manusi duble
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tipar manusi duble, tricotateTRANSCRIPT
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Double Mitts are normal
mittens with a flip top for
when you need to be able to
get to your fingers.
They are knitted in the round
and different sizes can be
made by varying the weight
of the yarn used.
I knitted three pairs of mitts using 4 ply, DK and aran weight
yarns. Two sizes of needles are needed for each pair. The details,
including measurements, are given in the table above.
Small Medium Large
Yarn 4 ply (50g) DK (60g) Aran (80g)
Needles 3mm & 3.5mm 3.5mm & 4mm 4mm & 4.5mm
Tension
12 sts & 19
rows = 5cm² on
3.5mm needles
11 sts & 17
rows = 5cm² on
4 mm needles
10 sts & 15
rows = 5cm² on
4.5mm needles
Length, closed
open
20 cm / 8"
17 cm / 6½"
23 cm / 9"
18 cm / 7"
27 cm / 10½"
20 cm / 8"
Thumb 6 cm / 2¼"" 6.5 cm / 2½" 7 cm / 2¾"
Round hand,
above thumb
17 cm / 6½"
19 cm / 7½"
22 cm / 8½"
Frankie’s Knitted Stuff
Double Mitts
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The yarns I used for my mitts were:
Small - 21st Century 4 ply (400 m / 100g, shade Atlantic).
Medium - Adriafil Knitcol (125 m / 50g, shade 64).
Large - Hayfield Bonus Aran (840 m / 400g, shade 0775).
The pattern is the same for all three sizes, just choose your yarn
and needles with reference to the table above. The mitts are knitted
in the round, first the main part and then the top for the fingers.
Both hands are knitted exactly the same, it’s the sewing together
that makes them different.
The Cuff
Using the smaller needles and the long tail method, cast on 40 stitches.
Work 20 rounds in K1, P1 rib.
Knit two rounds.
Now change to the larger needles.
Shaping for the Thumb
This is worked over 18 rounds, increasing two stitches in the first
round and every third round after that.
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Round 1: K1, m1, K1, m1, K to end.
Rounds 2 & 3: Knit.
Round 4: K1, m1, K3, m1, K to end.
Rounds 5 &6: Knit.
Round 7: K1, m1, K5, m1, K to end.
Rounds 8 & 9: Knit.
Round 10: K1, m1, K7, m1, K to end.
Rounds 11 & 12: Knit.
Round 13: K1, m1, K9, m1, K to end.
Rounds 14 & 15: Knit.
Round 16: K1, m1, K11, m1, K to end.
Rounds 17 & 18: Knit.
You should now have 52 stitches; the first 14 are for the thumb, the
rest are for the hand.
The Thumb
Knit the 14 thumb stitches and leave the rest on a spare needle.
Using the backward loop method cast on four stitches; knit the 14
stitches and then the four new ones. You will now have 18 stitches
for the thumb; they should be arranged so that the four new stitches
are at the end of the round.
Knit 16 rounds.
Next round: *K1, K2tog, repeat from * to end (12 sts).
Next round: Knit.
Next round: *K2tog, repeat from * to end (6 sts).
Thread through the remaining six stitches and fasten off.
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The Hand
Pick up and knit eight stitches from the base of the thumb and knit to
the end (46 sts). The new stitches remain at the start of the round.
Next round: Knit.
Next round: SSK, K4, K2tog, K to end (44 sts).
Knit eight rounds.
Change back to the smaller needles and work eight more rounds in
K1, P1 rib. Cast off, using the bigger needle so that the top isn’t
too tight.
The Top
This is knitted on the bigger needles only and is a bit like a small
hat for the fingers.
Using the long tail method cast on 44 stitches.
Work eight rounds in K1, P1 rib.
Knit 16 rounds.
The top of the mitten is shaped over 13 rounds.
Round 1: (SSK, K18, K2tog) twice (40 sts).
Round 2: (and Rounds 4, 6, 8, 10 & 12) Knit.
Round 3: (SSK, K16, K2tog) twice (36 sts).
Round 5: (SSK, K14, K2tog) twice (32 sts).
Round 7: (SSK, K12, K2tog) twice (28 sts).
Round 9: (SSK, K10, K2tog) twice (24 sts).
Round 11: *K2tog, repeat from * to end (12 sts).
Round 13: *K2tog, repeat from * to end (6 sts).
Thread through the remaining six stitches and fasten off, leaving a
long tail of yarn.
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Finishing the Mitts
The first thing to do is to arrange the two mitts so that one is the
right hand and the other the left. Fold each mitt so that it lies flat
with the outside fold running along the back of the thumb. The
thumbs should tend to lie on the palm of the mitts rather than
sticking out to the side. I had to pin mine down for this photo but I
hope it gives you the general idea.
Now turn one of the mitts over and position the top in the middle
of the back. The rib edge should be level with the start of the
thumb or just above. The curved top should reach to just above the
start of the cuff. Pin in place and then sew down.
If you work through the stitches just above the cast on edge on the
inside of the top, it will lie neatly when closed.
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To make a loop to fasten the top down, take the long tail you left
when finishing off and thread it through to about 1 cm away from
the centre of the top. Then take a small crochet hook, put it through
the mitt and pull the yarn through on to the hook. Make a short
length of crochet chain, long enough to reach to the same point on
the other side. Fasten off the yarn and sew the chain down.
This will give you a small loop
which lies around the top edge and
is virtually invisible until needed.
The arrows mark the ends of the
loop.
Finally, sew a small button to the middle of the cuff.
Abbreviations
st / sts stitch / stitches
K knit
P purl
m1 make 1 by lifting the thread before the next stitch and knitting
into the back of it
K2tog knit two stitches together
SSK slip, slip, knit (see below)
Slip, slip, knit
Slip 2 stitches knitwise (or knitwise followed by purlwise) one at a time,
insert tip of left needle into stitches from above, put yarn round right needle
and knit both stitches together.
© Frankie Brown, 2014. My patterns are for personal use only and should not be used to knit items for sale.
Please do not use them for teaching purposes without my permission.