zipped spring 2012
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Syracuse University's only campus fashion magazine.TRANSCRIPT
ZIPPEDSPRING 2012
EDITORIALChristina Decker Editor-In-Chief
Ashley CollmanManaging Editor
Emilia WojdylakCreative Director
Kelly BucciFeatures Editor
Rachel TipovskiAssociate Features Editor
Danielle EmigResearch Editor
Dana Rose Falcone Copy Editor
PHOTO & DESIGNAngela LaurelloArt Director
Taylor MillerPhoto Director
Sarah KinslowAssociate Photo Director
BUSINESS &COMMUNICATIONS
Elise BalabanPublisherCassandra DavidMarketing DirectorJessica LaurelloAdvertising DirectorZach WeissDirector of Public RelationsKalyn ConleyAssociate Director of Public RelationsLindsay CameronAssistant Director of Public RelationsCiara Schoenauer Colleen CummingsSocial Media Representatives
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SPRING 2012 ZIPPED
FACULTY ADVISORMelissa Chessher
SPECIAL THANKS: Jim ShahinHarriet BrownEllie Mia Boutique, South Crouse Avenue at Marshall St. Modern Pop Culture, Armory Square
briefs4 INTERN ESSENTIALSGear-up with these necessities and you'll no doubt be a stand-out intern this summer.
features6 TRAPPED IN THE CLOSET The untold horror stories of what it's really like to be at the bottom of the food chain as a fashion intern.
8 HEAVY METALBalance out the ethereal styles of spring with dramatic, metallic accessories.
12 THE SOUND OF STYLEFashion is taking the main stage at Coachella 14 AMERICAN SPIRITDine and dash in leather and blue jeans, and channel your inner James Dean or Lana Del Rey.
endings22 SLEEPING WITH THE ENEMYFind out how new media is affecting advertising in fashion magazines.
22 NAILED ITNail art doesn't require the work of an artist. Try out these six playful looks —we did them ourselves!
ISSUE 10 |ZIPPED MAGAZINE
EDITORIALChristina Decker Editor-In-Chief
Ashley CollmanManaging Editor
Emilia WojdylakCreative Director
Kelly BucciFeatures Editor
Rachel TipovskiAssociate Features Editor
Danielle EmigResearch Editor
Dana Rose Falcone Copy Editor
PHOTO & DESIGNAngela LaurelloArt Director
Taylor MillerPhoto Director
Sarah KinslowAssociate Photo Director
BUSINESS &COMMUNICATIONS
Elise BalabanPublisherCassandra DavidMarketing DirectorJessica LaurelloAdvertising DirectorZach WeissDirector of Public RelationsKalyn ConleyAssociate Director of Public RelationsLindsay CameronAssistant Director of Public RelationsCiara Schoenauer Colleen CummingsSocial Media Representatives
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Just because you don’t strut down Fifth Avenue every day or count 90210 in your address doesn’t mean fashion has no place in your life. Perhaps like me, you didn’t come to Syracuse University from a glitzy fashion-centric city, but instead have small-town USA to call home. Often when I tell people where I’m from I’m met with looks of shock, followed by some version of “Oh my gosh you don’t look it at all!”
Fashion lived far from my town—55 miles to be exact, as that was where the nearest shopping mall could be found. But those 55 miles feel like light years when you’re surrounded by people who can’t tell the difference between the iconic Burberry plaid and the flannel shirts sold at the Tractor Supply store.
Every Friday night my friends and I would pile into cars and caravan out into the woods to party Dazed and Confused style with blazing bonfires and mud puddles as our backdrop. Out in these parts, my Hunter rain boots were far from the style symbol they are here on campus. Out there where you’d come home from smelling like smoked jerky, Hunters were the definition of practicality.
Yet every day it took me nearly thirty minutes to
LETTERfrom the editor}{
get dressed for school. I’d try on at least five different outfits, discarded ones strewn all over my bedroom floor, as my brother, whom I repeatedly made late for homeroom, stood nearby threatening to wring my neck. “You’re not going to a fashion show, Christina,” my dad would tell me, which would only make me more flustered. Eventually I always ended up wearing the first outfit I had started with. Maybe I didn’t have anywhere special to be, but that didn’t matter. I wasn’t trying to impress anyone; I was doing it for myself.
Just because you live in a place where no one else cares, or perhaps what you like isn’t “on trend" at the moment, doesn’t mean you have to sacrifice who you are. Style should make you feel good about yourself first and foremost, so forget about everything else and have a little fun with fashion.
As my mom always told me, if you look good, you feel good and that’s the most important thing.
Enjoy!
Christina
SPECIAL THANKS TO:
Gem832 SPENCER STSYRACUSE, NY 13204315.422.1686
HOURS:TUESDAY-SUNDAY6AM-10PMCLOSED ON MONDAY
the
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This summer you're going to be racking up a lot of hours on the job, so make sure you have a bag big enough to pack all your daily needs. A messenger bag in a striking neon hue is the perfect fit to compartmentalize your life, while looking stylish and professional at the same time. CambridgeSatchelCo.co.uk; @CamSatchelCo
1CAMEBRIDGE SATCHEL
ESSENTIALSOn muggy summer days, an unexpected storm can strike at any moment, but the intern on a mission has no time for rain delays. Be prepared and keep yourself armed with an umbrella at all times. Choose one in a cheerful color or punchy print to brighten up your mood even when the weather takes an ugly turn. Target.com; @Twitter
2UMBRELLA
Whether you’re trekking across the city for a pickup, around the block for coffee, or standing in the fashion closet, odds are your intern tasks will have you on your feet all day. While heels may seem like a staple to looking professional, every smart intern knows that a cute pair of flats is her key to survival. If you absolutely can’t part with your heels, invest in a pair of flats that can easily be rolled up and tucked away into your purse for a mid-day wardrobe change. toryburch.com; @toryburch
3BALLET FLATS
7CARDIGANGlobal warming means you need to monitor the weather as often as your boss’ mood—on an hourly basis. Expect the unexpected. Always pack an additional layer, like this simple and sweet, pink cardigan from J.Crew. Even if the forecast seems promising of warm weather, you should never underestimate the power of AC. JCrew.com; @JCrew_Insider
5SANITIZER WIPESCommuting on public transportation and running errands all around the city makes being an intern a dirty job. Battle viruses by keeping a small pack of hand sanitizing wipes in your purse for a quick clean fix. Pretty packaging like these motif wipes is an added bonus!Motifliving.com; http://www.facebook.com/motifliving
6WATER BOTTLEDon’t get into the daily habit of buying a water bottle from the company vending machine. Instead save money and the environment, all while staying hydrated with your own personal water bottle. Look for one with a filter to siphon out all the nasty stuff from the tap and ensure happy taste buds. waterbobble.com; @waterbobble
4HEADPHONESDon’t leave your apartment without a pair of headphones. You’ll need something to drone out the crazies on the subway. Forget boring ear buds and opt for an over-the-ear pair in a bright summer color, like these from Urbanears. They might be pricy for an intern’s budget, but their quality is well worth the investment. Urbanears.com; @Urbanears
8NOTEBOOKDon’t make the fatal mistake of writing down your boss’s lunch order on a post-it, losing said post-it, and getting their PB&J sandwich wrong (there is a difference between toasted and non-toasted). A small and stylish notebook is the way to go so that you can whip it out at a moments notice to take down direction, sparing yourself the embarrassment of getting something wrong or having to ask twice. ArchieGrand.com; @ArchieGrandTW
EVERYTHING YOU’LL NEED TO SURVIVE YOUR SUMMER INTERNSHIP
internship
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ZIPPED PICKS
PHOTOGRAPHER: SARAH KINSLOWSTYLISTS: ANGELA LAURELLO AND CHRISTINA DECKER
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FORGET THE GLITZ AND THE GLAM—HERE’S THE TRUTH ABOUT FASHION CLOSET INTERNSHIPSBy Shanice Maxwell
When Debbie Lechtman, a junior magazine
journalism major, interned in the More
magazine fashion closet last summer,
she knew that the job would be hard, but
nothing could prepare her for the reality
she was about to experience. “I knew the days would be long,
but some days I was there from 9 to 1:45 in the morning,” she
says. Her anal boss and the crazy hours made her re-evaluate
what direction she wanted to go within the industry.
For Xuedan Wang, the fashion closet internship she
landed at Harper's Bazaar was unforgettable. It left such an
impression on her that she filed a lawsuit against the Hearst
Corporation for ill-treatment. Wang claimed her internship
“violated federal and state wage and
hour laws by not paying her though
she often worked there full time," a
New York Times article stated.
The growing culture of
mistreating interns is not new.
While no fashion closet interns from
SU have sued yet, several students
had internships that were grueling
and far from glamorous.
Jeniffer Amparo, a senior dual
economics and communications
and rhetorical studies major, found
her time at W magazine to be an
exhausting and physical nightmare. “I
did a pick up for Prada and the things
probably weighed as much as I did. I came back with bruises
and I’m sure no one who is getting paid is doing that,” she says.
Mohammad Diallo, a junior fashion design student,
interned at Self, Lucky, and Nylon magazines. Of these three,
Nylon was the most difficult. “Interns were yelled and barked
at a lot of the time,” he says. “They didn’t even call us interns,
they called us kids.” To make matters worse, he once had to
walk the editor-in-chief’s dog and pick up his “poo”.
Gregory Miller, SU grad and current New York Post
features assistant, interned at Lucky, Self, and T magazines
and loathed his entire closet experience. Lucky was the
worst he says – his duties were “pure bitch work.”
Miller was forced to deal with a boss who was “lazy and
condescending.” Some daily activities included filing his boss’ nails,
and spending hours searching for missing items. He once spent a
week looking all around the office for a missing pair of Louboutins,
and it turned out the editor had taken them to wear at an event.
“They don’t treat interns like real people. It’s kind of a joke.
You take the internship and you think you’re going to learn, but
you don’t learn shit. It’s just free labor,” he says.
Mark Obbie, SU associate professor of magazine journalism
and former executive editor at The American Lawyer, was once in
charge of hiring interns for his magazine. The interns he hired
did the same work as assistant editors. Fashion closet interns, he
believes, are in a whole other category. “There’s
one kind of intern that often is surprised at
the nature of the work and that’s fashion closet
interns,” he says. “For some people, it’s a real
letdown because they pictured themselves
going on photo shoots and writing about
fashion and interviewing designers, and they
don’t get any of that at most places.”
Aileen Gallagher, assistant magazine
professor and former senior editor for New
York magazine's website who edited fashion
week coverage, found that a big part of the
problem is “sometimes interns feel that their
role is bigger than it is, so they feel as though
they’re being condescended to by an editor
when really they might not be on the editor’s
radar.” Still she disapproves of interns being overworked,
yelled at, or only being assigned menial tasks. She believes
there should be a balance. If an intern spends hours calling
stores about clothes, they should also get a chance to observe
the photo shoot.
Janelle Grimmond, former fashion editor at VIBE and Essence
magazines, was responsible for hiring and managing interns
at VIBE. In her experience, fashion closet interns would think
they’d be doing fabulous things even though in their interview
they were told otherwise. She credits reality TV shows, such as
The Hills, with the skewed perception many students have of what
TRAPPED IN TH
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YOU TAKE THE INTERNSHIP AND
YOU THINK YOU’RE GOING TO LEARN,
BUT YOU DON’T LEARN SHIT. IT’S
JUST FREE LABOR.
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it’s like to do certain jobs in the industry. “Don’t believe
everything you see – you have to put in work to be
noticed and respected,” she says. “If you want to be the
next Anna Wintour, you have to put in work. I know it
sounds harsh, but if you don’t want to do the work, guess
what, someone else will.”
Fashion interns are more likely to do administrative work,
not journalism, says Obbie. In recent years, more magazines
are requiring students to obtain internship credit, which gives
students the notion that their experience will be educational.
In reality, this only adds fuel to the fire because supervisors
can justify delegating degrading, menial tasks because interns
are being “compensated” for their work with college credit.
College creates a financial dilemma for a vast majority
of students and paying for internship credit only adds to
that burden. “My parents didn’t go to college, I don’t have
money…I paid my way through everything and requiring
credit is not helpful,” Miller says. “It’s really, really backwards
that SU makes you pay for it, and I’m still really bitter.”
A mix of professors and editors shared similar
sentiments. “I think it’s a scam,” Obbie says. “I think this
university needs to do its part and help solve the problem.”
“It’s ridiculous,” Gallagher adds. “You have to pay
money to go work for someone else for free. I never
understood that.” To Grimmond, “It shuts out a lot of great
people with potential if they’re not in school.”
Scary as these students’ accounts may seem, don't let
them discourage you from interning. Summer internships
are not so much about what you do, but who you meet, and
the work experience you can add to your resume. Terrence
Phearse, style writer at Essence and The Huffington Post,
advises students not to go into their internships scared or
with preconceived notions. Instead they should keep an
open mind, do their best work, and build a solid rapport.
“Fashion closet interns are the thread that hold the magazine
together,” he says. “A magazine wouldn’t run without them.”
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metal
HaveyGO BOLD THIS SPRING WITH METALLIC ACCESSORIES TO CREATE AN UNEXPECTED LOOKPHOTOGRAPHER: TAYLOR MILLER
STYLIST: MAXI ROBERTS
MAKEUP ARTIST: ANNIE ZHANG
MODEL: OLIVIA RHINEHART
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On Olivia Dress and cuffs, asos.com; necklace, Urban Outfitters;
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Left hand, rings, vintage;Right hand, rings, made by Maxi Britt Roberts
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Lace blouse, vintage; necklace, asos.com;ring, vintage
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On a now-famous weekend in the summer of ’69, half-a-million people gathered on a 600-acre farm in Bethel, N.Y. to watch 32 artists perform at the Woodstock Music & Art Fair. For four days,
these pilgrims took part in what became one of the most iconic moments of rock history. This festival represented the counterculture of the 60s—the carefree, peaceful hippies who opposed the Vietnam War and came together to love one another and celebrate life. Wearing tie-dye, an American flag, or blue jeans, served as both a political and a fashion symbol. Although the modern day music festival involves a little less nudity, sex, and blatant drug use, it retains an important aspect: fashion. Similar to the hippies in 1969, music festival attendees today use fashion as a means to express themselves and show off their unique style and personality.
These days, the fashion and music minded commune at Coachella, which takes place in Indio, C.A., about a two-hour drive from Los Angeles. Unlike the practically free admission into Woodstock, Coachella tickets cost in the ballpark of $600, shaping the type of people who attend. Luckily for the fashion
industry, attendees are an ideal demographic, says Linlee Allen, a public relations consultant and writer, who shot Coachella fashion in 2009 for Style.com. “The people who are attending and spending that kind of money are obviously the kind of people that can afford to drop $400 on a pair of amazing sunglasses. They’re a fashion demographic.” This mass amount of big spenders is the perfect place to forecast trends, Allen adds. “It’s like a big ball of inspiration.”
Unlike other music festivals in small towns in Middle America, Coachella’s proximity to Hollywood makes the fashion element just as important as the music itself. Festivals such as the Pitchfork Festival in Chicago, South by Southwest in Austin, or Bonnaroo in Manchester, Tenn., are not focused around fashion since there isn’t a strong fashion industry in these types of places, notes Nik Mercer, senior editor at Anthem, an online independent lifestyle magazine that focuses heavily on music and fashion. “There’s still a pretty heavy focus on the actual integrity of the music and the lineup,” he says of those music festivals located in smaller, less glamorous cities.
Over the past few years, Coachella has expanded and started to include more mainstream acts that appeal to a greater number of potential attendees.
the
OF STYLEHOW A MUSIC FESTIVAL IN THE MIDDLE OF A CALIFORNIAN DESERT IS BECOMING THE NEW FASHION MECCABy Amy Marturana
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This, Mercer notes, made fashion’s role grow. “When you work with bigger acts, you’re working with showier people. So fashion becomes more a part of the presentation of the show,” he says. Mercer has attended Coachella five times, and he notes that brands use the festival as an effective marketing tool, since it puts their products in front of thousands of people. “For any label or brand to have success, you have to get that stuff in front of a whole lot of eyeballs,” he says. And a hip, trendy, humongous event like Coachella is the perfect arena. “With the red carpet thing, it’s the same sort of agenda—you want to get people dressed in pretty clothes so that they can get photographed.”
But that doesn’t mean Coachella fashion is comparable to what celebrities flaunt on the red carpet.
Walking around all day in the middle of the desert, with temperatures often reaching 90 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit, festivalgoers must dress practically. “You have to make sure you’re able to breathe and that your body’s breathing without perspiring too much,” Allen says. “Eyewear is fabulous out in Coachella, and hats, umbrellas, sarongs, turbans, headpieces, and headbands.” This makes it an amazing event to forecast accessory trends, she adds. Gladiator sandals and shoulder bags are also common pieces people wear, and again tie back to the main concern of comfort.
Coachella’s close proximity to L.A. and Hollywood makes it a festival that celebrities frequent, since it isn’t much of a commitment for them to show up, Mercer says. At the festival last year, celebrities such as Vanessa Hudgens, Ashley Greene, Katy Perry, and Alexa Chung, all showed up in their cut-off jean shorts, knitted and cropped tanks, and flowy bohemian dresses. Different from the perfectly tailored couture gowns and stilettos they sport at red carpet events, stars at Coachella follow the same trends as any other festivalgoers, and opt for comfortable, airy outfits.
For street style photographers, festivals provide endless variations of style and expression, from both celebrities and the average attendee. Since photographers also have their own styles, different things may catch their eyes. Allen, for example, is attracted to bright colors and bold fashions. “I like something that really stands out and reflects not only the expression and the creativity of the wearer, something a bit ballsy, something that’s a little bit different,” she says. Allen likes to observe the scene and
THIS MASS AMOUNT OF BIG SPENDERS IS THE PERFECT PLACE TO FORECAST TRENDS. IT’S
LIKE A BIG BALL OF INSPIRATION.
the people around her before she decides to approach and photograph someone. “Their clothing needs to be in sync with how they’re feeling as they’re walking around. It’s how they carry themselves,” she says.
Hannah Greenblatt, senior anthropology and Italian major at Syracuse University, has attended Coachella four times and has seen firsthand how street style can turn into a major trend. She remembers
seeing white Wayfarer Ray Bans at the festival right before they became hugely popular. “Same with headbands, and crop tops, and Levi jean cut-offs,” she adds. “All of that I personally saw take off at Coachella.” Greenblatt has also attended Glastonbury,
a music festival in Somerset, England, which she notes is significantly bigger than Coachella. Attendees camp out on a farm in the middle of the countryside. “That’s where there was a picture of Kate Moss in US Weekly wearing shorts and rain boots covered in mud. And then that’s when Hunter boots took off,” Greenblatt recalls.
It’s this combination of street style and fashion industry publicity that transformed Coachella from a typical music festival into a highly anticipated fashion showcase. The two aspects work hand in hand, and for Allen, the most intriguing part of photographing personalities at music festivals is seeing which artists they were there for, especially when the answer goes against what she assumed from their clothing choices. “Most photographers ask ‘Who were you most excited to hear today?’ And more often than not, they’re not necessarily the people you thought would listen to that specific band or that group. I think its interesting teaming up the music style with the fashion,” she says.
This marriage of music, style, and fashion shows how the two forms of expression continue to become even more intertwined. “Fashion and music totally go together,” Allen says, just like any form of art. “They’re fabulous together, and they’re cross-pollinating at a really rapid rate these days.” And although fashion today might not symbolize a powerful, anti-war counterculture like it did at Woodstock, its connection to music and personal expression remains as strong as ever.
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Cover Look:Andrew: jeans, BullheadEsther: shorts, Modern Pop Culture
Brianna: shirt (worn as dress), H&M; jacket, Levi's from Urban Outfitters; necklace, vintage; shoes, MelissaAndrew: shirt, Express Men; tie, Ralph Lauren Black Label; jacket, Excelled; jeans, Bullhead; belt, Dockers; shoes, Timberland
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Get caught in a denim daze this season with all-American looks that are equal
parts retro and grunge
PHOTOGRAPHER: TAYLOR MILLER
STYLISTS: MAXI ROBERTS AND ALEXA
SANTOS
MAKEUP ARTIST: EMILY BARNES
MODELS: ESTHER KIM, ANDREW
CARLSON,
AND BRIANNA NOLAN
PHOTOGRAPHED AT THE GEM DINER
AmericanSPIRIT
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LOVE THE RED LIPS THROUGHOUT THE SHOOT?
IT'S REVLON "WINE WITH EVERYTHING".
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Esther: tank, H&M; jeans, vintage Levi's; belt, J.Crew; shoes, Melissa; necklaces, H&M; scarf in hair, Marc by Marc JacobsBrianna: chambray shirt, J.Crew; shorts, Modern Pop Culture; sneakers, ConverseAndrew: tshirt, J.Crew
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Esther: Top, H&M; Shorts, Urban Outfitters; belt, vintage; sneakers, Converse; necklace, vintage; sun-glasses, vintageBrianna: chambray shirt, Ladakh; scarf worn as bandeau, vintage; shorts, Joe's Jeans; belt, J.Crew; shoes, Melissa; sunglasses, vintage
Andrew: jeans, Bullhead; tshirt, J.CrewEsther: tank, H&M; belt, J.Crew; shorts, Modern Pop Culture; necklaces, H&M; sunglasses, H&M; leather jacket,vintage
Esther: vest, vintage Calvin Klein; shorts, H&M; shoes, Jeffrey Campbell; sunglasses, H&MAndrew: tshirt, J.Crew; jeans, Bullhead; Dog Tag, photographer's own
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A LOOK AT THE SURPRISINGLY INTIMATE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN FASHION MAGAZINES AND THEIR ADVERTISERSBy Allison Mariotti
WITH THE ENEMY
January Jones, known for playing Betty Draper on Mad Men, poses seductively in W ’s May 2011 issue. In the editorial, she wears Versace sunglasses, aptly named the January J sunglasses. Jones also appears in the Spring 2011 Versace campaign wearing the same sunglasses. We like to think that fashion editors choose the clothes, shoes, and accessories featured in their magazine
because they actually like them, but advertisers have a lot of influence over what shows up in editorial. Charlotte Cowles noted on New York magazine’s fashion blog, "The Cut", that “When a brand buys ads in a fashion magazine, they’re basically securing editorial coverage too—a big advertiser is far more likely to have their clothes featured in a fashion spread or their lipstick in a roundup of new spring colors.”
Megan Murphy, a senior advertising major in the fashion communications milestone, knows that there is a fine line between advertising and editorial in fashion magazines. “I’ve noticed from reading magazines that if a celebrity is on the cover, she also promotes a product, and there are many ads for that product in the magazine. She is also featured in the editorial with the product she promotes.” January Jones in W is just one example of many, as the division between advertising and editorial becomes increasingly blurry.
Harriet Brown, a magazine journalism professor, thinks the pressure for advertorial content is greater than ever before. “I think the best practice would be
disclosing,” she says. “It doesn’t mean there’s something wrong, it's not an admission of guilt or negativity, because let's face it, there’s a relatively small pool of designers and your advertisers are going to pop up in your editorial.”
Allure magazine follows the method of disclosing when a celebrity is a brand sponsor. In the January 2012 issue, Leighton Meester recommends an Herbal Essences shampoo. In parentheses beside it, Allure states “Leighton is a product spokesperson for Herbal Essences.”
Advertising professor Kevin O’Neil sees the inclusion of advertisers in editorial content as inevitable, and not necessarily bad. “Brands often, if not always, have things going on that are newsworthy, or are part of a trend that editorial people relentlessly cover,” O’Neil says.
The American Society of Magazine Editors has guidelines for advertising ethics in magazines. One of these guidelines states, “Publishers should not accept payment from advertisers to place or promote products in editorial content,” but magazines have found ways to generate revenue from the products they promote through other means.
InStyle magazine has expanded its reach to e-commerce as well as the print magazine. They launched StyleFind.com in November 2010 as a search engine for readers looking for clothing, accessories, and beauty products. A click on a product would direct you to the retailer’s website, and InStyle would take a cut of the profit. StyleFind.com has since shut down, as Time Inc. is moving to integrate e-commerce into InStyle and People’s main websites.
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Vogue has a partnership with e-commerce site Moda Operandi, which was co-founded by former Vogue contributing editor Lauren Santo Domingo. On Vogue’s website, editors feature their “Shop the Look” picks. Clicking on a celebrity look will direct you to Moda Operandi’s site where you can purchase what the celebrity is wearing. As with InStyle, Vogue receives a commission for sales made.
“I think it’s horrible,” Brown says of magazines partnering with e-commerce sites. “I think that crosses the line. The whole business model is changing, but I think that’s a really bad road to go down.”
While Brown finds it unethical that magazines are receiving profit for the products they review, Murphy sees it as necessary in our capitalist society, “Being able to share things is a good thing, but everything is monetized now, which is what makes that sharing valuable.”
The relationship between advertising and fashion magazines is changing, as brands are focusing their promotion efforts away from magazines. Almost every fashion brand has its own blog. Free People, a retail branch of Urban Outfitters, has a blog on its website that features new music artists they love, fan style photos, and ways to style Free People clothing. Brands are also creating their own magazines, with original content featuring their products. British retailer ASOS has a magazine, which is also offered on the iPad. The magazine features interviews with celebrities and editorials featuring ASOS clothing. So, to entice brands back to magazine advertising, fashion magazines are allowing advertisers to have a say on what is in the editorial.
Murphy sees the benefits of brands producing their own promotion materials, but also sees a down side. “It is less expensive than putting an ad in a national magazine, but the down side is that you’re not attracting customers who are maybe not a part of your brand already.” Murphy says.
“The consumer is much more likely to engage with independent editorial content than with conventional, purely product-focused advertising,” says BLK DNM
marketing director Max Vallot in a New York Times article.
While this new way of advertising may be good for the brand, the issue lies in the ethics. Brown sees these brand magazines as a way of making a catalog seem more editorial, but that they are still simply catalogs. “I think its problematic,” Brown says. “First of all, a lot of people don’t know the difference between magazines and catalogs, so they might not realize when they're
looking at something that looks like a magazine, that reads like a magazine, they might not pick up on the fact that it is published by this company and everything they’re featuring is made by this company,” she says.
All these changes in magazine advertising can be traced back to the rise of digital media, as advertisers take their money elsewhere away from traditional print magazines. Magazines are then left hurting for revenue. “There’s a lot more pressure from publishers on the editorial staff. There’s a lot more pressure on the bottom line,” Brown says.
As new forms of digital media continue to pop up, creating additional platforms for advertising, the competition will only increase for print magazines to keep their advertisers and continue publishing.
When a brand buys ads in a
fashion magazine, they’re basically
securing editorial coverage too
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itNA
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LET YOUR FINGERTIPS BE YOUR ACCESSORY THIS SPRING
For more nail ideas check out the blog “miss ladyfinger” where creator Taryn Multack, SU
alum and past Zipped contributor, transforms runway looks into fashionable nail art.
missladyfinger.com; @MissLadyfinger
PHOTOGRAPHER: TAYLOR MILLER
NAIL ARTIST: ESTHER GUTOW
MODELS: ETHAN PARISEN, ESTHER KIM,
ASHLEY COLLMAN, AND HELIN LEE
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