wind chimes - central florida rose society (cfrs) · 2018. 6. 27. · july / august 2018 the wind...

July / August 2018 Volume 33, Number 6

“Society News” from your President

Wind ChimesA Publica�on of the Central Florida Rose Society

Affiliate Member of the American Rose Society - A Non-Profit Organiza�on

Next CFRS Mee�ng

Thursday September 6, 2018

Rose Gra�ing, Rose Mosaic Virus, Old Garden Roses for Florida, and More!!

Presented by:Dr. Malcolm Manners

Florida Southern University

7 to 9 pm, In The Orchid Room at Leu Gardens

See Page 2 for Details

Wind ChimesHybrid Musk Rose

Jim Small

Summer has now officially arrived. The heat has been so oppressive since the first of May that I have already curtailed my outside ac�vi�es. Many of you will be going on vaca�on, hopefully to somewhere cooler than here. As most of us try to avoid being outside in the garden this �me of year, the Central Florida Rose Society takes a break from regular mee�ngs. We will resume our regular monthly mee�ngs on September 6th. This issue of the Wind Chimes covers the months of July and August. The next Wind Chimes will be published a week before the September mee�ng! Look for a reminder email to arrive in your inbox around that �me regarding the September mee�ng and newsle�er.

If over our summer break you have any ques�ons or concerns regarding your roses please feel free to contact one of our Con-sul�ng Rosarians listed on the back page of this newsle�er. They are always here to help you!

Our recent June 7th mee�ng featured fine art photographer Julie Lee as our guest speaker, and was well received and a�ended. She shared some of her techniques for ge�ng that perfect rose photo and displayed some of her fine work. Lots of ques�ons were asked by the audience. Her program encouraged me to take more care in my own rose photography and to think seriously about adding a photography class to our next rose show.

You may remember that I recently announced that the next CFRS rose show will be held on April 20, 2019, at Harry P. Leu Gardens. Save the date! Society volunteers will be needed to organize and execute this community outreach project!

Our members picked up their H.L. Shealy rose growing supplies at the June mee�ng. Thanks are due to Catherine Anderson for once again organizing this annual CFRS group order.

The summer months will be taxing for both you and your roses. Take care to drink lots of water and do your gardening chores early or late in the day. Deadhead spent blooms and cut roses on short stems to leave as much foliage on the plant as possible. Check your roses for diseases and insects. Chilli thrips could pose a big problem over the long hot summer.

Stay safe and healthy over the summer. I will see you again in September.

July / August 2018 The Wind Chimes, A publication of the Central Florida Rose Society Page 2

Everything’s coming up Roses …

Here’s a preview of what’s happening in the Fall …

We have some exci�ng news to share with you! At our September 6th mee�ng we will welcome interna�onally noted rosarian, Dr. Malcolm Manners. His presenta�on will focus on rose gra�ing methods, rose mosaic virus, and Old Garden Roses!!

Dr. Manners earned his B.A. in chemistry and biology from Anderson College. From there he a�ended the University of Florida and earned his Master’s Degree and PhD in hor�cultural science, specializing in flowering physiology of tropical fruits. Dr. Manners is the Chairman of the Hor�cultural Science Department at Florida Southern College in Lakeland where he has been growing roses for over 30 years. The Florida Southern gardens boast over 350 plants from 250 varie�es, with another 100 varie�es housed in the college greenhouses. The campus is considered one of the largest, most diverse collec�ons of roses in the southeastern United States. Since 1981 Dr. Manners has been teaching citrus and hor�cultural science at Florida Southern, specializing in fruit produc�on, roses and plant propaga�on.

Malcolm is also a recognized researcher on rose mosaic virus and founded a program which involved a heat process which cures infected rose varie�es of rose mosaic. Eventually this led to his specializa�on in an�que or “heritage” rose varie�es. He is well known for promo�ng old garden roses and educa�ng gardeners on their use in the home garden. He serves as trustee of the Heritage Rose Founda�on and has served on numerous American Rose Society commi�ees. He is ac�ve in the Central Florida Heritage Rose Society, which he co-founded. In 2013 Dr. Manners was named "Great Rosarian of the World" for his many years of extensive and renowned work with roses and as an educator in the field of rose culture.

We are also very fortunate that our fall program agenda will feature Robert Bowden, the Director of Leu Gardens, as our guest speaker at the October or November mee�ng. He will bring us up to date on exci�ng plans for Leu’s Rose Garden, as well as share with us addi�onal rose topics. Robert is a graduate of Florida A&M University with a BS in Ornamental Hor�culture. He subsequently received his Master’s in Public Administra�on from the University of Michigan. He served as Director of a number of Botanical Gardens, including Atlanta’s Botanical Garden, just prior to taking over the helm at Harry P. Leu Gardens over 24 years ago. Robert is an adjunct professor of hor�culture at Valencia College and the author of several gardening books. His passion for plants is contagious! Possessing a wealth of hor�culture knowledge he’s a great teacher, and loves sharing not only his exper�se, but also many anecdotes and gardening �ps. You are sure to enjoy his visit!

Look for addi�onal informa�on in the September Wind Chimes regarding upcoming mee�ng programs and CFRS ac�vi�es.

The Prince Elina Lyda Rose Baronne Prevost

With the Friendship of Flowers, Martha


CFRS Member Spotlight:CFRS Member Spotlight:CFRS Member Spotlight:

Barbara Rhoads

Continued on page 4

St. Patrick, Drawn By Barbara Rhoads

Our love affair with roses literally was born over a garden plan. This locally-designed plan was spread out over our dining room table and I was hesitantly trying to envision what all of these exo�c sounding plants would actually look like when our then-neighbor, Martha Burn Seneff, stopped us in our tracks. “Oh, but you MUST have roses!” she exclaimed. We wanted fragrance in our li�le pa�o garden, but roses, we were always told, were a lot of work. (And they are.) Both Dave and I had some unhappy childhood experiences with very prickly rambler roses, so we frowned at each other over this new idea, but fate had another path in store for us.

The next thing we knew, we were at Lukas Nursery with our arms wrapped around the last Pope John Paul II available, a variety that both Martha and the nursery gardener assured us we would love. It went home with us and s�ll has the place of honor in the garden and in our hearts, filling both with its rich, evoca�ve scent.

Li�le did we know that since that day we would scheme and plan and fret over just how many roses were too many for our li�le space. Some of our roses were acquired at the annual Leu Garden plant sale and some were won at the Rose Society raffles (thanks, Ron). A glorious Jude the Obscure was gi�ed to us. An Abraham Darby was a lovely find. But each rose had to pass Dave’s ul�mate and inarguable test: It had to smell wonderful. “If we are going to all of this trouble, it absolutely must smell nice.”

Calling All Members! "Rosy" Rewards offered for your input!!

We are in the process of planning future CFRS meeting programs … And we would love your input! Please share with us what aspects of rose growing would be most helpful for you. Are there certain areas that you feel need more attention? Particular subjects you would like covered? Would you like to learn more about planting, spraying, pruning, exhibiting roses, irrigation, fertilizing, pests .. or More? We are open to all suggestions! It is our desire to plan programs and speakers that appeal to our members’ interests and which help you grow beautiful roses!!

To thank you for your input, all members who offer suggestions on program topics will be entered into a drawing for a Fortuniana grafted Hybrid Tea, Floribunda, or Shrub Rose bush from K&M Rose Nursery, or a Mini or Mini-flora rose bush from For The Love Of Roses Nursery. The 'Winning Member' will be drawn at our September 6th meeting. A new rose bush awaits!

Please email your suggestions for upcoming programs to [email protected]. Looking forward to hearing from you, and thank you for helping us provide programs tailored to your needs!!

mailto:[email protected]


We found that we were certainly naive about the care and wonder of rose gardening; we had a lot to learn. Martha coached Dave into her rou�ne of specialty spraying and pruning. I learned how to properly cut roses and how to do the almost daily rou�ne of spo�ed leaf removal, general weeding, and clean up. Dave now babies them with coffee grounds, so, at this �me, we have nine pampered treasures in our li�le townhouse enclosure. No one rejoices more than us when a new bloom comes into color. They are an inspira�on to the ar�st in me, and I love to draw and paint them.

For the curious, here are our current rose varie�es: Abraham Darby, The McCartney Rose, Jude The Obscure, Mr. Lincoln, Radiant Perfume, Beverly, Kentucky Derby, St. Patrick, and Pope John Paul II.

Joanna Gaines, in a recent ar�cle about her roses in Magnolia Journal, said that each of her roses represents a special person in her life. So when she spends �me caring for that rose, she also spends �me thinking about that person and praying for them. Perhaps that is not such a bad trade off for all of the �me spent clipping and pruning and spraying and weeding in the garden. When the glorious scents recall to us someone special, is not all that labor truly well spent?

ON A PERSONAL NOTE:

Barbara and Dave came to rose gardening and the Rose Society in 2016 from vastly different hor�cultural back-grounds.

A self confessed city girl, Barbara grew up in a military family and has been known to ask her husband on more than one occasion, “Is this a weed?” (Ahem.) Dave grew up spending summers on his grandfather’s Pennsylvania farm and helped tend his parents’ huge garden in Maryland. Both have family �es in Maryland and Florida.

Dave is a re�red Logis�cs and Management Analyst at NIH (Na�onal Ins�tutes of Health) in Bethesda, Maryland. Barbara is a re�red Senior Graphic Designer for Bechtel Company, Frederick, Maryland.

They love to travel and thoroughly enjoy their families and their roses. Both enjoy the Rose Society’s warm and friendly atmosphere, and the depth of knowledge of its members. The enthusiasm and passion of the Society and its hospitality make learning about roses and their care a pleasure. And … winning a raffle rose is an extra bonus! Thank you Central Florida Rose Society for all your help!

Member Spotlight, continued from page 3

Radiant Perfume

The McCartney Rose

Pope John Paul II


“Always involve emo�on; photographing roses is all about capturing how the flower makes you feel”. It is with this sen�ment that Professional photographer Julie Lee opened her informa�ve presenta�on at the CFRS June mee�ng.

“Far too o�en, people try to capture the essence of their blooms, only to go home and upload a photo that looks disappoin�ngly dull or lackluster”. Lee con�nued, “Today I’m going to teach you how to photograph your roses and capture the beauty of all their intricate details in full”.

Julie began by sharing the key tools she keeps handy during her photoshoots. The basics included tweezers, nail scissors, and a paintbrush for grooming and cleaning her choice bloom. These tools can be used to remove bugs, trim off wil�ng leaves, or brush pollen of the petals. She also revealed her favorite shoo�ng accessory shown on the

right, the Plamp by Wimberley. The Plamp, as the name suggests, is a plant clamp. It can be used to gather distant buds and blooms together for a close-up photo, or to hold undesirable branches out of the frame while taking the picture.

The other suggested accessories included a tripod to hold the camera steady and light diffusers. Light diffusers come in many different sizes and are made of a white translucent material. Their purpose is to cut down harsh light on the subject you are photographing. They allow enough light through them to produce a clear and colorful photo while removing the glare of the harsh midday sun or indoor ligh�ng. Julie also uses and recommends reflectors. A solid white reflector is used to bounce so� light back onto a subject, while a silver reflector is used to bounce hard light onto the subject. For instance, a floral arrangement may be staged with the light coming from above the flowers at an angle. The silver diffuser can then be juxtaposed underneath the arrange-ment at a complementary angle in order to bounce light back up underneath the subject. This allows the details of the en�re arrangement to be illuminated.

Julie spoke of a tool named ColorChecker by X-Rite. The premise is quite simple for those proficient in Photoshop. The ColorChecker is an 8.5" x 11.5" card propor�oned to fill a 35mm frame with 24 different colored squares. Many of these squares represent natural colors such as human skin, foliage, and blue sky, and are used for calibra�ng and evalua�ng color. Photoshop has a compa�ble plug-in for X-Rite so that the colors can be adjusted to ensure the photo or print matches the actual pigments captured in the rose.

Julie also suggested crea�ve apps such as Snapseed, Image Blender, and DistressedFX for smart phone users to be able to begin to play with edi�ng features such as filters and double exposure.

A�er equipping CFRS members with the knowledge of the tools needed, Julie began to elaborate upon the two styles of floral photography. The first style covered was Documentary, an example this style is shown at the top of this page on the le�. Documentary photography is the style most typically used for rose photography compe��ons. The objec�ve is this style is to capture the fullness of the rose in a prac�cal sense. The size, shape, color, texture, and personality should

A Recap of the June Meeting Program …

Photographing Roses:Capturing Remarkable Images

Continued on page 6


all be displayed. The background of documentary photos is usually solid black or white in order to keep a�en�on on the subject bloom alone. This being said, there is s�ll room to play with light through the use of diffusers, flashlights, and whatever light source may be accessible.

Light pain�ng was a tac�c Julie shared that can be used to illuminate an otherwise dark documentary photo. When photographing a rose with a black background, the light source cannot come from directly in front of the flower. This will cause the black background to become washed out and gray, losing the stark contrast and professional appeal of the portrait. Instead, light will be used to flood the bloom from one side. Unfortunately, this angle can cause harsh shadows and en�re parts of the plant may become indis�nguishable. While a diffuser could be used to solve this issue, Julie introduced the light pain�ng method, and it truly harbors whimsical results. In order to succeed at light pain�ng, the shu�er speed must be slowed down. The photographer then stands adjacent to the rose or arrangement and highlights par�cular leaves or petals with a small flashlight. The flashlight is to be directed from the side in order to avoid illumina�ng the background. The slow shu�er speed allows more �me for the light to be taken in; and the finished result is a so� luminous subject with a stark contras�ng, black background.

The second style discussed was Abstract photography. This style leaves a bit more room for imagina-�on. Abstract photography provides the opportunity to get up close to a rose and highlight certain a�ributes without having to include the en�re bloom. Therefore, petals, insects, and even imperfec�ons can be highlighted and photographed as art. Julie addi�onally encouraged the use of the color wheel especial-

ly in abstract photography. Complementary colors that sit across from each other on the color wheel cause the subject to pop vibrantly against the background. Julie used the example on the right of an orange Indian Blanket flower in her backyard. The flower was stunning on its own but, when Julie aimed her camera to shoot with her cyan swimming pool as the background, the petals became brilliant in warm radiance against the cool blue tones.

Upon the conclusion of her seminar, Julie encouraged photographers and rose-growers alike to tap into their crea�ve side, and to think outside the box when looking to capture beauty. “Don’t just focus on the young buds,” she said as she displayed a photograph of a flower with missing petals. “Appreciate all stages of development.” Her photo on the le�, �tled “Fading Lady”, captures the end of what once was a whole and beau�ful bloom. The hollow le� by the fallen petals expose the delicate inner workings of this fading flower. “Her day was over; but she had a beau�ful windswept look that I just couldn’t resist.”

Julie Lee truly shared the secrets to capturing enchan�ng portraits of roses. She is a wonderful example and testament of the crea�ve imagina�on and intricate

ar�stry behind photography. Yet she reminds aspiring photographers, “Do as much as you can behind the lens of the camera, and not behind the computer screen.” The true magic of photography is not found when the rose is rendered ar�ficially, but when it is captured perfectly in its moment of true beauty.

Photographing Roses, continued from page 5


WATER -- YOUR "KEY" TO SUCCESSBy Marty Pawlikowski, CFRS Master Rosarian

It may not be exci�ng to read about watering your roses … But at this �me of year, it’s about the most important thing you can do – Water. Like all living things, your roses cannot survive without adequate water. With summer’s high temperatures, water is extremely significant for your rose’s survival.

Noted rosarian, Doc Allco�, wrote in the Wind Chimes several years ago that it has been es�mated that three gallons of water are lost through a rose bush in a single day through transpira�on. Transpira�on is the passage of water vapor from the leaves through a membrane or pore. In a rose bush, the pore is the stoma located on the undersides of the leaf. There are hundreds of stomata on the underside of each leaf. When we are outside on a hot summer day we sweat (or should I say perspire) -- And similarly, roses do the same thing through transpira�on. Like us, our roses need a con�nual supply of water to replace the moisture lost through transpira�on. High temperatures and full sun acceler-ate transpira�on, deple�ng moisture rapidly, thus requiring more water.

So how much water does your rose garden need to flourish during the summer? Everyone’s growing condi�ons are different based on variables including soil type and contents, amount of sun received, whether the beds abut paved or turf areas, the quan�ty, type and depth of mulch, type of irriga�on system, etc. These variables result in different watering requirements. Simply put, the amount of water you need to apply to your garden is variable dependent upon your par�cular microclimate and the amount of rainfall you receive. One way of determining how much water your par�cular soil needs is to pull back the mulch, dig down in the soil a li�le, and pick up a handful of soil. Squeeze the soilin your hand. How well has it held the moisture from yesterday’s or even this morning’s watering? The soil should feel evenly moist, and when squeezed in your hand should form a mass that easily crumbles. Use common sense – if the soil shows no signs of holding together, then water more frequently or increase the quan�ty of water applied. Remember, deep thorough watering is preferable to light frequent watering as it encourages strong, deep roots. On the other hand, if when squeezed, the soil forms a soggy mass, decrease the quan�ty and or frequency of watering.

Typically the months of July and August are considered our “rainy season” - But this has not held true during the past few years. It is important to monitor the amount of water your roses receive. As a general rule our roses need be-tween 2 - 3 inches of water per week. In periods of hot, dry temperatures, even more may be needed depending on the size of the bushes, and the variables in your microclimate. Don’t assume that rainfall will furnish all the water your roses need; check the soil to be sure, and set up a rain gauge to monitor rainfall amounts. Typical of Central Florida, it may be raining cats and dogs where you work and be sunny … without a drop of rain … in your garden, and vice a versa. It is important that we conserve this natural resource and using a rain gauge will help us eliminate unnecessary water-ing.

Check the depth of your watering to make sure that the moisture is reaching the root system, which, for established Fortuniana gra�ed roses, is quite large. If water penetra�on of the soil is no more than 8 inches deep, longer or more frequent watering sessions are needed. Remember Fortuniana roots are generally in the top 14 inches of the soil and very far reaching. Shallow watering will encourage shallow rooted plants. Make sure the water is ge�ng down into the en�re root zone. When watering a bed of roses try to water the en�re bed – that’s where Fortuniana roots are located (throughout the whole bed – not only under the drip line of the bush).

Watering is also important to bring oxygen into the soil. As water moves through the soil oxygen follows behind filling the spaces. Rain reportedly places more oxygen in the soil than any other means. Without oxygen in the soil our roses will decline and eventually die. New rose growers are o�en concerned with the saying … "roses do not like wet feet". As a result they underwater, believing that too much water will harm the "feet" (roots) of their roses. It is true that roses do not like to be grown in low lying areas where water tends to "stand". The oxygen needed for healthy growth will not be available in waterlogged areas. If your rose beds have adequate drainage you really do not need to worry about "wet feet". Over watering, or too much rainfall, can, even when adequate drainage is present, temporarily, deplete oxygen in the soil – the soil becomes waterlogged and the oxygen is displaced. Your roses provide the follow-ing watering indicators: too li�le water will cause the leaves to be limp and sagging; too much will starve the rose of oxygen and its leaves will turn yellow and drop off.

Continued on page 14


JULY & AUGUSTIN THE ROSE GARDEN

By Jim Small, CFRS Master Rosarian

I am wri�ng this ar�cle for the months of July and August during the second week of June. I just finished applying my late May-early June organic fer�lizers. I pulled back the mulch and applied two cups each of Milorganite and Purely Organic Mix or Mills Magic Rose Mix around each bush. I ran out of the Mills Magic Rose Mix with about a dozen bushes le� so switched to the Purely Organic that I obtained at our last society mee�ng. The problem now is trying to keep the dogs from ea�ng the Milorganite. I will likely apply some granular fer�lizer soon (1/2 cup per plant) as my roses are rapidly growing and it will take several weeks for the organic fer�lizer to be broken down by the microbes and the nutrients released to the roses. I also intend to spread SPM (Sul-Po-Mag) throughout the garden to supplement the potassium and magnesium levels in the soil. A�er that, I plan to regularly cut blooms for the house, deadhead, and pull weeds for the rest of the summer. It is pre�y hot and humid so I am staying inside or

in the pool for most of the day. I spray every 7-10 days and have pre�y much kept black spot in check. Thrips con�nue to be a problem, so I o�en mist the buds with Bayer Complete Insect Killer in order to have decent blooms for the house. I plan to apply more Organic fer�lizer at the end of August. If I see light foliage, I will apply addi�onal granular fer�lizer.

A�er that week or so of downpours, rain has been spo�y here in Maitland. It may rain well one a�ernoon but the ground dries so quickly in this heat that, by the next day, I see a lot of drooping canes. When I see that I get the hose out and try to cool things down. I just finished plan�ng two of the new roses I recently purchased, Donna’s Grace and Caboose. I will keep you posted on how these new varie�es perform over �me. I haven’t seen good blooms to photograph as yet.

My “Rose of the Month” for July and August is ‘Grande Amore’, a hybrid tea rose bred by Tim Hermann Kordes and introduced in the United States in 2008 by Wayside Gardens. It resulted from a cross of ‘Cristopher Columbus’ and an unnamed seedling. It is one of the Kordes Roses Eleganza collec�on that are known for their disease resistance. Blooms are about 4 inches in diameter and have 25-30 petals. Flowers are a beau�ful shade of red, high centered, and are usually produced on very long stems. There is a mild fragrance. The foliage is dark green and semi-glossy.

I have a single plant of ‘Grand Amore’, gra�ed on fortuniana, which I purchased From K&M Roses in Buckatunna, Mississippi over a year ago. The bush has grown very well and blooms reliably. I really like the bloom color, but have not been all that impressed by the centers of the blooms. On a posi�ve note, ‘Grande Amore’ seems to be very resistant to black spot and

Grande Amore


mildew. It may therefore be a good variety for a no–spray garden. The bush has a spreading growth habit and averages about six feet tall. The basal break, shown in the photo at right, has surprised me however, as it has already surpassed seven feet tall!!

As I received no ques�ons via email over the past month, I will now discuss care of your roses for the summer. Black spot will be the primary fungal pest that you will encounter. How much black spot you encounter will be a func�on of the amount of rain we receive and how long it stays on the plant. To control this pest, spray weekly to biweekly with the mixtures listed in the accompa-nying chart. I recommend that you use a systemic fungicide such as Bayer Advanced Disease Control for Roses, Flowers, & Shrubs, Honor Guard (or other propiconazole product), or Cleary’s 3336 combined with a contact fungicide such as Mancozeb (or Dithane M-45 or Dithane T/O or Pentathlon DF, etc.). Rotate your fungicides, if possible. Use either a pump up or power sprayer to spray your roses. I add Beaty WSP Surfactant (1/8 TSP/gallon) or Indicate 5 (at a rate of about 1 TSP per gallon) to my fungicidal spray as a spreader. The amount of Indicate 5 needed will vary with your water. Add it un�l your spray water has a faint pink color. A homemade surfactant can be made by adding a few drops of dishwashing detergent and about ½ teaspoon of white vinegar per gallon to your spray mix.

Be sure to water your garden well about 12 hours before spraying. I generally try to spray when the temperature is below 80 degrees but that is mainly to avoid the heat and heatstroke. If you don’t already have one, buy a spray suit, respirator, chemical gloves, and rubber boots to protect yourself. Make sure you are well covered while you spray.

Flower thrips will s�ll be abundant over the summer and are likely to do considerable damage. To have decent blooms you are probably going to have to mist the buds and blooms about twice a week star�ng when the buds begin to show color. I commonly use Bayer Complete Insect Killer, Merit, and Conserve SC to control thrips. Conserve SC is an agricultural version of the insec�cide Spinosad but homeowner’s versions (i.e. containing Spinosad but less concentrated) are also available. Individuals with smaller rose gardens may find these homeowner versions make more sense for them than the more expensive agricultural formula�ons. In the long run, however, the agricultural version is more economical. I mist the buds with these insec�cides in the early evening, about twice a week, to obtain rela�vely damage free blooms. Conserve SC can be mixed with your regular fungicidal spray and is very effec�ve. Use of Conserve SC (or other Spinosad insec�cides) in your fungicidal spray is also a good way to deter chilli thrips, the most damaging pest you may encounter over the summer.

An a�ack of Chilli thrips will devastate your garden so be on the lookout for them. Symptoms of chilli thrips include new leaves that are deformed and blackened and buds that are destroyed. These thrips actually like both the young vegeta�on as well as the blooms. Chilli thrips like most roses, even Knockouts, and many other ornamental

Continued on page 10

Jim with ‘Grande Amore’ ...Nothing makes a gardener happier

than a rose growing like Jack's beanstalk!

Chilli Thrips Damage


July & August In The Rose Garden, continued from page 9

plants as well. They may start on one rose but will quickly progress to other bushes. Preven�on seems to be the best approach to their control. Conserve is my first choice as an insec�cide but I believe in rota�ng it with other insec�cides. If you see this kind of damage, you are going to need to spray the whole plant at least weekly and perhaps more o�en. The only downside of the treatment for chilli thrips is that it will encourage an a�ack by spider mites. You will need to be prepared when that happens.

A�er chilli thrips, spider mites will poten�ally cause the most damage over the summer. If le� untreated, spider mites can defoliate, weaken and possibly kill a rose bush. Spider mites reproduce quickly in hot dry weather. For a small garden, I con�nue to recommend use of a water wand to knock them off from the undersides of leaves and to interfere with their reproduc�ve ac�vi�es. Use the wand daily un�l the mites are under control. A�er that, weekly use of the water wand should be sufficient. Many commercial water wands do not produce a forceful enough water stream to remove the mites. If you remove the spray head and replace it with one designed for a hose that has more force, it will work just fine. I have recently seen water wand that lets you adjust the force of the spray. That type might do the job if it produces enough force.

For chemical control of spider mites I like Floramite and Sultan, as both can be tank mixed with your fungicide. Sultan and Floramite are very expensive and should be used sparingly. Con�nued use of a single pes�cide encourages the development of resistance.

Aphids may also show up on occasion. Malathion and Bayer Complete Insect Killer are effec�ve in the control of these pests.

Your roses will need plenty of water over the summer, par�cularly when we have a number of days of dry weather. Try to make sure that they get at least three inches of water a week. Don’t trust the a�ernoon showers to provide enough water. A reader once asked me how much rain I had received over the past week. When I said 1.5 inches, she was quite surprised because she had received over four inches. That is the way it is in Florida; we typically have “widely sca�ered showers” and o�en pass me by as I live in Maitland. It is a good idea to install a rain gauge in the middle of your rose garden to determine how much water the rains provide. Then you can supplement the appropriate amount to make up the three inches I have recommended. Po�ed roses should be watered every day.

You are going to need to provide addi�onal fer�lizer for your roses over the summer as they are going to be growing very fast. There are a number of good commercial fer�lizers for roses on the market. I personally use Grower’s 16-5-10 Nursery & Rose Special (obtained at Grower’s Fer�lizer Corpora�on in Lake Alfred, Florida) but there are others equally good. I recommend that you give your large roses about ¼ to ½ cup of granular every 2-3 weeks. If you want to go totally organic, use 2-4 cups of Milorganite per bush every six weeks.

In addi�on to this regular fer�lizer program, I con�nue to recommend the monthly use of 2-4 tablespoons per bush of sulfate of potash or Sul-Po-Mag (S-P-M). Potassium (contained in potash) leaches quickly from our soils, so it is a good idea to supply an extra amount of this important nutrient.

If your foliage begins to look pale green, lack of available iron may be the problem. To remedy this situa�on, apply chelated iron (Sequestrene 330) to your roses at a rate of 1 tablespoon per gallon, using about a gallon of this mix as a drench around each mature bush.

Be sure to water your bushes well before applying any fer�lizer.

August is the �me to apply organic fer�lizer and other soil amendments to your roses. I usually give each bush 2 cups of Purely Organic Mix (or Mill’s Magic Rose Mix) and 2 cups of Milorganite. Have your soil pH checked and add Dolomi�c lime (to raise the pH) or sulfur (to lower the pH) to achieve a pH of 6.2 - 6.5. I personally rake back the mulch before applying the organics but others just throw it on top and wash it in with a hose. Sca�er the above ingredients evenly over the en�re surface surrounding the bush, from the shank to out past the drip line. Water the plants well a�er applying the organic fer�lizer.


Jim Small’s Recommended Spray Formulations

Problem Treatment Dosage Per Gallon of Water

Black Spot and other fungi

CuPro (Kocide 2000 DF) DO NOT MIX WITH OTHER CHEMICALS

— For your preventa�ve spray program —Choose one of the following SYSTEMIC fungicides:

Bayer Advanced Disease Control for Roses, Flowers, & ShrubsorCleary’s 3336orBanner Maxx or Honor Guard (generic for Banner Maxx)

AND tank mix with one of the following CONTACT fungicides:

Mancozeb, Dithane T/O, Dithane M-45, or Pentathlon DF

1 TSP

1.5 TBSP

1 TSP

1/2 TSP

1 TBSP

Powdery Mildew

Immunox (myclobutanil) orEagle 20 EW orFer�-lome F-Stop

2 TBS1/3 to 2/3 TSP3 TBS

Aphids Malathion (50% EC) orBayer Complete Insect Killer Concentrate or Water wand

2 TSP1 TBSPAs needed

Spider Mites

Water wand orAvid (0.15EC) orFloramiteSultan

Weekly as a preventa�ve1/4 TSP1/4 to 1/2 TSP3/4 TSP

Caterpillars Thuricide 4 TSP

Thrips Bayer Dual Ac�on Rose & Flower Insect Killer orBayer Complete Insect Killer Concentrate or Orthene (9.4% EC) orOrthene (97% WP) orMerit orConserve SC

Ready-To-Use 1 TBSP2 TBSP3/4 TSP1/8 TSP1/3 TSP (may be used with fungicide)

A soil test is also a good idea at this �me of year to make sure your soil has all the needed nutrients. I am currently sending my soil samples to Waters Agricultural Laboratories, Inc. (PO Box 382, Camilla, GA 31730). Give them a call at 229-336-7216 for details. Ask about having a Basic 4 test with nitrate added performed. Be sure to tell them that you are growing roses. Their recommenda�ons will tell you how to correct any problems.

Cut your roses on short stems to maintain as many leaves as possible. Every leaf is important to the plant’s health over the summer. Check to make sure your bushes are well staked to prevent them from being uprooted in strong storms. Con�nue to remove spent blooms and blind or crossing canes. Also, try to keep cool and enjoy your garden despite the heat. Your garden can be maintained in good health over the summer with minimal effort and it will be ready to produce that fall flush of blooms we are all an�cipa�ng. Please send me some ques�ons for the September issue. You have two months to think them up. Just e-mail ques�ons to [email protected] and I will endeavor to give you an answer.


Sharing recent observations from our garden …Compiled by Elaine Pawlikowski, CFRS Master Rosarian

One of the most common diseases of roses, black spot is caused by the fungus Diplocarpon rosae. Black spot appears on the upper sur-face of leaves as brown or black spots 1/16” to ½” in diameter with fringed, radiated margins. Close inspec�on of the spots will show the �ny spore-producing bodies. Leaf �ssue surrounding the black spot turns yellow (yellow “halo”). As the black spot fungus con�nues to mature, the leaves turn yellow and fall off. Leaves of resistant rose varie�es may form only �ny black flecks and may not turn yellow and fall off.

The defolia�on that occurs when black spot is allowed to get out of control weakens the plant. And not just for the current growing season, but for the next season as well. The main func�on of plant foliage is to absorb ener-gy from the sun and perform photosynthesis which produces sugars to feed the plant. If your plant loses all or most of its leaves to black spot it will be unable to collect and store energy. This will result in weaker growth and reduced blooms.

Black spot occurs most frequently during the rainy season when temperatures are moderate. Op�mal tempera-ture for black spot development is around 70 degrees, minimal germina�on is s�ll possible at 32 – 37 degrees and at 86 degrees they germinate but degenerate (the growth is checked, but mycelium is not killed). The conid-ia spores (asexually produced spores) are killed without germina�on at 91 degrees in 36 hours (sounds good, but we never have an uninterrupted 36 hours at 91 degrees, and our roses would probably not be able to tolerate that temperature either). A spore germinates in 9 to 18 hours on a we�ed leaf. A leaf must be con�nuously wet for 6 – 7 hours for the spore to germinate, but if the humidity is 92% or higher, the leaf only needs to be wet for five minutes and the spore is able to germinate. That is why black spot problems accompany frequent a�er-noon showers in midsummer and fall.

According to Kenneth F. Baker (Berkley) and A. W. Dimock (Cornell), professors of plant pathology, in their book “Roses”, (published by Roses Incorporated): “A penetra�on of germina�ng spores throughout the cu�cle of the leaf can happen anywhere within 36 to 96 hours depending on resistance of the variety, virulence of the patho-gen, and clima�c condi�ons. The pathogen (germina�ng spore) may remain suscep�ble to eradica�on for up to 90 hours a�er germina�on (before entering the leaf), by appropriate fungicides”. The use of a combina�on of a CONTACT and a SYSTEMIC fungicide applied at the frequency and dilu�on rate on the label will break the cycle where the disease has spread. Note: See explana�on regarding Contact and Systemic Fungicides at the end of this ar�cle.

To control the spread of black spot you should minimize the condi�ons that are favorable to an infesta�on. When selec�ng roses choose varie�es that are black spot resistant. Plant rose bushes so they have lots of free air movement around them and plenty of sun, preferably morning sun that would quickly dry out wet leaves (caused by rain or heavy early morning dew). Avoid dense plan�ngs, keep the center of the bush free of growth and exposed to the sun and the air which reduces the humidity. Fungi thrive in humid environments. An open center also facilitates the applica�on of spray material.

A look at Black Spot … Central Florida’s frequent summer rains have returned and so has black spot.


Plants with lush and tender growth (well fer�lized with nitrogen) are much more suscep�ble to fungal diseases than leaner plants. Determine if the bush has adequate amounts of potassium, which also contributes to re-sistance against fungal and bacterial diseases. Keep in mind that fungicides will not restore the leaves to the pre-blackspot condi�on, they will only prevent addi�onal infec�on. They can only protect the leaf from a germi-na�ng spore entering into it.

Generally, to control black spot, fungicides must be applied once a week. Here in central Florida we prac�ce that almost year round, as the bushes seldom get a real period of dormancy. The interval could be stretched from 10 days to bi-weekly, depending, of course, on clima�c condi�ons, fungicide used, state of dormancy and presence of disease. However, keep in mind that new spores are produced in 10 to 18 days; this is why weekly spraying will prevent black spot from star�ng in the garden.

Noted rosarian Howard Walters stated: “the name of the game is complete coverage; once over won’t do it.” When spraying for black spot spray from the underside and from the top, so that every leaf, underside and top-side is covered. The leaves should “glisten” a�er spraying. Special a�en�on should be given to the lower leaves, as they are the first to be infected. Black spot tends to spread upwards. Leaves on the bo�om of the rose usual-ly become infected earlier because they are shaded by other parts of the plant and thus stay wet longer.

To summarize, the important measures against black spot are: 1) knowledge of the “enemy”; 2) a regular once a week spray program, (which can be stretched to 2 weeks in complete absence or rain); 3) Complete coverage of spray material on both sides of all leaves; 4) Twice a week spraying when the disease has started, or if there is a period of daily rainfall; and, 5) Picking off the infected leaves from the bush and ground as well.

Remember fungicides are applied to prevent the spores from infec�ng the plant. You can kill them only when they are germina�ng, thus preven�ng them from entering the leaf.

Sources:Black Spot on Roses and it’s Control, Hugo Kuze, CFRS Consul�ng Rosarian, (Wind Chimes, 2004);Black Spot of Rose, University of Florida IFAS Extension: h�p://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pp268;Black Spot, “Rose Magazine”: h�p://www.rosemagazine.com/ar�cles02/pages/blackspot.asp

The difference between Contact and Systemic Fungicides

The fungicides recommended in this newsle�er for spraying your roses are generally of two basic types - contact or systemic.

Contact fungicides stay where they are applied, i.e., on the surface of the leaves and canes and destroy the fungus spores that are found there. Commonly recommended contact fungicides: Mancozeb, Diathane T/O, or Pentathlon DF.

Systemic fungicides work by becoming absorbed into the plant �ssues and protec�ng the plant from fungal diseases as well as ridding the plant of any exis�ng diseases. These are compounds that prevent the germina�ng black spot spore from taking hold on the leaf. While systemic fungicides do not kill the spores, they do stop the spread of the fungus by interfering with its metabolism. Systemic fungicides are unlikely to be washed off a�er they have dried. Commonly recommended systemic fungicides: Bayer Advanced Disease Control for Roses, Flowers, & Shrubs, Cleary’s 3336, Banner Maxx, Honor Guard.

By combining a Contact fungicide with a Systemic fungicide you provide two “modes of a�ack” and thus a be�er chance of controlling the fungus.

http://www.rosemagazine.com/articles02/pages/blackspot.asphttp://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pp268


CFRS 2018 Execu�ve Board

President Jim Small [email protected]

1st V.P. Martha Seneff [email protected]

2nd V.P. Wendell Ulmer [email protected]

Secretary Chris�ne Panco [email protected]

Treasurer Tom Burke [email protected]

Director Michael Cimato [email protected]

Director Kathy Ulmer [email protected]

Director Phan Oakanishi [email protected]

Director Vivian Rhodes [email protected]

NEED HELP WITH YOUR ROSES?The American Rose Society (ARS) ins�tuted the Consul�ng Rosarian (CR) program in 1920 and expanded the program to each District in 1949. The ARS established CR schools and an exam to ensure that every Consul�ng Rosarian is properly qualified to give advice on rose culture, thereby suppor�ng the educa�onal func�on of the society. Consul�ng Rosarians agree to assist anyone interested in growing roses by answering ques�ons about rose care and cultural problems. On the back page of this newsle�er you will find a list of the Central Florida Rose Society Consul�ng Rosarians. These individuals have been qualified by the ARS as Consul�ng Rosarians and are available to help with any ques-�ons you have. Feel free to contact them. They are here to help you!

The Wind Chimes is taking a

Summer Break !

Your newsle�er is produced 10 �mes each year. This is a combined issue for the months of July and

August. The September Wind Chimes will be published about a week before the September 6th mee�ng! Look for an email no�ce to arrive when it is available!!

Un�l we meet again in September we hope you have a great Summer!!!

There are many ways to provide water for the roses from hand watering (a water wand is good because it gently deposits a large amount of water in a limited space for easy access to the roots), to various micro-spray systems or even individual bubblers for each plant. A rose plant needs water to the full depth of its roots (assume 14 inches), in enough quan�ty to keep soil constantly moist but not waterlogged.

Overhead sprinkling is a great way to cool off and refresh your bushes on a hot summer a�ernoon. Wherever there's dust or air pollu�on, leaves benefit from over-head watering every week or so, both to remove dust and to wash away some insect pests, especially aphids. A�er several minutes under overhead sprinklers, you’ll be amazed at how refreshed your bushes look! Right about now you are probably thinking … "I've always heard "Don't get the leaves wet!!" Water on the leaves is not a bad thing – it will not spread black spot if the leaves are only wet for a short �me and if you let your bushes breeze dry before nigh�all. This mid-day over-head watering is only to cool down and wash off the foliage. Most of the water applied overhead is lost to evapora�on and will not reach down into the root zone. However, water restric�ons which are frequently in effect will prohibit the �me and days in which you can perform this task, unless you are washing off the bushes by hand.

Water is life sustaining to both plants and animals - both are dependent upon water, and cannot survive without it. Adequate water is the key ingredient to growing healthy roses over the summer months.

Water, Your Key to Success, continued from page 7

mailto:[email protected]:[email protected]:[email protected]


The Central Florida Rose Society (CFRS) is a non-profit organization established to provide education and educational resources to its members and to the public regarding the culture of roses, including site selection, propagation, planting, maintenance, harvesting, arranging, preserving and exhibiting. Anyone interested in learning more about roses is invited to join. CFRS meets at 7:00 pm the first Thursday of each month (except July, August and December) in the “Rose Room” at Leu Gardens, 1920 N. Forest Avenue, Orlando, FL 32803. Each meet-ing features a speaker or program on rose related topics, a raffle, refreshments and rose friends. The com-munity is invited to visit all meetings and everyone from novice to expert rose grower is warmly welcomed!

CFRS MEMBERSHIPPlease choose one

An Electronic Membership for all family members at the same address: $20.00Special “By Mail” Memberships are available for members needing a mailed copy (B&W only): $30.00

Do NOT include my information in the Society Directory when published. ______ (Initial)

Date: _____________ Renewal ____ or New Member ____ Check Number: ___________

Name(s): _______________________________________________________________________

Address: _______________________________________________________________________

City: ________________ State: ______ Zip: ___________-_______ Phone: ________________

Email address: _____________________________________________

Please return this form with your check, made payable to the “Central Florida Rose Society” to the CFRS Membership Database Coordinator:

Tom Burke, 111 N. Silver Cluster Court, Longwood, FL 32750-4029

If you have questions regarding your membership, please contact Tom Burke at (407) 721-9852 [email protected]

A membership form can also be downloaded from the CFRS webpage, www.CentralFloridaRoseSociety.org

Information on ARS and on the Deep South District Newsletter The American Rose Society

The Central Florida Rose Society encourages you to join our parent organization, the American Rose Society. Membership benefits include the American Rose magazine, the American Rose Annual, the Handbook for Selecting Roses, and reciprocating gardens admissions. Annual dues are $49 or $46 for those 65 or older; a three-year membership is $140. Associate membership for the spouse of regular member is $13. ARS also publishes five specialty quarterly bulletins that can be accessed from the “Members Only” section of www.ars.org at no charge: The OGR & Shrub Gazette, Mini News, Exhibitors’ Quarter-ly, Singularly Beautiful Roses, and The Rose Arranger's Bulletin. For information, or to join, contact the ARS at www.ars.org, or by phone, 1-800-637-6534.

The Deep South District

The DSD Bulletin is the quarterly publication of the Deep South District (Alabama, Florida & Georgia). It is provided electronically to all ARS members in the district who have valid e-mail addresses. Black & white print copies are availa-ble if you do not have e-mail capability. The Bulletin is essential reading for all Consulting Rosarians, Judges within this District, and anyone who just wants to keep up with the continuous changes and improvements in growing roses. You can receive a black and white copy of the Bulletin for $10 per year by mailing your check to the DSD Treasurer, Kay Harrell at 121 Shore Rush Cr., St. Simons Island, GA 31522. You can also find more information regarding the Deep South District at www.deepsouthdistrict.org.

http://www.deepsouthdistrict.org/http://www.ars.org/http://centralfloridarosesociety.org/mailto:[email protected]

NEED HELP WITH YOUR ROSES? The Consul�ng Rosarians of the Central Florida Rose Society are available to help anyone who wants to learn more about rose hor�culture. Do not hesitate to contact them if you are interested in growing roses or have rose related ques�ons.

DISCLAIMER: While the informa�on and recommenda�ons in this publica�on are believed to be correct and accurate, neither the authors, Editor, or the Central Florida Rose Society can accept responsibility for any errors or omissions that may be made.The Central Florida Rose Society makes no warranty, expressed or implied, with respect to the material herein.

For addi�onal rose informa�on, visit the CFRS award winning web site at www.CentralFloridaRoseSociety.org.

**Tom Burke (Longwood) [email protected]

**Ron Kast (S. Orlando) 407-240-1601ShirKast@a�.net

**Marty/**Elaine Pawlikowski [email protected] (Lake Mary/Sanford)

**Jim Small (Maitland) [email protected]

* George Williamson [email protected] (Hernando County/Spring Hill)

* Consul�ng Rosarian Emeritus** Denotes Master Rosarian

“He who would have beautiful roses in his

garden must have beautiful roses in his

heart”

- Samuel Reynolds Hole

Our Lady of Guadalupe, Floribunda
mailto:[email protected]:[email protected]:[email protected]:[email protected]://centralfloridarosesociety.org/

wind chimes - central florida rose society (cfrs) · 2018. 6. 27. · july / august 2018 the wind...

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