Victoria, British Columbia …and high tea at the Empress Hotel

by Russ Davis

A large oak bar stands in the middle of the Bengal Lounge, which is located on the lower level of the Empress Hotel. The room has wood paneled walls and is well furnished with tables and rich leather chairs. Several large windows open for the afternoon breeze that drifts in from the harbor. The Colonial style décor is reminiscent of the British Raj and the reign of Victoria, Queen of Britain, Empress of India – and in whose memory the hotel was named. Built in 1908 the Empress has been designated a Canadian National Historic Site. Throughout its history, The Empress has played host to kings, queens, movie stars and many famous people. Rudyard Kipling was a frequent guest at the hotel. In 1919, Edward, Prince of Wales, waltzed into the dawn in the Crystal Ballroom. In 1939, King George VI and Queen Elizabeth stayed at The Empress as part of their cross Canada Royal Tour. It was the first time in history that reigning monarchs had visited Victoria. The most recent Royal Visit of HRH Queen Elizabeth and her husband Prince Phillip in 2002. Prince Charles and Camilla visited in 2009, and the Emperor and Empress of Japan visited in 2010. 

The historic hotel is one of the major attractions and the hub of this delightful city of manicured lawns and beautiful gardens. Surrounded by the natural beauty of the Pacific Northwest, Victoria lies at the tip of Vancouver Island cradled between the Juan de Fuca Straits on the west and the distant peaks of the Olympic Mountains on the east. It was founded in 1843 as a Hudson Bay trading post and is now the largest city on the island and the capital of British Columbia. Originally named Fort Victoria, it still retains a distinctive colonial atmosphere. Tudor style architecture is prevalent and many of its residents speak with a slight British accent. Victoria is accessible from either Seattle or Vancouver by commuter plan or ferry-boat. The ferry takes about four hours and accommodates cars and RV’s. During peak summer session RV’s usually have to sit in line all night to secure a boarding spot. Another option is the Victoria Clipper, a high speed catamaran that holds up to 300 passengers and makes the 70-mile crossing in approximately two and a half hours.

Most of the major points of interest are in close proximity to the downtown area and can be walked at leisure. The Empress Hotel is of course the most popular site, with visitors from all around the world coming to see this historic building. The lobby and lower level

Beautiful Streets Olympic Mountains BC Ferry

are especially interesting with polished hardwood floors covered with exquisite Oriental rugs and runners and the walls with tapestries and drapes. High tea is served in the main lobby of the Palm Court, which indecently looks similar to the famous Palm Court in New York’s Plaza Hotel that was built at about the same time. High tea is served in the late afternoon with the traditional finger sandwiches, scones with heavy cream, tea and crumpets. It’s very enjoyable but a bit expensive at $60 for adults and $30 for children.

The Royal British Columbia Museum is just down the street and even if you’re not overly fond of museums, be sure to see this one. The lighting, staging and recreated settings of early-day life in the Northwest is so authentic that you will find yourself going through its fascinating corridors again and again.

And no visit to Victoria is complete without spending at least a half a day at Butchart Gardens, a 50- acre horticultural showcase located 13 miles north of the downtown district. It is considered one of the most beautiful gardens in the world. Late afternoon and evenings are recommended during the summer months as the garden is illuminated by thousands of hidden lights. On weekends there are stage shows and fireworks.

Butchart Gardens

Victoria has a large number of very nice hotels to choose from. The Empress is the most elegant with rates from $275 per night. The Royal Scott is just around the corner with rates in the $120 range. The Oswego Hotel is also nearby and only two blocks from the museum and starts at $150.

Dining in Victoria

Some of the best dining in Victoria can be found in the Inner Harbor area where there are dozens of quaint little sidewalk cafes, restaurants and sandwich shops offering every type of food and drink that you could possibly wish for. You might try the fish and chips and a glass of ale at Spinnakers Brepub.

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