sajn - oct 2013

south african jewellery news

The industry's only trade journal

OC

TOB

ER 2

013

IIJW and IIJS 2013 live up to their reputations

A diamond fit for royalty

New products and exhibitors at

Jewellex Africa

14. JEWELLEX AFRICA 2013New products and exhibitors at Jewellex

5SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2013

The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2013. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

Official Journal of the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa. Website: www.jewellery.org.za

Banking Details: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC Bank: Standard Bank, Sandton, South Africa Branch Code: 01-92-05 Current Account Number: 4209 6822 9

For over five millennia the talismanic emerald has been sought after for its seductive beauty

and treasured as an emblem of power and a symbol of hope. Today, emeralds are all the

more precious when sourced from Gemfields, pioneers in the ethical and environmentally

responsible mining of African coloured gemstones. For more information about our

emeralds, tel: (021) 79-2488 or visit: www.gemfields.co.uk.

On the cover

Editor: Adri Viviers

Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805

E-mail: [email protected]

Watch Editor: Alice Weil

Tel: +27 (0)11 880-1680 Cell: 083-266-9182


Advertising Sales: Tanja Jordaan

Cell: 083-268-6153


Advertising Sales Representative (India):

Bhupal Potdar


Advertising Sales Representative (Hong Kong):

Maud Errera


Designer: Joanne Brook

Copy Editor: Anne Phillips

Subscriptions & Accounts: Thuli Majola

Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Fax: +27 (0)11 783-2677


Distribution: Ruth Dlamini and Prestige Bulk Mailers

SA Jewellery News is published by:

Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC,

PO Box 651793, Benmore, 2010,

Johannesburg, South Africa.

27 Panners Lane, Riverclub, Sandton, South Africa.

Website: www.isikhova.co.za

Chief Executive Officer: Andrew Meyer


Chief Financial Officer: Imraan Mahomed


Printing: Colors

SOUTH AFRICAN JEWELLERY NEWS

The industry's only trade journal

OC

TOB

ER 2

013

IIJW and IIJS 2013 live up to their reputations

A diamond fi t for royalty

New products and exhibitors at

Jewellex Africa

17. BRAND HISTORYPatek Philippe: a passion for perfection

18. INTERNATIONAL FAIRIIJW and IIJS 2013 live up to their reputations

6. NEWS• Indiandiamondindustrycommitsits support for World Diamond Mark

• InternationalGemTowerattracts additional top-notch jewellery industry players

• Christie’sauctionofMagnificent Jewels: 15 October

• Faces of Eternity: GIA débuts its ethereal exhibit in October

• Fourdays,1200tradersand US$2 billion of goods on IDE floor

• Threejewelleryindustryassociation chief executives appointed to senior postsinCIBJO’sjewellerymanu- facturing and distribution sectors

28. LITTLE GEMSA diamond fit for royalty

21. BRAND MANAGEMENT• AnewwatchtakingtheBell&Ross style back to the future

• Tissot:Intouchwithtechnology

• Arosyoutlook

• Italianbrandoptsforfashioncolours

• TitanwinsBestProductDesignofthe Year – Watches and Jewellery

• UlyssesNardin:Technologyforthe high seas

c ntents

NEWS

Exclusively available from Something SpecialTEL: 011 544 1500 • FAX: 011 643 4987 • EMAIL: info@something special.co.za • www.somethingspecial.co.za

EXCITING BABY RANGE

Exclusively available from Something Specialinfo@something special.co.za • www.somethingspecial.co.za

STOCKIST

OPPORTUNITIES

AVAILABLE

NCDIA TO HOST BROWN DIAMOND CONFERENCE

WFDB PRESIDENT ERNIE BLOM APPOINTED ECONOMIC DIPLOMACY ADvISOR TO BELGIuM

On 3 October the Natural Color Diamond

Association (NCDIA) will host a 2013 conference

on brown diamonds at theDiamondDealer’s

Club in New York City. The spectrum of natural

brown diamonds is often referred to in common

colour terms as champagne, cognac, chestnut

and latte, as well as trademarked names such

as LeVian’sChocolateDiamonds,andoneof

theNCDIA’sgoals istohelpthetradeexpand

the selection of colour descriptions to make

them more friendly and understandable to

consumers. These colour schemes are an

everyday part of the fashion world and lend

themselves to perfect jewellery accessories.

The conference will feature presentations

by leading scientists, gemmologists and

designersledbyNCDIA’sdirectorofeducation,

Thomas Gelb, Wuyi Wang of the Gemological

Institute of America, Eddie LeVian of LeVian

Jewelry, Surbhi Pandya of YNY Jewels and

Gary A Roskin, GG, FGA and publisher and

host of the Roskin Gem News.

There will be an extensive exhibit of de-

signer jewellery and unset loose brown fam-

ily diamonds, including pinkish and reddish,

which show the diversity and creative designs

they have inspired.

The NCDIA’s mission is to educate and

promote the global awareness of and de-

sire for natural colour diamonds. Founded in

2003, the NCDIA is a non-profit, membership-

based organisation.

ErnieBlomhasbeenappointedasSouthAfrica’s

Economic Diplomacy Advisor to Belgium after

being nominated by the Belgian Minister of

Foreign Affairs. The appointment, by Royal

Decree, is based on Blom’s contribution to the

development of social, economic, trade and

financial relations between the two countries.

In order to serve as an Economic Diplomacy

Advisor, Blom had to meet a number of requirements

which included having an honourable reputation,

enjoying civil and political rights, experience of at

least 10 years on the subject of social, economic,

trade or financial matters and having sufficient

knowledge of the institutional framework and the

socio-economic climate of Belgium.

Blom’s responsibilities will include submitting

notices to the Minister of Foreign Affairs which

contribute to the development of socio-economic,

trade and financial relations between Belgium and

South Africa, as well as responding to enquiries

by the minister on information relating to South

Africa. Blom will also be tasked with assisting the

Belgian diplomatic representative in South Africa

with the development of the region.

NEWS

Cape Town:Tel 021 510 0770, Fax 021 510 0778

GauTenG: 0861 MeTalS (0861 638 257)Durban: Cell 082 789 3882

WEBSTER’S NEW CAMPAIGN IS A WHITE-OuTStephen Webster has partnered with photo-

grapher John Rankin to introduce a bright new

advertising campaign.

The models in the campaign are painted

white and photographed in striking angles

with close cropping, keeping jewellery as the

main focus.

Jewellery included in the ads is from

Webster’s 2013/14 Thorn, Fly By Night and

Deco Haze collections, as well as a statement

piece from the silver Superstoned line.

The campaign images also aim to highlight

the gemstones in the jewellery: opal, ruby,

emerald and tanzanite.

Webster and Rankin set out to create a

dramatic juxtaposition between the new

campaign and the 2012/13 campaign,

which was dark and shaded in contrast. This

campaign is lighter, reflecting the mood

of Webster’s new, “finer” collections, the

brand says.

“Rankin and his team at The Full Service

(creative content agency) know exactly what

we are looking to achieve, ‘luxury with an

edge’. This is really what sets us apart.With

each campaign the message becomes more

established,”Webstersays. – National Jeweler

CIBJO has announced the appointment of three

veteran jewellery industry chief executives to

key positions in the organisation’s Sector B,

which covers areas of the jewellery business

related to distribution, including retailing and

Sector C, which covers jewellery manufacturing,

technology and precious metals.

Willie Hamilton, chief executive of the

Company of Master Jewellers in the United

Kingdom, was appointed executive vice-

president of CIBJO’s Sector B. Simon Rainer,

chief executive of the British Jewellers’

Association (BJA), who was already serving

as a Sector C vice-president, was appointed

as executive vice-president of CIBJO’s Sector

C. Michael Rawlinson, chief executive of the

National Association of Goldsmiths in the

United Kingdom, was appointed as the third

vice-presidentofCIBJO’sSectorB.

The position of a sector executive vice-

THREE EXPERIENCED JEWELLERY INDuSTRY ASSOCIATION CHIEF EXECuTIvES APPOINTED TO SENIOR POSTS IN CIBJO'S JEWELLERY MANuFACTuRING AND DISTRIBuTION SECTORS

president is a new one in CIBJO and it will

involve functioning as the chief executive

of the division within the World Jewellery

Confederation.

“Our objective in making these appoint-

ments is to inject new momentum and proven

ability into these sectors, in order to increase

their range of activities and improve the level

of service that we provide to the industry,”

says Gaetano Cavalieri, CIBJO president. “All

three men are experienced industry association

managers and possess the knowledge and abil-

ity necessary to initiate and sustain change in

a representative body like CIBJO. Furthermore,

the dialogue that they engage in and their close

working relationship will enhance the sectors’

abilitytoaddressissuesofcommonconcern.”

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2013

Peruvian artist and master carver Luis Alberto

Quispe Aparicio will début a collection of 15

gem skulls on 18 October at the Gemological

InstituteofAmerica’s(GIA)worldheadquarters

in Carlsbad. The Faces of Eternity exhibit,

which will be on view through April 2014,

was inspired by the juxtaposition of human

mortality and the timelessness of gemstones.

The intricately carved and polished, life-size

skulls are made from different large gem

crystals and ornamental rock, adding character

to each piece.

“Themagnificent gems and rocks used to

create the skulls, combined with the skill of a

master craftsman, give these unique pieces an

ethereal beauty. From fossilised whale bone to

rainforest jasper, and from pink opal to peanut

wood agate, Luis Alberto chose materials from

a gem-lover’s dream,” says Terri Ottaway,

curator of the GIA Museum. “Each skull has

a distinctive look and feel to it, making this

collection fascinating on both a gemmological

andanartisticlevel.”

Faces oF eternity: GIA DÉBuTS ETHEREAL EXHIBIT IN OCTOBER

Aparicio – an engineer by profession and

second-generation master in these objets d’art

– merges sculpting and jewellery fabrication

techniques, creating unusual design work that

is distinct from traditional European carvings.

Along with his sister, Sylvia, he has helped to

revive Neoart Peru, a family-owned company

started in 1975 that specialises in ruby carvings

and focuses on natural wildlife-inspired themes

using rare and unusual gemstones from around

the globe.

“Theskullcollectionwasoneofmyfavourites

to create. By carving natural gemstones with

a combination of lapidary art and metalsmith

techniques, you can really see how the colours

and textures in each stone bring each piece to

life,”saysAparicio.

The complete collection is comprised

of 26 pieces, each hand-carved from

gemstones sourced from around the world

and complemented by parts in silver and gold

vermeil. The collection was designed and

carved over the period of one year. Fifteen

pieces make up the Faces of Eternity exhibit

at GIA in Carlsbad, while the remaining pieces

are in private collections in France, the USA,

the UK and Russia.

Pieces exhibited are on loan from Aparicio.

Gaetano Cavalieri joined government officials,

senior industry representatives and leading

gemmologists from around the world at

a conference in Paris recently, to celebrate

the 50th anniversary of the founding of

l'Association Française de Gemmologie (AFG),

the French Gemmological Association.

Addressing the gathering, Cavalieri credited

AFG and the gemmological community for

enhancing the confidence of consumers in

jewellery and the jewellery industry through

their efforts to advance the principles of full

transparency and disclosure.

”Consumer confidence is the platform

on which we stand. If it becomes fragile and

collapses,sowillwe,”hestated,wishingAFG,

its president, Didier Giard, and its Council of

Administration “many more years of serving

as one of the buttresses of the foundation on

whichweallstand”.

”Your ability to keep abreast of develop-

ments in the marketplace and the minefields,

to conduct proper and disciplined scientific

research, to publish and disseminate what you

have learned, and then to serve the industry

through gem identification and grading is abso-

lutelyessential,”Cavalieristated.“Wearede-

pendent upon your professional integrity, the

quality of your research and the way in which

you organise and operate your laboratories.

You hold the reputation of our business in the

palms of your hands. It is a privilege and also a

greatresponsibility.”

The CIBJO president called on the partici-

pants at the conference to contribute to the

review and maintenance of the CIBJO Blue

Books,whichhedescribedas“themostuniver-

sally recognised and accepted set of jewellery

andgemstonestandardsintheworld”.

CIBJO PRESIDENT CELEBRATES FRENCH GEMMOLOGICAL ASSOCIATION’S 50TH YEAR, PRAISES CRITICAL ROLE OF GEMMOLOGISTS IN MAINTAINING CONSuMER CONFIDENCE

10 SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2013

Manufacturing Jewellers celebrates 21 yearsAfter Andreas Salver wasn’t able to get a

job with Rael Kahn many moons ago, he

decided to start his own business at the

back of Richard Francis Jewellers, a newly

acquired shop in Bedford Centre. There,

in all of about 25 square meters of space,

he set up a double bench – one for himself

and one for Richard Silverthorn. Hardly

qualified and coming from an unfinished

apprenticeship with his stepfather Alan

Mair, he was determined to make a success

of his new endeavour.

“My mom was a jeweller and was

married to Alan Mair, one of the biggest

jewellers in the country. I was still uncertain

about what I wanted to do with my life and

haven’t given much thought to entering

the jewellery industry. That’s when my

stepfather suggested that I work for him

for a while until I decide what I wanted

to do – this made my mom very happy as

she always wanted me to follow in her

footsteps. Making jewellery came easy to

me and I even made a piece in my first two

weeks which was absolutely perfect – well,

maybe not ‘perfect’ to Journey man Harald

Niederhumer (now Aurum Designs) but

I believe it was at least 95% there. From

that day my passion wasn’t necessarily

to make jewellery, but to make jewellery

perfectly,” recalls Andreas.

“During my days at Richard Francis

Jewellery I grew by the day, with more and

more shops asking me to do their specials.

After seven years with Richard I employed

five jewellers which meant that I needed to

move upstairs as space became a problem.

There we continued making great pieces

with a fantastic vibe in the workshop. We

were constantly showing the guys easy

ways to make perfect jewellery – always

being in competition with each other.

“However, one day, while sitting in a

restaurant with my dad, I got a call from

Bedford Centre management telling me

bottom which resulted in heavy smoke

coming from my shop. The next morning

I was evicted from the building as

management felt that I was a fire hazard

and decided to move to Coachmans

Crossing in Peter Place – which is where

we’ve been for the past 13 years.

“I always try to do the best deal possible

for my clients. I work mostly with the

trade and it has taken years of consistent

hard work to earn an established and

trusted name in the industry. We’ve won

many prestigious awards during the years

with our competition pieces – possibly

five times more than any other jeweller in

the industry.

“After the passing of my mother earlier

this year my entire focus changed. Now,

whenever we manufacture a piece I think

of the legacy we leave behind when we

go. I think of some of the pieces we’ve

made and how much joy they’ve brought

to our clients. I think of pieces we’ve made

that may be passed on from generation

to generation.

“I, however, believe that the best

piece of jewellery you can ever make is

something your client can wear every

single day and the more he/she wears it,

the more they love it.

“I would like to thank all the people

with whom I had the pleasure of working

with over the years – thank you for being a

part of my journey.”

Andreas Salver

that the centre was on fire. They asked

whether they could break down the front

door of my shop. Two minutes later I

received another phone call informing me

that the fire is coming from my premises.

While racing down the highway in my

Toyota Tazz all I could think of was the

large oxygen bottle which was standing

next to an acetylene bottle. Luckily it was

only a small heating plate that was turned

onto high instead of off. This caused the

sulphuric acid which was on top of it to

boil and was burning the crystals on the

ADVERTORIAL

TEL: 011 706 6828 | FAx: 011 706 1129 | EMAIL: [email protected] | [email protected] | WWW.ANDREASSALVER.COM


NEWS

Christie’sNewYorkisbeginningthefallauction

season with an exceptional line-up of fine

jewels, important diamonds and rare coloured

gemstones to highlight its sale of Magnificent

Jewels on 15 October. In keeping with collector

demand after the historic sale of The Princie

Diamond, the most valuable Golconda diamond

ever sold at auction, this sale offers a trio of

coloured diamonds of superior quality, depth of

colour, tone and saturation.

“It was an unprecedented season for

Christie’s this spring, having achieved three

world record-breaking diamond sales in New

York, Geneva and Hong Kong,” notes Rahul

Kadakia, Head of Jewellery for Christie’s

AmericasandSwitzerland.“Forthefirstmajor

fall sale in New York, our team of jewellery

specialists have travelled the globe to gather

the finest-quality diamonds, emeralds, rubies,

sapphires and rare vintage jewels from notable

estates and private collections. In anticipation

of a continued strong market, we look forward

to offering collectors the best in the world of

jewelleryauctions.”

CHRISTIE’S AuCTION OF MAGNIFICENT JEWELS: 15 OCTOBER

Peregrine Diamonds Ltd reported that its

Chidliak summer exploration programme,

operated by De Beers Canada Inc, was

completed on 19 August and included the

discovery of two new kimberlites and a possible

kimberlite float, which is undergoing final

petrographic confirmation. Concurrently, the

Canada Nunavut Geoscience Office conducted

a bedrock and surface-mapping programme

over a portion of the Hall Peninsula of Baffin

Island. During the course of their fieldwork,

they reported the discovery of a new kimberlite

dyke. In total, three new confirmed kimberlites

have been discovered in 2013, bringing the

total number of kimberlites at Chidliak to 64.

Earlier this year, Peregrine collected a bulk

sample weighing approximately 508 wet tonnes

from the CH-6 kimberlite by surface trenching.

Approximately 470 wet tonnes of this sample

have been transported from Iqaluit, Nunavut

to the De Beers dense media separation facil-

ity in Sudbury, Ontario. Approximately 10 wet

tonnes of kimberlite were processed at the Sas-

katchewan Research Council in July and the ap-

proximately 28 wet tonnes of kimberlite material

that remain in Iqaluit were shipped to Sudbury.

Processing of approximately 250 wet tonnes of

the bulk sample commenced late last month at

De Beers and is expected to yield a heavy min-

eral concentrate weighing approximately 1,8 dry

tonnes. Final diamond recovery from this con-

centrate will be managed by Peregrine.

During this summer programme, De Beers

completed ground geophysical orientation sur-

veys over 12 known kimberlites using gravity,

electromagnetics, ground-penetrating radar and

magnetics. The results from these surveys will

be used to determine the most effective geo-

physical technique for discovering additional

kimberlites in future exploration programmes.

Peregrine’s objective is to utilise results

from the programme, together with geological

and diamond content information acquired

from core drill programmes in 2009, 2010 and

2011, to develop a preliminary revenue model

and establish an initial resource for CH-6. The

remainder of the bulk sample will be processed

at a later date.

Howard Coopersmith, Peregrine’s external

qualified person for sample processing and

diamond recovery, says: “The CH-6 sample

material processed very well and we expect no

processing problems and optimum diamond

liberation.” – Rapaport

SuMMER PROGRAMME DISCOvERS THREE NEW kIMBERLITES AT CHIDLIAk

The Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion

Council (GJEPC) and the Bharat Diamond

Bourse have confirmed their support to the

implementation of the World Diamond Mark

(WDM) programme, to ensure the health

and future growth of the global diamond

jewellery sector. Both organisations re-

affirmed India’s leading role in the industrybybeing thefirst country to

actively endorse the WDM programme. The understanding was reached

following talks in Mumbai between these leading industry organisations

and a delegation of the World Diamond Mark Foundation, headed by World

Diamond Mark Foundation chairman Alex Popov.

“Ifyouwanttodiverttheflowofglobalspendonluxuryintodiamonds,

generic promotion through the World Diamond Mark is the only answer. The

World Diamond Mark will not only unite the players in the diamond pipeline,

but will also provide a sense of confidence among the consumers that the dia-

monds they are buying are legitimate. GJEPC will contribute to the WDM pro-

gramme,subjecttoappropriateapprovals,”saysGJEPCchairmanVipulShah.

“Itmakesallthesenseintheworldtobegintheimplementationofthe

World Diamond Mark programme with the support of the largest player

in the world diamond industry – India. We look forward to working with

our Indian partners to enhance the position of diamonds in the luxury

consumer market and to ensure the health and growth of the industry we

allcherish,”saysPopov.

INDIAN DIAMOND INDuSTRY COMMITS ITS SuPPORT FOR WORLD DIAMOND MARk


The summer edition of the USA and

International Diamond Week in Israel recorded

the busiest week ever experienced on the

trading floor of the Israel Diamond Exchange

(IDE), with more than 1 200 traders, buyers

and sellers crowding the IDE’s trading halls.

The general consensus among IDE members

wasthatatnotimeinthebourse’shistoryhad

the floor held such a huge variety and choice of

diamonds, nor had it seen so many traders on

the bourse floor. Sales reports were generally

positive, with traders dealing in larger stones

doing significant business.

“Fromanorganisationalpointofview,this

FOuR DAYS, 1 200 TRADERS AND uS$2 BILLION OF GOODS ON IDE FLOOR

wasamajoreffort,”IDEgeneralmanagerMoti

Besser noted. “The logistic requirements and

arrangements were huge: screening registered

buyers, finding 600 hotel rooms, receiving,

hosting and getting the visitors into the

buildings, the business-matching breakfasts,

the educational programme, the social events

and, of course, the complicated but airtight

securityarrangements,”Besserexplained.

Marketing itself as the most secure, but also

the most user-friendly diamond exchange in the

world, the IDE has a huge reputation to uphold.

“Weliterallyhadhundredsofadditionalsecurity

officers on call during the USA and International

DiamondWeek,” said Israel Vantsovski, head

of IDE security. “Most of our security team

members were not noticed by the visitors, and

when visitors did encounter a security official,

they were treated with courtesy and given top-

qualityservice,”Vantsovskistated.

“Duringthepastyear,our tradehasexpe-

rienced some daring, well-publicised robberies

of diamonds and jewellery. Of course, at the

IDE, with thousands of people in attendance,

and some US$2 billion worth of goods out in

the open in the trading hall, we had nothing to

worryabout,”Besserconcluded.

With the completion of its exterior, the

International Gem Tower (IGT) has now taken

its place as the number one landmark on

West 47th Street, in Manhattan’s diamond

and jewellery district. Meanwhile, the building

continues to sign up new owners for office

units and IGT’s retail high-end jewellery mall

has surpassed the 80% occupancy rate.

IGT’s sales director Shari Neissani says

London-based Gemfields will be moving its

USA centre of operations to IGT, following a

year-long search for the perfect USA address.

Krainz Creations, the prestigious American

jewellery design and manufacturing company,

has also acquired space and Gulaylar Group,

the Turkish jewellery group that owns the mall

space at IGT, reports that it has secured tenants

for more than 80% of space in the high-

end jewellery mall at the International Gem

Tower. Set to open in the first quarter of 2014,

the shopping premises at IGT will comprise

50 shops as well as a café and Foreign Trade

Zone offices.

Randi Molofsky, USA Director of Market-

ing for Gemfields, says the tower is the right

fit for Gemfields, noting that the office space,

with floor-to-ceiling windows and north-facing

natural light, is the ideal setting to showcase

Gemfield's responsibly-produced coloured gem-

stones.“Andthebuilding’ssecurityandameni-

tiesaresecondtonone.We’reexcitedtocallthe

IGTourhomeinAmerica,”Molofskysays.

Roland Krainz, principal of Krainz Creations,

says the Gem Tower’s modern infrastructure

and security are two of the many factors that

make purchasing a unit at the IGT so attractive.

“Additionally, having recently expanded into

the Asian market, the FTZ status at the building

makesthisamorelucrativeinvestmentforme,”

he explains.

Meanwhile, early adopters, such as the Gem-

ological Institute of America (GIA), have closed

on their space at the International Gem Tower in

July and have started building out their premises.

GIA plans to move its New York gemmological

laboratory to the tower in early 2014.

“We’re pleased to welcome the new

owners,”Extellvice-presidentRaizyHaassays.

“At the same time, the IGT marketing team

continues its efforts to make this building

47th Street’s number one real estate option.

Towards the end of this month, we’ll be at

the Israel Diamond Exchange for a series of

meetingswithfutureowners.”

INTERNATIONAL GEM TOWER ATTRACTS ADDITIONAL TOP-NOTCH JEWELLERY INDuSTRY PLAYERS


JEWELLEx AFRICA 2013

This year’s Jewellex Africa once again offered an environment for business-to-business linkages in the industry that have seen significant successes for existing business growth and the integration of new participants in the industry. Its key mission is to provide a platform that will grow the South African and African jewellery industry.

IT HAS TO BE ACKNOWLEDGED THAT

Jewellex Africa 2013 was low-key in terms of

exhibitors and visitors. However, despite this

there were both a significant number of new

participants and new products at this year’s

show. There was a positive side in that it was

less crowded as far as layout was concerned

and exhibitors were able to spend more quality

time with their clients. “It’s an interesting

dynamic,” commented Doug Sutherland of

SutherlandandGoodman.“It’snotanegative.

Those who were present were serious buyers.

Wehadtoworkmuchharderinbusiertimes.”

Hilary Stern of Metal Concentrators had a

practical reason for the scaled-down show.

“Five years ago there were 22 500 jewellers

in the country. Today there are 870.” She,

too, commented that it was possible to spend

quality time with customers.

In this recessionary time, which has been

aggravated by labour unrest, both factors

which are affecting the mood of the coun-

try and its economy, there were

nevertheless numerous displays

of up-market gold and diamond

jewellery. A newcomer to the

show was AA Dia-

monds, which has

been in business

for 15 years. Its

18ct gold jewels are highlighted by

the inclusion of unique well-cut

and polished coloured diamonds

in beautifully designed settings

which emulate costume jewel-

lery in style, yet in a more desirable

range of precious jewels which are

elegant and affordable.

South African distributors have not yet

completely adopted the current European

craze for rose gold. Most finished jewellery

was in yellow gold, but the range of great

variety from Italian brand Fope presented the

precious metal in yellow, white or rose gold.

Oro Africa, too, offered the choice in its range

of wedding bands from its bridal jewellery

collection in the Absolute range. The Cape

Town manufacturers are now members of the

Responsible Jewellery Council, a worldwide

organisation along similar lines to those of

the Kimberley Process which governs conflict

diamonds from the supply chain through to

finished jewellery, ensuring that gold supplies

used by jewellery manufacturers do not have

an undesirable source.

OneofSouthAfrica’sleadingrefiners,Metal

Concentrators, has long been concerned about

the sourcing of gold, in particular, because of

the association with illegal trading of the pre-

cious metal, as well as with money-laundering,

terrorism, armed conflict and other undesirable

practices. These refiners are also certified mem-

bers of the Responsible Jewellery Council and

uphold its codes of practice. The

organisation currently has 440

members around the world.

For the past few years ster-

ling silver has become an alterna-

tive to gold, not only because of

the lower cost, but also because it

isless“flashy”anddoesnotattract

criminals. A sign of the times was Sil-

plat’sswitchfromthecostlyplatinumto

sterling silver stocks. Its collection included

silver chains. Gemini Gold, although it had a

dazzling display of gold jewels, also opted for

more reasonably priced items such as silver

exhibitors at Jewellex

fancy wedding bands.

Coloured gems are always a popular

item and Intercolour Gems, apart from its

traditional stones had a special item

on offer – that of lavender-coloured

moonstones which are the newest gem

in its stable. Other interesting items

were perfectly matched in cut and

colour pairs of sky topaz and

Swiss topaz stones suitable

for earrings, of which it

carries a large stock

At the uppermost end

of the gem market must surely have

been the fabulous collection of emeralds

at Gemfields, a company which is also con-

cerned about the ethics pertaining to precious

stones. With its roots in Africa, Gemfields

New products, new


JEWELLEx AFRICA 2013

sources its supplies from Zambia and Mo-

zambique and among those at the show

was a fabulous collection of emeralds,

large and small. In fact, a member of

the manufacturing sector, Andrew

Stephens, was amazed at their quality

and said that he had not had supplies

of this product locally for some time.

In fact, so impressive was the display

of these gems that Gemfields was

awarded a special mention by the

judges of the Best Stand on Show.

The judging of the Best Stand was

simplified by the fact that most exhibitors had

opted for fairly simple stands. Judges were Ivan

Hayden, Andrew Stephens and Alice Weil and

they awarded this title to Nomination, as they

considered this display best fulfilled the criteria.

These were theme, impact, lighting, product

display and international association.

An attractive stand was first-time exhibi-

tor Browns, which concentrated on the im-

age of the company related to its products.

Larry Brown said it had a five-year goal which

it had now achieved. This was to source 95%

of its items for its branches from its workshop

in Blairgowrie and it was aiming at the next

ten. Students from schools

were taken in ten at a time

and trained. “We trained

twosetters last year,”Brown

said. This project is to change

South Africa from an importer

of jewellery to an exporter.

“If we manage to do that,

we hope to create another

400 jobs in this country,” he

said. Browns recently opened

its first store in London and it hopes to open a

secondinNovember.“Wearetryingtocreate

a jewellery brand, as opposed to being just a

manufacturer,”Brownexplainedasthereason

for participating at Jewellex.

An importer of fine jewellery is Spectra

Wholesalers, which has been exhibiting at Jew-

ellex since 2003. Owner Jimmy Taylor would

like to see the show running for four days. He

also commented on the changed profile of the

people exhibiting. He approved the stricter

controlofentrantstotheshow:“Withtighter

entrance control, we are seeing more of the

peoplewewanttosee,”heobserved.Hebe-

lieves there is still a market for gold jewellery,

despite the prevalence of silver on display.

“ampMonaco” isa“newbaby” insterling

silver imported from the south of France which

is marketed by Bassano Gioelli. It, too, showed

a small collection of jewels in 9ct white and yel-

low gold. The company has opened up 60 new

stores in the last year, said Davide Chaminello.

The products are chic, glamorous and all

about a lifestyle associated with the Medi-

terranean principality.

Among the watch companies exhibit-

ing was American brand Nixon, which hails

from the San Diego vicinity of

California and focuses on sport,

music and fashion. It has a 15-

year history and has been on the

South African market since 2007

and its products are now in 100

doors. This was its third participa-

tion at Jewellex, said brand manager

MickeyLindsay,whobelieves thataperson’s

choice of a watch is an expression of his or her

identity. These are affordable watches with

Swiss-made or Japanese Myota movements,

of which a few are mechanical, the majority

quartz. Some have Swarovski crystals and all

are mounted on genuine leather straps. Three

colours of plated gold are available – yellow,

pink and champagne and combinations of

steel and acetate.

This was the first participation of

Swiss brand Bell & Ross. Collections are

categorised as Vintage, Aviation and Marine.

Manufacturing facilities are

in La Chaux-de-Fonds in the

Swiss Jura mountains. The

brand was brought to South

Africa by the Bellagio Group

in 2009 as a product of its

distribution company and,

like most of its timepieces,

is in the upper price bracket.

The brand idea was always

simple – functions, shapes

and form – and they are easy to identify, with

mechanical and automatic movements.

Maehler Trading featured a new product

from Denmark which attracted considerable at-

tention. The concept for Bering watches arose

following a Danish adventurer's experience in

the Arctic five years ago where he was capti-

vated by the splendour and beauty of its land-

scape. And so a new watch brand was born. It

takes its name from the Bering Straits, so-

called in honour of Danish sailor Vitus

Bering who explored the virtually

unknown area in 1728. The Ber-

ing watch brand is a timekeep-

ing version of the impression the

Arctic scenery made on Danish

businessman René Kaserskov in

2008 – cool and beautiful. The

watches are in stainless steel,

ceramic, some PVD gold-

plated, with quartz move-

ments, others with carbon fibre elements

on the dial, some with a mesh strap, all

with exquisite details.

Maehler Trading also launched an

internationally known jewellery product

– the Spanish-made Majorica pearls,

which are the only organic pearl

range in the world. And a third

new product was an attractive

range of clocks, one of which

was a bedside version that

included a radio.

Citizen is renowned for its

cutting-edge technology and its

newest Promaster Eco-Drive Satellite Wave-Air

model takes a step into the future. It engages

satellite atomic clocks of the closest orbiting

satellite and will be available in South Africa

in October. The satellite time-keeping system

beams down from about 20 000 km above the

earth directly to the watch. This avant-garde

timepiece is set in a titanium case (Citizen was

the first brand to use this material for a watch

case in 1970) and functions wherever the

wearer is – on land, sea or air – and the system

adjusts the time accordingly. It has a sapphire

glass, is water-resistant to 20 bars and never

needs a battery because of its light-harnessing

technology.

JP Time launched a new fashion brand

named Locman which is made in Italy with

headquarters on the Isle of Elba. A special

design has an internationally patented, inter-

changeable system which enables the wearer to

change the strap with one swift movement by

slipping it in and out of a slot at the back of the

sturdy steel case. It works like a belt loop. This

modelisaptlynamed“Change”.Itenablesthe

wearer to choose a different colour to match a

specific outfit or one of a different material to

suit a given situation easily and speedily.

It is a trend that local and international

exhibitions are shrinking because of the econ-

omy’sdownturn.Despite its reduction insize,

the fair’s layout met with approval, as did

the quality of visitors, the latter due to the or-

ganisers' continuing efforts. “Exhibitors will

always invitetheirfriends,”commentedLorna

Lloyd, CEO of the Jewellery Council, or-

ganisersoftheshow.“Exhibitors

reportedgoodbusiness.”

The council intends inves-

tigating alternative venues for

2014, taking into consideration

cost, availability and accessibility,

with Montecasino and Emperors

Palace in Johannesburg as pos-

sibilities. Exhibitors will be con-

sulted in the final decision.


BRAND HISTORY

In the world of Haute Horlogerie, Patek Philippe is considered by watch experts and aficionados to be one of the most prestigious. Like a number of other Swiss manufacturers, the company produces mostly mechanical movements of the automatic and manually wound varieties. With headquarters in Geneva and facilities in the vallée de Joux, both the homes of Haute Horlogerie manufacturers, the brand has an impressive history.

A POLISH WATCHMAKER, ANTONI PATEK,

began making pocket watches in Geneva in

1839, together with his fellow Polish migrant,

Franciszek Czapek. However, five years later

they parted company and Patek was joined by a

French watchmaker, Adrien Philippe, who was

the inventor of the keyless winding mechanism

(until that time all pocket watches required a

key in order to wind the movement). And so, in

1851, Patek Philippe was founded.

Shortly thereafter the brand added

European moguls to its clientele. Among the

first of these was Queen Victoria of England

and her consort, Prince Albert. Victoria

acquired a key-wound Patek Philippe created

in pendant style which was made during the

1851 Great Exhibition of London. In addition,

she acquired a Patek Philippe timepiece which

was worn pinned to her clothing, suspended

from a diamond and enamelled brooch.

The brand’s owners include Christian IX

and Princess Louise, the king and queen of

Denmark, who were among their royal clients,

as well as Victor Emanuel III, the king of Italy

and the Duke of Savoy and Hussein Kamel, the

Sultan of Egypt from 1914-1918.

Apart from being a prestigious brand, Patel

Philippe is also among the pioneers of the

industry. Its innovations include the perpetual

calendar, split-second hands, the chronograph

and minute repeater watches. Among these

was a gents’ quartzCalatrava circa 1999 – a

design which still ranks as among the most

iconic creations of Patek Philippe. This one was

in yellow gold with second hand and date.

One of the most complicated mechanical

watches ever made was created by the brand

in1989 for thecompany’s150thanniversary.

This was the Calibre 89, which holds 39

complications including the date of Easter, time

of sunrise, equation of time, sidereal time, a

2 800-star chart and many more features. This

Calibre is also able to add a date to February for

leap years, while leaving out the extra day for

every100years’interval.

The brand's timepieces achieve high prices

at auctions worldwide, at which the themes

play a large part in driving the demand for

these by collectors, as well as for the addition

tothebrand’sMuseuminGeneva.In2008,a

Sky Moon Tourbillon in platinum became the

world’s most expensive modern wristwatch

when itwas soldbySotheby’s inHongKong

for US$41,49 million.

In May 2010, a Patek Philippe wristwatch

produced in 1943 became the most expensive

one to be sold at auction. It was sold to a Swiss

museum through Christie’s Geneva for 6,26

million Swiss francs. In a yellow gold case, this

chronograph has a perpetual calendar and

moonphase display. The most expensive to

be sold on auction online for €471 000, also

in yellow gold with the same complications

produced in 1953, was sold through Auctionata

in Berlin this year.

Patek Philippe’s advanced research de-

partment has been exploring the possibilities

of introducing new materials to mechanical

watches. For example, in 2005 the company in-

troduced the Silicon escapement wheel to the

industry. The vast range of modern materials

offers many alternatives.

The company has been owned by the

Stern family since 1932 and leading it since

2002 have been Philippe Stern and his son,

Thiery, who took over as president from his

father three years ago. In 2010 Patek Philippe

produced 40 000 watches, which increased to

50 000 in 2012.

Calatrava is among Patek Philippe’smost

iconic creations. The first model was launched

in 1932, the year the Stern family acquired the

company.Itisanofficer’sstyletimepiecewith

a dust cover on the case-back and a special

hinge on the inside of this cover. This is a new

development – a special mechanism which was

developed and introduced by Patek Philippe

in 1952. Both case and mechanism were

developed and produced in-house. The dust

cover is suitable for engraving to personalise

and customise the watch.

“As a family-ownedwatch company, new

designs are born after deliberations involving

a closely-knit team, at the heart of which our

familyhasbeenforthepastfourgenerations,”

says Thiery Stern. “As an independent com-

pany, we can make all our own decisions on

the grounds of design and taste, rather than

acceding to commercial pressures. What we

are known for is taking great pride in keeping

traditional skills and know-how alive. It is para-

mount for us to know that our designs also use

the most advanced technologies for us to deliv-

eraperfectfinishtechnicallyandaesthetically.”

In the latest Calatrava model, the case-

back has a sapphire crystal window to reveal

the self-winding calibre with a large four-

arm Gyromax balance with Spiromax balance

spring which beats at a frequency of 28 800

semi-oscillations per hour. This ensures the

rare accuracy specified by the Patek Philippe

seal – a tolerance range of -3 to +2 seconds

per day.

A passion for perfection


IIJW, THE FOURTH SINCE ITS INCEPTION IN

2010, captured the imagination of all who

attended. Stars and a social cause marked the

beginning of the IIJW. Miss India International

2011, Ankita Shorey, walked for the Beti show,

an initiative for women's empowerment by

Anu Ranjan, supported by Gitanjali. The

ramp displays featured both Western and

local Indian jewellery, while the clothing and

stage productions dazzled. As always, the

“A” list of Bollywood celebrities attended,

including Vidyut Jammwal, Shamila Tagore

and Karishma Kapoor.

ThePrishacollectioncalled“HighonLife”

featured a line of fusion contemporary pieces

incorporating the latest trends in jewellery

fashion. It combined the beauty of shimmering

gold with diamonds and coloured gemstones.

The glamorous Madhura Naik was seen on the

ramp wearing a gold kundan necklace with

a pearl pendant and pear-shaped earrings.

During the closing ceremony after the “Best

of the Best” show, Sanjay Kothari, the

convenor and founding partner of the event,

paid homage to all who helped make it one

of the top social happenings in Mumbai and

INTERNATIONAL FAIR

The Indian International Jewellery Week (IIJW) and India International Jewellery Show (IIJS), like all their previous editions, once again delivered great trade and business opportunities in the jewellery and diamond segment.

IIJW and IIJS 2013 live up to reputation

thanked the companies and people who have

supported it since its inception.

The Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion

Council (GJEPC) launched the 30th edition of IIJS

at the Bombay Exhibition Centre in Goregaon

– the paramount show for the trade in Asia.

The show was held from 8-12 August and had

participation from 860 companies from India and

overseas. The chief guest, the Honourable Chief

Minister of Maharashtra, Shri Prithviraj Chavan,

guest of honour, Tlali Khasu, Minister of Mines

from Kingdom of Lesotho, along with Vipul

Shah, chairman of GJEPC and Pankaj Parekh,

vice-chairman of GJEPC, inaugurated the show

through a lamp-lighting ceremony followed by

a guided tour of the show area. The event was

also attended by distinguished members of the

gem and jewellery industry, GJEPC officials and

other VIPs and dignitaries.

The current account deficit in India and the

40% decline in exports from the country have

placed a damper on the jewellery industry,

which also saw a decline of 16,55% in jewellery

exports. However, in typical Indian tradition, a

longer-term view is taken and the industry is

positioning itself for future growth when the

economy picks up. India remains the third-

largest jewellery market in the world after the

USA and China, with a US$30,1 billion domestic

market and a US$40 billion export market.

Indian gold jewellery exports declined by

61% for the first quarter in 2013 compared

with 2012. In the same period it saw an

increase of 43% in the exports of cut and

polished diamonds. On the import side for the

first quarter, there was an increase of 44,5%

in rough diamonds and a decline of 48,8% in

raw gold.

Chavan, at the opening ceremony, said:

“It is my pleasure to inaugurate Asia’s

second-largest gem and jewellery show in

Mumbai. The state of Maharashtra is one

of the most progressive and industrialised

states in the country; my government has

always endeavoured to promote the gem

and jewellery sector in diamond-cutting

and design. Mumbai offers world-class

infrastructure facilities, be it international

airport or intercity connectivity which is key

togrowthanddevelopmentofanyindustry.”

Also speaking at the inauguration, Shah said

many expectations ride on this year’s show.

“Theindustryhasbeenundergoingsomevery

difficult times. While we are aware that the

challenges can be testing, the current low gold

prices are conducive to buying activity which

we anticipate during the show. Considering the

festive season ahead as well, we look forward

totheIIJSgeneratingbusiness.”


INTERNATIONAL FAIR

IIJW and IIJS 2013 live up to reputation

India remains the third-largest jewellery market in the world after the USA and China, with a US$30,1 billion domestic market and a US$40 billion export market.

The five-day show saw many delegations

from across India and a host of international

destinations such as Bangladesh, China, Dubai,

Hungary, Iran, Myanmar, Nepal, Azerbaijan,

Russia, the UK, Australia, Thailand and more.

Thisyear’sparticipationincludedpavilionsfrom

Thailand, Belgium, Israel, Turkey, Italy and the

UAE. The 30 000 visitors, both international and

Indian,visitedtheshowin2013.Asia’spremier

jewellery show had on display the widest range

of gems and jewels, covering categories like

studded jewellery, diamonds and gemstones,

gold and silver jewellery,

couture and machinery.

The show, like all its

previous editions, lived

up to its reputation in delivering greater trade

and business opportunities in the jewellery

and diamond segment of this key sector of the

Indian economy.

One of the highlights of this year’s event

was the Multi-Mezzanine concept. The pilot

project was introduced last year with a

view to accommodating the grow-

ing number of participants. Fol-

lowing the successful launch of

the concept, these stalls have

been designed and constructed

in a manner that enables multiple

companies to exhibit within the

same floor space; a welcome solution

to the space limitation that the show has

been facing.

“OvertheyearsIIJShasturnedintoaGoli-

ath of an event, witnessing such unsurpassed

demand that each year, we have had a long list

of SMEs, new participants as well as smaller

jewellery businesseswanting to participate,”

said Haresh Zaveri, Convener Exhibitions (Na-

tional) forGJEPC.“Inordertoaccommodate

the growing requests, GJEPC has been work-

ing keenly on reorganising the entire floor

plan of the IIJS. The growing popularity com-

pels the council to work even harder and we

are constantly exploring ways and means by

which improvements and developments can

bebroughtabout.”

Other important additions included adopt-

ing Go Green Energy Saving Solutions, in

order to reduce costs, energy consumption

and CO2 emissions, and the introduction of

the unique IIJS-Rapnet Diamond Kiosk facil-

ity in the loose stones section, which had the

listing of the stock and prices of all the dia-

mond exhibitors at the fair to enable visitors

to check and identify their potential suppliers.

The educational element included knowledge

seminars that covered topics on the latest

developments in the gem and jewellery in-

dustry, in addition to updates on man-made

diamonds and treatments, skills development,

Indian jewellery trends and more. Several oth-

er value-added features have also been up-

graded to improve the entire show experience

for all stakeholders.

During IIJS, the WFDB had a delegation under

the leadership of Alex Popov visit Mumbai to

discuss the involvement of the Bharat Diamond

Bourse and the GJEPC in the development of

the World Diamond Mark. During this visit, both

organisations committed themselves to this

strategy and also committed substantial funds

to assist with the establishment and

development of the mark.

Promoted at the show this

year was the GJEPC’s 40th

Annual Awards, which will only

take place later this month. The

awards recognise the best in

the jewellery business and have

over the years been responsible

for launching both careers and products.

This year organisers decided to expand on the

concept and introduced new categories, such

as “Most Socially Responsible Company”,

“Most innovative Company”, “BestWoman

Entrepreneur” and “Best Exporter”. These

awards are highly sought after as they

provide platforms and access to financing,

visibility and wide media coverage.


BRAND MANAGEMENT

A new watch taking the Bell & Ross style back to the futureEversinceitwasfounded,Bell&Rosshasmade

aviation – and, more specifically, aeronautical

instrumentation – one of its main sources

of inspiration, both in terms of design and

technology. This new watch represents the

convergenceof all the values of Bell&Ross.

Vintage in style, the new BR 126 Blackbird

stands out as decidedly modern with its

advanced technology and high-quality finish.

Offering a Flyback function characteristic of

the very best aviation chronographs, it pays

tributetotheLockheedSR-71“Blackbird”,the

legendary American plane.

The Lockheed SR-71 “Blackbird” – devel-

oped from 1962 and in service until 1998 –

carried out photo-reconnaissance missions for

the USA's Air Force throughout the Cold

War. Although details of its missions re-

main a military secret, we know that

the American spy plane managed to

photograph all the most sensitive

sites in the former USSR. Its out-

standing performance and futur-

istic appearance give the SR-71

Blackbird a definitive role in the

annals of aviation.

Likeitsnamesake,theBell&Ross

BR 126 Blackbird is matte black in

colour, giving more prominence to the

crucial indications displayed in orange.

In unveiling this watch, Bell & Ross

infuses its Vintage collection with an

element of modernity. Its round case,

the soft lines of its strap fastenings and

the curve of its glass instantly identify

the BR 126 Blackbird as belonging to

theBell&RossVintagecollection.

However, its materials and its

Flyback automatic chronograph

movement incorporate the latest

technological advances to offer

ultra-modern functions promoting

legibility and precision. The quality

of the steel case (category 316 L,

indicating a very high level of solidity

and resistance to oxidation), its matte

black PVD finish, its 43 mm diameter, its

sapphire crystal and its water-resistance

to 100 m make it a modern watch in

step with its time.

The Flyback complication was

developed for aircraft pilots be-

fore the Second World War. It

allowed them to instantly stop

and restart their chronograph

on receipt of radio or visual signals

indicating the moment to change

course or release bombs. Unlike stand-

ard chronographs, requiring successive

pressing of buttons to stop, reset and

restart the stopwatch function, the Fly-

back system allows the stopwatch to be

stopped and restarted in a single move-

ment. This makes it the best instrument

for calculating short time periods.

Since legibility of on-board

instruments is vital in aeronaut-

ics, two colours are prevalent

in cockpits: matte black for its

anti-reflective properties and

white for its extreme legibility.

Orange – reserved for essential

information – also has an important

presence and, having always featured

on thedialsof theBell&RossVintage

collection, has become emblematic of

the brand. In order to promote the most im-

portant information, a touch of orange makes

all the indications linked to the chronograph

function stand out in contrast against the

matte black.

To further enhance the watch’s legibility,

thechronograph’scentralminuteandsecond

functions are displayed across the full width

of the dial.

The Vintage BR 126 Blackbird also provides

an instant reading of the time being measured

via the central display of the chronograph’s

minutes and seconds.

Orion Jewellery Welders now in South Africa Launched at Jewellex Africa this year for

the first time ever in South Africa was Orion

JewelleryWelders.OndisplayattheLipman&

Son booth, the three models were personally

demonstrated by Jonathan Young, CEO of

Orion Jewellery Welders in Utah, USA.

“Orion Jewellery Welders offers high-

tech, affordable solutions where, until now,

onlylaserweldingwaspossible,”explainsIan

LipmanofLipman&Son,whichistheofficial

distributor and service agent for the brand

locally. “These machines utilise state-of-the-

art hard- and software to deliver versatile

micro pulse-arc welding systems (the 150s

and 150i models have the tack feature too).

All models offer user-friendly touch-screen

display and control, with on-board tutorials

to guide the operator through applications

ranging from complex assemblies to claw

tippingandmanymoreinbetween.”

These welders work with any metal or

combination of metals – even those which

are complicated to handle, such as copper,

titanium and silver.


BRAND MANAGEMENT

jewels and a 40-hour power reserve. This is a

brand which has produced over 100 movements

since its establishment in 1853. This version is

inspired by the legendary pilot watches. Besides

its classic round case in 18ct rose gold, the silver-

toned dial is presented in a more contemporary

fashion with shades of rose gold delicately

highlighting the hour markers and hands.

This classic model relies on simplicity,

elegance and refinement in the

pure tradition of horology. The

hour markers and numerals are

plated in rose gold. Functions

are hours, minutes and small

seconds. It has a sapphire

crystal on front and back.

Rose gold PVD on stainless

steel with polished treatment is

featured onGc’s Femmemodel,which

has a quartz movement and a chic chronograph

function added to its hours, minutes, seconds,

and date functions. It is water-resistant to 100

m. The dial is mother-of-pearl in a rose gold

shade.The30-minutecounter isat9o’clock,

1/10th-secondat6o’clockand small seconds

at3o’clock,withthedatewindowat4o’clock.

The bracelet, too, is stainless steel with rose

gold PVD treatment. The watch has two push-

ers and a folding clasp on the bracelet.

If any metal for watch cases could be

said to rival stainless steel, rose gold

is currently the one. Depending on

the type of timepiece, this could be

either 18ct gold or PVD plating.

A flyback chronograph by

Breguet Type XXII, for example,

of which the second hand sweeps

the dial in 30 seconds, is set in a 44

mm case of 18ct rose gold which has

a fluted caseband. The bi-directional

rotating bezel has a 60-minute scale.

The mechanical automatic movement has

27 jewels and vibrates at 72 000 vibrations,

has a 40-hour power reserve and functions

for hours, minutes, seconds, date, the flyback

chronograph(1/2minute)andahigh-frequency

silicon escapement and balance spring.

Thereisasecondtimezoneat6o’clock.

Dubey&Schaldenbrandisclearlya

watch for cognoscenti looking for an

exclusive timepiece. It has a su-

perb mechanical movement. The

brand's Grand DT Rose Gold has

a tonneau-shaped timepiece

37 x 52 mm in an 18ct

rose gold case which

has a cambered sap-

phire crystal. This has

25 jewels and vibrates at

28 800 vibrations, has a

48-hour power reserve,

a decorated oscillating weight

and blued screws. Functions

are hours, minutes, day, central

date hand, month (and day) discs) at 12

o’clock, moon-phase and chronograph. The

sapphire crystal and back have anti-reflective

coating on both sides. The dial is silver-toned

with a chequered guilloche and sunray finish.

The watch is water-resistant to 50 m and is set

on a brown alligator strap with matching 18ct

rose gold buckle. Other versions are bi-metallic

18ct rose gold and steel.

The Revue Thommen Classical 82 Round

model is a hand-wound calibre which has 17

A rosy outlook

Italian brand opts for fashion coloursItalian luxury goods company Salvatore Ferrag-

amo is no newcomer to the watch market. The

watch brand was first launched at Baselworld

and has been a regular exhibitor ever since.

Salvatore Ferragamo was Italian-born but

emigrated to the USA in the early 1900s. In

1927 he set up shops for his leather goods,

but returned to his hometown of Florence, the

brand’sheadquarterstothisday.Thecompany

is run by his descendants.

At Baselworld 2013, purple was one of

the hottest colours. The brand features this

with dove grey in a ladies' model available in

two versions, both of which had a sparkling

diamond at the centre of the guilloche taupe

mother-of-pearl dial. The IP rose gold model

rotating top ring is studded with 25 smoky

quartztopazcrystalsstartingat4o’clock.This

is mounted on a grey lizard-print leather strap,

its colour co-ordinated with the colour of the

gemstones. In the shaped steel case version

it is adorned with purple topaz. This version

has a small charm hanging from the centre.

The movements are Swiss-made Ronda quartz

water-resistant to 3 ATM.

Twomodelssignifyingacouple’sunityare

the Vega 32 mm and 38 mm case of stainless

steel with IP gold finish. The case and bracelet

are entirely of stainless steel, the bezel and

central bracelet links in IP rose gold. The dial

is silver with guilloche finish and the watch is

water-resistant to 5 ATM.

Drawing inspiration from the spring and

summer, the new version of the Ferragamo

1898 POP design makes use of bright colours

of lime yellow, turquoise and bright red

enamel on the dial. This Swiss-made quartz

chronograph offers a veritable explosion of

colour that sets it apart from the contemporary

classic line of the same name.

The bangle bracelet is popular among

young women and this extremely feminine

design inspired the Gancino bracelet, which

made its début at Baselworld this year. This

is a cocktail watch for exclusive occasions.

Its outstanding features are the

small 22,5 mm diameter case

of IP rose gold – or steel – and

the polished matching bangle

bracelet which wraps around the

wrist, following its contours. The

dial is silver with guilloche finish

and applied indexes. This, too, has a Swiss-

made Ronda quartz movement.

A masculine design is the Ferragamo 1898

Slim Ceramic, of which the 41 mm diameter

case is of high-tech ceramic material ensuring

lightness and comfort on the wrist. This

is of minimalist design and well-balanced

proportions and is a mere 6,1 mm thick. The

Gancino-shaped case – a feature of the brand

– encloses a vertical pattern guilloche dial

and the watch is mounted on a leather strap

with calfskin lining. This model has a total

black look with rose gold finishing and is also

available in dark brown polished ceramic.


BRAND MANAGEMENT

Titan wins Best Product Design of the Year – Watches and JewelleryThe iconic Edge watch from Titan Industries

Limitedhasbaggedthe“BestProductDesign

of theYear –Watches and Jewellery” at the

Red Dot Design Awards 2013. This is the

second win for this unique range, which

bagged its first Red Dot award back in 2002.

products. This award sets a milestone for all

our team members and proves our endeavour

togiveourconsumersnothingbutthebest.”

The Red Dot Design Museum in Singapore

is the only one of its kind in Asia. Housed in

the iconic red dot traffic building – a former

Singapore Traffic Police Headquarters built

during Singapore’s pre-independence British

colonial era, brushed in a bright coat of red –

the museum is a refreshing dose of creativity

inthecentreofSingapore’sbusinessdistrict.

The award-winning watch will also be

showcased in the Red Dot Design Museum

in Germany.

“Titan Edge is the quintessence of

contemporarytimepieces,”saysthecompany

about this timepiece. At a mere 1,15 mm thin,

the Edge movement is the slimmest quartz

movement in the world. The winning watch

is a part of the latest range of Edge watches,

called the Skeletal Edge. These watches

redefine the coming together of slimness

and symmetry. It has unique features like the

case-in-case concept, offset dial and sapphire

crystal on top and bottom. Golf leather straps

with coloured inner lining and a double

deployment buckle with pushers add to the

modern design element of the range.

Mahendra Chauhan, design manager for

Titan Industries, received the coveted

trophy for the Edge skeletal watch that he

conceptualised along with the in-house design

at Titan. This watch will now be showcased

at the Red Dot Museum in Singapore and

Germany in a special open concept display for

the next 12 months.

The Red Dot Design Award is an inter-

national product design prize awarded by

the Design Zentrum Nordrhein Westfalen in

Essen, Germany and receives more than 11

000 submissions from 61 countries.

Peter Zec, initiator of the Red Dot Design

Award and president of the International

Council of Societies of Industrial Design,

presented the award to Chauhan who said:

“It is a proud moment for Titan to have

won the award in the lifestyle category.

The RedDot award is a testament to Titan’s

constant innovation in the field of design and

technology. We will continue to push our

limits and boundaries in creating exquisite

In touch with technologyA watch which was first created for its

centenary in 1953 by Tissot has now been

updatedwithnew technology for thebrand’s

160th anniversary.

The Tissot Heritage Navigator indicates a

multitude of tine zones simply by setting the

timepiece to a chosen capital – any one of 24

– and the corresponding time zone is shown

by the numbers engraved on the bezel. This is

a COSC-certified automatic chronometer and

the brand’smantra is “traditionwith a touch

ofinnovation”,ofwhichTissothasalonglist.

The company was founded in 1853 by

Charles-Felicien Tissot and his son Charles-

Emile in the Swiss town of Le Locle in the Jura

Mountains, with the introduction of the first

mass-produced pocket watches. It was also

the first watch with two time zones. They were

responsible for producing the first anti-mag-

neticwatchin1929/1930.Tissotwasalsothe

first company to make watches out of plastic,

the alpine granite rock watch, the first pearl

watch of mother-of-pearl and the wooden

watch in 1988.

The brand merged with the Omega

watchmaking family in 1930 and Tissot-Omega

watches from this era are sought after by

collectors.Tissot’sparentcompany,theSwatch

Group, is a mid-range brand, the official

timekeeper for the world championships of

cycling, motorcycling and ice hockey. The brand

has also been named the official timekeeper

for the Asian Games of 2014 – which will be

its fourth time, since it played the same role in

1998, 2002 and 2006. Its first engagement as

official timekeeper was in 1938, when it was

responsible for timing a series of ski races near

the Tissot hometown. Today Tissot operates in

tandem with various sporting bodies to produce

even more accurate timing for specific events.

Oneofthebrand’srecentmodelswhichhas

gained renown is the Tissot T-Touch, a tactile

watch of which the touch-sensitive sapphire

glass includes a compass, barometer, altimeter

and thermometer. This model has been

featuredonAngelinaJolie’swristinthemovies

Lara Croft Tomb Raider and Mr and Mrs Smith.

The movement of the Heritage Navigator

10th Anniversary watch has functions for hours,

minutes, seconds and the aforementioned 24

time zones. The timepiece is set in a 43 mm

case of stainless steel, has a cambered scratch-

resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective

coating on both sides, while the sapphire crystal

case-back is engraved and numbered. The dial

is silvered or anthracite with the 24 capital cities

on the central disc. The applied 24-hour time

zone ring is on the inner bezel. The watch is

mounted on a black or brown leather strap

with folding clasp.

A host of famous people have owned Tissot

watches over the years, dating as far back as

actress Sarah Bernhardt, movie star Carmen

Miranda, rocker Elvis Presley, the late Princess

Grace of Monaco, James Stewart in the film

Rear Window and our own former President

Nelson Mandela.


MARKETPLACE

Heraeus S.A. (Pty) Ltd.29 Atlas Road, Anderbolt, Boksburg.P.O Box 6089, Dunswart,1508 Phone: +27 (0)11 841 1903, Fax: +27 (0)86 564 [email protected]

Tel: (012) 326 8348/328 5996 Fax: (012) 325 7079E-mail: [email protected] www.smwatch.co.za

Send your email address to [email protected] with “Biz-News” in the subject line, or contact us on 011 883 4627.


MARKETPLACE


LITTLE GEMS

Botha who suggested that it be presented to

King Edward VII as a token of loyalty by the

people of the Transvaal to the British throne –

this in the aftermath of the Boer War. By a quirk

of fate, it was Winston Churchill who persuaded

the King to accept the gift (Churchill had been in

South Africa as a war correspondent and was in

time presented with a replica of the diamond).

Its immense value presented a potential

security problem in the act of physically trans-

porting it to England. With due ceremony, a

diversionary tactic was employed using a fake

stone and the original was sent to England in

a plain box by parcel post. It then travelled to

Sandringham by train, accompanied by two

experienced Scotland Yard policemen, where

the diamond was presented to the King on

his birthday. He assured all that this unique

gift would be preserved among the historic

jewels which form the heirlooms of the British

crown. When one thinks of this diamond, it is

usually associated with the stone set in the Brit-

ish Royal Crown.

The rough was cut into nine stones – seven

major gems and 96 smaller stones. Cullinan I,

which is a pear shape of 530,2ct, is also known

as the great Star of Africa. It became a feature

in the Sceptre with the Cross. Cullinan II is the

Second Star of Africa at 317,4ct, a rectangular

cushion shape which was set in the front of the

Imperial State Crown. Cullinan III is also pear-

cut and of 84,4ct. King George V made it the

surmounting cross of her newly acquired crown

for his consort, Queen Mary.

Cullinan IV is square, cushion-cut and

weighs 63,6ct. It was also set in the crown of

Queen Mary and is worn by Queen Elizabeth

II, these two diamonds known by her as

“Granny’s Chips”. She has worn it a number

of times during her reign. Cullinan V is heart-

shaped and of 128,8ct, set to form part of a

stomacher of the diamond and emerald Delhi

Durban parure. It has a large number of smaller

stones set around it. This piece, too, has been

worn a number of times as a brooch by Queen

Elizabeth II. The 8,8ct Cullinan VII is marquise-

cut and forms part of the above-mentioned

stomacher hanging from the brooch, while

Cullinan VIII together with Cullinan VIII is also

incorporated into the Delhi Durban brooch.

The final large gem to be cut from the rough

is Cullinan IX, also pear-shaped, of 4,4ct and

set in a ring.

The Great Star of Africa is currently

displayed in the Tower of London, along with

the other Crown Jewels. It has 74 facets. It took

six months of brainstorming to discuss how to

break it down and was cut by Joseph Asscher

of Amsterdam. Thomas Cullinan was knighted

by King George V and died in 1936, aged 74.

Alice Weil delves into the history of one of the world’s most famous diamond – and coincidentally the largest one in the world – the Cullinan Diamond.

THOMAS CULLINAN, BORN IN THE CAPE

Colony, had moved first to Barberton aged 22,

then to Johannesburg in 1884 where he found

work as a bricklayer. With his accumulated

savings from this humble pursuit, he moved

to the up-and-coming residential suburb

of Parktown frequented by the group of

industrial barons known as the Randlords, who

formed the foundation of the future city of

Johannesburg in the late 19th century.

In 1898 Cullinan had discovered the Premier

minefields, close to Pretoria, which lay some

distance from the existing diamond fields. He

located the source through a diamond which

had been found lying near a fence on a farm

in alluvial soil. Perhaps it was washed down

from some higher diamond-bearing geological

position, maybe from a nearby koppie with a

diamond-bearing blue ground pipe.

The land belonged to a farmer who refused

Cullinan’s offer to purchase, but he was able

todosoafterthefarmer’sdeath,buyingitfor

£52 000 from the daughter who had inherited it.

The Premier Mine proved to be one of the most

productive diamond mines and it was the super-

intendent, Frederick Wells, who – on one of his

daily inspections – found a large stone in January

1905 after seeing a flash of light reflected by the

sun on the wall of the shaft. At first he thought

it was s shard of glass placed by some miners as

a practical joke, but closer inspection revealed a

partially exposed crystal which he managed to

release using his pocket knife.

The diamond was twice as large as any other

previously found. It was analysed and found

to weigh 3 106ct and immediately named

after the owner of the mine, Cullinan. It was

of remarkable clarity, but had a black split in

the middle. The colours around this black spot

were very vivid and altered as the stone was

turned around, which was decreed to emanate

from internal strain – a feature not uncommon

in diamonds. As one part of the diamond was

smooth, it was deduced that the stone had

originally been part of a much larger diamond

that had been broken up by natural forces.

Wells was awarded £3 500 for his find and

the diamond was purchased by the Transvaal

government for £150 000 but insured for 10

times that amount. It was Prime Minister Louis

A diamond fit for royalty

sajn - oct 2013

Documents

jewellex5sa jewellery

south africa branch

maud errera email

bhupal potdar email

andrew meyer email

imraan mahomed email

reputationsa diamond

royaltynew products