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All-French comfortsChef Kenny Yeo enlightened guests on how to inject an element of sophisticated simplicity into four rustic French dishes. By Maria Singh

E picure’s recent masterclass was a spirited celebration of rustic, homestyle French cooking and delivering it with punch and panache was Kenny Yeo, executive chef to Keppel Club’s Tables by the Bay. For one, Yeo, who honed his culinary skills at three

Michelin-starred Le Centenaire in France with fellow homegrown talent Justin Quek, showed his guests the show-stopping way to set a lobster ablaze.

“Flambé the shelled flesh only when it is half-cooked. This way it won’t turn rubbery after the alcohol has burned off,” he said. It was this tip along with many others that kept guests like air stewardess Christina Khaira; freelance copywriter Nithiya Nedun; homemaker Karen Phua; director of an auto accessories company Mandy Low; administrator for Boeing International Jenny Teo; undergraduate Eileen Loo; and business development manager of a wine company Claire Fleureau entertained.

LOBSTER COOKINGAfter showing everyone how to sauté lobster with a quick lick of Grand Marnier-induced flames, Yeo presented this first dish five minutes later. Bowled over by the flamboyant display, some guests even got to the plated dish before our photographer, snapping pictures enthusiastically with their mobile phones. “For reference,” Clarissa Lowe, a realtor, enthused, “when I try making this at home.”

Who knew the crustacean would form such a formidable pairing with the bitter orange liqueur? Systems manager Jody Chua was taken by the surprising sweet tinges and relatively effortless cooking technique. “Not only am I learning how to artfully set my food on fire, I now know it is necessary for the alcohol to evaporate off so kids can enjoy this too,” she quipped.

MAKING JUSIt helped that the masterclass was conducted at Yeo’s restaurant, which is reminiscent of a Mediterranean seaside cafe. White washed walls and sky blue tones set a rustic, ambient feel and the ideal environment to tuck into a hearty oxtail stew and potato gratin, the second dish of the day. Questions like how to make veal jus from scratch, and how to achieve a fall-off-the-bone texture for a tough cut of meat were raised. Yeo took time to explain the importance of quick searing to seal in natural juices and the necessary dredging of oxtail in flour to keep its delicious essence from seeping out in the braising process.

Yeo responded to Nedun's earlier query of making jus for the stock: “Reserve beef or veal trimmings, combine with tomato paste and vegetable stock, and spruce with fresh herbs at the last stage.” Angeline Tan, manager of an auto company, was most keen on mastering the creamy dish of layered baked potatoes. The chef combined thinly-sliced Russets with milk and set it on a slow simmer. “Starches from the potatoes are released on cooking so it’s not vital to use a thick cream for this recipe or it might get too rich. It is necessary, however, to keep stirring so they don’t stick to the pan and burn,” he stressed.

FRENCH DE-LITEFor dessert, Yeo demonstrated how to make sabayon. As he turned his attention to the whisking of eggs, sugar, vanilla and rum over a water bath, he shared another tip, “When cooking over a bain-marie, never allow the water temperature to rise above 90°C. Any hotter and you run the risk of scrambling eggs or burning chocolate.”

Guests were affixed as the pale yellow liquid began to foam and triple in volume before it was poured over waiting banana slices. Like crème brûlée, a final layer of sugar was gratinated by a blow torch and caramelised. While the dessert tantalised with its sweet notes, it was the sabayon’s airy texture that got the all-round thumbs up, “It’s so light and tasty! I imagine it’d be just as lovely over berries and other soft fruit,” said Phua. >

“When cooking over a bain-marie, never allow the water temperature to rise above 90°C. Any hotter and you run the risk of scrambling eggs or burning chocolate.”—Chef Kenny Yeo

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medium high heat in a pan. Working in batches, and making sure not to crowd the pan, sear the oxtails on all sides till golden brown. Set aside.• Using the same pan, saute the vegetables till soft and lightly browned. • Fill a stock pot with veal jus and bring to a boil. Add in the red wine, herbs, pan seared oxtails and vegetables and braise on low heat for 6-8 hours.

POTATO GRATIN Serves 4 Prep time 30 minutesCook time 40 minutes

750g U.S. potatoes, like Russet350ml full fat milk2 egg yolks75g grated Parmesansalt and pepper to taste

• Preheat oven to 160°C. Peel and cut potatoes into thin slices. Simmer in a pot filled with milk for 10-15 minutes, stirring occasionally. The milk should have reduced to a thicker consistency by this time.• Remove from heat and add egg yolks, stirring to combine evenly.• Spread the potatoes on a baking tray. Sprinkle with grated Parmesan and season to taste.• Bake for 20 minutes or until cheese is

golden brown. • Cut into slices and serve.

SABAYON WITH BANANASServes 4 Prep time 15 minutesCook time 20 minutes

4 egg yolks1 vanilla pod, seeds scraped and reserved30ml water 100g fine sugar25ml Myer’s dark rum30ml whipping cream2 large bananas, thinly sliced icing sugar, for dusting

• In a large mixing bowl, combine egg yolks, vanilla, water and sugar. Set over a bain-marie on low heat (not more than 90°C) and whisk until mixture turns pale and creamy.• Add rum to the egg mixture and whisk until light and airy, about 10-15 minutes.• Whip cream and fold in gently to the egg mixture. Stir to achieve an even consistency. • Pour sabayon into 4 ramekins till half full. Then top each with thinly sliced bananas and the remaining mixture. • Sprinkle with icing sugar and gratin with a blow torch for 10-15 seconds till a caramelised top layer forms. e

LOBSTER GRAND MARNIER WITH GREENSServes 4 Prep time 5 minutesCook time 5 minutes

2 lobster tails, shelled and halved5g unsalted butter10ml Grand Marnier80g salad greens of choice

• Heat pan on low fire and add butter. Once melted, add shelled lobster tails and sauté gently till half cooked, about 2 minutes.• Add Grand Marnier, flambé and sauté for another 2 minutes.• Plate on top of salad greens and serve.

OXTAIL STEW Serves 4 Prep time 30 minutesCook time 6-8 hours

800g oxtail, cut into pieces plain flour, for coating1 tbsp olive oilI large onion, chopped1 large carrot, chopped1 large celery, chopped1 large leek, chopped1 large shallot, chopped1 litre veal jus2 cups dry red winefresh thyme and rosemary sprigs

• Lightly coat the oxtails with flour.• Heat 1 tbsp of olive oil on medium to

“I’m French myself and I found these dishes to be homey, authentic and excellent.” —Claire Fleureau