Embroidery Machine & It’s Types

SUBMITTED TO:- SUBMITTED BY:- Mr. Ankur Makhija Payal Asst. Professor PrateekFashion Tech. Dept. Meenakshi

Chandradhar

What is Embroidery?• Embroidery is the handicraft of

decorating fabric or other materials with needle and thread.

• Experts believe that this craft made on cloth lasts long and makes the fabric look attractive .

Types Of Embroidery

• Embroidery is categorized by technique, era or needlework appearance.

TechniquesCrazy Work• This type of

Embroidery follows the stitching lines of the fabric which branch off in different directions.

Cut Work• Cut work is the

technique of cutting small areas of fabric and embroidering around them.

• It consists of buttonhole stitching with back stitching.

Thread defined Embroidery Types

• The thread used in Embroidery defines its type.

• Artists use fibers ranging from silk to wool in their projects.

Silk Embroidery• When you want to

produce a smooth, shiny texture use silk embroidery.

• Using silk ribbon embroidery gives a unique look.

Wool Embroidery• Embroidery which

are rooted in folk art traditions are often done in wool threads.

• Wool threads are used in Jacobean or crewel embroidery.

Cotton Embroidery

• Artisans produce embroidery with cotton embroidery floss, including white work, black work, counted cross stitch.

Medium Defined Embroidery

• Huckaback is a fabric with a raised weave that accommodates delicate, geometric stitches.

Jacobean Embroidery

• One of the forms of Jacobean Embroidery was Crewel Work.

• It is a form of surface embroidery worked with wool.

Stitch Defined Embroidery Types

•Stitches play an important role in the way an embroidery might look.•Embroidery is therefore classified according to the stitches used in it.•Artists may make use of various stitches according to the desired outlook and the fabric being used.

• Machine embroidery uses several basic stitch types that can be varied and manipulated to produce a wide variety of effects.

• A design must contain more then one stitch for design execution.

• Types of Embroidery stitchSteil stitchesBlatt stitchesRunning stitchesChain stitchesChenille stitchesLooping stitches

Steil stitches These are small, closely aligned stitches that follow a tight back-and-forth pattern.They are used for edges and reinforcement for scallops, finishing edges of eyelet embroidery, and so on.

Blatt stitches These are wider with the same back-and-forth configuration and less tension.Often called satin stitches . They create dramatic textured effect when used in different directions.Blatt stitches requires more stitches per inch unless an underlay is used to prevent gapping.

Running stitches This form a design with one thickness of thread.They can be placed in any direction and may or may not be covered by other stitching.Running stitches are often used for shading and connecting parts of a design . Changing stitch direction changes the way light reflects off the thread and creates an interesting effect.Many combination of these are used by the digitizer in creating the embroidered design.

Chain stitch This forms loops on the surface of the fabric from a single thread source.

Chenille stitches • These are also known as Moss stitch.• It is formed by the chain-stitch machine with a drop

stitch or loop formation on the face of the pieces goods.

• Moss stitch are used to fill and provide the three-dimensional appearance to the design.

• They are usually with heavier wool or acrylic yarn and are commonly used on award letters.

Looping stitches • This stitch attach to the fabric surface by

monofilament thread instead of being pulled through the fabric.

• Looping stitches are used to add three-dimensional look to design.

• These stitches require much heavier yarn than other embroidery stitches.

Variations of Embroidery

Embroidery is classified into several variations depending on production methods and materials used. Common varieties are: 

• Allovers• Guipires• Chemical• Automatic Color Change• Embroidery on Net

Embroidery AlloverThe stitching is performed on the

fabric. The fabric remains on the final product .It’s a continuous pattern which covers the whole width and

length of the goods being embroidered from selvage to selvage,

with a similar design.

Guipires EmbroideryGuipure, also known as Chemical Embroidery.The process involves

running a design on a fabric, which is removed after the fabric is

unspanned so that nothing but the stitch is left.

Embroidery on netThe water-soluble fabric is lapped

over the net, on which the stitching is performed. Later the water-soluble

fabric is dissolved allowing the embroidered stitching and the net to

remain.

Color-change EmbroideryMulti-color embroidery

produced by a special type of machine called Color Change �Machine, which enables the �

needles for different colors to work in turn.

Embroidery Machines , Parts and Their Functions

Types Of Embroidery Machine

• Free-motion machine embroidery• Computerized machine embroidery– Single head Embroidery Machine–Multi head Embroidery Machine– Schiffli Embroidery Machine

Front View

Operation Panel

Free-motion machine embroidery

• In free-motion machine embroidery, embroidered designs are created by using a basic zigzag sewing machine.

• As it is used primarily for tailoring, this type of machine lacks the automated features of a specialized machine.

• To create free-motion machine embroidery, the embroiderer runs the machine and skillfully moves tightly hooped fabric under the needle to create a design.

• The operator lowers or covers the "feed dogs" or machine teeth and moves the fabric manually.

• The operator develops the embroidery manually, using the machine's settings for running stitch and fancier built-in stitches.

• In this way, the stitches form an image onto a piece of fabric. An embroiderer can produce a filled-in effect by sewing many parallel rows of straight stitching. A machine's zigzag stitch can create thicker lines within a design or be used to create a border.

• Many quilters and fabric artists use a process called thread drawing (or thread painting) to create embellishments on their projects or to create textile art.

Computerized machine embroidery

• Most modern embroidery machines are computer controlled and specifically engineered for embroidery.

• Industrial and commercial embroidery machines and combination sewing-embroidery machines have a hooping or framing system that holds the framed area of fabric taut under the sewing needle and moves it automatically to create a design from a pre-programmed digital embroidery pattern.

• Depending on its capabilities, the machine will require varying degrees of user input to read and sew embroidery designs.

SINGLE HEAD EMBROIDERY MACHINE

• Single-head Embroidery machine are similar to basic lockstitch sewing machines.

• They are developed for producing small orders and are used for customizing garments.

• Single –head machine are most often used for custom work and monogramming.

• They may be manually operated or computer controlled.

• Manually operated machine depend on skilled operators to position and manipulate material under the needle.

• Computerized Embroidery machines are designed to stitch the selected design and all the operator must do is place the garment.

SINGLE HEAD EMBROIDERY MACHINE

• Technology has expanded the use of single head Embroidery machine.

• A computer network can interface and control multiple single-head machines so that each machine can run completely different embroidery program at the same time.

• This allows manufacturer to customize their services and produce very small order as needed by their customer .

• For example, to stitch a small order of three on a large multihead machine wastes capacity that could better be used for large orders.

Advantages• The largest market for single-head machines is short-run

corporate identity (golf and polo shirts, caps and other corporate clothing). 

• Some mid-size uniform customers, such as hospitals and restaurant chains, try to add their own embroidery equipment in-house.  For the most part, the store whose primary customers are individuals and groups, customization requests are often farmed out.

• By adding tools such as the SWF-1501C Compact Automatic Embroidery Machine, or the Advance 1501C Professional Machine at a better price and warranty, you can have the freedom to provide individual units for samples, even small production runs.

• Mixing digital direct-to-garment printing (DTG) with embroidery, spangles and rhinestones is a fast growing fashion trend.  A variety of different decoration styles can set your shop apart from the crowd.

• Another advantage is price, Startup costs are significantly lower with the single-head over multi-headed machines, making it an affordable way to expand your product line.

Disadvantage• Space is also an issue. A compact

needle machine accommodates up to 100 designs and has a top speed of 1,200 stitches per minute but takes up only 2.5’x2.5′ of space.

• It is not suitable for large orders and evergreen classic designs.

MULTI HEAD EMBROIDERY MACHINE

• Multi-head embroidery machine is similar to single-head embroidery machine except they contain two or more heads that stitch the same pattern simultaneously.

• Smaller areas are best Embroidered with more close-set heads ,larger patterns require wider needle range and fewer heads.

• Border machine provides the more flexibility , because close-sets hand can be space closed together and alternate heads can be coupled to allow stitching of a wider pattern.

• With multi-head machines, garments are individually hoped and inserted horizontally under each head.

• Each head utilizes 1 to 6 needles and up to 6 colors in stitching a design.

• Machine are purchase with specific number of heads.

• The optimal number of heads is generally dependant on the firm’s average order size, average number of stitches per design, and size of the area to be stitched.

• Higher stitch count are more efficiently produced on machines with more heads.

• Loading time , which entails inserting the fabric or garment component under the machine head, should be less then stitching time if the operation is to be productive.

• More heads requires more loading time ,and for design with a lower stitch count , there is more ideal time during the loading process.

Advantages• If you find that your order is for larger designs that

take longer time to sew, a larger system will be better.

• An extended run time is balanced out by the increased setup time, so more heads will be better.

• A two-head machine could be a perfect fit for your business.

• You can save time on elaborate embroidery involving high stitch counts by putting them on an Advancé 4 Head Professional Embroidery Machine  as opposed to a single-head machine, or possibly even a 6 head machine.

Disadvantages• It is not suitable for small orders due

to high productivity compare to the single head machine.

• Machine is very expensive so not recommended for a small scale company having less orders.

Schiffli Embroidery

• Schiffli Embroidery machine are large , loomlike machines used to stitch designs on length of piece goods.

• They are used to embroider piece goods ,produce emblems , and make novelty and venise lace trims.

• Most machine operates with two frames that hold two fabric length of 10,15 and 21 yards that span the frames which are mounted vertically , have controlled vertical and horizontal movement directed by punched tape or a computer disk.

• Action of some types of schiffli machines are controlled by an automat , which is a system of rods ,cams ,and levers used to read punched tapes and direct Embroidery frames in forming a design.

• Needle are mounted on two horizontal fixed tracks that span the length of the frames.

• Needle bar moves needle horizontally in and out of piece in goods in synchronization with frame movement.

• Needles are pushed into frame piece goods and retracted for stitch formation.

• A stitched Pattern evolves from frame movement.• Borers, which puncture fabric and push aside

yarns prior to stiching are mounted directly below the needle bars to make eyelet fabrics and trims.

• Schiffli Embroidered fabric may experience a reduction in yardage because of the heavy concentration of stitches.

• Because of complexity, size and cost of schiffli equipment and the specialized training and expertise required to operate it, most apparel firm use contractor that specialise in schiffli work.

• Fabrics can be sent to contractors to embroider, or Embroider trims can be special ordered.

Some Embroidery Machine Manufacturers

Barudan - Japan Brother - Japan ButterFly - China Happy - Japan Melco - USA SWF - Korea Tajima - Japan Toyota - Japan ZSK - Germany

Needle• The DB x K5 needle system has established itself

worldwide in machine embroidery.• The eye of the needle in the DB x K5 system is 1–

2 needle sizes larger than usual.• A size 70 needle therefore has the eye of a size

80 or 90 needle. • The benefits are: – a smaller diameter needle may be selected; it

protects the material – better protection for the embroidery thread as

there is more room in the eye – needle is easier to thread

• The needle size indicates the diameter of the part of the needle that penetrates the material, given in mm/100.

• A size 70 needle therefore has a diameter of 0.7 mm– needle sizes of between 55 and about 120 may be used on

conventional embroidery machines.• The needle point is selected according to the embroidery

application. The small ball point may be used as a starting point • Real cutting points (SD or DH needle points) are avoided during

machine embroidery to prevent perforation of the material • The following table gives a guide for selecting points and sizes.

Exceptions are possible.

Backing• Backing has the job of enabling sharp-contoured

embroidery free from deformation due to pulling • It gives the embroidery base the necessary

dimensional stability in conjunction with the underlay stitching

• It may be removed after the embroidery process by tearing, cutting away or dissolving

• For materials with a nap, the backing can be supported by a soluble film on the top of the embroidered item. The stitches are prevented from sinking into the nap by a water- or heat-soluble backing or a suitable film

Types of Backing

Material BackingFine knitwear, very fine woven fabrics

Cut away backing, in order to avoid material damages while tearing away the backing

Woven fabric, stable knitwear

Tear away backing

Transparent materials, embroideries which are visible as well from the reverse side

Water- or heat soluble backing for the purpose of complete removal

Terry cloth, velvet, velours

Tear or cut away backing + water-soluble film on the top

The following table is given as a guide for the application of different types of backing.

Common Reasons for Sewing & Embroidery Machines to Malfunction

• Needle Breaks• Loops on top or bottom of fabric during sewing• Upper thread breaks• Lower thread breaks• Skips stitches• Machine runs slow and/or noisy• Material tends to Pucker during Sewing

Embroidering• Design Out Of Register• Needle Cuts or Holes in Garments

References• http://www.allbrands.com/info/

common-reasons-for-sewing-machine-malfunctions

Thank you