The 1954 film Sabrina  starred Audrey Hepburn and was costumed by Edith Head, with some Givenchy designs.  One dress by Givenchy featured a bateau neckline with tie straps that was widely copied.  And so were the most casual clothes designed by Head, especially the black toredore slacks and flat ballet shoes that were worn in one scene.

Eight years later, the Givenchy little black dresses worn by Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany's set the standard for early 1960s cocktail attire.

Would you accept an Oscar for work you didn’t do? Legendary

costumer Edith Head did, when she won an Academy Award for Sabrina, a film

starring Audrey Hepburn that was released on this day in 1954. Head had worked

with Hepburn the year before in Roman Holiday—a film that earned them both

Oscars for their efforts. But the Oscars came months after costuming began

onSabrina; at that time Hepburn was just an English theater actress barely known in

the United States. So Head was furious when director Billy Wilder agreed to

Hepburn’s suggestion that herSabrina character—a tomboy who travels to Paris and

returns a swan—should have a “real Parisian” dress for the scene where Sabrina

debuts her European makeover, rather than a dress made by Head. “Edith was very

good about it,” Hepburn recalled in a 1970s interview, but the truth is that Head

never forgave Hepburn, even decades later. Head reluctantly sent Hepburn to Paris

to meet with couturier Cristóbal Balenciaga, a “suggestion” from Wilder’s wife, also

named Audrey. What followed is the beginning of one of the most retold stories in

Hollywood fashion history: Hepburn arrived in Paris but Balenciaga sent her to his

up-and-coming protégé, Hubert de Givenchy. Except Givenchy was expecting to

style the otherHepburn: Katherine. When the wrong Hepburn showed up at his

atelier wearing a T-shirt, cropped pants and a tourist’s gondolier’s hat, the young

couturier was less than impressed. Hepburn won him over, though, marking the

beginning of a successful and very long collaboration between artist and

muse. Needless to say, Hepburn returned to Los Angeles with more than just one

“real Parisian” dress.

The story of Sabrina focuses on a chauffeur’s daughter who pines over the

handsome playboy son of the über-wealthy family her father works for. Through

voiceover, Hepburn-as-Sabrina introduces the film with “Once upon a time,” and the

picture is a Cinderella story through and through. Sabrina is a pony-tailed Bobby

soxer in a patterned romper (designed by Head) until her father ships her off to Paris

to attend cooking school and kick her crush. The little girl from Long Island returns

two years later with more than a knowledge of soups and soufflés. Her makeover

complete, Sabrina sports freshly cropped hair and wears Givenchy: a pale grey knife-

cut suit of fine wool. Her desired beau is smitten and invites Sabrina to a fancy party.

When she accepts she promises to wear “a lovely evening dress with yards of skirt

and way off the shoulders.” The lovely dress, a Givenchy strapless bodice with a

voluminous embroidered skirt, makes Sabrina the belle of the ball. Later in the film,

she wears a modified boatneck dress with a pinched waist and a shorter, but still

very full skirt for a date. Years later, Givenchy remembered: “She wanted a bare-

shouldered evening dress modified to hide the hollows behind her collarbone. What

I invented for her eventually became a style so popular that I named it

‘décolleté Sabrina.’”

The

evening dress was a stunner, but Hepburn spends much of the rest of the movie in

clothes that underscore her unique tomboy style. Whether it was high-waisted shorts

with a plaid button-up shirt for sailing, or Capri pants, a boat-neck tee (all designed

by Givenchy) and ballet flats for a trip into the city, Sabrina is the picture of casual

sophistication. Givenchy, unlike Head, showcased Hepburn’s rail-thin physique, big

feet and ears and long neck. Head had taken the opposite approach for Roman

Holiday, working to disguise Hepburn’s boyish figure. Givenchy and Hepburn knew

what they were doing: Sabrina made the actress a veritable fashion icon.

Five months later Head won and accepted the Academy Award for Best Costume

Design in a Black-and-White Film for Sabrina. According to her biographer, David

Chierichetti,Head “said nothing, counting on the fact that Givenchy was such

a gentleman he would not make a fuss. He didn’t.” Head continued to take

credit for Sabrina dresses, even after working with Hepburn (and, remotely,

Givenchy) on Funny Face in 1957 andBreakfast at Tiffany’s in 1961. Once her ruse

was discovered by Chierichetti, Head snapped, “I lied. So what? If I bought a sweater

at Bullock’s Wilshire do I have to give them credit, too?” Although some years later

Head finally admitted, “Audrey could have been a designer herself, she had such

perfect taste,” and she was right. Hepburn meeting Givenchy for Sabrina is one of

Hollywood’s great fashion collaborations. Givenchy found his muse, and together

they discovered a style that was all Hepburn’s own.

Breakfast at tiffany’s

Princess of Roman holiday

Audrey Hepburn became a sensation upon the release of her 1953 film,Roman Holiday. The twenty-four year old actress from England and Holland won an Oscar, as well as, Golden Globe and BAFTA awards for her leading role as a sheltered princess who finds love and maturity while on royal tour in Rome.

The films which followed were equally captivating to her audience, in terms of star-appeal and fashion-audacieux; yet, it wasBreakfast at Tiffany’s, produced eight years later, in 1961, which really established Audrey Hepburn as a deva.

The aesthetic details of the opening scene - the deserted ambience at dawn along Fifth Avenue; a beautiful, young lady gazing into Tiffany’s window, having her breakfast from a pastry bag and a paper cup, these are a testament to the superior crew that created this film.

The beautiful lady is Audrey Hepburn as Holly Golightly, a transplant from the south, who has transformed herself into a sophisticated, city girl: she has the

Central Park, east apartment; a polished accent; diamonds and all ~ plus, an orange tabby with no name.

With leading man, George Peppard.

Holly and "Fred" are kindered souls, and as most soul-mates, have trouble winding up together.

Based on the novella by Truman Capote, the making of Breakfast at Tiffany’s was met with a torrent of objectivity.

At the time, people with 1950’s sensibilities were shocked over the theme of a young lady living on her own in New York City. Words such as “prostitute” were uttered to describe the type of girl Hepburn would play in this film. Completely un-conterminous with the persona Hepburn wanted to emulate, she herself also protested some of the more steamy, original scenes.

Along with these complications of script and other details and obstacles, producers had to find ways of fitting the movie into standards of acceptability. In stark contrast to the strict codes of the day, the “p”-word claim goes largely unnoticed today. Holly is just a girl struggling to let go of her past, while both hanging onto her real sense-of-self and moulding an identity.

Yet, as Holly, and her audience learn, the past is never really cast away completely. For Holly, her attempts at letting go are accompanied by shocks of loss and grief: the very things at which she had been working so hard to avoid.

Holly and her cat called simply, "Cat".

Fifth Avenue, Musing

George Peppard, as Holly’s neighbor, Paul, or “Fred”, as Holly insists upon calling him, helps Holly define the values of real love versus money and a rich and dashing, but ultimately unreliable, fiance.

This is a love story and a coming-of-age story nestled in glamour!

The 1961 film proved to be inspiration for later films, such as Hepburn’s own, Charade, (1963), in which she plays a similar role but in Paris, where, this time, Cary Grant is the rescuer; and Jon Voight’s Midnight Cowboy,(1969), the male counterpart to this school-of-life depiction, though from a harsher milieu in the streets of New York.

By the time Audrey Hepburn made Breakfast at Tiffany’s, her remarkable friendship with Hubert de Givenchy was firmly established, and the two were not only friends, but a dynamic fashion-duo.

"Sabrina"

The black dress that Audrey found while rifling through Givenchy's collection.

Audrey and Givency in Paris.

It all began with a little black dress, the one that Audrey wears inSabrina. The twenty-four year old Audrey was unleashed by the film’s producers to find a dress in Paris for her role as the ingénue, Sabrina. When Hubert de Givenchy was presented with this young, waif of a girl, named Audrey Hepburn, not Katherine Hepburn, he was surprised and rather abashed.

However, Audrey persisted and won Givenchy over with her exuberant charm. The budding actress then tried on a number of les vetements from the designer’s own collection, ending with a black dress; the item Audrey settled on was simple and elegant, with a broad neckline, tied at the shoulders and cinched at the waist. Givenchy and his assistants were transfixed by the girl’s expedient taste and her brilliant metamorphosis. The little black dress, fresh from the haute couture, Paris fashion house of de Givenchy, became Sabrina, which became Audrey, which became Givenchy!

A far cry from the Edith Head designs of pre-Audrey fashion, all of Audrey Hepburn’s films following Sabrina would feature Hubert de Givenchy as wardrobe director.

"Funny Face", about a girl who blossoms in Paris.

"Funny Face"

With Peter O'Toole in "How To Steal A Million"

The Poster for "How To Steal A Million"

The classic Audrey

By the way, in How To Steal A Million, (1966), Hepburn’s leading man, the dashing Peter O’Toole, mentions Givenchy in a witty quip, pronouncing the

French name with a definite soft-g: jhee-‘voh(n)-shee, cleverly informing us how to pronounce the now madly popular Givenchy. 

In Love In The Afternoon,(1957), wearing chic, charming Givenchy dresses, Hepburn plays, Ariane, a precocious girl studying music at the Conservatory in Paris. Gary Cooper is an American playboy, and even though he is much too old for Audrey, this romantic comedy is a favorite, featuring a cast of well-heeled characters, including the great French actor, Maurice Chevalier.

Audrey Hepburn made twenty-seven films from 1948 to 1989, defining generations to come in terms of women’s fashion. She brought an artistic flair to the cashmere sweater and skinny pants, with Sabrina as well as Funny Face. (1957). InCharade, with dapper, comedic Cary Grant, as her leading man, Audrey is sophisticated, independent, smart and fun ~ with a little help from Givenchy, of course!

Audrey’s face has become synonymous with, not only, black, slim pants worn ala ballet flats; haute couture, chic dresses and Hollywood stardom; but her enchanting, soulful eyes; a delightful grin and an extraordinarily charming spirit have also become familiar, endearing remembrances to a world of movie fans and fashionistas.

She is at once large-hearted and effervescent; passionate and thoughtful; worldly and otherworldly; yet she holds a reserve of mystery, which is altogether her own.

In later years, Audrey Hepburn blessed us all with her apotheosis of humanitarianism by giving of herself to impoverished countries, mainly to children, with her selfless, philanthropic service.

Among her many career awards, Audrey was also honored with the 1992 Presidential Medal of Freedom for her work as a UNICEF Goodwill Ambassador.

From "How To Steal A Million", with glitter eyelids

La Reine Mere!

Charade:

Audrey Hepburn in Givenchy- How to Steal a Million

The actress Audrey Hepburn photographed by Roger Viollet at the wheel of her redFiat convertible, when Audrey was in Paris (France), for the filming of “How to Steal a Million”, in September 1965.-Audrey was wearing two-piece of Givenchy Boutique Paris (sleeveless blouse and skirt, made of fine wool, of the collection for the Spring/Summer of 1965) and aHermès cardingan.Photos from the archive of APA - Picture Desk.

The actress Audrey Hepburn photographed by Douglas Kirkland at the Studio de Boulogne for the publicity of “How to Steal a Million”. Paris (France), November 1965.

-Audrey was wearing creations of Hubert de Givenchy (hat and coat/dress, created for her wardrobe in this film) and gloves of Hermès.

The actress Audrey Hepburn as Nicole Bonnet and photographed by Terry O’Neill for the publicity of “How to Steal a Million”. Paris (France), 1965.-Audrey was wearing a creation of Givenchy (crepê blouse).Note: The Audrey’s hairstyle was created by Alexandre de Paris.

The actress Audrey Hepburn photographed by Douglas Kirkland at the Studio de Boulogne for the publicity of “How to Steal a Million”. Paris (France), November 1965.-Audrey was wearing creations of Givenchy Boutique Paris.

Photos by Roger Viollet.Mel Ferrer with his wife Audrey Hepburn photographed by Roger Viollet, during their arrival at the Restaurant Saint Jacques  in Paris (France), on November 25, 1965.-Audrey was wearing an ensemble of Hubert de Givenchy (jacket and skirt in silk matte brocade and silk sleeveless blouse, of his collection for the Autumn/Winter 1965/66) and Cartier earrings.Note: Audrey was in Paris for the filming of “How to Steal a Million”.

Mel Ferrer with his wife Audrey Hepburn photographed by Roger Viollet, during a dinner at the Restaurant Saint Jacques in Paris (France), on November 25, 1965.-Audrey was wearing an ensemble of Hubert de Givenchy (jacket and skirt in silk matte brocade and silk sleeveless blouse, of his collection for the Autumn/Winter 1965/66) and Cartier earrings.Note: Audrey was in Paris for the filming of “How to Steal a Million”.

The actress Audrey Hepburn photographed by Douglas Kirkland in Paris (France), for a fashion editorial and also for the publicity of “How to Steal a Million” (1966).-Audrey was wearing creations of Hubert de Givenchy (wool coat, hat and belt), created for the wardrobe of Nicole Bonnet.

Oliver Goldsmith.First photo: Audrey Hepburn photographed by Terry O’Neill for the publicity of “How to Steal a Million”. Paris (France), 1965.Second photo: Audrey Hepburn as Nicole Bonnet and photographed by Douglas Kirkland at the Studio de Boulogne to a fashion editorial and also for the publicity of “How to Steal a Million”. Paris (France), 1965.-Audrey was wearing creations of Givenchy (hat and wool suit, jacket and skirt),Hermès gloves and sunglasses of Oliver Goldsmith. 

The actress Audrey Hepburn as Nicole Bonnet and photographed by Terry O’Neill for the publicity of “How to Steal a Million”. Paris (France), 1965.-Audrey was wearing creations of Hubert de Givenchy (ensemble, jacket and dress, made of green silk brocade), Cartier earrings and belt also of Givenchy.

Nicole Bonnet x Joanna Wallace.First photo: The actress Audrey Hepburn as Nicole Bonnet and photographed by Terry O’Neill at the Maxim’s (her favorite restaurant in Paris) for the publicity of “How to Steal a Million” (1966).-Audrey was wearing an ensemble of Hubert de Givenchy (coat and sleeveless dress, made of silk, brocade) and Cartier earrings.Second photo: The actress Audrey Hepburn as Joanna Wallace and photographed by Terry O’Neill for the publicity of “Two for the Road” (1967).-Audrey was wearing creations of Ken Scott (silk dress and earrings)

LOVE AMONG THIEVES

All clothes and accessories that Mrs. Audrey Hepburn wore in “Love Among Thieves”, belonged to her personal wardrobe.

Robert Wagner with Audrey Hepburn.The actor Robert Wagner photographed with the actress Audrey Hepburn by Douglas Kirkland for the publicity of “Love Among Thieves” (1987).-Audrey was wearing creations of Hubert de Givenchy (silk printed dress, belt, watch and earrings).Note: This dress and accessories (belt, watch and earrings), were created first for Audrey, and later were included in Givenchy’s collection for the Spring/Summer of 1987.

Givenchy, Paris.-Audrey wore this evening gown of Hubert de Givenchy from 1982 until about 1988.

Note: This was her favorite evening gown in the 1980s.

Mrs. Audrey Hepburn photographed by Douglas Kirkland.Mrs. Audrey Hepburn photographed by Douglas Kirkland for the publicity of “Love Among Thieves” (1987).-Audrey was wearing an evening gown of Hubert de Givenchy (made of black shantung, with details of silk flowers, black and white, and hair ornament, a white silk flower, created for his haute couture collection for the Spring of 1982) and earrings of Yves Saint Laurent.Note: In the second photo Audrey was with her dog.

Mrs. Audrey Hepburn as Baroness Caroline DuLac.Mrs. Audrey Hepburn as Baroness Caroline DuLac and photographed by Douglas Kirkland for the publicity of “Love Among Thieves”, showing on ABC Television on February 23, 1987.

-Audrey was wearing an evening gown of Hubert de Givenchy (made of black shantung, with details of silk flowers, black and white, and hair ornament, a white silk flower, created for his haute couture collection for the Spring of 1982) and earrings of Yves Saint Laurent.

PARIS WHEN IT SIZZLESPhotos by Bud Fraker.The actress Audrey Hepburn photographed by Bud Fraker during the filming of “Paris When It Sizzles”, for a beauty editorial and also for the publicity. Paris (France), June 19, 1962.

William Holden with Audrey Hepburn.The actor William Holden photographed with the actress Audrey Hepburn during a press conference for the publicity of their new movie “Paris When It Sizzles” in Paris (France), on June 16, 1962.-Audrey was wearing a creation of Hubert de Givenchy (dress made of silk, black and white, of his collection for the Spring/Summer of 1962).Note: First photo from © Bettmann/CORBIS and second from Getty Images.

Audrey Hepburn in Paris, 1962.The actress Audrey Hepburn photographed during a press conference for the publicity of her new movie “Paris When It Sizzles” in Paris (France), on June 16, 1962.-Audrey was wearing a creation of Hubert de Givenchy (dress made of silk, black and white, of his collection for the Spring/Summer of 1962) and sunglasses of Oliver Goldsmith (the same that she wore in “Breakfast at Tiffany’s”).Note: Photos from Getty Images. 

The actress Audrey Hepburn photographed during a press conference for the publicity of her new movie “Paris When It Sizzles” in Paris (France), on June 16, 1962.-Audrey was wearing a creation of Hubert de Givenchy (dress made of silk, black and white, of his collection for the Spring/Summer of 1962) and sunglasses of Oliver Goldsmith (the same that she wore in “Breakfast at Tiffany’s”).

The actress Audrey Hepburn photographed at the Studio de Boulogne by Roger Viollet during the filming of “Paris When It Sizzles”. Paris (France), 1962.

Paris (France), June 16, 1962.First photo: The actress Audrey Hepburn photographed by Roger Viollet in a boat on the river Seine, after a press conference for the publicity of her new movie “Paris When It Sizzles” in Paris (France), on June 16, 1962.-Audrey was wearing a creation of Hubert de Givenchy (dress made of silk, black and white, of his collection for the Spring/Summer of 1962) and sunglasses of Oliver Goldsmith (the same that she wore in “Breakfast at Tiffany’s”).Second photo: The actress Audrey Hepburn photographed by Luc Fournol into a boat on the river Seine, after a press conference for the publicity of her new movie “Paris When It Sizzles” in Paris (France), on June 16, 1962.On the table: Sunglasses of Oliver Goldsmith, white leather gloves and Givenchyhandbag.

Rick Benson with Gabrielle Simpson.The actress Audrey Hepburn (as Gabrielle Simpson) photographed with the actor William Holden (as Rick Benson) during the filming of “Paris When It Sizzles”. Paris (France), 1962.First photo: Audrey was wearing a medieval costume, created especially for her wardrobe by Hubert de Givenchy.Second photo: Audrey was wearing a cocktail dress, created especially for her wardrobe by Hubert de Givenchy and shoes (lined of pink silk) of René Mancini for Givenchy.

“The Oriental” by Alexandre de Paris.The actress Audrey Hepburn photographed by Richard Avedon (during the filming of “Paris When It Sizzles”) for a fashion editorial made for the American Harper’s Bazaar, published in the edition of

Setember 1962. Paris (France), July 1962.-Audrey was wearing shawl of Yves Saint Laurent and Harry Winston earrings.

Note: The Audrey’s hairstyle called “The Oriental”, was created and done byAlexandre de Paris.

The actress Audrey Hepburn photographed by Bob Willoughby at the Studio de Boulogne during the filming of “Paris When It Sizzles”, for a fashion editorial made for the Paris VOGUE, published in the edition of December 1962.-Audrey was wearing creations of Hubert de Givenchy (ensemble, short dress and pants, made of light pink silk, perfect for a dinner at home with friends tonight, said Miss Hepburn) of his collection for the Autumn/Winter 1962/63, and shoes of Roger Vivier for Christian Dior.Note: The hairstyle of Mrs. Hepburn was created by Alexandre de Paris.

Gabrielle Simpson wears Givenchy.The actress Audrey Hepburn as Gabrielle Simpson and photographed by Bob Willoughby during the filming of “Paris When It Sizzles”. Paris (France), Summer of 1962.

-Audrey was wearing creations of Hubert de Givenchy (dress and straw hat, created for her wardrobe in this film).