659659

OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Sain Alizada, Ian Baker, Sal Bolton, Iain Cook, Erin Crampton, Alkistis Danilatou, Gary Dickman, Hans Elander, Jack & Deidre Evans, Nadine Haas, Rüdiger Heß, Jinghan Di, Shona Leisk, Jeroen Loopstra, Kathy Manville, Kelly McFaden, Thomas Michel, Yu Morikawa, Chuck Perso, Phillip Roullard, Olivia Rowland, Gary Salloum, Kerstin Stiegler, Lukas Toma, Jean Tuck, Lisa Wilkie

AUTHOR THANKS Charles Rawlings-WayThanks to the many generous, knowledge-able and quietly self-assured Kiwis I met on the road, especially the staff at the Hastings, Whanganui and New Plymouth i-SITEs who flew through my questions with the greatest of ease. Huge thanks to Tasmin Waby for signing me up, and the in-house LP content deities who electrified this CMS Frankenstein. Humongous gratitude to my tireless, witty and professional co-authors – Lee, Sarah, Peter and Brett − who always bring the humour and the class. Most of

all, thanks to Meg, Ione and Remy for holding the fort while I was away.

Brett AtkinsonThanks to all of the i-SITE, DOC and informa-tion centre staff who patiently answered all my questions. Cheers to the innovative chefs and inspired craft brewers of New Zealand for sus-tenance on the road, and to Carol for support on occasional beach, island, capital city and Hobbit-inspired getaways. Thanks to my fellow authors, the wittiest crew one could aspire to work with, and my appreciation to Tasmin Waby at Lonely Planet for the opportunity to again explore my Kiwi backyard.

Sarah Bennett & Lee SlaterThanks to everyone who helped us on the road, including tourism organisations, DOC and vis-itor centre staff, business operators and trav-ellers. Thanks also to friends and family who provided a park for the campervan, a fridge for the flagon, and company on vital research mis-sions. Finally, thanks to our fellow NZ authors for the camaraderie, as always, and Tasmin Waby for leading the team.

Peter DragicevichI owe a great deal of thanks to Hamish, Jill and John Blennerhassett in Wanaka, Scott and Sophie Kennedy in Queenstown, Michael

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Behind the Scenes

660

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

Wilson in Invercargill, and Joanne and Phil Cole on Waiheke Island. Special thanks to Michael Woodhouse for his comradeship on the road in Otago. And to all of my Auckland friends and family who enthusiastically supped and gorged with me in the city’s bars and restaurants, good work!

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC,Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘UpdatedWorld Map of the Köppen-Geiger ClimateClassification’, Hydrology and Earth SystemSciences, 11, 1633–44.

Cover photograph: Crater Lake, Mt Rua-pehu, Tongariro National Park, North Island, Danita Delimont Stock / AWL ©

THIS BOOK This 18th edition of Lonely Planet’s New Zealand guide-book was researched and writ-ten by Charles Rawlings-Way, Brett Atkinson, Sarah Bennett, Peter Dragicevich and Lee Slater. The 17th and 16th editions were researched by the same writers. This guide-book was produced by the following:

Destination Editor Tasmin WabyProduct Editors Elizabeth Jones, Tracy WhitmeySenior Cartographer Diana Von HoldtBook Designer Michael BuickAssisting Editors Imogen Bannister, Michelle Bennett, Nigel Chin, Gabrielle Innes, Jodie Martire, Kristin Odijk, Gabrielle Stefanos, Saralinda Turner

Assisting Cartographers Hunor Csutoros, Corey Hutchison, Rachel ImesonCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Anita Banh, Jennifer Carey, David Carroll, Daniel Corbett, Ryan Evans, Andi Jones, Lauren Keith, Karyn Noble, Darren O’Con-nell, Mazzy Prinsep, Kirsten Rawlings, Diana Saengkham, Dianne Schallmeiner, Eleanor Simpson, Angela Tinson, Anna Tyler, Dora Whitaker

661©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

309 Road 203-4

AAbel Tasman National Park

14, 414-18, 415, 15Acacia Bay 256accommodation 640-2, see

also individual locationsactivities, see individual

activitiesAhipara 158-9air travel 652, 653-4Akaroa 19, 480-4, 482, 19albatrosses 528-9Alexandra 534-6Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail 501Anaura Bay 323Anchor Bay 120animals 621-5, see also

individual animalsAnzac Bay 212Aoraki/Mt Cook National

Park 503-7, 504-5, 5Arahaki Lagoon 295Aramoana Hill 239Arawhata Bridge 456area codes 21, 649Aroha Island 148Arrowtown 562-6, 563art galleries, see museums

& galleriesArthur’s Pass 489-90Arthur’s Pass National

Park 489arts 628-33, 634-8, see

also individual artsAtene 239ATMs 646Auckland 9, 63-100, 64,

66, 70-1, 74, 76, 79, 82, 85, 2, 9

accommodation 62, 81-6activities 75-7

children, travel with 81climate 62, 643drinking & nightlife 92-5entertainment 95-6festivals & events 22,

78-9, 81food 62, 86-92highlights 64history 63information 97-8itineraries 63shopping 96-7sights 63-75tours 77-8travel seasons 62travel to/from 98-9travel within 99-100walking tours 78, 80, 80

Auckland Pride Festival 79Awakino 192-3

Bbank accounts 646-7Banks Peninsula 19, 478-84,

479Barrytown 437bathrooms 649Bay of Islands 10, 57, 123,

136-51, 124-5, 137, 11accommodation 123climate 123food 123highlights 124Māori culture 281travel seasons 123

Bay of Plenty 58, 278, 298-318, 280

accommodation 278climate 278food 278highlights 280travel seasons 278

Baylys Beach 163-4B&Bs 640beaches 26

Auckland 77Cape Reinga 156

Cathedral Cove 208Colquhouns Beach 567Frasers Beach 587Great Barrier Island 109Hahei Beach 208Hawke’s Bay 349Hot Water Beach 209Kai Iwi Beach 234Kaikoura 398Karekare 26, 114Karikari Peninsula 155Mangawhai 126Matakana 120Mount Beach 304Napier 340New Chum’s Beach 204Ngarunui Beach 179Ocean Beach (Kawhia)

185Ocean Beach (Raglan) 179Oreti Beach 590Orewa 118Otama Beach 204Pacific Coast Hwy 322Scotts Beach 433Shipwreck Bay 158Tahuna Beach 403Timaru 494Waiheke Island 102Waihi Beach 212Wharariki Beach 26, 421

beer 25, 53, 362, see also breweries

bicycle travel, see cyclingbird parks, see also zoos &

wildlife reservesKatikati Bird Gardens 309Otorohanga Kiwi House &

Native Bird Park 187Wingspan National Bird of

Prey Centre 283birds 623, see also

individual birdsbirdwatching

Farewell Spit 421Kaikoura 399Kotuku Sanctuary 446

Miranda 197Okarito Lagoon 446Thames 198Waikanae 376

Blackball 440Blenheim 393-8Bluff 594boat travel 653, 654,

see also canoeing & kayaking

books 608, 616, 621Bream Bay 128-9breweries

Auckland 95Carterton 381Christchurch 474-5Gisborne 22, 327Greymouth 438Hamilton 174Hawke’s Bay 348Invercargill 590Mapua 410Martinborough 377Motueka 411Nelson 403, 405Nelson Region 408Palmerston North 246Paraparaumu 375Riverhead 116Taupo 261-2Urenui 225Waiheke Island 102Waipara Valley 487-8Wanaka 566Wellington 370Whenuakite 207

budget 21Buller Gorge 427-8Buller Region 427-35bungy jumping 48

Auckland 77Queenstown 543-5Rotorua 283Taupo 256-7

Buried Village 297bus travel 654-6business hours 647

662

IND

EX C-D

CCable Bay 153Cambridge 181-3campervans 656camping 329, 641canoeing & kayaking 50, 51

Abel Tasman National Park 416

Auckland 75, 77Blenheim 393-4Cambridge 182Franz Josef Glacier 450Hahei 208Havelock 392Kaikoura 399Marlborough Sounds 388-9Mountain Valley 340National Park Village 272-3Nelson 405New Plymouth 222Ohakune 274-5Ohope 315-16Okarito 446Paihia 144Puhoi 119Punakaiki 436Raglan 176Rotorua 287Taupo 256Tauranga 300Tauranga Bay 152Urupukapuka Island 147Waiheke Island 103Wellington 358Whanganui National

Park 241Whangarei 131

Canterbury 59, 457, 460, 458-9

accommodation 457climate 457food 457highlights 458-9Māori culture 469travel seasons 457travel to/from 460

canyoning 114, 198Cape Kidnappers 349Cape Palliser 378Cape Reinga 155-7Caples Track 561, 560car travel 656-8Cardrona 572-3Carterton 380-1carving 629, 631Castlepoint 380

cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals

Catlins, the 595-9, 596caves

Abbey Caves 129-30Aranui Cave 188Cathedral Caves 597Crazy Paving & Box

Canyon Caves 434Harwoods Hole 418Honeycomb Hill Caves &

Arch 434Kawiti Glowworm Caves

147Muriwai’s Cave 312Ngarua Caves 418Rawhiti Cave 419Ruakuri Cave 188Ruatapu Cave 258Te Anau Glowworm

Caves 577Waitomo Caves 13, 187-8

cell phones 20, 648Central Plateau 58Centre of NZ 405Charleston 435-6children, travel with 55-6

Auckland 81Christchurch 468Queenstown 548Wellington 363

Christchurch 59, 457, 460-77, 461, 464-5

accommodation 470-2activities 467-8children, travel with 468climate 457, 643courses 468drinking & nightlife 474-5earthquakes 462entertainment 475festivals & events 470food 457, 472-4highlights 458history 460information 475-6itineraries 467Māori culture 469medical services 475shopping 475sights 460, 462-3, 466-7tours 469-70travel seasons 457travel to/from 460, 476travel within 476-7

churches & cathedralsChrist Church Cathedral

403Holy Trinity Cathedral

68-9

St Faith’s Anglican Church 281

St Mary’s Church 68-9St Patrick’s Basilica 514St Patrick’s Cathedral 66St Paul’s Church 143-4St Peter’s Anglican

Church 481Taranaki Cathedral

Church of St Mary 220Transitional Cathedral 463

cinema 632, 635, see also films

Claris 109classical music 636-7Clay Cliffs Paritea 509Cleddau Valley 585climate 20, 23-6, 643, see

also individual regionsClyde 537coffee 53Colac Bay 589Collingwood 421-2Colville 203consulates 643-4Cook, Captain James 612Coopers Beach 153Coroglen 207Coromandel Forest Park 201Coromandel Peninsula 57,

166, 195-215, 168, 196accommodation 166climate 166food 166highlights 168history 195Māori culture 169travel seasons 166

Coromandel Town 200-2Craters of the Moon 254crayfish 399credit cards 647Cromwell 538-9Cullen Point Lookout 392culture 608-9, 626-33Curio Bay 595-6curling 533currency 647customs regulations 642-3cycling 49, 654, see

also mountain bikingAlps 2 Ocean Cycle

Trail 501Banks Peninsula 479Bay of Islands 138Cambridge 182Christchurch 468Gisborne 329Great Taste Trail 409Hauraki Rail Trail 197

Hawke’s Bay 341Mangawhai 127Mapua 410Martinborough 377Nelson 405New Zealand Cycle Trail 50Nga Haerenga, New

Zealand Cycle Trail 50, 341

Old Goast Road 22, 430-1Otago Central Rail Trail

536Pou Herenga Tai Twin

Coast Cycle Trail 138Rotorua 288Taupo 255Turangi 263Waiheke Island 103Wairarapa, the 377West Coast Wilderness

Trail 439

Ddance 632dance music 638dangers 658, see also

safetyDargaville 164-5Days Bay 366debit cards 647disabilities, travellers with

649-50discount cards 643diving 50

Auckland 77Bay of Islands 136Goat Island Marine

Reserve 121-2Great Barrier Island 109Kerikeri 149Milford Sound 585Paihia 145Picton 385Tairua 210Tauranga 300Tutukaka Coast 134Whakatane 312-13

dolphins 481, 595, 623, 11swimming with 136, 300,

312-13, 399Doneraille Park 331Doubtful Sound 587-8Doubtless Bay 153-4drinking & nightlife 25,

53, see also individual locations

drinks, see beer, winedriving, see car travelDunedin 60, 518-27, 520

accommodation 508, 522-3

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

663IN

DEX D

- Hactivities 521-2drinking & nightlife

525-6entertainment 526food 508, 523-5information 526-7Māori culture 511shopping 526sights 518-19, 521travel to/from 527travel within 527

Duntroon 512D’Urville Island 388DVDs 645

Eearthquakes 462, 621East Cape 322-35East Coast 58, 319-50,

320-1accommodation 319climate 319highlights 320-1Māori culture 325travel seasons 319

economy 608-9electricity 643Ellery Lake 456embassies 643-4emergencies 21environmental issues 622,

624-5etiquette 630events, see festivals &

eventsexchange rates 21extreme sports 23, 48-51,

see also individual sports

FFairlie 498Farewell Spit 421festivals & events 23-6,

see also individual locations

Art Deco Weekend 24, 340

Artists Open Studios & Festival of Glass 26, 235

Auckland City Limits 22, 24, 79

Bay of Islands Jazz & Blues Festival 25-6, 139

Beervana 25, 362Bluff Oyster & Food

Festival 25Clyde Wine & Food

Festival 24

Festival of Lights 23, 222Fringe NZ 23-4, 361Kaikoura Seafest 26Marlborough Wine &

Food Festival 23, 394Matariki 25, 362National Jazz Festival

24, 300Nelson Arts Festival

26, 406New Zealand Festival

23, 361New Zealand Gold Guitar

Awards 25New Zealand

International Comedy Festival 25, 81, 361

New Zealand International Film Festival 25, 81, 362

NZ Tattoo & Art Festival 26, 222

Oamaru Victorian Heritage Week 26

Pasifika Festival 24, 79Queenstown Winter

Festival 25Rhythm & Vines 26, 329Russell Birdman 25, 139Splore 24, 79Taranaki International

Arts Festival 25, 222Te Matatini National

Kapa Haka Festival 24Toast Martinborough

26, 378Waitangi Day 23, 145Wellington Sevens

23, 361Wildfoods Festival 24,

444WOMAD 24, 222World Buskers

Festival 23World of WearableArt

Awards Show 26, 362, 406

film locations 183, 192, 369, 418

films 608Finn, Neil & Tim 180, 637Fiordland 60, 575, 577-88,

576accommodation 575climate 575food 575highlights 576, 577travel seasons 575travel to/from 577

fishing 264Coromandel Town 200Kaikoura 399Kawhia 186

Mountain Valley 340Rotorua 288Taupo 258-9Tauranga 300Turangi 263Whangamata 211

flag debate 609Fletcher Bay 203food 25, 52-4, see also

individual locationsForgotten World Hwy 229Fort Taiaroa 528-9Fox Glacier 451-4, 452, 33Foxton 249Franz Josef Glacier 447-51,

448, 12French Pass 388Frying Pan Lake 295

Ggalleries, see museums &

galleriesgannets 116, 349gay travellers 644

Auckland 79, 93Gemstone Bay 208geography 620-1geology 620-1Geraldine 496-8geysers 621Gibbston Valley 550Gisborne 325-31, 326glaciers 447Glenorchy 559-62glowworms 188, 443,

577, 13Golden Bay 418-22golf 259, 288Gore 592Granity 430Great Barrier Island 109-

13, 110Great Coast Road 435-7Great Taste Trail 409Great Walks 38-40, 243,

38, see also tramping, walks

Greenstone Track 561, 560Greymouth 437-40, 438Greymouth Region 437-41Greytown 380

HHaast 454-5Haast Pass Highway 455-6Haast Region 454-6Hahei 207-9haka 631Hamilton 169-75, 172

hang gliding 48-9Nelson 405

hangi 287Hanmer Springs 484-7, 485Hari Hari 445Hastings 344-9, 345Hauraki Gulf 9, 100-13Havelock 392-3Hawera 232-3Hawke’s Bay 335-50, 336health 644-5Heaphy Track 16, 422, 16Hector 430Helena Bay 135Helensville 116-17helihiking 449, 453, 505heliskiing 44, 505Hells Gate 295Hicks Bay 323hiking, see Great Walks,

tramping, walksHillary, Sir Edmund 503Hillary Trail 113-14hip-hop 637Hiruharama 239history 23, 610-19

20th century 617-19connections to Britain

617-18European settlement

611-14Land Wars 614-16Māori settlement 610-11

hitching 658Hobbit, The 183, 192Hokianga 159-62Hokitika 441-5, 442Hokitika Gorge 442-3holidays 647-8Hollyford Track 582-3Hollyford Valley 584Homer Tunnel 585Hone Heke 143Horeke 160Horopito 272horse racing 79horse riding

Ahipara 158Aoraki/Mt Cook National

Park 506Bay of Islands 137Baylys Beach 164Blenheim 394Cardrona 573Catlins, the 598East Cape 323Farewell Spit 421Franz Josef Glacier 450Glenorchy 561Hastings 345-6

664

IND

EX H- M

horse riding continuedMackenzie Country 499Marahau 414Mountain Valley 340Nelson 405Ohakune 274Paekakariki 375Pakiri 122Palmerston North 249Peel Forest 493Punakaiki 436Rotorua 288Selwyn District 489Westport 431Whanganui 235

hostels 641-2hot springs

Franz Josef Glacier 450Hanmer Springs 484Kawhia 185Lewis Pass 484Matamata 184Miranda 197Morere Springs Scenic

Reserve 331Mt Maunganui 304Taupo 253, 255-6Tekapo Springs 499Turangi 264Waihi 213Waikite Valley 297Waiwera 118

hot-air ballooning 170Hot Water Beach 209, 256hotels 642Hukutaia Domain 317

Iimmigration 652Inglewood 229insurance 645-6internet access 646internet resources 21

history 610, 615, 618Invercargill 590-4, 591itineraries 31-5

JJackson Bay 456jetboating 49-50

Bay of Islands 138Buller Gorge 427Hahei 208Opotiki 317

Queenstown 545Rotorua 285Taumarunui 193Taupo 258Waiatoto River 456Westport 431Whanganui National Park

241-2

KKahurangi National Park

422-3Kai Iwi Lakes 163Kaikoura 11, 398-402,

400, 33Kaitaia 157-8Kaiteriteri 413Kaka Point 599Kapiti Coast 373-6Kapiti Island 374Karamea 433-5Karangahake Gorge 214-15Karekare 114Karikari Peninsula 154-5Katikati 308-9kauris 120, 162-3, 165, 204Kawakawa 147Kawau Island 108-9Kaweka J 350Kawhia 185-6kayaking, see canoeing &

kayakingAoraki/Mt Cook National

Park 505-6Doubtful Sound 588Milford Sound 585Otago Peninsula 529Stewart Island 604Wanaka 568

kea 623Kenepuru Sound 392-3Kennedy Bay 203Kepler Track 580-1, 581Kerikeri 147-51, 148Key Summit 584King Country 185-95, 171Kingitanga 186Kiritehere 191kiteboarding 50, 405kitesurfing 179kiwifruits 310kiwis 187, 283, 599, 602,

623Kohukohu 159-60Koriniti 239kotuku 446Kowhitirangi 443Kuaotunu 204Kuirau Park 281Kumara 441

Kumeu 115-16Kurow 512

LL&P 215Lake Brunner 441Lake Ferry 378Lake Hanlon 433Lake Hauroko 588Lake Hawea 573-4Lake Hayes 564Lake Kaniere 442Lake Karapiro 182Lake Mahinapua 445Lake Manapouri 587Lake Mistletoe 584Lake Moeraki 455Lake Pukaki 499Lake Rotorua 281Lake Roxburgh 535Lake Ruataniwha 501Lake Tarawera 295Lake Taupo Region 250,

251-66, 252accommodation 250climate 250food 250highlights 252travel seasons 250

Lake Tekapo 498-500Lake Tutira 336Lake Waikareiti 333Lake Wakatipu 542Lake Wilkie 597Land Wars 615language 20Larnach Castle 529Lauder 534legal matters 646Leigh 121-2lesbian travellers 644

Auckland 79, 93Levin 249Lewis Pass 484-5LGBTI travellers 644Ligar Bay 420literature 632-3, 634, see

also booksLoch Cameron 501Lord of the Rings, The

183, 635Lorde 638Lyttelton 477-8

MMacetown 566Mackenzie Country 497Mahia Peninsula 331Maitai Bay 155

Makarora 574Maketu 309-10Manapouri 587Manawatu Gorge 249Mangawhai 126-8Mangonui 153Māori people 15, 23-4,

159, see also individual regions

arts 253, 282, 287culture 626-33, 634, 15food 287

maps 646Mapua 410marae 630

East Cape 332Kawhia 185-6Maniaroa 193Motuti 159Papatea Bay 322Te Araroa 323Wellington 357Whakatane 311-12

Marahau 414marine mammals 623-5markets 25-6, 53Marlborough Region 59,

382, 383-402, 384accommodation 382climate 382food 382highlights 384Māori culture 388travel seasons 382wineries 396-7, 395

Marlborough Sounds 388-90, 389

Marokopa 191Martinborough 377-80Masterton 380-1Matakana 120-1Matakohe 165Matamata 183-4Matapouri 134Matauri Bay 151-2Matheson Bay 121Matiu-Somes Island 366Mayor Island 308measures 645medical services 645Methven 490-2Middlemarch 532Milford Sound 18, 585-7, 18Milford Track 582, 583Mill Bay 153Miranda 195-7Mirror Lakes 584moa 622-3Moana 441mobile phones 20, 648

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

665IN

DEX M

- NMoeatoa 191Moeraki 517-18Mohaka Viaduct 336Mokau 192-3, 226Mokena Geyser 185Molesworth Station 486money 21, 643, 646-7Moriori people 611motels 642motorcycle travel 656-8motorsports 538Motueka 411-13, 412Motuihe Island 101Motuora Island 108Moturiki Island 304Motutapu Island 101Motuti 159mountain biking 49, see

also cyclingAlexandra 535Gibbston Valley 550Great Barrier Island 109Helensville 116Kaiteriteri 413Mt Te Aroha 184National Park Village

272-3Ohakune 274, 275Old Ghost Road 22Opotiki 317Queen Charlotte Track

390Queenstown 547Rotorua 286Skyline MTB Gravity

Park 22, 286Takaka Hill 418Taupo 255Wanaka 568Wellington 358Whanganui National

Park 243Moutere Hills 409-11Moutoa Island 239Moutuhora (Whale Island)

315movies, see filmsMt Aspiring National

Park 569Mt Cook (Aoraki) 503-7, 5Mt Eden 67-8Mt Hikurangi 323Mt Hutt 491Mt John 499Mt Karioi 179Mt Maunganui 304-8, 305Mt Ngauruhoe 267Mt Pirongia 179Mt Pureora 194Mt Ruapehu 266-7

Mt Somers 492Mt Taranaki (Egmont

National Park) 226-8, 2Mt Titiraupenga 194Mt Tongariro 267Mt Tutoko 585Murchison 427-8Muriwai Beach 116museums & galleries

Akaroa Museum 481Auckland Art Gallery 65Auckland Museum 68Bill Richardson Transport

World 22, 590Canterbury Museum 463Christchurch Art Gallery

22, 462City Gallery Wellington

353E Hayes & Sons 590Edwin Fox Maritime

Museum 383, 385Fun Ho! National Toy

Museum 229Gold Discovery Centre 213Govett-Brewster Art

Gallery 220Hokitika Craft Gallery 443Hokitika Glass Studio 443International Antarctic

Centre 467Kauri Museum 165Len Lye Centre 22, 217MOTAT (Museum of

Transport & Technology) 73

Museum of Waitangi 22, 143

National Army Museum 277

National Transport & Toy Museum 566

New Zealand Cricket Museum 356

New Zealand Maritime Museum 67

New Zealand Rugby Museum 244-5

Omaka Aviation Heritage Centre 393

Quake City 463Rotorua Museum 279,

281Sir Edmund Hillary

Alpine Centre 503Southland Museum & Art

Gallery 590Steampunk HQ 513Te Ana Māori Rock Art

Centre 494Te Hikoi Southern

Journey 589Te Manawa 245

Te Papa 357Te Uru Waitakere

Contemporary Gallery 113

Torpedo Bay Navy Museum 72

Vintage Car & Machinery Museum 496-7

Volcanic Activity Centre 253-4

Waitomo Caves Discovery Centre 188-9

Wellington Museum 356Weta Cave 356World of Wearable Art &

Classic Cars Museum 406

music 95, 636-8, see also festivals

MV Rena 306

NNapier 336-44, 338Naseby 533National Park Village 272-4national parks & reserves

625, 624, see also zoos & wildlife reserves

Abel Tasman National Park 14, 414-18, 415, 15

Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park 503-7, 504-5

Aorangi (Haurangi) Forest Park 378

Arthur’s Pass National Park 489

Bellbird Bush Scenic Reserve 336

Boundary Stream Scenic Reserve 336

Canaan Downs Scenic Reserve 418

Cave Stream Scenic Reserve 490

Coromandel Forest Park 201

Fiordland National Park 577-88

Grove Scenic Reserve 419Hemi Matenga Memorial

Park Scenic Reserve 376

Hinewai Reserve 478Kahurangi National Park

422-3Kaimai Mamaku Forest

Park 300Lake Mahinapua Scenic

Reserve 445Long Bay Regional

Park 117

Mahurangi Regional Park 119

Mangapohue Natural Bridge Scenic Reserve 191

Mimiwhangata Coastal Park 135

Morere Springs Scenic Reserve 331

Mt Aspiring National Park 569

Mt Taranaki (Egmont National Park) 226-8

Ngaiotonga Scenic Reserve 136

Ohinetonga Scenic Reserve 194

Omahuta Forest 151Opouahi Scenic Reserve

336Otatara Pā Historic

Reserve 339Paparoa National Park

436-7Parry Kauri Park 120Piripiri Caves Scenic

Reserve 191Pirongia Forest Park 179Pukeahu National War

Memorial Park 22Puketi Forest 151Pureora Forest Park 194Rangikapiti Pa Historic

Reserve 153Redwoods Whakare-

warewa Forest 283Ruapekapeka Pa Historic

Reserve 143Ruataniwha Conserva-

tion Park 502Sanctuary Mountain

Maungatautari 181Scandrett Regional

Park 119Shakespear Regional

Park 117Tangoio Falls Scenic

Reserve 336Tawharanui Regional

Park 120Te Paki Recreation

Reserve 155-6Te Urewera National Park

332-5Tongariro National Park

266-70, 14Trounson Kauri Park 163Victoria Forest Park 429Waipatiki Scenic Reserve

336Waipoua Forest 162Wairere Boulders Nature

Park 160

666

IND

EX N- R

national parks & reserves continued

Wenderholm Regional Park 118

Westland Tai Poutini National Park 447-54

Whangamumu Scenic Reserve 136

Whanganui National Park 238-44

Whangaruru North Head Scenic Reserve 136

Wharerata State Forest 331

Whirinaki Forest Park 295

White Pine Bush Scenic Reserve 336

Nelson 59, 403-9, 404Nelson Lakes National Park

423-4Nelson Region 382, 403-

24, 384accommodation 382climate 382food 382highlights 384travel seasons 382

New Plymouth 217-25, 221newspapers 645Ngakawau 430Ngarupupu Point 191Ngawi 378Ngunguru 134Ninety Mile Beach 155-7Northland 57, 123-65,

124-5accommodation 123climate 123food 123highlights 124Māori culture 128travel seasons 123

Northland War 143Nugget Point (Tokatā) 599Nydia Bay 392

OOakura 230-1Oamaru 512-17, 514Oban 603Ohakune 274-6Ohinemutu 281Ohope 315-16Okarito 446Okato 231

Omahuta Forest 151Omakau 534Omapere 161-5Omarama 509One Tree Hill 73Onepoto Bay 323Onga Onga 349-50Oparara Basin 434opening hours 647opera 636-7Operiki Pa 239Ophir 534Opito 204Opononi 161-5Opotiki 317-18Opoutere 211Opunake 231-2Orakei Korako 258Orewa 118Oriuwaka Ecological Area

295Orokawa Bay 212Otago 17, 60, 508-39, 510

accommodation 508climate 508food 508highlights 510Māori culture 511travel seasons 508travel to/from 509

Otago Central Rail Trail 536, 17

Otago Peninsula 16, 528-31, 530-1, 16

Otorohanga 186-7Owaka 598-9Owhango 194-5

Ppa 118Paaku 210Pacific Coast Hwy 322-5paddleboarding

Bay of Islands 137National Park Village 272Opoutere 211Raglan 176Tauranga 300Wellington 358

Paekakariki 375Paeroa 215Paihia 142-7, 144Pakiri 122Palmerston North

244-9, 245Pancake Rocks 436Papamoa 308Paparoa National Park 436-7Papatea Bay 322

Papatowai 597-8paragliding 48-9

Hastings 346Nelson 405Otago 511Queenstown 547Wanaka 568

Paraparaumu 375-6parasailing 50, 138, 547Paritutu 220passports 652Pauanui 209-10Peel Forest 493-4Pelorus Bridge 393Pelorus Sound 392-3penguins 513, 515, 528,

529, 595phonecards 649Picton 383-8, 386Piercy Island (Motukokako)

138Piha 114-15Pinnacles, the 201Pio Pio 192-3Pipiriki 239planning

budgeting 21calendar of events 23-6children 55-6extreme sports 48-51food & drink 52internet resources 21itineraries 31-5New Zealand basics 20-1New Zealand’s regions

57-60repeat visitors 22skiing & snowboarding

43-7, 45tramping 36-42travel seasons 20, 23-6

Pohara 420-1politics 608-9Poor Knights Islands 134-5population 609Port Chalmers 527-8Port Charles 203postal services 647Pounawea 598Poutu Point 165public holidays 647-8public transport 658Puhoi 119Pukearuhe 225Puketi Forest 151Puketui Valley 210-11Punakaiki 436-7Pureora Forest Park 194

QQueen Charlotte Track

390-2Queenstown 18, 60, 540-

59, 541, 544, 546, 552, 19

accommodation 540, 551-4

activities 543-5, 547-8children, travel with 548climate 540, 643drinking & nightlife

556-7entertainment 557festivals & events 550-2food 540, 554-6highlights 541history 541-2information 558itineraries 545Māori culture 543shopping 557-8sights 542-3tours 548-50travel seasons 540travel to/from 541, 558travel within 558-9

RRabbit Island/Moturoa 410radio 645rafting, see white-water

raftingRaglan 175-8, 177Rainbow Warrior 152Ranana 239Ranfurly 532-3Rangatira 374Rangipo Desert 276Rangiputa 155Rangiriri 167Rangitoto Island 101Rapahoe 437Raukokore 322-3Raurimu 272Rawene 160-1Rawhiti 136Reefton 428-30reggae 637religion 628rental accommodation 642responsible travel 40Riverstone 517Riverton 589Roaring Bay 599rock climbing 49

Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park 503, 505

Hamilton 170Mt Maunganui 304

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

667IN

DEX R

- TOamaru 515Ohakune 275Queenstown 543Raglan 175Rotorua 286Te Awamutu 180Turangi 264Wanaka 568

rock music 637Ross 445Rotokura Ecological

Reserve 275Rotoroa Island 107-8Rotorua 13, 58, 278, 279-

94, 280, 284, 296, 12accommodation 278,

289-91activities 283climate 278drinking & nightlife

292-3entertainment 293food 278, 291-2highlights 280information 293-4itineraries 282Māori culture 281shopping 293sights 279-83tours 288-9travel seasons 278travel to/from 294travel within 294

Routeburn Track 559-61, 560, 24

Roxburgh 535Ruahine Ranges 350Ruapehu Region 250,

266-77, 252accommodation 250climate 250food 250highlights 252travel seasons 250

Ruatoria 323Ruby Coast 409-11rugby 14, 23, 244-5, 361, 14Russell 139-42, 140

Ssafety 37, 267, 648, 658sailing 481

Abel Tasman National Park 417

Auckland 75Bay of Islands 137, 138Paihia 145Taupo 259Tauranga 300Wellington 358

Whitianga 205Sanctuary Mountain

Maungatautari 181sandboarding 161Sandy Bay 134scenic flights

Bay of Islands 139Fox Glacier 453Franz Josef Glacier

449-50Golden Bay 419Hokitika 443Kaikoura 400-1Motueka 411Mt Taranaki (Egmont

National Park) 228Rotorua 288Taupo 259Tauranga 300Tongariro National

Park 270Whakaari (White Island)

315Whataroa 446

scuba diving, see divingsea kayaking 481seals 378, 399, 528Seddonville 430Selwyn District 488-9Shannon 249Ship Creek 455skiing & snowboarding 17,

43-7, 45Awakino 47, 512Broken River 47, 488Canterbury 45, 47Cardrona 44-5, 573, 46Cheeseman 47, 488Coronet Peak 44, 547,

17, 46Craigieburn Valley 47, 488Fairlie 498Fox Peak 45, 498Hanmer Springs 47, 485internet resources 44Manganui 44, 227Methven 490-1Mt Dobson 45, 498Mt Hutt 45, 491Mt Lyford 47, 485Mt Olympus 47, 488Mt Sutton 501Ohau 45, 501Otago 47Porters 45, 47, 488Queenstown 44, 547-8Rainbow 47, 424Remarkables, the 44,

547Roundhill 45, 499

Selwyn District 488Snow Farm 45, 573Taranaki 44Temple Basin 47, 488Tongariro National Park

44, 270Treble Cone 44, 547Tukino 44, 270Turoa 44, 270Wanaka 44-5Whakapapa 44, 270

skydiving 49Fox Glacier 453Franz Josef Glacier

449-50Glenorchy 561Methven 491Motueka 411Queenstown 547Taupo 256, 258Tauranga 300Wanaka 568Whangarei 131

Snell, Peter 231snowboarding, see skiing &

snowboardingQueenstown 547-8

Southern Scenic Route 589Southland 60, 575, 588-

606, 576accommodation 575climate 575food 575highlights 576, 577travel seasons 575travel to/from 577

sports, see individual sports

Springfield 488-9St Arnaud 423-4St Bathans 533-4State Highway 25 204Stewart Island 599-606,

600, 603Stingray Bay 208Stirling Point 594Stonehenge Aotearoa 380Stony Bay 203Stratford 229-30Surf Highway 45 230-3surfing 51

Ahipara 158Auckland 77Christchurch 468Curio Bay 595Dunedin 521Gisborne 328Kaikoura 398Manu Bay 179Mt Maunganui 304

New Plymouth 220-1Ngarunui Beach 179Oakura 230Ohope 316Opunake 231Raglan 176, 179Tutukaka Coast 135Whale Bay 179Whangamata 211

Surville Cliffs 156

Tta moko (Maori tattooing)

629Taihape 277Taipa 153Tairua 209-10takahe 623Takaka 418-20Takaka Hill 418Tapu 200Tarakohe Harbour 420Taranaki 58, 216-49,

218-19accommodation 216climate 216food 216highlights 218Māori culture 226travel seasons 216

Tasman, Abel 613Tasman Glacier 507Tasman Lake 507Tata Beach 420Taumarunui 193-4Taumatawhakatangihang-

akoauauotamateaturi-pukakapikimaungahoro-nukupokaiwhenuakitan-atahu 349

Taupo 58, 251-62, 254, 257

accommodation 259-60activities 255-9drinking & nightlife 261-2entertainment 262food 261Māori culture 256shopping 262sights 253-4tours 259travel to/from 262travel within 262

Taupo Bay 153Tauranga 298-304, 299Tauranga Bay 151-2Tauranga Bridge 322Tautuku Bay 597Tawarau Forest 191taxes 647, 653

668

IND

EX T- W

taxis 658Te Anau 577-80, 578Te Anau–Milford Highway

584-5Te Araroa 41, 323Te Aroha 184-5Te Awamutu 180-1Te Henga (Bethells Beach)

115Te Kaha 322Te Kooti 333Te Kuiti 192Te Mata Peak 344Te Papa 357Te Puia 282Te Puia Springs 323Te Puke 310Te Urewera National Park

332-5Te Waewae 589Te-Waha-O-Rerekohu 323Te Waikoropupū Springs

419Te Whakarewarewa 282telephone services 20,

648-9Thames 197-9, 198theatre 632Three Sisters 226Tikitiki 323Timaru 494-6, 495time 649tipping 647Tiritiri Matangi Island 108Titirangi 113Tititea/Mt Aspiring 569toilets 649Toi’s Pa 312Tokomaru Bay 323Tolaga Bay 323Tongariro National Park 14,

266-70, 268, 14tourist information 649train travel 19, 658tramping 25, 36-42, see

also Great Walks, walksAbel Tasman National

Park 414-17Auckland 77Cambridge 182Cape Reinga 156Coromandel Coastal

Walkway 203Coromandel Forest

Park 201Croesus Track 440

Fox Glacier 451-3Franz Josef Glacier 449Gisborne 328Great Barrier Island

109, 111Kahurangi National Park

422-3Kaikoura 398, 399Kaimai Mamaku Forest

Park 300Kapiti Island 374Karamea 433Karangahake Gorge

214-15Kerikeri 149Mangapurua/

Kaiwhakauka Track 242-3

Mangawhai 126Matemateāonga Track

242Mt Taranaki (Egmont

National Park) 227Mt Te Aroha 184National Park Village

272-3Nelson Lakes National

Park 423-4New Plymouth 221-2Nydia Track 392Ohakune 274Oparara Basin 434Paparoa National Park

436Punakaiki 436Pureora Forest Park 194Queen Charlotte Track

390Rotorua 286-7Takaka 419Tarawera Trail 297Taupo 255Tawarau Forest 191Te Urewera National Park

332-3Tolaga Bay 323Tongariro National Park

267-70Turangi 263Victoria Forest Park 429Waiheke Island 103Waitakere Ranges 113-14Waitomo Caves 190Westport 430-1Whakapapa Village 271Whangamata 211Whanganui National Park

242-3Whangarei Heads 134Whangaroa Harbour 153Whirinaki Forest Park

295

TranzAlpine Railway 19, 469, 19

travel to/from New Zealand 652-3

travel within New Zealand 653-8

travellers cheques 647Treaty of Waitangi 614trekking, see Great Walks,

tramping, walkstrout 264Tryphena 109Tuatapere 588-9tuataras 181, 621Tuhua (Mayor Island) 308tui 623Turangi 262-6, 263Tutukaka 134Tutukaka Coast 134-5TV 635, 645Twizel 500-2

UUlva Island 601Upper Moutere 410Urupukapuka Island 147, 11

Vvegetarian travellers 53visas 650visual arts 635-6volcanoes 68, 620-1

Maunganui Bluff 163Moutuhora (Whale

Island) 315Mt Eden 67-8Mt Ngauruhoe 267Mt Ruapehu 266-7Mt Taranaki 226-7, 2Mt Tongariro 267One Tree Hill 73Rangitoto Island 101Tuhua (Mayor Island)

308Whakaari (White Island)

315, 322volunteering 650

WWaihau Bay 323Waiheke Island 9, 102-7,

104, 8-9Waihi 212-14Waihi Beach 212-14Waikanae 376Waikato 57, 166, 167-85,

168, 171accommodation 166climate 166

food 166highlights 168history 167Māori culture 169travel seasons 166

Waikawa 596-7Waikawau 191Waikawau Bay 203Waimamaku 162Waimangu Volcanic Valley

294-5Wainui Bay 420Waioeka Gorge 322Wai-O-Tapu Thermal

Wonderland 295, 12Waiotemarama 162Waiouru 276-7Waipara Valley 487-8Waipiro Bay 323Waipoua Forest 162-3Waipukurau 349Wairarapa, the 376-81Wairoa 335-6Waitakere Ranges 113-14Waitaki Valley 511-12Waitangi 142-7Waitomo Caves 13, 187-91,

189, 13Waiwera 118wakeboarding 256walks, see Great Walks,

trampingAlexandra-Clyde 150th

Anniversary Walk 535, 537

Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park 503, 505

Arthur’s Pass 489Banks Peninsula Track

479Blue Pools Walk 574Bridle Track 574Caples Track 561, 560Catlins River-Wisp Loop

Track 598Chasm Walk 585Dusky Track 587, 588Gibbston River Trail 550Gillespie Pass 574Glenorchy Walkway 559Greenstone Track 561, 560Haast Pass Lookout

Track 574Hollyford Track 582, 584Hooker Valley Track 505Hump Ridge Track 588Kea Point Track 505Kepler Track 580-1, 581Lake Gunn Nature Walk

584Lake Hayes Walkway 564

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

669IN

DEX W

-Z Lake Sylvan Tramp 559Milford Track 582, 583Minaret Burn Track 567Mt Cargill-Bethunes

Gully Walkway 522Mt Iron 567Mt Somers 492North West Circuit Track

603Peel Forest 493Queenstown 543Rakiura Track 602-3Rob Roy Glacier Track

569Routeburn Nature Walk

559Routeburn Track 559-61,

560, 24Sealy Tarns Track 505Stewart Island 602-3Tasman Glacier 507Tongariro Alpine

Crossing 40, 267-9, 14Tunnel Beach Walkway

522West Matukituki Valley

Track 569Wilkin Valley Track 574

Wanaka 60, 540, 566-72, 541, 567

accommodation 540, 569-70

activities 566-8climate 540drinking & nightlife 571-2entertainment 572festivals & events 569food 540, 570-1highlights 541, 542information 572Māori culture 543shopping 572sights 566tours 568-9travel seasons 540travel to/from 541, 572travel within 572

Wanganui, see WhanganuiWarkworth 119-20weather 20, 23-6, see

also individual regionsweaving 631websites, see internet

resourcesweights 645Wellington 10, 59, 353-73,

354-5, 360-1, 10accommodation 351,

362-5activities 358-60children, travel with 363

climate 351drinking & nightlife

368-9entertainment 369-70festivals & events 361-2food 351, 365-7highlights 352information 371itineraries 358Māori culture 374shopping 370-1sights 353-8tours 360-1travel seasons 351travel to/from 371-2travel within 372-3walking tours 359, 359

Wellington Region 59, 352accommodation 351climate 351food 351Māori culture 428highlights 352travel seasons 351

Wellington Sevens 23, 361West Coast 13, 59, 425-56,

426accommodation 425climate 425food 425highlights 426travel seasons 425

Westland 441-6Westland Tai Poutini

National Park 447-54Westport 430-3weta 622Whakaari (White Island)

315, 322Whakaipo Bay 256Whakapapa Village 271-2Whakarewarewa Village

282Whakatane 310-15, 311Whale Bay 134whales 399, 623Whananaki 134Whangamata 211-12Whangamomona 229Whangamumu Harbour 136Whanganui 58, 216, 233-8,

218-19, 234, 240Whanganui National Park

238-44Whanganui River Road 239Whangaparaoa (Cape

Runaway) 323Whangapoua 204Whangarei 129-33, 130-1Whangarei Heads 133-4

Whangaroa Harbour 152-3Wharariki Beach 421, 24Whareorino Forest 191Whataroa 446Whenuakite 207White Cliffs 225white herons 446whitebait 443white-water rafting 51

Buller Gorge 427-8East Cape 324Franz Josef Glacier 450Kaikoura 398-9Mohaka River 350Mountain Valley 340Opotiki 317Queenstown 545Rangitata River 493Reefton 429Rotorua 287Taihape 277Turangi 263-4

Whitianga 204-7wi-fi 646wildlife reserves, see zoos

& wildlife reservesWilsons Bay 200windsurfing

Ocean Beach 179Tauranga 300Wellington 358

wine 25, 54, see also wineries

festivals 23, 24, 26, 103, 145, 329, 378, 394

wineriesAuckland 98Gibbston Valley 550Gisborne 328Hawke’s Bay 346Kaitaia 157Karangahake Gorge 215Karikari Peninsula 155Katikati 309Kerikeri 148-9Kumeu 115-16Mangawhai 126Marlborough 396-7, 24Mt Difficulty 539Napier 340Otago 512Queenstown 549Richmond 410Rotorua 283Russell 140Tauranga 298-9Waiheke Island 102Waipara Valley 487Wairarapa, the 377

Wanaka 566Warkworth 120

women travellers 650work 651

Zziplining 103, 283, 285, 548zoos & wildlife reserves,

see also bird parksAroha Island 148Auckland Zoo 73Blue Penguin Colony 513Farewell Spit 421Goat Island Marine

Reserve 121Hamilton Zoo 170Hanmer Springs Animal

Park 484Kiwi Birdlife Park 542Kiwi North 130Kotuku Sanctuary 446Motuara Island 388Nature’s Wonders

Naturally 528Nga Manu Nature

Reserve 376Orana Wildlife Park 467Orokonui Ecosanctuary

528Owlcatraz 249Paradise Valley Springs

283Penguin Place 529Point Kean Seal Colony

398Poor Knights Marine

Reserve 135Pukaha Mt Bruce

National Wildlife Centre 381

Punanga Manu o Te Anau 577

Rainbow Springs 283Royal Albatross Centre

528-9Sugar Loaf Islands

Marine Park 220Te Angiangi Marine

Reserve 349Te Whanganui-A-Hei

Marine Reserve 205Ulva Island 601Wellington Zoo 357West Coast Wildlife

Centre 448-9Wharekawa Wildlife

Refuge 211Willowbank Wildlife

Reserve 467Yellow-Eyed Penguin

Colony 513Zealandia 353

670

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Gate

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Map Legend

Peter Dragicevich Auckland, Dunedin & Otago, Queenstown & Wanaka, Fiordland & Southland After nearly a decade working for off-shore publishing companies, Peter’s life has come full circle, returning to his home city of Auckland. As Managing Editor of Express newspaper he spent much of the nineties writing about the local arts, club and bar scene. This is the 5th edition of the New Zealand guidebook to which he has contrib-uted and, after dozens of Lonely Planet assignments, it remains his favourite gig.

Contributing Writers Professor James Belich wrote the History chapter. James is one of NZ’s pre-eminent histor ians and the award-winning author of The New Zealand Wars, Making Peoples and Paradise Reforged. He has also worked in TV – New Zealand Wars was screened in NZ in 1998.

Tony Horwitz wrote the Captain James Cook boxed text in the History chapter. Tony is a Pulitzer- winning reporter and nonfiction author. His fascination with James Cook, and with travel, took him around NZ, Australia and the Pacific while researching Blue Latitudes (alternatively titled Into the Blue), part biography of Cook and part travelogue.

John Huria (Ngai Tahu, Muaupoko) wrote the Māori Culture chapter. John has an editorial, research and writing background with a focus on Māori writing and culture. He was senior editor for Māori publishing company Huia and now runs an editorial and publishing services company, Ahi Text Solutions Ltd (www.ahitextsolutions.co.nz).

Josh Kronfeld wrote the Surfing in New Zealand boxed text in the Extreme New Zealand chapter. Josh is an ex–All Black flanker, whose passion for surfing NZ’s beaches is legendary and who found travelling for rugby a way to surf other great breaks around the world.

Gareth Shute wrote the Music section in the Arts & Music chapter. Gareth is the author of four books, including Hip Hop Music in Aotearoa and NZ Rock 1987–2007. He is also a musician and has toured the UK, Europe and Australia as a member of the Ruby Suns and the Brunettes. He now plays in indie soul group The Cosbys. Vaughan Yarwood wrote the Environment chapter. Vaughan is an Auckland-based writer whose books include The History Makers: Adventures in New Zealand Biography, The Best of New Zea-land: A Collection of Essays on NZ Life and Culture by Prominent Kiwis, which he edited, and the regional history Between Coasts: From Kaipara to Kawau. He has written widely for NZ and inter-national publications and is the former associate editor of New Zealand Geographic, for which he has also written for many years.

Read more about Peter at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/peterdragicevich

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415318th edition – Sep 2016ISBN 978 1 78657 024 6© Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 201610 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Charles Rawlings-Way Taranaki & Whanganui, East Coast (North Island), Wellington English by birth, Australian by chance, All Blacks fan by choice: Charles’s early understanding of Aotearoa was less than comprehensive (sheep, mountains, sheep on moun-tains...). He realised there was more to it when a wandering uncle returned with a faux-jade tiki in 1981. He wore it with pride until he saw the NZ cricket team’s beige uniforms in 1982... Mt Taranaki’s snowy summit, Napier’s art deco deliv-

erance and Whanganui’s raffish charm have helped him forgive: he’s once again smitten with the country’s phantasmal landscapes, disarming locals, and determination to sculpt its own political and indigenous destiny. Charles also wrote the Planning, Understand and Survival Guide chapters.

Brett Atkinson Bay of Islands & Northland, Waikato & Coromandel Peninsula, Taupo & the Cen-tral Plateau, Rotorua & the Bay of Plenty Born in Rotorua, but now a proud res-ident of Auckland, Brett explored the top half of New Zealand’s North Island for this edition. Excursions to Northland, the Coromandel Peninsula and Tongariro National Park echoed family holidays from an earlier century, and rediscovering his home town also evoked great memories. Brett’s contributed to Lonely Planet

guidebooks spanning Europe, Asia and the Pacific, and covered around 50 countries as a food and travel writer. See www.brett-atkinson.net for his latest adventures.

Sarah Bennett & Lee SlaterMarlborough & Nelson, West Coast (South Island), Christchurch & Canterbury Sarah and Lee specialise in NZ travel, with a particular focus on outdoor adven-ture including hiking, mountain biking and camping. In addition to five editions of the New Zealand guidebook, they are also co-authors of Lonely Planet’s Hiking & Tramping in New Zealand and New Zealand’s Best Trips. Read more at www.bennettandslater.co.nz. Sarah and Lee also wrote the Skiing & Snowboarding,

Hiking and Extreme New Zealand chapters.

OUR WRITERS

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Dublin, Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OVERPAGE

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© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’