Jacquard Fabric on Circular Jacquard Fabric on Circular Knitting machineKnitting machine

Part 1: Single Jersey Jacquard Part 1: Single Jersey Jacquard FabricsFabrics

Jimmy LamJimmy Lam

Institute of Textiles & ClothingInstitute of Textiles & Clothing

Learning ObjectivesLearning Objectives DefinitionDefinition Knit and Miss JacquardKnit and Miss Jacquard Knit and Tuck JacquardKnit and Tuck Jacquard Knit, tuck and miss jacquardKnit, tuck and miss jacquard Other Jacquard fabricsOther Jacquard fabrics

– Drop stitch jacquardDrop stitch jacquard– Jacquard FishnetJacquard Fishnet– Jacquard InlayJacquard Inlay– Jacquard PurlJacquard Purl– Jacquard TerryJacquard Terry

DefinitionDefinition Jacquard : A general term for fabrics with Jacquard : A general term for fabrics with

knit on patternknit on pattern

Can you name any non-jacquard fabric ?Can you name any non-jacquard fabric ?

Definition (II)Definition (II) Mini-jacquard/semi-jacquard/intermediate-jacquardMini-jacquard/semi-jacquard/intermediate-jacquard

– Jacquard with small pattern area eg E18 double jersey with Jacquard with small pattern area eg E18 double jersey with 2 colours in one square inch2 colours in one square inch

Rib-jacquard Rib-jacquard – Double Knit jacquardDouble Knit jacquard

Knit and Miss Jacquard Knit and Miss Jacquard – Single Knit JacquardSingle Knit Jacquard

Self colour JacquardSelf colour Jacquard– Jacquard pattern with surface effect eg tuck eyeletsJacquard pattern with surface effect eg tuck eyelets

Definition (III)Definition (III)

Floatless JacquardFloatless Jacquard– Single Jersey colour jacquard made by knit and tuckSingle Jersey colour jacquard made by knit and tuck

Accordian Miss FabricAccordian Miss Fabric– Single jersey jacquard with knit, tuck on the same Single jersey jacquard with knit, tuck on the same

course. The tuck stitches are used to tie-in the long course. The tuck stitches are used to tie-in the long floats of unwanted colours.floats of unwanted colours.

Knit and Miss Jacquard fabricKnit and Miss Jacquard fabric

Knit and Miss JacquardKnit and Miss Jacquard

Used for colour pattern on single jersey Used for colour pattern on single jersey machinemachine

By sharing the loops of a colour yarn on the By sharing the loops of a colour yarn on the fabric surface and hiding those unwanted fabric surface and hiding those unwanted colour yarns at the back in the form of float colour yarns at the back in the form of float stitchstitch

Knit + Miss Jacquard SampleKnit + Miss Jacquard Sample

Technical Face Technical Back

Gauge 5, V-bed Knitting Sample

Knit+Miss Jacquard fabricKnit+Miss Jacquard fabric

Technical Face Technical Back

Eight Gauge V-bed Knitting

2-Colour Knit and Miss jacquard

3-Colour Knitand Miss Jacquard

Characteristics of Knit+Miss Characteristics of Knit+Miss Jacquard FabricJacquard Fabric

Narrower widthNarrower width– The float yarn tends to pull the knit loops closer to each other. Eg. 20E The float yarn tends to pull the knit loops closer to each other. Eg. 20E

plain fabric will have 28-30 wpi but 2 colour jacquard will have 36-37 plain fabric will have 28-30 wpi but 2 colour jacquard will have 36-37 wpi.wpi.

Shorter in lengthShorter in length Heavier in weightHeavier in weight

– The fabric density is higher, together with float yarns at the back. The fabric density is higher, together with float yarns at the back. (therefore, 3 or 4 colour is not popular because it is too heavily)(therefore, 3 or 4 colour is not popular because it is too heavily)

Fabric thicknessFabric thickness– It will be thicker and becomes bucker because of extra float yarnIt will be thicker and becomes bucker because of extra float yarn

Characteristics of Knit+Miss Characteristics of Knit+Miss Jacquard FabricJacquard Fabric

Surface AppearanceSurface Appearance– Good surface appearance on colour patternGood surface appearance on colour pattern

Dimensional StabilityDimensional Stability– High stitch desnity with large amount of float yarn, it is High stitch desnity with large amount of float yarn, it is

better in dimensional stability than plain fabric.better in dimensional stability than plain fabric.

ApplicationApplication The knit and miss jacquard fabric can almost be The knit and miss jacquard fabric can almost be

produced on any circular sinker top machine.produced on any circular sinker top machine. However, fabric end uses depends on:However, fabric end uses depends on:

– machine gauge;machine gauge;– material used;material used;– fabric weight;fabric weight;– fabric properties;fabric properties;– colour pattern and structurecolour pattern and structure

End-uses for Single Jacquard fabricsEnd-uses for Single Jacquard fabrics

Yarn ArrangementYarn Arrangement

Yarn Tension ControlYarn Tension Control– Positive feed cannot be used, instead the storage feed should Positive feed cannot be used, instead the storage feed should

be used. Direct yarn feeding from cone to needles will be be used. Direct yarn feeding from cone to needles will be used for low quality fabric product.used for low quality fabric product.

Please discuss above statementPlease discuss above statement.. Yarn Set out on knitting feedersYarn Set out on knitting feeders

– For 2-colour jacquard patterns, the machine feeders must be For 2-colour jacquard patterns, the machine feeders must be in even number. This is because it takes 2 feeders to make in even number. This is because it takes 2 feeders to make one surface course on fabric. Similarly, 3 colour jacquard one surface course on fabric. Similarly, 3 colour jacquard need the no. of feeders in the multiple of 3.need the no. of feeders in the multiple of 3.

Knit and Tuck Jacquard FabricsKnit and Tuck Jacquard Fabrics

It is commonly used to produce single It is commonly used to produce single colour structure with surface effect of colour structure with surface effect of

fabric.fabric.

Knit+Tuck Jacquard FabricKnit+Tuck Jacquard Fabric

Technical FaceTechnical Back

Note: No float yarn at the back of the fabric

Knit + Tuck Jacquard fabricKnit + Tuck Jacquard fabricCharacteristicsCharacteristics

Wider WidthWider Width– The tuck stitch will increase the width of fabricThe tuck stitch will increase the width of fabric

– eg. KTKTKT (fabric A); KKTKKTKKT (fabric B)eg. KTKTKT (fabric A); KKTKKTKKT (fabric B)

– fabric A is wider than Bfabric A is wider than B Shorter lengthShorter length

– The tuck loop will reduce the fabric lengthThe tuck loop will reduce the fabric length

– KTKTKTKT KTKKKTKKTKKKTK

– KTKTKTKT (A)(A) KKTKKKT (B)KKTKKKT (B)

– KTKTKTKT KKKTKKKKKKTKKK

– fabric A will be shorter than Bfabric A will be shorter than B

Knit + Tuck JacquardKnit + Tuck JacquardCharacteristicsCharacteristics

Fabric thickness and weightFabric thickness and weight– fabric thickness will increase with the amount of tuck fabric thickness will increase with the amount of tuck

stitch. The fabric density is lower than knit and miss stitch. The fabric density is lower than knit and miss but is still heavier than plainbut is still heavier than plain

Dimensional StabilityDimensional Stability– because of lower fabric density, it is not as stable as because of lower fabric density, it is not as stable as

knit and miss fabricknit and miss fabric

Knit + Tuck JacquardKnit + Tuck JacquardApplicationApplication

Knit and Tuck fabric will never be used for underwear Knit and Tuck fabric will never be used for underwear because it is not smooth enough to contact with the because it is not smooth enough to contact with the skin.skin.

Knit, tuck and miss jacquardKnit, tuck and miss jacquard

Knit + Tuck + Miss JacquardKnit + Tuck + Miss Jacquard

Also known as selective accordian or 3-way Also known as selective accordian or 3-way technique.technique.

Similar to knit and miss jacquard, except the Similar to knit and miss jacquard, except the insertion of tuck stitch to tie-in the long float insertion of tuck stitch to tie-in the long float threads at predetermined interval.threads at predetermined interval.– Eg float length of 11 wales can be reduced to 5 wales by Eg float length of 11 wales can be reduced to 5 wales by

inserting tuck stitch at the middleinserting tuck stitch at the middle

– fabric A= XX-----------XXfabric A= XX-----------XX

– fabric B=XX-----T-----XXfabric B=XX-----T-----XX

Knit + Tuck + Miss JacquardKnit + Tuck + Miss JacquardCharacteristicsCharacteristics

Similar to knit and miss except the fabric density is Similar to knit and miss except the fabric density is lower because of tuck stitch.lower because of tuck stitch.

Also fabric appearance and colour is not as clear Also fabric appearance and colour is not as clear as knit and miss jacquardas knit and miss jacquard

Can you tell why ?Can you tell why ?

Modification of single knit colour Modification of single knit colour jacquard fabricjacquard fabric

Multi-colour by 2 colour jacquard knitting– On circular machine, only those installed with automatic

striper can change the yarn according to program. Ordinary machine will have to use yarn set out method

Insertion of plain knit on multi-colour pattern– Method 1: just knit the horizontal block in plain with one

colour yarn, the fabric thickness will be uneven

– Method 2: Leave the unwanted colour yarns to float and tuck at the back to maintain the fabric thickness

Multi-colour by 2 colour jacquard Multi-colour by 2 colour jacquard knittingknitting

Modification of 2-colour jacaurdModification of 2-colour jacaurd

Knit+Tuck+Miss2-colour

All Knitone colour

Color Stripe Single jerseyColor Stripe Single jerseyTechnical Face Technical back

Special Design by mixing of colour yarn, basicallyit is a simple plain knit fabric

Printed FabricPrinted FabricTechnical Face Technical Back

The easy way to distinguish a printed fabric from knittedjacquard fabric is, the printed fabric only shows the designon one size.