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101820 TWS Fine Wines_Jan 2017.indd 2 15/12/2016 15:45

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FRESH THOUGHTS ON FINE WINE

BORDEAUX: PLEASURES OF THE RIGHT BANK 3

A leisurely meander through the merlot-rich communes of Pomerol and Saint-Emilion, in the company of six delectable wines selected by Head of Buying Tim Sykes. Look no further for smart buys, from rising star to grand cru, to replenish depleted claret stocks.

WHITE BURGUNDY: APPROCHABLE AND AFFORDABLE 4

Instant gratification from the 2014 vintage, which is already delivering pure pleasure. Our rippling six-pack combines jaw-dropping value from the Mâconnais with clever finds from the Côte d’Or to keep faith with the January budget.

CRU BEAUJOLAIS: SERIOUSLY CHARMING 5

The charm of 2014 is also apparent in Beaujolais, and the mouthwateringly fresh feel that underpins the juiciness of perfectly ripened gamay grapes. These are wines that have not only immediate appeal but time in hand to evolve. We focus on Fleurie, the most engaging of the ten crus, and longer-lived Moulin-à-Vent and Morgon, sourced from the likes of Jean-Marc Burgaud, Louis Boillot and Frédéric Burrier.

THE ROUSSILLON: DOMAINE GAUBY, CALCE 6

Gérard Gauby calls his Calcinaires bottlings his ‘village’ wines, much as a prime grower in Puligny-Montrachet might, to describe a wine less grand than premier cru but one that wholly transcends the term ‘entry-level’. The comparison is not a spurious one. Gauby’s is one of the great domaines of the Roussillon, and of France. His ’grand cru’ and one or two of his premiers are also included here.

THE SUD-OUEST: RAMONTEU AND BRUMONT 8

Despite our long-standing passion for them at The Society, Jurançon and Madiran remain an inexplicably dark corner of France. Henri Ramonteu of Domaine Cauhapé and Alain Brumont of Château Montus illuminate it with aromatic whites, thought-provoking reds and luscious sweet wines.

SMALL WONDERS: FINE WINES AT £20 AND UNDER 10

An invigorating crop to restore the palate and gladden the heart, including scrumptious sauvignons, curiosities from Italy and a mouthwatering and gastronomic rosé. Members resolved to embrace a bit of adventure in 2017 should start here.

SOUTH AFRICA: MILES MOSSOP ‘MAX’, STELLENBOSCH 13

Even if young Max Mossop wants to be a train driver instead of following in the footsteps of his father Miles, and grandfather Tony, his place in wine is assured on the label of this stylish and highly regarded Bordelais blend from Stellenbosch. We have six ages of Max on offer, to drink and to keep.

ITALY: HIDDEN GHEMME – AND GATTINARA 14

Tucked away in the foothills of the Alps, the ‘two Gs’ of Piemonte live in the shadow of its more famous Bs, Barolo and Barbaresco. Yet this can be nebbiolo to relish. After a long search and a lot of tasting, Sebastian Payne MW has found something special, in the fine family estate of Torraccia del Piantavigna, whose archives have been tapped for a rare opportunity to sample ten-year-old wines.

NEW ZEALAND: MOUTERE AND MATÉ 16

No need for two of New Zealand’s greatest vineyards to go head to head. Complementing each other perfectly are fine pinot noir from Neudorf in Nelson and Kumeu’s flagship chardonnay from the Auckland plot that bears the name of its founder, Maté Brajkovich. Just to introduce a little mischief, a new pinot noir from Kumeu lays down the gauntlet.

GERMANY: WEINGUT DÖNNHOFF, NAHE 17

A rare opportunity to get Helmut Dönnhoff ’s fragrant and mouthwatering 2014 rieslings into your cellar, though we predict they won’t make it that far because they are hard to resist now. They can wait if you can, but don’t wait too long to order them.

THE DOURO: QUINTA DO PASSADOURO 18

The rise and rise of Douro reds, going from Port spin-off to assured table wine, brings welcome variety to the classical grapescape, as well as opening a new page on the dining menu from spice-roasted lamb to baked fish with herb crusts. They are also peerless with cheese (it’s in their DNA, remember). This smart young estate does the honours.

Our first crop of 2017 is a gentle introduction to a new year of fine wine appreciation. Value for money calls for some lateral thinking, but no big leaps of faith are required. For the grands crus and prestigious cuveés of the old world, read those of the new. For red Burgundy, consider cru Beaujolais from the scrumptious 2014 vintage. Lighten up on the Port and try the Douro’s table reds and, for depleted Barolo and Barbaresco racks, discover the hidden Piemontese treasures of Ghemme and Gattinara, and how beautifully they mature. Some effortless exploration in the South of France and our usual clutch of Small Wonders should make for a Happy New Year. Janet Wynne Evans, Fine Wine Editor

How to use this Listl Wines are listed by theme and then by pricel Drink dates are given as a guide to maturity and ageing

potentiall For further information about any of the wines please contact

Member Services on 01438 741177 l Fine wines too limited in quantity to be listed may be

found in the fine wine section of The Society’s website at thewinesociety.com/finewine

Fine Wine Advisers – here to helpPlease contact the Fine Wine Advisers for help with wine selection, food matching and any other wine-related subject. Visit thewinesociety.com/advice or call 01438 741177 to find out more.

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BORDEAUXPLEASURES OF THE RIGHT BANK Saint-Emilion and Pomerol, the two best-known appellations on the right bank of the Gironde, are near-neighbours but there are some notable differences between the two. Pomerol is the smallest of the principal Bordeaux appellations (around 800 hectares) and the first to ripen its grapes – Saint-Emilion is the largest major appellation in Bordeaux (close to 5,500 hectares) and one of the last to be harvested. Soils in Saint-Emilion are predominantly limestone/clay, with Pomerol tending towards clay/gravel.

Despite being home to some of Bordeaux’s most expensive wines, Pomerol is the only major appellation that has no classed growths, whilst Saint-Emilion has one of the most complex (dare I say confusing?) of cassification systems.

At The Wine Society, we focus less on designation than on drinking pleasure and this is precisely what unites these two appellations. Both produce wines of distinction and generosity, predominantly from merlot, often with cabernet franc in the blend to add depth and freshness to the wines. Below, I have specially selected three wines from each commune, matured in our Stevenage cellars and now ready to drink, to demonstrate the effortless enjoyment that defines the right bank. Tim Sykes

E-CS7921 Château Puy-Blanquet, Saint-Emilion 2010 £19 bottle £228 dozen

From a 20-hectare property in the commune of Saint-Etienne de Lisse, this is 75% merlot with striking fragrant bouquet, plenty of ‘flesh’ in the middle palate and a touch of grip on the finish. Now to 2020. 14%

E-CS9761 Château de Valois, Pomerol 2012 £22 bottle £264 dozen

A traditional Pomerol from a small property with a burgeoning reputation. The wine, a blend of 78% merlot, 19% cabernet franc and 3% cabernet sauvignon, displays a cedary nose with a touch of spice after maturation for some 15 months in one-third new barrels. On the palate the wine is refined and well balanced, and will reach its peak in another year or so, but is approachable now if decanted. Now to 2024. 13.5%

E-CS9731 Château Moulinet-Lasserre, Pomerol 2011 £25 bottle £300 dozen

An attractive, beautifully balanced Pomerol made in a traditional style with gravelly merlot perfume and fruit, fine-grained tannins and a long finish. The wine, like many 2011s, is starting to hit its straps, although there is no hurry to drink it. Now to 2022. 13.5%

E-CS7541 Château Berliquet, Saint-Emilon 2009 £29 bottle £348 dozen

A creamy, stylish, well-balanced Saint-Emilion grand cru, which represents extremely good value for its quality. The well placed nine-hectare estate, adjacent to Canon and Beauséjour-Bécot, was restored to its full potential a decade ago by its owner Vicomte Patrick de Lesquen, assisted by winemaker Patrick Valette, a scion of Pavie. The 2009 was made by Nicolas Thienpont, much respected winemaker of Larcis-Ducasse. Now to 2030. 14%

E-CS8291 Château Fonroque, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 2010 £29 bottle £348 dozen Owned by Alain Moueix, who also owns Château Mazeyres, this 17.5-hectare property

on the end of the Saint-Emilion plateau made a superb wine in 2010. Predominantly merlot, with 15% cabernet franc, the wine is sweet, perfumed with plenty of depth and concentration. Tannins are silky and the fruit supple. Classy Saint-Emilion from a top vintage. Now to 2025. 14.5%

E-CS7691 Château La Pointe, Pomerol 2009 £35 bottle £420 dozen This neighbour of Château Le Gay is run by the dynamic and very talented winemaker

Eric Monneret, with Angélus’ Hubert de Boüard as consultant. It has 23 hectares of vines planted to 75% merlot and 25% cabernet franc and produces full-flavoured claret of immense charm and lovely fragrance. A great success in this vintage, and one of the best this property has made. Now to 2025. 14%

THE RIGHT BANK CLARET CASE £159Drink or store to 2020

A six-bottle case containing one bottle of each of the six wines above.

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2014 WHITE BURGUNDY2014 is the best white Burgundy vintage I have tasted for 20 years. It is ripe, yet fresh, accessible early but able to mature well, with all elements present in joyful harmony. In the Mâconnais, Cordier prune short and make lovely concentrated wines for the price. Situated high up in Vergisson, Saumaize make wines which balance richness with freshness. In the Côte d’Or, Sylvain Pataille and François d’Allaines are delivering excellent value for money. Toby Morrhall

E-BU62411 Domaine Cordier, Viré-Clessé Vieilles Vignes 2014 £13.95 bottle £167 dozen Beautifully balanced white Burgundy from a tiny plot of 60-year-old vines situated near the

church of Viré, and yielding just 30hl/ha. Ripe, yet with lovely balancing acidity and 13% alcohol, with the old vines giving the wine great length of flavour. Matured in 300-litre barrels for 12 months, imparting just a hint of vanilla. Now to 2020. 13%

E-BU62481 Jacques Saumaize, Saint-Véran La Vieille Vigne de Crêches 2014 £14.50 bottle £174 dozen

A bottling of the older vines from the cool Crêches vineyard situated on the broad back of the Roche de Vergisson, and all barrel-fermented with 20% new oak. Fine, long, linear white Burgundy in the elegant Saumaize house style. Now to 2019. 13%

E-BU62471 Jacques Saumaize, Pouilly-Fuissé Vieilles Vignes 2014 £17 bottle £204 dozen From three vineyards over 60 years of age situated in Vergisson and Solutré, and barrel-

fermented with 20% new oak. Perhaps the richest wine in the Saumaize line-up, this is ripe and honeysuckle-scented with a concentrated yet round palate. Now to 2019. 13%

E-BU59921 François d’Allaines, Auxey-Duresses 2014 £18 bottle £216 dozen

François d’Allaines is both grower and ‘micro-négociant’, known for his scrupulous grape sourcing. In his hands, Auxey-Duresses brings to mind a baby Meursault, at a much more digestible price than those of its famous neighbour. This is a clever assemblage of three different complementary parcels, matured for approximately a year in barrel. Broad and rich, yet with good supporting structure. Delicious. Now to 2020. 12.5%

WHITE BURGUNDY AND CRU BEAUJOLAIS2014 UNCORKED



2014 WHITE BURGUNDY CASE £99Drink or store to 2019.

A six-bottle case containing one bottle of each of the above wines.

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2014 CRU BEAUJOLAIS CASE £79Drink or store to 2018.

A six-bottle case containing one bottle of each of the above wines.

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2014 CRU BEAUJOLAISThe 2014 vintage in Beaujolais follows the same style as white Burgundy. A cool summer preserved freshness while a warm autumn brought the wines to an attractive level of ripeness. With the exception of Burgaud’s, the cru Beaujolais offered here were matured in wood to soften tannins and develop flavours but the oak is oldish so no vanilla flavour is ceded to the wine to compete with the lovely, fruity aromas of the gamay grape. Burgaud ages his wines in concrete. Less inert than stainless steel and a little easier to clean than wood, it’s a material which is back in fashion as a maturation option. Toby Morrhall

E-BJ6621 Stéphane Aviron, Domaine de la Madrière, Fleurie La Madone Vieilles £10.95 bottle £131 dozen Vignes 2014 Intense, bright, floral Fleurie from a cool high-altitude site owned by Stéphane Aviron

within the steep La Madone vineyard. It was bottled from a single 50hl foudre, which we thought so outstanding that we bought the lot. Now to 2018. 12.5%

E-BJ6991 Domaine du Moulin d’Eole, Moulin-à-Vent Les Champs de Cour 2014 £11.50 bottle £138 dozen

Made from 40-year-old vines, this is opulent, perfumed Moulin-à-Vent with great length and freshness of flavour, aged for 14 months in five-year-old barrels to concentrate the flavour without adding oak aromas. Now to 2023. 12.5%

E-BJ6691 Domaine Jean-Marc Burgaud, Morgon Côte du Py 2014 £12.95 bottle £155 dozen

The Côte du Py, which lies on schist rather than granite, produces some of the finest and most intensely flavoured Morgons which combine controlled power and minerality in an original way. The overall effect is of intensity and elegance that wears its natural concentration lightly. Jean-Marc Burgaud’s is always one of the best Beaujolais we taste each year. Now to 2022. 13%

E-BJ6761 Château de Beauregard, Fleurie Colonies de Rochegrès 2014 £13.95 bottle £167 dozen

From an outstanding vineyard planted in 1946 and bordering Moulin-à-Vent, this splendid Beaujolais is somewhat plusher and a little spicier than the average Fleurie. Aged in barrel, though no oak flavours are discernible on the nose or palate. Now to 2020. 13%

E-BJ6821 Domaine Louis Boillot, Moulin-à-Vent Vieilles Vignes 2014 £15.50 bottle £186 dozen Louis Boillot’s maiden Beaujolais vintage from four hectares of his own vineyards in

Moulin-à-Vent. The 50–60-year-old vines here have yielded an intense, yet fine Beaujolais with a lovely, silky texture from gentle extraction over three weeks in cuve. The wine is matured half in cuve and half in barrel. Now to 2022. 12.5%

E-BJ6771 Château de Beauregard, Moulin-à-Vent La Salomine 2014 £16 bottle £192 dozen From a plot of 100-year-old gamay on the border with Fleurie and above the famous

Rochegrès slope, this is magical Beaujolais, quite mineral in character and exquisite in its delicacy and finesse. Now to 2022. 13%

E-BU61801 Domaine Pataille, Marsannay Blanc 2014 £19.50 bottle £234 dozen From the Côte d’Or’s northernmost commune, near Dijon, a fine, taut, elegant

chardonnay crafted by the brilliant Sylvain Pataille, whose wines we can’t recommend highly enough. Now to 2019. 13%

E-BU59931 François d’Allaines, Santenay Blanc Les Bras 2014 £20 bottle £240 dozen Santenay, at the southern tip of the Côte de Beaune, is predominantly red-wine country,

but François’ own low-yielding chardonnay vines in the climat of Les Bras have delivered an intense and fine-flavoured white Burgundy, with the benefit of 18 months’ maturation to develop the aromas. Now to 2020. 12.5%



THE ROUSSILLONDOMAINE GAUBY, CALCEGérard and Ghislaine Gauby are united by a shared passion for wine and an unshakeable belief in the potential of their vineyards. These are planted on varied soils, schist, clays or limestone, and many of the vines they inherited were positively ancient, in some cases more than 100 years old. For them, realising all that potential involves natural farming methods, very low yields and minimal interventions in the cellar. Sulphur is little used and sometimes not at all; on the other hand, wines often retain levels of CO2 which means they appear to have a prickle, one that is dissipated with decanting. From their oldest vines, the Gaubys, now aided by their son Lionel, are keen to produce several micro-cuvées which are always fascinating and beautiful. We list some of them here, along with an archive selection of their ‘village’ wines, Les Calcinaires. Marcel Orford-Williams

WHITE E-FC29741 Domaine Gauby, Les Calcinaires Blanc 2015 £14.50 bottle £174 dozen

From a February snowfall in Calce to perfect harvesting conditions, 2015 is an exceptional vintage that saw a crop of ripe, healthy grapes safely in by mid-September. Fresh and floral with notes of white peach, and bone-dry and flinty on the palate, this is quite outstanding. Now to 2020. 12%

E-FC29151 Domaine Gauby, Les Calcinaires Blanc 2014 £14.50 bottle £174 dozen

A capricious vintage, with very high rainfall, both notably in July, that led to a slightly late, but very successful early-October harvest. Alcohols are relatively light, and the fruit very focused and, fresh – ‘disconcertingly drinkable,’ in Gérard’s own words. Now to 2018. 12%

E-FC24041 Domaine Gauby, Les Calcinaires Blanc 2011 £14.95 bottle £179 dozen

An evenly ripe, healthy vintage, untroubled by frosts or hail, and refreshed by a few spring downpours that stood the soil in good stead through a dry summer. Little sorting was required to produce a full-flavoured but entirely elegant Calcinaires to be savoured at the dinner table. Now to 2018. 12%

E-FC23051 Domaine Gauby, Les Calcinaires Blanc 2010 £14.95 bottle £179 dozen Snow in March, rain when needed and a hot, dry summer, refreshed by the Tramontane

and Mediterranean breezes, yielded an even, ripe harvest and wines of finesse and length. This is a glorious, multi-layered white at its peak of perfection, redolent of blossom, white stone-fruit and mountain herbs. Now to 2018. 13%

E-FC24031 Domaine Gauby, La Roque Blanc, Côtes Catalanes 2011 £65 bottle

This is a quite extraordinary wine made from various varieties of muscat, and aged in amphorae as in classical times. Very complex, dry with hints of peach, apricot and lime. Drink this year and next. Limited stock, six bottles only per member. 12%

Domaine Gauby, Les Calcinaires Blanc 2013 Slightly lower acidity at harvest has enabled 2013 to mature a little more quickly and it

is perfect now. Dry, mineral and taut with flavours of herb and citrus and a lovely seam of freshness. Now to 2018. 12% Available only in mixed case E-MX1734.



LES CALCINAIRES: VILLAGE WINES WITH GLOBAL APPEALStandard-bearers for Gérard Gauby’s home turf of Calce, north-west of Perpignan, Les Calcinaires demonstrate, perhaps better than any of his creations, the originality and uniqueness of his wines. The whites, a blend of local macabeu with a supporting cast that includes chardonnay and carignan blanc, are, designated IGP Côtes Catalanes. They mature beautifully, which is why we have held back a selection of older vintages to complement the exceptional 2015. These are versatile food wines, and should not be overchilled.

The reds, a similarly rule-bending assemblage of mourvèdre, grenache, carignan and syrah are deeply flavoured and concentrated but never heavy and all the better for an hour in a decanter They, too, are designated IGP, but occasionally (though not intentionally, one feels), they may wander on-piste and embrace the Côtes du Roussillon-Villages appellation. Just focus on the important part of the name: Domaine Gauby.

THE GAUBY CALCINAIRES COMPARATIVE WHITE CASE £85Drink or store to 2018

A six-bottle case containing two bottles of each of the following wines:

Domaine Gauby, Les Calcinaires Blanc 2014 Domaine Gauby, Les Calcinaires Blanc 2011Domaine Gauby, Les Calcinaires Blanc 2010

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DOMAINE GAUBY MIXED CASE £95Drink or store to 2018

A six-bottle case containing one bottle of each of the following wines:

Domaine Gauby, Les Calcinaires Blanc 2015Domaine Gauby, Les Calcinaires Blanc 2013Domaine Gauby, Les Calcinaires Blanc 2011Domaine Gauby, Les Calcinaires Rouge 2015 Domaine Gauby, Les Calcinaires Rouge 2014 Côtes du Roussillon-Villages Rouge Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Gauby 2004

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REDSE-FC29751 Domaine Gauby Les Calcinaires Rouge 2015 £14.95 bottle £179 dozen The reds were as blessed as the whites in 2015, packing juicy, lip-smacking red fruits,

both on nose and palate but, for all its opulence, perfectly balanced. Potent, but elegant. Decant in advance to bring it out of its shell. Now to 2020. 13%

E-FC29171 Domaine Gauby, Les Calcinaires Rouge 2014 £14.95 bottle £179 dozen Like its white counterpart, this is a tad lighter than usual in alcohol, but not on flavour.

Full, but fine, and lifted by a fresh, floral note and a lick of oak, it finishes long and harmoniously. Now to 2020. 12%

E-FC13091 Côtes du Roussillon-Villages Rouge Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Gauby 2004 £25 bottle £300 dozen A full-flavoured red with remarkable purity of fruit and great finesse from a cool year that

led to a more linear feel in the wines – likened by Gérard to the more restrained character of traditional claret. Perfect now and next year. 12.5%

E-FC24051 Côtes du Roussillon-Villages Coume Gineste Rouge, Domaine Gauby 2011 £59 bottle £708 dozen

A new cuvée with the majority grenache from a north-facing slope with low-yielding vines, some of them very old, planted on schists. A sense of finesse is paramount here and a fruit-driven expression and flavour that has more in common with Burgundy than the south of France. Now to 2020. 14%

E-FC24011 Côtes du Roussillon-Villages La Jasse Rouge, Domaine Gauby 2011 £60 bottle A stunning cuvée of mourvèdre, ripe and digestibly modest in alcohol, thanks to masterful

husbandry. Black fruits abound on the nose and palate with a subtle touch of liquorice, underpinned by supple tannins. Poised and complex, and perfect winter wine. Now to 2022. Limited stock, six bottles only per member. 12.5%

E-FC15741 Côtes du Roussillon-Villages Muntada, Domaine Gauby 2006 £65 bottle Among the secret weapons of Domaine Gauby is the ability to call upon some

remarkable pre-phylloxera carignan, which takes pride of place here in Gérard’s pièce de résistance. Grenache and mourvèdre offer strong support. This is a big-boned but strikingly elegant red of classed-growth breed and unashamed Mediterranean warmth, made for mature lamb and dark game. Now to 2028. Limited stock, six bottles only per member. 13.5%



HENRI RAMONTEU, DOMAINE CAUHAPÉ, JURANÇONDRY WHITESE-FC31041 Jurançon Sec ‘Chant des Vignes’, Domaine Cauhapé 2015 £9.50 bottle £114 dozen

Dry, crisp and full-flavoured white made from a blend of gros manseng and camaralet.Jurançon with its intense flavours of tropical fruit, is emblematic of Pyrenean whites. Now to 2018. 14%

E-FC31591 Jurançon Sec ‘Sève d’Automne’, Domaine Cauhapé 2013 £17 bottle £204 dozen This is a splendid, full-bodied white made from equal quantities of gros and petit manseng,

aged for a year in old barrels. The flavours are unctuous, rich and citrusy, with a touch of pineapple. Try with strong flavours like fish, crab or poultry, or with hard cheeses. Now to 2019. 14.5%

E-FC31571 Jurançon Sec ‘Canopé’, Domaine Cauhapé 2014 £25 bottle £300 dozen

This is a dry Jurançon on the grandest of scales and made from old vines of petit manseng picked very late towards the end of November. Powerful and loaded with flavours of dried fruit, apricot, fig and quince. This demands big and flavourful dishes such as chicken tagine or roast goose. Now to 2022. 15%

SWEET WHITES E-FC31331 Jurançon ‘Ballet d’Octobre’, Domaine Cauhapé 2015 £13.95 bottle £167 dozen

Not too sweet, and with a seam of fresh acidity to keep everything light and airy, this is a lovely pudding wine, redolent of a golden October, to be enjoyed with fruit salads, fruit tarts or cheese. Now to 2020. 13%

E-FC27531 Jurançon ‘Symphonie de Novembre’, Domaine Cauhapé 2012 £19 bottle £228 dozen

Made from petit manseng grapes picked in November when they are shrivelled and intensely sweet, this is a sensuous, delectable dessert wine to be savoured with bread and butter pudding. Now to 2020. 14%

E-FC31551 Jurançon Moelleux ‘Noblesse du Temps’, Domaine Cauhapé 2012 £32 bottle £384 dozen

Made from petit manseng, picked at the end of the year, and aged in new oak for 18 months, this a very complex and full-bodied dessert white. Honeyed candied peel, mingled with apricot and spice make it perfect with blue cheese or a tarte tatin. Now to 2025. 14%

THE SUD-OUESTRAMONTEU AND BRUMONTHenri Ramonteu in Jurançon and Alain Brumont in Madiran are not only leaders, but pioneers of their respective regions.

At one time, the mere existence of these sub-Pyrenean vineyards hung by a thread. Relics of a bygone past, they seemed too small and too insignificant to revive. When visiting, one is more aware than elsewhere that growing grapes is a part of farming.

The Ramonteu family bred cattle and fowl and grew cereals before Henri decided to concentrate on the vine. He trained in Bordeaux, fell in love with Sauternes and today, at Domaine Cauhapé, he makes sweet wines that are some of the best nectars produced anywhere. Gros and petit manseng are clearly the best grapes here but Henri has also revived varieties that had almost vanished, such as lauzet and camaralet. The work is largely done by hand and the sheer number of cuvées he produces is testament to his drive towards precision and individuality.

Alain Brumont also began in general farming. Indeed, he was driving tractors from the age of 16. Wine was a passion and, against all the odds, he managed to create an estate from scratch and with no money. This was Montus, which, with the 1985 vintage, took the world by storm. For Alain, the key was to understand the land, in other words terroir and to match each soil type and exposition with the right grape variety. Today, this might seem unsurprising but 30 years ago it was almost unheard of.

Petit manseng, tannat and cabernet franc are all grape varieties with a strength of character that perfectly matches that of both these incredible wine pioneers. The two make natural allies in this feature, and we urge members to try their thought-provoking wines. Marcel Orford-Willliams



ALAIN BRUMONT, MADIRANDRY WHITEE-FC31601 Pacherenc-du-Vic-Bilh, Château Montus Blanc Sec 2012 £22 bottle £264 dozen

A very full-bodied, expressive white made from petit courbu and petit manseng grapes and aged in barrel for two years. Unctuous with candied-pineapple flavours, very fat but finishing dry. This will go well with fish or poultry served in creamy sauces, veal with mushrooms or sweetbreads. Now to 2020. 15%

REDE-FC31581 Madiran, Château Bouscassé 2011 £15.50 bottle £186 dozen

A splendid example of Madiran. Dark, ripe and full-flavoured: black fruits, black cherry and spice. Try with duck magret or roast loin of pork. Now to 2029. 14.5%

E-FC31561 Madiran, Château Montus 2011 £22 bottle £264 dozen

Made from a blend of tannat and cabernet sauvignon and aged in barrel for a year, this is deeply coloured and well polished, full-flavoured and thickly textured with a taste of black fruits and spice. Consummate rib of beef wine. Now to 2030. 15%

E-FC31541 Madiran Vieilles Vignes, Château Bouscassé 2006 £27 bottle Mature, leathery spice-box of a wine, made from 100% tannat. Multi-layered, densely

packed and concentrated and perfect with venison or beef. Now to 2033. Limited stock, six bottles only per member. 14.5%

E-FC31531 Madiran Prestige, Château Montus 2002 £49 bottle

The flagship wine of Montus, made from 100% tannat planted 35 years ago when Alain Brumont created his estate from scratch. Very low yields and meticulous attention to detail combine to make a wine of great intensity and finesse. Now to 2030. 15.5% Low stock, three bottles only per member.

E-FC31521 Madiran La Tyre, Château Montus 2006 £99 bottle

This is made from a small plot of vines on Montus land, where the exposition is south-westerly on soil with large pudding stones that radiate heat. Almost 100% tannat, which makes a wine of great intensity and, at the same time, of great finesse too. Grand cru equivalent and best served with well seasoned beef or game. Now to 2035. 15% Low stock, three bottles only per member.

SWEET WHITEE-FC31611 Pacherenc-du-Vic-Bilh ‘Larmes Célestes’, Château Bouscassé 2014 £14.50 bottle £174 dozen

A late-harvest white, sweet but with tingling freshness underlaying notes of crystallised fruit, candied peel and a touch of spice. A soulmate for baked apples or tarte aux pommes. Now to 2020. 13%

SUD-OUEST CASE £110Drink or store to 2019, though the red wines will keep considerably longer.


Jurançon Sec ‘Sève d’Automne’, Domaine Cauhapé 2013Pacherenc-du-Vic-Bilh, Château Montus Blanc Sec 2012Madiran, Château Montus 2011Madiran, Château Bouscassé 2011Jurançon ‘Symphonie de Novembre’, Domaine Cauhapé 2012Pacherenc-du-Vic-Bilh ‘Larmes Célestes’, Château Bouscassé 2014

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WHITEE-FC29161 Mas Champart Blanc, Pays d’Oc 2014 £12.95 bottle £155 dozen

The base of this intriguing white from Saint-Chinian, though of course it can’t be called that, is the parlously low yield of a plot of very venerable terret, with a little grenache gris and bourboulenc in support. The slightly nutty, herb-infused flavour and clean, dry finish would round up grilled squid, or seafood pasta. Now to 2019. 13.5%

E-NZ9401 Dog Point Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2016 £13.50 bottle £162 dozen We are unapologetic about the regular inclusion of this Kiwi Small Wonder and serial

Wine Champion. Its precision and subtlety appeal to fans of Loire sauvignon, while its verdant, citrus-spiked undernotes are pure Marlborough. Now to 2020. 13%

E-FC30811 Limoux Chardonnay, Domaine de Mouscaillo 2013 £13.50 bottle £162 dozen

A gem from a remarkable vineyard, high up in the hills above Limoux, windswept and barren but where chardonnay and pinot grow well, even having the pretension to create Burgundian finesse. Treat this 100% chardonnay as such. Very fine, steely even, with the depth and concentration of something grander. Now to 2019. 13.5%

E-SA11611 Waterkloof Circle of Life, Stellenbosch 2013 £14.95 bottle £179 dozen Winemaker Nadia Barnard scooped five stars from the Platter Guide for this innovative

sauvignon-chenin blend, with chardonnay and semillon in support. A standard-bearer for the Cape blend revolution, it’s a refreshing and food-friendly white with intense, lime-scented sauvignon notes, enveloped by gently textured apricot and yellow stone-fruit flavours. Now to 2019. 13.5%

E-SP11911 Marqués de Murrieta Blanco Capellanía Vineyard, Rioja 2011 £14.95 bottle £179 dozen

A classy Rioja blanco from Murrieta who dedicate a single vineyard to this wine. Gentle and creamy with soft texture and lovely spicy flavour from oak ageing. Now to 2019. 13.5% The 2012 vintage follows.

E-NZ9461 Greywacke Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2016 £15.50 bottle £186 dozen

Another highly individual Marlborough sauvignon, something winemaker Kevin Judd achieved with global success while at Cloudy Bay. The high mineral content of greywacke sandstone produces a marked wet-flint note that adds intrigue to the cut-grass aromas and extra dimension to the palate. Crisp, generous and long. Now to 2019. 13%

E-SP11521 Tomàs Cusiné ‘Finca Racons’ Macabeu, Costers del Segre 2014 £17 bottle £204 dozen From the oldest macabeu vines in Costers del Segre, this poised Catalan white has delicate

white fruit and nutty flavour, a supple, harmonious palate, discreetly oak-licked from six months in barrel, and a long but fresh finish. Tomàs suggests decanting for an hour to allow the complex flavours full expression. Just 200 cases made. Now to 2019. 13%

E-BW5701 Château Doisy-Daëne Sec, Bordeaux 2015 £18 bottle £216 dozen

Beautifully balanced, harmonious sauvignon, with hints of cassis leaf and white peach, from vines planted on limestone soils. Bordeaux sauvignon at its best and a fine tribute to its proprietor, the late Denis Dubourdieu. Now to 2019. 13.5%

SMALL WONDERS FINE WINES AT £20 AND UNDERAs if on cue, to refresh jaded post-festive palates, sauvignon looms large in these pages, demonstrating how multi-dimensional it can be whether solus from Marlborough and Bordeaux, or wrapped in a clever blend from the Cape. The red antidote to grey days here is surely syrah from the other end of the world where summer is in full swing. For alternative tastes, many other options, including, from Italy, a not-at-all hellish Inferno nebbiolo and a far from waspish vespolina. Some may think us quite mad to propose a rosé in the dead of winter but, Denis Jamain’s pale-pink wonder is so good in all weathers that it would have been mad not to.



E-AR3451 Catena Alta Historic Rows Chardonnay 2014 £18 bottle £216 dozen

From the coolest year since 2001, and the two high-altitude Mendoza vineyards of Adrianna (1,450m above sea level) and Domingo (1,120m) this is finely wrought, understated Argentine chardonnay. Its appley freshness is tinged with an oatmealy lees flavour and a hint of oak on the long, fresh palate. Now to 2027. 13.5%

E-SA12271 Spioenkop Riesling, Elgin 2015 £19 bottle £228 dozen Made by the indefatigable Koen Roose-Vandenbroucke in the cool Elgin Valley, this

deliciously pure and focused South African riesling shows blossom and citrus aromas that lead to mouthwatering lemon, lime and stone-fruit flavours, and a touch of slate on the creamy, textured palate. It’s wonderful now with shellfish or meaty white fish grilled and dressed with lemon juice, but it has time in hand if you can resist it. Now to 2022. 12.5%

E-FC27611 Palette ‘Quintessence’ Blanc, Château Henri Bonnaud 2013 £21 bottle £252 dozen

This tiny appellation, just outside Aix-en-Provence and in full view of the Mont Sainte-Victoire, produces wines of real character and longevity. This white uses two varieties of clairette with a little ugni and is raised in oak for six months. Full-flavoured, rich and very long, and perfect with high-class fish and fowl in buttery sauces. Now to 2020. 13%

SMALL WONDERS WHITES £89Drink or store to 2019.


Mas Champart Blanc, Pays d’Oc 2014 Greywacke Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2016Limoux Chardonnay, Domaine de Mouscaillo 2013Waterkloof Circle of Life, Stellenbosch 2013Tomàs Cusiné ‘Finca Racons’ Macabeu, Costers del Segre 2014Château Doisy-Daëne Sec, Bordeaux 2015

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ROSÉE-LO12531 Reuilly Rosé ‘Les Chatillons’, Domaine Denis Jamain 2015 £10.95 bottle £131 dozen

This Loire gem, given its delicate blush by the pink-skinned pinot gris grape, has serious foodie credentials. Try its heady, slightly smoky, pear-scented charm and creamy texture with the classic oriental rhythm section of ginger and spring onion, or with Denis Jamain’s suggestion of charcuterie. Drink this year. 12.5%

RED E-AU19231 Peter Lehmann H & V Barossa Shiraz 2013 £11.50 bottle £138 dozen

The rich style of Barossa shiraz lends itself well to dark game such as venison. In this Hill and Valley bottling, the warmth of fruit from ancient valley floor soils is tempered by a cooler element from hillside vines for a robust but balanced red with blueberry and plum notes and just a hint of chocolate. Now to 2019. 14.5%

E-CB3661 Nectar de la Grave, Côtes de Bourg 2010 £12.50 bottle £150 dozen

The efforts that the Bassereaus have made in their vineyard have really paid off in recent years. This 100% merlot claret is splendidly ripe, well structured and full of flavour. Nectar represents the cream of their crop, just 10 per cent. Now to 2020. 14%

E-IT22571 Vespolina Colline Novaresi, Valle Roncati 2015 £12.95 bottle £155 dozen

Vespolina, so named because of its attraction for wasps, is native to north Piedmont and Lombardy where it is usually blended with nebbiolo. On its own, it has a spicy, peppery aroma and fruity, appetisingly dry palate that works well with rich flavours or, later in the year, as a bracing aperitif, served cellar cool. Now to 2018. 13%

E-SP11981 Viña Zorzal Corral de Altos Garnacha, Navarra 2014 £12.95 bottle £155 dozen

This tiny, historical plot of old-vine garnacha produces a compelling red which is flamboyant, but also pure and very serious. Availability is limited, so buy this while you can and serve with your Sunday-best lamb. Now to 2022. 14%



RED CONT.

E-CE8041 The Society’s Exhibition Alto Maipo Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 £13.50 bottle £162 dozen

Fine, cedary Chilean cabernet sauvignon made by Ignacio Recabarren exclusively for us from two of the best communes, Pirque and Tocornal. A year in barrel has softened the tannins and developed the aromas. The perfect balance of Bordeaux-like elegance and weight and Chilean charm and approachability – and terrific value for money. Now to 2023. 14.5%

E-US6691 Sobon Estate Rocky Top Amador County Zinfandel 2013 £14.95 bottle £179 dozen Amador County produces some of California’s most powerful zinfandels. This 2013 has

great intensity of black cherries and chocolate, with soft tannins and a full-bodied style. The finish is rich and long. Perfect steak and kidney pudding wine. Now to 2020. 14.5%

E-LE871 Domaine des Tourelles Vieilles Vignes Cinsault 2014 £14.95 bottle £179 dozen

A superb Lebanese red made from 60-year-old cinsault vines. Spicy and fragrant, this is plump, fleshy and dense in flavour. Now to 2020. 13%

E-CE8541 Undurraga Vigno Maule Carignan 2013 £17 bottle £204 dozen

Superb carignan from 50-year-old unirrigated bush vines in Maule. Ripe carignan from old vines is a delight. Matured for 16 months in oak barrels, 12% new, this has lovely black-fruit perfume and firm, but not dry, fruit with an attractive grip and freshness. Ideal with a shoulder of lamb or sweetbreads. Now to 2020. 14.5%

E-NZ8991 Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Syrah 2013 £18.50 bottle £222 dozen

Trinity Hill’s Gimblett Gravels vineyards produce some of the region’s most sought-after fruit. The near-perfect conditions in 2013 mean that this has intense blackcurrant concentration on both nose and palate. Black pepper and savoury meaty notes also develop on the long, complex finish. Now to 2023. 13%

E-SA11671 Boekenhoutskloof ‘The Chocolate Block’, Western Cape 2014 £19 bottle £228 dozen

A heady, but silky barrel-aged Cape blend, from the Wolftrap and Porcupine Ridge stable, driven by just over two-thirds plush Swartland syrah, with grenache, cinsault and viognier in support, and 12% cabernet sauvignon from Franschhoek and Stellenbosch in the mix too. Captivating aromas of violets and Christmas-pudding-spiced berries lead to an intense but smooth, velvety palate and long, dark finish that more than supports the name. A perfect match for stews enriched with dark chocolate. Now to 2021. 14.5%

E-NZ8441 Mount Koinga Central Otago Pinot Noir 2014 £19.50 bottle £234 dozen

Annika Streefland owns this small, single-vineyard property and treats the vines more like a large garden! Each is cared for by hand, day in, day out, and the wine made is exclusively for The Society. The 2014 is full of juicy redcurrant flavours, with soft ripe tannins and a long, refreshing finish. Now to 2019. 13.5%

E-IT22611 Valtellina Superiore Inferno, Mamete Prevostini 2013 £19.50 bottle £234 dozen

The wines of Valtellina, Italy’s northernmost wine region, can produce the most charming and elegant examples of the noble nebbiolo grape. Inferno earns its name as the warmest site of these steep south-facing terraced vineyards. Delicate red-fruit perfume, supported by lovely persistent fruit, perfect for warming mountain fare like polenta with braised game or porcini mushrooms. Now to 2023. 13.5%

SMALL WONDERS

SMALL WONDERS REDS £89Drink or store to 2018.


Undurraga Vigno Maule Carignan 2013Nectar de la Grave, Côtes de Bourg 2010Vespolina Colline Novaresi, Valle Roncati 2015Viña Zorzal Corral de Altos Garnacha, Navarra 2014Sobon Estate Rocky Top Amador County Zinfandel 2013Mount Koinga Central Otago Pinot Noir 2014

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SOUTH AFRICAMILES MOSSOP, STELLENBOSCHWith degrees in geology, as well as oenology and viticulture, Miles Mossop is perfectly equipped to make the most of South Africa’s rich and varied terroirs. His early experience with Gyles Webb at Thelema and Eben Sadie at Spice Route, as well as in Australia and California, and graduation at the top of his class at the University of Stellenbosch, led the owner of the then brand new Tokara winery, GT Ferreira, to appoint him as winemaker in 2000. Awards have come thick and fast ever since. Wine is in his blood – he is the son of the late Tony Mossop (Axe Hill fortified wines), though his passions are now shared between ‘surfing, wine and family (not particularly in that order)’, he says.

Family is celebrated in Miles’ own three wines, which together total 1,000 cases per year and have won a few awards of their own. Each is named after one of his children: daughter Saskia-Jo is represented by the rich dry Saskia white, the Platter five-starred 2012 of which is available via our website. Here we offer six vintages of Bordeaux-inspired Max – named for son Maximilian – three to have and three to hold. Joanna Locke MW

E-SA12201 Miles Mossop ‘Max’, Stellenbosch 2013 £16 bottle £192 dozen

From low-yielding, unirrigated vineyards, vinified in 225-litre French oak barrels, around half of them new. Characterised by purity of fruit, the 2013 is 56% cabernet sauvignon, 26% merlot and 18% petit verdot, with classy, cigar-box nuanced dark fruit profile complemented by fine tannins and long-lasting spicy flavour. Now to 2023. 14.5%


Awarded the coveted five stars in Platter’s Wine Guide 2016 which noted: ‘Classic, polished and elegant; deserves time in bottle, like 2011.’ A little less cabernet sauvignon (48%) and a little more petit verdot (22%) bring spicy, graphite notes to the fore, couched in succulent yet precise red and black fruit, still with a touch of sweet oak. Now to 2024. 14.5%


56% cabernet sauvignon with 22% each merlot and petit verdot, this is a perfectly poised beauty, and a star in a tricky Cape vintage. Fine-boned structure and appetising freshness, with a sprinkling of five-spice, and the finest of tannins set this up for an excellent future. Now to 2023. 14.5%

Miles Mossop ‘Max’, Stellenbosch 2008 A Platter’s Guide five-star wine in 2012 when they, and Miles, called it a ‘plush’ vintage – the

result of a cooler season. The tannins are silky, the palate smooth, with touches of tobacco and liquorice beneath fleshy dark fruit. 50% cabernet sauvignon, 27% merlot, 23% petit verdot with fine, long flavour and chalky tannins. Now to 2020. 14% Available only in mixed case E-MX1721

Miles Mossop ‘Max’, Stellenbosch 2007 From another cool vintage, 2007 is a blend of 58% cabernet sauvignon with 23% petit

verdot and 19% merlot. A refined and elegant wine with pure, bright fruit and touches of black olive, fresh mint and violet. Pristine, with fine chalky tannins. Now to 2020. 14% Available only in mixed case E-MX1721

Miles Mossop ‘Max’, Stellenbosch 2006 The 2006 was a a warmer vintage and only the third Max to be produced. The wine

is classically styled nevertheless, with rich dark fruit, hints of menthol and spice and fine-grained tannins. The blend is 54% cabernet sauvignon, 23% petit verdot and 23% merlot. Now to 2018. 14% Available only in mixed case E-MX1721



MILES MOSSOP ‘MAX’FOR DRINKING NOW £49Drink or store to 2018

A three-bottle case containing one bottle of each of the following wines:

Miles Mossop ‘Max’, Stellenbosch 2006 Miles Mossop ‘Max’, Stellenbosch 2007 Miles Mossop ‘Max’, Stellenbosch 2008

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MILES MOSSOP ‘MAX’FOR KEEPING £49Drink or store to 2023


Miles Mossop ‘Max’, Stellenbosch 2011 Miles Mossop ‘Max’, Stellenbosch 2012 Miles Mossop ‘Max’, Stellenbosch 2013

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E-IT22371 Gattinara, Torraccia del Piantavigna 2008 £19 bottle £228 dozen

Yields were particularly low in 2008, demonstrated by the concentration and depth here. Deeply fruity on the nose, intense and rich on the palate, this is a potent, but approachable expression of the nebbiolo grape. Now to 2020. 14.5%

E-IT22411 Ghemme, Torraccia del Piantavigna 2007 £20 bottle £240 dozen

Proprietor Alessandro Francoli thinks this may be the greatest vintage in the history of Torraccia, though 2004 runs it a very close second. Softer and fuller in body, with slightly lower acidity, it’s fresh and vibrant with ripe, scented, red-fruit aromas, subtly spiked with a note of the spice-jar, and a seductive and elegant palate. Now to 2020. 14%

E-IT22361 Gattinara, Torraccia del Piantavigna 2004 £21 bottle The wines of Gattinara are considered more ‘masculine’ than those of nearby Ghemme,

a reflection of the volcanic origin, rocky and porous soil here which perfectly suits the nebbiolo grape. 2004 was an excellent vintage, as may be seen in the full, structured flavour, mellowed by three years in Allier oak. Now to 2020. Limited stock, six bottles only per member. 13.5%

E-IT22381 Ghemme, Torraccia del Piantavigna 2003 £21 bottle The combination of relatively acid clay soils and the cool air that flows down from the

mountains defines Ghemme, a blend of 90% nebbiolo and 10% vespolina, matured for three years in French oak, and then in bottle for at least six months before release. This hot vintage gave the wine sweet fragrance and splendid full, rich flavour which counters the more savoury, austere character that typifies the wines from northern Piedmont. Now to 2018. Limited stock, six bottles only per member. 13.5%

E-IT22391 Ghemme, Torraccia del Piantavigna 2004 £21 bottle £252 dozen A beautifully balanced vintage, harvested in perfect conditions, has delivered a delicious

Ghemme with fine, perfumed bouquet, elegant flavour to match, and gentle texture on the palate. Small wonder that it won a coveted ‘Tre Bicchieri’, the top mark awarded by the authoritative Gambera Rossa guide to Italian wine. Now to 2020. 13.5%

ITALYHIDDEN GHEMME – AND GATTINARA It’s not often these days that one comes across a parcel of mature vintages of seriously good wine at a friendly price. We have just done so. Because it’s our job to study these things, we knew of the potential of the vineyards of northern Piedmont to make great wine from the nebbiolo grape that rivals Barolo. After many years of disappointing sampling, we have at last found the source we were looking for. It is Torraccia del Piantavigna, a family-owned estate, whose hillside vineyards in the DOCGs of Gattinara and Ghemme lie against the dramatic backdrop of the Alps and the Monte Rosa.

All of the wines below were matured in barrel for at least three years, and then for six months in bottle before release. Owing to naturally low yields and the estate’s attention to green harvesting and strict selection, volumes are limited at the best of times, but especially of mature wines like these. Nebbiolo does reward ageing, and it’s been done for us. Take advantage. Sebastian Payne MW

SOUTH AFRICA



THE GHEMME AND GATTINARA CASE £120Drink or store to 2018

A six-bottle case containing one bottle of each of the following, and wine notes supplied by the domaine.

Gattinara, Torraccia del Piantavigna 2004Gattinara, Torraccia del Piantavigna 2008Ghemme, Torraccia del Piantavigna 2003Ghemme, Torraccia del Piantavigna 2004Ghemme, Torraccia del Piantavigna 2005Ghemme, Torraccia del Piantavigna 2007

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E-IT22401 Ghemme, Torraccia del Piantavigna 2005 £20 bottle £240 dozen

A late-picked vintage, yielding real nebbiolo finesse and style, less full-bodied than 2004 or 2007. Notes of sweet fruits and spices wrapped in a subtle vanilla bouquet from the French oak, lead to a well rounded and harmonious palate. Elegant and classic nebbiolo. Now to 2018. 13.5%

E-IT22421 Ghemme Riserva, Torraccia del Piantavigna 2007 £27 bottle £324 dozen Torraccia bottle a Riserva only in exceptional vintages. This is a special selection from

their best vineyard on top of the hill, Ronco dell’ Ulivo. Yields are particularly low and the wine is given four years in barrel. A powerful wine, beautifully balanced with rounded, scented and persistent flavour and soft, velvety tannins, capable of developing over 20 years. Our drink dates are a conservative guide. Now to 2021. 14%



NEW ZEALAND: MOUTERE AND MATÉThe Brajkovich family of Kumeu River and the Finns of Neudorf are two of New Zealand’s most revered producers. Both properties are truly boutique, family-run and hands-on. The wines are carefully crafted and represent some of the best wines in New Zealand. Both also have pioneered less well-known regions within New Zealand, Auckland and Nelson, finding great sites that offer super potential for fine wines for the future. Here is a great opportunity to try Kumeu’s top chardonnay alongside Neudorf’s best pinot. Sarah Knowles MW

MATÉ’S VINEYARD, KUMEU RIVER, AUCKLANDMichael Brajkovich MW’s top cuvée is crafted from hand-harvested fruit from Maté’s vineyard, a small plot that lies opposite the winery. Barrel aged for 11 months, Maté’s chardonnay is loved by critics the world over for its complexity, longevity and the genuine value it represents. It needs a little time to hit its stride and grows ever more elegant with age.

E-NZ8451 Kumeu River Hunting Hill Auckland Pinot Noir 2013 £21 bottle £252 dozen

New to the Kumeu range, this pinot noir, from a single vineyard already made famous by its chardonnay, is a great addition to the range. Elegant and long, its fine integrated tannins are upholstered by abundant cranberry and redcurrant flavours, with background notes of herb and spice. Delicious now, but worth keeping too. Now to 2025. 13.5%

E-NZ7991 Kumeu River Maté’s Vineyard Auckland Chardonnay 2012 £29 bottle £348 dozen

The 2012 is starting to show growing complexity while retaining refined elegance. Toasty oak notes are now in balance with the apple and citrus fruit aromas. On the palate, the concentrated flavours of baked apple, lemon and chalk are held beautifully by fresh acidity. The finish is long and refined. Now to 2022. 13%


2014 is an exceptional vintage, currently showing its youth in a bright citrus and brioche nose, concentration on the palate, chalky grip and very long finish. Keep this a while longer if you can, or decant before serving. Now to 2030. 13.5%


An extra year in bottle has coaxed out extra layers of generous, green-apple fruit, spiked with toasty, well-integrated oak and a mineral tang on the finish. Long and impressive, and also worth keeping a little longer, though it’s already a joy to drink. Now to 2027. 13.5%

NEUDORF, MOUTERE VINEYARD, NELSONJudy and Tim Finn first planted vines in Nelson, on the northern tip of South Island in 1978. They were among the first to explore the potential of this region, and settled broadly on pinot noir and chardonnay. Moutere pinot comes from their home vineyard, a gently sloping site with deep gravel soils.

E-NZ7451 Neudorf Moutere Nelson Pinot Noir 2011 £35 bottle £420 dozen The annual production of Moutere pinot is only 600 cases even in years such as 2011

when New Zealand enjoyed generally higher yields. Judy and Tim Finn associate low yields with the most concentrated berries that produce the finest wines. This pinot still has a great youthful red-cherry and blueberry nose which will open up in a large glass, or after decanting, to show more complex spice underneath. Mouthwatering and fine-grained, and a pinot of real class. Now to 2022. 14.5%

E-NZ6371 Neudorf Moutere Nelson Pinot Noir 2010 £35 bottle £420 dozen

Yields in 2010 were down across New Zealand, which has led to a very concentrated and well-structured Moutere. With red cherry and oriental spice on the nose, and a core of berry fruit supported by firm tannins, this will benefit from decanting. Now to 2020. 14%

E-NZ5931 Neudorf Moutere Nelson Pinot Noir 2009 £36 bottle £432 dozen

2009 was generally warm and dry – good conditions for a very healthy and balanced harvest. This pinot is now à point with an enticing perfume of sweet red-berry fruit, spice and forest floor. Medium in body with fine tannins that support the more developed notes of truffle and pepper and the cranberry and redcurrant flavours that remain vibrant on the long, ripe finish. Now to 2018. 14%



THREE VINTAGES OFMATÉ’S CHARDONNAY £89Drink or store to 2022.

A three-bottle case containing a bottle of each of the following wines:

Kumeu River Maté’s Vineyard Auckland Chardonnay 2012Kumeu River Maté’s Vineyard Auckland Chardonnay 2013Kumeu River Maté’s Vineyard Auckland Chardonnay 2014

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THREE VINTAGES OFMOUTERE PINOT NOIR £99Drink or store to 2018.


Neudorf Moutere Nelson Pinot Noir 2009Neudorf Moutere Nelson Pinot Noir 2010Neudorf Moutere Nelson Pinot Noir 2011

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GERMANY: WEINGUT DÖNNHOFF, NAHEAll too often, we find ourselves having to ration the sought-after wines of master of the Nahe, Helmut Dönnhoff, and so we are delighted to be able to offer members another chance to snap up a limited-edition case from the 2014 vintage. This was a year of fresh and floral riesling, mouthwatering, charming and approachable, but with time in hand too. Stocks are low and early ordering recommended.

THE 2014 DÖNNHOFF CASE £79Drink or store to 2021

A four-bottle case containing one bottle of each of the wines below:

The following wines are only available as part of this mixed case.

Oberhauser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett, Dönnhoff 2014 The south-east-facing slate slope of Leistenberg, behind the village of Oberhausen, is perfect for Kabinett wines because grapes ripen fully over a long period without excessive alcohol. Stylish, elegant wine with lovely citrus fruit and persistent flavour. Now to 2021. 9%

Oberhauser Brücke Riesling Spätlese, Dönnhoff 2014 Brücke, the smallest vineyard site of the Nahe, with a mix of grey slate and clay soils, has its own microclimate where the fruit ripens late but produces wines of great depth of flavour. A complex, beautiful wine with radiant fruit, lifted by racy acidity. Now to 2025. 8.5%

Norheimer Kirschheck Riesling Spätlese, Dönnhoff 2014The slate and sandstone soils of the south-facing Kirschheck in the Nahe yield quite wonderful rieslings which need time to unfold. The 2005s, for instance, are delicious now. The late-picked fruit here, still evolving, is lifted by that trademark German raciness, poised and unbelievably concentrated.Lovely now but keep, if you can, for a few years more. Now to 2025. 8.5%

Kreuznacher Krötenpfuhl Riesling Kabinett, Dönnhoff 2014 From the quartz soils of the Krötenpfuhl, located near the town’s spring, an easy, approchable and charming riesling with hints of orange on the bouquet, just off-dry to balance the natural refreshing fruit acidity of the vintage. Now to 2025. 9%

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E-PW5351 Passadouro Tinto, Douro 2013 £13.95 bottle £167 dozen

Passadouro Tinto is a blend of traditional Port grapes touriga nacional, tinta roriz and touriga franca with a 10% field blend of mixed varieties, aged in French oak for 16 months. The wines are quirkily labelled with a different bird or beast each year, a rabbit in 2013. Still quite youthful, it has lively brambly flavours with a whiff of winter spice and a pleasingly grippy finish. Now to 2024. 14%

E-PW3931 Passadouro Tinto, Douro 2010 £14.95 bottle £179 dozen

2010, the year of the fox, has evolved beautifully. Packed with ripe blackberry fruit and lifted by cherry freshness, it has a long and impressive finish and is perfectly poised for drinking now to 2020. 14%

E-PW3511 Passadouro Tinto, Douro 2009 £14.95 bottle £179 dozen A further year in bottle and the hotter 2009 vintage brings richness and generosity.

A nicely mature Tinto with fragrant aromas of flowers and herbs, damson fruit and very fine, gentle tannins. Sporting an otter on the label, this is lovely now and to 2021. 14.5% Low stock.

Passadouro Tinto, Douro 2008 The owl takes pride of place on the 2008 label and the fact that only enough stock

remains to offer in the mixed case suggests that this has been a wise buy indeed for members. This is a strikingly elegant Douro, in a state of perfect maturity. Drink to 2020. 14.5% Available only in mixed case E-MX1723.

E-PW5681 Passadouro Touriga Franca, Douro 2012 £19 bottle £228 dozen

Less expressive in its youth, touriga franca marries freshness with volume and a lovely velvety texture and this maiden vintage shows all that, with a fine red-fruit profile. Now to 2022. 13.5%

E-PW3831 Passadouro Touriga Nacional, Douro 2010 £20 bottle £240 dozen

This maiden vintage, produced following the acquisition of a neighbouring Quinta, joins the trend for single-varietal Douro reds, here from flagship grape touriga nacional which delivers deep purple colour, haunting floral perfume and muscular structure, with fresh grip on the finish. Now if decanted to 2022. 14.5%

THE DOUROQUINTA DO PASSADOUROThe historic Passadouro estate lies in the heart of the Douro’s Cima Corgo, long recognised as the finest for Port production, but its longer growing season has become hugely important in the development of fine DOC red wine production. Quinta do Passadouro was purchased in 1991 by the late Dieter Bohrmann, a Belgian industrialist, and remains family-owned. The initial 18 hectares of vineyards and five hectares of olives have been expanded since but retain at their heart an old (average 60 years old), high-density mixed planted vineyard alongside newer, lower-density plantings. On these precipitous schistous slopes, hand harvesting is a necessity and yields are low.

The first wines were made by (and grapes also supplied to) Dirk Nieport and his then winemaker Jorge Borges, who joined Passadouro in 1999 and has managed the vineyards and cellar ever since. The stainless-steel fermenters and French oak barrels here reflect the modern approach to winemaking, but the old granite lagares alongside them confirm that the human foot is still prioritised for the finest-quality wines. Part barrel-fermented, and matured in French oak, the Reserva bottlings are a palpable step-up in complexity from the domaine’s Tintos. They are made from older vines – a field blend of the 20-odd varieties grown here – spend longer in oak and need longer cellaring to unfold. Joanna Locke MW



E-PW4811 Passadouro Reserva, Douro 2011 £32 bottle £384 dozen

Part-barrel fermented, and matured in French oak, the Reserva bottlings are a palpable step-up in complexity from the domaine’s Tintos. They are made from older vines – a field blend of the 20-odd varieties grown here – spend longer in oak and need longer cellaring to unfold. The warm 2011 produced a dense, classy wine of enormous concentration. The fruit is sweet and rich, around a fine mineral core; the finish is fragrant and very long. Now to 2027. 14.5%

E-PW2784 Magnum of Passadouro Reserva, Douro 2008 £65 magnum £390 per six

Sadly, only magnums remain of the 2008 vintage. Take solace in their generous size! The older vines behind the Reserva come through here loud and clear in the concentration and power on the palate, beautifully offset by opulent fruit and firm, but gentle tannins. Now to 2025. 14.5%

E-PW3521 Passadouro Reserva, Douro 2009 £32 bottle £384 dozen

Another deep, dark beauty of lovely flavour, substance and length and velvety tannins, the whole kept in check by attractive grip on the finish. Decant now or cellar to 2025. 14.5%

E-PW3524 Magnum of Passadouro Reserva, Douro 2009 £65 magnum £390 per six

E-PW2401 Passadouro Reserva, Douro 2007 £33 bottle £396 dozen Densely blue-black in colour, gorgeously perfumed and fabulously concentrated the

brooding intensity and grip offers up great potential for cellaring, but it is just beginning to hit its stride. Now to 2025. 14.5%

E-PW1441 Passadouro Reserva, Douro 2005 £33 bottle

Dense and blue-black, with restrained floral aromatics and sweet, concentrated fruit overlaid with creamy oak. Beautifully mature, but, sadly, down to the last few cases. Now to 2022. 14% Low stock, two bottles only per member.

PASSADOURORESERVA CASE £95Drink or store to 2025


Passadouro Reserva, Douro 2007Passadouro Reserva, Douro 2009 Passadouro Reserva, Douro 2011

ref E-MX1724

PASSADOURO TINTO CASE £89Drink or store to 2020

A six-bottle case containing two bottles of each of the following wines:

Passadouro Tinto, Douro 2008 Passadouro Tinto, Douro 2009Passadouro Tinto, Douro 2010

ref E-MX1723


FNJAN17

This offer is open until Sunday March 12th, 2017 while stocks last.

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How to use this Listl Wines are listed by theme and then by pricel Drink dates are given as a guide to maturity and ageing

potentiall For further information about any of the wines please contact

Member Services on 01438 741177 l Fine wines too limited in quantity to be listed may be

found in the fine wine section of The Society’s website at thewinesociety.com/finewine

Fine Wine Advisers – here to helpPlease contact the Fine Wine Advisers for help with wine selection, food matching and any other wine-related subject. Visit thewinesociety.com/advice or call 01438 741177 to find out more.

HIGHLIGHTS IN THIS LIST INCLUDE:BORDEAUX: Pleasures of Pomerol and Saint-Emilion

AFFORDABLE WHITE BURGUNDY: From Mâcon and the Côte d’Or

ITALY: Hidden Treasures of Piemonte

QUINTA DO PASSADOURO: A decade of delicious Douro red

DOMAINE GAUBY: Unique wines from a Roussillon master

MILES MOSSOP: Stellenbosch to the ‘Max’


thewinesociety.com/finewines - home - the wine … if young max mossop wants to be a train driver...

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