pro traveller magazine - issue 50

For the More Discerning Family TravellerIssue 50

BELLA

ITALIA!12 Page

Italian Special

Plus...

QuirkyCayman Brac

www.protraveller.co.uk

Coming Soon...

Information, Features, Offers and News, around the clockfor Travel Enthusiasts around the World.

Travel and Tourism Content for terrestrial & online Radio Stations.

Travel Radio Streaming for Travel Agencies, Tourist Centres, etc.Centres, etc.

Globetrotter Radio has opportunities for experienced travel writers and broadcasters.Contact us if you would like to know more - [email protected]

Information and enquiries: [email protected]

3

Pro Traveller Issue 50

DUBROVNIK’S WELCOME RETURNLess than twenty years ago this former Adriatic favourite was devastated bywar. Now, both the city and the tourism industry has made a miraculousrecovery.

BELLA ITALIA !The first of a two part special following Trevor Claringbold on a family friendlytour of magical Italy. In this issue we’ll visit :

POMPEII Destroyed almost 2000 years ago, but still drawing in the tourists.

EASTERN FLAVOURS IN TUSCANY With glorious countryside and wonderful old towns, and great cuisine.

LAZING IN LIGURIA The Italian Riviera may not be as famous as it’s French neighbour - but for families it has a lot to offer.

RIMINI IN GRAND STYLE Rimini may be the home of the Italian package tour market, but it is still possible to do it with class.

OFF-PEAK EDINBURGHThe Scottish Capital is a year round festival city, but how captivating can itbe in a rain soaked weekend out of season.

QUIRKY CAYMAN BRACKaty Dartford takes a leisurely wander around the smallest of the CaymanIslands, and samples the great Caribbean food.

OVER THE WATERDay trips to France are still big business. We sample two options on the shortsea route from Dover to Calais.

A LAND OF KINGS AND CASTLESThe Upper Seine Valley boasts magnificent chateaus and glorious country-side - but few visitors. We look at what they’re missing.

7

12

15

19

23

27

30

34

38

www.protraveller.co.uk 7

Relaxing on the moonlit terrace, enjoying a superbmeal, with the waves of the Adriatic lappingagainst the shore just below us, it’s hard to imaginea more perfect setting. A classical guitarist sere-nades our party, as the lights of Dubrovnik twinkleacross the bay. But just twenty years ago the lightswere far less inviting.

The Hotel Libertas, on the outskirts of this historiccity, had a grandstand view of the shelling thatrained down from enemy forces in the mountainsabove. Then on December 6th 1991, this onceglamorous hotel became the target, as shells burstthrough the roof, gutting large parts of the complex.The terrace where we were now sitting was cra-tered, and covered with debris. As the war pro-gressed, the remains of the hotel were used tohouse refugees, although as a memorial in the carpark now attests this was still by no means a safehaven.

Once peace was restored the site lay abandoned,with the balconies and foyer overgrown, and therooms full of rubbish. And yet the idyllic locationstill attracted those wanting to swim and sunbathe.

It’s just one story that could be repeated countlesstimes across the city. Despite the damage, thepeople gradually came back and soon found thatDubrovnik had lost nothing of its perfect setting.The waters of the Adriatic were still the sameglorious blue, the narrow streets still oozed charm,an array of pretty boats bobbed up and down in theharbour as before, and of course the sun still shone.

The Libertas Hotel has now undergone a massiverebuild and renovation, and is under the wing of theRixos Hotel group. The transformation is amazing,and without doubt it is probably the best place tostay if you are visiting Dubrovnik. The rooms are

DUBROVNIKA Croatian Phoenix

Rising from the Ashes

Trevor Claringbold takes a look at this onetime favourite for British Visitors, and sees

how it is making a comeback.


www.protraveller.co.uk8

large, bright, and well appointed, with flat screentelevisions that pop up at the touch of a button. Theopen plan layout of the rooms may not be toeveryone’s liking, but that is more than offset by theunbeatable panoramic sea views.

There are no less than five bars, and a choice ofplaces to eat – and you will want to try them all, asthe food is first rate. But this is a place to relax.Indoor and outdoor swimming pools, spacious sunterraces, gardens, and a relaxation and wellness areawill see that everyone will have the best opportunityto feel refreshed.

Of course you can also swim in the sea, as an areadirectly in front of the hotel is marked off and keptimmaculately clean for guests. Watching the mandive with his basket to collect any loose bits ofseaweed was a first for me!

In the evenings, try the casino or nightclub, or justenjoy your drinks on the terrace, washed over by thewarm airs of the Adriatic. In many places, the hotelis just somewhere to reside while you explore theregion. Here, however, the hotel becomes part of theexperience.

It’s also in the best position, as its just 15 minuteswalk into the city, and yet that is far enough to besecluded, quiet, and not to be bothered by the crowdsthat herd off of the cruise ships each morning. Thosecrowds can be a problem. If possible, always leaveany visit into the walled city until the afternoon,when they have all either gone back to their ships, ordeparted on coach tours.

Walking the streets of the old city is a joy, though,and certainly one to be enjoyed at a leisurely pace. Awalk around the city walls – or at least the southernhalf - is well worth the few Euros it costs. It can be abit nerve-wracking in places, but the views bothacross the city, and out to sea are breathtaking. Themain entrance is just inside the main gate, and ticketsare available next to Big Onofrio’s Fountain.

Dubrovnik was once a major player in the sea tradeof southern Europe, even rivalling Venice in impor-tance. It was protected as a kind of neutral City State,basically being everybody’s friend, at the same timeas spying on them all! Nowadays, its churches, cathe-drals, and myriad of other significant historic build-ings draw visitors from around the world.

The long main street, or Placa, with its marbledpaving slabs gleaming in the sunlight, is awash withice cream parlours and gift shops. But step into anyof the narrow side streets, and it’s easy to imagine



you are stepping back in time. Steep steps lead uppast overhanging buildings, with washing linesstretching between them and women chatting fromwindow to window.

Back on the tourist trail, the Dominican Monasteryalso houses a small but interesting museum. Thereare some interesting artefacts, although much wasapparently plundered during the Napoleonic time.The Emperor, of course, was not known for his loveof monastic buildings, and whilst his troops were theoccupying force here the monastery was used asstables for his horses. On the walls around the centralcourtyard there is still evidence of hollowed outstones that were used to hold water for them.

As you walk under the tall bell tower, the smallsquare in front of St Blaise’s church is the start of theother main street, Pred Dvorom. This is fronted byimpressive buildings such as the City Hall and theRectors Palace, and leads along to the Cathedral.Take a diversion along the Od Puca, to the livelymarket in Gundulic’s Square. This is where you’llfind the best bargains, although to be fair Croatia isstill amongst the best value for money of all theMediterranean countries.

The Old Port is one of the most popular places toamble. Despite the mixture of traditional and moderncraft, the whole place has a kind of timeless air aboutit. It’s surrounded on three sides by high walls thatonce protected the city, but today is a busy workingharbour. Small boats take groups of tourists alongthe coast, or out to the islands, sometimes in glassbottomed vessels that allow you to enjoy the crystalclear waters.

With such a maritime heritage, it’s no surprise thatseafood is high on the menu for most of the area’sbetter restaurants. If you’re not too confident withoysters, mussels, squid, and the like, then this is the

place to try them. They are unlike most others I havetasted, and have a far ‘softer’ quality that was partic-ularly enjoyable. Croatia is known also for its wines,of course, and you don’t need to travel far outsideDubrovnik to see the hills lined with vineyards.

Back on the terrace at the Hotel Rixos Libertas, as itis now called, we were happily enjoying the seafood,and the wine. The old Napoleonic fortress on top ofthe mountain is now nicely lit, and there is a feelingof ‘forgive and forget’ amongst the Balkan peoplethat I spoke to. The emphasis is on attracting visitorsback to see for themselves that this is still a regionwith plenty to offer.

Those with long memories of European travel willrecall how popular the former Yugoslavia used to befor British visitors. It won’t be long before thosemasses ‘rediscover’ it, so I think the smart advice isto plan your trip pretty soon!

DUBROVNIK

Hotel Rixos Libertas - www.rixos.comLiechtensteinov put 3

20 000 Dubrovnik, Croatia+385 (020) 200 000

Dubrovnik Tourist BoardBrsalje 5, Dubrovnik

Tel: +385 20 312 011

Photos - Trevor Claringbold



PHOTOGRAPHY ADVENTURES SETTO CHANGE CHILDREN’S FOCUSDURING OCTOBER HALF TERM

Children are being given the oppor-tunity to delve deeper into theworld of photography this Octoberhalf term with new family holidaysin India and Morocco.

Two new trips from The AdventureCompany will allow the wholefamily’s imaginations to run wild.Whether exploring exotic templesor colourful souks, travelling out oftraditional high season ensures min-imal crowds while the weather con-ditions will be ideal for photos.

Prices for the trips, which combinethe excitement of a real familyadventures with photography, startfrom just £899pp including flights,accommodation and tuition.

Families will also receive a free 50page photo book of their favouritework as a lasting momento to takehome at the end of the trip.

Call 0845 287 1198 or visitwww.adventurecompany.co.uk

Keep the kids occupied with alittle help from Peppa Pig World atPaultons Family Theme Park!

If you’re want a guaranteed fun-filled day out look no further thanPaultons Family Theme Park inHampshire, which is now home toPeppa Pig World as well as morethan 60 other rides and attractions.

Set in over 140 acres of beautifullandscaped parkland on the edge ofthe New Forest National Park inHampshire, Paultons Park is stillowned and run by the same familythat first opened its gates to thepublic in 1983.

Exclusive to Paultons Park, PeppaPig World is a magical kingdom thatbrings to life one of TV’s most popu-lar children’s characters. Featuringseven magical rides, a host of funanimated attractions, indoor andoutdoor play areas and a Peppa-themed toy shop, Peppa Pig Worldis destined to keep little ones enter-tained for hours.

For more information : www.paultonspark.co.uk

A SURPRISINGLY SIMPLE SOLUTIONTO TRAVELLING WITH CHILDREN

Planes, trains and automobiles nolonger have to be stressful, thanksto ‘My Travel Surprise’ – the firstever one-stop shop for children’stravel toys.

My Travel Surprise offers a range oflightweight, budget-friendly gamesand activities specially designed tokeep youngsters entertained on anyjourneys or holidays.

My Travel Surprise was founded bymum-of-two Amanda Mitchell, whowas frustrated at the lack of suita-ble toys available to keep her chil-dren occupied during flights and cartrips.

My Travel Surprise has a range ofunusual toys that are not readilyavailable on the high street andstart at just £2.50.

Each toy ordered will be deliveredpartially wrapped in cartoon travelpaper, so parents can give it totheir child as a surprise gift.

www.mytravelsurprise.co.uk

TRAVELLERS TITBITSPro Traveller Issue 50


ITALIAN SPECIAL

Pompeii was a place I always knew I had to visit oneday. Ever since I first learned of the city that wasdestroyed by a volcano, and rediscovered centurieslater, I felt consumed with curiosity. However, likemost people before they see the place, I had manypreconceptions that placed an image in my head asto what I’d find. Also, I suspect like many people,those expectations were exceeded many times overwhen I actually visited in person.

Pompeii is unique. An emotive, three-dimensionaltime capsule of life in a well-off, and important,Roman city. It was a thriving trading city, close tothe bay of Naples, with many high-status houses andpublic buildings. But the 20,000 inhabitants hadalready suffered at the hands of mother nature just 16years before the fateful volcano, when a powerfulearthquake destroyed much of the city. Then in79AD, after days of throwing ash and smoke out into

the air, Mount Vesuvius finally erupted. Many of thepopulation had already left, but around 2000 arethought to have remained. They perished as thepoisonous fumes from the volcanic debris smotheredPompeii, and a deep layer of ash and pumice coveredall but the tallest buildings.

Finding your way around isn’t too difficult once youhave worked out the grid of the main thoroughfares.Pick up a map from ticket office, though, as its easyto miss some of the less obvious places of interest inthe maze of smaller streets. I also suggest you setaside a whole day, as to try and see Pompeii in lesscan be frustrating. Yes, it’s possible to walk aroundthe main sights in half a day, but for me the mostrewarding aspect of a visit is to experience what itwas like to have lived here 2000 years ago. The bestway to do that is to understand each place as you pass,and create a picture in you mind of how it was –almost like wandering through your own historicalscenario.

Such is the wealth of detail that is still easy to see,this is not a difficult thing to do. Imagine the bustleof activity around the busy shops, selling things fromthe large pots that are still in place. In the oncewell-to-do area where many of the high status homeswere, the Casa del Fauno, a mosaic by the entrancesays ‘welcome’, and inside there is still a small statueof a Faun. (Actually it’s a copy, as the original, likemany artefacts from Pompeii and the surroundingarea, is in a Naples museum).


ITALIAN SPECIAL


Of course, there are also many reminders of thetragedy that befell Pompeii. Next to the huge andlargely intact amphitheatre I found an area that wasapparently used as a kind of recreation ground – evenwith a swimming pool. I was told that when this areawas first excavated, the archaeologists found theskeletons of many young men huddled in the corner.They must have been using the area at the exactmoment the volcano erupted, and the subsequentdevastation was so rapid that they had no time toescape.

One of my favourite places – especially at the end ofthe day - is the Forum, situated at one of the mainintersections in the city. Quite apart from the array ofimportant buildings that surround it, such as thetemples, the main market, and a basilica, it’s just aperfect place to just pause and think. Stand in themain square, and look along the length of the grassy

Foro. This was the heart of a busy, prosperous, andpowerful Roman city.

But in the background, the dark and infinitely morepowerful shape of Mount Vesuvius gazes menacing-ly down on its most famous victim. I stand for amoment, lost in time, wondering what I would havedone had I been here when the mountain erupted.The answer is never pleasant.

There is so much to witness here, and in so manydifferent ways. From a clinically historical point ofview, I guess it must be the most complete Romancity still in existence. And that’s only what you canexamine today. There is still a considerable amountthat is yet to be excavated. It reveals so much about



ITALIAN SPECIAL

POMPEII

Photos - Natalia Kolesnikova and Trevor Claringbold

the way everyday citizens lived at that time, and howa city of this size functioned.

But without a doubt, unless your heart is as hard asthe stone from the mountain itself, you’ll find this anemotional place to visit. No matter how many timesI see them, the numerous haunting stone casts aroundthe site, showing actual inhabitants in the positionsthey died, always leave a lasting impression.

Above all else, Pompeii is not just another historicalsite. It was a real city with real people, and some-where I recommend everyone to visit at least once intheir lifetime.

And, if the experts are right, Vesuvius is overdue foranother major eruption… so you shouldn’t leave ittoo long before making your trip!



ITALIAN SPECIAL

Follow the Arno river upstream from Florence, and youhead into the high rolling hills of Eastern Tuscany. It’s apeaceful land given over largely to agriculture, but wewere treated to an eastern flavour of an entirely differentkind when we arrived at our chosen accommodation.

The Villa Poggio di Gaville is run by cheerful Palestinianfood enthusiast, Jamal, and his equally friendly Englishwife, Louise. It’s a beautifully converted farmhouse,lavishly furnished with acquisitions from their travels tothe near and far east. Arriving just before dusk, we wereenticed up the gravel drive by the last rays of sunlightdancing across the pale yellow walls. The trees werealready just silhouettes against the patio lights, and theonly sound to disturb the peaceful valley air was theorchestra of crickets.

Guests are very much encouraged to make it their homewhilst staying, and the personal feel extends to the rooms,which are all individually decorated. The shuttered win-dows look out across the surrounding fields, adding tothe secluded, rural feel. The villa has its own stables,with placid, friendly horses, and in the field below is the

large heated pool – ideal for those lazy Tuscan days,and invitingly illuminated at night.

If we had to single out one particular memory, however,it would have to be the food. Let me first say that youare genuinely lucky if you are one of the chosen fewwho get to eat an evening meal on the intimate patio.That’s because this is only a bed and breakfast establish-ment. Jamal cooks in the evening, only if there areenough guests, and if he feels like it. So there are nopromises or guarantees, just a real treat for those whoare fortunate enough.

The cuisine is unique. A blend of Italian, English, andMiddle Eastern tastes, with a hefty slice of the Far Eastthrown in for good measure. Try the succulent spinachdumplings, topped with cheese, and served alongside atangy carrot and ginger puree. It’s also interesting tonote that being an Agritourismo establishment, most ofthe food is sourced locally. There was an additionaltreat that was not strictly Agritouristic, but was certain-ly very warming. A bottle of the popular Italian liqueur

‘Lemoncello’ appeared, and proved an instant hit. It’s awonderfully tasty drink, but beware, as it’s also one

AGRITOURISMOAND EASTERNFLAVOURS INTUSCANY

Trevor Claringbold takes thefamily for a relaxing ruralbreak in the heart of Italy



ITALIAN SPECIAL

that easily tricks you into thinking it’s far less potentthan it really is!

Agritourismo began back in the 1950’s, and is essentiallythe combining of agriculture and tourism – or ruralholidays using farms and cottages. Many will actuallyinvolve guests in the farms’, or other local activities. Itis now well established, and actually defined underItalian law. The properties vary dramatically, but oftennow have very good facilities – like the Villa Poggio diGaville.

The location of the farm makes it ideal for days out. Lessthan an hour to the north lies one of Italy’s great cities –Florence. It’s close enough to visit more than once,which is good because you’ll never see even all the mainsights in a single day. In the opposite direction is theimpressive historic city of Siena, which is also worth avisit, but we headed an hour south-east to a lesser knowngem – Arezzo.

Arezzo is the provincial capital today, but delve backinto its history, and evidence of it’s time as a majorRoman and Etruscan city is all around. The Romanamphitheatre is interesting rather than stunning, but themuseum next door has some intriguing relics.

You need to jump forward a thousand years or so, how-ever, if you’re to discover Arezzo’s real treasure. In theheart of the old town is the fairly plain and unassumingBasilica di San Francesco, built around 1322. A centurylater, the local Bacci family commissioned Piero dellaFrancesca to work on the decoration of the choir, and aseries of glorious frescos were born. They have beenacclaimed as on a par with those by Michelangelo inRome, and are held in such high regard that visitors arelimited to just 25 at a time – so book your tickets inadvance during the peak months.

Elsewhere Arezzo is a charming, peaceful, and relaxingtown. It’s the kind of place where you benefit hugelyfrom just wandering. Explore the side streets, alleyways,and the other palaces, piazzas, churches, and cathedrals.At the top of the hill – well, of all the hills, since eachleads there – is the Duomo. If it has a slightly confusedarchitecture, it’s because it was begun in the 13th Centu-ry, and gradually built across the centuries, only finally



ITALIAN SPECIAL

AREZZO

The Villa Poggio di Gaville, and other fineaccommodation throughout Italy, can be

booked via:www.holidaylettings.co.uk/96848

holidaylettings.co.uk is a TripAdvisor companythat represents over 40,000 holiday homes

available to rent worldwide. Book direct withowners of the homes for that personal touch.

The impressions of a 9-year old

“I was really happy here, and didn’t want to leave. Thefood was nice, and even when it was something Ididn’t like, they changed it for me - which was nice.

The pool was great, because I had it all to myself, andI helped to feed the horses in the stables.

The best thing was the people though, and Louise andJamal both felt like friends. They always had time totalk, and tell us about things. I’d like to go again .” Photos - Natalia Kolesnikova

completing in the 20th Century. Having climbed thesteep streets, its worth taking in the view from thefortress walls, before resting a while in the pleasant,shady park.

Heading back down the main street, the Corso Italia, it’shard to find a building that isn’t worthy of note. Anarrow side street entices you to the appropriatelynamed Piazza Grande. Overlooked by a large bell tower,and with a magnificent palisade along one side, thislarge square is the home to a huge monthly antiquesmarket. Over 600 stalls cram into the Piazza Grande onthe first Sunday of each month, and the Saturday of thesame weekend, and all around are the showrooms ofantique furniture.

You can’t fail to sense the history that surrounds you,and it’s a wonder that Arezzo isn’t completely over-whelmed by visitors. Instead, it is very much one ofthose wonderful discoveries that makes your holidayspecial, and provides lasting memories. The Italiansknow of it, but they are wisely keeping it to themselves.

Back at the farmhouse, Louise and Jamal are tending thehorses, and deciding if they should cook for the gueststonight. They tell me that they have big plans for thefuture, including a health and wellness centre, and possi-bly themed stays such as cookery courses. I can imagineboth will be very popular in these idyllic surroundings.

It’s a truly wonderful place to relax and enjoy all thatthis part of Tuscany has to offer.Even more, you leave with the feeling you’ve beenstaying with friends - and we fullyintend to return and see them again someday. For now,though, we are just looking forward to another meal, andanother glass of Lemoncello.



ITALIAN SPECIAL

www.turismoinliguria.it

ESSENTIAL INFORMATION

Capital: Rome

Language: Italian

Population: 60 million

Currency: Euro

Time Zone: GMT + 1

InternationalDialling Code: +39



ITALIAN SPECIAL

It may not be as famous or chic as it’s neighbour justacross the border, but the Italian Riviera in manyways has more to offer than the French equivalent.Liguria, to give this stretch of coast and its hinterlandthe correct title, can be roughly split into two parts,with the regional capital, Genoa, in the centre.

To the west of Genoa, the Riviera di Ponente ispredominantly a succession of small, but extremelypopular, resorts, where the hotel lined seafront ofone blends seamlessly into the hotel lined seafront ofthe next. The main resorts had their heyday in thestylish era from the 1880’s until the Second WorldWar, when they attracted wealthy travellers from farafield. San Remo, for example, had a significantRussian community, with notable visitors whichincluded The Empress Maria Alexandrovna andTchaikovsky.

Today, most of those lavish grand hotels had longsince faded, and to be fair now look decidedly shab-by. There are exceptions, of course, but for the mostpart it’s the more modern hotel complexes which arespringing up on the fringes of many resorts that offerthe 21st century traveller the expected levels of com-fort.

The coast on the eastern side of Genoa – the Rivieradi Levante - is generally less hectic, with mostlysmaller, prettier resorts, & with a far more scenicallyappealing rugged coastline. In many places themountains come right down to the coast, ending withsteep cliffs, sprinkled with precariously clingingumbrella pines, that plunge into the deep blue watersof the Mediterranean below.

If you’re looking for somewhere to stay, the relaxed,attractive town of St Margherita Ligure is a goodchoice. Lazing on the east coast of the peninsular thatleads to the ultra-chic Portofino, it’s just far enoughfrom the main coastal road to avoid the constanttraffic of it’s larger neighbour, Rapallo, whilst stillremaining within easy road and rail reach of Genoaand the rest of the Riviera. The large marina iscrammed with an expensive array of gleaming whitepleasure boats bobbing gently up and down in thesparkling waters. The bright spacious promenade islined with the orange and yellow facades of grandhouses, and interwoven with majestic hotels.

It’s not a big resort, but manages to cram in a greatdeal without feeling overburdened in any way. Withthe exception of the pretty church of San Michele up



ITALIAN SPECIAL

on the hill, most of the attractions here revolvearound the waterfront. It’s easy to take trips out fromhere by train (the station is at the north end of theharbour), or by boat. Regular boat services run toother resorts, up and down the coast, and it’s arewarding way to experience the true beauty of thispart of the region. It’s also possible to hire a boat andcommand your own schedule, of take one of themany fishing or diving trips.

St Margherita Ligure is famed for is watersports, andlies on the edge of a stunning underwater treasurechest of colourful corals, and marine life. It’s aprotected area, and the guided dives see enthusiastsfrom across the world.

If you want a different perspective, then head inlandfrom the harbour, on one of the many marked walksacross the headland. They offer panoramic views ofthe coastline, and if you take your time to sit for awhile and admire the breathtaking views, it willchange before your eyes as the sun plays games withthe shadows on the rocks, and the reflections on thesea. The walks head to other small villages andhamlets, or along the coast to perfect coves andhidden beaches. It’s a remarkable feeling that youcan be an explorer, ‘discovering’ empty shores insuch a popular region.

Around the harbour is a good choice of restaurants,bars, and sublime ice cream parlours. Amongst the

best undoubtedly is Skippers, where you can sit atyour table on a floating pontoon being gently lappedby the perfectly clear waters of the marina, andsample not only superb seafood cuisine, but thatwhich is absolutely unique. There are, for example,particular prawns that can only to be found in a smallarea just along the coast. Choosing the sea bass wasa wise decision, as it arrived looking and tasting asclose to perfection as you’re likely to find. And ifyou’re feeling adventurous then give the octopus atry. It not only did wonderful things with the tastebuds, it also managed to give a feeling that you werenot just floating on the sea, but that you somehowhad a deeper bond with it.

We were staying nearby at the excellent Grand HotelMiramare, which is a perfect blend of old-worldelegance and service, combined with 21st-centuryefficiency and facilities. Balconied rooms, that boastglorious views across the bay, are well appointed,bright, and spacious. Pine trees and sunbeds laze inthe sun-soaked gardens, alongside a large, immacu-lately clean pool, whilst just across the road is asecluded private sandy beach.

Liguria Tourist Board - [email protected]



ITALIAN SPECIAL

ST MARGHERITA LIGURE

GRAND HOTEL MIRAMARE – Via Milite Ignoto, 3016038 Santa Margherita Ligure (GE)

Tel. +39 0185 287013 www.grandhotelmiramare.it


“The best bit about this trip was the sea. Everywhere itwas so clean and nice, and I wanted to swim all thetime.

The hotel was also good with a nice pool, and I reallyliked the breakfast. The meal at Skippers was likebeing on a boat, but was really cool. I didn’t like someof the seafood though.

There wasn’t a lot for children especially, but I stillliked it, and would like to go back. ”

Photos - Natalia Kolesnikova and Italian Tourist Office

It’s a town that is cosy, and addictive, but when youdo decide to tear yourself away to explore more ofLiguria, there is plenty of choice.

Genoa is a must for many visitors. Despite being thefifth largest city in Italy, the original heart of thismaritime legend can still be seen. The fascinatingCaruggi – a labyrinth of medieval alleyways – spreadout to the many notable ‘palazzi’.

Often housing museums, municipal buildings, orgalleries now, these 16th & 17th century architecturalmasterpieces were once the showpieces of the city’swealthy merchants.

Even more impressive are the monumental buildingssuch as the Cattedrale di San Lorenzo, which housesa fabulous treasury that is breathtaking to behold, andthe churches of San Donato, and Santa Maria di

Castello which lies across the coastal highway fromthe harbour.

There is a delightful vibrancy to Genoa, and even asense of unfounded danger amid the myriad of smallstreets near the port. In the more spacious areasaround the Palazzo Ducale, and the Piazza di Ferrari

– watched over by the famous statue of Garibaldi –tourists snap away, and wander with ice cream inhand gazing up at the impressive architecture.

Seemingly a world away, at the other end of theRiviera di Levante, is a stretch of coast known as TheCinque Terre, or ‘five lands’. It centres on the fivepicturesque villages of Monterosso, Vernazza,Corniglia, Maranola, and Riomaggiore - each onehuddled in a small cove, and surrounded by imposingcliffs. It’s the stuff of dreams for photographers,artists, and walkers.

Stunningly beautiful seascapes, backed by dramaticrocky cliffs, and picture-postcard harbours that haveprovided a living for local fishermen for centuries,mean that this area gets packed in peak summer.There are good walking trails all along this coast, andit’s often more rewarding, (not to mention less frus-trating), to park away from the towns and villages,and walk along the spectacular cliff-top paths toreach your destination.

It might be more energetic, but it’s just one more wayto get the best out of this endlessly endearing region.

RISTORANTE SKIPPER – Calata Porto, 6Santa Margherita Ligure (GE)

Tel. +39 0185/289950 - www.ristoranteskippersml.it



ITALIAN SPECIAL

TREVOR CLARINGBOLDTESTS A CENTURY OFFIRST CLASS SERVICE

Rimini may be the largest and best-known package tourdestination in Italy, but there is a very different side tothis former Roman favourite. Enjoying pride of place onthe glorious seafront is a hotel that has stood as a beaconof excellence for more than a hundred years.

The Grand Hotel Rimini is, without doubt, not only oneof Italy’s great hotels, but one of the World’s. It is thehaunt of celebrities, royalty, and the well-to-do fromaround the globe, with a guest book that reads like anedition of ‘Who’s Who’. So how well would it cope withan average family that wants to splash out on a luxurioustreat? We made a diversion on a recent Italian tour to findout.

Arriving after a long drive we were grateful for the privatecar park, just in front of the majestic main entrance. Fromthe moment you walk into the palatial marbled receptionarea, you can sense you are really stepping into a piece ofhistory. That’s not to say it feels old, however; quite thecontrary in fact. It actually felt surprisingly contemporary,with a relaxed atmosphere, and elegant décor.

We were greeted with a warm smile by the helpful recep-tion staff, who performed the check-in formalities quick-ly and efficiently – but without giving the appearance ofhurrying.

As anyone who travels regularly will know, there is thatdivine moment when you enter a hotel room for the firsttime. You form an instant impression, be it favourable ordisappointing, in much the same way as when you meeta new colleague, or a daughter’s new boyfriend. Youknow immediately if you’re going to get along. As for

this one, it was a hotel room that was going to be a friendfor life.

The tall windows and high ceilings give the spaciousrooms a bright, airy feel. Sumptuous, classically styledfurniture make relaxing here a pleasure, be it in the largearmchairs, or overlooking the gardens, beach, and Adri-atic, from the comfort of the private balcony. I sat for afew minutes, relishing the warm air as the sun wassetting, and pondered why the room seemed so perfect.After some consideration I decided it’s because it wasexactly how I would expect it to be, and there wasnothing at all to quibble about.

The facilities at the Grand Hotel are very good, consider-ing they have to fit into a century old building thatwasn’t designed with spas and wellness areas in mind.The Dolce Vita Spa may not be huge, but it is a topquality facility with cheerful, accommodating staff.There is a pretty little swimming pool, with water jetsand hydromassage, plus a shower, sauna, steam bath,relaxation area, and a fitness room with Technogymmachines. A range of beauty treatments are also availa-ble, including an invigorating hot stone massage. In thesummer months you also have the choice of treatmentsacross the road in another wellness area on the hotel’sbeautiful private beach. Amid the golden sand is a neatwooden structure with white muslin curtains, which



ITALIAN SPECIAL

guarantees maximum comfort and freshness during thetreatments.

One of the biggest tests for any hotel of this standard, ishow well they deal with young children. No matter howwell behaved, youngsters have different requirements,strange tastes, and can easily be upset by things. No-where is this more noticeable than in the restaurants. TheGrand Hotel Rimini has a good selection of restaurantsand bars, including ones overlooking the pool, and onthe private beach. A well-travelled, strong-willed 9-yearold was certainly the right person to see how well theycoped, but even I was impressed at how effortlessly thevarious staff made her feel every bit as important as theadults. Treated very much as a young person, not a child,she was never made to feel awkward if she didn’t under-stand something, and was always addressed directly. Asa parent, it can be annoying when some establishmentsinsist on asking the adults how a child (who is perfectlycapable of speaking for themselves) is feeling, or whatthey want – as though they are not there. So top markshere then.

The quality and variety of food is also outstanding.Everything prepared and cooked to perfection, with justas much thought going into the presentation. The rangeof dishes changes regularly, and we never found a time

when we didn’t have to struggle to choose – such wasthe amount of mouth-watering temptations.

Of course, a hotel can be excellent, but if the area it’s inoffers little, then it’s still not worth visiting. Riminicertainly has a tacky tourist side, and in the main sum-mer months the never-ending beach can be packed tobursting (away from the Grand Hotel’s private beach, ofcourse). But there is another side to Rimini, sadly oftenoverlooked by the beach towel brigade. A beautiful oldtown, centuries of history, excellent shopping, and su-perb local food and wine are all waiting to be experienced.

It was an important Roman city, and the impressivestone Bridge of Tiberius marked the start of one of themost famous of the Empire’s roads. The Via Emilia runsalmost completely straight, right across Italy to Milan.What is perhaps even more amazing is that the bridge isnot only still standing, but is still being used by modernday traffic almost 2000 years after it was built.

Mopeds buzz around the old streets seemingly indiffer-ent to traffic, pedestrians, and even other mopeds. Andthe chic designer goods in the elegant shop windowsprovide a modern edge to the historic streets. Elsewherein the old town are a wealth of medieval and renaissancebuildings, the best known of which is the MalatestianoTemple. Although it is unquestionably beautiful, it’s also



ITALIAN SPECIAL

the perfect reminder that not all is as perfect as it seems.For several centuries after it’s creation it was not formal-ly recognised as a cathedral by the Pope, because thelavish interior paid more homage to the Malatesta familythan it did to God. The exterior also has its flaws, withthe originally planned grand arched tower never com-pleted.

The Emilia Romagna district is renowned for its finewines and excellent cuisine, and Rimini has the best ofboth worlds. Its coastal location provides the excuse forexquisite seafood, whilst also being close enough to themountains to class the superb produce from there aslocal. One useful tip regarding many Italian restaurantsor bars, is don’t judge a book by the cover. Italians putfar more effort into what’s inside the building than theydo into its outward appearance. You can eat in restau-rants with fading paintwork and broken shutters on theoutside, that then produce the most amazing first classcuisine inside.

Many restaurants in Rimini – including our choice, theOsteria I Teatini - will also offer you locally producedwines such as the luscious white Trebianco, or the succu-lent red Sangiovese. The latter goes very well with anyof the traditional grilled meat dishes. After you’veworked your way through the menu, walk it of with agentle amble around narrow streets, that offer all mannerof interesting sights. The frequent open squares aregenerally surrounded by even more fascinating historicbuildings just crying out to be explored. Even at thequiet times of the year, the whole area has an atmosphereand vibrancy that just asks to be soaked up for as long aspossible.

Rimini is a great place to visit, whether for the beach orthe city. But it would be a shame to come so close, andnot experience all it has to offer. And if you’re lookingfor a touch of luxury, or just good old-fashioned topquality service, then would we recommend the GrandHotel Rimini for a family with children? Absolutely.

RIMINI

Grand Hotel Rimini is a property of Worldhotels.For more information, or to book, please visit -

http://www.worldhotels.com/grandrimini

Emilia Romagna Region Tourist Boardwww.visitemiliaromagna.com


“I really liked the room, as the bathroom was so shinyand the bed was really soft and comfortable.

The food was lovely, and I especially liked the chickenpasta. I didn’t like the mosaic in the spa, as it lookedlike a sinking ship, but I thought the pedal boats on thebeach with the curving slides were so cool.

The staff were all so friendly too, and really everythingwas perfect!”

Photos - Natalia Kolesnikova and Grand Hotel Rimini


http://www.worldhotels.com/grandrimini


Throughout the summer, Edinburgh beats to thesound of a seemingly endless stream of festivals andevents. The Science Festival, Royal Highland Show,Edinburgh Military Tattoo, and the world famousEdinburgh Festival all fill the ancient city to burstingpoint. Many visitors come as much for the colourfulatmosphere, as for the events themselves.

We, on the other hand, approached the city as itloomed out of the fog, on a wet weekend in October.As we neared the centre, the lines of tall stone frontedbuildings cast even darker shadows on the glisteningstreets, whilst at the same time creating an impres-sion that this was a place of power. First sight of thecastle, proudly dominating the rocky high ground,further underlined the feeling that it was not a city tobe messed with.

To have accommodation right in the heart of th cityis wonderful, except when you are trying to park. Wewere fortunate to stumble across a space just beingvacated, not too far from our destination. The silverlining, under some very dark clouds, was a first walkalong the famous Royal Mile.

It was dusk, and there was a chilly breeze mixed withthe annoying drizzle. Anywhere else this would haveoffered a depressing start a visit, and yet somehowhere it didn’t matter. The place was alive, vibrant,and buzzing to the sound of street entertainers, tourguides, and people who seemed quite content tostand chatting – oblivious to the rain, but soaking upthe magnificence of their surroundings instead.

We’d been here less than half an hour, and yet we feltat home, welcome, and completely at ease. There arenot many capital cities that can say that.

Passing the lines of shops selling whisky, kilts, andjust about anything you can emblazon with the

‘Scotland’ logo, we arrived at our accommodationalmost downhearted that our first perambulation hadended. We were keen to abandon our baggage,change into some drier clothes, and get back out –almost as if we were scared it would all be gone if wedidn’t hurry.

The Fraser Suites are an impressive selection ofapartments, housed in a majestic period building justoff the Royal Mile, close to St Giles Cathedral.

In contrast to the building, the suites are very modern,extremely stylish, & ooze quality. They’re spacious,well equipped, and in our case offered a view of thecastle from the bedroom window. The bathroom hasa designer feel, with hidden lights creating an air ofluxury to match the L’Occitane toiletries. When youcheck it against the cost of quality hotels in the area,the Fraser Suites offer excellent value for such a highlevel of accommodation, and in the perfect location.

As we headed back to the streets, amid the everincreasing crowds, there seemed to be an invisibleforce that drew you towards the castle. As the RoyalMile turns from the High Street into the Lawnmarket,and then finally into Castle Hill, it narrows andsteepens. Small alleyways head off in all directions,some enticing, and some very much not. As we passthe Scottish Whisky Experience the castle edges intoview, like a giant barrier across the top of the hill.The road opens to the broad Castle Esplanade, full ofrevellers just milling about for no apparent reasonother than to be there. A sense of expectation fills theair, a feeling that you’re about to experience some-thing great. But despite lingering for quite a while,



enjoying the panoramic views over the lower parts ofthe city, nothing actually happened. Eventually weresigned ourselves to simply being pleased to havereach such a momentous summit, and started slowlyback down the hill. There were countless groups ofpeople, all with different agenda’s. We witnessedghoulishly costumed guides leading a ghost tour, agroup with a torchlight procession (although noneseemed to know exactly what it was for), and allmanner of others just out for a good night’s partying.

After such an intense introduction to the city, I wasworried the next morning may prove an anti-climax.It didn’t, and after a pleasant breakfast at the RucolaRestaurant, next to the Fraser Suites, we headed ontofreshly cleaned streets as the cathedral bells struck9am. We knew that a prompt start and a wellplanned timetable would be essential if we were tomake the most of our limited time here. As westrolled down the Royal Mile, it was interesting howdifferent it looked by day. The fine architecturaldetails were far more prominent, for example, andthe individuality of each building became more ap-parent.

We were thankful of the break in the weather, as ourfirst destination was the magnificent baroque Palaceof Holyroodhouse, at the far end of the Royal Mile.The Royal Apartments have borne witness to manychapters of Scotland’s history, most notably thoseconnected with Mary Queen of Scots. Later is wasassociated with Bonnie Prince Charlie, serving as hisheadquarters for a while during the 1745 uprising,and now is the Queen’s official residence in Scotland.

As you would expect, a tour will offer you glimpsesinto the lives and treasures of many of Scotland’smonarchs, and the famed Great Gallery even housesportraits of the nation’s legendary kings alongsidethose who actually did exist. In the summer monthsthe gardens can also be visited, but for us that was apleasure we had to forego.

Our walk back up the hill was broken by a brief stopat the Scottish Storytelling Centre in the John KnoxHouse. This picturesque historic building offers aninsight into the association between John Knox andMary Queen of Scots, whilst also featuring livestorytelling for children, literature, and theatreevents. It makes a useful stop if, like us, you haveyoungsters who love to hear a well-told tale.

Elsewhere, visitors with children can also enjoy theMuseum of Childhood, and the Edinburgh Zoo –home to more than 1000 rare and beautiful animals.

We, however, were heading to the area they call theGrassmarket. Set in the heart of the Old Town, it’sone of the most eclectic, compelling, and lively areasof the city. In the past, it was home to merchants,body snatchers, & Edinburgh’s gallows. Thankfully,things have picked up a little, and now it’s a thrivingcommunity of appealing small shops, restaurants, &galleries. The colourful, curving slope of VictoriaStreet is much photographed, and the hotch-potch ofindependent shops demand exploration. With somany pleasant cafes, and a great choice of live musicvenues, it’s a cultural heaven that can quickly soakup your time. It seemed we had only recently heardthe bells at 9 this morning, and yet was already darkand time to head back to our apartment.

Certainly one of the biggest advantages of staying inthe city centre, is that there is so much to see within

FRASER SUITES EDINBURGH12 - 26 St Giles Street, Edinburgh EH1 1PT

Tel. 0131 221 7200http://edinburgh.frasershospitality.com



The impressions of our 9-year oldJunior Reporter

“I really liked the Fraser Suites Apartments, especiallythe big screen TV’s in each room, and the prettybathroom.

The Storytelling Centre was nice, and I’d have liked tohave stayed for longer there.

The castle was kind of dark and scary, but the CrownJewels were amazing. I got told off for trying to take aphoto of them because apparently its not allowed!”

walking distance, you have no need to waste time ontravelling. Even so, Edinburgh still saps your timeamazingly quickly.

The next morning was devoted to what must surelybe the highlight of every visitor’s time here. As youenter the main gate of Edinburgh’s mighty castle,you’re confronted by a massive rock outcrop, onwhich the castle is perched. Walking up the steepincline, through the second gate, you quickly realisewhat a truly dominant position it occupies. The wallscurve around in front of you, marking the edge of thehigh ground. The panoramic views across the city,and on to the sea, would have given it’s defenders atremendous advantage, and trying to attack it wouldhave been foolhardy in the extreme.

The main castle buildings are higher still, up moresteep slopes, or a perilous stairway. Climbing it willreward you handsomely, however, as it’s here thatyou can witness Scotland’s most prized possessions.

The Scottish Crown Jewels are amongst the oldest inEurope, and known correctly as ‘The Honours ofScotland’. The intricate workmanship combinedwith the exquisite design, and shimmering gold andjewels, make them a truly breathtaking sight. Youcan also see the ancient coronation seat known as theStone of Destiny, which only returned to Scotland in1996, after being taken to London 700 years earlierby the invading English Army.

And if you’re thinking there is nothing here for theEnglish, then you can see the place where the futureKing James I of England (and King James VI ofScotland, of course) was born.

We all enjoyed our visit to Edinburgh Castle, andwere sad that our short break to this city had come toan end. The castle certainly lived up to its reputationas one of the most impressive in Europe, althoughperhaps that’s no surprise considering Edinburghitself has to be one of the most impressive capitals.

Photos - Natalia Kolesnikovaand Visit Scotland



Visitors are only just returning to Cayman Brac afterhurricane Paloma hit in 2008. But in many ways,Paloma has helped preserve the Brac’s unspoilt,rugged charm, leaving it one of the quirkiest andleast developed islands in the Caribbean.

Cayman Brac is a quiet, laid back place consisting offamilies that mostly stem from the few core settlersof the 1850's. There are only two hotels and 15restaurants and everything moves along slowly on

"island time". Most day’s fisherman still congregateon the dock to quietly play dominoes, whilst waitingfor the groceries to be shipped in.

The 90 mile flight to from Grand Cayman on a small20 seater plane takes about 50 minutes, with a stopoff at Little Cayman. A short drive takes us to theCayman Brac Reef resort. ( www.bracreef.com) withtheir onsite dive operators, Reef Divers.

After Paloma, the resort underwent a multi milliondollar rebuild and is now the only dive resort on theisland. The Brac’s dive sights haven’t had muchattention lately. For Brackers’, like Tenson Scott,this is a good thing. “We don’t want any more crazyAmerican women” he tells me. (Although he is nowvery good friends with that same ‘crazy Americanwoman.’) The 70 year old former fisherman ownsthe small cottage shop NIMS Things (Native IslandMade.) in Spot Bay.

The Brac has fewer sandy beaches than its sisters,Grand Cayman and Little Cayman, but it has plentyof iron shore. And Tenson ventures down to thebeach most days to ply Chiton off the ironshore bay.

These prehistoric-looking slugs in hard shells areplastered all over the rocks. “we call them sea beef”says Tenson. The Chiton, as well as Caymanniteshells and rocks are used to make quirky pieces ofjewellery to sell in the shop. Tenson is quite astoryteller, so you might be wise to form an exitstrategy before you go in. He talks about fishing,dogs, and that he definitely doesn’t want many moretourists, despite relying on them for business.

Because of its torpedo like shape the Brac has twoseparate diving environments; the north and south.There are about 45 moored dive sites, and most arejust minutes away from the beach on the south westshore. Here is better for marine life and big walls,

QuirkyCaymanBrac

Katy Dartford tastes thehigh-life in the Southern Caribbean



such as Anchor Wall, with its deep swim-throughsand crevices and an old Anchor wedged into the wall.The north east sites, where the wreck of the MV CaptTibbets is found, have longer boat rides and is bestfor deep dives and wrecks.

The Tibbett is a 100 meter-long Russian missilefrigate. Underwater its metal has been transformed;covered in marine life, red and purple sponges, fatwhite tunicates and bulbous clumps of hard red andyellow coral. Tiny creatures make their home on thisartificial reef that was brought to Cayman Brac in1996 from Cuba to finish its days as a diving attrac-tion and the only Russian warship that can be divedin the western hemisphere.

Then there is also the Lost City of Atlantis. By thebeach at a dive site called Radar Reef on the northshore, I spot large terracotta coloured sculptures, likeRussian matryoshka dolls. They are soon to join over300,000 lbs of sculptures to become part of the large,underwater, multi-piece creation by a local artist,simply known as “Foots”.

I’m taken on a tour of the island by a local guideKeino. He tells me that the south side has only beendeveloped in the last 30 years as Brackians didn’tbelieve it was safe from hurricanes. ‘I hope I neverhave to live through that again.' says Keino. He tellsme that when Paloma struck, his wife didn’t want toleave the house “but she will do if it ever happensagain.' He says that they had to smash the windowsof their home to ease some of the pressure caused bythe winds. ‘Next time – and pray to God there isn't anext time – but we will go to a proper shelter, or acave.’

And Cayman Brac is full of caves. David takes me tothe Bluff, to see them. The Bluff is a large limestonewedge-shaped ridge that runs along the spine of the14-mile long island. It’s nearly 30 million years oldand starts at sea level in the west end, reaching aheight of around 40 meters in the east, the highestpoint in the Cayman Islands.

There are plenty of opportunities for hiking andnature walks on the Bluff. Well marked trails lead toa variety of dramatic caves such as Rebecca's Cave,Peter's Cave and Skull Cave, and easy to follownature trails lead to the 180 Parrot Reserve. Anotherof the Bluffs’ secret treasures is its rock climbing.It’s never really been promoted officially, as likefree-diving; the government are worried that some-thing could go wrong. But lots of climbers go thereunder their own steam and the infrastructure is quitesimple. Many of the climbers who set up routes onthe Bluff have homes on the island and visit severaltimes a year.

Bluff View House is a small guest cottage for climb-ers on the south east coast, and has route maps andropes you can borrow.The best time to visit Cayman Brac is from Januarythrough to March when the water is still warmenough to dive and it is mostly dry. (the rainy seasonis in the summer.)



ToursFree nature tours are offered through District Admin-istration's Marketing and Promotions Unitat [email protected].

Eating and DrinkingFor something a upmarket, try The Alexander Hotel.Opened in 2009 it strikes a real contrast to the rest ofthe island’s quirky eating establishments. Its pool-side restaurant Casa Braca focuses on Caribbeancuisine. www.alexanderbrac.com

Also try La Esperanza, mid way along the northshore at The Creek. It offers an interesting mix ofAmerican, Caribbean, and Seafood, plus a bar withentertainment, a grocery, car rental, boat dock, 4apartments and 2 rental homes. It also featured as

‘the Sand Bar’ in the 2010 film Cayman West, thestory of a fading Hollywood underwater action starwhose life takes on new meaning when he's forced tospend time on Cayman Brac amid the local divecommunity.

AccommodationThe Alexander Hotel has great views of the Caymanshores, and is just 2 minutes walk from the beach.It’s built by a salt water pond, a nature reserve whereyou can go bird watching for the endangered WestIndian Whistling Duck & many other migratorybirds.

For intimate bed and breakfast accommodation, tryWalton's Mango Manor Bed & Breakfast at StakeBay. Nestled amongst the fruit trees and ponds, italso offers two separate villas and a seaside gazebowith hammocks swinging between coconut trees.www.waltonsmangomanor.com



After a swift and pleasant crossing from Dover on one ofP&O Ferries newest ships, and a half hour drive fromCalais, we easily found our way to Nausicaa’s largeunderground car park. For those not aware, Nausicaa isthe National Sea Life Centre of France, and in the twentyyears since it opened has grown to become one of the topten attractions in the country.

Indeed, over half a million visitors each year come tovisit the 50 aquariums, 35,000 fish, and 1000 marinecreatures. As our young daughter is always captivated byher grandfather’s fish tank, it seemed like a good choicefor our day trip across the Channel.

Arrival and purchasing the tickets was easy, with friendly,English speaking staff, and we were impressed to begiven not just the map of the attraction, but also anadditional one which shows all the lifts and easy accesspoints to make life easier as we had a pushchair. Nicetouch.

And there were many more nice touches as our dayprogressed. Nausicaa certainly came across as some-where that had been well planned, and with significantattention to detail. For example, unlike a number of otherattractions in France that we’ve visited, the informationdisplays were all in both English and French, which wasvery welcome.

The displays are equally impressive, particularly the vastshark tank. Seeing these creatures from an underwaterperspective, or watching the sea-lions swim all aroundyou, will rate as a memorable experience for any visitor.

The appeal of a short break in northern France is easy tosee. As well as the in-bred tradition of stocking up onyour food and wine, it’s a chance to sample the delightsof the French culture, cuisine, and style.

But, for a little more of that ‘je ne sais quoi’, try headinghalf an hour or so south of the main Channel ports, tosample to the delights of the Opal Coast. The prettyseaside resort of Le Touquet may have faded a little sinceit’s pre-war heyday, but it’s still a pleasant place to spendsome time.

In it’s prime, Le Touquet was a resort to rival those onthe Cote d’Azur. A meander around the outskirts willreveal the many lavish villas secreted in large gardensbehind the screens of pine trees. It still retains that air ofgracefulness and tranquillity, despite the influx of carsand coaches whenever the sun comes out. Nestling on theestuary of La Canche River, though, it has ample beachand amenities for all.

Without doubt, the long sandy the shoreline is the town’sprime attraction, stretching from the sailing club on theriver estuary, the full length of the town, and off into thedistance towards Stella Plage, and Berck sur Mer. In thecentre is the impressive Aqualud swimming complex,with its huge water slides and tropical atmosphere. Allthe family will enjoy it here, and when you’ve worked upan appetite, the panoramic Le Nemo restaurant is part ofthe same establishment.

Away from the seafront, Le Touquet’s main shoppingstreets manage a quaint appeal that belies their fairly

Day trips across the Channel remain as popular today as always, but nowadays many travellersare seeking more than just a few hours shopping & wandering in Calais. Our reporters took theshort ferry trip, and visited two of the ‘in’ places for families, within an hours drive of the port.



There are also smaller, more colourful tropical displays,and wherever you go there is a good deal of knowledgeto be gained for young & old from the various displays.

If you prefer a more hands-on approach, then you’llenjoy the Touch and Feel tank, where you can experiencerunning your hand across a stingray, or stroking the otherfish. Whatever your own personal interest, there is sureto be something here to appeal, since just about everyaspect of the world’s seas and oceans are covered some-where. Even the local Channel coast gets a look in.

The futuristic feel of the main areas also reminds guestshow the centre takes a keen and responsible attitude tothe future. Endangered species are highlighted, with theinformation boards spelling out the message of how weneed to take care of them, and of the planet as a whole.There is even a valuable insight into survival of thefishing industry, and the efficient use of water energy.

Nausicaa is also a successful fish-breeding establishment,and has a marine hospital to take care of sick creatures.

For the guests, facilities include three main restaurants,photographers to entice you in to taking away a pictureof those memorable moments, and of course there’s theobligatory gift shop.

One of those undoubted highlights is also one of the lastparts of your nautical journey around the exhibits. TheSubmerged Forest is a marvellous depiction of a SouthAmerican rain forest that has been submerged in a flood,and where nature has strangely adapted to the new sur-roundings. It’s a great way to finish a superb day trip.

Nausicaa is open all year round, except for Christmas,New Year, and a short maintenance period in January.We would suggest you allow at least 3 – 4 hours for yourvisit, and it’s proximity to the Channel Ports means itsperfectly feasible to make a diversion next time you arecrossing to France. It will be well worth it.

modern style. Dozens of small independent shops beg forexploration, and amid the obligatory tourist souvenirs aresome excellent offerings of local cheese, pottery, andjewellery. The town still sees itself as a cut above thosenearby, and the designer boutiques are surpassed only bythe enticing local speciality of hand made chocolates.The purpose built market place is also worth seeking out,with fresh local produce and crafts at bargain prices inthe semi-circular mock-medieval gatehouse.

The bargain prices don’t, unfortunately, extend to theeating-houses of Le Touquet. Menu’s are generally a bitabove average, but then, to be fair, so is the quality of thecuisine. Sit on the terrace of the very agreeable Aubergede la Dune aux Loups and sample the excellent seafoodmenu, with a glass of typically French wine. This is whata short break in France is all about.

For the more energetic there is a large, well equipped,sports centre on the edge of town, with no less than 33tennis courts and another large swimming pool. There isalso a first class equestrian centre next to the airport. Golfand cycle hire are well catered for, and during the sum-mer months there are plenty of water-based activities tohelp ease the Euros from your wallet. On the beach thereare trampolines for the children, and carriage rides for all.The area has also become a haven for sand yachtingenthusiasts.

However you plan your stay, you’ll be surprised just howmuch a short break in this area can offer.

www.nausicaa.co.uk



In the next issue of

Part Two of our Italian Feast We take time to explore Lake Garda, visit a brand new hotel complex on the Puglian Coast, Stunning Sardinia, and enjoy a day wandering around the Eternal City - Rome.

Focus on France Emma Plaskett visits the little known Limousin Region, and Trevor Claringbold relaxes in the Marne Valley, east of Paris.

Cool Cayman Cuisine Katy Dartford continues her meander around the Caribbean, sampling the food and drink of the Cayman Islands.

Plus... Off the beaten track in Central Africa, Getting Active in Southern Finland, and an Alpine Adventure in Austria


For some inexplicable reason, the area just to the eastof Paris is largely overlooked by British tourists. Thecountryside just to the west – especially the Loirevalley, is crowded to the point of bursting eachsummer. Yet the only time the area centred on theupper Seine valley sees many visitors from the UKis when they pass through, skirting Paris on theirway further south.

However, in many ways – for us as tourists – that canbe a blessing. It means that the region is a delight toexplore, with a relaxed and unhurried feel – just likethe Seine itself.

If you glance back into the area’s history, though,things were quite different. The English didn’t justcome here in large numbers, they actually occupiedsome districts for lengthy periods during the 100Years War, claiming it as English soil. Take theimpressive medieval fortified town of Provins,which is a good example.

With a history stretching back over a thousand years,Provins is an intriguing and fascinating place. In itsheyday, during the 12th and 13th centuries, it was animportant European trading centre. It’s strategic loca-tion at the confluence of no less than nine majorroads gave rise to the Counts of Champagne holdingtwice yearly ‘fairs’ here, which drew merchants from

across the continent. Indeed, for several centuriesProvins had such standing that it even minted its owncoin, which was recognised and accepted throughoutmedieval Europe.

Today, visitors can find much to remind them ofthese past glories, not least being the mighty citywalls. This mammoth structure is still in excellentcondition, and it’s easy to imagine just how wellprotected the inhabitants and traders must have feltin times of trouble. Wandering the peaceful labyrinthof ancient streets of the hilltop old town, it’s difficultnot to lose your bearings. However, most roadseventually lead to the large, serene town square, withthe old well, and half-timbered buildings creating theperfect atmosphere. This is exactly how you imaginehistoric, rural France to be. Nearby is the dominantCaesar’s Tower; a vast, complex, and highly visibletestament to power and wealth held by the Counts ofChampagne in the Middle Ages.

Elsewhere, the ancient Tithe Barn houses a detailedrecreation of its time as the indoor market place,using waxwork recreations of the many differentmerchants and their trades. Below the cobbled streetsthere is also something of a honeycomb, as morethan 100 tunnels have been preserved for a variety ofuses. These were originally excavated to mine themuch sought after ‘Fullers Earth’, but enterprising



townsfolk then made use of them as storage areas,cool rooms, secret hideaways, and a mixture of otherroles. A less authentic, but more lively attraction isthe ‘Eagles of the Ramparts’ medieval show. This isone of a number of shows that make use of thepurpose built auditorium tucked just inside the citywall. Eagles, hawks, vultures and buzzards areamongst the birds of prey that sweep just millimetresabove the heads of an enthralled audience, whilecostumed performers re-enact scenes on horseback,camels, and up on the ramparts. It’s highly theatrical,but the fast pace and constantly swooping large birdsmake it absolutely captivating.

If you really want to sample what it might have beenlike to stay here in centuries past, treat yourself to anight or two at the magnificent Demeure des VieuxBains. This monumental stone building dates fromthe 12th century, when it began life as the bath housefor the town. The large vaulted room is the only oneof its type in France, and later additions saw a morestately architecture from the 15th and 16th centuries.Relaxing in the sumptuous 18th century suites, withtheir Italian furnishings, makes you feel like royalty.

The real royalty, and their post-revolution counter-parts, had a somewhat larger abode in which to enjoytheir lavish lifestyle. Some 30 miles to the west liesthe one of the most important and best known cha-teaus in all of France; Fontainebleau.

It’s impossible not to be awestruck by this sprawlingroyal palace. The facts and figures – over 1,500rooms, 116 hectares of gardens, a canal that’s over akilometre long, & no less than 34 sovereigns havingstepped across the threshold – tell only part of thestory. Each autumn the Royal Court would come toFontainebleau for the hunting season. The vast forest,much of which remains today, was considered anexcellent venue for such regal jollities. The chateaugrew with each generation, and the interior was

adorned with the riches and grandeur that befitted theoccupant’s high status.

Today, tourists wander with jaws dropped amid thesplendour, through long, breathtaking galleries, huge,luxurious bedrooms, and the prestigious ballroom.See the desk where Napoleon sat, and the throneroom where the French kings had audiences with therich and famous of their day. It’s a truly awesomestructure, entwined eternally in the nations history,and one not to be missed on any visit to the region.

Unlike many such chateau’s, it is also convenientlyplaced close to the centre of the city. This means it isnot only easy to get to if you happen to be staying inFontainebleau, but also helps you enjoy the delightsthat the rest of this fine city has to offer. The busypedestrianised area is full of enticing shops, with thearoma of cheese and wine hanging tantalisingly inthe air. This is a town that is known for its goodliving, and as you would expect there are also a fairsection of designer shops, and upmarket boutiques.Fontainebleau is chic, stylish, but still relaxing andenjoyable.

If you’re looking for the perfect place to stay, thepeaceful, refined, Aigle Noir Hotel, just opposite thechateau, is an ideal choice. Built as a private mansionin the 17th Century, it manages to create an atmos-phere that is both select and restful, with all roomshaving their own unique personality. The level andattention to detail is impressive; from the selection ofinternational sockets to suit all the main internationalplugs, to the television screens that ‘appear’ from themirrored glass.

Of course, if you prefer more rural surroundings, thisis a beautiful area to explore. The smaller towns andvillages along the Seine are idyllic, and certainlyworthy of some time spent just ambling along theriverside, or amongst the narrow streets. Artists of allkinds come here to paint, draw, write music and



poetry, or just be inspired. In Samois-sur-Seine is thesmall island where gypsy guitarist Django Reinhardtcame to write music, and where his fans still meetannually in June for a jazz festival. Life is unhurriedhere, and the music of the riverside is a relaxingsymphony of birdsong, gently rustling leaves, andthe lapping water behind the occasional pleasureboat. The forest itself also has much to offer, frompleasant walks to long hikes, & even more energeticpursuits such as rock climbing and mountain biking.

In the time honoured tradition of saving the best untillast, however, there is one final experience not to bemissed in this land of all things splendid.

The Chateau of Vaux le Vicomte may be marginallysmaller than that of Fontainebleau, but it is certainly

no less impressive. Indeed, it is said that it was LouisXIV’s extreme jealousy over his Lord HighTreasurer’s owning of Vaux, that inspired him tobuild Versailles. It is still regarded by many to be themost beautiful chateau in France, and lays claim to



SEINE ET MARNEREGION

Useful Contacts

Seine-et-Marne Tourism – www.tourisme77.co.uk

Demeure des Vieux Bains - Excellent accomodationin a llisted 12th & 16th century building in Provins.www.demeure-des-vieux-bains.com

Hostellerie Aux Vieux Remparts – Elegant mid-rangehotel in Provins. www.auxvieuxremparts.com

Aigle Noir Hotel – Beautiful period hotel in the heartof Fontainebleau, near the chateau.www.hotelaiglenoir.fr

Chateau de Fontainebleau -http://www.musee-chateau-fontainebleau.fr/

Chateau of Vaux le Vicomte -www.vaux-le-vicomte.com

being the largest private house in the country. Insideit is regal and ostentatious, but still retains a sereneelegance. Twenty first century technology helpsbring it to life, with holographic figures telling thestory of the chateau, re-enacting scenes, & enjoyingthe daily life both above and below stairs.

Outside the gardens are every bit as magnificent asthe building, with large formal designs interspersedwith fountains and topiary.

During the summer months, visitors can enjoy acandlelit supper to beat all others, as around 2000candles are lit throughout the gardens and the mainfaçade just as dusk falls. The effect is almost magical.The restaurant on the terrace not only provides theperfect viewing platform, but also boasts excellentcuisine.

The Seine et Marne region has many superb placesto visit, with good food, and lovely people. As I sitenjoying a glass of wine after a delightful meal onthe terrace at Vaux le Vicomte, the candles twinklingacross the gardens to the illuminated chateau behind,it’s easy to see why this really is a land fit for a king.



pro traveller magazine - issue 50

Documents

travel radio streaming

travel agencies

experienced travel writers

clockfor travel enthusiasts

globetrotter radio

hotel libertas

onceglamorous hotel

glorious countryside