play centre,with a giant Astraglide, a FlyingFox and pedalos for getting toChimpanzee Island. d Map F4 •(01786) 841456 • www.blairdrummond.com• Mar–Sep: 10am–5.30pm daily • Adm
Loch Lomond and theTrossachs National Park
The broad, friendly mountains andpoetic scenery of Scotland’s firstnational park are ideal for thecasual walker and watersport
lover. Luss is theprettiest village. Ithosts a popular High-land Games (seepp58–9) in June andhas a welcoming teashop or two. Cruisesrun from here, and fromBalloch, Tarbet and Bal-maha. d Loch LomondShores Visitor Centre • MapF4 • (01389) 721500 • www.lochlomondshores.com
Stirling Castle Grand Battery
Trossachs National Park
For a fabulous place to stay by the shores of Loch Lomond seeCameron House (p147)
98
Inveraray CastleDespite the ravages of fire,
clan Campbell’s family seat is asplendid pseudo-Gothic palacewith pointed towers marking itscorners. It was built for the Dukeof Argyll in 1745. The lavishinteriors were designed byRobert Mylne and containRegency furniture and pricelessworks of art. The Armoury wasstocked to fight the Jacobitesand is an awesome display ofweaponry. If you have time (it’s
about a 90-minute round trip)walk to the hilltop folly in
the grounds.
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Arduaine GardensA dazzling assembly of
rhododendrons, azaleas, mag-nolias and hosts of exotics fromthe Pacific Islands to the Hima-layas. Arduaine is beautifullysituated on a promontorybetween sea lochs, and gloriesin the warm winds from the GulfStream (see p51).
Crarae Gardens You don’t have to be a
rhododendron specialist to bebowled over by this beautifullymanicured orchestration ofcolour. An outstanding and rarecollection, which is at its best inspring (see p51).
Rothesay Castle, ButeBy virtue of its age, design
and deep-water moat (one ofonly two remaining in Scotland),this is a remarkable medievalcastle. Built around 1098 in thedays of Norse occupation, it wasrestyled in the 13th century and
The Wonderful World of Crarae Gardens
Lady Grace Campbell laid out thegardens in the 1920s, making
exciting use of plant specimensthat her nephew Reginald Farrerbrought back from his travels toTibet and the Himalayas. On the
higher ground is the forest-garden,a feature found nowhere else in
Britain, where over 100 treespecies grow under forest
conditions on their own plots.Crarae is of international impor-
tance and a member of “GloriousGardens of Argyll and Bute”
(www.gardens-of-argyll.co.uk).
Inveraray Castle
Arduaine Gardens
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Reserve your morningcruise on the SS Sir
Walter Scott (Tel (01877)376316) in advance, andnote that it does not runon Wednesday mornings.
Leave Glasgow by 8:45am,driving north on the A81 toStrathblane and Aberfoyle.You are now in the scenicand famous Trossachs.Park at the Trossachs Pierfor your 11am cruise onLoch Katrine, a gorgeoussecluded loch.
You arrive back at 12:45pmand a short drive takes youto Kilmahog (great name,but the Woollen Mill ispretty touristy), so pass itby unless you’re overlycurious about knitwear.Head on to Callander forlunch, where there’s plentyof choice, or buy deliciouspies at the Scotch Oven, asuperb baker, and picnicby the river.
Carry on to Doune, Dun-blane and Bridge of Allan.There are many tempta-tions en route – castle(see p100), safari park,motor museum – and youmay fall by the way.
If not, however, aim to beat the Wallace Monument
before 4pm. The slice ofhistory here is extremelypalatable, accompanied bypanoramic views of thearea, including the craggyheights of Stirling Castle.
Finally, wend your way upinto moorland for dinner atthe Sheriffmuir Inn (seep101). Either head back toGlasgow or go further eastto stay at Edinburgh or StAndrews (about an hour’sjourney to each by car).
A Day in the Trossachs
Morning
Afternoon
fitted with high curtain walls anddrum towers. Its circular court-yard is a curious feature andunique in Scotland. Bute itself isa mere 35-minute crossing fromWemyss Bay – north of Largs onthe A78 – to Rothesay Bay; aneven shorter crossing is fromColintraive to Rhubodach, on the north coast of the island.d Map F3 • (01700) 502691 • Apr–Sep:9:30am–6:30pm daily; Oct–Mar: 9:30am–4:30pm Mon–Thu & Sat (closed Thu pm),2–4:30pm Fri & Sun • Adm
Brodick Castle, ArranOriginally a Viking keep
before the Dukes of Hamiltonclaimed it, this 13th-centuryfortified tower was extended byOliver Cromwell and then trans-formed into a stately home inVictorian times. The last Hamiltonmoved out only in 1957. A solidred sandstone building withfanciful trimmings, it contains anoted collection of silver, por-celain and paintings. The gardensare beautifully maintained (try tocatch the rhododendrons in springbloom), as are the woodland trails.The main ferry to Arran (just underan hour) is from Ardrossan, onthe mainland coast, just north ofIrvine. d Map G3 • (01770) 302202 • www.nts.org.uk • Castle open Apr–Oct:10am–5pm daily; Park open all year:9:30am–sunset daily • Adm
Brodick Castle
100
Best of the RestCrinan CanalTake a stroll along this scenic
9-mile (16-km) canal, completedin 1801 and now used by yachtsand fishing boats. The best placesto see them are at Ardrishaig,Cairnbaan or Crinan. d Map F3
Auchindrain TownshipA novel outdoor museum of
restored thatched cottages andoutbuildings, showing the paststyles of West Highland life. d NrInveraray • Map F3 • (01499) 500235 • Apr–Sep: 10am–5pm daily
Scottish Crannog CentreThe little-known and ancient
art of building crannogs (defensivehomesteads built on stilts in lochs)has been rediscovered here atLoch Tay. Beware – underwaterarchaeologists at work. d Kenmore• Map E4 • (01887) 830583 • www.crannog.co.uk • Mid-Mar–Oct daily
Kintyre Paul McCartney sang about
this glorious peninsula which hasmiles of beaches, a top golfcourse (Machrihanish) and theethereal cave crucifixion paintingon Davaar Island. d Map G3 • TouristInfo (08707) 200609
Kilmartin GlenInhabited for 5,000 years, this
glen has a phenomenal concen-tration of archaeological remains:standing stones, temples andburial cairns. Pause at KilmartinChurch for the best collection ofearly Christian crosses. d Map F3
Kilchurn CastleHauntingly atmospheric ruins
of a Campbell castle, built in 1440on an island in Loch Awe. Visiblefrom many vantage points, or youcan go there by boat. d Map E3• Boat trips (01866) 833333 • Open access
ObanBusy harbour town best
viewed from McCaig’s Folly. Manylocal attractions and ferries toMull, Coll, Colonsay, Tiree andthe Western Isles. d Map E3• Tourist Info (08707) 200630
Doune CastleThis 14th-century castle has
a magical air. Most enchanting isthe Lord’s Hall, with its musicians’gallery, double fireplace and oakscreen. d Map F4 • (01786) 841742 • Closed Thu & Fri in winter
Hollow Mountain Power Station
Tunnels and huge undergroundcaverns house this massive hydro-electric plant. Like a science-fiction set, it is fascinating andrather weird. d Nr Lochawe • Map E3• (01866) 822618 • Easter to mid-Nov:9:30am–5pm daily (to 6pm in Aug) • Adm
Bonawe Historic Iron Furnace
The best-preserved charcoal-fuelled ironworks in Britain. Learnhow iron was made here in 1753in this lovely setting by Loch Etive.d Taynuilt • Map E3 • (01866) 822432• www.historic-scotland.gov.uk • Apr–Sep:9:30am–6:30pm daily • Adm
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Sheriffmuir InnThis middle-of-nowhere
former coaching inn is now atrendy restaurant well worthcrossing the moor to find.Nothing exotic, but good food atgood prices. d Nr Bridge of Allan &Dunblane • Map F4 • (01786) 823285• ££
Airds HotelThe Michelin star first
stopped overhead in 1990, andthis country hotel restauranthasn’t looked back since (seep65). d Port Appin, Appin • Map E3• (01631) 730236 • £££££
Creagan HouseWinning awards left, right
and centre, this converted 17th-century farmhouse is a secretabout to break. From quail tolocal lamb, this is good food at asurprisingly low price. d Strathyre• Map F4 • (01877) 384638 • ££
Tigh-an-TruishOld-world inn by the famous
“Bridge over the Atlantic”. His-toric and wonderful, you stillexpect pirates to breeze in. Realale and delicious pub grub.d Clachan, Isle of Seil • Map F3 • (01852)300242 • ££
Kilmartin House Café An adjunct of the Kilmartin
Museum, this light-lunch café ismainly vegetarian but does excel-lent venison burgers. Home bakingand great coffee. d Kilmartin • MapF3 • (01546) 510278 • £
The Roman CampVoluptuous curtains, deep
sofas and blazing fires make thiscountry hotel a delight, and therestaurant excels. Their guineafowl breast with truffle noodlesis a winner. d Callander • Map F4(01877) 330003 • £££££
Chatters Unnoteworthy in appearance
or location, but excellent food.Bar menu and à la carte in acottage atmosphere. Eat outsidein summer. d 58 John St, Dunoon• Map F3 • (01369) 706402 • Wed–Satonly, lunch and dinner • £–£££
Loch Fyne Oyster BarLong-established in this con-
verted stone cattle byre, theoyster bar offers two vegetariandishes daily and an ocean of thefreshest seafood. Bring a heartyappetite and have a go at thelobster platter. d Cairndow, nr Inveraray• Map F3 • (01499) 600236 • £££
The Drover’s InnA flagstone floor, cobwebbed
walls and a menagerie of stuffedanimals to fight your way past –it’s quite an experience. Pub gruband beer flow all day. d Inverarnan,on Loch Lomond • Map F4 • (01301)704234 • ££
Cromlix House Distinguished restaurant
showcasing the best of Scottishproduce. Small choice, but cookedto perfection. d Kinbuck, By Dunblane• Map F4 • (01786) 822125 • £££££
Places to Eat and Drink
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Left Creagan House Right Loch Fyne Oyster Bar
Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards and serve vegetarian meals
£ under £15££ £15–£25
£££ £25–£35££££ £35–£50
£££££ over £50
Price Categories
For a three-coursemeal for one with halfa bottle of wine (orequivalent meal), taxesand extra charges.
102
Carrbridge, near the Cairngorms
THE NORTHEASTERN CORNER OF SCOTLAND – a veritable medley oflandscapes – is home to equally diverse industries, from the traditions of
farming, fishing and distilling to the the more recent business of North Seaoil extraction. The high granite massif of the Cairngorms is Scotland’s primecentre for mountain sports. Then comes the forested splendour of RoyalDeeside – Queen Victoria’s beloved retreat – and the quilted fields of Buchan’srich farmland. Along the river Spey is the heartland of whisky production,while on the coast are beaches, cliffs and enchanting fishing villages.
Grampian and Moray
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CRATHESCASTLE
CRAIGIEVAR CASTLE
CORGARFFCASTLE
GLENLIVETDISTILLERY
GLENFARCLASDISTILLERY
MACALLANDISTILLERYCARDHU
DISTILLERY
DRUM CASTLEAberdeen
PitmeddenGarden
FyvieCastle
DunottarCastle
Balmoral
CawdorCastle
FortGeorge
Tomintoul
Colnabaichin
Inverness
Nairn
Elgin
Forres
BuckiePortsoy Macduff
Crovie
GardenstownBanff
Fraserburgh
Ellon
Keith
HuntlyDufftown
Inverurie
Fyvie
TurriffPeterhead
Stonehaven
Aboyne
Alford
BallaterCrathie
Ballindalloch
Craigellachie
Glenshee
Braemar
Grantown-on-Spey
Aviemore
Kingussie
Banchory
Cromarty
Lossiemouth
Dee
Don
yepSFindh
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Moray Firth
A9
A9
A9
A95
A96
A96
A98
A90
A90
A93
A90
A93
Ben Macdui1309m
Cairn Gorm1245m
CairngormMountains
02040 20 40miles km
1 Aberdeen
2 Dunottar Castle
3 Pitmedden Garden
4 Fyvie Castle
5 The Whisky Trail
6 Balmoral Castle and
Royal Deeside
7 Cairngorms
8 Cawdor Castle
9 Fort George
0 Moray Coast Villages
Sights
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For more information on Aberdeen, check out the city’s website:www.aberdeencity.gov.uk
AberdeenThe “Granite City” has
beautiful buildings, year-roundfloral displays and a long beachfringed with entertainments,including the Beach LeisureCentre (see p61) and theSatrosphere, a science discoverycomplex. Provost Skene’s House(once home of a 17th-centuryprovost, or mayor, of Aberdeen)is the oldest building, datingfrom 1545, while MarischalCollege is one of the world’slargest granite edifices. TheMaritime Museum (charting thenautical world from ship-buildingto ship wrecks) is outstanding,as is the Art Gallery, which mixestemporary contemporary showswith a collection spanning the18th–20th centuries. d Map D6• Satrosphere, 179 Constitution St (01224)640340 • Maritime Museum, Shiprow(01224) 337700 • Art Gallery, Schoolhill(01224) 523700 • Provost Skene’s Ho,Guestrow (01224) 641086
Dunottar CastleFew castles can match
Dunottar’s magnificent setting –it stands heroically isolated on astupendous rock – and fewcastles have endured suchintense bombardments. In 1651,while harbouring the Scottishregalia (which weresecretly smuggledout by a bravewoman), it with-stood an eight-month siege by theEnglish. It’s dun-geons, too, havewitnessed ex-ceptional sufferingsand deaths. 800years of attack havetaken their toll, butDunottar remains analmost mythicalsight, especially at
sunrise. d Nr Stonehaven • Map E6• (01569) 762173 • Easter–Oct: 9am–6pmMon–Sat, 2–5pm Sun; Nov–Easter:9:30am–sunset Fri–Mon (closed mid-week) • Adm
Pitmedden GardenThe striking patterns and
symmetry of the formal GreatGarden is like no other. Originallylaid out in 1675, the elaboratefloral designs were meticulouslyrecreated. The effect is stunning.Also here are idyllic pond andwildlife gardens, and a Museum ofFarming Life (see p51). d Map D6
King’s College, Aberdeen
Pitmedden Garden
104
Fyvie CastleDating from 1390, this for-
midable building is one of thefinest examples of ScottishBaronial architecture. Its lifethrough the ages istestified by the mix ofcontemporary panel-ling, 17th-centuryplasterwork and atreasure trove ofcollectable paintings.Be sure to visit therestored 18th-centurywalled garden, whichspecializes in Scottishfruit and vegetables. dNr Turriff • Map D6 • LateMar–end Jun & Sep: noon–5pm Fri–Tue; Jul & Aug: 11am–5pm daily • Adm
The Whisky TrailSeven of Scotland’s finest
malt whisky distilleries invite youinside. Apart from the magic of
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the shining copper stills, the once-secretive process of whisky-making is revealed, enthusiasminfused and uisge beatha (“waterof life”) consumed (see p31).
Balmoral andRoyal Deeside
Bordering the salmonpools of the River Dee,Queen Victoria boughtthis castle – her “dearparadise” – in 1852.Balmoral remains theholiday home of themonarch to this dayand, consequently,the rolling countrysidearound the banks of
the river has taken on the royalmoniker. Cast an eye round thecastle’s sumptuous ballroom, thenmake the most of the enchantingforest walks. d Map D5 • (01339)742534 • www.balmoralcastle.com• Apr–31 Jul: 10am–5pm daily • Adm
CairngormsA superb range of mountain
peaks surrounded by pine forestsand lochs. Ideal for testing walks,lively watersports and inspiringscenery (see pp30–31).
Cawdor CastleA private home, handed
down through the generationssince the time when Macbethlived here … or so legend has it.
Victoria and Albert’sBalmoral
It was the riverside setting thatVictoria fell for in 1848 when shefirst visited Balmoral. And it washer husband Albert who workedwith the Aberdeen-born architectWilliam Smith to create the whitegranite palace that replaced the
old castle and stands here still, amedley of fantastical turretstypical of the Baronial style.
Balmoral
Speyside cooperage sign
105
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For a suggested walk along the Moray Coast see pp62–3
Leave Aberdeen around9am and drive on the A93through Deeside’ssplendid scenery toCrathie, where you’ll findBalmoral Castle openingits gates. If, however,you’re outside Balmoral’sshort opening season (seep104), then visit Crathes
or Drum Castle instead –less famous, but equallyimpressive (see p106).
Return to Ballater, whichyou passed through on theway, but take the B976 onthe south of the river. TheStation Restaurant doesall-day meals, anythingfrom a bacon sandwich orpain au chocolat to athree-course meal.
While browsing the shopsin Ballater, Look out forroyal insignias: theyindicate the Queen’sfavourite establishments.
From Ballater find theA939 and drive north on atwisting road. The terrainis wild, heathery moorlandand mountainous. Theroad takes you past quaintand lonely Corgarff
Castle, and on toTomintoul, one of thehighest villages inScotland. From here, takethe B9008 to the distilleryof Glenlivet for a tour oftheir whisky-making vats,stills and barrels, and atasting. Tours last about40 minutes; the tastings,unfortunately, much less.
Spend the night aroundDufftown or Keith with aview to driving to Portsoyand taking the coast roadeither east or west thenext day. About 90 miles(150 km) in total.
A Day’s Driving Tour
Morning
Afternoon
Full of history and delight, creepyrelics, magnificent trees and a gar-den maze (see also p47). d Nr Nairn• Map D4 • (01667) 404615 • May–Oct:10am–5pm daily • Adm • www.cawdorcastle.com
Fort GeorgeOn a peninsula jutting into
the Moray Firth is this vast fortcomplex, built at enormousexpense 250 years ago and stillused as an army barracks today.Immensely impressive defencesnow guard a vintage armoury.Check out the special summerevents (see p25). • (01667) 460232
Moray Coast VillagesThese charming communi-
ties thrived in the herring boomof the 19th century, but todayonly Lossiemouth, Buckie (withits excellent Drifter Museum),Macduff and Fraserburgh continueas fishing ports. Crovie (pronoun-ced “crivie”) is the pick of thebunch. Access is by foot only, itspicturesque street strung outbelow cliffs – a fabulous setting.The walk to Gardensown is anadventure for the sure-footed (seepp62–3). Findhorn – famous for itsspiritual community – is beautifullylocated on a sandy lagoon. A tourof the coastal road (highly recom-mended) will reveal a dozen othervillages, each with its own uniquecharacter to divine. d Map C5–6
The Moray Coast
106
Best of the RestDuff House Gallery This astonishingly secret off-
shoot of the National Galleries ofScotland is housed in an exquisiteGeorgian mansion. The collectionincludes works by Scottish greatsRamsay and Raeburn, as well asEl Greco. d Banff • Map C6 • (01261)818181 • www.duffhouse.org.uk
Elgin CathedralOnce known as “the Lantern
of the North”, this cathedral wasburned out of spite by the Wolfof Badenoch in 1390, but itsruins still draw a crowd. d Map C5• (01343) 547171
Dallas Dhu DistilleryWhen this working distillery
closed it was preserved as a timecapsule of whisky-making from1898 to 1980. Beautifully done,and with a traditional free dram!d Forres, nr Nairn • Map C5 • (01309)676548 • Closed Thu & Fri in winter
StonehavenQuaint seaside resort with a
harbour, an open-air Olympic-sizeswimming pool and a giant, play-able draughts (checkers) board.Birds wheel and soar around thecliffs and Dunottar Castle (p103)is a short drive away. d Map E6
Kildrummy CastleThe once “noblest of north-
ern castles” is now a grandioseruin. Brilliant in terms of design,it retains many unique 13th-century features. d Nr Alford • MapD5 • (01975) 571331 • Apr–Sep
Moray Firth Dolphins This is the only known resi-
dent population (they numberaround 130) of bottlenose dol-phins in the North Sea. d Map D4• Info Centre: North Kessock (01463)234353 • Boat trips: (01463) 717900;(01381) 600323; (01381) 622383.
Craigievar CastleA delicate tower house with
the grace and detail of porcelain.Scottish Baronial style at its best,and with some lovely monkey-puzzle trees in the grounds (seep47). • Apr–Sep; Grounds: all year
Drum CastleOne of the three oldest
surviving tower houses in Scot-land, its High Hall unchangedsince medieval times. In fact, ithas been owned by just onefamily for 653 years! d Nr Banchory• Map D6 • (01330) 811204 • www.drum-castle.org.uk • Apr–Sep; Grounds: all year
Crathes CastleAnother exemplary 16th-cen-
tury tower house, with originalfeatures in the Great Hall. Wonder-ful topiary in the ancient yewhedge. d Banchory • Map D6 • (01330)844525 • Apr–Sep; Grounds: all year
Brodie CastleMajestic Z-Plan tower house,
which has survived many attacksand contains a treasury of furni-ture and paintings. In spring 400species of daffodils are in bloom.d Forres, nr Nairn • Map D4 • (01309)641371 • Apr–Sep; Grounds: all year
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Information on many of Scotland’s castles, churches and housescan be found at www.nts.org.uk and www.historic-scotland.gov.uk
107
The Lemon Tree Funky arts centre with bistro-
bar. The best music venue in thenortheast region. Live bands playat weekends. d 5 West North St,Aberdeen • Map D6 • (01224) 642230 • £
Silver DarlingOne of the best restaurants
in the country, this is a seafoodemporium with Aberdeen harbourspread out before you (see p64).d Pocra Quay, Aberdeen Harbour • MapD6 • (01224) 576229 • ££££
The Shore InnAn ale house with atmos-
phere, right by the harbour. Barfood served all day in summerand at weekends in winter. Theplace where the locals eat anddrink. d 49 Church St, Portsoy • MapC5 • (01261) 842831 • ££
The Old MonasterySuperb little hilltop restaurant
with short opening hours, sophone in advance. French-stylefood with panache. d Nr Buckie• Map C5 • (01542) 832660 • Wed–Sat:lunch & dinner; Sun lunch • ££
Archiestown HotelA Speyside hotel that’s
popular with fishermen. Its bistrohas earned a good reputation,and wild salmon is a regularspeciality. Vegetarians shouldgive advance notice. d Main St,Archiestown, nr Craigellachie • Map D5• (01340) 810218 • Closed for 2 weeks in Jan • £££
Ardoe HouseGranite mansion with an up-
market restaurant. A la carte ortable d’hote menus prepared bya much-lauded chef. d SouthDeeside Rd, Blairs, Aberdeen • Map D6• (01224) 860600 • £££
Udny Arms Family-run village pub, full of
character and homeliness – andterrific food. People travel far toeat here; top marks for value.d Main St, Newburgh, north of Aberdeen• Map D6 • (01358) 789444 • ££
Milo’sWith a menu that reflects
the crossover of a French-trainedlocal chef, Milo’s reputation is setto rocket. From high teas to thefinest à la carte dinner, the fantas-tic meals are served in a tiny res-taurant overlooking the harbour.d 2 Crook ‘O’Ness St, Macduff • Map C6• (01261) 831222 • £££
Crynoch RestaurantRustic décor and a Bavarian
chef delivering modern cuisinewith flair. Specialities such as veni-son with fresh local chanterellesor grilled wood pigeon salad gracethe menu. d Lairhillock Inn, Netherley,By Stonehaven • Map E6 • (01569)730001 • www.lairhillock.co.uk • £££
The Green InnA family run restaurant with
specialities that include saddle ofvenison with apple, walnut andsweet peppercorn sauce. d 9 Vic-toria Rd • Map C6 • (01339) 755701 • ££££
Places to Eat and Drink
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Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards and serve vegetarian meals
£ under £15££ £15–£25
£££ £25–£35££££ £35–£50
£££££ over £50
Price Categories
For a three coursemeal for one with halfa bottle of wine (orequivalent meal), taxesand extra charges.
110
THE NAME ALONE EVOKES THOUGHTS of mountains, heather, bagpipes,castles, clans, romance and tragedy. And, indeed, the Highlands has it all.
It is the combination of peerless scenery, enduring traditions and a sense ofnostalgia (albeit for a rather idealized past) that gives the Highlands theirirresistible allure. True, the weather is not always great, but rain brings out thebest in waterfalls and adds artistic touches of mist! It’s a sparsely inhabitedregion, where you may still find single-track roads and more sheep than people.Life takes on a slower pace, and often hotels and restaurants work shorterhours, but the great compensation is peace. Little wonder that so many aspectsof the Highlands have been adopted as symbols of the nation as a whole.
The Highlands
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6 Glenfinnan Monument
and Jacobite Steam Train
7 Ardnamurchan
8 Eilean Donan Castle
9 Torridon
0 Inverewe Gardens
1 Inverness
2 Culloden Battlefield
3 Loch Ness
4 Ben Nevis and
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5 Glencoe
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Fort William
Inverness CullodenBattlefieldLoch Ness
InvereweGardens
Torridon
Eilean DonanCastle
GlenfinnanMonument
Glencoe
Ardnamurchan
Ullapool
Gairloch Poolewe
Red Point
Shieldaig
ApplecrossPlockton
Lochcarron
Kylerhea
Arisaig
Armadale
MallaigInverie
Kilchoan
Lochailort
FortAugustusInvergarry
Kyle ofLochalsh
Strathpeffer
Dornoch
Drumnadrochit
Nairn
Aviemore
Kingussie
Dalwhinnie
Blair Atholl
DingwallGarve
Achnasheen
Cromarty
Glencoe
OnichKinlochleven
Appin
Strontian
Eigg
Skye Glen
Mor
LochMaree
LochLochy
A9
A9
A9
A9
A9
A82A828
A835
A82
A82
A830
A887
A86
A87
A87
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Ben Wyvis1045m
An Teallach1071m
Schiehallion1083m
Five Sisters1065m
Ben Nevis1344m
040 40miles km Glenfinnan Monument
Previous pages Eilean Donan Castle
111
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For more information on the Highlands, check out the regionalwebsite: www.highlandfreedom.com
InvernessA city in name but a bustling
town by nature, Inverness is re-deemed from the blight of itsshamefully dull modern archi-tecture by the majestic redsandstone castle (now thecourt house), fine oldhouses and the beauty ofthe River Ness. InvernessMuseum and Art Galleryinvites “hands on theHighland Heritage” (butyou have to leave theartifacts behind), andthe Aquadome is a fun-packed swimmingcentre. The Islands Walk issublimely peaceful. d Map D4• Tourist Info: Castle Wynd (01463)234353 • Museum & Gallery: CastleWynd; Open Mon–Sat; Adm • Aqua-dome: Bught Park (01463) 667501;Open daily; Adm
Culloden Battlefield16 April, 1746 – the last battle
to take place on British soil anddefeat for Bonnie Prince Charlieand the Jacobites (see pp32–3).The slaughter by the “BloodyButcher’s” (the Duke of Cumber-land’s) Hanoverian army wasquick and brutal. The battlefield isgradually being restored to itsappearance at thetime of thebloodshed. To walkhere among thegraves of the clansis still a peculiarlyemotional experi-ence. The story iswell told andillustrated in thevisitor centre. d Map D4 • VisitorCentre: (01463) 790607;www.nts.org.uk • Apr–Oct: 9am–6pm daily; Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm daily(closed Jan) • Adm
Loch NessIce Age glaciers gouged out
a deep trench along a split in theland mass of Scotland, and theresulting valley is known today asthe Great Glen. Loch Ness is its
cause célèbre, with arrestingviews, the mystery of itsreclusive monster and theevocative ruins of UrquhartCastle. Do not eschew a
visit to the great loch!(See pp24–5.) d Map D4
Ben Nevis and Fort William
Britain’s highest moun-tain is 1,343m (4,406 ft) high andmakes a great walk under goodconditions (see p40). But the peakis frequently shrouded in mist,and the drive up Glen Nevis offersa more reliable reward, takingyou to a lovely waterfall. FortWilliam lies below the mountainand is a major shopping townwith plenty of attractions (seep24). Its West Highland Museumhas many Jacobite relics, andTreasures of the Earth exhibitsglittering heaps of gems. d Map E3• Tourist Info: Cameron Sq, Fort William(01397) 703781 • West HighlandMuseum: Open year-round • Treasuresof the Earth: Closed Dec–Feb
Ben Nevis and Fort William
Culloden Battlefield
112
GlencoeA rugged mountain range
gathered into gorgeous scenerythrough which the twisting mainroad seems to creep submis-sively. A favourite skiing,mountaineering and walkingarea, and infamous for theterrible 1692 massacre of clanMacDonald (see pp26–7).
Glenfinnan Monumentand Jacobite Steam Train
Another memorial to the Jacobiteuprising led by Bonnie PrinceCharlie (pp32–3), this time on thesite where his campaign began.Here, a visitor centre explains thehistory. The monument is impres-sive, but the chief attraction is
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Return of the Bonnie PrinceSet on reclaiming the British Crownfor the Stuart line, Bonnie PrinceCharlie landed on the west coast
of Scotland in 1745 with but ahandful of men. His temerity, as
well as widespread support for theJacobite cause, won over many
Scots, and when he came to raisehis standard at Glenfinnan, num-bers swelled as clans such as the
Camerons rallied to his side.
getting here – the scenery enroute is stunning. Take time tomarvel at the nearby viaduct(featured in the Harry Potter film)and wait for a passing steam train– even better, be in a passingsteam train. d Map E3 • Visitor Centre:(01397) 722250; Late Mar–Oct: 10am–5pm daily; Adm • Jacobite Steam Train(01463) 239026; mid-Jun to mid-Oct
ArdnamurchanThis peninsula – with its
rugged mountains, pretty villagesand what is one of the mostdelightful roads in the country,ending in a parade of white sand– is as lyrical in nature as it is inname. Acharacle is a famed denof musicians (try the hall orGlenuig Inn), while Glenmore ishome to a Natural History Centrewith a “living building”. Wild deersometimes graze on its roof.From Kilchoan you can catch a
ferry to Tobermoryon Mull. d Map E2 • Tourist Info: (01397)703781; www.ardnamurchannaturalhistorycentre.co.uk • Natural History Centre:(01972) 500209; Apr–Oct
Eilean DonanCastle
No one manages todrive past this castlewithout leaping forEilean Donan Castle
Glencoe
113
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For suggested walks in the Highlands see pp42–3
Pack a picnic in Inverness.There are lots of marvel-lous picnicking possibilitieson this route, so it wouldbe a shame not to take one.
Leave Inverness by 10amto make the best of theday, taking the B852 toDores and drive along thesouth side of Loch Ness –a beautiful and muchquieter road than that onthe northern shore. Try tostop off at the Foyers
Falls (see pp62–3).
Enjoy the hill-country driveto Fort Augustus, andpop in for a coffee at thebustling Lock Inn, rightbeside the canal. Walkalong the canal to viewLoch Ness from the shorebehind the old abbey.
Drive along the A82 on thenorth side of Loch Ness,(stop at Invermoriston toview the river pools andold bridge) and visitUrquhart Castle. Haveyour picnic lunch here.
Your picnic will, hopefully,have recharged yourbatteries sufficiently for avisit to one of the Loch
Ness Monster visitor
centres in Drumnadrochit– fascinating, and ratherpersuasive.
Refill your thermos in Drum-nadrochit, then take theA831 to Cannich, and theminor road to Glen Affric.
Enjoy an hour’s walk inthis renowned beautyspot, before returning tothe bustle of Inverness viaKilmorack and the southshore of the Beauly Firth.A round trip of 115 miles(185 km).
A Highland Day Trip
Morning
Afternoon
their camera. Small, beautifuland magical, the restored 13th-century fortress of clan Macraestands on an island in magnificentscenery on the road to Skye (seealso p47). d Map D3 • mid-Mar–Oct: 10am–5pm daily; Nov: 11am–4pm daily • Adm • Visitor Centre: (01599) 555202
TorridonJust when you think moun-
tains can’t get any better, youcome to Torridon! Flanked by along sea loch, the red sandstonebuttresses of Beinn Alligin, BenDearg, Liathach (the highest, seep41) and Beinn Eighe rise up intoarresting outlines. From LittleDiabaig you can walk a delightfulcoastal path to Alligin Shuas, orto Craig (see p62). The National
Trust runs an informative Country-side Centre with nearby herds ofred deer and Highland cattle.d Map D3 • Countryside Centre • (01445) 791221 • www.nts.org.uk • 1 May–29 Sep: 10am–6pm daily • Adm
Inverewe GardensA west coast phenomenon,
these much-vaunted gardens areworth travelling a long way tosee. The sheer richness andvariety of plant life growing inwhat many consider to be a coldwilderness is a tribute to a plantenthusiast’s vision, hard work,nature’s bountifulness and warmAtlantic winds (see p51).
Torridon
114
Best of the Reststrations, such as spinning, corn-milling and butter-churning. By sodoing, the museum brings historyback into the life of the present.Terrific fun! d Achtercairn • Map C3• (01445) 712287 • www.gairlochheritagemuseum.org.uk • Apr–Oct • Adm
The Road to Applecross To get to this small coastal
village, you’ll drive on pureadrenalin – the road climbs750 m (2,000 ft) in steep zig-zagsto the Pass of the Sheep. Eventhey have to hold on tight. Thescenery – with views across toSkye – is magnificent, and fromhere the more gradual descentinto Applecross begins. d Map D2
TimespanWell worth a visit to under-
stand the effect of the 19th-century Clearances, which eventoday is visible throughout thenorth. d Helmsdale • Map C5 • (01431)821327 • www.timespan.org.uk • Apr–Oct • Adm
Dornoch CathedralMadonna chose it for her
wedding and 16 earls of Suther-land requested it for their burials.An impressive 13th-centurycathedral (now the parishchurch). d Map C4
LairgThe annual event here is the
one-day sheep sale – the biggestin the country with up to 40,000sheep. d Map C4 • Mid-Aug • TouristInfo (summer only): (01549) 402160
Dunrobin CastleA home befitting its wealthy
landowners, the dukes of Suther-land. Towers, turrets and a palatialinterior upon which no expensehas been spared. Garden falconrydisplays too. d Golspie • Map C4• (01408) 633177 • Apr–Sep • Adm
Glen AffricGlen of outstanding beauty,
most easily accessed from theeast at Cannich. But at the west-ern end, near Morvich, there’s awalk to the breathtaking Falls ofGlomach (see p25). d Map D3
UllapoolDelightful grid-plan village
with Gaelic street names, boattrips, ferries to the Western Isles,a museum and the dream-worldAssynt Mountains. Visit Corrie-shalloch Gorge en route. d Map C3
PlocktonPrime candidate for Scot-
land’s prettiest west-coast village,Plockton has sea, palm trees anda Rare Breeds Farm. d Map D3
Hydroponicum, AchiltibuieA Garden of Eden without
the dirt. You’ll be amazed atwhat’s grown in this glasshouseusing a soil-free irrigation systemto keep the plants fed (see p51).• (01854) 622202 • Easter–Oct
Gairloch Heritage MuseumA leader of its kind, this
local exhibition excels with aprogramme of old-industry demon-
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Places to Eat and Drink
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Off the Rails, Plockton
Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards and serve vegetarian meals
£ under £15££ £15–£25
£££ £25–£35££££ £35–£50
£££££ over £50
Price Categories
For a three-coursemeal for one with halfa bottle of wine (orequivalent meal), taxesand extra charges.
efficient. d Town Pier, Fort William • Map E3 • (01397) 705589 • ££
Summer Isles HotelA no-choice set menu “strives
for perfection” and frequentlysucceeds. Advance bookings only,and vegetarian dishes by arrange-ment. Gourmet dining in a spec-tacular setting. d Achiltibuie, Ross-shire • Map C3 • (01854) 622282 • ££££
The Ceilidh PlaceHotel-restaurant-bar and
vibrant entertainments venue.Everything from a snack to a feast,plus live music and dance aplenty.d 14 West Argyle Street, Ullapool • MapC3 • (01854) 612103 • £££
Clachaig InnA legendary haunt of walkers,
this hotel offers a wide range offood but is best known for its bar– as essential to Highland trekkersas a first munro. d Glencoe • MapE3 • (01855) 811252 • ££
Off the RailsThe atmosphere in this old
railway station is delightful, andthe food exquisite. Plenty ofchoice, and adequate wine –supreme value. d Plockton • Map D3• (01599) 544423 • ££
Applecross InnSpectacularly located beyond
Britain’s highest mountain pass,this pub overlooks Skye. Local sea-food is served, and there is musicsome evenings. d Applecross, WesterRoss • Map E3 • (01520) 744262• ££
Inverlochy CastleMany culinary awards have
been bestowed upon the restau-rant of this prestigious hotel. Threedining rooms, a lavish set menu(Modern British cuisine) and alengthy wine list. d Torlundy, FortWilliam • Map E3 • (01397) 702177 • £££££
Old Pines Conscientiously organic,
devoted to sourcing local ingre-dients, a member of the “SlowFood” movement and with itsown smokehouse, this littlerestaurant has earned a bigname. Awarded Rural Chef of theYear 2003 (see also p.149). d SpeanBridge • Map E3 • (01397) 712324 • ££££
Culloden HouseAnother luxurious hotel dedi-
cated to the highest refinementsof eating and drinking. Monkfishand scallops with a courgettenoodle stew sets the impeccablestandard. d Inverness • Map D4• (01463) 790461 • £££££
Eden Court A simple dining area offering
light meals at Inverness’s vibranttheatre. Bright and breezy forlunch or pre-theatre meals.d Bishop’s Rd, Inverness • Map D4• (01463) 732684 • ££
Crannog SeafoodRestaurant
Fresh seafood is served, a pan-oramic loch view and generoushelpings. The atmosphere is warmand welcoming, and the service
116
Cuillins, Skye
Left Callanish Stone Circle, Isle of Lewis Right St Martin’s Cross, Iona
MORE THAN 600 ISLANDS LIE SCATTERED along Scotland’s Atlantic coast-line, from seabird clustered eyots to the land masses of Skye, Mull, Lewis
and Harris. The West Coast Islands represent escapism at its bestand amply repay the effort of reaching them with the distinc-tive lifestyles and hospitality of island folk. Regular ferries runall year, and special “island-hopping” fares are available.
West Coast Islands
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For information about travelling to the West Coast Islands, see p135
44
4
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44
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5
8
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7
Ullapool
Lochinver
Uig
Staffin
Stornoway
Rodel
Creagorry
Lochmaddy
Castlebay
KilbrideLochboisdale
TarbertAird Asaig
ArnolCarlowayCallanish
Port of Ness
Portree
Torridon
Broadford
MallaigArmadale
Kilchoan
Lochailort
Kyle ofLochalsh
Kennacraig
Tobermory
Fionnphort
BowmorePort Askaig
Ardlussa
ObanCraignure
Lochgilphead
Kilmartin
Easdale
Port Ellen
Canna RumBarraEriskay
North Uist
South Uist
EiggMuck
StaffaIona
Colonsay
Jura
Coll
Tiree
Luing
GighaIslay
Isle ofMull
Isle of Skye
Isle ofLewis
Harris
SummerIsles
Oronsay
Ou
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Inn
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He
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The
Min
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A t l a n t i cO c e a n
A85
A830
A83
A87
A87
A 816
040 40miles km
1 Jura
2 Islay
3 Colonsay and Oronsay
4 Mull
5 Iona and Staffa
6 Coll
7 Small Isles
8 Skye
9 Barra
0 Isle of Lewis
Sights
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Harbour, Colonsay
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George Orwell stayed at a remote cottage on Jura in 1946 to workon his final novel, Nineteen Eighty-Four; for more, see pp44–5
JuraThe wildest and least visited
of the Hebridean islands. Overrunby red deer and dominated by itscentral hills, the Paps, Jura hasbeen little affected by modernity:a single road links the ferry portand the main settlement, Craig-house. If you revel in solitude, thewalks are tremendous. d Map F2• Tourist Info: (08707) 200617
IslayA thriving island with eight
distilleries producing peaty malts.Bowmore, the island’s capital, hasan unusual circular church, design-ed to deprive the devil of cornersto hide in! And Britain’s most im-pressive 8th-century Celtic crosscan be found at Kildalton. Morethan 250 species of birds havebeen recorded on Islay’s variedlandscapes. d Map F2–G2 • Tourist Info:(08707) 200617 • www.isle-of-islay.com
Colonsay and Oronsay Colonsay has provided farm-
land and shelter to people sinceat least the Bronze Age, and manyof their tombs and standing stonesremain. Old traditions persist here,and Colonsay is still a strong croft-ing (see p119) and fishing com-munity. Wild flowers and birdsthrive on this terrain, but it is thecoastline, with its mix of sprawlingand secretive beaches, that luresmost visitors. Check the tidesand walk out to the adjacent littleisland of Oronsay, with its ruinedpriory; its Christian roots go backas far as Iona’s. d Map F2 • Tourist Info:(08707) 200630 • www.colonsay.org.uk
Mull Matching Skye for beauty if
not for size, Mull is the secondlargest of the Inner Hebrides.Don’t miss the prize gardens atTorosay Castle (which can bereached by miniature railway fromCraignure), while the imperiousDuart Castle is a more austereproposition. A tour of the islandmust include side trips to Ionaand Staffa, and Calgary Beach willstop you in your tracks. Tobermoryis the place to unwind – itscolourful seafront is a classicpostcard scene. The Misnish Barthere often has live music. d MapE2–F2 • Tourist info: (08707) 200610
Duart Castle, Mull
118
Iona and Staffa Iona is a sparkling island of
white sand beaches with anactive crofting community. Visi-tors come in their hundreds dailyin summer to visit the famousrestored abbey (avoid 10am–4pmfor a chance of peace). It washere that Columba came in 563to establish a missionary centre(see p32). Staffa containsScotland’s greatest naturalwonder: Fingal’s Cave, formed bythousands of basalt “organpipes”, which inspired Mendels-sohn to compose his famousHebrides Overture. d Map F2 & E2• Boats for Staffa leave from Fionnphort• Tourist Info: (08707) 200630.
CollWild flowers, migrant birds,
otters, standing stones, activecrofts, a castle and a surfeit ofbeaches contribute tomaking this a particu-larly varied anddelightful island.d Map E2 • Tourist Info:(08707) 200630.
Small IslesWhile Canna and
Muck are home totraditional farmingcommunities, Rumwas once the privateplayground of a rich
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For a perfect retreat from (the comforts of) modern life, found onthe island of Coll, see p44
industrialist; you canvisit his incrediblefantasy home, KinlochCastle, as well aswander the island’stowering mountains.Eigg was a landmarkcommunity buyout,and the islander-owners now run acrafts shop and tours.Their ceilidhs (see p59)are legendary! TheSgurr of Eigg, a sugar-
loaf spur, yields fabulous views.d Map D–E2 • Tourist Info: (01687) 462170
SkyeMountainous, misty and magi-
cal, Skye is an island of dramaticscenery, with an ancient castle,an idolized distillery and plentymore attractions (see pp20–21).
Barra This small isle encapsulates
all the charm of the Hebrides:scintillating beaches, the cultureof the Gaels, tranquillity androad-priority to sheep. No matterhow you arrive, it will make adeep impression: planes land onthe sands of Cockle Beach, whileferries sail into a delightful baywhere the 11th-century KisimulCastle poses on an island of itsown. A soothing place to unwind.d Map D1 • Tourist Info: (01851) 703088
Rum
Fingal’s Cave
119
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Book both your Staffa boattrip (Tel (01681) 700338)and your car reservationfor the Caledonian Mac-Brayne ferry (Tel (01631)566688) in advance.
Depart Oban on the 7:45am Calmac ferry toCraignure on Mull (45-minute crossing).
Drive to Fionnphort tocatch the 9:45 trip toStaffa (10:45 on Sat). Thistakes 40 minutes eachway and you have onehour on Staffa to walkamong puffins and visitthe awesome Fingal’s
Cave, the basalt rockformation that so inspiredMendelssohn.
On your return toFionnphort, leave your carand take the quick ferrycrossing to Iona. Havelunch in the Argyll Hotel
(a particularly goodvegetarian selection).
Climb the hill above theabbey. The longer you leaveyour visit to the abbey theless crowded it will be. Ionais too beautiful and sereneto rush, and you may wantto spend the rest of the daywandering its shores andrugged terrain, contem-plating this small island’shistorical significance.
If not, return to Craignurein time to visit Torosay
Castle and its finegardens. Try to get therebefore 4pm to make thevisit worthwhile.
Note: If you don’t have acar, you can do most ofthis tour, in summer, byboat from Oban – call the01681 number above.
A Day Around Mull
Morning
Afternoon
CroftingCrofts are unique to the High-
lands and Islands. They are smallparcels of agricultural land, worked
in addition to other sources ofincome. There are around 17,000
today, and grants now ensuretheir continuation. But in the mid-19th century, crofters were denied
basic rights and suffered greatabuse and hardship at the hands
of unscrupulous landlords.
Isle of LewisAlthough geographically one
island, the northern half is calledLewis and the southern half,Harris. Together, they are world-famous for producing tweed.One thing you absolutely mustsee in Lewis is the spectacular4,500-year-old stone circle ofCalanish, which resonates with adeep sense of spirituality. Arnolhas an engaging traditional“black-house” (blackened bysmoke) and Carloway a finestone fort. Harris is moremountainous. Drive the “GoldenRoad” for the best scenery, andstop at Luskentyre beach, whereyou could imagine you were inAustralia. d Map C2 • Tourist Info:(01851) 703088
Barra
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Best of the RestArranLong a favourite of Glasweg-
ians, Arran is often described as“Scotland in miniature”. Goat Fellis its craggy core, while thesurrounds of Brodick Castle offermore urbane, forest-path walks.d Map G3 • Tourist Info: (01770) 302401
TireeWell-established on the sur-
fers’ circuit, this flat island not onlyboasts some of the finest Atlanticrollers on its beaches but it alsoclaims the highest number ofsunshine hours in Britain. d MapE1 • Tourist Info: (08707) 200630
The Uists and BenbeculaA string of islands connect-
ed by causeways, with huge ex-panses of beaches on the westand rocky mountains on the east.Aside from the scenery, this isalso a wonderful trout fishingarea. d Map C1–D1 • Tourist Info:(01851) 703088
GighaExceptionally fertile island
(“Isle of God”), which producesgourmet cheeses and aremarkable abundance of tenderplants and flowers, especially inthe much-acclaimed AchamoreGarden. d Map G2 • Tourist Info:(08707) 200609
EriskayReal-life scene of the Whisky
Galore wreck in 1941, this is thedream island of the Hebrides.Beaches, crofts, hills – everything
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is how the romantic would have it.d Map D1 • Tourist Info: (01851) 703088
EasdaleThis former slate quarry has
been transformed into a pictur-esque village. Surrounded byholes and fragmented rocks, it isbizarre and fascinating – a livingmuseum. d Nr Oban • Map E3• Tourist Info: (08707) 200630
Summer IslesAs inviting as their name
sounds, this small cluster ofislands in Loch Broom offerssolitude before the magnificentarena of the Coigach mountains. d Map C3 • Tourist Info: (01854) 612135
KerreraA popular place for yachts to
berth, this green, hilly island isideal for walking, with clearviews to Mull and the finestoutlook on Oban. d Map E3 • TouristInfo: (08707) 200630
LismoreSituated in splendid scenery,
this once important church islandis now a quiet holiday retreat.Very green and fertile, it’s nameis said to mean “great garden”.d Map E3 • Tourist Info: (08707) 200630
LuingAs it is not famous for any-
thing except its defunct slatequarry, you should have this isleto yourself. Pretty, and easy totour by bicycle. d Nr Isle of Seil• Map F3 • Bicycle hire: (01852) 314256
Previous pages The Isle of Skye
123
d Isle Ornsay, Sleat, Skye • Map D2• (01471) 833332 • www.eileaniarmain.co.uk • ££££
The MishnishCelebrated pub on Tober-
mory’s colourful seafront. Alwaysbustling (and often packed) withlocals and visitors. Regular livemusic. d Main St, Tobermory, Mull• Map E2 • (01688) 302009 • £
An TuireannSwish, modern arts exhibition
centre. Part of the draw is thedelicious vegetarian meals andsnacks served in the café. d StruanRd, Portree, Skye • Map D2 • (01478)613306 • 10:30am–4:30pm Tue–Sat • £
Jura HotelQuaint old coastal hotel. In
any one evening you are likely tomeet most of Jura’s inhabitants.Simple food in the scenery ofthe gods. d Craighouse, Jura • Map F2• (01496) 820243 • ££
Castlebay BarCheap bar meals are on
offer, as well as silver servicewith all the trimmings in itsrestaurant overlooking the villagebay. d Castlebay, Barra • Map D1 •(01871) 810223 • £ (bar) • ££ (restaurant)
Druimard Country House Hotel
Dining room in a meticulouslyrestored Victorian house situatedjust opposite Mull Theatre andoverlooking the glen. d Dervaig,Mull • Map E2 • (01688) 400345 • ££££
Three ChimneysShirley and Eddie Spear have
been enhancing their internationalreputation for 20 years in thissublime cottage restaurant (seealso p64). d Colbost, Dunvegan,Skye • Map D2 • (01470) 511258• www.threechimneys.co.uk • £££££
BonaventureChef Richard Leparoux has
chosen the remotest corner toset up his restaurant. Well worththe trek to find dazzling French-Scottish dishes in an old RAFbase with picturesque surrounds.d Aird, Uig, Isle of Lewis • Map C2• (01851) 672474 • £££
Port Mor HouseDinner is included with bed
and breakfast here, simply becausethere’s nowhere else to go. Thank-fully the restaurant excels itself(see also p45). d Port Mor, Isle ofMuck • Map E2 • (01687) 462365 • ££
Kilmichael Country HouseConsidering the hotel’s five-
star rating, its restaurant is a bar-gain. Set four-course menus anda connoisseur’s wine list. Bookingessential. d Glencloy, Brodick, Isle ofArran • Map G3 • (01770) 302219• www.kilmichael.com • ££££
Eilean Iarmain HotelCharming and cosily set in a
huddle of historic buildings bythe sea (with its own oysterbeds). Highest quality set four-course menu (three choices foreach course) and elite wine list.
Places to Eat and Drink
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Three Chimneys
£ under £15££ £15–£25
£££ £25–£35££££ £35–£50
£££££ over £50
Price Categories
For a three coursemeal for one with halfa bottle of wine (orequivalent meal), taxesand extra charges.
Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards and serve vegetarian meals
124
DON’T LET THE REMOTENESS DETER YOU, for it is the very emptiness itselfthat commends upon the visitor senses of wonder and privilege in the Far
North. The dazzling beaches along the northern coastline are a surprise to many,while further north still are the former Viking strongholds of Orkney and Shet-land. Orkney is green and fertile, and contains one of the greatest concentrationsof prehistoric remains in Europe. Shetland is wilder, with millions of seabirdsand islanders who celebrate their Viking roots with a blazing fire festival.
The Far North
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6 Kirkwall, Orkney
7 Skara Brae, Orkney
8 Jarlshof, Shetland
9 Mousa Broch,
Shetland
0 Hermaness National
Nature Reserve, Shetland
1 Handa Island
2 Cape Wrath
3 Castle and Gardens
of Mey
4 Old Man of Hoy,
Orkney
5 Maes Howe, Orkney
Sights
4
44
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040 40miles km 020 20miles km
CapeWrath
Handa
Old Manof Hoy
Maes HoweSkara Brae
Kirkwall
Hermaness
Jarlshof
MousaBroch
Castle andGardens of Mey
Thurso
Stromness
Melvich
Forsinard
Tounge
Scourie
Durness
Kinlochbervie
John o'Groats
Wick
LerwickScalloway
Stenness
Hillswick Brae
Copister
Melby
Westray
EdayRousay
Stronsay
Sanday
Shapinsay
SouthRonaldsay
OrkneyIslands Shetland
Islands
Hoy
ShetlandIslands
OrkneyIslands
Foula
Fair Isle
Fetlar
WhalsayMainland
MainlandPapaStour
Yell
Unst
Pentland Firth
N o r t hS e a
AtlanticOcean
NorthSea
A99
A9A9
Ring of Brodgar, Orkney
Earl’s Palace, Kirkwall
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For places to stay on Orkney and Shetland see p150
Handa IslandOnce populated by hardy
people who elected a queen andran their own parliament, Handawas evacuated when the potatocrop failed in 1847. Now it is onlyseabirds that live here – and whata fantastic colony! Of particularnote are the belligerent arcticand great skuas, kittiwakes, razor-bills and the largest assembly ofguillemots (66,000) in Britain. Aferry from Tarbet will take you tothis dramatic island. d Map B3• Ferry: (01463) 714746; mid Apr–mid Sep
Cape WrathThis is the most north-
westerly point onthe British mainland.Perched high on aclifftop stands aStevenson lighthouse(1827); below, theocean pounds therocks in a mesmeriz-ing display of theAtlantic’s strength.Five miles (8 km)eastwards at CloMor are the highestcliffs on mainland
Britain (281 m / 900 ft). The capeis reached by ferry from the CapeWrath Hotel, and a minibus runsto the lighthouse in summer. dMap B3 • Ferry: (01971) 511376 May–Sep
Castle and Gardens of MeyOn the windswept Caithness
coast is the UK’s most northerlymainland castle, the Castle ofMey. Since 1952, the late QueenElizabeth, the Queen Mother,lovingly restored the castle andgardens – her own personaltaste is very apparent. The castleand grounds are now in trust for the benefit of the people ofCaithness. d Map B5 • A836Thurso–John O’Groats • (01847) 851473 • www.castleofmey.org.uk
Old Man of Hoy, OrkneyThis sandstone pinnacle
rising 150 m (500 ft) from thesea is the most famous stack inBritain. It seems constantly tochange colour as the light varies,and never fails to mesmerize. Im-pressively, climbers have scaledits precipitous face. The Scrabster–Stromness ferry deviates to givepassengers a view, but its bestangle is from land. Hire bikes atMoaness and cycle to RackwickBay (on the way visit the DwarfieStane, a hollow rock), then it’s a2-hour round-trip on foot. d Map A5• Bike hire at Moaness: (01856) 791225
Handa Island
Old Man of Hoy
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Maes Howe, Orkney This magnificent burial
chamber, built c.2700 BC, is aWorld Heritage Site. Stoop lowand walk through the entrancetunnel, carefully aligned withthe solstice sun, and enter thegreatest concentration of Vikinggraffiti ever discovered. Norsemenplundered the treasure but leftthe walls with a wealth of runesdescribing the kind of boasts andgrumbles that men still make to-day. The torchlit tour is absolutelyspellbinding! d Map A5 • (01856)761606 • Apr–Sep: 9:30am–6:30pm daily;Oct–Mar, 9:30am–4:30pm Mon-Sat,2–4:30pm Sun • Adm
Kirkwall, Orkney The capital of Orkney is an
endearing town of twisted streets,ancient buildings and the constantcomings and goings of ferries.Most striking of all is the enor-mous red and yellow St Magnus’sCathedral, built in the 12th
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century and still goingstrong. Nearby are theruins of the bishop’sand earl’s palaces. Thetown museum is excel-lent, and many shopssell an extensive rangeof Orcadian jewellery. d Map A5 • Tourist Info:(01856) 872856 • Palaces:(01856) 871918; summeronly; adm • Museum:(01856) 873191; free
Skara Brae, OrkneyAnother World Heritage Site,
and one that predates the Egyp-tian pyramids. In 1850, a stormrevealed some ruins in the sands.Archaeologists excavated andwere astonished to find a 5,000-year-old Stone Age village, whichhad been abandoned so suddenlythat most of the rooms and fur-nishings were left intact. Today,you can see the stone beds andsideboards of these Neolithicpeople, and discover how andwhat they cooked. A visitorcentre explains all. d Map A5• (01856) 841815 • Late Mar–end Sep:9:30am–6:30pm daily; Oct–Mar:9:30am–4:30pm • Adm
Jarlshof, Shetland This outstanding warren of
underground (but roofless) cham-bers represents not one periodof settlement but at least five.The oval-shaped houses areBronze Age; the Iron Age addedthe broch (see Mousa Broch) andwheelhouses; the Picts estab-lished their own dwellings; theVikings erected long houses, anda farm was created in medievaltimes. You can’t beat a goodbuilding site and this one, closeto the soaring bird-cliffs ofSumburgh head, is exceptional.d Map B1 • (01950) 460112 • Apr–Sep:9:30am–6:30pm daily • AdmSkara Brae
St Magnus’s Cathedral, Kirkwall
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Start the morning from the flagstoned village ofStromness and head outon the road to Skara Brae.The roads turn and undu-late on rolling pasture andare really a network oflanes, but the way is wellsignposted – a pity insome respects, as Orkneyis a delightful place to getlost in.
You’ll need two hours todo the Neolithic remainsjustice, as well as fitting ina visit to Skaill House andsampling cakes drippingwith icing in the café.
Drive on to the greatstone circle known as theRing of Brodgar, and alsovisit the roadside standingstones of Stenness.
So far you’ve only covered12 miles (20 km)! Time forlunch over at the Maes
Howe Visitor Centre.
After lunch, explore Maes
Howe. It’s dark inside, anda guide lights up the runeswith a torch. Drive on toKirkwall. Visit the cathedral(it has a great little café)and the museum – neitherof which are arduous orlengthy – and walk thetown’s charming streets.
In the evening, dine at theCreel Inn & Restaurant
(see p129) in St Margaret’sHope and feel like asatiated Viking.
Note, Orkney is adelightful place to cycleand it’s easy to hirebicycles. The car routedescribed above makes alovely day’s cycle ride ifyou return to Stromnessafter Maes Howe.
A Day on Orkney
Morning
Afternoon
Mousa Broch, ShetlandAround 500 BC the Iron Age
people began building defensiveforts called brochs. Masterfullydesigned, these double-skinnedwalls of dry stones were raisedinto circular towers, with anelegant taper at their waists.Remains of brochs are scatteredacross northern Scotland butMousa is the best preserved. Youcan only reach it by boat, and thenmust climb 13 m (43 ft) to theopen parapet. d Map B2 • TouristInfo: (01595) 693434 • Boat trips (01950)431367; Apr–Sep daily (weather permitting)
Hermaness NationalNature Reserve, Shetland
When you look from here toMuckle Flugga lighthouse, you’regazing at the northernmost tip ofBritain. Aside from the view, thecliff-edged reserve is a favouritebreeding ground for bonxies (greatskuas). Alongside these pirates(they steal food from other seabirds), there are gannets, razor-bills, red-throated divers and alarge gathering of tammy nories(puffins). d Unst • Map A2 • (01595)693345 • Best times to visit are mid-May–late Jul
Jarlshof
128
Best of the Restships. d Map A5 • (01856) 791300 • www.orkneyheritage.org.uk
Churchill Barriers andItalian Chapel, Orkney
Impressive causeways built inWorld War II by Italian prisonersof war, who were also respons-ible for the exquisite chapel.d Lamb Holm, nr Kirkwall • Map A5• Chapel open daily, dawn to dusk
Stromness, Orkney A town of flagstoned streets
and a museum that draws on theOrcadian connection with theHudson Bay Shipping Company.d Map A5 • Tourist Info: (01856) 850716
Balfour Castle, OrkneyStay here if you can, but if
not at least visit. Guided tours ofthis delightful home are possibleduring the summer. Not daily, so phone ahead (see p45). d Shapinsay • Map A5 • (01856) 711282
Ring of Brodgar, Orkney A marvellously atmospheric
prehistoric site of 36 slabs raisedto form a circle. There are taller(but fewer) standing stones near-by at Stenness. d Nr Stromness• Map A5 • Tourist Info: (01856) 850716
Fair Isle, ShetlandFamous for knitted patterns
and as a haven of traditionalcrafts, this remote island hasawesome cliff scenery andbirdlife. The ferry is weather-dependent, so be prepared for await. d Map B1 • www.fairisle.org.uk
Eas A’Chual Aluinn Fall,nr Kylesku
Britain’s highest waterfall drops200 m (650 ft) at the end of LochGlencoul. d Map B3 • Take a boatfrom Kylesku, Mar–Oct: (01971) 502345
RSPB Forsinard Peatlands Reserve
The great peatland here, knownas the Flow Country, offers walksamong rare plants, insects andbirds. d Map B4 • (01641) 571225• www.rspb.org.uk
Smoo Cave, DurnessRemarkable natural cavern
beside the sea. You can walk in alittle way, but a floodlit boat touris best. d Map B4 • (01971) 511259
Swanson Art Gallery,Thurso
Hosting touring exhibitions ofsurprising quality, the Swansonhas a widely varying programme.d Map B5 • (01847) 896357
Scapa Flow Visitor Centre, Hoy, Orkney
An exploration of the bay ofScapa Flow, where, in 1917, thecaptive German Navy scuttled 74
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Cape Wrath Hotel Family-run landmark on this
stunning stretch of coast. Hugelypopular with fishermen, maybebecause the restaurant servesmainly game. No culinary fanfares,just honest food in a friendlyatmosphere. d Nr Durness • Map B3• (01971) 511212 • ££
Pierowall Hotel, Orkney Come here for the best fish
and chips in the isles – probablyin Scotland. Nothing fancy butsimple home-cooking and plentyof choice. d Pierowall, Westray • MapA5 • (01857) 677472 • ££
Creel Inn, OrkneyMulti-award-winning seafront
restaurant in a timeless stonevillage. Imaginative cooking withOrcadian produce – try the wolf-fish broth. d St Margaret’s Hope• Map A5 • (01856) 831311 • £££
Weisdale Mill, ShetlandIn this renovated old mill, com-
bine the visual delights of theBonhoga Gallery with delectablesnacks: marinated herring, smokedsalmon, organic quiches – it’s allpraiseworthy. d Weisdale • Map B1• 11am–4pm; closed Mon • (01595)830400 • £
Busta House, ShetlandHistoric house with a revered
restaurant at reasonable prices.The tastiest lamb you’ll find andparticularly good scallops andhalibut. (See also p.147). d Busta,Brae • Map A1 • (01806) 522506 • £££
Tongue HotelA characterful old hotel, the
low prices of which belie thequality of exotic Highland fareserved. The best of local produceis used with imagination andflair. d Tongue • Map B4 • (01847)611206 • ££
Port-na-Con, nr DurnessLochside restaurant which
offers international cuisine. In-credible variety and value, andadequate wine list (see alsop149). d Loch Eriboll, nr Durness • MapB4 • (01971) 511367 • ££
Eddrachilles Hotel, ScourieAmong trees on a ragged
coastline, this fine old hotel hasa stone-walled dining room wherelocal smokehouse food is served.A long conservatory too for catch-ing the sun. d Badcall Bay, Scourie• Map B3 • (01971) 502080 • ££
Kinlochbervie Hotel Somewhat stark, but it more
than makes up for it throughgood views and simple value-for-money food. Hill lamb, venison,salmon and local seafood arefavourites. Surprisingly goodwines. d Kinlochbervie • Map B3• (01971) 521275 • ££
Dunnet Head Tea Rooms The UK’s most northerly main-
land tearoom with a cornucopiaof home baking. d Dunnet Head; fromThurso take the coast road east • Map B5• Easter–Sep: 11am–5pm daily • (01847)851991 • £
Places to Eat and Drink
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Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards;in the Far North phone ahead to check for vegetarian meals
£ under £15££ £15–£25
£££ £25–£35££££ £35–£50
£££££ over £50
Price Categories
For a three-coursemeal for one with halfa bottle of wine (orequivalent meal), taxesand extra charges.
SCOTLAN
D’S TO
P 10STREETSMART
Planning Your Visit132
Sources of Information133
Getting to Scotland134
Getting Around Scotland
135
Things to Avoid136
Health and Security137
Families, Groups andSpecial Needs
138
Shopping Tips139
Banking andCommunications
140
Accommodation Tips141
Places to Stay142–151
132
Planning Your Visitdo not require visas, norinoculations. Othernationals should checkcurrent regulations.
Opening HoursMost shops are open
9am–5:30pm Mon–Sat.City shops usually haveone late-night shopping(often until 8pm Thu) andmany are now open Sun,too. Town shops oftenclose 1pm Sat and maytake an afternoon offduring the week.
High Seasons and Holidays
What defines the “highseason” (when demandand prices are at theirhighest) varies, butgenerally there are threekey periods: Hogmanay(New Year), Easter andJul–Aug. The main holi-days in Scotland are 1–2Jan, Good Friday (endMar–early Apr), first andlast Mon in May, first Monin Aug, and 25–26 Dec.
Electricity and Sockets
Voltage is 220/240v 50Hz.Most places use threesquare-pin sockets with3-, 5- or 13-amp fuses.Buy an adaptor at yourdeparture airport, butcheck the voltage require-ments of your appliancesfirst. Most hotel bath-rooms have two-prongedsockets for shavers.
Books and MapsFor some background
reading try MagnusMagnusson’s Scotland –
When to GoScotland is a year-
round destination, withcontinuous natural attrac-tions, events and festivals.But outside the busysummer season, manysights, such as historichouses, either close oroperate erratic openinghours. Surprisingly, theweather rarely causesdisruptions to transport,but it is unpredictableeven at the best of times.
Scotland’s WeatherA maritime position
ensures Scotland’s highlyvariable weather pattern.The east is drier than thewest, but rain can occurthroughout the year, andheavy snowfalls are pos-sible in winter – seldomlasting longer than a fewdays, except in the hills.Average summer tempera-tures are 15–22ºC (59–72ºF); average winter tem-peratures 1–7ºC (34–45ºF).
For How Long?It may look small on
the map, but that can bedeceptive. Though only275 miles (440 km) long,Scotland is endowed with6,200 miles (10,000 km)of coastline and has 787major islands. So … allowas long as you can spare.
Immigration LawsAs with the rest of
the UK, a valid passportis required to be shownon entry. Visitors fromthe European Union (EU),United States and Canada,Australia and New Zealand
The Story of a Nation,June Skinner Sawyers’The Road North, andAlastair Scott’s humoroustravels, Native Stranger.For guidance on theground, many maps ofScotland are produced,some showing touristattractions. These areuseful, but the best mapsfor walkers are the Ord-nance Survey Landranger(1:50,000) and Explorer(1:25,000) series. Theyare widely availablethroughout Scotland andare essential for anyserious walking.
What to PackAn umbrella, warm
clothes (even heavierones for winter) and awaterproof jacket or coat.The older, establishedrestaurants may requiremen to wear a jacket andtie, but this is becomingless prevalent. Also,check out the GettingAround Scotland section(see p135) for specialtickets that must bepurchased before youenter the UK.
SmokingAlthough smoking is
banned in many publicplaces, such as cinemasand theatres, some res-taurants still have smokingsections. Cigarettesmaintain a strong holdover a large section ofScotland’s population, andpubs remain cherisheddens for smokers. In citybars, expect to contendwith a thick nicotine fog.
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133
buying a 3-, 7- or 14-dayDiscovery Ticket (individualor family), you are allowedentry to as many NTSproperties as you canvisit in the time.
Activity HolidaysScotland is a breath
of fresh air for the outdoorperson. Skiing, cycling,riding, walking, sailing andwatersports all havespecialist organizationspromoting their sports andproviding advice on howvisitors can enjoy them.
Taste ofScotland.com
For epicureans, Taste ofScotland is an organiza-tion that samples all kindsof places and lists thoseof a good or high standard,though its listing is notcomprehensive. The ToSalso publicizes foodfestivals, events andfarmers’ markets.
Bird and WildlifeOrganizations
The Scottish Wildlife Trustoperates several sanctu-aries equipped with hides,and Scottish NaturalHeritage manages sitesof environmental interestand special habitats. TheRoyal Society for the Pro-tection of Birds also hasreserves across Scotland.
Car BreakdownServices
Although there are severalsmaller breakdown ser-vices, the main two arethe AA (AutomobileAssociation) and the RAC
Visit ScotlandVisit Scotland is the
renamed Scottish TouristBoard. It promotesScotland as a visitordestination, providesgood general information,publishes brochures andhas a website – anexcellent place to startplanning your trip.
Visit BritainVisit Britain operates
information offices inmany cities around theworld. Check their internetsite (see Directory box)or the British Embassy inyour capital city.
Regional TouristInformation
Scotland has no shortageof regional tourist infor-mation offices. Mostregions have severalmain offices open all yearround, as well as smalleroffices open during thesummer months. Theseare listed throughoutthis guide.
Historic ScotlandMany of Scotland’s
oldest buildings are underthe custodianship of thisorganization. If you intendvisiting several it may becheaper to become amember or buy a 3-dayScottish Explorer ticket.
National Trust for Scotland
This is the other largeorganization that caresfor Scotland’s exceptionalbuildings – mainly statelyhomes and castles. By
(Royal Automobile Club).Rental cars usually includefree breakdown cover.
Local SourcesIn Britain, visitor
attractions are posted onbrown road signs withwhite letters. Also checkvillage notice boards andlocal newspapers forforthcoming events.
Sources of Information
Streetsmart
Left Visit Scotland logo Centre The Scotsman newspaper Right Taste of Scotland.com
Directory
Visit Scotland
(0131) 332 2433 • www.visitscotland.com
Visit Britain
(0208) 846 9000www.visitbritain.com
Historic Scotland
(0131) 668 8800 • www.historic-scotland.gov.uk
National Trust for
Scotland
(0131) 243 9300• www.nts.org.uk
Activity Holidays
www.activity-scotland.co.uk
Taste of
Scotland.com
(01368) 865 444 • www.taste-of-scotland.com
Scottish Wildlife Trust
www.swt.org.uk
Royal Society for the
Protection of Birds
www.rspb.org.uk
Scottish Natural
Heritage
www.snh.org.uk
Road Information
www.theaa.comwww.rac.co.uk
134
Getting to ScotlandBy FerryA new superfast ferry
from Zeebrugge to Rosyth(Edinburgh) sails dailyand takes 16 hrs. Thereare summer servicesfrom Iceland and Norwayto Lerwick, and severalcompanies provide year-round daily links toScotland from Belfast.
By TrainEurostar is the high-
speed passenger railservice operating fromEuropean cities toLondon. From here thereare frequent trains toEdinburgh (4 hrs) andGlasgow (5 hrs).
By CoachDay and night
services operate out ofLondon and other majorUK cities. Reliable andmuch cheaper than trains(some fantastic deals ifyou plan ahead), butjourneys are longer andcomfort more restricted.
Coach and RailTermini
Edinburgh and Glasgow’sprincipal train stationsare Waverley and Centralrespectively. Both are inthe middle of town. Edin-burgh’s main coach stationis on St Andrew’s Squarein the New Town; Glas-gow’s is opposite theRoyal Concert Hall at theeast end of Sauchiehall St.
By CarThe M6, A68 and,
partially coastal, A1 arethe main road routes into
InternationalAirports and
ConnectionsScotland has four interna-tional airports: Edinburgh,7 miles from city centre(coaches every 8–20 mins,taxis approx £15); Glas-gow, 8 miles from citycentre (coaches every15–30 mins, taxis approx£15); Prestwick, 30 milesfrom Glasgow city centre(trains every 30 mins,coaches every hour, taxiapprox £45); Aberdeen,7 miles from city centre(coaches at peak times,taxis approx £12.50).
By Air from North America
Air Canada, Continentaland American Airlines flydirect to Scotland. Othertransatlantic airlines fly toLondon, where connect-ing flights are plentiful.
By Air fromEurope
Direct flights into Scotlandoperate from many Euro-pean cities, includingAmsterdam, Copenhagen,Brussels, Frankfurt, Paris,Madrid and Dublin.
By Air fromwithin the UK
Eight airlines provideregular services fromcities in the UK. By farthe greatest frequency offlights is out of LondonHeathrow and Gatwick.However, airlines otherthan British Airways andbmi usually depart fromStansted, Luton orLondon City Airport.
Scotland, the latter twofor Edinburgh, the formerfor Glasgow. No bordercontrols, just a “Welcometo Scotland” sign.
Internet BargainsMany airlines and
transport companies nowundercut their agents byselling cheaper ticketsdirectly through theirwebsites. If you can planwell ahead and be flexibleabout dates, you get thebest deals, but last-minutebargains are also possible.
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Directory
Airports
• Edinburgh 08700 400007 • Glasgow 08700400 008 • Prestwick(01292) 479 822 • Aber-deen 08700 400 006
Airlines
www.continental.comwww.aa.com www.aircanada.comwww.britishairways.comwww.easyjet.comwww.flybmi.comwww.ryanair.comwww.scotairways.co.ukwww.transaeroairlines.com
Ferries
www.superfast.com• www.stenaline.com• www.poirishsea.com• www.seacat.co.uk
Trains
National Rail Enquiries:0845 748 4950GNER: 08457 225 225
Coaches
www.gobycoach.com• www.citylink.co.uk
135
majority of west coastroutes, but smaller com-panies also run ferries toand around Scotland’s130 inhabited islands.
CarRoads vary from single
tracks to motorways andare generally of a highstandard. There are notolls except on the Forth,Tay, Erskine and Skyebridges. The HighwayCode details all theregulations and can bepurchased in bookshops.
TaxisTaxis are regulated
and legally obliged todisplay a licence number.City taxis should bemetered but in remoteareas unmetered carsoperate – ask for the farebefore you get in.
CyclingThere are some great
long distance and citycycle networks. Unfor-tunately, provisions forbike transport on trains is dire – book well inadvance to reserve someof the limited space.
On FootWith over a dozen
major walking routes andthousands of markedfootpaths, Scotland is agreat place for the foottraveller. Scotland’saccess laws are muchmore lenient thanEngland’s, and walkerswho do not cause damageor interfere with privacyor estate activities are
By AirScotland has an ex-
cellent internal air networkconnecting regional air-ports and the islandswith the main airports ofAberdeen, Edinburgh,Glasgow and Inverness.British Regional Airlinesoffer a Highland RoverPass: five flights withinthe Highlands. Buy it atleast 7 days before youarrive in the UK; contactBritish Airways for details.
By TrainBritrail offers several
types of rover ticket, allof which must be boughtbefore you get to the UK.Scotrail issue several rovertickets for sale in the UK,some of which allowaccess to ferries as well.
By BusMany local bus ser-
vices operate but ScottishCitylink is the largestprovider, serving over 200towns and cities. Citybuses don’t give changeand their Day Tickets arecheaper after 9:30am.
Coach and Mini-Bus Tours
Plenty of companies offertours of various durationsand standards of accom-modation. Two renownedminibus-and-hostel tourcompanies are Rabbie’sTrail Burners andMacBackpackers.
FerriesCaledonian MacBrayne
is the largest ferry com-pany and works the
generally allowed towander the land freely.
Passing PlacesSingle-track roads
have passing places toallow faster traffic behindyou to overtake, and toallow two cars travellingin opposite directions toget past each other. Whentwo cars meet betweenpassing places, the carnearest to it should re-verse and (keeping to theleft) pull into, or stop oppo-site, the passing place.
Getting Around Scotland
Streetsmart
Left Car ferry Centre Rural main road Right Edinburgh taxi
Directory
Rail
www.britrail.netwww.scotrail.co.uk
Buses
www.citylink.co.uk
Coach tours
• www.nithsdalecoachtours.co.uk • www.tourofscotland.com • www.rabbies.com • www.macbackpackers.com
Ferries
• www.calmac.co.uk(Caledonian MacBrayne)• www.westernferriesclyde.co.uk • www.northlinkferries.co.uk • www.orkneyferries.com• www.visitshetland.com
Cycling
• www.sustrans.org.uk• www.northsea-cycle.com
Walking
• www.walkaboutscotland.com • www.walkingwild.com
136
Things to Avoidrestaurants will be openlate. And in the WesternIsles in particular, Sundayis still predominantly aday of rest (see p59).
”Sorry, it’s fullybooked …”
Accommodation inEdinburgh for the Augustfestivals gets booked upmonths in advance. Thisis the most extreme casebut you should reservebeds and tickets for mainevents in advance of anyfestival in Scotland, andalso car space on ferriesduring peak periods.
UnexpectedWeather
Scotland’s northern lati-tude and unpredictableweather pattern meanthat conditions can alterrapidly. Winter weather inthe hills can be parti-cularly severe and apt tochange with very littlewarning. Avoid gettingcaught out by takingsufficient clothes for theworst the season couldthrow at you, and listento weather forecasts,which are updatedregularly on radio stations.
The StalkingSeason
The controlled cull ofScotland’s over-populationof red deer is an essentialaspect of estate andcountryside manage-ment, besides being animportant source ofincome. The main“Stalking Season”, as it’scalled, runs from mid-
Traffic Snarls Congestion around
Edinburgh, Glasgow andthe Forth Road Bridge isbecoming a daily occur-ence. Into-city queuesbuild up from 7:30 to9am and out-of-city from4:30 to 6pm. If you can,avoid these areas duringthe rush hours. RadioScotland (810 MW/92–94FM) issues frequent roadreports at peak periods.
Football MatchCrowds
Not a serious problem forvisitors as football is nota summer sport and fansare usually well behaved.However, they can beboisterous and noisy, andcause traffic congestion.
MidgesThese minute flies,
which come in cloudsand cause itching bites,are the curse of the westcoast. They love warm,windless evenings andboggy terrain. From theend of May to mid-Septhey can pop up to ruinan al fresco evening.Dozens of repellents areavailable, but the wondercure has yet to appear.Midge nets are essentialfor campers.
Early ClosingsIn remoter parts of
Scotland and particularlyon the islands, thevolume of trade does notjustify long openinghours, so it’s easy to becaught out. Don’tassume that shops or
August to 20 October.During this period, orwherever signs areposted, walkers arerequested to seekpermission from estateowners before they taketo the hills.
Car Break-ins andLost Possessions
Although theft from carsis not common, it doesoccur. To reduce the risk,avoid leaving valuableson display when youleave your car. If you loseanything, contact thenearest police station tosee if it has been handedin – it does happen!
Traffic AccidentsIf you come to
Scotland from a countrythat drives on the right,confusion over thedirection in which to lookfor on-coming traffic caneasily catch you out. Usepedestrian crossingswherever possible, and,if driving, take particularcare when rejoining aroad after a break andwhen approaching roadjunctions, especiallyroundabouts.
Calling a Thistle a Rose
The Scots are somewhattouchy on the subject ofnational pride, and forgood reason (see pp32–3).Take care not to refer toBritain as “England” or –even worse – to Scotlandas “England”. The latteris a guaranteedconversation-stopper.
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137
will be charged as privatepatients and must paythe full cost of anymedication prescribed.
ChemistsChemists (pharma-
cists) sell a wide rangeof medicines that areavailable without a pre-scription. In most citiesat least one chemist staysopen until midnight. Ifyou depend on certainmedication, it’s best tobring a supply with you.Ask your doctor to writeout the generic name(rather than the brandname) to help locate itsequivalent over here.
WaterTap water is safe to
drink in Scotland and so,thank goodness, is thewater from hill burns(streams) – useful ifyou’re out walking allday. It might be rash tosay that there is neverany danger, so if in doubtcheck with locals. Scot-land also has plenty offine spring and mineralwater in bottles.
CrimeScotland is not a
dangerous country, butassaults and muggingsdo take place in the largertowns and cities. Take thesame precautions that youwould in any city: avoiddeserted and unlit places,use your intuition aboutentering less salubriousareas and don’t flauntmoney, jewellery or othercoveted valuables.
EmergenciesFor any emergency,
there’s just one numberto dial: 999. This coverspolice, ambulance, firebrigade, coastguard andmountain rescue. You willreceive immediate atten-tion and be asked whichservice you require.
HospitalsAll hospitals operate
an Accident and Emer-gency department whereyou can receive treatmenton a priority system. Youcan rely on attention foraccidents and emergen-cies at a hospital, but forany other ailment youshould consult a doctor.
Doctors and Dentists
Doctors and dentists arelisted in the Yellow Pages(phonebook), or you canconsult a tourist infor-mation office. Doctorsusually have certain con-sulting hours when peoplecan come and wait to beseen. Dentists rarely haveunfilled appointments,but will always try to fitin an emergency.
Medical ChargesEmergency medical
care is free but additionaltreatment may incurcharges. Doctors’ consul-tations are free for visitorswhose home country hasreciprocal health arrange-ments with the UK, butdrugs must be paid for ata standard charge.Documentation will berequired. Other visitors
PickpocketsAgain, not common,
but they are about. Beespecially wary in crowds.Avoid keeping your walletin a back (or any loose)pocket, and only carryabout your “day money”.Keep a separate recordof credit card numbersand the action to take ifthey go missing.
Road ReportsIn addition to the
information under TrafficSnarls (see p136), the AAoperates a Road Watchscheme which lists allproblems on the roads(calls cost 50p per minute).Call them if you’re worriedabout your route; especi-ally useful if there’s theprospect of frost or snow.
Car SafetyThe wearing of seat
belts is compulsory forall car travellers (frontand back), and the policecan fine anyone not doingso. It is illegal to eat, drinkor use a mobile phonewhile in control of amoving vehicle. Do notdrive after drinking alcohol.The tolerated limit is low,and the penalty forexceeding it is severe.
Health and Security
Streetsmart
Left Police car Centre Pharmacy Right Mountain stream
Directory
Traffic Reports
AA Road Watch: 09003401 100
Weather Information
www.metoffice.comwww.scotlandonline.com
138
Families, Groups & Special Needsand caravans but thereare also many indepen-dent letting agencies(see pp143 & 145).
Disabled AccessVisit Scotland issues
a fact sheet listing allestablishments that caterfor those with mobilitydifficulties. Visitor attrac-tions vary in their provis-ion for disabled access:modern sights tend to begood but historic buildingsmay not be suitable forwheelchairs – contactthem in advance.
CapabilityScotland
This is Scotland’s largestdisability organization. Itprovides a national adviceand information serviceand is extremely helpful.It can, for example, supplyinformation on whereand when Shopmobilityfacilities are available.
Holiday CareService
Based in London, this isa national charity and theUK’s central source ofholiday and travel infor-mation for disabledpeople and their carers.
RADARAnother London-
based organization,which provides generalinformation for disabledtravellers.
Seagull Trust A small charity, with
canal boats on the Forth(Edinburgh) and Cale-
Family DiscountsDiscount tickets for
families are available ontrains and buses, and forvisiting properties underthe care of the NationalTrust for Scotland andHistoric Scotland (seeSources of Information,p133). Ask at other visitorattractions – most willoffer some discount.
Children-FriendlyAccommodation
Not all guesthouses orB&Bs cater for children.It’s worth asking at touristinformation offices forthose that do, or askingproprietors when makingreservations. Children-friendly establishmentstend to have familyrooms or advertise safegardens or play areas.
Family RoomsRegional accommoda-
tion guides will indicate ifan establishment offersfamily rooms. Manyhostels also offer familyrooms, but these are usu-ally limited and you shouldbook well in advance.
Self-CateringAside from camping
and hostelling, this isprobably the cheapestfamily and group accom-modation you can find. Itdoes restrict you to oneplace for a week (usuallythe minimum rental period)but having a base fromwhich to make trips canbe just the ticket. Regionalaccommodation guideslist self-catering cottages
donian (Inverness) canalsspecifically designed fordisabled people to taketo the water. Theirprogramme is mainly forlocal groups but withadequate notice they mayhave room for visitors.
Hand-ControlledRental Cars
Hertz Rent A Car cansupply hand-controlledvehicles at no extra costbut these should be or-dered in advance. SpecialDisabled Parking baysand free access (such asa toll-free crossing of theSkye Bridge) are availablebut you must display anofficial sign in your car.The AA DisabilityHelpline can advise onmany aspects of roaduse for the disabled.
Stre
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art Left Port-na-Con, child-friendly (see p149) Centre Disabled access Right Hertz car hire sign
Directory
Visit Scotland
Information
(0131) 332 2433
Capability Scotland
• www.capability-scotland.org.uk • (0131) 313 5510
Holiday Care
• www.holidaycare.org.uk • (08451) 249971
RADAR
• www.radar.org.uk • (020) 7250 3222
The Seagull Trust
(0131) 229 1789
AA Disability
Helpline
0800 262050
Free regional accommodation guides are available from localtourist offices – look out for the Visit Scotland logo (see p133)
139
WoollensShetland and the
Borders are well-knownsources of woollens, but itwould be wrong to restrictyour search, as woollenand cashmere design hasexcelled in the last twodecades. For beautiful and unusual wear, tryRagamuffin (12a St Mary’sSt, Edinburgh).
Packaged FoodPackaged food can
make excellent presentsto take home. Smokedsalmon, kippers (smokedherring), haggis (see p65),Dundee cake and short-bread are all popularsouvenirs of Scotland.
DrinksYou could take home
Moniack wines or Dram-buie liqueur, but by farthe most popular drink iswhisky, in standardbottles, miniatures orspecial presentationcartons. Sadly, it’s highlytaxed and often cheaperoutside the UK.
JewelleryAnother flourishing
area of innovative design.It seems that dozens ofnew and talented silver-smiths set up shop eachyear. Orkney produces anastonishing array ofquality jewellery. Someof the more populartraditional designsfeature Celtic knotworkand other interwovenpatterns, and make use ofthe Cairngorm, an orangesemi-precious stone.
VAT RefundsValue Added Tax (VAT)
at 17.5% is applied togoods and services. Non-EU visitors can reclaim VATon goods only by usingthe Foreign ExchangeTax-Free Shopping format participating stores;you’ll need to show yourpassport. This form ispresented at Customs onleaving the UK.
Prices andBargains
Britain is not particularlycheap for shopping, butprices can vary consider-ably, so it pays to shoparound. End of seasonsales offer the best bar-gains, as can outdoormarkets, but beware ofinferior products.
Scottish MadeIn a global economy
where shops can beswamped with imported“Scottish” souvenirs, it’srefreshing to find someoutlets that specialize inquality home-producedarts and crafts. Two suchshops are Made In Scot-land (Beauly) and HighlandOrigins in Dornie.
Kilts,Tartans and Tweed
Scotland’s tartans (seep58) come in hundredsof patterns and dozens offorms, notably the kilt.These are complex gar-ments to make and requireseveral weeks’ work.Tweed for suits, jacketsand skirts also comes ina wide array of designs.
GlassEdinburgh Glass is
famed for its glassware.The origins of the com-pany stretch back almostfour centuries to the1600s when the Venitiansintroduced the skill in theEdinburgh area. Theyspecialize in beautifullyengraved goblets, whiskyand wine decanters anddrinking vessels.
Art WorksGalleries selling art
can be found all overScotland. Here are threein Scotland’s major cities:Edinburgh Printmakersdeal in contemporary fineart printmaking. Stills(also Edinburgh) is along-established gallery,and Street Level (Glasgow)specializes in “dynamicphotographic culture”.
Shopping Tips
Streetsmart
Left Tartan clothing Centre Whisky Shop, Edinburgh Right Edinburgh Crystal
Directory
Made in Scotland
www.made-in-scotland.co.uk
Highland Origins
www.highlandorigins.com
Other Useful Sites
• www.touristpublications.co.uk/edin/edinshop.htm • www.ortak.co.uk • www.edinburgh-crystal.co.uk• www.edinburgh-printmakers.co.uk• www.stills.org• www.sl-photoworks.demon.co.uk
140
Banking and Communicationsmonly presented cards.Certain outlets alsoaccept Diners Club andAmerican Express.
Traveller’sCheques
Traveller’s cheques arestill the safest means ofcarrying money and, if inpounds sterling, you canuse them directly to payfor goods and services.Check on commissioncharges when purchasingor cashing your cheques,as practices vary. Keepyour receipts separatefrom the cheques as youwill need them in theevent of loss or theft.
Internet AccessInternet cafés are
relatively common in thecities. EasyEverythinghas 400-terminal cafés inthe centres of bothGlasgow and Edinburgh.Internet access is harderto find elsewhere, butmost towns will have atleast one café, or somelibraries and hotels mayprovide this service.
Phone BoxesPublic phones are
dotted about all over theplace. Some acceptcredit cards, but themajority require eithercoins or a phonecardwhich can be purchasedat many shops. To call anoperator dial 100.
Mobile PhonesCoverage for mobile
phones now extendsacross most of Scotland
CurrencyBritain’s currency is
the pound sterling (£),divided into 100 pence (p).Scotland’s three bankseach produce different-faced notes but these,along with Bank ofEngland and NorthernIreland notes, are all legaltender throughout theUK. Scottish notes comein £1, £5, £10, £20, £50and £100 denominations.Coins come as 1p, 2p, 5p,10p, 20p, 50p, £1 and £2.
Changing MoneyBanks tend to offer
the best exchange ratesand are open 9am–5pmMon–Fri. In remote areasyou may find a mobilebank parked and open forbusiness. Bureaux deChange work longer hoursin the main cities and atairports but their commis-sion charges can be high.
ATMs ATMs, or “holes-in-the-
wall” as they are affection-ately called, can be foundwidely throughout thecountry, even in the High-lands and islands. Also,most supermarkets offera cashback service whenyou purchase provisionswith a debit card carryingthe Switch or Cirrus logo.
Credit CardsCredit cards are wide-
ly accepted across Scot-land but many small shops,cafés and most B&Bs dealonly in cash or cheques insterling. VISA and Master-card are the most com-
but there are still pocketsin the Highlands andIslands outside the rangeof signals. Vodaphoneand BT Cellnet currentlyhave the most effectivenetworks in Scotland.
PostThe mail is still re-
garded as an honourableand sacred institution.Mail boxes may be free-standing or set in walls,and a notice specifies thecollection times. Theseare reliable. Post officeswork normal businesshours. Many shops alsosell stamps. Main postoffices operate a PosteRestante service and willhold mail for one month.
Student andOther Discounts
Most entertainmentvenues, visitor attractionsand travel services offerdiscount (often termed“concessions”) tostudents on productionof an appropriate ID.Some organizations, egthe National Trust forScotland, also offercheaper entry to holdersof Youth Hostel cards.Discounts for the elderlyare sometimes availablebut are less common. It’salways worth asking.
Stre
etsm
art Left High street bank Centre Clydesdale Bank logo Right Student card
Internet Access
EasyEverything
• 58 Rose St, Edinburgh • 57–61 St VincentStreet, Glasgow
141
Reservations Aside from the quali-
fications mentioned inThings to Avoid (p136),you can generally tourScotland without reserva-tions unless you are intenton staying in a particularestablishment. This alsoapplies to Youth Hostels,which once had an open-door policy but now canbe fully booked.
Look for Signs Tourist accommoda-
tion guides and those ofother organizations workon the basis that pro-prietors pay to have theirestablishment inspectedand listed. Many smallerhotels, guesthouses andB&Bs do not considerthis worthwhile, so theseguides are far from com-prehensive. Look out forroadside signs and, ifyou’re stuck, ask a local.
Hostels The Scottish Youth
Hostel Association (SYHA)operates many excellenthostels in Scotland andpublishes a brochurelisting them. Take yourmembership card andtravel with a sheet (somerequire a sleeping bag).Recently, hundreds ofindependent hostels havesprung up, and they havetheir own website; nomembership necessary.
Caravaning and Camping
There’s no shortage ofthese either and they areusually of a high standard
HotelsThe highest standard
of accommodation is tobe found in hotels, butthey vary greatly in facili-ties, quality and price.Cost generally reflectsquality but you can findsome great wee (small)hotels that cost littlemore than good B&Bs.VisitScotland produces arange of guides on alltypes of accommodation.
Guesthouses and B&Bs
There is little to distin-guish guesthouses andB&Bs. They both offerrooms in private homeswith breakfast included,and you are expected tobe absent during the day.They offer great oppor-tunities for meeting locals.
Self-CateringSelf-catering flats,
cottages and caravansare the most cost-effectiveforms of accommodationfor families and groups,aside from camping andhostels. Organizationssuch as Visit Scotlandpublish nationwide list-ings. See also the Whereto Stay section forGlasgow and Edinburgh(see pp142–5).
Discounts forLonger Stays
If you’re planning onstaying longer than twonights in any one place,most hotels, guesthousesand B&Bs will give dis-counts, as well as offer-ing special weekly rates.
and beautifully located.Reduced facilities may beoffered in remoter areasbut the prices will belower and the viewsprobably even better.
Wild CampingUnless signposted to
the contrary, wild campingis tolerated in quietplaces where you do not infringe on anyone’sprivacy. Always try andfind the landowner toask permission first.
Mountain BothiesThe Mountain Bothy
Association is a charitythat looks after over 100unlocked “bothies”(simple wooden, iron orstone huts). These are allin remote areas andusually have little morethan a fireplace, table,seats and a sleepingplatform – free butdonations appreciated.
Accommodation Tips
Streetsmart
Left Coldingham Youth Hostel Right Camping and caravan site
Directory
Self-Catering
• The Society of Scot-land’s Self-Caterers,www.assc.co.uk/index.shtml • Scottish Holi-day Cottages, www.scottish-holiday-cottages.co.uk
Hostel and Camping
websites
• www.syha.org.uk• www.hostel-scotland.co.uk • www.camping-site.co.uk • www.mountainbothies.org.uk
For a selection of island retreats, including self-catering cottages,hotels and hostels, see pp44–5
142
Edinburgh: Luxury Hotelsthe Caledonian is some-thing of an institution.Opulence, indulgenceand great views at aprice. d Princes St &Lothian Rd • Map L3• (0131) 222 8888 • ££££
Sheraton GrandLooking rather pale
and charmless on the out-side, the Sheraton isnonetheless a fine hotelin terms of its facilities,especially the state-of-the-art health club. Good Italianand Scottish restaurantsat hand, and in the localeof the West End businessdistrict. d Festival Sq, Loth-ian Rd • Map L4 • (0131) 2299131 • www.sheraton.com/grandedinburgh • £££££
ChanningsWonderfully peaceful
setting, away from thehubbub. Décor reflectsthe Edwardian architecture,while the in-room facilitiesare up to the minute, withinternet access, DVDplayers and e-TV. Luxuriousbathrooms, with MoltonBrown toiletries. d 15 SthLearmonth Gdns • Map J1• (0131) 315 2226 • www.channings.co.uk • ££££
Royal Terrace HotelThe Royal Terrace
Hotel sits above much ofEdinburgh, drinking in theviews from its splendidgarden terrace. Regal déc-or, sports facilities andwhirlpool baths in mostbathrooms. d 18 RoyalTerrace • Map Q1 • (0131)557 3222 • www.theroyalterracehotel.co.uk • ££££
BalmoralThe most prestigious
of Edinburgh’s old-schoolhotels, right in the heartof things on Princes St.Sports facilities and twogreat restaurants, NumberOne Princes Street andHadrian’s brasserie. d 1 Princes St • Map N2–3• (0131) 556 2414 • www.roccofortehotels.com • £££££
ScotsmanFormerly home of the
Scotsman newspaper, thissolid building has beentransformed into rather astylish hotel, especially inregard to its leisure facili-ties, which feature a sleek,steel and granite pool.Well-appointed bedrooms,superbly situated (lookingnorth over the New Town)and with a fine restaurant,Vermilion. d 20 NorthBridge • Map P3 • (0131)556 5565 • www.thescotsmanhotel.co.uk • £££££
AlbanyThree Georgian
houses in the New Town,joined to form a smartlydecked-out hotel. TheAlbany’s restaurant,Haldanes, is one of themain draws, with areputation for greatScottish fare. d 39 AlbanySt • Map N1 • (0131) 5560397 • www.albanyhoteledinburgh.co.uk • ££££
Caledonian HiltonWith its very formal
Pompadour restaurant andthe Cally Bar for shootingthe breeze with friends,
WitcheryChampagne and
chocolates await eachguest in this cocoon ofromance. Bose soundsystems and cable TV arethe modern touches tootherwise antique-filledrooms. Only seven suites,but such decadence inScotland must be ration-ed. For the restaurant,see p77. d Castlehill • Map M4 • (0131) 2255613 • www.thewitchery.com • ££££
The HowardThe Georgian
character of the Howardextends to the service,too, and every roomcomes with a dedicatedbutler to pamper youthroughout your stay. TheAtholl restaurant is onsite for period dining, orhave a full à la carte mealserved in your room – byyour own butler, of course!d 34 Great King St • Map M1• (0131) 557 3500 • www.thehoward.com • £££££
The BonhamRun by the same
team as The Howard andChannings, The Bonhamis the most chic of thethree. Confident styling,using contemporary fur-nishings and the full gamutof communication andentertainment devices(fast internet access,DVDs etc). The restauranttilts towards modernEuropean. d 35 Drums-heugh Gdns • Map K3 • (0131) 623 6060 • www.thebonham.com • ££££
Stre
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art Left Balmoral Centre Royal Terrace Hotel Right The Witchery’s Secret Garden dining room
Note: Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept credit cards and have en-suite bathrooms
143
relaxing. Good restaurantand one of the best barsin town (see p76). d 34Bread St • Map L5 • (0131)221 5555 • www.point-hotel.co.uk • £££
Inter-ContinentalThe George
The George retains manyperiod details and tradeson its evocation of abygone era – the early19th century to beprecise. Price category alittle misleading, ascheaper deals can nearlyalways be struck. d 19–21George St • Map M2• (0131) 225 1251 • www.intercontinental.com • ££££
Number 17Beautifully decorated
Victorian West End home,and great cooking too.Comfort is assured in thebedrooms, and breakfastis served in the amplekitchen, using Scottishfare such as potato sconesand Aberdeen butteriesto augment the usual fry-up staples. d 17 Lear-month Terr • Map J1• (0131) 315 4088 • £££
Sibbet HouseApartments
For self-catering in style,The Northumberland Stapartment offers twodouble rooms and asingle; the two leafy Aber-cromby Place propertieshave a double, plus twobeds in a screened-offsection of the living room.Two/three-night bookingpolicy. d 28A Northumber-land St; Map M1/2 • 26
MalmaisonAs its name suggests,
Malmaison looks to Francefor inspiration, and pro-vides a winning mix ofgood brasserie food andcontemporary styling inits rooms – wonderfulbathrooms! Nicely set onthe quay, next to Fishers(see p77). d 1 Tower Place,Leith • Map K5 • (0131) 4685000 • www.malmaison.com • ££££
Apex City HotelJoining its sister hotel
up the road at No. 31,with modern, simple andfunctional rooms, and amix of business and familyfacilities (photocopyingand secretarial servicesin the former case, cotsand high chairs in thelatter). d 61 Grassmarket• Map M4 • (0131) 2433456 • £££
Inverleith HotelVictorian town house
hotel, close to the gloriousBotanic Garden (see p50).Try for the sumptuousfour-poster room, or con-sider the Georgian self-catering apartment in theNew Town. d 5 InverleithTerrace • Map K5 • (0131)556 2745 • www.inverleithhotel.co.uk • ££–£££
PointThe most style-
conscious hotel in town.Broad sweeps of intensecolour add vitality to thesharp minimalism through-out, and the bedroomsand bathrooms are verywell appointed and deeply
Abercromby Pl; Map M2 •(0131) 624 0084 • www.26abercrombyplace.co.uk • ££
Radisson SASHotel
Castle-like building on theRoyal Mile. Spacious, ifuninspiring, bedroomswithin, and a plentifulsupply of facilities, fromthe restaurant with light-ing that recalls Watt’sfirst electrical experiments(see p34) to the leisureclub, with jet pool, saunaand solarium. d 80 HighSt • Map P3 • (0131) 5579797 • www.radissonsas.com • ££££
Rick’sVery stylish rooms,
with the contemporarychic of walnut head-boards paired with angorablankets. Such tactilecomforts are comple-mented by DVD players,modem points and verygood sound systems. (Seealso p76.) d 55a FrederickSt • Map M2 • (0131) 6227800 • www.ricksedinburgh.co.uk • £££
IngramsSmall B&B hotel,
nicely placed in the NewTown – quiet and leafy, yet close to many goodrestaurants, plus theshops of George St, RoseSt and Princes St. Smartlydecorated rooms, in a19th- century ilk, with themodern requirements ofTV and drinks facilities.d 24 Northumberland St • Map M1 • (0131) 5568140 • ££
Mid-Range and Boutique Hotels
Streetsmart
Left Malmaison Right The Point’s sleek interior
£ under £50££ £50–100
£££ £100–150££££ £150–200
£££££ over £200
Price Categories
For a standard,double room pernight (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
144
Edinburgh: Budget and Hostels understated floral patternsand plenty of space. Cur-rently, none of the roomsoffers en-suite facilities(hence the budget pricetag), but the hotel is tobe upgraded in 2005.Festival Inns, who ownthe Raeburn, have variousother hotels around town.d 112 Raeburn Place • MapK1 • (0131) 622 6800 • £
Jury’s InnEdinburgh
Rising up above WaverleyStation, and thereforeenjoying splendid views,this is one of the smarterbudget chain hotels. Décoris kept simple, and all therooms have satellite TVand air-conditioning – onthe off chance that thecity’s temparature soars.Well placed for the OldTown attractions, and ashort walk over NorthBridge to Princes St.d 43 Jeffrey St • Map P3• (0131) 200 3300 • ££
St Christopher’sInn Hostel
A new style of hostelthat provides a mix ofdormitory and privaterooms, some en suite.As well as laundry faci-lities and lockers, thereare hot tubs, saunas andinternet access. There’salso a bar on site. d 9–13 Market St • MapN3 • (0131) 226 1446 • £
Eglinton Youth Hostel
Unlike most of the otherhostels in Edinburgh, thisone is away from the
Herald House Hotel
An absolute steal – brightand comfortable modernhotel, hewn from a rusticstone building to the westof the city centre. In sucha compact capital, none ofthe main sights is very faraway, and either the OldTown or Princes St can bereached within a 15-minutewalk. TVs in all the rooms,decent beds, uncluttereddécor, en-suite showers.d 70 Grove St • Map K5• (0131) 228 2323 • £££
Ibis HotelSmart, neat, clean,
functional hotel that makesup for in prime location(just off the Royal Mile)what it lacks in generosityof space in the tiny bed-rooms and bathrooms.d 6 Hunter Square • MapP3 • (0131) 240 7000 • ££
BoroughPick of the budget
hotels – fantastic valuefor a modern chic hotel.Unfussy décor and largewindows give a convinc-ing illusion of space inbedrooms that come withall the minimalist frills: thatis, fancy TV, DVD playerand full-on waterfall-typeshower in the bathroom.d 72 Causewayside • MapP6 • (0131) 668 2255 • ££
Raeburn HouseLocated in the resi-
dential area of Stockbridge– about a 10-minute walkfrom Princes St – RaeburnHouse is a fine Georgianvilla. Pleasant décor with
madding crowd, amid thegenteel respectability ofthe West End, though stillwithin a 10-minute walkof Princes St. Loungeareas, games room, kit-chen and laundry; dormi-tory accommodation only.d 18 Eglinton Cres • MapJ4 • (0131) 337 1120 • £
Brodies 1 Back-packers Hostel
One of the smaller hos-tels, and all the morecosy and relaxed for that.Room for 56 guests inspacious dorms with whitestone walls and woodenfloors. Good showers,laundry and cookingfacilities, and – as withall the hostels, in fact –superbly located, in thiscase right in the thick ofit on the Royal Mile. d 12High Street • Map P3• (0131) 556 6770 • £
High StreetHostel
Bustling 24-hour hostel,central to the action. Nofrills, but plenty of smilingfaces, most off to spendmoney saved on accom-modation in the local bars.d 8 Blackfriars St • Map P3• (0131) 557 3984 • £
Backpackers,Royal Mile
The smallest of the hos-tels, with room for 38 insimple, clean dormitor-ies. Backpackers also hasthe Castle Rock hostel(0131 225 9666) if otherbranches are full. d 105High St • Map P3 • (0131)557 6120 • £
Stre
etsm
art Left St Christopher’s Inn Right Eglinton Youth Hostel
145
ing (an elegant Victorianterrace) and location – inGlasgow’s leafy West End,opposite the Botanic Gar-dens. A traditional ambi-ence, and bedrooms everybit as comfy as its down-town sister’s. d GreatWestern Rd • Map V1• (0141) 339 8811 • £££
St Jude’sA small hotel with a
private-club feel, its rooms(small oases of serenityin a cool, contemporarystyle) situated above therestaurant and wonderfulbar (see p95). St Judemay be the patron of lostsouls, but this style-conscious headquartersof hedonism is no placefor the downhearted.d 190 Bath St • Map S2• (0141) 352 8800 • £££
MalmaisonMalmaison (see also
p143) exercises its mantraof getting the details right:large, comfortable beds,mood lighting and serious-ly pleasurable bathrooms,with power showers andbaths suitable for hour-long soaks. French-stylebrasserie in the crypt(the building is a convert-ed church) and a gym tocounterbalance all thelazing about. d 278 WestGeorge St • Map S2• (0141) 572 1000 • £££
LangsCrisp, no-nonsense,
well-designed rooms,kitted out with the usualgadgets – TV, DVD playerand music system – but
One DevonshireGardens
This stretch of Victorianterrace in the West Endis the epitome of timeless,sophisticated luxury. Therooms, individually styled,are awash with luxuriousfabrics to excite the touchand selected antique fur-niture. With sumptuousbathrooms and plenty ofhigh-tech gadgetry in thebedrooms, why step out-side the front door? d 1Devonshire Gdns, off GtWestern Rd • (0141) 3392001 • www.onedevonshiregardens.com • ££££
Arthouse HotelExtravagant (almost)
to the point of kitsch, thisvelvet-clad, gold-trimmedhotel is in the funkyPhilippe Starck mould. Therooms are spacious, withbig beds and pillows youcould nest in. d 129 BathSt • Map S2 • (0141) 2216789 • £££
Glasgow HiltonBig and modern, the
Hilton has Glasgow’s full-est range of facilities, in-cluding gym, pool, beautysalon, business utilities,baby-sitting and two goodrestaurants. Superbly ap-pointed rooms, some withcityscape views. d 1 WilliamSt, off Pitt St • Map S2• (0141) 204 5555 • www.hilton.co.uk • £££££
Hilton GlasgowGrosvenor
Not quite as many ameni-ties as the central Hilton(above), but a finer build-
the real star is the Japan-ese-influenced Oshi spa,which chimes with thesushi restaurant. d PortDundas Place • Map T2• (0141) 333 1500 • £££
Millennium Hotel Glasgow
One of the best thingsabout this large, recentlyrevamped hotel is the con-servatory, which sits onthe edge of George Sq.Breakfast here, and watchthe crowds rushing to andfrom the neighbouringstation. Elsewhere, solid,dependable rooms andservices, if a bit corporatein style. d George Square• Map U2 • (0141) 332 6711• www.milleniumhotels.com • ££££
Dreamhouse IncAn excellent choice if
you’re staying for morethan a few nights. Luxuri-ous apartments, elegantmodern styling and fullmaid service. VariousWest End locations nearto Kelvingrove Park. Oneand two beds available.d Dreamhouse Inc • (0141) 332 3620 • www.dreamhouseapartments.com • £££
SACOTwelve luxury-on-a-
budget one-bedroomapartments in the heartof town. Simple, modernfurnishings and fullyserviced: minimum 6nights’ stay. d 53 Coch-rane St • Map U3 • (0117)970 6999 • www.sacoapartments.co.uk • ££
Glasgow: Luxury Hotels
Streetsmart
St Jude’s
£ under £50££ £50–100
£££ £100–150££££ £150–200
£££££ over £200
Price Categories
For a standard,double room pernight (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
Note: Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept credit cards and have en-suite bathrooms
146
Glasgow: Mid-Range and Budget pristine facilities and prettygood styling. All have TVsand modem points. d 110Bath St • Map T2 • (0141)353 0800 • ££
Merchant LodgeThe former home of
Glasgow’s tobacco mer-chants, the house hasbeen renovated to provide40 individually styledrooms (so choose withcare), all with shiny pinefloors. Owned by theGlasgow Hotel Group,who also have theTownhouse Hotel, nearKelvingrove Park. d 52Virginia St • Map U3• (0141) 552 2424 • ££
NovotelWhile the Novotel is
unlikely to feed the mindwith recollections of a trulymemorable stay, it doesthe job of providing simple,comfortable accommoda-tion with inoffensivedécor, and food and drinkreadily at hand in thepleasant bar/restaurant.d 181 Pitt St • Map S2• (0141) 222 2775 • £££
Willow HotelRenfrew Street is
lined by small, B&B-typehotels, and the Willow,along with the VictorianHouse (see MerchantLodge entry), are thebest of them. All have acertain old-fashionedcharm, but the Willowhas a little more spruce-ness about it. Simplyadorned rooms, and welllocated for a stroll downthe hill into town.
The BrunswickA smart, copper-
topped building in thebuzzing Merchant Cityarea. A modern-chicinterior that’s not tooformal, and a delightfulpenthouse apartment,which can sleep six – allcan squeeze into thesauna, too. d 106–108Brunswick St • Map U3• (0141) 552 0001 • ££
Cathedral HouseAn impressively
turreted Neo-Gothic red-brick house, formerly theadministrative quartersfor the nearby Cathedral,which some rooms over-look.The restaurant servesrather good Scottish cuis-ine. Very atmospheric,aided by the presence oftwo live-in ghosts. d 28–32Cathedral Sq • Map V3• (0141) 552 3519 • £££
Babbity BowsterNamed after an 18th-
century wedding dance,this inn was built around1790 and maintains a tradi-tional style. The rooms sitabove the popular and con-vivial bar and restaurant(see p95) and offer fitting-ly simple, yet comfortablelodgings. d 16–18 Black-friars La • Map U3 • (0141)552 5055 • ££
BewleysBehind its curiously
angular (and, frankly, gob-smackingly ugly) glassfaçade, Bewleys offerssuperb value for money.Very central location, andspacious rooms with
d Renfrew St • Map S1• (0141) 332 2332 • £
Ibis HotelLike its neighbour,
Novotel, Ibis isn’t a pros-pect to get the heartracing, but it does provideeven better value, achievedthrough an even tightereconomy of scale in thebedrooms and, particular-ly, the bathrooms. Centrallocation, and as a placeto take a shower and curlup for the night, driftingoff to late-night TV, it’shard to beat for price.d West Regent St • MapS2 • (0141) 225 6000 • ££
Glasgow Back-packers Hostel
Superbly sited hostel,high up on the fringes ofKelvingrove Park. Smalldorms for the most part,plus the odd twin room;separate bathrooms. TheSYHA hostel is just a fewdoors along. d 17 ParkTerrace • Map V1 • (0141)332 9099 • Closed in winter• No credit cards • £
Euro Hostel Situated on the river
front this place is a crossbetween a hostel andbudget hotel, and is onlya two minute walk froma variety of shops andrestaurants. A range ofen-suite accommodationis available, from singlerooms to 14-bed dorm-itories with bunk beds allround. d 318 Clyde St• Map S3 • (0141) 222 2828• No credit cards • www.euro-hostels.co.uk • £
Stre
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art Left Babbity Bowster sign Centre Willow Hotel Right The Brunswick hotel bar
Note: Unless otherwise stated all hotels accept credit cardsand have en-suite bathrooms
147
extensive leisure facilities,including a large pool,tennis courts and amarina. Three AA-rosettedining room, plus an all-day Marina Bar restaurant.d Nr Luss • Map F4• (01389) 755565 • £££££
Tomdoun Hotel,Glengarry
A fine old Victoriansporting lodge that offersconvivial hospitality. B&Bonly, or join all the guestsaround a table for dinner.A host of munroes toclimb nearby, and fishingand stalking arranged.Warm fires and dryingroom. d Nr Invergarry• Map D3 • (01809) 511218• www.tomdoun-sporting-lodge.com • ££
Jedforest Hoteland Restaurant,
JedburghSet in 35 acres oflandscaped gardens andgrounds, this newly refurb-ished, beautiful, four-starhotel comes equippedwith its own award-winningrestaurant, which servesexceptional cuisine.d Camptown, Jedburgh• Map G6 • (01835) 840222• [email protected] • £££
Busta HouseHotel, Shetland
Remote and peaceful, thisis one of the great get-away-from-it-all retreats.First-class in every respectand detail (see p45).d Brae • Map A1 • (01806)522506 • www.bustahouse.com • £££
Isle of EriskaHotel, Ledaig
Extravagant luxury on anisland sanctuary near themouth of Loch Linnhe.This should be the defi-nition of good living (seep44). d Map E3 • (01631)720371 • www.eriska-hotel.co.uk • £££££
Boath House,Moray
A Georgian mansion setamid gardens and wood-land, this is not just ahotel but also a retreat.Sauna, spa, gym and afull range of beauty treat-ments, including Ayurvedicremedies. Good healthyfood, too. d Auldearn,Nairn • Map D4 • (01667)454896 • www.boath-house.com • ££££
Flodigarry CountryHouse, Skye
Close to the sea andbelow the TrotternishRidge stands this 19th-century mansion, whichretains many periodfeatures, including amagnificent billiard room.Marvellous views fromthe sunny conservatory.Affordable retreat with aglowing reputation forgood food. d Staffin, Isleof Skye • Map C2 • (01470)552203 • www.flodigarry.co.uk • £££
Cameron House,Loch Lomond
An enduring favourite towhich many stars hop byhelicopter from Glasgow.Right on Loch Lomond,this turreted mansion has
Fauhope, MelroseBuilt in 1897, this
secluded house hasenchanting views to theRiver Tweed and EildonHills. Tastefully decoratedand impeccable hospitali-ty. The food is excellentas Fauhope is run bySheila Robson, restau-rateur of Marmions (seep83). For comfort andprice, this ranks amongthe best in the Borders.d Gattonside, Melrose• Map G5 • (01896) 823184• ££
Glen Clova Hotel,Glen Clova
Recently refurbished andplumped up withfeathers, this excellentold hotel offers characterand relaxation in the bestof central Scotland’sscenery. From a bunk-house to a four-posterbed, and bar snacks tocordon bleu, this placeoffers beds and food forall needs. d Nr Kirriemuir,• Map E5 • (01575) 550350• www.clova.com • ££
Kinnaird, DunkeldAt the top end of the
market, this ivy-clad man-sion is enveloped in itsown estate, through whichthe gamekeeper will takeyou on a personal tour.From the embroidered“K” on the linen to theteddy on the bed, every-thing is perfectly set.Food à la mode by amulti-prize-winning chef.d Map E5 • (01796) 482440• www.kinnairdestate.com• £££££
Country House Hotels
Streetsmart
Left Isle of Eriska Hotel Right Boath House
£ under £50££ £50–100
£££ £100–150££££ £150–200
£££££ over £200
Price Categories
For a standard,double room pernight (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
148
Historic Houses and CastlesCulloden House,Inverness
Bonnie Prince Charliestayed here (he comman-deered the place in 1746)and the hosts have dinedout on the story ever since.Glistening chandeliersand Adams plasterworkenhance a building of ex-ceptional architecture.Every room uniquelydecorated, and superbdining. d Map D4 • (01463)790461 • www.cullodenhouse.co.uk • ££££
Balfour Castle,Orkney
An extraordinary retreat,its hospitality overseenby the remarkableZawadskis (see p45).d Shapinsay • Map A5• (01856) 711282 • www.balfourcastle.co.uk • £££
Shieldhill Castle,Biggar
Established in 1199, thisvenerable castle offersundiluted comfort … aswell as over 90 malts inthe Gun Room Bar. Eat àla carte or more cheaplyin the Armoury, where thechef’s experimental dishesare offered. d Map G5• (01899) 220035 • www.shieldhill.co.uk • £££
KnockinaamLodge, Portpatrick
A romantic setting, nextto the sea. A refinedestablishment whosecharges include dinnerand breakfast (see pp83).d Map H3 • (01776) 810471• www.knockinaamlodge.co.uk • ££££
Skibo Castle,Dornoch
Madonna and Bill Clintonstay here, and if £900per day fazes you, don’tread on. Scotland’s mostexpensive hotel is in facta club: you may stay once,after that you must join inorder to re-acquaint your-self with the luxurioussurrounds. Golf galore,unbelievable quality and,of course, very discreet.d Map C4 • (01862)894600 • www.carnegieclub.co.uk • £££££ plus
Inverlochy Castle,Fort William
So long among Scotland’selite it has become theyardstick for excellence.Sumptuous décor, falconrydisplays on the lawn anda surrounding mountainlandscape. The King ofNorway presented thedining room furniture, andhe wouldn’t be disappoint-ed with what’s servedupon it. d Torlundy, FortWilliam • Map E3 • (01397)702177 • www.inverlochy.co.uk • £££££
Kildrummy CastleHotel, Nr Alford
Outstanding baronialhome with a magnificentstairway. The hotel blendscolonial-like extravagancewith eiderdown comfort.Here, you feel like a mil-lionaire’s best friend. Finefood and a wine list thatspans the globe adds upto a grand experience. d
Map D5 • (01975) 571288 • www.kildrummycastlehotel.co.uk • ££££
Ednam HouseHotel, Kelso
Classic Georgian mansion,with an outlook over theRiver Tweed – a majordraw for its rooms andclassy restaurant. Thebuilding retains periodfeatures and, thoughslightly heavy-handedwith patterns, its clutterof fishing paraphernaliaadds a homely feel.d Map G6 • (01573)224168 • www.ednamhouse.com • £££
Glenfinnan HouseHotel, Glenfinnan
An imposing 18th-century pine-panelledstately home which over-looks Loch Shiel. Excellentvalue, the rooms rangingin price according toviews, this hotel hasgood home cooking anda bar where folk musi-cians often gather. d MapE3 • (01397) 722235 • £££
Easter DunfallandyCountry House,
PitlochryIn a tranquil locationoverlooking the Tummelvalley, this small countryhouse has just three bed-rooms. Voted into the top20 B&Bs for the whole ofBritain, Easter Dunfallandyis inexpensive rural living,where the day begins witha hearty Highland break-fast. No children under12 are allowed, no dogsand no risk of disturbanceto the tranquillity. d MapE4/5 • (01796) 474128• www.dunfallandy.co.uk • ££
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art Left Inverlochy Castle Centre Kildrummy Castle Hotel Right Culloden House
www.celticcastles.com provides an on-line booking service forcastles with accommodation throughout Scotland
149
built over 200 years ago.Cosy rooms (only three)and a conservatory over-looking Loch Eriboll.Children-friendly, and ascrumptious restaurant(see p129). d Loch Eriboll,Nr Durness • Map B4• (01971) 511367 • ££
Old Pines,Spean Bridge
This restaurant-with-rooms is a Scandinavian-style house with a “BestSmall Hotel in Britain”award. Single-storey, easywheelchair access, playarea for children and viewsto Ben Nevis through thelovely pine trees. Dinner(by Master Chef SukiBarber) included with ac-commodation (see p115).d Map E3 • (01397) 712324• www.oldpines.co.uk • ££££
Kinkell House,Cromarty Firth
A delightful country house,which catches the sunriseover the Cromarty Firthand the sunset over BenWyvis. Furnished anddecorated with an aes-thete’s eye, this relaxinghome is outstanding value,with a fine à la carte menueach evening. d Conor Br,Nr Dingwall • Map C/D4• (01349) 861270 • £££
Dunduff House,Ayrshire
This imposing farmhousewith a stately round toweroverlooks the sea and isgazed upon by shaggyHighland cattle. A fineB&B that welcomes all,except smokers and
Ivybank GuestHouse, Inverness
In her home of immensecharm Catherine Cameronruns an exceptional openhouse, which honours thefinest tradition of Highlandhospitality. Great comfort,run of her library and arelaxing sense of freedomare what make a stayhere so memorable. d 28Old Edinburgh Rd • Map D4• (01463) 232796 • ££
Fiorlin, MelroseClose to the abbey
and set inside its ownwalls in a quiet cul-de-sac, this B&B offers very comfortable self-contained accomodation.Shop and restaurants arenearby. The owners arevery supportive of anyguests needs. d Abbey St • Map G5 • (01896)822984 • www.melroseaccommodation.co.uk • ££
Woodston FishingStation, St Cyrus
Up above St Cyrus beach,this guest house com-prises a huddle of historicbuildings. The FishingStation was establishedin 1826 and to it wasadded a Victorian villa andvaulted ice house, all nowproviding splendid accom-modation at unbeatablerates. d Map E6 • (01674)850226 • www.woodstonfishingstation.co.uk • ££
Port-na-Con,Loch Eriboll
Within a pebble toss ofthe sea, Port-na-Con is aformer Customs House
pets. d Dunure, on coastroad between Ayr andCulzean Castle • Map G3/4• (01292) 500225 • www.gemmelldunduff.co.uk • ££
Newton of NydieFarmhouse,
St Andrews A stone-built farmhouseseven minutes’ drive fromSt Andrews. Surroundedby wheatfields, it is aspacious home with aprivate lounge and chairsyou can disappear into.Huge breakfasts; non-smoking. d Map F5• (01334) 850204 • ££
The Famous Bein Inn, Glenfarg
Originally a drover’s inndating back 140 years, thishostelry fulfils its claimof being “a little bit differ-ent”. Flower-bedecked andslightly kitsch on theexterior, inside its bar isa temple to rock music.Live “unplugged” sessionsmake this a unique placeto eat, drink and (possibly)sleep. d Glenfarg, Perth• Map E5 • (01577) 830216• www.beininn.com • ££
Bimini GuestHouse, Aberdeen
Only 5 minutes awayfrom the city centre andbeachfront attractions,this family run guesthouse oozes “quality”,both in terms of décorand the delicious cuisinethat is carefully prepared.d 69 Constitution St, Aber-deen • Map D6 • (01224)646912 • www.bimini.co.uk• ££
Mainland Guest Houses and B&Bs
Streetsmart
Left Ivybank Guest House Right Woodston Fishing Station
£ under £50££ £50–100
£££ £100–150££££ £150–200
£££££ over £200
Price Categories
For a standard,double room pernight (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
Note: Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept credit cards and have en-suite bathrooms
150
Island Guesthouses and B&Bscourse and paths to GoatFell. Homemade short-bread and preserves,eggs from runabout hensand other healthy farmproduce. d Glen Cloy Rd,Brodick • Map G3 • (01770)302351 • www.SmoothHound.co.uk/hotels/glencloy.html • ££
College of the Holy Spirit,
Isle of CumbraeOvernight or weeklyaccommodation in ahistoric college adjoiningBritain’s smallest cath-edral, the Cathedral ofthe Isles. Full and halfboard available, depend-ing on the currentprogramme. A timelessand deeply spiritual placeto rest mind and body.d Firth of Clyde • Map F/G3• (01475) 530353 • www.argyll.anglican.org • £
Carradale Guest-house, Shetland
This fine old stonehouse, with flower parkand museum nearby, iscentrally located, close toshops and restaurants.Ideal accommodationanytime, but especiallygood for the Up Helly Aafestival (see p37). d 36 King Harald St,Lerwick • Map B2 • (01595)692251 • £
Marygarth Manse,Orkney
The small island ofSanday is a gem, andMrs Flett runs a superbguesthouse here in thisrambling, old, Victorian
Glenmachrie Coun-try House, Islay
This working farm is alsoa wildlife sanctuary andeco-conscious zone. Alas-dair and Rachel Whyte aretending their corner of theplanet, and to share theirhome is to experiencecomfort, hospitality, organ-ic food and, of course,natural harmony. Strictlynon-smoking. d Port Ellen• Map G2 • (01496) 302560• ££
Northbay House,Barra
A sparklingly modernguesthouse, convertedfrom a schoolhouse closeto Barra’s famous beaches.Laundry facilities, packedlunches and wheelchairaccess, too. Non-smoking;no pets. Only two bed-rooms, but self-cateringalso possible. d Map D1• (01871) 890255 • ££
Kirkapol GuestHouse,Tiree
Through lancet windows,this converted churchgives views over Hawaii-like stretches of beach.A quiet repose on thisbeautiful island, withsimple en-suite roomsand dinners available byrequest. d Gott Bay,Scarnish • Map E1 • (01879)220729 • www.kirkapoltiree.co.uk •££
Glen Cloy FarmGuesthouse, Arran
Lovely ivy-clad home in apeaceful glen just outsideBrodick. A short distanceaway are the castle, golf
manse. She welcomeschildren and pets andcaters for special diets. A native Orcadian up-holding the islanders’tradition of hospitality.d Sanday • Map A5/6• (01857) 600467 • £
Cuin Lodge, MullThe Aitkens have
turned this 19th-centuryshooting lodge into alovely guesthouse, set inpeaceful countryside out-side the village of Dervaig.Panoramic views of LochCuin and Ben More, andgood home cooking for anevening meal. d Dervaig• Map E2 • (01688) 400346• www.cuin-lodge.mull.com • £
Viewfield House,Skye
A rambling building thathas been a family housefor 200 years. Guests aremade welcome andeveryone dines together.d Portree • Map D2• (01478) 612217 • ££
Ardhasaig House,Isle of Harris
Set by one of the mostpicturesque roads in theisles, this 1904 househas been completely re-furbished, while retainingcertain period features.Light décor, simple fur-nishings, captivatingviews – a B&B of thehighest calibre, with theoption of dinner. A self-catering cottage is alsoavailable. d Ardhasaig • Map C2 • (01859) 502066 • ££
Stre
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art Left Northbay House Centre Cuin Lodge Right Ardhasaig
For more island getaways see pp44–5
151
rating, and there’s plentyof good walking. Plainhostel in a red stone build-ing – but what a setting!d Coldingham Sands, Eye-mouth • Map F6 • 22 Mar–Sep • (01890) 771298 • £
GlenfinnanSleeping Car,
GlenfinnanThe most unusual bedsin Scotland are to befound in a railway sleepingcoach, which has ceasedrolling and now standsat Glenfinnan StationMuseum. Sleeps ten, andyou can pay by the nightor hire the whole wagonby the week. All-day lightmeals served in adjacentcoach. d Glenfinnan Sta-tion Museum • Map E3• (01397) 722295 • £
The Burgh Lodge,Falkland
Accommodation for 36 isprovided here, and youchoose: backpackerdormitory, two twinrooms, four family, andtwo for disabled. Set inthe centre of this lovelyvillage and with superviews of the Lomondhills from the roundel.Very friendly and cheap.Bed linen supplied andfree hot drinks. d BackWynd • Map F5 • (01337)857710 • Mar–New Year • £
RowardennanYouth Hostel,
nr DrymenOne of the busiest youthhostels because of itslocation: on the banks ofLoch Lomond and also on
Carbisdale CastleYouth Hostel,
CulrainWhere your home is yourcastle. Scotland’s mostmagnificent hostel andone that should not bemissed (see p63). d MapC4 • (01549) 421232 • Mar–Oct • £
Lochranza YouthHostel, Arran
In a beautiful situationbelow Arran’s mountains,close to the sea and anancient castle, rests Loch-ranza Hostel. Secluded ina woodland garden, thisold country house makesa great base for exploringthe island. Close to a busroute and with its ownsmall shop. d Lochranza• Map G3 • (01770) 830631• 1 Mar–26 Oct • £
Sands HolidayCentre, Gairloch
Beside a pristine lengthof beach, this grassycaravan site has a primelocation. The Cameronfamily are low on rulesand high on visitor enjoy-ment. Camp, caravan orhire a wooden sheiling(hut). The splendours ofTorridon, Inverewe andLoch Maree are nearby.d Map C3 • (01445) 712152• www.highlandcaravancamping.co.uk • £
ColdinghamHostel, Eyemouth
If you’re into surfing orkayaking, this is the place.But even if you’re not,the views across sandand surf are truly exhila-
the West Highland Waywalking path (see p42).Ben Lomond sweeps upat the back and at thefront is a private beach.Very popular with fami-lies, so book ahead.d Map F4 • 1 Mar–Oct• (01360) 870259 • £
Berneray YouthHostel, Berneray
Thatched cottage provid-ing primitive accom-modation in the moststunning situation. Justfour hops to the beach(see p45). d North Uist• Map C1 • www.gatliff.org.uk • £
Kinloch Castle,Rum
If you find yourself nearRum, make a beeline forthis incredible hostel – thecastle and island defy alldescriptions. It’s sure tobe an experience to con-jure reminiscences inyears to come (seepp44–5). d Map D2• (01687) 462037 • £
Sandyhills BayLeisure Park,
KirkcudbrightA grassy patch, with 30pitches for caravans ortents, a beach of its ownand an adjacent golfcourse. Spotless ameni-ties, a licensed shop andtake-away snacks are allsources of pride to theowners, the Gillespie fam-ily. Spectacular walks andsmugglers’ caves nearby.d Map H4 • (01557) 870267• Apr–Oct • www.gillespie-leisure.co.uk • £
Youth Hostels and Camp Sites
Streetsmart
Left Carbisdale Castle Right Rowardennan
£ under £50££ £50–100
£££ £100–150££££ £150–200
£££££ over £200
Price Categories
For a standard,double room pernight (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
152
Ind
ex
General IndexBabbity Bowster, Glasgow
93, 95, 146Backpackers, Royal Mile,
Edinburgh 144bagpipes 58Bain, Alexander 35Baird, John Logie 35Balfour Castle, Orkney 45,
148Ballater 105Balmoral 47, 104, 105Balmoral Hotel, Edinburgh
142banking 140Banks, Iain 33Bannockburn Heritage
Centre 97Barbour, John 33Barnhill, Jura 44Barra 118Barras, The (Glasgow) 94Barrie, J M 33bars and pubs in Edinburgh
76Battle of Bannockburn 32,
97Battle of Culloden 32, 111Battle of Flodden 32Beach Leisure Centre,
Aberdeen 61Beauly Firth 113Bell, Graham 35Bell, Rev Patrick 35Benbecula 122Ben Cruachan 40Ben Hope 41Ben Lomond 40Ben Macdui 40Ben Nevis 24, 40, 111Ben Vorlich 40Bennet’s, Edinburgh 76Berneray Youth Hostel 45,
151Bewleys, Glasgow 146Bible Tapestry 16–17Bimini Guest House,
Aberdeen 149Blair Castle 47, 88Blair Drummond Safari and
Adventure Park 97Boath House, Moray 147Bonaventure 123Bonawe Historic Iron
Furnace 100Bonham, The (Edinburgh)
142Bonnie Prince Charlie 15,
21, 32, 80, 112Book of Hours 17books 132Border Abbeys Way 42Borders Rugby Sevens 37
Page numbers in bold typerefer to main entries.
Aabbeys see churches and
abbeysAbbotsford House,
Melrose 82Aberdeen 103Aberdeen Art Gallery 103accommodation 141–151Acharacle 112Adam, Robert 7, 28, 29, 46,
72, 81Adulteress brought before
Christ, The (Giorgione) 91air travel 134, 135Airds Hotel, Appin 65, 101Albany, Edinburgh 142An Tuireann, Skye 123Andrew Fairlie, Gleneagles
65, 89Anstruther 85, 87Apex City Hotel, Edinburgh
143Applecross 114Applecross Inn 115Aquadome, Inverness 111Arbroath Abbey 88Archiestown Hotel 107Ardhasaig House, Isle of
Harris 150Ardnamurchan 112Ardoe House, Aberdeen 107Arduaine Gardens 51, 98Argyll Hotel, Iona 119Armadale Castle forest
walks 23Armadale Castle Gardens 21Aros Centre, Portree 20Arran 122art galleries see museums
and art galleriesart works 139Arthouse Hotel, Glasgow
145Arthur’s Seat, Edinburgh
11, 71Assynt Lochs 53Atrium, The (Edinburgh) 64,
71Auchindrain Township 100Auld Alliance, The
(Kircudbright) 83Autumn in Glencairn
(Paterson) 13Aviemore 30Aviemore Kart Centre 61
BB & Bs 141, 149, 150Ba’, The (Kirkwall) 37
Boreraig 23Borough, Edinburgh 144Boswell, James 23Botanical Gardens,
Glasgow 51, 92, 93bothies 141Botticelli, Sandro 12, 91Bow Bar, Edinburgh 76Breachacha Castle 44Brian Maule at Chandon
D’or 64, 95Bridgewater Madonna
(Raphael) 13Brodick Castle, Arran 99Brodie Castle 106Brodies 1 Backpackers
Hostel, Edinburgh 144Brunswick, The (Glasgow)
146Buchaille Etive Mor 41Burgh Lodge, The
(Falkland) 151Burns, Robert 10, 33, 78Burns National Heritage
Park, Alloway 82Burrell Collection and
Pollok Park, Glasgow 6,16–17, 93
Burrell, Sir William 16, 17bus services 135bus tours, Edinburgh 72Busta House Hotel,
Shetland 45, 129, 147But ‘n’ Ben, The
(Auchmithie) 89
CCaerlaverock Castle 46, 79Café Gondolfi, Glasgow 93,
95Café Royal Circle Bar,
Edinburgh 76Café Royal Oyster Bar,
Edinburgh 77Café St-Honoré, Le
(Edinburgh) 77Cairngorm Mountain
Railway 31Cairngorm Reindeer Centre
31Cairngorms, The 7, 30–31,
104Caledonian Brewery
72Caledonian Canal 24Caledonian Hilton,
Edinburgh 142Callander 99Calton Hill, Edinburgh
70Camera Obscura,
Edinburgh 10
153
ceilidhs 59Cellar, The (Anstruther) 65,
89Celtic Connections 36Channings, Edinburgh
142Chatters, Dunoon 101children’s attractions 60–61Churches, Eyemouth 83churches and abbeys
Arbroath Abbey 88Dornoch Cathedral 114Dryburgh Abbey 42, 81Dunfermline Abbey 85Elgin Cathedral 106Glasgow Cathedral 92Greyfriars Kirk,
Edinburgh 72High Kirk of St Giles,
Edinburgh 10, 71Italian Chapel, Orkney
128Jedburgh Abbey 42Kelso Abbey 42Melrose Abbey 42, 80Rosslyn Chapel 80, 81St Margaret’s Chapel,
Edinburgh 8Churchill Barriers, Orkney
128Citizens Theatre, Glasgow
94City Chambers, Glasgow
91, 93City Merchant, Glasgow
93, 95Clachaig Inn, Glencoe 115coach travel 134, 135Coldingham Hostel,
Eyemouth 151Coll 118College of the Holy Spirit,
Isle of Cumbrae 150Colonsay 117communications 140Conan Doyle, Sir Arthur 33Contemporary Arts Centre,
Dundee 87Corgaff Castle 105Cowal Way 43Craig Youth Hostel 62Craigievar Castle 47, 106Crail 85, 87Crannog Seafood
Restaurant, Fort William115
Crarae Gardens 51, 98Crathes Castle 105, 106Creagan House, Strathyre
101Creel Inn and Restaurant,
Orkney 127, 129Creetown Gemrock
Museum, Wigtown Bay 82
crime 137Crinan Canal 100crofting 119Cromlix House, Kinbuck
101Crook Inn, The
(Tweedsmuir) 83Crovie 62Crucifixion (Dali) 94Crynoch Restaurant,
Netherley 107Crystal Visitor Centre 72Cuillins, The 21, 22Cuin Lodge, Mull 150Culloden Battlefield 111Culloden House, Inverness
115, 148Culross 85cultural events 36–7Culzean Castle 7, 28–9, 46,
78Cumberland, The
(Edinburgh) 76curling 59cycling 135
DDali, Salvador 94Dallas Dhu Distillery, Nairn
106Dawyck Botanic Garden 50Deacon Brodie’s,
Edinburgh 76Dean Gallery, Edinburgh
71, 72Deep Sea World, North
Queensferry 60, 85, 87dentists 137Devil’s Staircase 27Dewar, James 35Dial, The (Edinburgh) 77disabled travel tips 138discounts 140, 141Discovery Point, Dundee 86doctors 137Dolly the Cloned Sheep 35dolphins 106Dome Bar, Edinburgh 76Dornoch Cathedral 114Doune Castle 100Dreamhouse Inc, Glasgow
145Drover’s Inn, The
(Inverarnan) 101Druimard Country House
Hotel, Mull 123Drum Castle 105, 106Drumlanrig Castle 79Dryburgh Abbey 81Duff House Gallery, Banff
106Dufftown 105Dun Caan 23Dunduff House, Ayrshire
149
Ind
ex
Cameron House, LochLomond 147
camping 141, 151Canaletto 72Canna 118Canova, Antonio 12Cape Wrath 125Cape Wrath Hotel 129car travel 133, 134, 135,
136, 137caravaning 141Carbisdale Castle Youth
Hostel 63, 151Cardow Whisky 57Cardow Distillery 57Carnoustie Championship
Course 54Carradale Guesthouse,
Shetland 150Castle and Gardens of
Mey, Thurso 125Castle Café, Edinburgh 8,
71Castlebay Bar, Barra 123castles 46–7
Armadale 21, 23Balfour, Orkney 45, 128Balmoral 47, 104, 105Blair 47, 88Breachacha 44Brodick, Arran 99Brodie 106Caerlaverock 46, 79Cawdor 47, 104Corgarff 105Craigievar 47, 106Crathes 105, 106Culzean 7, 28–9, 46, 78Doune 100Drum 105, 106Drumlanrig 79Dunrobin 114Dunottar 103Dunvegan 20Edinburgh 6, 8–9, 46, 69,
71Eilean Donan 47, 112Fyvie 104Glamis 46, 87Inveraray 98Kilchurn 100Kildrummy 106Rothesay, Bute 98Stalker 27Stirling 46, 97, 99Torosay, Mull 119Urquhart 25
Castleton House Hotel,Glamis 89
Cateran Trail 43Cathedral House, Glasgow
146Cawdor Castle 47, 104Ceilidh Place, The (Ullapool)
115
154
Ind
ex
Glasgow Gailes 54Glasgow Hilton 145Glasgow Jazz Festival 36Glasgow School of Art 94Glasgow Science Centre 6,
18–19, 60, 92glass 139Glen Affric 25, 113, 114Glen Clova 88Glen Clova Hotel, Glen
Clova 89, 147Glen Cloy Farm
Guesthouse, Arran 150Glen Isla 88Glencoe 7, 26–7, 112Glencoe Ski Centre 27Gleneagles 54Glenfarclas Distillery 57Glenfinnan House Hotel
148Glenfinnan Monument 112Glenfinnan Sleeping Car
151Glenkinchie Distillery 56Glenlivet Distillery 56, 105Glenmachrie Country
House, Islay 150Glenmore 112golf courses 54–5Grampian and Moray
102–107
map 102places to eat and drink
107Great Glen 7, 24–5
Great Glen WatersportsPark 24
Great Glen Way 42Greco, El 12, 106Greenhouse Restaurant,
Falkland 87Green Inn, Ballater 107Greenwich Pensioner, The
(Wilkie) 13Greyfriars Bobby 72Greyfriars Kirk, Edinburgh 72Group of Dancers, A
(Degas) 13guesthouses 141, 149, 150Gullane 54
HHalibut & Herring,
Edinburgh 73Hals, Frans 17Hamilton, Richard 71Handa Island 125Harris 119health 137Hector Russell, Edinburgh
73Henderson’s Salad Bar,
Edinburgh 12Herald House Hotel,
Edinburgh 144
FFair Isle, Shetland 128Fairy Glen 23Falkirk Wheel, The 79Falkland 87Falkland Palace 86families 60–61, 138Famous Bein Inn, The
(Glenfarg) 149Far North, The 124–129
map 124places to eat and drink
129Fauhope, Melrose 147ferries 134, 135festivals 36–7, 63Fife Coastal Path 43Fingal’s Cave 118, 119Fiorlin, Melrose 149Firebird, Glasgow 95Fishers, Leith 77fishing spots 52–3Five Sisters, The 41Fleming, Alexander 35Flodigarry Country House,
Skye 147food 65, 139football 136Formantine and Buchan
Way 43Fort Augustus 25, 113Fort George 25, 105Fort William 24, 111Forth Bridges 88Fouters, Ayr 83Foyers Falls 62, 113Fratelli Sarti, Glasgow 95Fyvie Castle 104
GGaelic language 58Gainsborough, Thomas 6,
13Gairloch Heritage Museum,
Achtercairn 114Gallery of Modern Art,
Glasgow 91, 93Galloway Forest Park 82gardens 50–51Gardenstown 62Gig on the Green 37Gigha 122Gigha Hotel, Isle of Gigha
44Giorgione 91Glamis Castle 46, 87Glasgay 37Glasgow 90–95
map 90places to eat and drink
95Glasgow Backpackers
Hostel 146Glasgow Cathedral and
Necropolis 92
Dunfermline Abbey andPalace 85
Dunkeld 88Dunlop, John 35Dunnet Head Tea Rooms
129Dunottar Castle 103Dunrobin Castle 114Dunvegan Castle 20
EEas A’Chual Aluinn Fall 128Easdale 122East Neuk 85, 87Easter Dunfallandy Country
House, Pitlochry 148Eddrachilles Hotel, Scourie
129Eden Court, Inverness 115Edinburgh 68–77
bars and pubs 76map 68places to eat 77shopping 73
Edinburgh Butterfly andInsect World 72
Edinburgh Castle 6, 8–9,46, 69, 71
Edinburgh Dungeon 72Edinburgh International
Book Festival 36Edinburgh International
Festival 36Edinburgh International
Film Festival 36Edinburgh International
Fringe Festival 36Edinburgh International
Jazz and Blues Festival 37
Edinburgh InternationalScience Festival 36
Edinburgh Military Tattoo36
Edinburgh Zoo 60, 71Ednam House Hotel, Kelso
148Edradour Distillery 56Eglinton Youth Hostel,
Edinburgh 144Eigg 118Eilean Donan Castle 47,
112Eilean Iarmian Hotel, Skye
123electricity 132Elephant House, The
(Edinburgh) 14Elgin Cathedral 106Elgol to Loch Coruisk walk
23Elie 85, 87emergencies 137Eriskay 45, 122Euro Hostel, Glasgow 146
155
International Newsagent 73internet access 140inventions 34–5Inveraray Castle 98Invercoe Loch Walk 26Inverewe Gardens 51, 113Inverleith Hotel, Edinburgh
143Inverlochy Castle, Fort
William 115, 148Inverness 25, 111, 113Inverness Museum and Art
Gallery 111Iona 32, 118, 119Islay 117Isle of Eriska Hotel, Ledaig
44, 147Ivybank Guest House,
Inverness 149
JJacobite Steam Train 24, 112James IV 32James VI 9, 32Jarlshof, Shetland 126Jedburgh Abbey 42Jedforest Hotel and
Restaurant, Jedburgh 147Jenners, Edinburgh 73jewellery 139John Knox’s House,
Edinburgh 11, 71Johnson, Samuel 23Jura 117Jura Hotel 123Jury’s Inn Edinburgh 144
KKailzie Gardens 50Keith 105Kelburn Country Centre 61Kelso Abbey 42Kelvingrove Art Collection,
Glasgow 91Kerrera 122Kilchurn Castle 100Kildrummy Castle 106Kildrummy Castle Hotel,
Alford 148Killiecrankie 88Kilmartin Glen 100Kilmartin House Café 101Kilmichael Country House,
Arran 123kilts 58, 139Kinkell House, Cromarty
Firth 149Kinloch Castle Hostel, Rum
44, 151Kinlochbervie Hotel 129Kinlochleven 27Kinnaird, Dunkeld 147Kintyre 100Kirkapol Guest House,
Tiree 150
Hermaness NationalNature Reserve,
Shetland 127High Kirk of St Giles,
Edinburgh 10, 71Highland dancing 58Highland games 58Highland Park Distillery 57Highland traditions 58–9Highland Wildlife Park 30Highlands, The 110–115
map 110places to eat and drink 115
high season 132High Street Hostel,
Edinburgh 144Hilton Glasgow Grosvenor
145Historic Scotland 133history 32–3Hockney, David 71Hogmanay 37holidays 132Hollow Mountain Power
Station 100Honourable Mrs Graham,
The (Gainsborough) 13Hopetoun House,
Edinburgh 72Hornby Portal 16hospitals 137hostels 141, 146, 151hotels 141
country house hotels 147Edinburgh: budget and
hostels 144Edinburgh: luxury hotels
142Edinburgh: mid-range
and boutique hotels 143Glasgow: luxury hotels
145Glasgow: mid-range and
budget 146historic houses and
castles 148island retreats 44–5
House for an Art Lover,Glasgow 93
Howard, The (Edinburgh) 142Howie’s, Edinburgh 77Hunterian Art Gallery,
Glasgow 94Hydroponicum, Achiltibuie
51, 114
IIain Mellis, Edinburgh 73Ibis Hotel, Edinburgh 144Ibis Hotel, Glasgow 146IMAX Theatre, Glasgow 18Indigo Yard, Edinburgh 76Ingrams, Edinburgh 143Intercontinental, The
George, Edinburgh 143
Kirkwall, Orkney 126, 127Knockinaam Lodge,
Portpatrick 83, 148Knox, John 11, 32Kylesku 63
LLagavulin Distillery 56Lairg 114Landmark Forest Theme
Park, Aviemore 61Langs, Glasgow 145Lanimer Day 37Laphroaig Distillery 56Lemon Tree, The
(Aberdeen) 107Leonardo da Vinci 13Lewis 119Lewis Chessmen 14Liathach 41Lindsay, Bowman 34Lismore 122Lister, Joseph 34Lithlingow Palace 80Loch Awe 38Loch Coruisk 21, 23Loch an Eilean 30Loch Fitty 52Loch Fyne Oyster Bar 101Loch Garten Osprey Centre
31Loch Katrine 38, 99Loch Leven 27Loch Lochy 24Loch Lomond 38, 97Loch Maree 39Loch Morar 39, 62Loch Morlich 31Loch Ness 7, 24–5, 39, 111,
113Loch Ness Monster, 24,
25, 113Loch Skeen 38Loch Torridon 39Loch Trool 38Loch Tummel 39Lochranza Youth Hostel,
Arran 151lochs 38–9Lock Inn, Fort Augustus 24,
113Logan Botanic Garden 50Lomellini Family, The (Van
Dyck) 13Laurence Stephen Lowry
91Luing 122
MM & D’s Scotland’s Theme
Park, Motherwell 60, 94McAdam, John 34Macallan Distillery 57MacDiarmid, Hugh 33MacDonald, Flora 21
Ind
ex
156
Ind
ex
museums and art galleries(cont.)Verdant Works, Dundee
88West Highland Museum,
Fort William 111Writers’ Museum,
Edinburgh 10Mylne, Robert 98
NNairn 55Napier, John 35Nardini’s, Largs 83National Gallery of
Scotland, Edinburgh 6,12–13, 69, 71
National Trust for Scotland133
Natural History Centre,Glenmore 112
Neist Point Lighthouse 22New Lanark 79New Town, Edinburgh 69Newton of Nydie
Farmhouse, St Andrews 149
Nineteen Eighty-Four(Orwell) 44
North and East ofEdinburgh 84–89
map 84places to eat and drink
89North and West of
Glasgow 96–101
map 96places to eat and drink
101North Uist Lochs 53Northbay House, Barra 150Novotel, Glasgow 146Number 17, Edinburgh 143
OOban 100Off the Rails, Plockton 115Old Bridge Inn, Aviemore 30Old Course Hotel, St
Andrews 87, 89Old Forge Music Venue 62Old Man of Hoy, Orkney
125, 126, 127Old Man of Storr 21Old Monastery, The 107Old Pines, Spean Bridge
115, 149Old Prestwick 55Old Woman Cooking Eggs,
An (Velazquez) 12Olorosso, Edinburgh 77One Devonshire Gardens,
Glasgow 145Opal Lounge, Edinburgh 76opening hours 132, 136
museums and art galleries(cont.)Auchindrain Township
100Burns National Heritage
Park, Alloway 82Burrell Collection,
Glasgow 6, 16–17, 93Contemporary Arts
Centre, Dundee 87Creetown Gemrock
Museum, Wigtown Bay 82
Duff House Gallery, Banff 106
Gairloch Heritage Mus-eum, Achtercairn 114Gallery of Modern Art,
Glasgow 91, 93Glasgow Science Centre
6, 18–19, 60, 92Hunterian Art Gallery,
Glasgow 94Huntly House Museum,
Edinburgh 11Inverness Museum and
Art Gallery 111Kelvingrove Art
Collection, Glasgow 91Maritime Museum,
Aberdeen 103McLellan Galleries,
Glasgow 91Museum of Childhood,
Edinburgh 11Museum of Edinburgh 11Museum of the Isles,
Skye 21Museum of Scotland,
Edinburgh 6, 14–15, 69Museum of Transport,
Glasgow 92National Gallery of
Scotland, Edinburgh 6, 12–13, 69, 71
Royal Museum, Edinburgh 6, 14–15, 69
St Mungo Museum of Religious Art, Glasgow 94
Scottish Fisheries Museum, Anstruther 88
Scottish Mining Museum, Edinburgh 72
Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art, Edinburgh 71
Scottish National Portrait Gallery, Edinburgh 72
Sharmanka Kinetic Gallery, Glasgow 94
Skye Museum of Island Life 21
Stratosphere, Aberdeen 103
Macdonald, Margaret 93Mackintosh, Charles 35Mackintosh, Charles
Rennie 71, 93, 94McLellan Galleries,
Glasgow 91MacLeod’s Tables 23Macmillan, Kirkpatrick
34Maes Howe, Orkney 126,
127Maiden, The 14Malmaison, Edinburgh
143Malmaison, Glasgow 145Malt Whisky Trail 31Manderston House, Duns
82maps 132Maritime Museum,
Aberdeen 103Marmions, Melrose
83Marygarth Manse, Orkney
150Mary Queen of Scots 9,
11, 86Massacre of Glencoe
27Maxwell, James C 35Mellerstain House
81Melrose 81Melrose Abbey 80Merchant Lodge, Glasgow
146midges 136Millennium Hotel Glasgow
145Milo’s, Macduff 107Mirrales, Enric 11Mishnish, The (Mull)
123Mod, The 59Monboddo, Edinburgh
76Monet, Claude 12, 13money 140Montrose Basin Wildlife
Centre 88Monymusk Reliquary 14Moray see Grampian and
MorayMoray Coast villages
105Moulin Hotel, Moulin 89Mousa Broch, Shetland
127Muck 118Mull 117, 119Munch, Edvard 71Munroes 40–41museums and art galleries
Aberdeen Art Gallery 103
157
RRaasay 21Radisson SAS Hotel,
Edinburgh 143Raeburn, Henry 6, 13, 106Raeburn House, Edinburgh
144Ramsay, Allan 6, 13, 106Rannoch Moor 27Raphael 12, 13Rembrandt 6, 12, 13, 17,
72, 91, 94restaurants
Edinburgh 77Far North 129Glasgow 95Grampian and Moray 107Highlands 115North and East of
Edinburgh 89North and West of
Glasgow 101Southern Uplands 83Top 10 64–5West Coast Islands 123
Rev Robert Walker Skatingon Duddingston Loch
(Raeburn) 13Rick’s, Edinburgh 76, 143Ring of Brodgar, Orkney
127, 128River Findhorn 52River Spey 30, 52River Tay 52River Tweed 52Robert the Bruce 8, 32, 80,
85, 97Rogano, Glasgow 95Roman Camp, The
(Callander) 101Room in the Town, A
(Edinburgh) 77Rosslyn Chapel 80, 81Rothesay Castle, Bute 98Rowardennan Youth Hostel,
nr Drymen 151Rowling, J K 33Royal Botanic Garden,
Edinburgh 50, 70Royal Deeside 104Royal Dornoch 55Royal Highland Show 37Royal Mile, Edinburgh
10–11, 69, 71Royal Museum, Edinburgh
6, 14–15, 69Royal Terrace Hotel, The,
Edinburgh 142Royal Yacht Britannia, Leith
70RSPB Forsinard Peatlands
Reserve 128Rubens, Peter Paul 12,
72Rum 118
Orkney 125Orkney Lochs 53Oronsay 117Orwell, George 44Our Dynamic Earth,
Edinburgh 60, 70, 71Owen, Robert 79
PPalace of Holyroodhouse,
The 11Paolozzi, Sir Eduardo 72passports 132Paterson, James 13Patriots (Howson) 91Peat Inn, The (Cupar) 65,
87, 89Peebles 81People’s Palace, Glasgow 92Perth 86Philipburn Country House,
Selkirk 83phones 140Picasso, Pablo 71Pierowall Hotel, Orkney 129Pitlessie Fair (Wilkie) 13Pitlochry 87Pitmedden Garden 51, 103Pitweem 85, 87Plaisir du Chocolat,
Edinburgh 71Planetarium, Glasgow 18Playfair, William 13Plockton 114Plumed Horse,
Crossmichael 83Point, Edinburgh 143Pollok House 17Pollok Park see Burrell
Collection and Pollok Park
Poplars on the Epte (Monet)13
Port-na-Con, Loch Eriboll129, 149
Port Mor House, Muck 44,123
Portrait of a Gentleman(Hals) 17
Portree 20post 140Poussin, Nicolas 13Princes Square, Glasgow
93, 94Princes Street Gardens,
Edinburgh 68, 71Printmakers’ Workshop,
Edinburgh 73Provost Skene’s House,
Aberdeen 103
QQueen Anne Café,
Edinburgh 8Quiraing 21
SSabbatarianism 59SACO, Glasgow 145St Abb’s Head 82St Andrews 54, 86St Christopher’s Inn
Hostel, Edinburgh 144St Columba 32St Cuthbert’s Way 43St Fillan’s Crozier 14St Jude’s, Glasgow 95, 145St Kilda 63St Magnus Festival 37St Margaret’s Chapel,
Edinburgh 8St Mungo 92St Mungo Museum of
Religious Art, Glasgow 94
Salter, Stephen 35Sands Holiday Centre,
Gairloch 151Sandwood Bay 63Sandyhills Bay Leisure
Park, Kirkcudbright 151Satrosphere, Aberdeen 103Sauchiehall Street,
Glasgow 93Scapa Flow Visitor Centre,
Orkney 128Scenes from the Life of
Christ and of the Virgin 17Schiehallion 41Scotsman, Edinburgh 142Scott, Sir Walter 10, 33, 78,
82Scott’s View 81, 82Scottish Crannog Centre
100Scottish Fisheries
Museum, Anstruther 88Scottish Mining Museum,
Edinburgh 72Scottish National Gallery of
Modern Art, Edinburgh 71Scottish National Portrait
Gallery, Edinburgh 72Scottish National War
Memorial, Edinburgh 9Scottish Parliament 11, 33Scottish Seabird Centre,
North Berwick 82Scottish Sealife and Marine
Sanctuary 27Scottish Story-Telling
Centre, Edinburgh 10Scrabster 53Seascape, Shipping by
Moonlight (Monet) 13security 137self-catering
accommodation 138, 141Self-Portrait (Rembrandt) 17Self-Portrait aged 51
(Rembrandt) 13
Ind
ex
158
Ind
ex
Wwalking 135walking routes 22–3, 42–3,
62–3Wallace, William 8, 97Wallace Monument 97, 99Walton, Frederick 35Watson-Watt, Sir Robert 35Watt, James 33, 34Waverley Excursions,
Glasgow 94weather 132, 136Weisdale Mill, Shetland
129Welsh, Irvine 33West Coast Islands
116–123
map 116places to eat and drink
123West Highland Museum,
Fort William 111West Highland Way 42West Port Books,
Edinburgh 73whisky distilleries 56–7Whisky Trail 104Whistler, James 94Whistles, Edinburgh 73Wigtown 82Wilkie, David 13Willow Hotel, Glasgow 146Witchery by the Castle,
The (Edinburgh) 64, 77, 142
Woodston Fishing Station,St Cyrus 149
woollens 139World Pipe Band
Championships 37Writers’ Museum,
Edinburgh 10
YYoung, Sir James 35Young, William 91youth hostels see hostels
TT in the Park 37Talisker Distillery 20, 57Tarbet 62tartans 58, 139Taste of Scotland.com 133taxis 13563 Tay Street, Perth 89Telford, Thomas 24Tenement House, Glasgow
94Three Chimneys, Skye 64,
123Three Graces (Canova) 12Tibbie Shiels Inn, Selkirk 83Tigh-an-Truish, Clachan 101Tilson, Joe 71Timespan, Helmsdale 114Tiree 122Tiso, Edinburgh 73Titanic (Bersudsky) 91Titian 12Tomdoun Hotel, Glengarry
147Tomintoul 105Tongue Hotel 129Torosay Castle, Mull 119Torridon 113tourist information 133Tower, The (Edinburgh) 14,
64train travel 134, 135Traquair House,
Innerleithen 82Troon 55Trossachs National Park 97,
99Trotternish Ridge 22Turnberry 55
UUbiquitous Chip, Glasgow
95Udney Arms, Newburgh 107Uist islands 122Ullapool 63, 114UNESCO World Heritage
Site 79, 126Up Helly Aa 37Urquhart Castle 25
VValvona & Crolla,
Edinburgh 73Van Dyck 13VAT refunds 139Velazquez 6, 12Verdant Works, Dundee 88Viewfield House, Portree
150Virgin Adoring the Sleeping
Christ Child (Botticelli) 12visas 132Visit Britain 133Visit Scotland 133
Seven Sacraments (Poussin)13
Shadow of War (Hughes) 91Sharmanka Kinetic Gallery,
Glasgow 94Sheraton Grand, Edinburgh
142Sheriffmuir Inn, nr. Bridge
of Allan 99, 101Shetland 126–7Shetland Folk Festival 37Shieldhill Castle, Biggar
148shinty 59Ship Inn, The (Elie) 87, 89Shoki The Demon Queller 17shopping 73, 139Shore Inn, The (Portsoy)
107Sibbet House Apartments,
Edinburgh 143Silver Darling, Aberdeen
64, 107Skara Brae, Orkney 126, 127Skibo Castle, Dornoch 148Skye, Isle of 7, 20–23
Skye Museum of IslandLife 21
Sligachan to Glenbrittlewalk 22
Sligachan Hotel, Skye 20Smith, William 104smoking 132Smoo Cave, Durness 128Southern Upland Way 42Southern Uplands 78–83
map 78places to eat 83
Speyfest 37Speyside Way 42Staffa 118, 119stalking season 136Station Restaurant, Ballater
105Stenness, Orkney 127Stevenson, Robert Louis
10, 33Stirling Castle 46, 97, 99Stone of Destiny 8, 9Stonehaven 106Storybook Glen, Aberdeen
61Strathspey Steam Railway
31Stravaigin, Glasgow 95Stromness, Orkney 127, 128Studies of a Dog’s Paw
(Leonardo da Vinci) 13Suisnish 23Summer Isles 122Summer Isles Hotel,
Achiltibuie 115Sutherland, Duke of 13Swanson Art Gallery,
Thurso 128
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The AuthorAlastair Scott is a freelance travel writerand photographer based in Edinburghand on the Isle of Skye.
Produced by BLUE ISLAND PUBLISHINGEditorial Director Rosalyn ThiroArt Director Stephen BereAssociate Editor Michael EllisDesigners Lee Redmond, Ian MidsonPicture Research Ellen RootProofreader & indexer Jane SimmondsFact Checker Sheena Scott
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Acknowledgments
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Abbeymount R2Abercromby Place M2Adam Street P4Ainslie Place K2Albany Street N1Alva Street K3Ann Street K2Atholl Crescent K4Bank Avenue J1Belford Road J3Belgrave Crescent J2Belgrave Place J2Bernard Terrace Q6Blackfriars Street P3Blair Street P4Bowmont Place Q5Bread Street L5Bristo Place N5Brougham Place M6Brougham Street L5Broughton Place N1Broughton Street N1Brown Street Q5Brunswick Street Q1Brunton Terrace R1Buccleuch Place P5Calton Road P3Cambridge Street L4Candlemaker Row N4Canning Street K4Canongate Q3Carlton Terrace R2Castle Terrace L4Castlehill M4Cathedral Lane P2Causewayside P6Chalmers Street M5Chambers Street N4Chapel Street P5Charles Street P5Charlotte Lane K3Charlotte Square L3Chester Street Gardens J3Cheyne Street K1Chrichton Street N5Circus Place L1Clarence Street L1Clerk Street Q6Coates Crescent K4Cockburn Street N3Comely Bank Row J1Cowgate P4Cumberland Street M1Dean Bridge K3Dean Park Crescent J2Dean Street K1Dewar Place K4Drummond Place N1Drummond Street P4Dublin Street N1Dumbiedykes Road Q4Dundas Street M1Dundonald Street M1East Cross Causeway P5East Market Street P3Easter Road R1Eglinton Crescent J4Elder Street N2Elm Row P1Esplanade M4Forth Street P1Fountainbridge L5Frederick Street M2George IV Bridge N4
George Square N5George Street M3Gifford Park P6Gillespie Crescent L6Gilmore Place L6Glenfinlas Street K3Gloucester Lane L2Grassmarket M4Great King Street M1Greenside Row P2Grindlay Street L4Grosvenor Crescent J4Grosvenor Street J4Grove Street K5Hamilton Place L1Hanover Street M2Haymarket Terrace J5Heriot Place M5Heriot Row L2High Riggs L5High Street P3Hill Place P4Hill Street L2Hillside Crescent Q1Holyrood Road Q3Home Street L5Hope Park Terrace P6Hope Street L3Howden Street P5Howe Street M2Hunter Square P3India Place K2Infirmary Street P4Jeffrey Street P3Johnston Terrace M4Keir Street M5King’s Stables L4Lansdowne Crescent J4Lauriston Gardens M5Lauriston Place M5Lauriston Street M5Lawnmarket N4Learmonth Gardens J1Learmonth Place J1Leith Street P2Leith Walk P1Lennox Street K2Leopold Place P1Leslie Place K1Leven Street L6Little King Street P2Lochrin Street L6London Road Q1London Street N1Lonsdale Terrace M6Lothian Road L4Lothian Street N4Lutton Place Q6Lynedoch Place K3Manor Place J4Market Street N3Maryfield R1Maryfield Place R1Meadow Lane P6Melville Crescent K3Montague Street Q6Montgomery Street P1Montrose Terrace R1Moray Place K2Morrison Street K4Nelson Street M1New Street P3Nicolson Square P5Nicolson Street P5
Niddry Street P4North Bank Street N3North Bridge P3North Castle Street L3North St Andrew Street N2North St David Street N2Northumberland Street M1Nourth Charlotte Street L3Old Tolbooth Wynd Q3Oxford Terrace J2Palmerston Place J4Panmure Place M5Parkside Street Q6Pleasance Q4Ponton Street L5Potterrow P5Princes Street L3Queen Street L2Queen’s Drive Q4Queensferry Road J2Queensferry Street K3Raeburn Place K1Raeburn Street K1Randolph Crescent K3Regent Road Q2Regent Terrace Q2Reid's Close Q3Richmond Lane P5Richmond Place P4Rose Street M3Rossie Place R1Rothesay Place J3Royal Circle L1Royal Crescent M1Royal Mile N4Royal Terrace Q1Rutland Square K4Rutland Street L3Saunders Street K1Semple Street L5Shandwick Place K4South Bridge P4South Charlotte Street L3South Learmonth Gardens J2South St Andrew Street N2South St David Street N3Spital Street L4St Andrew Square N2St Bernard’s Crescent K1St John Street Q3St Leonard’s Lane Q5St Leonard's Hill Q5St Leonard's Street Q5St Mary’s Street P3St Stephen Street L1Stafford Street K3Tarvit Street L6Teviot Place N5The Mall R3The Mound M4Thistle Street M2Union Street P1Victoria Street N4Viewcraig Gardens Q4Waterloo Place P2Waverley Bridge N3Wellington Street Q1West Approach Road K4West Nicolson Street P5West Port M4West Register Street N2West Tollcross L5William Street K4York Place N2
Index of Main Streets
k
£
N e w T o w n
D e a n
S t o c k b r i
W e s t E n d
HaymarketStation
B E L G R A V EC R E S C E N T
OX F O RDT E R RACE L ENNO X
S T R E E T
E T O N
T E RR
AC
E
DA
NU
B ES T
S T B ER NA R D ’ S
C R E S C E N T
L E S L I EP L A C E
DEA
N P
AR
K M
EWS
CO
MELY
BA
NK
ROW
S O U T H L E A R M O N T H G A R D E N SI N
D I A P
L A C E
SAU
ND
E RS
ST R
E ET
DO
UNE T E R R AC E
GLEN
F I NL A
S
S T RE E T
HO
P E S T
CH
AR
LOT T E L A
N. C
HA
RLO
T T E
S T RE E T
ROSE
ROSE
S. CHARLO
TTE
STREET
D E A N P A T H
BELG
RA
VE
PLA
CE
GRO
S V ENO R C R E SG L E N C A I RN
C R ES
L A N S D O W N EC R E S
GROSVENOR ST
C A N N I NG S
T R E E T
D E W A R P L A C E L A N E
RUT L AN
D ST
RU T L AN
DSQ
UAR E
CO
A T E S
C R E S C E N T
A T H O L L C R E S C E NT
L O C H R I N S T R E E T
W E S T
T O L L C R O S S
V A L L E Y
G L E N G Y
HIG
HR I
GG
S
K I N G ’ S S T A B L E S
S EMP L E S T R E E T
DEA
N P
AR
K S T
R AEBURN
STREET
CHEYN
E
STREET
P ON
TON
S T
L Y N E D O C H P L A C E
G I L L E S P I E C R E S
CLAR ENCE S T
EGLINTON CRES
BA
NK
AV
EN
UE
L EA
RM
ON
TH
PL
AC
E
D E A N S T R E E T
C I R C U S
R O YA L
M
O R A Y P L A C E
M O R A Y P L A C E
AIN
S L I E
P L AC
E
D E A NH A U G H
S T
RAEBURN PL
C I R C U S P L A C E
IND
I A S
TR
EE
T
H E R I O T
G
S P I TA L
S T
G I L M O R E P L A C E
F O U N TA I NB R I D
G E
GR
OV
E S
T
M O R R I S O N S T R E E T
T O R P I C H E N S T
B R E A D S T R E E T
C A S T L E
T E R R A C E
M E LV I L L E ST R E E T
S TA F F OR D
S T
G A R D E N S
R O T H E S AY P L A C E
C H E S T E R S
T R E E T
WI L L I A
M
A LV A ST
MA N
OR P L A C E
P A L ME R S T O
N P L A C E
WA L K E R
S T R E E T
B E L F O R DR O A D
NO
RT
HC
AS
TL E
ST
RE
ET
H I L L
Y O U N G S T R E E T
C H A R LO T T E
S Q U A R E
DE A N
T E R R A C E
C A NN
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GLO
UC
ES T E
R L A
NE
G R I N D L A Y S T
CAMBR ID
GEST
REET
D E A NP A R K
C R E S C E N T A NN S T R E E T
S TS T E P H E N
S T R E E T
C
S T R E E T
D R U M S H E U G H
T A R V
M O R R I S O N S T R E E T
S T R E E T
HAM
I LTO
NP L
A C E
MELVILLE
CRESCENT
DEW
AR
PL
R AND O LPHCRES
L E A R M O N T H G A R D E N S
BROUGHAM
T
Q U E E N S F E R R Y
RO
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DEAN
BRIDG
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Q U E E N S F E R R Y S T R E E T
G E
P R I N C E S
DA
LR
YR
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S H A N D WI C K P L
WE S T M
A I T L A N D S T
HO
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ST
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VE
NS
TR
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Q U E E N
H A Y M A R K E T T E R
LO
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IA
N
RO
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WE S T
R O A D
AP P R O
AC
H
Queen
GardensDean
Princ
Wat
erof
Leit
h
Water of Leith
Scottish National Galleryof Modern Art(600m)
Edinburgh Zoo3km (2 miles)
GeorgianHouse
Royal Botan
A720
A720
A702
A6095 A6106A7A772
A701
A90
A902
A902
A8
A900
A901
A70
A71
A71
M8
A720
Royal YachtBritannia
Royal BotanicGarden
EdinburghZoo
ButterflyWorld
CaledonianBrewery
National Galleryof Modern Art
EDINBURGH
Greater Edinburgh
Cramond
Currie
Hermiston
Gogar
FairmileheadColinton
MorningsideSighthill
Corstorphine
Liberton Gilmerton
Millerhill
Granton
Blackhall
Portobello
Meadowbank
Newington
Duddingston
Leith
Firth ofForth
Edinburgh(Turnhouse)
Airport
Hopetoun House6km (4 miles)
Crystal Visitor Centre8km (5 miles)
MiningMuseum
4km (2 miles)
Central Edinburgh
05 5miles km
n
£
@
O l d T o w n
S o u t h s i d
B r o u g h t o n
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WaverleyStation
B A R O N Y S T R E E T
F O R T H S T R E E T
HA
RT S T
UN I ON S T R E E TB R O U G H T O N P L
YORKL AN
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SOU
TH S T .
AN
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S T
NO
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AN
DR
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THISTLE ST NW LANE
STREET
NORTH
LANE
STREET
SOUTH
LANE
THISTLE ST SW LANE
THISTLE ST SE LANETHISTLE ST NE LANE
WEST
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SOU
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DA
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NO
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DA
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F I E L D S T
P A N M U R E P L A C E
L O N S D A L E T E R R A C E
Y L E T E R R A C E
G
L AUR I S TON S T R E E T
R O A D
BLAIR STREET
NI D
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BL A
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G IFFOR
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GEO
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S
DAVE
ADAM
I NF I R M A R Y S T
J E F F R E Y S T REE T
H E R I OT P L AC E
KE
IR STR
EE
T
M E A D O W L A N E
ELDER STREET
CATHEDRAL LANE
KING S
TREE
T
LITTLE
E .
BR
OU
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T ON
S T RE E T
HO
WE
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N O R T H U M B E R L A N D S T R E E TG R E A T
DU
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AS
S
TR
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T
ST
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ST
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ET
ST
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FR
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HA
NO
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BL I N
ST
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ET
A L B A N Y S T R E E T
A B E R C R O M B YP L A C E
C A L T O N R O A D
N
LAWNMAR KE T
CA STLE H I L L
C O W G A T E
D R U M M O N D S T R E E
C H A M B E R SS T R E E T
GE
OR
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I V B
RI D
GE
M A R K E T
S T R E E T
BU
CC
L EU
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ST R
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T
PO
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RO
W
CH
AP
EL
S T R E E T
L OT H
I AN
S T
V I C T O R I A S T
C A N D L E M A K E RR O W
C O C K B U R N STRE E T
L A U R I S T O NP L A C E
W E S T P O R T
J O H N S T O N T E R R A C E
T R E E T
WEST R ICH
L A D YL AW
S ON
S T R E E T
T H I S T L E
S T R E E T
R O S E
S T R E E T
S T . A N D R E W
S Q U A R E
TH
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OU
ND
E S P L ANADE
WA
VE
RL
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BR
I DG
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K I N G
C U M B E R L A N D S T R E E T
S T R E E T
DU
ND
ON
ALD ST
NELSO
N ST
S T R E E T
V I T S T
H I G H
S T R E E T
E A S T M A R K E T S T R E E T
TSKNABHTRON
D R U M M O N DL O N D O N
S T R E E T
P L A C E
TSS’
YRA
MTS
B R I S T O P L
FOR
RES
T R
OA
D
B U C C L E U C H P L A C E
C H R I C H T O N S T R E E T
WEST
NICOLSON
STREET
BROUGHAMPL
ST
T E V I O T P L
G E O R G ES Q U A R E
NICOLSONSQUARE
HUNTERSQUARE
O R G E
S T R E E T
S T R E E T
W A T E R L O O
Y O R K P L A C E
G R A S S M A R K E T
P L A C E
S T R E E T
M E L V I L L E
D R I V E
LEOPOLD
LE
I TH
W
AL
K
BR
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NO
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SO
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B
RI
DG
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ST
RE
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NI C
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SO
NS
TR
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T
C
The Meadows
BruntsfieldLinks
Street
Gardens
ces Street Gardens
CityObservatory
OldCollege
EdinburghFestivalTheatre
Scotch WhiskyCentre
GreyfriarsKirk
CameraObscura
Writers’ Museum
EdinburghDungeon
Jenners
City ArtCentre
High Kirk ofSt. Giles
NationalLibrary
Royal ScottishAcademy
Museum ofChildhood
NationalPortraitGallery
nical Gardens(750 metres)
Leith & RoyalYacht Britannia
3km (2 miles)
Gladstone’sLand
John Knox’sHouse
Story-tellinCentre
EdinburghCastle
NationalGallery
Royal Mile
Royal Museum &Museum
of Scotland
k
d e
D u m b i e d y k e s
C a l t o n
C a n o n g a t e
B R O W N S T R E E T
ST . J OH
N S T R E E T
DU
MB
I ED
YK
ES
RO
AD
V I E W C R AIG
GA
RDEN
S
R A N K E I L L O R S T R E E T
M O N T A G U E S T R E E T
P A R K S I D E S T
ST . LEONARD ’S LA
B E R N A R D T E R R A C E
H O P E P A R K
T E R R A C E
RD PK
L U T T O N P L A C E
R O Y A L T E R R A C E
WIN
DSO
R S T
R EE T
OW
BR
UN
SWI C
K
S T RE E T
WEL
LIN
GTO
NST
REET
BRU
NTO
N T
ERR
MA
R YF I
E LD
MA
R YF I
E LD
PL A
CE
R E G E N T
T E R R A C E
C A R L T O N
TERRACE
A B B E Y H I L L
EST
HO
WD
ENST
R ICHMOND
LANE
BOWMONT PL
STLEO
NARD'SHILL
STREET
CROSS C A U SEWAY
OLD TO
LBOO
TH WYN
D
CAUSEWAYSIDE
NE
W S
TR
EE
T
REID'S CLOSE
H O LY R O O D
C O W G A T E
E T
HMON D ST
QU
E E N’ S
D R I VE
C A N O N G A T E
C A LT O N R O A D
T HE M
A L L
R O A D
PL
EA
SA
NC
E
A B B E YM
OU
NT
AB
BE Y
HI L
L
H I L L S I D E C R E S C E N T
M O N T G O M E R Y S T
DALKE ITHRD
S TL E O
NA
R D' S
S T RE E T
CROFT-AN
-RIGH
A B B E Y
S T R A N D
HORSE W
YND
EA
ST
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RO
AD
R O S S I E P L A C E
R E G E N T R O A D
MONTROSE TERR
L O N D O N R O A DD PL
CL
ER
K
ST
RE
ET
HolyroodPark
RegentGardens
Royal Terrace Gardens
CaltonHil l
SailsburyCraig
NationalMonument
Nelson’sMonument
BurnsMonument
People’s StoryMuseum
DynamicEarth
HuntlyHouseMuseum
Site ofScottish
ParliamentBuilding
HolyroodPalace
la)
Arthur's Seat(800m)ng Royal M
ile
Top 10 sight
Other sight
Airport
Train station
Coach station
Tourist information
Pedestrian street
Railway line
KEY
200 200100100 0 metresyards
Scotland IndexAberdeen D6Aberfeldy E4Aboyne D5Achiltibuie C3Achnasheen D3Aird Asaig C2Aird Uig B1Airdrie F4Alexandria F4Alford D5Altnaharra B4Anstruther F5Appin E3Applecross D2Arbroath E6Ardlussa F2Ardrossan G3Arisaig E2Armadale D2Arrochar F3Aviemore D4Ayr G4Ballantrae H3Ballater D5Ballindalloch D5Balmoral D5Banchory D6Banff C6Bannockburn F4Barvas B2Berwick-upon-Tweed F6Biggar G5Blair Atholl E4Blairgowrie E5Bonnyrigg F5Borreraig D2Bowmore F2Brae A1Braemar D5Brechin E6Broadford D2Brodick G3Buckie C5Cairnryan H3Callander F4Callanish B2Campbeltown G3Canonbie H5Carbost D2Carlisle H5Carloway B2Carnoustie E5Castle Douglas H4Clova E5Clydebank F4Cockburnspath F6Copister A2Corran E3Craigellachie D5Craignure E3Crail F6Crarae F3Creagorry D1Crianlarich E4Crieff F4Crinan F3Crovie C6Culrain C4Culross F5Cumbernauld F4Cumnock G4Cupar F5Dalwhinnie E4Dervaig E2Dingwall D4Dornoch C4Drummore H3Drumnadrochit D4Drymen F4Dufftown D5Duirinish D3
Dumbarton F4Dunbar F6Dunblane F4Dundee E5Dunfermline F5Dunfries H5Dunkeld E5Dunmore F3Dunoon F3Duns F6Dunvegan D2Durness B4East Kilbride G4Edinburgh F5Elgin C5Elgol D2Ellon D6Eyemouth F6Falkirk F4Fionnphort F2Forfar E5Forres C5Fort Augustus D4Fort William F3Foyers D4Fraserburgh C6Fyvie D6Gairloch C3Galashiels G5Gardenstown C6Garve C4Gatehouse of Fleet H4Girvan G3Glamis E5Glasgow F4Glencoe E3Gleneagles F4Glenrothes F5
Glenshee E5Grantown-on-Spey D5Greenlaw G6Gretna Green H5Haddington F5Hamilton G4Hawick G5Helmsdale C5Hillswick A1Huntly D5Inveraray F3Invergarry D3Inverie D3Inverness D4Inverurie D6Irvine G4Jedburgh G6John o'Groats B5Johnstone F4Keith D5Kelso G6Kenmore E4Kilbride D1Kilchoan E2Killin E4Kilmarnock G4Kilmartin F3Kilmelford F3Kingussie D4Kinloch D2Kinlochbervie B3Kinlochleven E3Kinross F5Kirkcaldy F5Kirkcudbright H4Kirkoswald G3Kirkwall A5Kirriemuir E5
u
u
£
£
£
n
u
KEY
Top 10 sight
Other sight
Train station
Tourist information
Underground station
Pedestrian street
S A U C H I E H A L L S T R E E
BUC
HAN
AN
R E N F R EW STR E ET
GA
RNET
ST
DA
LHO
US I
E
STBL
YTH
SWO
OD
ST
ROSE
ST
REET
CA
MBR
IDG
E ST
STEWART ST
HO
LLA
ND
ST
REET
WE ST R EG E NT ST
DO
UG
LAS
STR
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WES
T
C
AM
PBEL
L
S
TREE
T
WE STG EORG E ST
WEL
LIN
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N
ST
ROB
ERTS
ON
ST
R E N F R EW STR E ET
MA
ITLAN
D ST
MCP HATESTR E ET
POR
M I LTON
GOR DON ST
C ADOGAN ST
HOLM ST
IND
IAST
REE
T
WE ST G R AHAM STR E ET
NEW CITY RD
H I LLSTR EET
BOTHWE LL STR E ET
S T R E E T
BUCCLEUC H
ELM
BAN
KST
B A T H S T R E E T
HO
PE
ST
RE
ET
WE S
T N
I LE
RE
NF
I EL
D
ST
W A T E R L O O S T R E E T
S T V I N C E N T S T R E E T
PI T
T
ST
RE
ET
A R G Y L E S T MIT
CH
ELL
ST
UN
ION
STREET
JAM
ACIA
ST
ARGYLE
B A T H
SCO
TT
ST
SAUCH I E HALL ST
ST
C O W C A D D E N S
OSW
ALD
ST
D O B
BLYTHSWOODSQUARE
M
GlasgowSchool of Art
McLellan Galleries(Kelvingrove Art Collection)
TenementHouse
WillowTea Room
Crans tonHi l l
Ga rne th i l l
Cowcadd
CharingCrossStation
CentralStation
Cowcaddens
St Enoch
Central Glasgow
Knockrome F2Kyle of Lochalsh D3Kylerhea D3Kylesku B3Laggan D4Lairg C4Langholm G5Largs F3Ledaig E3Lerwick B2Livingston F5Lochailort E3Lochaline E3Lochawe E3Lochboisdale D1Lochcarron D3Lochearnhead E4Lochgilphead F3Lochinver C3Lochmaddy C1Lochranza G3Lossiemouth C5Luss F4Lybster B5Macduff C6Mallaig D2Mauchline G4Melby A1Melrose G5Melvich B4Moffat G5Montrose E6Motherwell F4Nairn D4New Lanark G4Newton Stewart H4Newtonmore D4North Berwick F5
North Kessock D4Oban E3Onich E3Orbost D2Paisley F4Peebles G5Penicuik F5Perth E5Peterhead D6Pitlochry E4Plockton D3Poolewe C3Port Askaig F2Port Ellen G2Port of Ness B2Portavadie F3Portnahaven G2Portpatrick H3Portree D2Portsoy C5Prestwick G4Red Point C3Rodel C1Rothesay F3Sanquhar G4Scalloway B1Scarnish E1Scone E5Sconser D2Scourie B3Scrabster B5Seisiadar B2Selkirk G5Shieldaig D3Skeabost D2Sligachan D2Spean Bridge E3Speybridge D5
St Abbs F6St Andrews F5St Cyrus E6St Monans F5Staffin C2Stenness A1Stirling F4Stonehaven E6Stornoway B2Stow G5Stranraer H3Strathpeffer D4Stromness A5Strontian E3Tain C4Tarbert (Jura) F2Tarbert (Lewis) C2Tarbet E3Taynuilt E3Teviothead G5Thurso B5Tobermory E2Tomintoul D5Torridon D3Tounge B4Troon G4Tummel Bridge E4Turnberry G3Turriff D6Tweedsmuir G5Tyndrum E4Uig D2Ullapool C3Weisdale B1Wemyss Bay F3Wick B5Wigtown H4
n
£
u
£
£
@
££
BotanicGardens
Hunterian Art Gallery
Museum ofTransport
AnderstonQuay
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400 4000 metresyards
02 2miles km
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