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Different hair types, perfect conditioning. Specific solutions for hair.

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Page 1: Different hair types, perfect conditioning. · 2017-08-25 · Control shampoo Benchmark silicone emulsion shampoo Silicone Quaternium-16 ABIL T Quat 60 shampoo ABIL T Quat 60 conditioner

Different hair types,perfect conditioning.Specific solutions for hair.

Page 2: Different hair types, perfect conditioning. · 2017-08-25 · Control shampoo Benchmark silicone emulsion shampoo Silicone Quaternium-16 ABIL T Quat 60 shampoo ABIL T Quat 60 conditioner

Contents Page

Today’s hair conditioning 02-09Consumers hair types & demands 03-05Conditioning agents 06-07Benefits for individual needs 08-09

Test results 10-17Conditioning 11Sustainable conditioning 12-13Color care, Volume, UV light protection 14-15Anti hair breakage, Heat protection, Gloss 16-17

Conditioning map 18-19Shampoo 18Conditioner 19

Conditioner table 20-23Silicone conditioning agents 20Organic conditioning agents 22

Formulation ideas 24-27

Specialized hair conditioning

Today‘s hair types require individual solutions. The variety of hair differs around the globe, from curly to straight and from thin to thick. Additionally, differences in the climate have to be managed. Several treatments, like coloring and straightening the hair, cause various degrees of damage to the hair. Beautiful looking hair is important for self confidence and requires appropriate care with the right shampoo and conditioner. The demand on modern conditioning ingredients is to fulfill consumer needs of high convenience combined with high performance. Our conditioning agents are made to smoothen, protect, volumize and refresh hair and keep or bring it to its best condition. Evonik‘s portfolio covers professional conditioning agents to evolve the beauty of every hair type. Explore our product range to find out which product is right for your hair.

Page 3: Different hair types, perfect conditioning. · 2017-08-25 · Control shampoo Benchmark silicone emulsion shampoo Silicone Quaternium-16 ABIL T Quat 60 shampoo ABIL T Quat 60 conditioner

Detang

ling /

wet

comb

Wet

feel

Dry co

mbing f

orce r

educ

ed

Dry co

mbing f

orce i

ncrea

sed

Dry fee

l

Gloss /

shine

Hold of

hairs

tyle (

reduc

ed cu

rl droo

p)

Straig

htenin

g effec

t (weig

hing d

own)

Volume /

body

Antista

tic eff

ect

Wash

fastn

ess / co

lor pr

otecti

on

UV prote

ction

Hea

t prot

ectio

n

fine

virgin ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯

permed ▯ ▯ ▯

dyed ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯

Caucasian

Fine to medium texture and can be straight, wavy or curly. Oval cross section with color ranging from dark brown to light blond. Due to its thin diameter, volume is the most desired wish.

normal

virgin ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯

grey/white ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯

permed ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯

dyed ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯

Asian

On average, it is the thickest hair compared to other ethnic hair types. Typically straight with a round cross section. Color varies from medium brown to black. Gloss and straight-ening effect desired.

straight

virgin ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯

permed ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯

dyed ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯

Hispanic / Mulatto

Medium to thick textured hair, which can be wavy or have a more defined curl. Color typically light to dark brown. Frizz and manageability is a necessity to maintain desired effect.

curly

virgin ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯

straightened ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯

dyed ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯

African

Afro-textured, tightly coiled, spiral or kinky. Color ranges from dark brown to black and has an elliptical cross section. Due to its tightly coiled shape, sebum is unable to spread evenly along the hair fiber. Therefore, oil treatments are common.

kinky

virgin ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯

straightened ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯

dyed ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯

▯ essential ▯ important

Global hair types and their specific conditioning demands

| 0504

Page 4: Different hair types, perfect conditioning. · 2017-08-25 · Control shampoo Benchmark silicone emulsion shampoo Silicone Quaternium-16 ABIL T Quat 60 shampoo ABIL T Quat 60 conditioner

Organics

Quat type Structure Trade name INCI name Conc. %

MonoalkylVARISOFT 300

VARISOFT BT 85 Pellets

Cetrimonium Chloride

Behentrimonium Chloride

~30

~85

DialkylVARISOFT 432 PPG

VARISOFT TA 100

Dicetyldimonium Chloride

Distearyldimonium Chloride

~70

~99

Esterquat

VARISOFT EQ 65 Pellets

VARISOFT EQ 100

Distearoylethyl Dimonium Chloride; Cetearyl Alcohol

Quaternium-98 (proposed)

~65

~99

Imidazolinium VARISOFT W 575 PG Quaternium-87 ~75

Amidoquat VARISOFT PATC Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride ~60

Amidoamine TEGO Amid S 18 Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine ~99

Organmodified silicones

Silicone type Structure Trade name INCI name Conc. %

Silicone Quatcationic ABIL T Quat 60 Silicone Quaternium-22 ~65

Silicone Quat microemulsioncationic ABIL ME 45

Silicone Quaternium-22;Polygyceryl-3 Caprate; Dipropylene Glycol; Cocamidopropyl Betaine

~30

Silicone Quatcationic ABIL Quat 3272 Quaternium-80 ~50

Aminofunctional Silicone ABIL Soft AF 100 Methoxy PEG/PPG-7/3Aminopropyl Dimethicone ~99

Silicone Betaineamphoteric ABIL B 9950 Dimethicone Propyl PG-

Betaine ~30

Silicone UV Quatcationic ABIL UV Quat 50 Polysilicone-19 ~50

Alkyl Polyether Silicone

Conditioning agentsEvonik comprehensive portfolio of conditioning agents

n = 1 or 7N Cl

N XO

O

O R

RO

NN

R

N MeOSO3RH

O

(R = C15 - C17)

n = 1 or 3N Cl

N NH

ClO

N NH

O

NH2

UV abs.UV abs.

| 0706

Page 5: Different hair types, perfect conditioning. · 2017-08-25 · Control shampoo Benchmark silicone emulsion shampoo Silicone Quaternium-16 ABIL T Quat 60 shampoo ABIL T Quat 60 conditioner

Our best choice of products and their benefits for individual hair needs

Conditioning rinse Conditioning shampoo

Detangling, wet combability • VARISOFT EQ 65 Pellets• VARISOFT EQ 100• VARISOFT BT 85 Pellets• VARISOFT 432 PPG

Synergistic combinations of organic quats plus• ABIL ME 45• ABIL T Quat 60

• ABIL ME 45• ABIL T Quat 60• ABIL Quat 3272• VARISOFT EQ 100

Wet feel • VARISOFT EQ 65 Pellets• VARISOFT EQ 100• VARISOFT BT 85 Pellets• VARISOFT 432 PPG

Synergistic combinations of organic quats plus• ABIL ME 45• ABIL T Quat 60

• ABIL ME 45• ABIL T Quat 60• ABIL Quat 3272• VARISOFT EQ 100

Dry combability (improved) • VARISOFT TA 100• VARISOFT 432 PPG Synergistic combination of organic quats plus• ABIL ME 45

• ABIL ME 45• ABIL T Quat 60• ABIL Quat 3272

Dry combability (reduced = improvement of hold)

• VARISOFT W 575 PG• VARISOFT PATC• TEGO Amid S 18

• ABIL Soft AF 100

Dry feel • VARISOFT EQ 65 Pellets• VARISOFT EQ 100• VARISOFT BT 85 Pellets• VARISOFT PATC

Synergistic combinations of organic quats plus• ABIL ME 45• ABIL T Quat 60

• ABIL ME 45• ABIL T Quat 60

Gloss / shine • ABIL ME 45• TEGO Amid S 18

Conditioning rinse Conditioning shampoo

Volume/body • TEGO Amid S 18• VARISOFT W 575 PG• ABIL Soft AF 100

• ABIL Soft AF 100• ABIL B 9950

Straightening/weighing down effect Elevated use levels of:• VARISOFT BT 85 Pellets• VARISOFT 432 PPG• VARISOFT EQ 100

Synergistic combinations of organic quats plus• ABIL ME 45• ABIL T Quat 60

• ABIL ME 45• VARISOFT EQ 100

Anti-fly-away/antistatic • VARISOFT W 575 PG• VARISOFT TA 100• VARISOFT 300• TEGO Amid S 18

• ABIL Soft AF 100

Style retention/anti-frizz • ABIL Soft AF 100 (reduced weighing down)• VARISOFT TA 100• VARISOFT 432 PPG• ABIL ME 45

• ABIL ME 45

Color care • VARISOFT BT 85 Pellets• ABIL ME 45• ABIL UV Quat 50

• ABIL ME 45• ABIL UV Quat 50• ABIL B 9950• ABIL T Quat 60

Heat protection • ABIL ME 45• ABIL T Quat 60

Anti hair breakage • ABIL ME 45• ABIL T Quat 60

• ABIL ME 45• ABIL T Quat 60

| 0908

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Specialized hair careAs an innovative and reliable partner in hair care, Evonik Personal Care focuses on creating ingredients with superior features while maintaining consistent quality.

We set great value upon the effectiveness of our high-end products and we constantly work on developing new hair conditioning ingredients.

Based on profound expertise and qualified test methods, Evonik Personal Care has established a conditioner portfolio that addresses the following consumer needs:

→ Conditioning→ Color care→ UV protection→ Volume→ Anti hair breakage→ Heat protection→ Gloss

Conditioning

ABIL ME 45Premium conditioning

Test formula: shampoo9.0% Sodium Laureth Sulfate3.0% Cocamidopropyl Betaine0.2% PQ-10varying % a.m. Silicone Quat0.5% NaCl2.5% ANTIL 171ad 100% water, pH = 5.5

ABIL ME 45 shows excellent conditioning performance

Test formula: rinse0.5 % Ceteareth-202.0 % Cetyl Alcohol1.0 % active conditioning agentad 100% water, pH = 5

Best wet comb scoring for VARISOFT BT 85 Pellets

VARISOFT BT 85 PelletsExcellent conditioning

Wet combability - hair sensory results

Score difference to CTAC (%)

Control

VARISOFT 432 PPG

TEGO Amid S 18

VARISOFT BT 85 Pellets

VARISOFT W 575 PG

VARISOFT TA 100

VARISOFT PATC

VARISOFT 300 (CTAC)

-60 -40 -20 0 20 40

■ Statistically different to CTAC (Duncan Multiple Range Test)

| 1110

Sensory assessment – shampoo application

score (5=best)

Detangling

Wet comb

Wet feel

0 1 2 3 4

■ PQ-10 + 1.0% a.m. ABIL ME 45 ■ PQ-10 + 0.3% a.m. ABIL ME 45 ■ PQ-10 ■ Control

Page 7: Different hair types, perfect conditioning. · 2017-08-25 · Control shampoo Benchmark silicone emulsion shampoo Silicone Quaternium-16 ABIL T Quat 60 shampoo ABIL T Quat 60 conditioner

VARISOFT EQ 65 PelletsSustainable conditioning

VARISOFT EQ 100Premium sustainable conditioning

Test formula: rinse0.5% Ceteareth-255.0% Cetearyl Alcohol1.0% active Quatad 100% water, pH = 4.1

VARISOFT® EQ 100 outperforms Behentrimonium Chloride (BTAC)

Half-head test results (score difference) - VARISOFT EQ 65 Pellets vs. CTAC

CTAC better VARISOFT® EQ 65 Pellets better

Rinseability

Wet comb

Wet feel

Dry comb

Dry feel

Curl retention

Shine

Body/volume

Antistatic

Managebility

Build-up directly

Build-up later

-1.0 -0.8 -0.6 -0.4 -0.2 0 0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8 1.0

Conducted externally by an independent test institute (2007)

Test formula: rinse0.5% Ceteareth-255.5% Cetearyl Alcohol2.0% active Quatad 100% water, pH = 4.5

VARISOFT EQ 65 Pellets outperforms Cetrimonium Chloride (CTAC)

Half-head test results (score difference) – VARISOFT® EQ 100 vs. BTAC

BTAC better VARISOFT® EQ 100 better

Skin feel

Rinseability

Skin feel after rinse

Detangling wet

Wet comb

Wet feel

Detangling dry

Dry comb

Dry feel

Curl retention

Shine

Body/volume

Antistatic

Managebility

Build-up directly

Build-up later

-1.0 -0.8 -0.6 -0.4 -0.2 0 0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8 1.0

Conducted externally by an independent test institute (06/14)

| 1312

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Test formula: rinse0.5% Ceteareth-252.0% Cetyl Alcohol2.0% active conditioning agent (combination 1% + 1%)ad 100% water, pH = 4.0 +/- 0.3

ABIL Soft AF 100 compensates negative impact on volume caused by organic Quats

ABIL Soft AF 100Improved volume

Volume

Sensory assessment - volume/body

Control

Cetrimonium Chloride

Behentrimonium Chloride

Distearyldimonium Chloride

ABIL® Soft AF 100

Cetrimonium Chloride + ABIL® Soft AF 100

Behentrimonium Chloride + ABIL® Soft AF 100

Distearyldimonium Chloride + ABIL® Soft AF 100

0 1 2 3 4

score (5 = best)

Test formula: shampoo9.0% Sodium Laureth Sulfate3.0% Cocamidopropyl Betaine0.5% active Silicone Quat0.15% Cationic Quatad 100% water, pH = 5.5 +/- 0.2

Test formula: shampoo9.0% Sodium Laureth Sulfate3.0% Cocamidopropyl Betaine1.0% active Silicone Quat 0.2% Polyquaternium-100.5% NaCl2.5% ANTIL 171ad 100% water, pH = 5.5

ABIL UV Quat 50 and ABIL ME 45 improve the color wash fastness properties of shampoos.ABIL T Quat 60 provides good wash fastness

ABIL UV Quat provides up to 50% reduction in color fading

ABIL UV Quat 50, ABIL ME 45, ABIL T Quat 60Improved color wash fastness

ABIL UV Quat 50Color protection against UV fading

Color care

Color wash fastness – shampoo application

Color fading

20 x washing

15 x washing

10 x washing

5 x washing

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

ΔE-value (the smaller, the better)

■ ABIL UV Quat 50 ■ ABIL T Quat 60 ■ ABIL ME 45 ■ Control

Color fading measurements

Color fading after irridation with sun simulator

Control (Guar Quat)

ABIL UV Quat 50

0 1 2 3

ΔE-value (the smaller, the better)

Test formula: rinse0.5% Ceteareth-252.0% Cetyl Alcohol2.0% active Quatad 100% water, pH = 4.0 +/- 0.3

ABIL® UV Quat 50 provides approx. 40% protection against damaging UV light

ABIL UV Quat 50Excellent UV protection of hair fibers

UV protection

Tensile strength test results

Decrease of hair strength vs. undamaged hair, after irridation with sun simulator

Control CTAC

ABIL UV Quat 50

0 1 2 3 4 5

Δ-Load 15% (mN/mm2)

| 1514

Page 9: Different hair types, perfect conditioning. · 2017-08-25 · Control shampoo Benchmark silicone emulsion shampoo Silicone Quaternium-16 ABIL T Quat 60 shampoo ABIL T Quat 60 conditioner

Samba gloss measurements

Gloss improvement (%)

6

5 *

4

3

2

1

0UL 5737/5 w/o ABIL ME 45 UL 5737/5

* Statistically differerent to control (T-Test)

Hair breakage

Number of broken fibers after 10000 brushing strokes

120

100

80

60

40

20

0

Control shampoo Benchmark silicone emulsion shampoo

Silicone Quaternium-16

ABIL T Quat 60 shampoo

ABIL T Quat 60 conditioner

Mean Mean±SE Mean±SDConducted by external test institute (2012)

ABIL T Quat 60Reduced hair fiber breakage

ABIL ME 45Improved hair gloss

Test formula: shampoo9.0% Sodium Laureth Sulfate2.5% Cocamidopropyl Betaine1.0% active Silicone Quat0.3% PQ-101.0% Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride (VARISOFT PATC)0.9% REWODERM LI S 800.2% NaClad 100% water, pH = 5.5

Test formula: conditioner0.5% Ceteareth-255.0% Cetyl Alcohol1.0% active ABIL T Quat 60ad 100% water, pH = 4.5

Formulations containing ABIL T Quat 60 significantly reduce hair fiber breakage

Test formula: conditioner UL 5737/54.5% Cetearyl Alcohol3.0% Aminopropyl Dimethicone3.0% ABIL ME 451.0% Oleyl Erucate2.0% VARISOFT TA 100ad 100% water1.50% VARISOFT BT 85 Pellets2.0% Glycerin0.25% Citric Acid, 30%

ABIL ME 45 improves gloss significantly out of a conditioner application

Anti hair breakage

Heat protection

Gloss

ABIL ME 45Excellent heat protection

Test formula: rinse0.5% Ceteareth-255.0% Cetyl Alcohol1.0% CTAC 0.0/1.0% a.m. Silicone Quatad 100.0% water, pH = 4

ABIL® ME 45 provides significant heat protection (Ø 75%)

Heat protection – conditioning rinse

DSC measurement

ABIL ME 45 + CTAC

CTAC

145 147 149 151 153

Keratin denaturation temperature [°C]

■ 9x10 sec ■ 3x10 sec ■ blank, non straightened Treatment with flattening iron at 200°C

| 1716

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Shampoo

Thick, coarse

Fine

Light conditioning Intensive conditioning

Increasing level of damage

Hai

r typ

e

Incr

easin

g us

age

leve

l [%

]

Hai

r typ

e

Incr

easin

g us

age

leve

l [%

]

Conditioning mapDegree of conditioning can be adjusted by usage concentration

VARISOFT 300VARISOFT PATC ABIL T Quat 60

VARISOFT EQ 65 Pellets

TEGO Amid S 18VARISOFT W 575 PG

ABIL ME 45VARISOFT BT 85 Pellets

VARISOFT EQ 100

VARISOFT TA 100VARISOFT 432 PPG

ABIL Soft AF 100

VARISOFT PATC ABIL Quat 3272

ABIL T Quat 60

ABIL ME 45

ABIL Soft AF 100 ABIL B 9950

Conditioner

Thick, coarse

Fine

Light conditioning Intensive conditioning

Increasing level of damage

| 1918

Page 11: Different hair types, perfect conditioning. · 2017-08-25 · Control shampoo Benchmark silicone emulsion shampoo Silicone Quaternium-16 ABIL T Quat 60 shampoo ABIL T Quat 60 conditioner

Silicone conditioning agents

Physical properties Improvement of Suitable for

Product name INCI name Benefits Characteristics FormActive matter

[%] Wet comb Wet feel Dry comb Dry feel Volume GlossAntistatic

propertiesColor

protectionHeat

protectionUV

protection ConditionerConditioning

shampoo

Silicone derivatives

ABIL B 9950 Dimethicone Propyl PG-Betaine

- Hair color protection- Volume enhancer - Low thinning effect

Conditioning agent for shampoos. Softens and smoothes hair. Improves manageability.

Liquid ~30 ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯

ABIL Quat 3272 Quaternium-80 - Improved combability- Soft and smooth hair feel

Conditioning agent for clear shampoos and shower products. Clearly soluble and compatible with anionics. Pleasant skin feel. No build-up effect.

Liquid ~50 ▯▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯

ABIL Soft AF 100 Methoxy PEG/PPG-7/3 Aminopropyl Dimethicone

- Improved combability- Antistatic effect- Volume enhancer

Conditioning agent for shampoos and hair rinses. Self-emulsifying in aqueous systems. Improves synergistically volume properties of alkyl quats. Suitable for clear formulations. No build-up effect.

Liquid ~99 ▯ ▯ ▯▯ ▯▯ ▯ ▯

ABIL T Quat 60 Silicone Quaternium-22 - Improved combability - Hair fiber protection- Hair heat protection

High performance conditioning agent with additional hair fiber protection properties. Low viscosity decreasing effect in surfactant formulas. Highly suitable for clear formulas. No build-up effect.

Liquid ~65 ▯▯ ▯▯ ▯ ▯▯ ▯ ▯ ▯▯ ▯ ▯

ABIL UV Quat 50 Polysilicone-19 - Hair fiber protection- Hair UV protection- Hair color protection

Hair fiber protection against damage by UV light: reduced UV fading of dyed hair and reduced damage of hair. Suitable for clear formulations. No build-up effect.

Liquid ~50 ▯ ▯ ▯▯ ▯▯ ▯ ▯

ABIL ME 45 Silicone Quaternium-22; Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate; Dipropylene Glycol; Cocamidopropyl Betaine

- Easy to process - Improved combability - Hair heat protection

Outstanding and intensive conditioning properties. Very easy to process microemulsion. Highly suitable for clear surfactant formulations. Highly effective at low concentrations. Liquid ~30 ▯▯▯ ▯▯▯ ▯▯ ▯▯▯ ▯ ▯▯ ▯▯▯ ▯ ▯

▯ Good test results ▯▯ Superior test results ▯▯▯ Best test results

| 2120

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Organic conditioning agents

Physical properties Improvement of Suitable for

Product name INCI name Benefits Characteristics FormActive matter

[%] Wet comb Wet feel Dry comb Dry feel Volume GlossAntistatic

propertiesColor

protectionHeat

protectionUV

protection ConditionerConditioning

shampoo

Alkyl quats

VARISOFT 300 Cetrimonium Chloride - Improved combability- Antistatic effect- Cost-efficient

Universal conditioning agent. Water-dispersible.

Liquid ~30 ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯

VARISOFT 432 PPG Dicetyldimonium Chloride - Improved combability- Soft and smooth hair feel - Easy to process

Conditioning agent especially suitable for hair treatments. Contains Propylene Glycol. Water-dispersible. Liquid ~70 ▯▯ ▯▯ ▯▯ ▯ ▯

VARISOFT BT 85 Pellets

Behentrimonium Chloride - Soft and smooth hair feel- Antistatic effect- Hair color protection

High performance conditioning agent. Excellent wet/dry feel and combing properties. Water-dispersible. Pellets ~85 ▯▯ ▯▯ ▯ ▯▯ ▯ ▯ ▯

VARISOFT TA 100 Distearyldimonium Chloride - Soft and smooth hair feel- High active matter- Improved combability

Highly active conditioning agent and emulsifier for hair conditioners. Antistatic effect. Powder ~96 ▯ ▯▯ ▯ ▯▯ ▯

Amide and ester derivatives

TEGO Amid S 18 Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine

- Volume enhancer- Improved combability- Gloss enhancer

Conditioning agent and emulsifier for hair rinses and conditioners. Improves wet and dry comb properties. Provides increased body and volume. Flakes ~99 ▯▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯▯ ▯ ▯ ▯

VARISOFT EQ 65 Pellets

Distearoylethyl Dimonium Chloride; Cetearyl Alcohol

- Improved combability- Soft and smooth hair feel- Rich appearance

Environmentally friendly conditioner with substantial biogradability. Primarily vegetable-based material. Pellets ~65 ▯▯ ▯▯ ▯ ▯▯ ▯

VARISOFT EQ 100 Quaternium-98 (proposed) - Soft and smooth hair feel- Easy to process- Thickening effect in

shampoos

Excellent condtioning agent especially on wet hair providing superior manageability, lubricity and softness. Primarily vegetable-based material, readily biodegradable. Liquid ~100 ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯

VARISOFT PATC Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride

- Antistatic effect- Compatible with anionic

surfactant- Soft and smooth hair feel

Outstanding conditioning agent with excellent antistatic properties. Suitable for clear formulas. Provides thickening effect.

Soft paste ~60 ▯ ▯ ▯▯ ▯ ▯ ▯

VARISOFT W 575 PG Quaternium-87 - Volume enhancer- Antistatic effect- Hair color protection

Improves wet and dry combability and provides increased body and volume. Primarily vegetable-based material. Water-dispersible. Liquid ~75 ▯ ▯ ▯▯ ▯▯ ▯ ▯

▯ Good test results ▯▯ Superior test results ▯▯▯ Best test results

| 2322

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Formulation ideas

Conditioning rinse for long and fine hair1

Trade name w/w

A TEGINACID C (Ceteareth-25) 0.5%

TEGO Alkanol 1618 (Cetearyl Alcohol) 3.0%

TEGO Amid S 18 (Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine) 0.7%

ABIL Soft AF 100 (Methoxy PEG/PPG-7/3 Aminopropyl Dimethicone) 0.7%

VARISOFT W 575 PG (Quaternium-87) 0.9%

B Propylene Glycol 1.0%

Water ad 100.0%

Citric Acid (20% sol. in water) 0.7%

Preservative, perfume q.s.

1UK 168/F/5

Processing

1. Heat phases A and B separately up to 65-70°C.2. Combine both phases and homogenize. 3. Cool down while stirring, add the perfume at approximately 40°C.

Benefits

Especially improves the volume and manageability of long and damaged hair.

Premium intensive conditioning hair mask for Asian hair1

Trade name w/w

A TEGO Alkanol 1618 (Cetearyl Alcohol) 5.0%

Aminopropyl Dimethicone 5.0%

ABIL ME 45 (Silicone Quaternium-22; Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate; Dipropylene Glycol; Cocamidopropyl Betaine) 3.3%

TEGINACID C (Ceteareth-25) 0.5%

VARISOFT 442 100 P (Quaternium-18 ) 2.0%

B TEGOSOFT OER (Oleyl Erucate) 1.0%

Argan Oil (Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil) 1.0%

C Water ad 100.0%

TEGO Cosmo C 100 (Creatine) 1.0%

VARISOFT BT 85 Pellets (Behentrimonium Chloride ) 2.0%

VARISOFT EQ 65 Pellets (Distearoylethyl Dimonium Chloride; Cetearyl Alcohol ) 2.0%

Citric Acid (30 % sol. in water) 0.3%

Preservative q.s.

Z Perfume „NUTRI“, fragrance resources 0.3%

1SV 188/6

Processing

1. Phase A: Blend ingredients and heat up to 70-75°C.2. Phase B: Dissolve the TEGO Cosmo C 100 carefully in the water. Add remaining ingredients. 3. Heat up to 80-85°C. The VARISOFT EQ 65 has to be melted.4. Combine phase A and phase B, homogenize for 1 minute, cool down while stirring.5. Add perfume and preservatives below 45°C.

Remarks

pH=5.0; Viscosity (Brookfield 25°C): 45000 mPas

Benefits

Heavy conditioning for thicker hair types (Asian, Ethnic), or strongly damaged hair.

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Formulation ideas

Cleansing conditioner/refatting conditioning shampoo (strongly damaged hair, afro-textured hair)1

Trade name w/w

A Water ad 100.0%

Polyquaternium-10 0.5%

Sodium Laureth Sulfate, 28% 10.7%

TEGO Betain F 50 (Cocamidopropyl Betaine) 7.9%

Glycerin 2.0%

B Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil 50.0%

VARISOFT EQ 100 (Quaternium-98 (proposed)) 1.0%

C TEGO Sulfosuccinate DO 75 (Diethylhexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate) 4.0%

Z Preservative, perfume q.s.

1UL 5761/67

Processing

1. Blend ingredients of phase A.2. Blend ingredients of phase B.3. Combine phase A and phase B, stirr sufficiently (approximately 20 minutes).4. Add TEGO Sulfosuccinate DO 75, stirr sufficiently (30 minutes).

Important

Avoid air entrapment

Remarks

pH=5.8; Viscosity (Brookfield 25°C): 7000 mPas

Benefits

2-in-1: intensive conditioning and refatting effect plus cleansing and foaming.

Intensive conditioner with strengthening property forrelaxed hair (afro-textured, mulatto hair)1

Trade name w/w

Water ad 100.0%

TEGO® Cosmo C 100 (Creatine) 1.0%

Glycerin 2.0%

VARISOFT® BT 85 Pellets (Behentrimonium Chloride) 2.0%

ABIL® ME 45 (Silicone Quaternium-22; Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate; Dipropylene Glycol; Cocamidopropyl Betaine) 1.7%

TEGO® Alkanol 1618 (Cetearyl Alcohol) 5.0%

Preservative, perfume q.s.

Citric Acid (30% sol. in water) 0.3%

1RB13-5802-102

Processing

One-phase production:1. Combine ingredients, heat to 75°C and homogenize.2. Cool while stirring. 3. Add preservatives and adjust pH to 4.5.

Remarks

Viscosity (Brookfield 25°C): 7000 mPas

Benefits

Formulation offers outstanding conditioning properties, while improving hair strength and feel of damaged hair.

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Evonik Industries AG Personal Care Goldschmidtstraße 100 45127 Essen GermanyP.O. Box, 45116 Essen Phone +49 201 173-2854 fax +49 201 173-712854 [email protected] www.evonik.com/personal-care