of sugar into each bottle before fillingit with beer. The amount per bottle is3/4 tsp. per 1/2 litre, 1 1/2 tsp. per 1 litre, or 1/2 tsp. per 341 ml bottle.Cap the bottle, invert gently to mixthe sugar, and let stand for 5 to 7 days at room temperature beforetransferring to a cool area.

The second method is to prime the beer in bulk. Take 3/4 to 1 cup of corn sugar and 1 cup of water,bring to a boil in a small pot for 1 to2 minutes. Take the solution and addit to your primary fermentor (sani-tized of course). Gently transfer yourbeer from the carboy to the pail withyour syphon equipment. Stir verygently. Bottle directly from the pail,cap the bottles, and leave at roomtemperature for 5 to 7 days beforetransferring to a cool area.

Remember, it is important to leaveyour beer for at least 5 days at roomtemperature or the carbonation willnot develop.

Now, after 5 to 7 days your beer isready to drink but it is very young.You will find that if you let the beerage for at least 2 to 3 weeks after bottling, your beer will be much better.

Remember, the beer is ready whenyou think it's ready. Try one everyweek and taste the different charac-teristics as it reaches maturity. Thenwhen it tastes good to you, it's ready.

Conversion Scalesmall glass = 341 ml.beer bottle

23 litres = 5 imp. gallons

19 litres = 5 U.S. gallons

40 imp. pints = 5 imp. gallons

6 cups of = 1 kg corn sugar

BEERMAKINGInstructionSheets

1. Sanitizing your equipment

Sanitizing your equipment is themost important part of beermaking.In the beer kit you are providedwith Diversol* (pink powder). Mix1 tsp of Diversol to 1 litre of water.There are many different methodsof sanitizing your equipment.

Some people partially fill the pri-mary fermentor (plastic pail) withthe sanitizing solution and let theequipment soak while they attendto other things and some peoplesanitize their equipment individual-ly from a bottle of prepared solu-tion. With practice, you will findthe best method to suit your ownstyle of beermaking.

Important Suggestions:

• Make sure every piece ofequipment that has thepotential to come in contactwith the beer is sanitized.

• You should sanitize immediately before makingyour beer.

• Do not use high temperatureswhen sanitizing equipment.

• After sanitizing, rinse wellwith cold water.

Remember, at first the sanitizingprocedure may seem tedious. Butonce you establish a routine it willbecome second nature and theexcellent beer you make will beworth your effort.

* If you use Diversol for winemaking, DO NOT use it forsanitizing corks, wooden barrels or filter pads.

DeFalco’s... for Brewers and Winemakers Make Your Own Beer and Wine at Home... Naturally!

BELLS CORNERS613-721-9945

OTTAWA613-722-9945

ORLEANS613-590-9946

Check our website

www.defalcowines.com

Happy brewing!

©

©

©

©

©

Instructions_Beer#3.qxd 2/15/07 10:18 AM Page 1

7. Fermentation (adding the yeast)

If you have determined that the temperature of your wort lies withinthe 18°C to 23°C (65°F to 73°F) range,it is time to add (pitch) the yeast.Underneath the lid of the malt extractyou will find a package of dried yeast.Simply tear open the package andsprinkle the contents over the surfaceof the wort. Now, gently put the lid of the pail in place (DO NOT SNAP IT ON) and relax.

Within 8 to 24 hours, you should seesome sign of fermentation (i.e. someamount of foaming, from small clumpsto a thick head of foam). If you don’tnotice any fermentation withinthis time, it is CRUCIAL thatanother packet of yeast beadded (pitched). More yeast won't hurt yourbeer, but inaction couldprove costly.

Once fermentation has started, relax. Youneedn’t continuouslymonitor the beer. It'sokay to check it fromtime to time but try torespect its privacy.

After 3 or 4 days of fermentation itshould be time to proceed to the next step.

8. Hydrometer reading (Stage II)

Take another specific gravity reading. (Refer to the hydrometerinstructions).

9. Secondary fermentation

It is now time to transfer your beerfrom the pail into the glass carboy.With your sanitized syphon tubing andracking tube, start a syphon and gently

transfer your beer intothe glass carboy.There is a blackplastic cap at theend of the rack-ing tube, this will allow you tosyphon most of

the beer withoutdisturbing the sedi-

ment that has accumu-lated at the bottom of your

pail. Remember, you mightsyphon a little bit of the sediment butthat's okay as long as you try to leaveas much behind as possible.

Once the beer has been transferred,add water to the air lock (up to the 2 halfway marks) and afix the rubber

stopper with the air lock into the neck of the carboy.(Remember, at this point,do not top up the carboy or stir the beer.) Now it'stime to relax and let yourbeer stand for 1 to 2 weeksbefore bottling.

Important Note: At this point, you mayor may not see action in your air lock.

10. BottlingBefore bottling, you must be certainthat the beer is completely fermented.Beermakers usually look for three signs:

1. There is no more gas escapingthrough the air lock.

2. The Hydrometer readings remainunchanged for 2 to 3 days at anypoint between 1.000 and 1.010 ofthe specific gravity scale (1.008 to1.015 for Malt and Hi Malt glucoserecipes).

3. The beer is reasonably clear.

Now it is time to bottle your beer. There are many types of bottles tochoose from in plastic and glass.Regardless of what type you choose youshould have enough bottles for yourbatch of beer (approximately 48 1/2 litre,24 1 litre, or 65 341 ml bottles) and theyshould be cleaned and sanitized verywell. (Do not boil plastic caps or plasticbottles.)

An amount of corn sugar should beadded to the beer directly before bottlingto ensure that the beer will be carbonat-ed. One way of doing this is the bottlemethod: simply add a specific amount

DeFalco’s... for Brewers and Winemakers Make Your Own Beer and Wine at Home... Naturally! DeFalco’s... for Brewers and Winemakers Make Your Own Beer and Wine at Home... Naturally!

2. Getting started(the instructions)

All the malt extract kits come with their own set of instructions.Some recommend 1 stage brewing(fermenting in the pail and bottlingright away), while others recom-mend that you don't boil your beer.In order to make better beer, werecommend that you follow ourinstructions and ignore the instruc-tions that come with the maltextract. Remember, you will makegood beer while following theinstructions directly from the can,but why not make the best beerpossible.

3. Boil your wort (wort is the term forunfermented beer)

In a large stainless steel or enamel pot, bring approxima-tely 2 litres of water to a boil.While stirring constantly, addthe contents of the can ofmalt extract and the amountof sugar the recipe requires(usually 1 kg). (Instead ofhousehold sugars, we recom-mend a variety of alterna-tive sugars, - malt, glucose,corn sugar, etc.). Stir thepot of hot liquid until theingredients are well dissolvedand let boil for 10 to 15 min-utes (stir constantly watchingfor boil over).

4. Primary fermentation (plastic pail)

Fill your sanitized pail with approximately 9 Litres (2 gallons)of cold water. Add the hotmalt mixture into the pailand top up with more coldwater until you reach the23L (5 imp. gallon) mark(inside ridge of pail, approx7 cm from top). (Some maltkits are intended to makeless than the normal 23L. If so, pre-mark your pri-mary fermentor according-ly). With a sanitized spoon(not wooden) make sure the wort is well mixed.

5. Temperature(thermometer)

Take your sanitized floating thermometer and gently place itinto your wort. Ideally, you wantyour beer to fall into the tempera-ture range of 18°C to 23°C (65°F to 73°F). Remove the thermometerfrom the wort and record the reading. If it is too warm let it cool down, if it is too cold let itwarm up.

*Before starting, you shoulddetermine at what part of yourhouse or apartment the fermen-tation is going to take place.Pick a spot where there is a consistant temperaturebetween 18°C to 23°C (65°F to 73°F).

6. Hydrometer reading (stage I)

Syphon a small amount of wort into yourtest jar (about 1 1/2 inches fromthe top). Recordyour reading fromthe specific gravityscale. (Refer to the hydrometerinstructions).

GIVE ME A REST,

WOULD YOU!

©

©

©

©

©

©

Instructions_Beer#3.qxd 2/15/07 10:18 AM Page 3

7. Fermentation (adding the yeast)

If you have determined that the temperature of your wort lies withinthe 18°C to 23°C (65°F to 73°F) range,it is time to add (pitch) the yeast.Underneath the lid of the malt extractyou will find a package of dried yeast.Simply tear open the package andsprinkle the contents over the surfaceof the wort. Now, gently put the lid of the pail in place (DO NOT SNAP IT ON) and relax.

Within 8 to 24 hours, you should seesome sign of fermentation (i.e. someamount of foaming, from small clumpsto a thick head of foam). If you don’tnotice any fermentation withinthis time, it is CRUCIAL thatanother packet of yeast beadded (pitched). More yeast won't hurt yourbeer, but inaction couldprove costly.

Once fermentation has started, relax. Youneedn’t continuouslymonitor the beer. It'sokay to check it fromtime to time but try torespect its privacy.

After 3 or 4 days of fermentation itshould be time to proceed to the next step.

8. Hydrometer reading (Stage II)

Take another specific gravity reading. (Refer to the hydrometerinstructions).

9. Secondary fermentation

It is now time to transfer your beerfrom the pail into the glass carboy.With your sanitized syphon tubing andracking tube, start a syphon and gently

transfer your beer intothe glass carboy.There is a blackplastic cap at theend of the rack-ing tube, this will allow you tosyphon most of

the beer withoutdisturbing the sedi-

ment that has accumu-lated at the bottom of your

pail. Remember, you mightsyphon a little bit of the sediment butthat's okay as long as you try to leaveas much behind as possible.

Once the beer has been transferred,add water to the air lock (up to the 2 halfway marks) and afix the rubber

stopper with the air lock into the neck of the carboy.(Remember, at this point,do not top up the carboy or stir the beer.) Now it'stime to relax and let yourbeer stand for 1 to 2 weeksbefore bottling.

Important Note: At this point, you mayor may not see action in your air lock.

10. BottlingBefore bottling, you must be certainthat the beer is completely fermented.Beermakers usually look for three signs:

1. There is no more gas escapingthrough the air lock.

2. The Hydrometer readings remainunchanged for 2 to 3 days at anypoint between 1.000 and 1.010 ofthe specific gravity scale (1.008 to1.015 for Malt and Hi Malt glucoserecipes).

3. The beer is reasonably clear.

Now it is time to bottle your beer. There are many types of bottles tochoose from in plastic and glass.Regardless of what type you choose youshould have enough bottles for yourbatch of beer (approximately 48 1/2 litre,24 1 litre, or 65 341 ml bottles) and theyshould be cleaned and sanitized verywell. (Do not boil plastic caps or plasticbottles.)

An amount of corn sugar should beadded to the beer directly before bottlingto ensure that the beer will be carbonat-ed. One way of doing this is the bottlemethod: simply add a specific amount

DeFalco’s... for Brewers and Winemakers Make Your Own Beer and Wine at Home... Naturally! DeFalco’s... for Brewers and Winemakers Make Your Own Beer and Wine at Home... Naturally!

2. Getting started(the instructions)

All the malt extract kits come with their own set of instructions.Some recommend 1 stage brewing(fermenting in the pail and bottlingright away), while others recom-mend that you don't boil your beer.In order to make better beer, werecommend that you follow ourinstructions and ignore the instruc-tions that come with the maltextract. Remember, you will makegood beer while following theinstructions directly from the can,but why not make the best beerpossible.

3. Boil your wort (wort is the term forunfermented beer)

In a large stainless steel or enamel pot, bring approxima-tely 2 litres of water to a boil.While stirring constantly, addthe contents of the can ofmalt extract and the amountof sugar the recipe requires(usually 1 kg). (Instead ofhousehold sugars, we recom-mend a variety of alterna-tive sugars, - malt, glucose,corn sugar, etc.). Stir thepot of hot liquid until theingredients are well dissolvedand let boil for 10 to 15 min-utes (stir constantly watchingfor boil over).

4. Primary fermentation (plastic pail)

Fill your sanitized pail with approximately 9 Litres (2 gallons)of cold water. Add the hotmalt mixture into the pailand top up with more coldwater until you reach the23L (5 imp. gallon) mark(inside ridge of pail, approx7 cm from top). (Some maltkits are intended to makeless than the normal 23L. If so, pre-mark your pri-mary fermentor according-ly). With a sanitized spoon(not wooden) make sure the wort is well mixed.

5. Temperature(thermometer)

Take your sanitized floating thermometer and gently place itinto your wort. Ideally, you wantyour beer to fall into the tempera-ture range of 18°C to 23°C (65°F to 73°F). Remove the thermometerfrom the wort and record the reading. If it is too warm let it cool down, if it is too cold let itwarm up.

*Before starting, you shoulddetermine at what part of yourhouse or apartment the fermen-tation is going to take place.Pick a spot where there is a consistant temperaturebetween 18°C to 23°C (65°F to 73°F).

6. Hydrometer reading (stage I)

Syphon a small amount of wort into yourtest jar (about 1 1/2 inches fromthe top). Recordyour reading fromthe specific gravityscale. (Refer to the hydrometerinstructions).

GIVE ME A REST,

WOULD YOU!

©

©

©

©

©

©

Instructions_Beer#3.qxd 2/15/07 10:18 AM Page 3

of sugar into each bottle before fillingit with beer. The amount per bottle is3/4 tsp. per 1/2 litre, 1 1/2 tsp. per 1 litre, or 1/2 tsp. per 341 ml bottle.Cap the bottle, invert gently to mixthe sugar, and let stand for 5 to 7 days at room temperature beforetransferring to a cool area.

The second method is to prime the beer in bulk. Take 3/4 to 1 cup of corn sugar and 1 cup of water,bring to a boil in a small pot for 1 to2 minutes. Take the solution and addit to your primary fermentor (sani-tized of course). Gently transfer yourbeer from the carboy to the pail withyour syphon equipment. Stir verygently. Bottle directly from the pail,cap the bottles, and leave at roomtemperature for 5 to 7 days beforetransferring to a cool area.

Remember, it is important to leaveyour beer for at least 5 days at roomtemperature or the carbonation willnot develop.

Now, after 5 to 7 days your beer isready to drink but it is very young.You will find that if you let the beerage for at least 2 to 3 weeks after bottling, your beer will be much better.

Remember, the beer is ready whenyou think it's ready. Try one everyweek and taste the different charac-teristics as it reaches maturity. Thenwhen it tastes good to you, it's ready.

Conversion Scalesmall glass = 341 ml.beer bottle

23 litres = 5 imp. gallons

19 litres = 5 U.S. gallons

40 imp. pints = 5 imp. gallons

6 cups of = 1 kg corn sugar

BEERMAKINGInstructionSheets

1. Sanitizing your equipment

Sanitizing your equipment is themost important part of beermaking.In the beer kit you are providedwith Diversol* (pink powder). Mix1 tsp of Diversol to 1 litre of water.There are many different methodsof sanitizing your equipment.

Some people partially fill the pri-mary fermentor (plastic pail) withthe sanitizing solution and let theequipment soak while they attendto other things and some peoplesanitize their equipment individual-ly from a bottle of prepared solu-tion. With practice, you will findthe best method to suit your ownstyle of beermaking.

Important Suggestions:

• Make sure every piece ofequipment that has thepotential to come in contactwith the beer is sanitized.

• You should sanitize immediately before makingyour beer.

• Do not use high temperatureswhen sanitizing equipment.

• After sanitizing, rinse wellwith cold water.

Remember, at first the sanitizingprocedure may seem tedious. Butonce you establish a routine it willbecome second nature and theexcellent beer you make will beworth your effort.

* If you use Diversol for winemaking, DO NOT use it forsanitizing corks, wooden barrels or filter pads.

DeFalco’s... for Brewers and Winemakers Make Your Own Beer and Wine at Home... Naturally!

BELLS CORNERS613-721-9945

OTTAWA613-722-9945

ORLEANS613-590-9946

Check our website

www.defalcowines.com

Happy brewing!

©

©

©

©

©

Instructions_Beer#3.qxd 2/15/07 10:18 AM Page 1