PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to Ireland ......... 221 Top Experiences ......... 6Need to Know .................. 16First Time ......................... 18What’s New ...................... 20If You Like ......................... 21Month by Month .............. 24Itineraries ......................... 28Great Outdoors ............... 33At the Irish Table ............. 41Regions at a Glance ........ 46

YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT

Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions

to help you put together your perfect trip

UNDERSTAND IRELAND

Ireland Today ................... 692History .............................. 694Irish Way of Life ............... 708Music ................................ 712Literary Ireland ................ 715Irish Landscapes ............. 718Sporting Ireland .............. 722

and

d

87 would be White Irish 1 would be Mixed7 would be White Other 2 would be Unspecifie2 would be Asian 1 would be Black

if Ireland were100 people

10,000–8000 BC

After the last ice age ends, humans arrive

in Ireland during the mesolithic era,

originally crossing a land bridge between

Scotland and Ireland. Few archaeological

traces remain of this group.

450The rst N

farmers Ireland by bo

as far a eIberian pe

bringing cattland crops, the beginnsettled agr

ec

eventually resulting in a full union in 180blessed with its rich Geor ian herita e, amuch in evidence in the capital today

Ireland – or at least most of it – nallywith six counties of Ulster holdin rmcrown. At the turn of the millennium Irelbut very much at peace with itself.

You’ll nd evidence of Ireland’s rich h

31-history-ire-10.indd 694 13/09/2011 10:26:22 AM

Ireland of the Postcard Yes, it exists. Along the peninsulas of the southwest, the brooding loneliness of Connemara and the dramatic wildness of County Donegal. You’ll also nd it in the lakelands of Counties Leitrim and Roscom-mon and the undulating hills of the sunny southeast (‘sunny’ of course being a relative term). Ireland has modernised dramatical-ly, but some things never change. Brave the raging Atlantic on a crossing to Skellig Mi-

Tread Carefully… …for you tread on history. Everywhego Ireland’s history presents itself, frbreathtaking monuments of prehIreland at Brú na Bóinne to the fabulins of Ireland’s rich monastic past adalough and Clonmacnoise. More history is visible in the famine museCobh to the interactive displays of VHill in County Wexford. And there’s so young that it’s still considered th

welcome to Ireland

01-welcome-ire-10.indd 2 13/09/2011 3:35:03 PM

“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!”TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

PAGE

1

PAGE

691GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP

Learn about the big picture, so you

can make sense of what you see

Dublin Museums Entertainment History

plenty of choice when deciding where to enjoa pint of Dublin’s mostcelebrated produce. Bubeyond Guinness and chatter there is theatreand new, concerts nefrenzied, and all mannsporting distractions, fan afternoon in the cotry’s largest stadium tonight at the dogs – witdinner and betting slipserved at your table.

History Virtually every Dublinstreet is lined with moments to its storied history, from the cobbled grounds of Trinity Coll

#_

regions at a glance

11-regions-at-a-glance-ire-10.indd 46 12/09/2011 4:26:48 PM

Know CURRENCY » Euro (€) – Republic

of Ireland

» Pound Sterling (£) Northern Ireland

When to Go

#

#

#

#

#

Warm to hot summers,mild winters

GalwayGO May-Sep

CorkGO May-Sep

KerryGO May-Sep

DublinGO any time lots of indoor attractions

BelfastGO May-Sep

04-need-to-know-ire-10.indd 16 25/08/2011 4:05:20 PM

Tracing Your Roots Roughly 80 million people worldwide can claim to be part of, or descended from, the Irish diaspora, with about 41 million of those in the US alone Most ma-

Literary Corners Four Nobel laureates for literature are just the higlight of a rich literary tration. Ireland is one of theEnglish-speaking world’smost notable heavyweigh

06-if-you-like-ire-10.indd 19 24/08/2011 2:49:22 PM

Looking for other travel resources?

LONELYPLANET.COMFor travel information, advice, tips & digital chapters

MAGAZINEFor travel stories, inspiration & ideaslonelyplanet.com/magazine

EBOOKSGuidebooks for your readerlonelyplanet.com/ebooks

APPSLocation-based guides for the streetlonelyplanet.com/mobile

twitter.com/lonelyplanet

facebook.com/lonelyplanet

lonelyplanet.com/newsletter

STAY IN TOUCH lonelyplanet.com/contact

AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011%03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111

USA 150 Linden St, Oakland, CA 94607%510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572

UK 186 City Rd, London, EC1V 2NT%020 7106 2100, fax 020 7106 2101

Paper in this book is certified against the Forest Stewardship Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, socially beneficial and economically viable management of the world’s forests.

Get the right guides for your trip

ENCOUNTER• Pocket-sized• Easy-to-use• Highlights

DISCOVER• Best-of• Photo-packed• Inspirational

COUNTRY & CITY• The original• Comprehensive• Adventurous

Lonely Planet in numbers70 languages spoken by our writers

12 seconds pass between posts on our Thorn Tree travel forum

100,000,000 Lonely Planet guidebooks sold, and still counting

190+ countries covered by a Lonely Planet guide

PHRASEBOOK

ireland-10-cover.indd 2ireland-10-cover.indd 2 22/09/2011 3:13:00 PM22/09/2011 3:13:00 PM

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Fionn Davenport, Catherine Le Nevez, Etain O’Carroll,

Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Neil Wilson

#

#

_

_

Donegalp460

Fermanagh& Tyrone

p671

Mayo & Sligop425

The Midlandsp499

Galwayp382

Clarep345

Limerick &Tipperary

p319

Kerryp270 Cork

p221

Wexford, Waterford,Carlow & Kilkenny

p165

Wicklow& Kildare

p136

Meath, Louth,Cavan &

Monaghanp531

Down & Armaghp605

Derry & Antrimp634

Dublinp54

Belfastp568

YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE

In-depth reviews, detailed listings

and insider tips

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Directory A–Z .................. 726Transport ......................... 734Language ......................... 740Index ................................. 750Map Legend ..................... 766

VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO

HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

ON THE ROAD

Irish (Gaeilge) is the country’s o cial language. In 2003 the government introduced the O cial Languages Act, whereby all o cial documents, street signs and o cial titles must be either in Irish or in both Irish and English. Despite its o -cial status, Irish is really only spoken in pockets of rural Ireland known as the Gaeltacht, the main ones being Cork (Dún na nGall), Galway arraí) and Mayo (Maigh Eo).

Ask people outside the n speak Irish and nine out of 10 of them

probably reply, and they generally mean it. Irish is a

y subject in schools for those aged sh classes have traditionally

c and unimaginative,

Irish (in Cork, Kerry and WaIrish (in Donegal). The blue guidelines given here are anof modern standard Irish, wan amalgam of the three – if they were English, you’ll point across in Gaeilge withthink about the speci cs oor spelling.

BASICSD

(reply) Good m

Language

PAGE

52

PAGE

725

Look out for these icons:

o Our author’s recommendation S A green or

sustainable option F No payment required

DUBLIN . . . . . . . . . . . . 54AROUND DUBLIN . . . . . . . 132

COUNTIES WICKLOW & KILDARE . . . . . . . . . 136COUNTY WICKLOW . . . . . . 137Wicklow Mountains . . . . . . 137The Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152COUNTY KILDARE . . . . . . 157Kildare Town . . . . . . . . . . . . 161

COUNTIES WEXFORD, WATERFORD, CARLOW & KILKENNY . . . . . . . 165COUNTY WEXFORD . . . . . 168Wexford Town . . . . . . . . . . . 168New Ross . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178Enniscorthy . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179COUNTY WATERFORD . . . 182Waterford City . . . . . . . . . . 182Dungarvan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191Ring Peninsula . . . . . . . . . . 193COUNTY CARLOW . . . . . . 198Carlow Town . . . . . . . . . . . . 198COUNTY KILKENNY . . . . . 203Kilkenny City . . . . . . . . . . . 203

COUNTY CORK . . . . . 221CORK CITY . . . . . . . . . . . . 223Blarney Castle . . . . . . . . . .234WESTERN CORK . . . . . . . . 239Kinsale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .239Clonakilty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .246MIZEN HEAD PENINSULA . . . . . . . . . . . . 257

SHEEP’S HEAD PENINSULA . . . . . . . . . . . . 263BEARA PENINSULA (RING OF BEARA) . . . . . . 264NORTHERN CORK . . . . . . 269Mallow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .269

COUNTY KERRY . . . . 270KILLARNEY . . . . . . . . . . . . 272Killarney National Park . . .278RING OF KERRY . . . . . . . . 284Killorglin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .285Skellig Ring . . . . . . . . . . . . .292Kenmare . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .295DINGLE PENINSULA . . . . 297Dingle Town . . . . . . . . . . . . 299NORTHERN KERRY . . . . . 312Tralee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312Listowel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 316

COUNTIES LIMERICK & TIPPERARY . . . . . . 319COUNTY LIMERICK . . . . . 322Limerick City . . . . . . . . . . . .322Adare . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 331COUNTY TIPPERARY . . . . 333Tipperary Town . . . . . . . . . .333Glen of Aherlow & Galtee Mountains . . . . . . . 334Cashel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .335

COUNTY CLARE . . . .345ENNIS & AROUND . . . . . . 347EASTERN & SOUTHEASTERN CLARE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 353

SOUTHWESTERN & WESTERN CLARE . . . . . . . 360Kilkee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .362Ennistymon . . . . . . . . . . . . .367Cliffs of Moher . . . . . . . . . 368THE BURREN . . . . . . . . . . 369Doolin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 371

COUNTY GALWAY . . .382GALWAY CITY . . . . . . . . . . . 384ARAN ISLANDS . . . . . . . . 399CONNEMARA . . . . . . . . . . 410Lough Corrib . . . . . . . . . . . . 412Clifden & Around . . . . . . . . 415SOUTH OF GALWAY CITY . . . . . . . . . . 421EASTERN GALWAY . . . . . . 422Athenry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .422

COUNTIES MAYO & SLIGO . . . . .425COUNTY MAYO . . . . . . . . . 428Cong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 428Croagh Patrick . . . . . . . . . .432Westport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .432Achill Island . . . . . . . . . . . . .437COUNTY SLIGO . . . . . . . . 447Sligo Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . 447

COUNTY DONEGAL. . . . . . . . . 460DONEGAL TOWN . . . . . . . 461AROUND DONEGAL TOWN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 465Bundoran . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .467

On the Road

See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

SOUTHWESTERN DONEGAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . 471Glencolumbcille & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 474Ardara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .475Loughrea Peninsula . . . . . .477NORTHWESTERN DONEGAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . 477Dungloe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .478Arranmore Island . . . . . . . .479Bloody Foreland . . . . . . . . . 481Tory Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 481Dunfanaghy & Around . . . 483EASTERN DONEGAL . . . . 486Letterkenny . . . . . . . . . . . . 486Glenveagh National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .487NORTHEASTERN DONEGAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . 489Fanad Peninsula . . . . . . . . 490Inishowen Peninsula . . . . . 491Buncrana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .492Malin Head . . . . . . . . . . . . 496

THE MIDLANDS . . . .499COUNTY LAOIS . . . . . . . . . 501Abbeyleix . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .501Slieve Bloom Mountains . . .502COUNTY OFFALY . . . . . . . 505Birr . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 505Clonmacnoise . . . . . . . . . . 509Tullamore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 512COUNTY ROSCOMMON . . . 514Roscommon Town . . . . . . . 517COUNTY LEITRIM . . . . . . . 519Carrick-on-Shannon . . . . . 519

COUNTY LONGFORD . . . . 524COUNTY WESTMEATH . . . .524Athlone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .524Mullingar & Around . . . . . .527

COUNTIES MEATH, LOUTH, CAVAN & MONAGHAN . . . . . . . 531COUNTY MEATH . . . . . . . . 534Brú na Bóinne . . . . . . . . . . .534Battle of Boyne Site. . . . . .537Slane. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .538Tara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .539Trim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .542Kells . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .545Loughcrew Cairns . . . . . . 546COUNTY LOUTH . . . . . . . . 547Drogheda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .547Dundalk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .556Cooley Peninsula . . . . . . . .557COUNTY CAVAN . . . . . . . . 559Cavan Town . . . . . . . . . . . . 560COUNTY MONAGHAN . . . 563Monaghan Town . . . . . . . . 564Carrickmacross & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 566

BELFAST . . . . . . . . . .568BELFAST CITY . . . . . . . . . . 570AROUND BELFAST . . . . . . 604

COUNTIES DOWN & ARMAGH . . . . . . . . . .605COUNTY DOWN . . . . . . . . 607Bangor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 608

Ards Peninsula . . . . . . . . . . 611Strangford Lough . . . . . . . . 614Downpatrick . . . . . . . . . . . . 618Mourne Mountains . . . . . . .623Mournes Coast Road . . . . .625Newry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 626COUNTY ARMAGH . . . . . . 627South Armagh . . . . . . . . . 627Armagh City . . . . . . . . . . . 629

COUNTIES DERRY & ANTRIM . . . . . . . . . . .634COUNTY DERRY . . . . . . . . 635Derry/Londonderry . . . . . .635Coastal County Derry . . . 650Coleraine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 651Portstewart . . . . . . . . . . . . . 651COUNTY ANTRIM . . . . . . . 653Portrush . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .653Bushmills . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .657Giant’s Causeway . . . . . . . 658Ballycastle . . . . . . . . . . . . . 660Rathlin Island . . . . . . . . . . 663Glens of Antrim . . . . . . . . 664Carrickfergus . . . . . . . . . . 668

COUNTIES FERMANAGH & TYRONE . . . . . . . . . 671COUNTY FERMANAGH . . 673Enniskillen . . . . . . . . . . . . . .673Upper Lough Erne . . . . . . .677Lower Lough Erne . . . . . . .679COUNTY TYRONE. . . . . . . 686Omagh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 686Sperrin Mountains . . . . . . .687

333

55°N

54°N

7°W

55°N

54°N

8°W

5°W

6°W

10°W

9°W

Con

nem

ara

Broo

ding

and

bea

utifu

lla

ndsc

ape

(p41

0)

Brú

na

Bói

nne

Out

stan

ding

Neo

lithi

c pa

ssag

e to

mbs

(p53

4)

Bla

ck T

axi T

our

Expl

ore

Belfa

st’s

deep

lydi

vide

d pa

st (p

587)

Cau

sew

ay C

oast

al W

alk

Best

coa

stal

hik

e in

Nor

ther

n Ir

elan

d (p

662)

Der

ry/L

ondo

nder

ryW

alle

d ci

ty fe

atur

ing

mus

ic a

nd a

rt (p

635)

R

R

R

#\

#]

#\

#\

#\#]

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#]

#\

#\

#\

#]

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#]

#]

#\

#\

#\

#\#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#]

#]

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#]

#]

#\

#]

#\

#\

#\

#]

# \

#\ #\

#\

#]

#̂

#]

#]

#]

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#_

#\

#]

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\#]

#\

#\

#\

#÷

#÷

#÷

#æ

#÷

#ä#æ

#æ

#ä

#ä#æ

River

Anna

gh

Clare

River Ba

nn

River

Inny

River

Slem

ish

(438

m)

Cui

lcag

hM

ount

ain

(667

m)

Cro

agh

Patr

ick

(765

m)

Lough

Melvin

Lough

Mac

nean

Lower

Lough

Eske

Lough

Gar

tan

Upp

erLo

ugh

Erne

Lough

Gill

Lower

Lough

Erne

Lough

Mac

nean

Upp

er

Lough

Ree

Lough

Nea

gh

Lou

ghre

aPe

nins

ula

Ard

sPe

nins

ula

Inis

how

enPe

nins

ula

Blu

eSt

ack

Mou

ntai

ns

Blo

ody

Fore

land

Ros

guill

Peni

nsul

a

Mal

inH

ead

Mou

rne

Mou

ntai

ns

Sper

rin

Mou

ntai

ns

Coo

ley

Peni

nsul

a

Lec

ale

Peni

nsul

a

Mul

let

Peni

nsul

a

Doo

loug

hVa

lley

Fana

dPe

nins

ula

Inis

how

enH

ead

Irish

Sea

ATLAN

TIC

OCEAN

f

Nor

thCha

nnel

fy

Soun

dof

Gigha

fLa

ggan

Bay

Clew

Bay

Loug

hSw

illy

Kilbr

anna

nSo

und

Don

egal

Bay

Sligo

Bay

Stra

ngford

Loug

h

Ladi

esB

rae

Bat

tleof

Boy

neS

iteLo

ughc

rew

Cai

rns

Gia

nt's

Cau

sew

ay

Brú

naB

óinn

eN

ewgr

ange

Dun

luce

Cas

tle

Bal

lycr

oyN

atio

nalP

ark

Con

nem

ara

Nat

iona

lPar

k

Ros

smor

eFo

rest

Park

Gle

nvea

ghN

atio

nalP

ark

TYRONE

SLI

GO

DUBLI

N

DER

RY

DONEG

AL

LOUTH

DOW

N

CAVA

N

ANTR

IM

MEA

TH

ARM

AGH

ROSCOMMON

LEIT

RIM

MAY

O

MONAGHAN

FERMANAGH

Inis

htur

k

Inis

hmur

ray

Tory

Isla

nd

Inis

hbof

in

Rat

hlin

Isla

nd

Arr

anm

ore

Isla

nd

Ach

ill

Isla

nd

Cla

reIs

land

Kel

ls

New

port

Cul

daff

Mou

ntch

arle

s

Ros

snow

lagh

Ard

ara

Leen

ane

Inni

skee

n

Pol

lato

mis

h

Cle

ggan

Gw

eedo

re

Kel

ls

Kill

ylea

gh

Mag

hery

Ban

gor

Erri

s

Str

okes

tow

n

Port

rush

Lett

er-

frac

k

Bal

lylif

fin

Port

adow

n

Mov

ille

Gle

ncol

umbc

ille

Down

hill

Cla

ddag

hduf

f

Dun

fana

ghy

Layt

own

Car

lingf

ord

Killy

begs

Trim

Kno

ck

Tara

Cra

igav

onLu

rgan

Banb

ridg

e

Lisb

urn

Gor

taho

rk

Con

g

Lim

avad

y

Sla

ne

Boy

leDun

gloe

Car

rick

mac

ross

Kilc

ar

Kill

ala

Dun

lew

y

Cav

an

Bal

lyca

stle

Bal

lyca

stle

Gre

enca

stle

Gle

ntie

s

Bruc

k-le

ss

Car

rick

Bush

mill

s

Nav

an

Cra

wfo

rdsb

urn

Carn

dona

gh

Clo

nes

Car

rick

-on

-Sha

nnon

Antrim

Ballin

a

Mullin

gar

Portstew

art

Cas

tleb

ar

Coleraine

Wes

tport

New

castle

Letterke

nny

Carrick

fergus

Ballymen

a

Ros

common

Larn

e

Mon

agha

n

Om

agh

Bun

cran

a

Don

egal

Bun

dora

n

Slig

o

Arm

agh

Dow

npat

rick

New

ry

Dun

dalk

Enni

skill

en

Stra

bane

Dro

ghed

a

Der

ry

Bang

orBe

lfast

Kin

cass

lagh

Holyw

ood

Newt

owna

rds

#\

050

km0

18m

iles

#e

200m

300m

500m

700m

100m

0

EL

EVA

TIO

N

Top

Exp

erie

nces

›› Ir

elan

d

33

33

10°W

52°N

52°N

53°N

53°N

8°W

7°W

6°W

9°W

Dub

lin

Puls

atin

g an

d fr

iend

lyca

pita

l city

(p54

)

Clo

nmac

nois

eA

ncie

nt m

onas

tic

city

ove

r-lo

okin

g th

e Sh

anno

n (p

509)

Gal

way

Fes

tiva

lsIr

ish

hedo

nism

epit

omis

ed (p

395)

Gle

ndal

ough

Anc

ient

mon

asti

c si

tein

stu

nnin

g se

ttin

g (p

142)

Din

gle

Beau

tifu

l, Ir

ish-

spea

king

fishi

ng to

wn

(p29

9)

Cor

kSu

perb

res

taur

ants

inIr

elan

d’s

seco

nd c

ity (p

223)

Roc

k of

Cas

hel

Brea

thta

king

anc

ient

fort

ress

ato

p ro

ck (p

335)K

ilke

nny

Reg

al m

edie

val c

ity (p

203)

Rin

g of

Ker

ryIr

elan

d’s

mos

t fam

ous

pano

ram

ic lo

op (p

284)

Cla

re C

oast

al W

alk

Cliff

s an

d co

asta

lsp

lend

ours

(p36

4)

c

R

#\

#\

#]

#̂

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#]

#\

#\

#]

#]

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#]

#]

#\#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#]

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#]

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#\

#_

#æ

#æ

#÷

#÷#â

#æ

#–

#æ

#ä

#ä#ä

#æ#÷

Cur

racl

oeB

each

RiverRiver

Black

water

RiverBarrow

River

Avoca

River

Suir

Suck

Mt

Lei

nste

r(7

96m

)

Con

nor

Pass

Lough

Inag

hLo

ugh

Cor

rib

Shee

p's

Hea

dPe

nins

ula

Rin

gPe

nins

ula

Skel

ligIs

land

s

Gal

tee

Mou

ntai

ns

Miz

enH

ead

Bea

raPe

nins

ula

Slie

veB

loom

Mou

ntai

nsW

ickl

owM

ount

ains

Mac

eH

ead

Gle

nof

Ahe

rlow

Loo

pH

ead

Bla

ckH

ead

Din

gle

Peni

nsul

aH

ook

Peni

nsul

a

Miz

enH

ead

Peni

nsul

a

Hag

'sH

ead

Wex

ford

Bay

Ara

nIs

land

s

Mou

thof

the

Shan

non

Youg

hal

Bay

StGeo

rge's

Cha

nnel

Ros

sbeigh

Stra

nd

Don

nelly

'sH

ollo

w

Cur

ragh

mor

eEs

tate

Mitc

hels

tow

nC

aves

Cliffso

fMoher

Sha

nnon

Air

port

Roc

kof

Dun

amai

se

Clonmacnoise

Dur

row

Abb

ey

Ker

ryB

ogVi

llage

Mus

eum

Gou

gane

Bar

raFo

rest

Park

Kill

arne

yN

atio

nalP

ark

Rin

gof

Ker

ry

Fota

Wild

life

Park

Ske

llig

Rin

g

KIL

DARE W

EXFO

RD

WES

TMEA

TH

WIC

KLO

W

OFF

ALY

KIL

KEN

NY

LIM

ERIC

K

GALW

AY

LAOIS

CORK

TIPPER

ARY

KER

RY

CLA

RE

CARLO

W

WAT

ERFO

RD

Inis

hmór

Inis

hmaa

nIn

ishe

er

Om

eyIs

land

Salt

eeIs

land

s

Vale

ntia

Isla

nd

Scat

tery

Isla

nd

Cle

arIs

land

Dur

sey

Isla

nd

Ann

asca

ul

Feth

ardPor

tarl

ingt

on

Bal

timor

e

Tim

ahoe

Kin

sale

Abb

eyle

ix

StM

ullin

s

Por

tum

na

Bal

linga

rry

Lisc

anno

r

Lism

ore

Din

gle

Cas

tlem

aine

Bun

ratt

y

Enni

stym

on

Por

tmag

ee

Sch

ull

Bur

ren

Doo

lin

Bor

ris

Cla

rinb

ridg

eB

ally

-va

ugha

n

Kill

orgl

in

Ros

slar

eS

tran

d

Sha

nnon

brid

ge

Ros

crea

Lisd

oonv

arna

Wat

ervi

lle

Tarb

ert

Dun

garv

an

May

noot

h

Kel

ls

Kilk

ee

Rou

ndst

one

Bal

lina

New

cast

le

Don

aghm

ore

Kill

aloe

Dal

key

Kin

vara Ada

re

Ath

enry

Cas

tlede

rmot

Tram

ore

New

brid

ge

Fern

s

Fano

re

Kilf

enor

a

Bal

lon

Dun

mor

eEa

st

Ski

bber

een

Gor

tK

inni

tty

Loug

hrea

Cap

poqu

in

Car

rick

-on

-Sui

r

Kild

are

Kel

ls

Cor

ofin

Mou

ntsh

anno

n

Mal

ahid

e

Sne

em

Ard

mor

e

Kilm

ore

Qua

y

Kilc

olga

nB

anag

her

List

owel

Oug

hter

ard

Cah

erda

niel

Mou

ntm

ellic

k

Clo

naki

lty

Dur

row

Str

affa

n

Kilr

ush

Cah

ir

Nen

agh

Tralee

Ban

try

Ennisc

orthyH

owth

Tipp

erary

Ballin

asloe

Gleng

arriff

New

Ros

s

Youg

hal

Dun

garvan

Carlow

Tulla

more

Clonm

el

Clifde

n

Mallow

Birr

Ken

mare

Athlone

Ennis

Cor

k

Kilk

enny

Kill

arne

y

Cob

h

Gal

way

Cas

hel

Lim

eric

k

Wex

ford

Wat

erfo

rd

DUB

LIN

Bal

linga

rry

Cas

hel

Wicklow

Gle

ndal

ough

Ros

slare

Harbo

ur

Cas

tleto

wns

hend

Milt

own

Mal

bay

Kilb

egga

n

Bal

lybu

nion

Inch

Cah

erci

veen

#\

#æ

Ryan Ver Berkmoes Counties Clare, Galway and Wexford From Galway to Wexford, with plenty of de-lights in between, Ryan Ver Berkmoes has delighted in the great swath of Ireland. He fi rst visited Galway in 1985 when he remembers a grey place where the locals wandered the muddy tidal fl ats for fun and frolic. Times have changed! From lost rural pubs to lost memory, he’s revelled in a place where his fi rst name brings a smile and his surname brings a ‘huh?’ Follow him at ryanverberkmoes.com

Neil Wilson Belfast, Counties Down & Armagh, Derry & Antrim and Fermanagh & Tyrone Neil’s fi rst visit to Northern Ireland was in 1994, during the fi rst fl ush of post-ceasefi re optimism, and his interest in the history and politics of the place inten-sifi ed a few years later when he found out that most of his mum’s ancestors were from Ulster. Working on recent editions of the Ireland guidebook has allowed him to witness fi rst hand the progress being made towards a lasting peace, as well as

enjoying some excellent hiking and biking in the Ring of Gullion and the Mourne Mountains. Neil is a full-time travel writer based in Edinburgh, Scotland, and has written more than 50 guidebooks for half a dozen publishers.

Read more about Neil at:lonelyplanet.com/members/neilwilson

Read more about Ryan at:lonelyplanet.com/members/ryanverberkmoes

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Fionn Davenport Coordinating author Counties Dublin, Wicklow and Cork Despite its myriad economic problems, Ireland has proven itself to be undaunted, beautiful and just as bloody interesting as it ever was. Fionn suspected as much, but he needed to traipse through his hometown of Dublin and explore the wilds of west Cork to have it confi rmed in spades.

Catherine Le Nevez Counties Kerry, Limerick & Tipperary and Meath, Louth, Cavan & Monaghan Catherine’s wanderlust kicked in when she roadtripped across Europe aged four and she’s been hitting the road at every opportunity since, completing her Doc-torate of Creative Arts in Writing, Masters in Professional Writing, and post-grad qualifi cations in Editing and Publishing along the way. With Celtic connections including Irish and Breton heritage (and a love of Guinness!), Catherine’s trav-

elled throughout every county in the emerald isle, and has covered 20 of them for Lonely Planet, including several editions of this book.

Etain O’Carroll The Midlands; Counties Mayo & Sligo and Donegal Born and bred in the boggy hinterland of the Irish midlands, Etain made the great escape to become a travel writer and photographer but despite criss-crossing the globe somehow the lure of the old sod never quite went away. She now writes about her homeland for a variety of publications and has worked on several editions of Lonely Planet Ireland. Savouring pristine beaches and remote pubs was one of the sheer joys of

research for this edition.Read more about Etain at:

lonelyplanet.com/members/etainocarroll

OUR WRITERS

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 98310th edition – Jan 2012ISBN 978 1 74179 824 1© Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 201210 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

OVERPAGE

MORE WRITERS

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd