sajn july 2015

south african jewellery news

The industry's only trade journal

july

201

5

Your guide to gemstone

deposits of the world

South African

economy continues to punch above

its weight

Watch industry enthusiastic

about this year’s Jewellex Africa

R36.00 (incl VAT)

Purveyors of precious metal and fine jewellery.

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2015

The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2015. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

Official Journal of the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa. Website: www.jewellery.org.za

Banking Details: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC Bank: Standard Bank, Sandton, South Africa Branch Code: 01-92-05 Current Account Number: 4209 6822 9

Editor: Adri Viviers

Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805

E-mail: [email protected]

Watch Editor: Alice Weil

Tel: +27 (0)11 880-1680 Cell: 083-266-9182


Advertising Sales: Linda Stock

Cell: 081-065-7322


Advertising Sales Representative (India):

Bhupal Potdar

Cell: 91-982-115-1035

Email: [email protected]

Advertising Sales Representative (Hong Kong):

Maud Errera


Designer: Joanne Brook

Copy Editor: Anne Phillips

Subscriptions & Accounts: Thuli Majola

Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Fax: +27 (0)11 783-2677


Distribution: Ruth Dlamini and

Direct Marketing Solution

SA Jewellery News is published by:

Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC,

PO Box 651793, Benmore, 2010,

Johannesburg, South Africa.

27 Panners Lane, Riverclub, Sandton, South Africa.

Website: www.isikhova.co.za

Chief Executive Officer: Andrew Meyer


Chief Financial Officer: Imraan Mahomed


Printing: Colors

14. USEFUL INFORMATIONYour guide to gemstone deposits of the world

22. JEWELLERY AFRICA 2015Watch industry enthusiastic about this year’s show

18. MARKET CONDITIONSSouth African economy continues to punch above its weight

16. BRAND HISTORYThe importance of being Astron

In 2014, Bell & Ross presents the BR 03-94 CARBON ORANGE, designed especially for

professionals working under extreme conditions who require optimum legibility in all

circumstances. As in aircrafts' cockpit instruments, and to facilitate the reading of short

periods of time, a touch of orange contrasts with the matte black to highlight all the

indications relating to the chronograph function.

On the coverSOUTH AFRICAN JEWELLERY NEWS

The industry's only trade journal

JULY

201

5

Your guide to gemstone

deposits of the world

South African

economy continues to punch above

its weight

Watch industry enthusiastic

about this year’s Jewellex Africa

R36.00 (incl VAT)

c ntents

28. LITTLE GEMSThe meticulous work of JAR

24. BRAND MANAGEMENT• Inspiredbyplantstructures

• Loris&LorisParisunveilsJoanne, Ginza and Claire

• Trendytosophisticatedfrom PierreLannier

• SaintHonorécelebratesParis

• Inspiredbytheportholeson transatlantic yachts

• TheMarieAntoinettecollection

8. NEWS• JewelleryCouncilCollectionAwards Jewellery Design Competition

• AWDCandDiamondAdministration ofChinasignMemorandum of Understanding

• Christie’sleadsauctionmarket inHongKongwithsalesof US$417,6 million

• CIBJOPresidentlecturesbusiness school graduate students about corporate social responsibility in the jewellery sector

• InternationalColoredGemstone Association elects new Board of Directors

tel: +27 11 334 3400

fax: +27 11 334 3407

e-mail: [email protected]

website: www.capestardiamonds.com

address: SA Jewellery Centre, 4th Floor, Suite 426, 225 Main Street,

Johannesburg, South Africa

brilliance of nature

NEWS

CATEGORISING 3D pRINTING FOR JEWELLERY SECTOR3D printing has revolutionised the jewellery

industry in the past decade. Its speed and pro-

ductivity have improved significantly

and it really does allow jewellers to

take on many more projects.

“3D printers suitable for print-

ing in the jewellery industry can be

loosely categorised as follows: print-

ers using a jetting process to build

the model and printers using a pho-

tocured polymer resin to create the

models,” explains Nic Klopper, Com-

mercialMDofRapid3DandBuildVolume,

a company which supplies 3D printers, CAD

software and runs a 3D print bureau service for

various industries. Rapid 3D supplies machines

ranging from studio machines to high-volume

production machines capable of running hun-

dreds of pieces in a single build.

Printers based on jetting technology

typically print using two wax-based

materials, one for the model and

another for the support structures.

The support structures are then

removed by dissolving them in a

heated liquid. Jetting technology

can be slow if using a vector-based

approach and while the quality of models

is typically good, they tend to be very fragile

and need to be handled carefully. “Castability

is generally good. Running costs on this tech-

nologytendtobehigh,”addsKlopper.

Printers using resinmaterials use the same

material for both model and supports, which are

cutawayafterprinting.Post-processingisquick

and easy, with models being washed in a solvent

after printing and then put into a light box for

additionalcuring,priortocasting.Modelsrequire

higher burnout temperatures and longer cycles.

“Generally, these printers are substantially faster

than those using jetted material and are capable

of high production volumes. In addition, they

can print in multiple materials, including those

suited to printing mould masters, as well as

stoneinplacecastings,”saysKlopper.

The International Colored Gemstone Associa-

tion (ICA) has released the names of its Board

of Directors following the organisation’s board

meeting at the conclusion of the 2015 Con-

gress. ICA President Benjamin Hackman was

re-elected for a second two-year term, while

theICA’stwoVice-presidentsareDamienCody

and Santpal Sinchawala.

Newly elected to the board are Gabriel An-

garita from Colombia, Stephan Reif from Austria,

AliceMuthamafromKenya,WarrenBoydfrom

Canada, Jeffrey Bilgore from the USA, Suttipong

Dramrongsakul from Thailand, Capt Ramji Shar-

maandMazaruMizumurafromJapan.

Directors continuing their terms are Ehud

Harel from Israel, Duncan McLauchlan from

theUK,XianjinYu fromChina,BruceBridges

from the USA, Philippe Scordia from France,

Nirmal Kumar Bardiya from India, Vijay Kedia

from India, Shirley Zhang from Hong Kong,

INTERNATIONAL COLORED GEMSTONE ASSOCIATION ELECTS NEW BOARD RakeshJainfromHongKong,MarceloRibeiro

Fernandes from Brazil, Pavel Sokolov from

Russia and Gamini Zoysa from Sri Lanka.

Retained on the board as immediate Past

President is Wilson Yuen from China, while

specialadvisorsareJeanClaudeMichelou,di-

recting ICA communications and ambassadors,

Clement Sabbagh, directing the ICA Congress

andNoburyukiHoriuchi,overseeingimplemen-

tation of the ICA’s disclosure codes.

The Antwerp World Diamond Centre (AWDC)

and the Diamond Administration of China (DAC)

havesignedaMemorandumofUnderstanding

(MOU) which aims to reinforce co-operation

between the two diamond centres.

TheMOUwassignedduringtheAntwerp-

ShanghaiInvestmentForumwhichtookplace

in Antwerp from 3-4 June, attended by an eco-

nomic and political delegation led by Shanghai

PartySecretaryandformerMayorofShanghai

Han Zheng. The Investment Forum aimed to

follow up on the official visit to Shanghai by

AntwerpMayorBartDeWever, in collabora-

tionwiththePortofAntwerpandtheAWDC,

in October last year.

The wide-ranging agreement will oversee

the bilateral exchange of information about

market and industry trends, jointly promoting

and supporting Belgian and Chinese diamond

trade and investments, as well as developing

marketing initiatives to drive the sale of

diamonds and diamond jewellery. Both the

AWDC and the DAC will specifically support

HRDAntwerp’sactivitiesinChina.

AWD AND DAC SIGN MOU

Transform the way you make jewellery

Isik

hova

Pub

lishi

ng &

Com

mun

icat

ions

©

Tel: 010 594 4644 / 0861 000 185 • E-mail: [email protected] • Website: www.buildvolume.co.za


Cape Watch Tools & Jewellery Supplies (Cape

Watch) has recently welcomed Rochelle Lyle

to the company. Lyle brings with her extensive

knowledge and experience in the diamond-

cutting and polishing industry. “Rochelle’s stren-

gths are undoubtedly technical advisory capac-

ity and sales and we’re all very excited to wel-

comeher to the team,”saysTennilleHogeof

Cape Watch.

Cape Watch’s history dates back to 1962,

when it was a wholesaler of tooling and parts

to the watch industry, but adapted quickly to

the cyclical downside in the late ’70s, when the

Japanese quartz movement superseded me-

chanical watch servicing and parts replacement

altogether. Traction was gained in the emerg-

ing jewellery and diamond industry by 1989.

Today,RodgerBrowneandHogearepartnered

together, having identified technology as in-

strumental to productivity and therefore profit-

ability.“Lampert’slatestofferinginthePuk4.1

is selling well and, alongside it, abrasives and

polishing compounds imported from Japan.

Lapping and polishing machinery are new ar-

rivals, with engraving, setting and cutting ma-

chines all now being offered to the watchmak-

er, jeweller, diamond dealer and hobbyist,” says

Hoge. Cape Watch has also recently secured

CApE WATCH TOOLS & JEWELLERY SUppLIES WELCOMES ROCHELLE LYLE

distributorship for brands such as Syenset, SL

(engraving systems), Alfa Mirage, Japanese

Diamond (abrasive and polishing products) and

Jool Tool (polishing and sharpening systems).

“We have a website [www.capewatch.co.za]

and encourage clients to visit it – prices are

current and convenience is our main objective.

We use only reliable couriers that offer door-

to-door deliveries. Careful consideration was

applied to layout, accurate imaging and, most

importantly, keeping the website fresh with our

companyFacebookcommunityposts,ahome

page blog spot and new product listings,”

explainsHoge.

The company also produces monthly news-

letters containing information about its latest

releases, trade news and product discounts. It

has a showroom at 33 Church St in Cape Town

and is open on the last Saturday of each month.

“Social responsibility is a way of life. It should

never be considered a strategic alternative which

a business may select to increase its revenue or

provide itself with a competitive advantage,”

saidCIBJOPresidentGaetanoCavalieri,speaking

recentlyinMilantostudentsintheMBAGlobal

Business and Sustainability programme at ALTIS

–Post-graduateBusiness&Society,thebusiness

school of Università Cattolica del Sacro Cuore,

the largest private university in Europe and the

largest Catholic university in the world.

In a wide-ranging presentation, Cavalieri

described to the students – who hail from

countries around the globe – the development

of CSR strategies in the jewellery business and

the specific obligations to society that should

be assumed by a luxury product sector.

“We deal in what are commonly considered

luxury items,” he stated. “In other words, fine

jewellery is non-essential, unlike food, energy or

pharmaceutical products. Consequently, in the

bigger scheme of things, there’s a tendency to

view our industry as having limited significance.

But that isn’t the case. On a global scale, the

number of individuals directly and indirectly

employed by the greater jewellery industry

runs into millions and there are entire countries

whose economic well-being is dependent upon

the products we produce and sell.”

With the increasing public interest in CSR,

and the private sector’s responsibility towards

greater society becoming a fixture in many

business school programmes, Cavalieri’s been

invited to lecture to numerous academic forums

about the specific programmes introduced in

the jewellery trade. Among the universities at

which he’s lectured are the Polytechnic Uni-

versityofMilanandSciencesPoandtheParis

InstituteofPoliticalStudies.

CIBJO pRESIDENT LECTURES BUSINESS SCHOOL GRADUATES

NEWS

The Jewellery Manufacturers’ Association of

SA (JMASA) has invited all students, appren-

tices and/or learners to participate in the 2015

Jewellery Council Collection Awards Jewellery

Design Competition. This competition has not

been held since 2011 and the Executive Com-

mittee thought it opportune to have it coincide

with Jewellex Africa 2015.

This year’s theme is “It Looks Like Christ-

mas”. “Everyone loves to receive a beautiful

piece of jewellery for Christmas, whether it’s a

mother, a father, a lover or a friend,” explains

Lorna Lloyd, CEO of the Jewellery Council of

SA. “Christmas encourages a special way of

expressing our love for others.” Entrants will

be required to design and manufacture a ring

which can be sold commercially.

Entries and finished jewellery items must

besubmittedtotheJMASAofficesbynolater

than 1 September 2015.

Judging will be conducted by visitors and

exhibitors at Jewellex Africa 2015 on the first

two days of the exhibition (27 and 28 October).

An overall winner, as well as those in second

and third place, will be selected.

The prize-giving ceremony will be held in the

CoffeeShopPiattaattheJewellexExhibitionon

29 October at 12h00.

The overall winner will receive a trophy of ex-

cellence sponsored by Umjindi Jewellery, 1 kg of

fine silver to the value of R8 000 sponsored by

CapePreciousMetals,aone-yearbursaryatany

training institution to be agreed upon with the

sponsor,MetalConcentrators,aswellasacash

prize of R3 000 sponsored by Sundelson Bros.

Those in second and third place will each

receive a trophy sponsored by Umjindi Jewellery,

500goffinesilversponsoredbyCapePrecious

Metals valued at R4 000 and a cash prize of

R1 000 sponsored by Sundelson Bros.

The top 10 finalists will each receive

a certificate.

JEWELLERY COUNCIL COLLECTION AWARDS COMpETITION

Renowned private collections dominated

Christie’s Spring auctions. Over 60 auction re-

cords were broken across categories and col-

lectors also witnessed the most valuable jew-

ellery auction ever organised in Asia (US$117,9

million). Buyers from mainland China contin-

ued to be active and were joined this year by

collectors from Singapore and Taiwan, who

competed for five days in 16 auctions.

“The season was especially memorable

for the many important collections curated

by Christie’s specialists, offering art-lovers

access to some of the top private collections

from around the world, including the family

collectionofK’ungHsiang-HsiandtheFeng

Wen Tang Collection. Combined with many

exquisite treasures, Christie’s rewrote the re-

cord for the highest total ever achieved for

CHRISTIE’S LEADS AUCTION MARKET IN HONG KONG a jewellery auction in Asia and a handbag

auctionheldworldwide.Manyotherrecords

were also established, including of 56 artist

records. These included a number of Asian

artistswhomade their auction débuts. The

auction week exemplified Asian collectors’

unwavering passion for fine art and collecta-

bles,” says RebeccaWei, President ofChris-

tie’s Asia.

USEFUL INFO

Your guide to gemstone deposits of the world

Brazil•diamond•emeraldandotherberyls•opal•quartzvarieties•tourmaline•topaz•garnet•chrysoberyl•amazonite

Tahiti•pearl

Hawaii•peridot•coral

Mexico•fireopal•quartzvarieties•topaz•turquoise•feldspar

Guatemala•jadeite

United States•sapphire•ruby•emerald•aquamarine•quartzvarieties•topaz•tourmaline•peridot

•garnets•nephrite•turquoise•sunstone•redberyl•feldspar•spodumene•pearl

Canada•diamond•amethyst•garnet

•nephrite•labradorite •feldspar

•amber•sodalite•ammolite

Colombia•emerald

Venezuela•diamond•jasper•pearl

Guyana•diamond

Bolivia•ametrine

West Indies •coral

Dominican Republic•amber

Alps•quartzvarieties•feldspar•fluorite

Spain•aventurine•quartz•jet

Italy•tourmaline•amber•coral•serpentine

Nigeria•sapphire•aquamarine•topaz•spinel

Sierra Leone, Ghana, Ivory Coast•diamond

Germany•amethyst*•agate*•topaz*

Great Britain•smokyquartz*•jet*•fluorite

Finland•labradorite

Poland•chrysoprase*•amber

Argentina•rhodochrosite•quartzvarieties

Central African Republic•diamond

South Africa •diamond•emerald*•quartz•tourmaline

•Transvaaljade•rhodochrosite•verdite•royallavulite

Namibia•diamond•aquamarine•quartz•agate•tourmaline•topaz•mandaringarnet•sodalite•demantoid

Honduras•opal

Chile •lapislazuli

14 SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2015

Areas such as Africa, Brazil and India are rich in varieties and have produced gems for centuries. Other localities yield a single gem of exceptional quality such as Mogok in Burma (Myanmar).

USEFUL INFO

Your guide to gemstone deposits of the world

Tanzania•tanzanite•tsavorite

•emerald•garnet

Taiwan•nephrite

Indonesia•diamond

Japan•jadeite•topaz•quartz•coral•rhodolite

New Zealand•nephrite

Australia•opal•sapphire•diamond•emerald•chrysoprase•jasper•nephrite•pearl•coral

China•nephrite•ruby•sapphire•aquamarine•amethyst •peridot•diamond•turquoise•amber•jadeite

Thailand, Vietnam•ruby•sapphire•almandine•garnet•zircon

Sri Lanka•ruby•sapphire•amethyst•tourmaline•topaz•zircon•garnet•chrysoberyl•spinel•moonstone •Iolite•otherrarespecies

India • diamond•ruby•sapphire•emerald•aquamarine •quartz•almandinegarnet•chrysoberyl•moonstone•rhodolite•stariopside•sodalite•pearl

Iran•turquoise

Kenya•ruby•sapphire•aquamarine•amethyst•tourmaline•garnet•spinel•feldspar•tsavoriteZaire

•diamond•ruby•sapphire•emerald•aquamarine•tourmaline•garnet•chrysoberyl•feldspar•tanzanite

Madagascar • aquamarine and other beryls•quartz•sapphire•ruby•spodumene•chrysoberyl •feldspar•topaz•tourmaline

Burma•ruby•sapphire•quartz•topaz•tourmaline•peridot •zircon•spinel•chrysoberyl•jadeite•moonstone •kunzite•amber•otherrarevarieties

•diamond•emeraldand other beryls •quartz

•chrysoprase•tourmaline•topaz•demantoid

•garnet•alexandrite•nephrite•lapislazuli

•feldspar•malachiteAfghanistan

•ruby•aquamarine•spinel•tourmaline•lapislazuli•kunzite

Austria •emerald*•almandine

Czech Republic • opal*•pyropegarnet*

Romania•chalcedony•amber•rhodolite•moldavite

Egypt•emerald*•jasper•peridot•turquoise*

Norway•emerald*•peridot•pyrope•garnet•aventurine•feldspar

Zambia•emerald•chrysoberyl•malachite

Zimbabwe • emerald•aquamarine•quartz•topaz•tourmaline•garnet•chrysoberyl•verdite•diamond

Angola•diamond

Botswana•diamond•agate

Mozambique • smoky quartz•tourmaline

Pakistan•ruby•emerald•aquamarine•garnet•spinel•topaz

Namibia•diamond•aquamarine•quartz•agate•tourmaline•topaz•mandaringarnet•sodalite•demantoid

Persian Gulf•pearl

Russia, Urals, Siberia

The symbol * indicates deposits of historic importance only

15SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2015


BRAND HISTORY

In the annals of watch history, the name Seiko Astron has played a significant role. The very first model was a technical

breakthrough in quartz watch technology. The release of a limited edition of 100 timepieces in Tokyo in 1969

heralded the so-called quartz watch revolution.

“Astron” ISTHEGREEKWORDFOR“STAR”

and in view of its stellar performance, this is

an apt name for the world’s first marketable,

quartz-powered watch which made the Seiko

name famous, particularly as it offered greater

accuracy than a mechanical timepiece, at five

seconds per month. These first models com-

bined the skills of the brand’s new technology,

with its experience in mechanical watchmaking

Quartz technology was not unknown –

experiments by Pierre Curie in the mid-19th

century had proved that when an electrical

current is passed across a quartz crystal, the

crystal vibrates at a very fast and precise speed.

In 1927 a technician at Bell Laboratories in the

USA was the first to demonstrate that time

could be measured accurately, based on this

presumption and as early as 1959, Seiko had

built a broadcast clock successfully used in

JapanbyradioandTVstations.Butthisclock

was huge and the challenge was to reduce it

to a timepiece small enough to wear within the

confines of a wrist-watch.

By 1962 Seiko had been successful in

building a quartz marine chronometer which

weighed 30 kg and the following year a

hand-held quartz timer was created

for sporting events, its weight a

mere 3 kg. This was the first

quartz device ever used at the

Olympic Games, in 1964 in

Tokyo, as a back-up timer for

longer athletic events. It was a

device which was marketed.

These developments had

proved that a stable and reliable

quartz timer could be built. But

the remaining challenge was that

of miniaturisation and the key ad-

vancement was the development of

an open-style stepping motor which re-

quired one coil (a stepping motor is an electro-

mechanical device that converts mechanical

impulses, dividing a full rotation into an equal

number of parts). The quartz movement also

needed to be reduced, while an integrated cir-

cuit (IC) had to be invented so that a miniature

battery could be used. These advances made it

possible to build a movement which could run

for more than a year on a button-sized battery

that could fit into a wristwatch – yet another

challenge being to reduce the size of the bat-

tery. “Energy efficiency was the key,” explains

RobertWilson,MDofSeikoEurope.

Christmas Day 1969 was a momentous

occasion in the history of what became known

as the quartz watch revolution when the first

Seiko Astron, in a limited edition of 100 in

an 18ct gold case, went on sale in Tokyo. It

almost anywhere on earth,” was the boast – in

39 time zones, actually. It represented further

expansion of the brand’s technology.

Thenewest release, theAstronGPSSolar

Dual Time – the third in the series – announced

at Baselworld 2015 is the perfect timepiece for

the global traveller. This sports watch contains

the remarkable 8x calibre first released at last

year’s international showcase and requires the

mere touch of one button on your time zone.

It is reputed to be the highest calibre available

worldwide. The exterior complements the

high technology within the advanced design

of the timepiece.

In a sleek, lightweight 45 mm titanium

case with black hand-coating, it has a ceramic

bezelandadialwhichaddflairtothesporty

style. The timepiece is mounted on a titanium

bracelet with ceramic inserts and included

is a separate crocodile leather strap with a

three-fold clasp to change the appearance

of the watch at will. Time zones are marked

on the interior dial ring and the bezel has a

tachymeter to enable the instant calculation

of speed in this avant garde creation. The

sapphire crystal has super-clear coating. The

timepiece is water-resistant to 10 bars and

magnetic-resistance is 4 800 Am. It is due for

release in September.

demonstrated that with further

technological advances, a

quartz watch could deliver

far greater accuracy than any

mechanical timepiece available

at the time, as this model was

accurate to five seconds a month.

In 1975 Seiko released the first

LCD quartz watch with a digital display

delivering even greater accuracy and

in 1983 an analogue quartz model fol-

lowed. Further innovations included the Seiko

Kinetic,poweredbythemovementofthewear-

er’s arm, which was a combination of automatic

and electronic watchmaking. “The first Astron

became a platform for future innovations – and

who’s to say what might eventuate?” asks Wil-

son. Astron became a name to remember – as

important today as it was in the 1960s and ’70s.

Yet despite the successes for which patents

had already been registered, Seiko chose

to make these advances available to the

watchmaking world. It could well be said that

the Japanese brand played a significant role in

advancing this new technology in the industry.

The second Astron released in 2012, the

SeikoAstronGPS Solar (so named in honour

of its predecessor), is part of the legend. “If

you can see the sky, you can know the time

The importance of being Astron


MARKET CONDITIONS

Despite facing undeniably

serious challenges, the South

African economy remains a

force to be reckoned with –

especially on the continent.

THE ROLE OF MINERALS AND METALS

in the South African economy cannot

be overstated; according to the World

Bank, they make up almost half of the

country’s total exports.

WithaGDPofUS$623billion,SAranks

25th in the world in terms of economic

muscle. It is the only African member

of BRICS, the group of rapidly emerg-

ing economies currently comprising

Brazil, China, India, Russia and SA. The country

of 53 million boasts the second-largest economy

in Africa (behind Nigeria), accounting for 24% of

the continent’s gross domestic product, and is

demonstratingconsistentgrowth.Muchofthis

growth is focused on Africa, where SA still ac-

counts for the highest amount of foreign direct

investment into the continent.

Strong fundamentals

SA continues to enjoy strong economic fun-

damentals, as evidenced by its weathering of

the 2007/8 global financial crisis. The country

was recently ranked as the 53rd most com-

petitive country in which to do business by the

respected World Economic Forum’s Global

CompetitivenessIndex(secondonlytoMauri-

tius on the continent and overtaking Brazil to

second in the BRICS cohort). According to the

report, which surveys business people in 148

countries and is conducted annually, South Af-

rican institutions fared excellently, particu-

larly in their protection of intellectual

property and property rights and the

legal system’s ability to challenge and

settle disputes effectively (all these

indicators were rated in the top

20 globally). The accountability

of South African private institu-

tions was ranked second in the

world, while its financial market

development continues to impress (ranked

third globally). In 2013, FDI magazine, taking

into account economic potential, la-

bour, infrastructure and the ease of

doing business, ranked the coun-

try as the top “African country

of the future”. And – partly

due to the above-men-

tioned global crisis, but

also due to perceived

improved quality of life

– SA is seeing a partial

reversal of the “brain-drain”

(professionals who emigrated

in the 1990s and 2000s),

with some researchers putting the number of

skilled returnees as high as 360 000.

The South African government has con-

siderably improved economic conditions –

particularly for the export market – including

putting in place policies that work to increase

efficiencies of time, cost and bureaucracy for

companies to get product to port, as evidenced

by the World Bank’s recent assessment of ease

of trading across South African borders.

Growing export markets

The results speak for themselves: exports from

SA have shown consistent growth. As of July

last year, SA exported R85,372 million worth

of goods (slightly down from its all-time high

of R86,499 million in November 2013). SA is a

leading global exporter of metals and miner-

als, fruit, sugar, corn and wool. According to

trading Economics, it is also the world’s biggest

exporter of chromium and platinum (account-

ing for 8% of the country’s total exports). Gold

(accounting for more than one-third of to-

tal exports), iron ore (7%), coal

(6%), motor vehicles and car

parts (5%) and diamonds

make up the rest of SA’s

main exports. Export

recipients include Ja-

pan and the USA (both

accounting for 10% of

SA’s economy still punches above its weight


MARKET CONDITIONS

The role of minerals and metals in the South African economy cannot be overstated; according to the World Bank, they make up almost half of the country’s total exports.

the market), Germany (7%),

theUK(6%),China(5%),the

Netherlands (4%), India and

Belgium. Sub-Saharan Africa

has recently overtaken Europe

as SA’s biggest trading partner (recipient) of

non-mineral exports.

Massive role of the mining industry

The role of minerals and metals in the South

African economy cannot be overstated;

according to the World Bank, they make up

almost half of the country’s total exports. SA’s

mining industry is estimated to be the fifth-

largest (in termsofGDP value) in theworld.

Massivereservesrestinthecountry,including

platinum (78% of global reserves), gold (50%

of global reserves), diamonds, chromate ore

and vanadium. Total reserves of all minerals

and metals are estimated to be worth upwards

of US$2,5 trillion. And, because South African

gold rests at low geothermal gradients, deeper

mining is possible; according to the Chamber

ofMines,SouthAfricangoldminingisvalued

at close to a whopping US$4 billion.

According to government statistics, SA is

the fourth-biggest producer in the world of

diamonds by value (after Botswana, Russia and

Canada), to the tune of R15 million in 2011.

Although higher demand in China and India is

seeing increased demand for cut diamonds in

resulted in very high expertise – notably in re-

search and production – as well as world-class

processing facilities. South African companies

are world leaders in converting low-grade su-

per-fine iron ore into high-quality iron units,

for example.

In recent years, however, South African mines

– particularly in the platinum sector – have seen

protracted and violent strikes, affecting output

and morale significantly. This culminated in the

deathsof48peoplein2013atMarikana.While

some of this unrest is undoubtedly due to intra-

union vying for power, sector management

needs to revisit labour policies in order to

ensure uninterrupted production. The rising

costs of electricity, transportation and other

infrastructural challenges also serve to counter

the sector’s growth.

Although the value of South African dia-

mond production has risen significantly in

recent years (even while production has de-

creased), there remains much to be done to

stimulate the domestic manufacturing and

polishing services in order to add value to

the finished diamond product. Approximate-

ly 16% of the world’s diamond production

comes from SA, yet only 1% of the world’s

jewellery is produced locally. In view of the

need to add value and thereby create employ-

ment and skills, emphasis has recently been

placed on upskilling young designers in jew-

ellery manufacturing. Currently, the industry

(which varies from high-end, bespoke studios

to large-scale concerns) employs almost 4 000

people, and this is growing due to increased

demand, especially from Europe and the USA.

(SA enjoys duty-free status on exports to the

latter under GATT.)

Vehicle manufacturing industry shows con-

sistent growth

While mining remains the major driver of the

South African economy, other important sectors

include motor vehicle and parts manufacturing,

telecommunications, information technology

(IT), tourism and agriculture.

Combined, the vehicle, component and tyre

manufacturing industries contribute around

6%ofGDPandcreateover100000jobs,ac-

cording to the Automotive Industry Export

Council. Some of the world’s best-known

vehiclebrands,suchasBMW,GeneralMotors,

Mercedes-Benz,Nissan,Toyota,Ford (Mazda),

RenaultandVolkswagen,havemanufacturing

plantsinSA,manybasedclosetoNelsonMan-

dela Bay Municipality (Port Elizabeth) to take

advantage of the COEGA Special Economic

Zoneandport.Manybrandedvehiclepartsare

also manufactured in SA.

SA’s economy still punches

emerging markets, almost 75% of the export

goes to traditional markets in Europe, Japan

and North America.

And the mining and minerals industry ben-

efits the domestic economy to the tune of bil-

lions. It is estimated to contribute more than

one-third of the value of the Johannesburg

Stock Exchange, while being an excellent earn-

er of foreign exchange. It contributes almost

13,2% of all company taxes and is responsi-

ble for 20% of foreign investment. Perhaps

more importantly, the mining sector remains

the country’s largest employer, creating 1,3

million jobs in 2012 and spending R7,4 billion

on training in the same year. This training has


MARKET CONDITIONS

Aided by SA being in the same time zone as

Europe, the excellent levels of spoken English

and cost-efficiencies, companies from Amazon

to Lufthansa employ thousands in their call

centres, for example.

The dawn of tourism

Tourism is another soft industry that

has gained major importance to

the South African economy.

Helped by good weather, di-

verse landscapes with a wealth

of wildlife, excellent food, con-

venient amenities and the success-

fulhostingof the2010FIFAWorldCup,SA is

regarded as a reasonably safe and accessible

gateway to see a part of Africa. Tourism is re-

sponsible for an almost 8% contribution to the

overallGDPin2009andthisfigureisexpected

to more than double by 2020. Government, see-

ing the excellent employment returns in the sec-

tor, is committed to growing tourism, with both

national and provincial tourism bodies actively

marketing their respective regions and expand-

ing their offerings on a consistent basis.

Agriculture – a waning force

Much is said of the quality of SouthAfrican

produce, but agriculture is no longer the ma-

jor contributor to the economy it once was

and is currently responsible for just 2,6% of

the country’s GDP. The sector employs 10%

of the formal workforce and many more on

acasualbasis.Maincropsincludecorn,fruit,

citrus and wool. Water scarcity and the high

costs of transportation and electricity

have made farming an increasingly

difficult business to pursue.

Facing the challenges

Notwithstanding the above, the

South African economy faces several

serious challenges. These include mas-

sive unemployment (pegged at 25%)

and huge inequality: SA is rated as the 82nd

most unequal country in the world. Corrup-

tion, especially in the public sector, has become

commonplace and hinders development. Due

to these issues, ratings agencies have recently

downgraded SA’s credit ratings – and are ex-

pected to do so again before year-end. This will

make the importation of much-needed ma-

chinery and transportation equipment (which

comprise one-third of all SA’s imports) more

expensive.

Besides building and maintaining existing

infrastructure, SA needs to smooth the way

for exporters through the lowering of logistics

and transportation costs and use its political

clout on regional political bodies such as SA-

DEC and the African Union to further regional

integration. The government is already well

aware of the benefits of encouraging small

and medium-sized enterprises, but can go fur-

ther in reducing red tape and increasing ac-

cess to finance for entrepreneurs.

If SA can meet these challenges, the next

decade should see the continued growth of its

economy and positive spin-offs for the coun-

try’s neighbours and the African continent as

a whole.

The Automotive Production & Develop-

ment Programme, the government initiative

to stimulate the motor manufacturing indus-

try, wants to see output quadruple by 2020

(in 2010, 271 000 vehicles were exported from

SA), mirroring the growth rate of the past two

decades; however, as in the mining sector, la-

bour unrest has affected the industry and will

need to be addressed for this sector to con-

tinue its strong growth.

Shift to service industries

Although still heavily reliant on the manu-

facturing and mining industries, the South

African economy is following other emerging

economies in making a shift towards “soft”

or service industries. The telecommunications

sectormakesup10%ofGDP.Theexistenceof

a top-notch digital and wireless infrastructure,

supported by satellite Internet access, and the

rapid roll-out of mobile technology have al-

lowed companies to expand rapidly and gain

hugeprofitshare.ManyofSA’soperators,such

as MTN and Vodacom, have successfully ex-

panded to the rest of the continent and to the

MiddleEast,forexample.

The IT industry accounts for $10,3 billion in

revenue, according to the South African Elec-

trotechnical Export Council. Much of this is

from electronic banking and mobile software

services, with local companies adapting First

World technology to meet the challenges of

developingnations. Pre-payment systems and

set-top box manufacturing are just two exam-

ples of South African IT products successfully

broughttomarket.Manyoftheseinnovations

are adapted and exported to the continent, in-

cluding to the fast-growing economies of Nige-

ria,MozambiqueandAngola.

South African software development com-

panies are recognised the world over for their

efficiency and flexibility. In fact, the country

was recently ranked as one of the best 30 na-

tions within which to outsource software de-

velopment. According to www.southafrica.info,

approximately 1 000 software development

companies exist in SA. South African companies

supportworldITleaderssuchasIBM,Dell,Intel

and others, which all have satellite offices in the

country.

The government is also actively encouraging

the growth of the IT sector through the Indus-

trial Development Corporation’s Support for

Industrial Innovation programme. The Income

Tax Act has been amended to allow software

developers to claim up to 150% of research

and development as expenses. Outsourcing by

multi-national companies is also done in the

customer service and telemarketing industries.

Sources:

www.wikipedia.org

www.southafrica.info/business/econo my/globalsurveys.htm#competitiveness

As quoted in Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FDi_magazine

Adcorp, as quoted on www.southafrica. info/abroad

www.mediaclubsouthafrica.com

www.tradingeconomics.com

www.worldbank.org

www.southafrica.info

http://chamberofmines.org.za

www.gov.za

http://info.goldavenue.com

As referenced on www.southafrica. info/business/economy/sectors/automo- tiveoverview.htm

Ranked by Gartner, as stated on www.southafrica.info/business/economy/sectors/icte-overview.htm#

National Department of Tourism: www.tourism.gov.za

According to Wikipedia: http://en.wiki-pedia.org/wiki/Agriculture_in_South_Africa

African odyssey 2014/15

Wishing all our Muslim clients a blessed fasting month and joyous Eid Mubarak.

From the Bassano Gioielli Team

Tel: (011) 704-5667/4164Fax: (011) 704-4002

www.bassanogioielli.com

Wishing all our Muslim clients, colleagues and friends a

blessed Ramadan.

Pretoria: (012) 000-4440Cape Town: (021) 510-0770

Durban: 083-600-2210E-mail: [email protected]

www.metcon.co.za

CJR Gift Sales (Pty) Ltd wishes all its Muslim customers prosperity,

faith and happiness in the holy month of Ramadan.

Tel: (011) 257-6000E-mail: [email protected]

Wishing all our Muslim clients and friends happiness and faith in the holy month of Ramadan

and a joyous Eid ul Fitr.

Tel: (011) 642-2018/9Fax: (011) 642-2016E-mail: [email protected]

Wishing all our Muslim clients prosperity, faith and happiness in

the holy month of Ramadan and a joyous Eid ul Fitr.

Tel: (011) 805-7574Fax: (011) 805-7576


InternatIonal DIamonD

CertIfICatIon laboratory

D I ABest wishes to you and your family

for a happy and blessed Eid.

Tel: (011) 334-5911E-mail: [email protected]

www.diagrading.co.za


JEWELLEX AFRICA

There seems to be a revival of the local industry, with Jewellex being the catalyst.

Watch industry

What would an exhibitor/visitor gain from

attending Jewellex and what does Mon-

tres du Monde wish to gain?

There seems to be a revival of the local

industry, with Jewellex being the catalyst –

and every visitor and exhibitor will be a part

of this. We’re excited about the event and are

looking forward to meeting all the key players

in the industry there.

Do you think Jewellex Africa 2015 will be

different from previous years?

I’ve heard that it’s going to be very different

and, unlike recent years, most of the space has

alreadybeensold.Myadviceis:don’tmissit!

How long have you been involved in the

jewellery industry in South Africa?

I was born into the jewellery industry, so I’ve

been involved in it my whole life, but only for

the past 15 years on a full-time basis.

Are you optimistic about the future of the

South African jewellery industry – and

the watch industry, in particular?

The industry’s facing a difficult time at the

moment, but I have no doubt that the market

will turn. The trick is to be able to survive until

then. Due to the influx of brands into the

South African market, customers have more

exposure to different watches and are better

educated about watches, which leads to a better

understanding of the value of a particular brand.

The future of the watch industry is exciting.

What brands will be on display at the

Montres du Monde stand at this

year's Jewellex Africa?

We’ll be showcasing Bell&Ross at

Jewellex. We’ll also be launching an-

other high-end luxury brand there which will

definitely “wow” visitors.

Why will Montres du Monde attend Jew-

ellex Africa again this year?

Last year was a good show for us and Jewellex

Africa is the only time we get to see all the

retailers and showcase ourselves in the correct

environment. The news in the trade is that

2015 will be an exceptional event and we

definitely don’t want to miss out.

Why are shows like Jewellex vital?

The players in the industry, from manufacturing

to wholesale and retail, need to realise that

we’re all dependent on each other and that we

need to work together in order for everyone

to be successful. Jewellex brings all the sectors

of the industry together and is a platform for

them to interact.

Mohammed Ravat of Montres du Monde, which won Stand of the Year at last year’s Jewellex Africa with its renowned watch brand Bell&Ross, is very excited about this year’s show, where it will be launching another high-end luxury brand.

enthusiastic aboutthis year’s show


BRAND MANAGEMENT: FRENCH WATCHES, JEWELLERY AND HIGH JEWELLERY

French luxury watch and clockmaker

Pequignet is dedicated to quality and a love

of craftsmanship, which is made possible by

its independence as a company. The brand’s

successful Royale Titane design has now been

produced in a limited edition in a unique black

version of 50 pieces.

Its new model, the Royale Titane Grande

Date Calibre Noir, has a 44 mm black DLC

titanium case, with its movement the calibre

Royale. It has large Superluminova indices

on the hour and minute hands on its black

sunburst dial, a small seconds dial, an 88-hour

power reserve indicator and a double date and

day window.

This model is water-resistant to 50 m and

has a sapphire case-back held by six titanium

screws, an anti-reflective sapphire bezel and

a black titanium crown marked with

the fleur-de-lys logo relief. The black

dial has a large date in a double

window, the small seconds dial

and the power reserve indicator,

aswellasanappliquéhourring

with cloisonné Luminova and

Superluminova hands.

The “Calibre Royale” move-

ment with which the watch is

fitted is designed, assembled and

tested in the brand’s high watch-

making laboratories in Morteau in

theFrenchwatchmakingregionofthe

Jura Mountains. It has 21 600 vibra-

tions per hour, with dual-direction auto-

matic initial force distribution by a central bar-

Elegance in black

Born one morning in 1990 in the crea-

tivemindofjewellerLorisKorchidian,un-

der thenameof LorisParis, thebrandhas

weathered the decades and now takes

thename“Loris&LorisParis”. Its crea-

tor has strived ceaselessly for perfection,

both in his work and in the materials and

raw materials used.

AsasmallchildinLebanon,Korchidian

spent most of his time in his grandfather’s

workshop. Exposed to the business from

a very young age and irresistibly drawn to

beautiful and precious objects, he began work

as an apprentice to a jeweller at the age of 14,

before being consumed by a passion for setting

precious stones.

Scarcely aged 20, he created his own jewel-

lery brand, making his childhood dream come

true.InParis,herapidlymetwiththegreatest

namesofthePlaceVendômeanddecided

to install his workshop close to this mythi-

cal square and develop his own high-end

jewellery brand.

Loris & Loris specialised in the creation

and manufacture of high jewellery

items and achieved success very

quickly, acclaimed for its exper-

tise in design and craftsmanship.

Today the firm continues

to produce the distinctively French

aesthetic of high-end jewellery which

its founder first embraced. The brand’s

ambition is to continue its develop-

mentthroughpartnershipsbothinFranceand

abroad. Loris & Loris creations are currently vis-

ibleindisplaywindowsinParis,ChinaandJa-

pan. It recently unveiled three new collections:

Joanne, Ginza and Claire.

Because women are so diverse and dynamic,

Joanne is a range of rings in grey gold compris-

ing three models: one set with four diamonds

in the centre surrounded by small brilliants and

with matching earrings, a second set with one

diamond and a third without diamonds.

Inspired by the Japanese art of knot-

tying and taking its name from a famous

district of Tokyo, Ginza is a grey gold pen-

dant set with diamonds. A grey gold chain

is also available in a larger model set with

small brilliants. Two small knots as earrings,

set with diamonds, complete the collection.

Fifteen referencesofbracelets, rings,pen-

dants and earrings in grey, pink or yellow gold

and diamonds comprise the Claire collection of

more streamlined, accessible items. All of them

are based on diamonds, comprising the brand’s

totem and highly graphic ranges.

Loris & Loris paris unveils Joanne, Ginza and Claire

rel axis and large balance with compensating

screws. This movement is finished with pearl

black bridges and plate and Côtes de

Genève, as well as a black sunburst-

winding rotor. The watch is mounted

on a black vulcanised rubber strap,

also marked with the lys motif

and a black DLC titanium double

butterflybuckle.

The 50 models of this

elegant watch will be produced

with 30 having a date display in

Englishand20withitinFrench.

The Calibre Royale is the latest

movement produced by the brand

and includes numerous innovations

and integrated complications, eight of

them patented. The movement is exclu-

sivetoPequignet.

pierre Lannier: from trendy to sophisticated Pierre Lannier’s latest collection for

2015 offers a wide range of models

– from trendy to highly sophisticated

– in a variety of materials, shapes and

mechanisms.

Chic and feminine, Les Citadines has

now been expanded to include new models

of minimalist design with elegant and refined

details in an urban chic style, available in

various different versions.

Pierre Lannier continues the de-

velopment of the Les Contempo-

raines range, now extended to

include many models in soft

shapes, celebratingMil-

anese mesh, taken from

men’s ranges and creat-

ing a resolutely new look.

LesContemporaines’LesCé-

ramiques proves that white or black

ceramic is always very popular. The new

collection includes designs whch are even

more feminine, designed with fashion in

mind and with precious-look details (such

as strass, pearly dials and golden links).

The Les Chronographes range is

always very trendy: circular or rectan-

gular, the various styles have a

notably urban look, highlighting

the brand’s expertise.

For city gentlemen, Les

Chronographes’ City Chics are

both discreet and original, with

an innovative design. They are avail-

able in three different versions: steel

case and white, black dial with Roman

numerals or pinkish gold steel case with

matching Roman numerals.


BRAND MANAGEMENT: FRENCH WATCHES, JEWELLERY AND HIGH JEWELLERY

Saint Honoré celebrates parisSaintHonoréhasbeensynonymouswith the

famous“Parisstyle”since1885andpresents

easily identifiable collections. The elegance

and watchmaking know-how of the brand at-

tract amateurs of contemporary timepieces.

Elegance, tradition, innovation and passion

are the brand’s watchwords. Two of its latest

collections are Tour Eiffel and Audacy.

In celebration of its 130th anniversary, Saint

Honoréhasdesignedacollector’smodelmade

for the first time from a metallic beam taken

from the Eiffel Tower, one of the most famous

monuments in the world.

Saint Honoré has used this precious com-

ponent to make the bezel, whose pattern and

colourareanimmediatereminderoftheParis-

ian landmark.

The bezel surrounds a dial created in relief

(which uses the same architecture) and reveals

at its centre the cogs of a mechanical, auto-

matic winding movement, specifically person-

alised by the brand.

Worn on an elegant croco-look strap, the

“Tour Eiffel” watch is produced in a limited edi-

tion of 1885 steel watches (in celebration of the

year in which this watchmaking firm was estab-

lished). It is a unique opportunity to wear an ex-

ceptionalsymbolofFranceandthetechnologi-

cal genius of Gustave Eiffel on your wrist.

The steel case is surmounted by a bezel

sculpted from an element of the tower’s fa-

mous lattice pattern. The open-work silvery

dial is also reminiscent of its architecture. The

brown croco-look strap has a “Tour Eiffel” pin

buckle. The watch comes in a collector’s case,

with a certificate of authenticity signed by the

companywhichoperatesthetower,theSociété

d’Exploitation de la Tour Eiffel.

“Red suits you so well” is a real declaration –

and the “Audacy” watch displays the colour of

passion and love. Entirely red from dial to strap,

the watch seeks to seduce and even bewitch.

The “clous de Paris” hobnail decoration

reigns supreme on the bezel, in a very carefully

laid-out two-row pattern, as well as on the dial,

around the edge of the subsidiary seconds dial.

The watch boasts a gorgeous red guillochéd

dial decorated with silver-coloured indices and

hands for perfect legibility.

Another visual signature lies in the gener-

ously curved crown, off-centred at 4 o’clock,

giving this model a unique look. Decorated

with an onyx, the crown further enhances the

prestige and elegance of a watch that is both

discreet and dazzling.

Formorediscreetwomen,SaintHonoréof-

fers this model with a white, brown or golden

dialand leatherstrap.Morecoloursmakethe

watch just as desirable.

The Marie Antoinette collectionIn this collection, Commelin pays tribute to the

lastqueenofFrance:MarieAntoinette.

Thedaughter of theHoly RomanEmperor

FrancisIandEmpressMariaTheresaofAustria,

shewasborninViennaon2November1755.

In April 1770, she married the future king

of France, Louis XVI andmoved to Versailles,

where she had four children before her tragic

death on the guillotine on 16 October 1793 in

Paris,duringtheFrenchRevolution.

Passionateaboutflowers(particularlyroses),

MarieAntoinettewasrenownedforherloveof

nature and her great elegance.

In 18ct (750/1 000th) white or yellow gold

and translucent or opaque precious enamel,

the“BouquetdeMarieAntoinette”collection

is available as earrings and a pendant.

A necklace, pendant and earrings in 18ct

(750/1 000th) white or yellow gold and trans-

lucent or opaque precious enamel comprise the

“RosesdeMarieAntoinette”collection.

The “Rubans de Marie Antoinette” evoke

the delicate ornamental ribbons that decorated

her royal apartments. This line includes pen-

dant and earrings in white or yellow gold with

translucent or opaque enamel.

Inspired by portholes on transatlantic yachtsForover65years,theMichelHerbelin

workshopsinCharquemont,Franche-

Comténear theSwissborder,have

been designing, manufactur-

ing and selling French-made

watches all over the world. The

Herbelinfamilyarehugefansof

sailing and this has inspired their

creativity for three generations.

A testimony to this passion is

the Newport Yacht Club watch, the

brand’s emblematic timepiece in-

spired by the portholes on transatlantic

yachts which has appeared in many

variations, including Newport

Trophy, Newport Yacht Club,

Odyssée and Newport Yacht

Club Squelette.

Naturally, the Herbelin

family has been involved in

major sailing races and many

sailors wear the brand’s watches.

Michel Herbelin was partner to

the 2014 Route du Rhum race which

leftSaint-MaloinBrittanyon2Novemberfor

Point-à-Pitre in Guadeloupe, with over 90

yachts in the race.

For the occasion, Herbelin revealed the

latest from the emblematic Newport line: the

“NewportYachtClubRégate”.

With an automatic movement, this new

version boasts a steel case, a hand-brushed

white dial and a blue leather strap. The move-

ment has hour, minute, small second, 60-sec-

ond chrono, 30-minute counter and 12-hour

functions, as well as an oscillating weight.


Contact Adri Viviers on 084-261-1805 or [email protected]

MARKETPLACE

28

thePlaceVendômenearthefamedHotelRitz,

thehauntoftherichandpowerful.ThePlace

Vendôme,consideredtheheartofParisanda

highly-prized address for over 3 000 years, as

constructedduringthereignofLouisXIVwas

an expression of grandeur. But the store had

no front or street sign and only a small, discreet

plaque with the engraving “JAR” announced

the locationofhisboutique.Herehe created

jewellery by almost “painting” his pieces with

coloured stones, presenting a very different

ethos.Hisjewellerymarkedthereturntofash-

ion of coloured diamonds.

Little by little, the then fashionable concept

of sparkling white diamonds saw them inter-

spersed with splashes of colour by introducing

emeralds, rubies, sapphires, turquoise, lapis

lazuli and corals – and this became the vogue.

It also became one of the key elements of high

jewellery. Thus the return to colour played a

key role in jewellery design at the time.

JAR’s pieces were one of a kind: the crafts-

manship was superb and his creations were

limited and very expensive. It could take him

as long as a year to complete a single piece.

Heusedmaterials suchasplatinumand tita-

nium, while maintaining his discretion about

hisidentity.Hisclientelehadbroadenedfrom

the initial local Parisians to international

travellers and in 1987, the company

relocated to a larger space next

door to the original shop – the

same one from which it op-

erates today. The team was

expanded to a few excep-

tional craftsmen specialising

in their fields of operation.

The jewels fulfilled an aes-

thetic, rather than a commercial

ambition. But the superior crafts-

manship of JAR’s work, his sculptural crea-

tions incorporating shallow and unusual gem-

stones and his attention to detail singled his

creations out as exceptional.

His clients were the glitterati, the rich and famous – the Rothschilds, Guinesses and Rockefellers. It was said that every fashionable woman aspired to owning a piece of his jewellery. Yet he chose anonymity and used the initials of his name – JAR – to identify his brand. Alice Weil looks at the man who was considered the most gifted creator of the present generation of jewellers.

JOELARTHURROSENTHAL,WHOWASBORN

in 1943 and grew up in the Bronx, New York

City, has been named “the greatest jeweller of

our time”. Growing up in this environment, he

spent much of his early life visiting museums

which stirred in him a passion for beautiful

objects, art and history. He studied those

subjects, as well as philosophy, at Harvard

University, from which he graduated in 1966

andthenmovedtoParis.Thereheembarked

on a series of diverse jobs such as screen-

writer and embroiderer of needlework. It was

in Paris that he met his future companion,

PierreJennet,whowastobethe“otherhalf”

of their enterprise.

With Jennet, Rosenthal spent many of his

earlydays inParisatantique shops,museums,

galleries and auction houses, where he learnt

about antique jewellery, diamonds, pearls and

coloured stones. In 1973 the duo opened a

needlepoint shop in the rue de l’Université,

which for him meant painting mainly flowers

on white canvas and playing with the palette of

colours of the wools. This venture lasted only 11

The meticulous work of JAR


LITTLE GEMS

months, but his work captured the attention of

fashiondesignerssuchasHermèsandValentino.

Hiscareermovedinanotherdirectionwhen

he was asked to design a mount for a stone.

Back in the USA in 1976, he worked for a short

period as a salesman in Bulgari’s New York

store,butreturnedtoParisin1977.Hebegan

making pieces in affordable materials such

as coral and moonstones, explaining that he

wanted to “play with stones”.

Followinghissuccess,heandJennetfound-

ed JAR and, in 1978, opened a salon at No 7 in

JAR’s craftsmanship was superb and his creations were limited and very expensive. It could take him as long as a year to complete a single piece.

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T: +27 11 334 7228 F: +27 86 577 7718 [email protected] www.dorondiamonds.co.za

it’s your choice

Large stone specialists.

No call too diffi cult

NO STONE LEFT UNTURNED

From Rough to Factoryto Laboratory to You

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Call one dealer, if we dont have it, we’ll fi nd it

sajn july 2015

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