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    British Columbia Estuary Mapping System

    Table of contents

    Appendix A: Wave Exposure Calculation

    Wave processes are the dominant controlling process for shore morphology and sediment

    redistribution and are probably the dominant control of biota that use the shore zone.

    Consequently, it is important to have an index of wave exposure for each shoreunit.

    Ideally wave exposure estimates would be based on the consideration of wave energy units;

    however, the calculation of wave energy for a particular shore unit would involve the use of

    complex wave climate models that use wave fetch characteristics, historical wind climate

    measurements from shore stations with over-the-water corrections for the area under

    consideration, wave generation routines, and wave refraction and shoaling routines. Theapplication of these routines would be required for each shore unit.

    This method for estimating wave exposure is based on some standard engineering practices

    for estimating wave heights for a particular wind speed and direction. It was developed for

    the British Columbia Physical Shore-zone Classification (Howes et al. 1994). The method

    involves the consideration of the wave fetch window; that is, the open-water area offshore

    from the shoreunit over which waves can be generated by winds - the larger the fetch

    window, the greater the wave exposure.

    Estimation of wave exposure involves the consideration of two fetch indices: effective fetch

    and maximum fetch. The wave exposure estimates provided by this technique represent afirst approximation of wave exposure. Important controls such as the associated local wind

    climate and wave refraction are ignored for the sake of simplifying the estimate. As such, the

    Wave Exposure estimates provide a first-order estimate of wave energy expended within the

    shoreunit.

    Intertidal biotic assemblages have been used as an index of wave exposure categories and

    have been found to agree reasonably well with the Wave Exposure estimates defined from the

    "fetch model". Analysis of detailed ground survey stations of intertidal biota showed about

    75% agreement with the fetch model and about 85% agreement with video-imagery revisions

    of the "fetch model". In other words, the Wave Exposure categories defined as part of the

    fetch model agree with community assemblages observed in the field.

    Effective Fetch

    Effective fetch calculation involves the measurement of the fetch distance along several

    directions from a given point from the shore and is a standard engineering measurement for

    shore protection studies (CERC 1977).

    Wave fetch measurement values and exposure calculations

    Unit Shore Shore Left Right Max. Max. Effective Exposure

    http://www.ilmb.gov.bc.ca/risc/pubs/coastal/estuary/index.htmhttp://www.ilmb.gov.bc.ca/risc/pubs/coastal/estuary/index.htmhttp://www.ilmb.gov.bc.ca/risc/pubs/coastal/estuary/index.htm
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    Normal

    Azimuth

    (o)

    Normal

    Fetch

    (km)

    45o

    (km) 45o

    (km) Fetch

    Azimuth

    (o)

    Fetch

    (km)

    Fetch

    (km)

    Category

    A 135 15.7 8.2 19.5 131 29 14.6 SP

    B 066 19.0 13.0 11.0 073 40 14.9 SP

    C 035 13.5 11.5 50 082 75 23.6 SE

    To simplify the large number of measurements required for a mapping area (for example

    there are over 1,800 shore units mapped in the Southern Strait of Georgia), a "modified

    effective fetch" measurement was developed. The "modified effective fetch" technique

    involves the measurement of three fetch distances: the shore-normal or perpendicular to the

    general trend of the shore unit, 45o to the left of the shore-normal and 45o to the right of the

    shore normal.

    These three measurements are used to compute a modified effective fetch for the shoreunit

    based on the fetch equations:

    Maximum Fetch

    The wave climate of a particular point cannot be characterized by effective fetch alone

    because waves may be generated in an area remote from the shore unit and propagate into the

    area of the shore unit. These waves are commonly refered to as swell. A good BC example is

    that of the Juan de Fuca Strait where waves are generated locally (indexed by effective fetch)

    and are relatively small, but large swell, generated in the open Pacific, can penetrate into the

    Strait. The maximum fetch of a shoreunit is intended to provide an index of the swell waves

    and, to a lesser extent, refraction effects.

    The Maximum Fetch is the maximum fetch distance in kilometres that can be measured from

    a centre point of the estuary.

    Wave Climate Fields for Calculation of Estuary Wave Exposure

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    There are several wave climate data fields that need to be calculated to determine the wave

    exposure of the estuary. These are defined below:

    Maximum Fetch Direction - the azimuth (in degrees from true north) of the direction

    of the maximum fetch.

    Maximum Fetch Distance - the distance in kilometres of the maximum fetch as

    measured along the Maximum Fetch Direction.

    Shore Normal Direction - the azimuth (in degrees from true north) of the normal to

    the general orientation of the shore unit. That is, if the general trend of the shoreline is

    from northwest to southeast with open water to the east), then the Shore Normal

    Direction would be 45o.

    Fetch Distances - the distances in kilometres as measured along a line 45 o to the left

    of the Shore Normal, along the Shore Normal and along a line 45o to the right of the

    Shore Normal.

    Modified Effective Fetch - the distance in kilometres as calculated from the Fetch

    Distance Measurements.

    Exposure Category - the exposure category provides a summary indicator of wave

    exposure for the unit.

    The following classes of wave exposure have been utilized and are derived from knowledge

    of Maximum Fetch and Modified Effective Fetch. These are accompanied with the

    appropriate code for entry in the wave exposure attribute of the project and overview

    database, and definition.

    VP Very Protected : Maximum wave fetch less than one kilometre; usually the location

    of all-weather anchorages, marinas and harbours.

    P Protected: Maximum wave fetch less than 10 km; usually areas of provisional

    anchorages and low wave exposure except in extreme winds.

    SP Semi-protected: Maximum wave fetch distances in the range of 10 to 50 km.

    Waves are low most of the time except during high winds.

    SE Semi-exposed : Maximum wave fetch distances between 50 and 500 km. Swells,generated in areas distant from the shore unit create relatively high

    wave conditions. During storms, extremely large waves create

    high wave exposures

    E Exposed: Maximum wave fetch distances greater than 500 km. High

    ambient wave conditions usually prevail within this exposure

    category, which is typical of open-Pacific type conditions.

    Effective and maximum fetch wave exposure Matrix

    Modified effective fetch (km)

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    Maximum fetch

    (km)

    500

    500 N/a N/a Semi-exposed Exposed Exposed

    This procedure, although preliminary and subject to refinement, offers anobjective, repeatable basis for estimating wave exposure. Wave exposure, in turn,

    is of critical importance in determining species distribution, sediment mobility and

    a variety of other shore processes.

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    ravity Of General Materials Tabledata information resource for the specific gravity of many common general materials. While the data is extremely useful for desig

    ples will probably differ. Temperature and purity will often have a definite effect. As 1000kg of pure water @ 4C = 1 cubic meter,

    er 1000kg per cubic meter will float; more dense materials will obviously sink. Those materials have a specific gravity more than 1.

    he maximum density) was chosen as the accepted standard for specific gravity and given the value of 1. Some other standards se

    as sg = 1 so it is more correct to state the base used. The specific gravity of all other materials are compared to water as a fraction

    ter density, no matter how small or large the fraction is. For example, ammonium nitrate has a specific gravity (sg) of 0.73 while

    lphate has a sg of 1.13 (1130 kilograms/cubic meter). As specific gravity is just a comparison, it can be applied across any units. Th

    is also 62.4 lbs/cu.ft (pounds per cubic foot) and if we know that a sample of ammonium nitrate has a sg of 0.73 then we can calc

    73 x 62.4 = 45.552 lbs/cu.ft. As general information, kg/cu.m divided by 16.01846 = lbs/cu.ft.

    he table, unit converters are included at the top of the chart. Enter values in either side of the equation.

    be interested in theSpecific Gravity And Viscosity Of Liquids Table

    ty Of Liquids Table

    ty Of Wood Table

    ty Of Metals Table

    Unit Conversions

    Grams1

    =.001

    Kilograms

    Pounds per Cubic Foot1

    =16.01846

    Kilograms per Cubic Meter

    Specific Gravity Table

    Material - powder, ore, solids, etc. kg/cu.m

    Alfalfa, ground 256

    Alum, lumpy 881

    Alum, pulverized 753

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    Alumina 961

    Aluminum, oxide 1522

    Ammonia gas 0.77

    Ammonium Nitrate 730

    Ammonium Sulphate - dry 1130

    Ammonium Sulphate - wet 1290

    Andesite, solid 2771

    Antimony, cast 6696

    Apples 641

    Arsenic 5671

    Asbestos - shredded 320- 400

    Asbestos rock 1600

    Ashes - wet 730- 890

    Ashes - dry 570- 650

    Asphalt, crushed 721

    Babbitt 7272

    Bagasse 120

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    Bakelite, solid 1362

    Baking powder 721

    Barium 3780

    Bark, wood refuse 240

    Barley 609

    Barite, crushed 2883

    Basalt, broken 1954

    Basalt, solid 3011

    Bauxite, crushed 1281

    Beans, castor 577

    Beans, cocoa 593

    Beans, navy 801

    Beans, soy 721

    Beeswax 961

    Beets 721

    Bentonite 593

    Bicarbonate of soda 689

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    Bismuth 9787

    Bones, pulverized 881

    Borax, fine 849

    Bran 256

    Brewers grain 432

    Brick, common red 1922

    Brick, fire clay 2403

    Brick, silica 2050

    Brick, chrome 2803

    Brick, magnesia 2563

    Buckwheat 657

    Butter 865

    Cadmium 8650

    Calcium carbide 1201

    Caliche 1442

    Carbon, solid 2146

    Carbon, powdered 80

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    Carbon dioxide 1.98

    Carbon monoxide 1.25

    Cardboard 689

    Cement - clinker 1290-1540

    Cement, Portland 1506

    Cement, mortar 2162

    Cement, slurry 1442

    Chalk, solid 2499

    Chalk, lumpy 1442

    Chalk, fine 1121

    Charcoal 208

    Chloroform 1522

    Chocolate, powder 641

    Chromic acid, flake 1201

    Chromium 6856

    Chromium ore 2162

    Cinders, furnace 913

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    Cinders, Coal, ash 641

    Clay, dry excavated 1089

    Clay, wet excavated 1826

    Clay, dry lump 1073

    Clay, fire 1362

    Clay, wet lump 1602

    Clay, compacted 1746

    Clover seed 769

    Coal, Anthracite, solid 1506

    Coal, Anthracite, broken 1105

    Coal, Bituminous, solid 1346

    Coal, Bituminous, broken 833

    Cobaltite ( cobolt ore ) 6295

    Coconut, meal 513

    Coconut, shredded 352

    Coffee, fresh beans 561

    Coffee, roast beans 432

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    Coke 570- 650

    Concrete, Asphalt 2243

    Concrete, Gravel 2403

    Concrete, Limestone with Portland 2371

    Copper ore 1940-2590

    Copper sulfate, ground 3604

    Copra, medium size 529

    Copra, meal, ground 641

    Copra, expeller cake ground 513

    Copra, expeller cake chopped 465

    Cork, solid 240

    Cork, ground 160

    Corn, on the cob 721

    Corn, shelled 721

    Corn, grits 673

    Cottonseed, dry, de-linted 561

    Cottonseed, dry, not de-linted 320

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    Cottonseed, cake, lumpy 673

    Cottonseed, hulls 192

    Cottonseed, meal 593

    Cottonseed, meats 641

    Cottonwood 416

    Cryolite 1602

    Cullet 1602

    Culm 753

    Dolomite, solid 2899

    Dolomite, pulverized 737

    Dolomite, lumpy 1522

    Earth, loam, dry, excavated 1249

    Earth, moist, excavated 1442

    Earth, wet, excavated 1602

    Earth, dense 2002

    Earth, soft loose mud 1730

    Earth, packed 1522

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    Earth, Fullers, raw 673

    Emery 4005

    Ether 737

    Feldspar, solid 2563

    Feldspar, pulverized 1233

    Fertilizer, acid phosphate 961

    Fish, scrap 721

    Fish, meal 593

    Flaxseed, whole 721

    Flint - silica 1390

    Flour, wheat 593

    Flue dust 1450-2020

    Fluorspar, solid 3204

    Fluorspar, lumps 1602

    Fluorspar, pulverized 1442

    Fullers Earth - raw or burnt 570- 730

    Galena ( lead ore ) 7400 - 7600

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    Garbage, household rubbish 481

    Glass - broken or cullet 1290-1940

    Glass, window 2579

    Glue, animal, flaked 561

    Glue, vegetable, powdered 641

    Gluten, meal 625

    Gneiss, bed in place 2867

    Gneiss, broken 1858

    Granite, solid 2691

    Granite, broken 1650

    Graphite, flake 641

    Grain - Maize 760

    Grain - Barley 600

    Grain - Millet 760- 800

    Grain - Wheat 780- 800

    Gravel, loose, dry 1522

    Gravel, with sand, natural 1922

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    Gravel, dry 1/4 to 2 inch 1682

    Gravel, wet 1/4 to 2 inch 2002

    Gummite ( uranium ore ) 3890 - 6400

    Gypsum, solid 2787

    Gypsum, broken 1290-1600

    Gypsum, crushed 1602

    Gypsum, pulverized 1121

    Halite (salt), solid 2323

    Halite (salt), broken 1506

    Hematite ( iron ore ) 5095 - 5205

    Hemimorphite ( zinc ore ) 3395 - 3490

    Hydrochloric acid 40% 1201

    Ice, solid 919

    Ice, crushed 593

    Ilmenite 2307

    Iridium 22154

    Iron ore - crushed 2100-2900

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    Iron oxide pigment 400

    Iron Pyrites 2400

    Iron sulphate - pickling tank - dry 1200

    Iron sulphate - pickling tank - wet 1290

    Ivory 1842

    Kaolin, green crushed 1025

    Kaolin, pulverized 352

    Lead, rolledtd> 11389

    Lead, red 3684

    Lead, white pigment 4085

    Leather 945

    Lignite, dry 801

    Lime, quick, lump 849

    Lime, quick, fine 1201

    Lime, stone, large 2691

    Lime, stone, lump 1538

    Lime, hydrated 481

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    Lime, wet or mortar 1540

    Limonite, solid 3796

    Limonite, broken 2467

    Limestone, solid 2611

    Limestone, broken 1554

    Limestone, pulverized 1394

    Linseed, whole 753

    Linseed, meal 513

    Locust, dry 705

    Magnesite, solid 3011

    Magnesium oxide 1940

    Magnesium sulphate, crystal 1121

    Magnetite, solid ( iron ore ) 5046

    Magnetite, broken 3284

    Malachite ( copper ore ) 3750 - 3960

    Malt 336

    Manganese, solid 7609

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    Manganese oxide 1922

    Manure 400

    Marble, solid 2563

    Marble, broken 1570

    Marl, wet, excavated 2243

    Mica, solid 2883

    Mica, broken 1602

    Mica - flake 520

    Mica - powder 986

    Milk, powdered 449

    Molybdenum ore 1600

    Mortar, wet 2403

    Mud, packed 1906

    Mud, fluid 1730

    Nickel ore 1600

    Nickel, rolled 8666

    Nickel silver 8442

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    Nitric acid, 91% 1506

    Nitrogen 1.26

    Oak, red 705

    Oats 432

    Oats, rolled 304

    Oil cake 785

    Oil, linseed 942

    Oil, petroleum 881

    Oxygen 1.43

    Oyster shells, ground 849

    Paper, standard 1201

    Peanuts, shelled 641

    Peanuts, not shelled 272

    Peat, dry 400

    Peat, moist 801

    Peat, wet 1121

    Pecan wood 753

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    Phosphate rock, broken 1762

    Phosphorus 2339

    Pitch 1153

    Plaster 849

    Platinum ore 2600

    Porcelain 2403

    Porphyry, solid 2547

    Porphyry, broken 1650

    Potash 1281

    Potassium chloride 2002

    Potatoes, white 769

    Pumice, stone 641

    Pyrite (fool's gold) 2400 - 5015

    Quartz, solid 2643

    Quartz, lump 1554

    Quartz sand 1201

    Resin, synthetic, crushed 561

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    Rice, hulled 753

    Rice, rough 577

    Rice grits 689

    Rip-Rap 1602

    Rock - soft - excavated with shovel 1600-1780

    Rosin 1073

    Rubber, caoutchouc 945

    Rubber, manufactured 1522

    Rubber, ground scrap 481

    Rye 705

    Salt cake 1442

    Salt, course 801

    Salt, fine 1201

    Saltpeter 1201

    Sand, wet 1922

    Sand, wet, packed 2082

    Sand, dry 1602

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    Sand, loose 1442

    Sand, rammed 1682

    Sand, water filled 1922

    Sand with Gravel, dry 1650

    Sand with Gravel, wet 2020

    Sandstone, solid 2323

    Sandstone, broken 1370-1450

    Sawdust 210

    Sewage, sludge 721

    Shale, solid 2675

    Shale, broken 1586

    Shells - oyster 800

    Sinter 1600-2180

    Slag, solid 2114

    Slag, broken 1762

    Slag, crushed, 1/4 inch 1185

    Slag, furn. granulated 961

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    Slate, solid 2691

    Slate, broken 1290-1450

    Slate, pulverized 1362

    Smithsonite ( zinc ore ) 4300

    Snow, freshly fallen 160

    Snow, compacted 481

    Soap, solid 801

    Soap, chips 160

    Soap, flakes 160

    Soap, powdered 368

    Soapstone talc 2400

    Soda Ash, heavy 1080

    Soda Ash, light 432

    Sodium 977

    Sodium Aluminate, ground 1153

    Sodium Nitrate, ground 1201

    Soy beans, whole 753

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    Starch, powdered 561

    Stone, crushed 1602

    Stone (common, generic) 2515

    Sugar, brown 721

    Sugar, powdered 801

    Sugar, granulated 849

    Sugar, raw cane 961

    Sugarbeet pulp, dry 208

    Sugarbeet pulp, wet 561

    Sugarcane 272

    Sulphur, solid 2002

    Sulphur, lump 1314

    Sulphur, pulverized 961

    Taconite 2803

    Talc, solid 2691

    Talc, broken 1746

    Tanbark, ground 881

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    Tankage 961

    Tar 1153

    Tobacco 320

    Trap rock, solid 2883

    Trap rock, broken 1746

    Turf 400

    Turpentine 865

    Walnut, black, dry 609

    Water, pure 1000

    Water, seatd> 1026

    Wheat 769

    Wheat, cracked 673

    Wood chips - dry 240- 520

    Wool 1314

    Zinc oxide 400

    Back to Top

    Updated: 8/12/11

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