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by PAULA DISBROWEphotographs by JODY HORTON

SHELL SHOCKED: Forget the linen. All this party needs is a big, bare table for friends to belly up to guajillo-kissed crawfish, corn, potatoes, and sausage. Jars of pickled veggies (green beans, carrots, red onions) provide a crunchy, vinegary balance to fiery flavors. Don’t forget plenty of cold beer. And napkins!

Roll up your sleeves and crank the music for the South’s ultimate springtime feast. Chef Tim Byres celebrates crawfish season with a Texas twist

CRAWFISH BOIL 101 southernliving.com/crawfish

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In the South,it’s not unusual for a party to begin with a very large pot and a wood fire. We’re

funny that way. Southerners own the art of outdoor cooking, and you’d be

hard-pressed to find a livelier example than a crawfish boil. (FYI, if you prefer

to use large, sweet Gulf shrimp instead, no one will complain.) We love a rowdy

boil because it’s as much an occasion as a meal. The fragrant pot and tumble of

ingredients beckon us outside around a table, elbow-to-elbow with friends and

fingers dusted with red spice. It’s a juicy, loud, messy, and delicious seasonal

pleasure—mudbugs are at their best right now. Tim Byres, one of the smartest

young chefs around, gets it. His restaurants, SMOKE and Chicken Scratch (part

of a large alfresco space with live music, room for kids to play, and a garden),

are devoted to cooking over fire, from-scratch food, and community. We love

the funky, rustic edge he’s brought to shiny Dallas. And we love his Texas-spin

on the boil even more.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Standing room only: Partygoers gather at the shucking table for oysters before the Texas-style crawfish feast; Tim Byres and a friend dump the crawfish boil onto the table—the insulated cooler keeps the potatoes, sausage, and corn hot while the crawfish finish cooking; a frosty Woodshed Margarita (recipe, page 103); guests twist, peel, and tug on crawfish tails; Tim’s confidence with wood and smoke extends to spirits, including Cedar-Infused Tequila (see page 103); a mudbug salute before a spicy bath.

THE CRAWFISH BOILM A K E S 1 0 TO 1 2 S E RV I N G S H A N D S - O N T I M E 2 0 M I N . T O TA L T I M E 2 H O U R S , 3 5 M I N . , I N C LU D I N G S AU C E A N D S P I C E M I X

Chef Tim Byres’ boil works great with shrimp too. It’s a one-pot meal in itself with spiced potatoes, sausage, and fresh corn, but no one will complain if you also serve a bowl of brac-ing slaw, bean salad, pitchers of margaritas, and a mile-high Tequila-Key Lime Meringue Pie (recipes, pages 102-103). Cook the crawfish on the stovetop in two batches for ease. Or, if you have a 10-gal. pot and propane cooker (or wood fire), boil the crawfish outside all in one go. To do so, simply double the first five ingredients and water.

3 celery ribs, cut into 2-inch pieces 1/2 lemon, cut into 1/8-inch-thick slices 1/2 yellow onion, coarsely chopped

1 1/2 cups Crawfish Spice Mix

Tejano Red Sauce, divided

5 1/2 lb. red new potatoes (about 30)

6 (1/4-lb.) andouille sausage links

6 ears fresh corn, cut in half

20 lb. live fresh crawfish, purged (see Crawfish Connection, page 103)*

1. Pour 3 1/4 gal. water into a 7 1/2-gal. heavy stockpot; add celery, lemon, onion, spice mix, and 1 1/2 cups red sauce. Bring to a boil; add potatoes. Boil 20 minutes or until potatoes can be pierced easily with a knife. Transfer potatoes to a large, clean cooler to keep warm. Add sausage to pot; boil 5 minutes. Add corn; boil 5 minutes. Transfer sausage and corn to cooler.

2. Add half of crawfish to stockpot; boil 8 to 10 minutes or until crawfish tails curl. Transfer crawfish to a large bowl; toss with desired amount of Tejano Red Sauce. Transfer to cooler. Repeat boiling procedure with remaining crawfish. Serve with corn, sausage, and potatoes.

*6 to 8 lb. unpeeled, large raw shrimp may be substituted. Boil 3 minutes or just until shrimp turn pink.

CRAWFISH SPICE MIXM A K E S A B O U T 3 C U P S H A N D S - O N T I M E 1 0 M I N . T O TA L T I M E 1 0 M I N .

Dill, marjoram, and coriander add an aromatic twist to the traditional Cajun seasoning. Use this mix for any kind of seafood boil.

3/4 cup mustard seeds3/4 cup coriander seeds1/2 cup kosher salt1/4 cup celery seeds1/4 cup dried marjoram1/4 cup dill seeds

2 Tbsp. sugar

1 Tbsp. whole allspice

1 Tbsp. ground red pepper

1 tsp. whole cloves

20 bay leaves, crushed

Stir together all ingredients, and store in an airtight container up to 2 months.

TEJANO RED SAUCEM A K E S 5 C U P S H A N D S - O N T I M E 2 0 M I N . T O TA L T I M E 1 H O U R , 5 M I N .

This versatile sauce takes its acidity from tomatillos, not vinegar, and its earthy spice from guajillo chiles, which can be found in many supermarkets and Latin groceries. Toast the chiles first to coax out their flavor. Use the sauce to spice up the crawfish boil, or drizzle it on tacos, grilled chicken, or eggs.

2 lb. tomatillos, husks removed

4 oz. dried guajillo chiles

16 garlic cloves

4 tsp. olive oil

2 1/2 tsp. salt

1. Preheat oven to 500°. Cut tomatillos in half or quarters, depending on size.

2. Spread chiles in a single layer on a baking sheet; toast 1 to 2 minutes or until chiles puff and become fragrant. (Chiles burn quickly, so keep a watchful eye.) Cut chiles open with kitchen shears; remove seeds. Cut off stems.

3. Sauté garlic in hot oil in a large sauce-pan over medium-high heat 2 minutes or until garlic begins to brown. Add tomatillos, salt, and 1 qt. water. Bring to a boil, and cook, stirring often, 4 minutes. Add chiles; cook, stirring occasionally, 5 to 10 minutes

SMOKE: BURN AFTER READINGIt takes Lone Star conviction to step off the path of star chefs and swanky restaurants to

follow your gut. But that’s what Tim Byres did when he ditched fine dining for a road trip

devoted to fried chicken, barbecue, and handmade food with integrity. “The business

started to seem more about valet parking and napkins than community and food,” he

says. His restaurants and buzz-worthy new book, Smoke: New Firewood Cooking, celebrate

both. “The most fulfilling thing I’ve done as a chef is to strip it back.” We love the book’s

grilling and smoking recipes, inspirational how-to illustrations, and rugged sensibility.

Next-Level Margarita

Takes its smoky flavor from cedar-

infused tequila

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or until tomatillos are soft and peppers have rehydrated. Cool 10 minutes.

4. Purée mixture, in batches, in a blender or food processor. Pour through a fine wire-mesh strainer into a container, discarding solids. Cool completely. Refrigerate in an airtight container up to 4 days.

WOODSHED MARGARITAM A K E S 5 1/ 2 C U P S H A N D S - O N T I M E 1 0 M I N . T O TA L T I M E 5 0 M I N . , N OT I N C LU D I N G T EQ U I L A

1 cup sugar

2 1/2 cups Cedar-Infused Tequila or any white, silver, or gold tequila

1 1/4 cups fresh lime juice1/2 cup orange liqueur (such as

Cointreau)

Limes, thinly sliced

1. Bring sugar and 1 cup water to a boil over medium-high heat; boil, stirring occasion-ally, 5 minutes or until sugar dissolves. Remove from heat; cool to room tempera-ture (about 30 minutes). Refrigerate in an airtight container up to 1 week.

2. Stir together sugar mixture, tequila, lime juice, and orange liqueur in a pitcher. Serve over ice with lime slices.

CEDAR-INFUSED TEQUILAPlace 6 cedar grilling papers, broken into pieces, in a 1-qt. jar. Pour in 1 (750-milliliter) bottle white or gold tequila. Cover and let stand at room temperature 2 to 4 days. (The longer it sits, the more intense the cedar flavor.) Pour tequila through a fine wire-mesh strainer lined with a coffee filter or cheesecloth into a clean 1-qt. jar. Refrigerate, covered, up to 3 months. M A K E S about 3 cups

BLUE CHEESE COLESLAWM A K E S 9 C U P S H A N D S - O N T I M E 3 5 M I N . T O TA L T I M E 3 5 M I N .

Stir in the red cabbage just before serving so the slaw doesn’t turn pink.

2. Peel away shell from widest part of tail.

3. Hold tip of tail; gently pull out tender meat.

HANDS-ON: SHED THE SHELL

TEQUILA–KEY LIME MERINGUE PIEM A K E S 1 0 TO 1 2 S E RV I N G S H A N D S - O N T I M E 3 0 M I N . T O TA L T I M E

4 H O U R S , 1 0 M I N .

1. Twist and snap head away from tail.

3/4 cup sour cream

2 Tbsp. white vinegar

1 Tbsp. green hot sauce

1 tsp. kosher salt1/2 tsp. celery seeds3/4 cup crumbled blue

cheese1/2 large head green

cabbage, shredded

1 medium carrot, shredded

4 thinly sliced green onions

1 1/2 cups shredded red cabbage

Whisk together first 5 ingre-dients and 1/2 cup blue cheese in a very large bowl. Add green cabbage, carrot, and half of green onions; toss to coat. Just before serving, transfer to a serving bowl, and stir in red cabbage. Sprinkle with remaining blue cheese and green onions.

BEAN-JICAMA SALADM A K E S 1 0 TO 1 2 S E RV I N G S H A N D S - O N T I M E 3 0 M I N . T O TA L T I M E 1 3 H O U R S , 3 5 M I N .

The key to cooking tender beans with the skins intact? A long soak and gentle simmer.

2 lb. dried pinto beans

2 dried ancho chile peppers

1 bunch fresh oregano

Kitchen string

2 Tbsp. ground cumin

1 1/2 qt. hot water

1 large yellow onion, diced

3 to 5 large jalapeño peppers, seeded and diced (about 3/4 cup)

1/2 cup minced garlic (15 to 20 cloves)

3 Tbsp. olive oil

8 green onions, sliced3/4 cup sherry vinegar1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

2 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. kosher salt, divided

1 medium jicama (about 1 lb.), peeled and cut into thin strips1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro1/3 cup fresh lime juice

1. Rinse and sort beans according to package directions. Place in a large Dutch oven; add water to 3 inches above beans. Cover and let soak 8 hours. Drain.

2. Preheat oven to 500°. Spread chiles in a single layer on a baking sheet; toast 1 to 2 minutes or until chiles puff and become fragrant. Cut chiles open with kitchen shears; remove seeds. Cut off stems.

3. Tie oregano bunch with kitchen string. Return

beans to Dutch oven; add oregano, chiles, cumin, and 1 1/2 qt. hot water. Bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce heat to low, and simmer, stirring occasionally, 2 to 2 1/2 hours or until beans are tender, add-ing more water as needed.

4. Remove oregano and chiles from bean mixture; discard. Spoon beans in a single layer on a baking sheet; cool completely (about 40 minutes). Cover and chill 3 hours.

5. Sauté onion, jalapeños, and garlic in 3 Tbsp. hot oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat 8 to 10 minutes or until onion is tender and slightly charred.

6. Toss together beans, sautéed vegetables, green onions, vinegar, 1/4 cup oil, and 2 Tbsp. kosher salt in a large bowl.

7. Toss together jicama, cilantro, lime juice, and remaining 1 tsp. salt. Serve over bean salad.

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All recipes adapted from Smoke: New Firewood Cooking© by Tim Byres. Published by Rizzoli.

1 1/2 cups graham cracker crumbs

6 Tbsp. melted butter1/3 cup sugar

1 tsp. ground cinnamon1/4 tsp. kosher salt

8 large egg yolks

2 (14-oz.) cans sweetened condensed milk

3/4 cup Key lime juice

2 Tbsp. lime zest

1 Tbsp. tequila

3 Tbsp. cold water

1 1/2 Tbsp. cornstarch

2/3 cup boiling water

4 large egg whites

1 1/2 tsp. cream of tartar

1 cup sugar

1 1/2 tsp. vanilla extract1/8 tsp. kosher salt

1. Preheat oven to 350°. Stir together first 5 ingredients; firmly press mixture on bottom and up sides of a lightly greased 9 1/2-inch deep-dish pie plate. Bake 15 minutes or until lightly browned. Transfer to a wire rack, and cool completely

(about 30 minutes).

2. Whisk together egg yolks and next 4 ingredients in a large bowl; pour mixture into cooled crust. Bake at 350° for 25 minutes or until set. Cool completely on a wire rack (about 1 hour).

3. Preheat oven to 375°. Whisk 3 Tbsp. cold water into cornstarch in a 1-qt. saucepan; whisk in 2/3 cup boiling water. Cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, 1 minute or until a thick gel forms. Remove from heat; cool com-pletely (about 30 minutes).

4. Beat 4 egg whites and cream of tartar at medium-high speed with a heavy-duty electric stand mixer, using whisk attachment, until foamy. Gradually add 1 cup sugar; beat until glossy, stiff peaks form. Beat in vanilla and salt. Slowly beat in cornstarch mixture. Beat 3 minutes.

5. Spread meringue over cooled pie, and bake at 375° for 15 minutes or until meringue is golden brown. Transfer to wire rack, and cool completely (about 45 minutes). Serve at room temperature, or cover and chill 8 to 24 hours.

CRAWFISH CONNECTION: ORDER, CLEAN, BOILOrder direct from lacrawfish.com or cajungrocer.com, and figure on 2 lb. live

crawfish per person. To purge crawfish of mud and debris, place them a

48-qt. cooler with a pourable spout. Add cold water and 2 cups salt. Gently

stir crawfish; let stand 3 minutes. Open spout, tilt cooler, and rinse crawfish

with a steady stream of cold water until water runs clear.

Meringue

The secret stabi-lizer in this mile-high meringue is cornstarch.

Filling

A luscious Key lime custard gets its kick from a splash of tequila.

Crust

The key to a crunchy crust is to distribute it evenly in the pan.