Z I P P E DSPRING 2016

SPRING 2016ISSUE 17 | ZIPPED MAGAZINE

06 GET THE LOOK Upgrade your wardrobe with statement prints, bright colors, and ‘90s throwbacks 08 TALKING TEXTURE Ditch the hair products for a natural ’do10 LET IT SHINE The dewy skin makeover11 FAKING IT Try these temporary beauty tricks

12 A NEW GENERATION Young designers step into prominent roles 14 FINE ART Fashion meets craft with artwork by SU students 22 CAUGHT ON CAMERA The authenticity of fashion week street style24 MADE IN AMERICA The U.S. fashion takeover26 TWO FOR THE ROAD The ’60s make a comeback this season

36 SLEEP NO MORE Take pajamas from the sheets to the streets37 FASHION FROM FILM Style inspiration straight from the cinema38 Q+A WITH ALIZA LICHT Zipped gets the inside scoop from former DKNY PR Girl

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

18 top left photographed by michael isenburg, modeled by fiona lenz, dress by conner ives top right photographed by allen chiu, modeled by ana vendrell, hair & makeup by julia welch, dress by reformation, scarf by j.crew middle left photographed by michael isenburg,“turned” by ilana wolfson, materials: paper towels, acrylic paint, black sewing string middle right photographed by allen chiu, modeled by marie lawrence, shirt by míshi new york, lingerie by allen chiu intimates bottom left photographed by allen chiu, modeled by sofia zavala, hair & makeup by marilyn musterait, top by h&m, skirt by alexa chung for ag jeans, sunglasses by stella mccartney bottom right photographed by michael isenburg, modeled by chloe hanley, hair & makeup by julia welch, top by h&m cover photographed by michael isenburg, modeled by chloe hanley, hair & makeup by julia welch, top by h&m, sunglasses by forever 21

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ELIZA WEINREBEditor-in-Chief

NOUTCHA LOPESPublisher

EMMA BATYManaging Editor

YERIN KIMCreative Director

CHARLOTTE BICKLEYFashion Director

KAYLA ISAACSExecutive Editor

NISHA STICKLESManaging Editor

PHOTO & DESIGN

DANIELLE LAROSEArt Director

MARISSA ANGELONEArt Director

FEATURES

JACKIE HOMANFeatures Editor

RENEE CHERRYFeatures Editor

ERIN REIMELBeauty Features Editor

FASHION & BEAUTY

LAURA CABRALFashion Stylist

MAYA SOLOFashion Stylist

MARILYN MUSTERAITBeauty Assistant

JULIA WELCHBeauty Assistant

MADISON BREAUXAsst. Features Editor

MICHAEL ISENBURGPhoto Editor

ALLEN CHIUPhoto Editor

PUBLIC RELATIONS WEB CONTENT

ZOË MALLIAROSPR Director

KRISTEN HURLEYPR Assistant

LAUREN SINATRAPR Assistant

MARLÉNA AHEARNWeb Director

DAYNA DIJOSEPHWeb Editor

DARRIEA CLARKWeb Editor

MELISSA CHESSHERFaculty Advisor

COLLIN GORDINIER Copy EditorDANIELLE AGUGLIARO Research Editor

CORY FERNÁNDEZAsst. Features Editor

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pring forward. Clocks and wardrobes change signifying warmer days and fresh starts lie ahead.

This year, my favorite season also marks a close: the end of my time here at Syracuse. While I admit I am going to miss the comfort and familiarity of my daily routine, particularly 2 p.m. Kubal coffee breaks, I’m equally excited to experience something new, to challenge myself, and to think differently. For the first time in three years, my schedule will not be strategically planned out months in advance. The possibilities are endless, especially now that bad lottery numbers are not dictating my choices. (I’m convinced MySlice is rigged.)

This issue, Zipped invites you to free yourself and take a new direction. Turn to page 38 and learn how to reinvent your image with the help of former DKNY PR Girl Aliza Licht who recently stepped down from her 17-year position as SVP of Global Communications at Donna Karan New York to start her own strategic consulting brand, Leave Your Mark LLC (Q+A). Or, revamp your spring beauty look with a few easy, commitment-free tricks that make a dramatic impact (Fakeup, p. 11). Read Battle

of the Brands on page 12 and discover how young-er designers are breaking into the once-impene-trable industry and making their presences known with the help of social media. If you’re looking for some inspiration, pack up your bags and take a cue from our retro-inspired fashion spread to travel cross-country in style even if the destination is un-clear (Route ’66, p. 26).

As I continue on my own undefined journey in the coming months, I realize it’s not the end, but rather the simple prospect of moving forward that matters most. Taking any step means progress.

Cheers to the hopeful wanderers exploring their own possibilities. You never know your limits until you’ve tested them.

Bon voyage,

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Eliza WeinrebEditor-in-Chief

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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

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BRIEFS

BY ZOË MALLIAROSGET THE LOOK

1. BACKPACK $795, YSL; ysl.com 2. SHOES $250, Kate

Spade New York; katespade.com 3. SUNGLASSES $340,

Garrett Leight; garrettleight.com 4. SHORTS $29.90, Zara; zara.

com 5. BELT $17, Asos; asos.com 6. COAT $169, Zara; zara.

com 7. BANDANA $12.50, Madewell; madewell.com

CALVIN KLEIN 2016

Hit the ‘90s greatest styles... one more time.

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PRADA 1996

ALLSTARS

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GOING

JEREMY SCOTT

GRAPHICShow off your quirky side with playful patches and bold prints, sure to make a statement.

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1. SUNGLASSES $290, Illeste-va; illesteva.com 2.SHOES $288.42, Joshua Sanders; joshua-sanders.com 3. PANTS $425, Stella McCartney; stella-mccartney.com 4. BAG $1,295, Anya Hindmarch; anyahind-march.com 5. SHIRT $9.90, Zara; zara.com 6. JACKET $1,860, Mira Mikati x KAWS; shop.nordstrom.com

@NYTIMESFASHION

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BRIEFS

Embrace your natural hair with this season’s top beauty trend.

BY MADISON BREAUX

Soft layers help create perfect wavy locks. To enhance the natural texture and add extra shine, Salomone suggests us-ing Après Beach Wave and Shine Spray by Oribe (oribe.com, $39). “You spray from the bottom up while your hair is damp or dry and out the door you go,” she says.

w a v y

Thicker haired ladies often want a smooth look, frequently reaching for the flat iron. Instead of running the hot tool all over, focus on the areas that need extra attention. Salomone recommends using a heat protectant spray like Chi’s 44 Iron Guard Thermal Protection Spray (Ulta, $15) to prevent damage so hair looks sleek instead of fried.

t h i c k

Girls with thin hair often complain their locks fall lifelessly. The best way to embrace finer texture is to avoid heavy mouss-es and gels. Jillian Salomone, owner of J. Luxe Salon in Syra-cuse, suggests using a thickening spray like Dallas by R+Co (randco.com, $28) to give fine hair some extra volume.

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Ditch heavy products that weigh down your ringlets. Opt for a hydrating leave-in conditioner like Ouidad’s Moisture Lock Leave-In Conditioner (Ouidad, $26) and style with a gel to tame any unwanted frizz. When it comes to curls, the bigger the better, so embrace any remaining pouff and finish with hairspray to hold.

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T E X T U R ET O M E

For decades, women worked to iron, curl, and blow their hair out to fit society’s beauty ideals. Thankful-ly, the rules of hair care have been broken as women

now embrace their natural texture. “I think ‘beautiful hair’ used to be very styled and perfectly placed. Now, I believe it’s just hair that is healthy with a great haircut and hair col-or,” says Stephanie Dantuono, founder and owner of Adagio Salon in Syracuse, NY.

Find ways to enhance your texture instead of trying to change it. Natural products help style some of the unrulier hair, taming it just enough so you can wake up, add a little product, and walk out the door.

photographed by michael isenburgmodeled by samantha robleshair & makeup by julia welch

Matte foundations and liquid lipsticks are being traded for a glossier, more luminescent look all over. The spring makeup trend dominated the

runways at Opening Ceremony, Marc Jacobs, and Alexan-der Wang, proving natural sheen is the ultimate cool-girl summer look.

“It’s very editorial,” says Emma Rainear, senior educating consultant at Sephora. Rainear has seen a rise in products catering to girls looking for a glossy eye or extra glowy skin. MAC’s Studio Eye Gloss (maccosmetics.com, $22) is one of the launches tailored to helping customers mimic the style. Apply it all over the eye for an effortless, no makeup look or layer it over a cream shadow to amp up the pigments for a more dramatic take. For the skin, Rainear says mixing a luminous foundation with a highlighting primer like Kevyn Aucoin’s The Celestial Skin Liquid Lighting (Sepho-ra.com, $52) will give skin the glow it needs.

Finish it off with the Tatcha Luminous Dewy Skin Mist (Sephora.com, $48) for an intense yet wearable look.

The key is to use very thin layers so it doesn’t get too messy. Makeup artist James Boehmer applied clear lip gloss to mod-

els’ eyelids and cheekbones at the spring/summer 2016 Opening Ceremony show. At Marc Jacobs, François Nars used this same technique by layering Vaseline on the lids, cheekbones, and under the eyes of the models. This method reflects light and creates a dewier finish on top of the skin.

A cult favorite product for a glossy finish is Glossier’s The Balm Dotcom (glossier.com, $12). It’s a skin salve that’s meant to boost hy-dration, but it also works all over the face for an extra dewy, natural complexion. Balms and glosses make for easy application with just a touch of the products patted in with the fin-gers. It’s simple and effortless. Sweating in the summer sun never looked so good.

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Move away from matte and let your skin shine with a dewy makeover.GLOSSED OVER

photographed by michael isenburgmodeled by samantha robleshair & makeup by julia welch

BY ERIN REIMEL

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Instead of splurging on pricey lip fillers, over-line your lips the old-fashioned way. Kontak says for the most natural look, it’s best to choose a lip liner shade closest to the lipstick color you plan on using. Then, start by over-lining the lips from the center of your cupid’s bow (the area right below your nose) and move closer towards your natural lip line as you reach the corner. For an easy application and plenty of color options, try MAC’s Lip Pen-cil (MAC, $16.50) or Urban Decay’s 24/7

Glide-On Lip Pencil (Sephora, $20).

If you’ve ever dreamed of a having a freckled face like sixties icon Charlotte Rampling, find an eyeliner pencil in a color a few shades dark-er than your skin tone, such as Make Up For Ever’s Kohl Pencil (Sephora, $18). Lightly dot where you want the freckles, like around your T-zone, or try one prominent beauty mark for a sultry Marilyn Monroe vibe.

FAKEUP

Khloé Kardashian and Jennifer Lawrence captured media attention by cutting off their hair and opting for fresh, “just rolled out of bed” styles. Instead of chopping off all of your locks, create this sexy “cut” without trimming an inch. It’s best to use second or third-day hair. Begin by adding some texture with a dry shampoo or texturizing spray. “Section off the hair into medium-sized portions, and then tuck the hair under and secure with a bobby pin,” says Kontak. “Finish off by running your fingers or comb through all of the hair so it naturally flows together, and then spritz a flexible hairspray.”

Beauty trends change in the blink of an eye. But quick tricks make it possible to keep up with the looks of the moment. If you’re hesitant to go all in with a total makeover, Zipped discovered a few commitment-free ways to switch things up.

The thicker the brows, the better. Aim for a defined arch with a light, feathery finish. Using an eyebrow pencil brush like the An-astasia Beverly Hills Brow Wiz (Sephora, $20) or a basic matte eye shadow the same shade as your brow hair, lightly fill in sparse spots. “For the most natural appearance, start filling in at the top arch of your brow working towards the end,” says Tammy Kontak, beau-ty stylist at Garbo’s Salon & Spa in Syracuse, NY. “Then finish up at the front portion of the brow.” She suggests spraying hairspray on a toothbrush or spooly and running it

through for an all-day hold.

Enhance your beauty look with these temporary transformations.

FULL OF FRECKLES

PLUMPED UP POUT

BOLD BROWS FAKE THE CHOP

photographed by michael isenburgmodeled by chloe hanley

hair & makeup by julia welch

BY KAITLYN FREY

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FEATURES

As legendary designers leave their fashion houses, smaller labels make their presences known.

BY MARY ANDERSON

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Out of the five 2016 CFDA nominees for Womenswear Designer of the Year, only one—Marc Jacobs—was founded before 2005. Starting a brand to compete with multi-billion dollar fashion houses may seem like an impossible feat, but it’s one that young

designers are willing to try with the help of social media. Newer brands are being publicized much faster than in the past, thanks to their online presences.

Emerging designers depend on more than good reviews to build support in the industry. “There are a lot more brands than there were 20 years ago…and we also have more exposure to brands. Twenty years ago you wouldn’t have known [about the brands] unless you read every magazine ever. But now if you go online [there is] more access to more information,” says Lauren Sherman, the New York editor for Business of Fashion.

Vetements, which has only been showing since fall 2014, received rave reviews for its spring/summer 2016 collection. That popularity has translated virtually to the brand’s 300K plus Instagram following as of March 2016.

“If you look at Vetements, I think a really big reason Demna [Gvasalia] was hired at Balenciaga is because his work is huge on street style…[Balenciaga] wants to be huge on Instagram and they want the images of those clothes everywhere,” Sherman says. Vetements and other younger brands’ social media impact may influence who’s chosen as the next creative directors for older houses. Though millennials may not be a luxury brand’s target market, their significant sharing-and-buying power makes it essential for established brands to build fanbases.

Instead of dramatically altering a brand’s aesthetic to appeal to younger audiences, older fashion houses have rebranded themselves through social media to relate to the massive millennial online presence. They’ll collaborate with or feature a popular Instagram star to boost their own following or popularity. But this can come at a price. Not all consumers are as accepting of the brand’s social media direction, even if their muses have a lot of followers.

Balmain’s creative director, Olivier Rousteing, has often been criticized for dressing and focusing on the Kardashian family. Similarly,

Burberry chief executive officer Christopher Bailey’s choice of David and Victoria Beckham’s 16-year-old son, Brooklyn, to photograph the brand’s next campaign raised a few eyebrows, according to a BBC.com article. Yet, both the Kardashians and Brooklyn Beckham have millions of followers, promising an increase in online presence for the older houses. According to digital intelligence firm L2, Burberry has the top Digital IQ Index ranking, meaning that the brand performs exceptionally well online and may be headed in the right direction by incorporating Beckham into its brand.

Even if brands thrive online, they can struggle to make a profit. “Rarely are new designers really even selling. Brand new designers are just showing floor pieces or a collection of 8-14 pieces,” says fashion historian and

New York Times bestselling writer E.P. Cutler. They often lack the financial

resources that a larger, older brand may have, making it difficult for them to profit quickly in the international market.

Although social media has aided both emerging and established brands, it has also made it difficult to stay at the top. “I don’t think it’s a young versus old brand thing. I think it’s the matter of the resources you have and using them…It’s really difficult to remain relevant no matter what brand you are,” Sherman says.

Established houses that have a winning formula of a successful creative director, a highly profitable collection, and a strong social media

following may still feel the need to change their creative direction.

In the past year, Alexander Wang left Balenciaga, Raf Simons left Dior, and Alber Elbaz left Lanvin, some controversially and some on good terms.

In April, Yves Saint Laurent erased its Instagram posts following Hedi Slimane’s departure and posted a single image of the new creative director, Anthony Vaccarello, dramatically marking the end of his reign.

Despite the constant musical chairs of creative direction, a primary concern for some fashion critics is hiring designers who will stay true to the house’s heritage rather than focus on profit margins. “I think it’s a mistake to completely lose the history of a house,” Cutler says. “The new [look] that references the old…That’s when I think houses are at their best.”

FEATURES

“ESTABLISHED HOUSES THAT HAVE A WINNING

FORMULA OF A SUCCESSFUL CREATIVE DIRECTOR, A HIGHLY

PROFITABLE COLLECTION, AND A STRONG SOCIAL MEDIA FOLLOWING MAY

STILL FEEL THE NEED TO CHANGE THEIR CREATIVE

DIRECTION.”

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Art and design converge. Syracuse students’ contemporary artwork complements this spring’s top trends.

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photographed by michael isenburgmodeled by fiona lenz, chloe hanleystyled by charlotte bickley, laura cabral, maya solohair & makeup by julia welch

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“strive on - the control of nature is won not given” by stefan zoller, materials: acrylic on canvas

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“unfinished” by jenna krypell, materials: upholstered canvas, foamtop & pants: conner ives

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“turned” by ilana wolfson, materials: paper towels, acrylic paint, black sewing stringtrench: reformation, bomber: helmut lang, jumpsuit: reformation

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“interactive form” by jenna krypell, materials: foam, styrospray, spraypainttop: victoria’s secret, pants: aqua

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P om-poms. Feathers. Tassels. Technicolor faux fur jackets. Stripes on stripes on even more eye-straining stripes. Looking through photographs of street style from the fall/

winter 2016 fashion shows in New York, London, Milan, and Paris, it’s clear that outrageous fashion is all the rage. Or maybe it’s simply all that is caught on camera.

Fashion week street style photography has taken over the industry, as journalists critique these looks almost more than the actual shows. The trend began as an authentic way to capture the most stylish outfits. Naturally, photographers found that the style savvy brought their best during the major fashion weeks.

Now, however, some fashion editors are saying that fashion week street style has become basic—that people try too hard for the photograph, their artificial looks used only to achieve some level of fame. In an essay for Man Repeller, Cosmopolitan.com editor Amy Odell writes: “Basic is putting on something you think is unique, showing up to fashion week and then realizing everyone around you also looks like a walking circus tent.” Odell goes on to talk about an experiment she performed while working for The Cut. Sporting some Miu Miu and a Chanel bag, Odell, typically not caught on camera, set out to discover if she too could capture the attention of street photographers. It worked. Dozens of lenses pointed her way.

That experiment, Odell explained, demonstrates the paradox of fashion week street style. If you go dressed authentically, photographers won’t pay attention to you. But if you dress outlandishly in recognizable designer pieces, others will label you as desperate for attention.

Erin Cunningham, senior fashion editor at Refinery29, says

As the style savvy become more conscious of the camera, critics wonder: are their outlandish ensembles artistic expression or simply a cry for attention?

@nytimesfashion

BYJACKIE HOMAN

____STREETSMARTS____

@styledumonde

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although she thinks fashion week street style photography has become oversaturated and overdone, it still holds purpose, especially for the commercial aspects of the industry. “I think it has taken away from the actual shows, which is the purpose of fashion week. But at the same time, when people look at the runways, they can’t imagine themselves wearing those clothes. Street style makes it feel more relatable and brings it to the masses,” Cunningham says.

Opening up the fashion industry to a wider audience has been an important result of street style blogging. Scott Schuman became one of the first street style bloggers when he founded The Sartorialist in 2005. Since then, the concept has been mimicked over and over. While the huge quantity of street style blogs today makes fashion accessible to anyone with an internet connection, their popularity has made the entire idea seem stale.

Still, Schuman remains confident about his daily muses. “These are fashion people, all getting together twice a year to look at the new collections. Fashion people always get dressed up, especially if they know a lot of other fashion people will be at an event,” he says. “These are people that dedicate their life to style, fashion, and the arts. People are just more aware of this subculture than they were before.”Schuman says that while these editors and bloggers are obviously getting dressed to go to fashion week, that doesn’t make them fake —it simply shows they love what they do.

Cunningham also explains that while some people are clearly getting help with their outfits and borrowing designer clothes, it is fairly easy to spot who is who. “I think you can tell by looking at a picture whether someone put that on themselves or is trying to look that way,” she says.

When getting photographed, designer labels may not matter. Schuman’s process for choosing subjects does not include looking for particular clothing items, but rather “seeing and recognizing a moment and letting [himself] react to it.” He believes there are three things that make a great photograph: the character and personality type of the subject; his or her overall style, including color combinations and beautiful silhouettes; and the environment’s lighting.

Not everyone getting photographed thinks about the labels either. Jenny Walton, an illustrator who works alongside Schuman at The Sartorialist, is a regular street style subject. For Walton, her priorities when choosing what to wear for events like fashion week stem from practicality. “My number one concern is what I can fit into one suitcase,” she says. “The main thing I’m thinking about is how I can make the most interesting combinations and pairings out of as few pieces as possible by mixing and matching them together.”

Cunningham acknowledged that fashion week street style has become more practical in the past couple of seasons, saying that she has observed fewer crazy stilettos and more sweatshirts, comfortable shoes, and coats—especially in New York. This may reflect where street style is heading: towards a more relaxed atmosphere.

Still, there will always be fashion people who want to dress up, and if there’s one time and place to do it, fashion week is it. “Everything goes in cycles, and I think right now, people are looking for more authentic and unique individual ideas of dressing,” Walton says. “It’s the photographer’s job to find those people with unique styles and bring beautiful and exciting images of them to you. Thankfully Scott [Schuman] is very good at that, and so long as there are new generations, there will always be new, fresh, and exciting ideas.”

__I think you can

tell by looking at

a picture whether

someone put that

on themselves or

is trying to look

that way.

“_search

@gastrochic

—ERIN CUNNINGHAMSMARTS____

FEATURES

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NEW AMERI-CANA

Fashion’s underdogs are ready to take over.BY ALEXIS MCDONELL

1973: the year American fashion took center stage. Five of the top American fashion designers—Oscar de la Renta, Bill Blass, Anne Klein,

Halston, and Stephen Burrows—joined forces at the Palace of Versailles to face off against five of the most iconic French couturiers: Yves Saint Laurent, Hubert de Givenchy, Pierre Cardin, Emanuel Ungaro, and Marc Bohan of Christian Dior. The star-studded event featured a guest list of top names including Andy Warhol and the Princess of Monaco. The French came with a Cinderella-esque pumpkin coach, rocket ship, and a rhinoceros pulling a caravan, but the Americans countered with their best: 36 models, Broadway dancers, and Liza Minnelli.

It was the American fashion revolution. Designs shifted to functional sportswear, and for the first time, international perception of American style progressed.

Before the “Revolution” of ’73, Parisian maisons de mode set the trends and dressed the most influential women. American brands quite literally copied French designs. When America’s fashion elite were unable to travel to Paris during WWII, they formed their own “Press Week” in search of inspiration, which later became New York Fashion Week. During the Versailles presentation, American designers challenged their European contemporaries by emphasizing ready-to-wear, sportswear, and fashion

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FEATURESblouses. Designers are experimenting with silhouettes, androgyny, and color to create simpler, edgier looks that are often rooted in pop culture. They’re less posh and more practical. “Generally, all around the world, the idea of luxury being formal is disappearing. For many years, luxury meant formality,” says Stuart Vevers, Creative Director of Coach. “Everything from a t-shirt to a sweatshirt to a sneaker—they all come from references from American style. These pieces were created for people to do work in or to do sports in and I think that’s why they have become the way we dress today because they just work for us. They have an ease to them – a function.”

Coach has always been considered a quintessential American brand, but with the hiring of a new head designer in 2014, the label decided to reposition its brand in hopes of taking a more fashion-forward direction, something more “cool and un-elitist.” Coach’s head designer told W magazine, the brand’s concept is “American luxury.” The brand now aims for quality products with good craftsmanship to make lasting relationships with customers. Even though Vevers is British, he’s obsessed with everything American, bringing American nostalgia into this year’s looks, but in a fresh way. Think biker jackets, leather backpacks, and bomber jackets.

In their fall 2016 collections, other designers returned to past eras for inspiration, when political and social movements were often reflected in dress. “American fashion is generally much younger than European fashion. You’re often looking way back and sometimes it changes the way you create fashionable products,” says Vevers. Alexander Wang brought back grunge streetwear that was reminiscent of the “anti-fashion” movement of the ’80s. Even

Wang’s show notes resonated with the past crusade’s message. They explain that his collection “deliberately opposes

standard definitions of beauty and taste.” Wang mixed tweed skirt suits with leather shift dresses and jackets;

corduroys embroidered with pole dancers with acid-splattered dresses; and marijuana leaf-printed

jackets with belt-style chokers. Anna Sui aimed for a decade earlier, with a

show that resembled the ’70s runway. With velvet flare pants, babydoll dresses, and technicolor jumpsuits, Sui calls her collection

“Pop-sydelic.” Sui takes inspiration from pop artists, like Peter Blake and Richard Lindner.

Many designers have played off of their own backgrounds, creating looks that are

individual to their own experiences. In her most recent collection, Tory Burch looked to her equestrian background working on her family’s farmhouse in the Eastern coast. Burch showed off jodhpurs and velvet riding boots, horse-printed sweaters and silk dresses, and color blocked riding jackets with convertible harness bags.

American fashion has no set definition. It’s highly individualistic—a

mishmash of different styles, aesthetics, and influences. So while Europe

may boast its luxurious haute couture houses, Americans can brag about being

new and innovative. According to Vevers, “The French have chic, America has cool.”

And who doesn’t want to be cool?

as entertainment. Their new aesthetic gave women the freedom to express more of their individualistic styles. The names Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Oscar de la Renta, and Marc Jacobs became synonymous with the haute couture houses of Armani, Balenciaga, and Versace.

American designers hope to set themselves apart from the clean, structured style of European fashion. They gear their creations toward a modern, pragmatic, and sportier style heavily connected to contemporary nightlife, society, and celebrity.

Ralph Lauren took the style of the English aristocracy and adapted it into the quintessential all-American polished prep. Donna Karan simplified the woman’s wardrobe with the concept of “seven easy pieces”—effortless, wearable garments that could be mixed and matched to transform the look of the everyday woman. Marc Jacobs—perhaps one of the most versatile designers—touched on every end of the fashion spectrum, constructing collections that mix grunge, classics, and couture all in one. Oscar de la Renta created silhouettes distinctly modern, but also romantic and ultra-feminine, reflecting his grounding in both American sportswear and European luxury. Calvin Klein, referred to as “America’s King of Clothes,” dominated the global fashion scene with minimal designs and wearable urban styles.

Today’s designers have kept American sportswear flourishing, but have redefined it to fit the ever-changing fashion industry. Sportswear

now includes everything from casual streetwear and anything denim to dressier looks,

including tailored trousers and chiffon

illustrated by rachel wendell

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Take a spring road trip in retro stripes, mock necks, and silk headscarves.

photographed by allen chiumodeled by ana vendrell, sofia zavala styled by charlotte bickley, laura cabral, maya solohair & makeup by julia welch, marilyn musteraitsofia top: neiman marcus, necklace: h&m

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ROUTE 66‘

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dress: forever 21, scarf: vintageright ana dress: reformation, scarf: j.crew, shoes: nine west, sofia dress: forever 21, jacket: coach, shoes: dolce vita

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vest: h&m, pants: dkny, sunglasses: house of holland, scarf: rockinsright top: h&m, pants: american apparel, bag: louis vuitton, earrings: forever 21

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dress: nasty gal, top: rachel comey, shoes: stella mccartney right top: h&m, pants: topshop, bag: coach

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jacket: coach, top: reformation, pants: vintage, sunglasses: linda farrow, bag: vintageright sofia top: neiman marcus

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Take your comfiest sleepwear out of the bedroom and into the streets.BY KAYLA ISAACS

Pajamas in public—an idea once scoffed at—is shaking up street style, turning silks and cottons into a sunlight staple. “More than ever

people want to look effortless while being comfortable in luxurious fabrics,” says Goldie Rush, an image consultant in New York City. Take a cue from three designers doing it right.

The Matching Duo: Choosing a straightforward approach, Thakoon screams pajamas with a sky blue, stiff set. Lined with red piping, the no-button blouse tucked into capris hangs loose, hinting at sex appeal with skin-showing V-necks. To duplicate this head-to-toe take, find a silk set that allows for breathing room. Choose a style with a capri bottom to complement pumps or pointed-toe flats.

The Half Set: Balenciaga plays up a silk set with mismatched separates. With a billowing cream tank and loose, tan and white striped cream bottoms, the look removes the scandal of lingerie. “Mix up the pajama pieces with existing clothing items you already own,” says Rush. “For example, wearing a pajama robe like a blazer with jeans and heels is a good way to incorporate the trend.” For this subtly chic take, keep hair and makeup refined to remain daytime appropriate.

The One Piece: Céline embraces sleepwear sensuality with heavy lace inserts atop slinky to-the-knee slips. In white lace and black satin, dresses are presented alone or pared down with trousers and concealing jackets. To make a Céline-like slip work in the a.m., fit is key. The shift should hit at or below knee level and shouldn’t hug the body. “Wear it with everything—heels, Converse, a belt, oversized jewelry—the combinations are endless,” Rush says. To make it casual, pair the dress with a blazer or army jacket and sneakers. For something more mature, keep makeup simple and jewelry minimal.

DAYDREAM

photographed by allen chiumodeled by marie lawrence

shirt: míshi new york,lingerie: allen chiu intimates

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pinterest.com

Zipped takes inspiration from famous films to connect Hollywood’s most iconic looks with this season’s runway

favorites and their ready-to-wear complements.

ON THE REEL

RUNWAY Mugler, vogue.comSHOES Flirting Slippers, $310,

Chiara Ferragni, chiaraferragni.com

FUNNY FACE

RUNWAY Alexander Wang, vogue.com SHIRT Striped Organic Cotton T-shirt,

$22.90, zara.com

dev.virtualearth.net

LÉON THE PROFESSIONAL

wanel

o.co

m

RUNWAY Creatures of Comfort, vogue.com SHORTS Dark Vintage Ashley Boyfriend Shorts, $52.00, MOTO, topshop.com

ALMOST FAMOUS

RUNWAY Elie Saab, vogue.comCLUTCH London Box Clutch $54.22, Chi Chi, asos.com

bfi .o

rg.u

k

TO CATCH A THIEF

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ZIPPED: How did you get your start in the fashion industry?ALIZA LICHT: I started as an accessories intern for Harper’s Bazaar.

Z: How did you come up with the persona of DKNY PR Girl?A: I was inspired by Gossip Girl to be anonymous, but the personality was mine.

Z: How long did it take to gain a significant following?A: It was organic but steady growth. Within two years it had ammassed over 380,000 followers.

Z: Define the power of social media:A: Social media empowers anyone to create a personal brand and network in ways they could have never imagined. The possibilities of who you can connect to are endless.

Z: What are your goals with your new freelance work?A: I want to be eclectic. I love working with companies at the intersection of fashion and technology but I am also working on creative projects inspired by LEAVE YOUR MARK.

Z: Your book Leave Your Mark discusses the importance of branding yourself. What would you say step number one in building your brand should be? A: Ask yourself what you want to stand for, be known for and how you want to be perceived. Then stick to that filter every time you post something.

Z: Biggest lessons you’ve learned from your job at DKNY:A: A job is only as good as the people you work with. I was fortunate to work with some amazing people (starting with Donna Karan and Patti Cohen my boss and mentor) over the course of my 17 year career there. When they left the company last year, it was game over for me.

Z: What advice would you give a Syracuse University graduate looking to go into the fashion industry?A: Value your network. The fashion industry is small and your reputation doesn’t follow you everywhere, it arrives before you do.

FAVORITE DESIGNERI can’t possibly pick. I love fashion too much!

FAVORITE CURRENT TRENDI don’t buy into trends. I always wear what feels right to me.

WARDROBE ESSENTIALSThe perfect little black cape, skinny pant and platform high heels that you can wear all day.

FAVORITE VINTAGE PIECEI don’t do vintage. I want to be the first to wear anything.

FAVORITE ARTISTMy walls are bare. I have a really hard time with art. It takes too much commitment.

FAVORITE SPOT IN NYCI love hotel bars. You can often find me at The Four Seasons, The Mark and Loews Regency.

FAVORITE PART OF THE JOBThe creativity of it.

q+awith Aliza Licht

Aliza Licht, former personality behind DKNY PR Girl, brought the Donna Karan New York brand to fame with her renowned Twitter presence. Becoming one of fashion’s most influential, Licht now runs Leave Your Mark, a strategic advisory company, and recently debuted her first novel. Licht chatted with Zipped to dish on all her favorites and share her top advice for students.

BY ZOË MALLIAROS

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SPRING 2016