sajn march 2016
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SAJN March 2016TRANSCRIPT
Corporate Social Responsibility strategies for
jewellery industry come under spotlight
SOUTH AFRICAN JEWELLERY NEWS
The industry's only trade journal
MA
RC
H 2
016
R36,00 (incl VAT)
SIHH Geneva – first releases for 2016 from the high horology maisons
PPC Imaginarium Awards category
winners announced
CALL TO ENTRY FOR 2016/2017
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the BOLt-68 cOLLectiOn incLudes the chain and medaLLiOnfOr turning yOur excLusive timepiece intO a disruptive pOcket watch
WWW.BOMBERG.CH • FOLLOW us
BOLt-68 gamBLer macau swiss made
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SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2016
STRAP
13. AWARDSPPC Imaginarium Awards category winners announced
21. BRAND HISTORYA happy innovation
15. DIAMONDSAddressing the diamond industry’s global crisis: AWDC to focus on financial innovation
19. CORPORATE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITYCorporate social responsibility strategies for jewellery industry come under the spotlight at VicenzaOro
16. INTERNATIONAL FAIRSIHH Geneva – first releases for 2016 from the Haute Horlogerie maisons
The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2016. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.
Official Journal of the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa. Website: www.jewellery.org.za
Banking Details: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC Bank: Standard Bank, Sandton, South Africa Branch Code: 01-92-05 Current Account Number: 4209 6822 9
The PPC Imaginarium Awards – SA’s biggest art and design competition – has jewellery
as an entry category. With R500 000 in prizes up for grabs, enter a creation that
innovatively makes use of cement and your career could receive a valuable boost.
Visit http://www.ppcimaginarium.co.za/ for more information on this year’s competition.
On the cover
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Printing: Colors
Corporate Social Responsibility strategies for
jewellery industry come under spotlight
SOUTH AFRICAN JEWELLERY NEWS
The industry's only trade journal
MA
RC
H 2
016
R36,00 (incl VAT)
SIHH Geneva – first releases for 2016 from the high horology maisons
PPC Imaginarium Awards category
winners announced
CALL TO ENTRY FOR 2016/2017
c ntents
28. LITTLE GEMSInspired by a garden
23. BRAND MANAGEMENT• Breitling’s Avenger Bandit
• Refined chrono restores tradition
• A new trio for Baselworld
• On the international stage
• Reprising renowned sights of Paris
7. NEWS• De Beers CEO hints at sight changes, continued flexibility in 2016
• Seventh ADTF holds its own in cautious market
• French Jewellery at Hong Kong International Jewellery Show
• Diamantaires to receive additional options for identifying clients
• GIA débuts expanded lab and education facility in Botswana
• Polished diamond prices rise in January
4
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2016
WFDB PRAISES APPOINTMENT OF STEPHEN LUSSIER AS DPA CHAIRMAN
SEVENTH ADTF HOLDS ITS OWN IN CAUTIOUS MARKET
The World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) has congratulated
Stephen Lussier on his appointment as Chairman of the Diamond Pro-
ducers’ Association (DPA). “Stephen’s breadth of knowledge of the dia-
mond business is second to none and the DPA will reap the advantages
of having him guiding it,” says WFDB President Ernie Blom.
Lussier serves as the CEO of the De Beers diamond brand, Forever-
mark, is Executive Vice-President of the De Beers Group of Companies
and is also its Executive Vice-President: Marketing. He has worked for
De Beers for more than three decades.
“I’ve known Stephen for many years and his experience in driving
forward marketing programmes, most recently with the successful For-
evermark brand, will serve the DPA well,” says Blom. “With the support
of Sally Morrison as MD of Marketing, I believe the DPA is well set to
push forward creative generic marketing initiatives.
“The WFDB is ready to support the DPA. With more than 20 000
members at 30 affiliated bourses across the world I believe we can
work together successfully for the benefit of the entire diamond trade.
Generic marketing is absolutely critical to the continued success of the
diamond jewellery sector and I look forward to a co-operative relation-
ship with the DPA to achieve this aim.”
When the seventh edition of the Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair (ADTF)
opened its doors on Sunday, 31 January, expectations among par-
ticipating exhibitors were low-key, recognising the rather slow holiday
sales season reported by European retail jewellers and diamond dis-
tributors. Fortunately, by the time the three-day fair – jointly organised
by the Antwerp Diamond Bourse (Beurs voor Diamanthandel), the Dia-
mond Club of Antwerp (Diamantclub van Antwerpen) and Antwerp’s
Rough Diamond Bourse (Antwerpsche Diamantkring) and held in the
halls of the bourse and the club – drew to a close, the overall mood was
distinctly upbeat.
“We were here for all three days and spent a lot of time in the
halls, viewing many goods and conducting extensive negotiations
about the diamonds we’d selected. It wasn’t easy, but we did some
very serious business here,” said Albert M, a Middle Eastern diamond-
buyer. “Of course, Antwerp remains the No 1 source for diamonds.
If you don’t find what you’re looking for here, you won’t find it any-
where else either.”
The ADTF wasn’t about diamonds alone. Some of the exhibitors dis-
played an exclusive choice of precious coloured gemstones, including
emeralds, rubies and sapphires. “While we were only a few at this edi-
tion of the event, we had a lot to offer buyers on the high-end scale of
coloured gemstones,” said Oded Shapiro of the eponymous firm.
“Fairs are often less about sales and more about maintenance. With
lots of new buyers coming in and a loyal, ever-growing body of re-
tail jewellers and distributors coming back year after year, we’ve built
strong and lasting business relationships that produce sales throughout
the year,” said Organising Committee spokesman Michel Schonfeld.
“By meeting both new and existing clients and offering them good en-
tertainment and interesting educational seminars, we strengthen and
prolong our association with them.”
Close to 90 exhibitors at the ADTF offered visiting buyers a choice of
diamonds in all sizes, quantities, prices and qualities.
Suppliers of: Certified 0.30-5.00ct round and fancy cut diamonds, hand-calibrated
high quality smalls, extensive range of natural cognac/champagne in rounds from 0.005ct-4.00ct as well as fancy cuts, natural
and treated smalls in black, blue, pink, purple, yellow etc.
Delivery country-wide
CONTACT DETAILS:
Address: 402 East Wing, 27 Ridge Road,
Parktown, Johannesburg, 2193
Tel: (011) 484 3513/4 Fax: (011) 484 5562
NEWS
DIAMANTAIRES TO RECEIVE ADDITIONAL OPTIONS FOR IDENTIFYING CLIENTSIn Belgium, not only banks, but also diamond
traders are required to identify potential
clients before proceeding to a trans-
action. In this regard, the country is
stricter than other European Mem-
ber States. To simplify the process,
the Antwerp World Diamond Centre
(AWDC) has entered into a co-opera-
tion agreement with Bureau Van Dijk,
which specialises in gathering infor-
mation with regard to company data
and shareholder structures.
“Diamond traders are requested
to implement a so-called client accept-
ance policy in which they investigate who the
potential client is, what risks are associated
with that client’s profile and the nature of
the business relationship,” says AWDC
spokeswoman Margaux Donckier.
“As a result of our collaboration with
Bureau Van Dijk, from now on Ant-
werp diamond traders can easily find
all the necessary information in the
database.”
In addition to identification
data, the database includes sanc-
tions lists, politically exposed
persons, media reports, Financial
Action Task Force high-risk countries, etc. It
also contains identification data from some
250 million firms worldwide, including compa-
ny information of diamond-related organisa-
tions in the most important trading hubs and
diamond-producing countries, such as Israel,
India, the USA, China and Botswana.
However, Donckier cautions that the da-
tabase should be considered an additional,
rather than a primary resource. “Diamantaires
still need to go through the traditional iden-
tification process, but can also look up the
client details in the database and conduct a
client risk analysis to supplement and verify
the information. In this way, we’re providing
diamond companies with an additional tool to
meet all legal requirements.”
GEMFIELDS’ 2Q EMERALD AND BERYL PRODUCTION UP 41%Gemfields reports that emerald and beryl
production from the Kagem mine in Zambia
surged 41% year-on-year to 8,2 million carats
in the second quarter, ending 31 December
2015. Ruby and corundum output from the
Montepuez deposit in Mozambique slumped
53% to 1,6 million carats.
Meanwhile, Fabergé sales orders rose 13%,
compared with the previous year, according to
a statement released on 16 February.
The coloured gemstone sector “appears
to have avoided many of the challenges being
faced within the diamond and wider resource
sector”, says Ian Harebottle, Gemfields’ CEO.
“Kagem delivered a 41% increase in pro-
duction volumes year-on-year, while costs
continue to be well maintained,” he adds.
“The second quarter of the 2016 financial year
has delivered positive results across Gemfields’
operations. This is an excellent achievement
and clearly demonstrates the positive impact
of our ongoing commitment to increased
efficiencies and improved mining methods.”
The miner says it maintains its 2016
production target of 25-30 million carats
for rough emeralds and 8 million for rough ru-
bies. – Rapaport
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SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2016
SCHNITZER CONGRATULATED ON ELECTION AS IDI CHAIRMAN Ernie Blom, World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) President,
has congratulated Honorary WFDB President Shmuel Schnitzer on his
election as the new Chairman of the Israel Diamond Institute (IDI).
Blom says that during challenging times, it is critical for the global
industry to have experienced and well-known industry figures leading
its major organisations.
“I commend Shmuel not only on his election, but also on his will-
ingness to continue providing his vast knowledge and experience of
our industry for the benefit of the trade,” says Blom. “He’s only just
finished his fourth term overall as President of the Israel Diamond
Exchange and has also served as WFDB President. He’s now serving
as the Chairman of the WFDB’s Trade & Business Committee and his
knowledge of the issues is invaluable.
“It’s not always easy to find the time to serve the industry, but
Shmuel has the concept of public service built into him and has al-
ways been willing to help the Israeli and global diamond trade. I look
forward to being able to call on his assistance in the coming years.”
POLISHED DIAMOND PRICES RISE IN JANUARYAccording to figures released by the Rapaport Group, polished diamond
prices rose in January as shortages continue to support the market.
American demand is steady after a reasonably good holiday season,
while China’s wholesale market slowed as the focus shifted to retail for
the Chinese New Year Spring Festival.
The RapNet Diamond Index (RAPI) for 1ct, GIA-graded diamonds
rose 0,9% in January. RAPI for 0,30ct diamonds advanced 4,7% and
RAPI for 0,50ct diamonds grew 4,5%. RAPI for 3ct diamonds fell 0,5%.
RAPI for 1ct diamonds fell 4,4% from a year ago as manufacturers
sought to reduce excess inventory in 2015.
The Rapaport Monthly Report demonstrates that polished
prices rose in January due to shortages, rather than increasing
diamond demand. Polished trading was driven by American jewellers
replenishing stock sold during the holiday season, as well as some
inventory purchases. However, uncertainty remains as consumer
demand is sluggish in emerging markets. The stronger American
dollar is negatively impacting tourist spending in that country and
domestic dealer demand in India and China.
FRENCH JEWELLERY AT HONG KONG INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY SHOW
Eight French jewellery brands will exhibit at the
next Hong Kong International Jewellery Show,
which is scheduled to take place at the Hong
Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre from 3-7
March 2016.
For the first time, a French pavilion will be set up at this show. It will
be located in Hall 3C, from booths F01-F11.
NEWS
HRD ANTWERP ORGANISES SPECIAL COURSE FOR ALROSA
VICENZAORO VISITORS UP 5% Total traffic at the VicenzaOro January trade
show rose 5% to more than 35 000 visitors as
international interest increased, according to
the event’s organisers.
The fair in Vicenza, Italy, which was held
from 22-27 January, saw 19 381 buyers turn
up, with 5% growth in the number of buyers
from outside Italy to 8 774 from 130 countries,
says Fiera di Vicenza. Italian operator numbers
increased 4,3% to 10 607, indicating a possible
recovery of the domestic market.
Products from 1 500 brands from 31 coun-
tries were on show across nine pavilions, cover-
ing 29 000 m².
“We’re particularly pleased with the results in
terms of visitor figures for this VicenzaOro,” says
Matteo Marzotto, President of Fiera di Vicenza.
There was “strong growth” in visitor num-
bers from the USA, but the number of buyers
from China and Hong Kong dropped, “confirm-
ing the slowdown in the Chinese economy”,
the company says.
The central theme of the fair was “The Gold-
en Voice”, which involved giving a voice to im-
portant stakeholders in the gold and jewellery
industries at workshops, seminars and meetings.
There was also a special focus on technology
used in the industry as part of the 39th T-GOLD,
an international show dedicated to machinery
and technology used in the gold and jewellery
industry. It was attended by 133 businesses, in-
cluding 111 Italian companies. – Rapaport
On 12 February the HRD Antwerp Education De-
partment organised a one-week special course
for Alrosa, one of the leading companies in the
diamond industry.
The course provided a broad understand-
ing of the various steps involved in transforming
a rough diamond into a polished one, starting
from the moment the stone leaves the mining
facility until it’s ready to be mounted into a jewel.
The course included hands-on training
whereby participants were provided with a Run
of Mine in order to sort out the different quali-
ties of small stones, eg sawables and makea-
bles, which then had to be divided into several
sub-categories.
Participants also received an introduction
to diamond grading by being taught the four
Cs (colour, cut, clarity and carat) and practis-
ing their skills using a diamond microscope and
loupe X10.
To complete the training, the Alrosa delega-
tion visited the Antwerpsche Diamantkring, one
of the four diamond bourses in the city, and a dia-
mond polishing factory. – www.hrdantwerp.com
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13SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2016
AWARDS
The country’s richest art and design prize to support
emerging creatives, the PPC Imaginarium Awards, has
upped the ante by outstripping the inaugural round of
its own competition, which was launched in 2014.
PPC Imaginarium Awardscategory winners announced
The exhibition will be on show at the UJ Gallery at the University of Johannesburg in Auckland Park
from 3-28 March 2016 before moving to the Pretoria Arts Association from 1-12 April 2016.
THE 2015/16 PPC IMAGINARIUM AWARDS
not only garnered unprecedented attention
from entrants, with a record number of 698
registered, but there has also been a noticeably
marked improvement in the standard of the
submissions. What’s more, the number of
finalists for 2015/16 has more than doubled
that of the initial year of the competition.
A total of 47 regional finalists were selected
for 2015/16, compared with the previous
year’s tally of 21 finalists from 477 registered
entries. Finalists were chosen in each of the
six entry categories, namely: Film, Sculpture,
Industrial Design, Architecture, Jewellery
and Fashion. Submissions were judged by
a regional panel of industry heavyweights,
chosen for their notable achievements in their
respective sectors.
PPC Imaginarium Awards Director and well-
known architect Daniel van der Merwe curated
the regional judging panel, which toured the
country to evaluate the physical, digital and
film submissions in each region: Johannesburg,
Pretoria, Bloemfontein, Port Elizabeth, Durban
and Cape Town.
The regional judges included high-profile
industry personalities such as Aaron Kohn of
the Museum of African Design, artists
Stephen Hobbs and Wilma Cruise
and Cathy O’Clery of Platform Crea-
tive Agency. These judges were
tasked with identifying the final-
ists in each category, based on the
strength of their submissions.
Having evolved from the long-
standing PPC Young Concrete Sculp-
tor Awards, the PPC Imaginarium Awards
encourage artists and designers to create and
express their abilities using Portland cement-
based concrete as a primary base or mate-
rial. The emphasis is placed on innovation – a
criterion which has re-
sulted in dynamic and
progressive works that
truly push the limits of
cement and excite the
imagination.
Says Van der Merwe:
“We’re extremely thrilled
that the number of expres-
sions of interest increased from last year and the
standard of the entries is exceptional. We can
already see that the exhibition of the finalists’
work will be exciting and stimulating for the
public. All of this attests to the validity of the
PPC Imaginarium Awards and their relevance in
the South African art and design context as a
platform for promoting emerging talent.”
To celebrate the pieces and projects that
have been chosen as finalists, the PPC
Imaginarium Awards is mounting a
travelling exhibition, supported by
Stuttafords Van Lines, which will
move from Cape Town to Johan-
nesburg and then on to Pretoria in
the first half of 2016. In the
latter half of the year, the
exhibition will feature at the
Turbine Art Fair and at 100% Design South Af-
rica, both in Johannesburg.
The first leg of the travelling exhibition ran
from 4-26 February 2016 at the Youngblood
Arts & Culture Development in Cape Town,
with the opening night forming part of the
Mother City’s “First Thursdays” initiative. It
was the first time the finalists had been show-
cased publicly.
While the PPC Imaginarium Awards offer
the country’s richest cash prize ever for an
arts competition (over R500 000), they are
equally remarkable for their primary ambition
of providing a nurturing launch platform for
the finalists and winners – with the aim of
establishing them as leaders in their
field. The PPC Imaginarium Awards
cement PPC Ltd’s position as one
of the largest and most exciting
promoters and patrons of the
arts and design in SA, a com-
pany which has previously been
awarded for its innovation and
support of the arts.
Entries were open to South African
citizens, residency permit-holders and
foreign students with study permits – anyone
not yet professionally established in their field.
Entries by individuals, as well as team collabo-
rations, were allowed. Artists and designers
could enter multiple categories, with an origi-
nal artwork for each category.
Each category winner will receive R50 000,
while the runner–up walks away with R15 000.
Thereafter, each category winner stands a
further chance of receiving the overall grand
prize of R100 000. In addition to the mon-
etary incentives, category winners will receive
opportunities and mentorship from various
thought leaders in their respective industries.
The winners in each competition category
were judged by a national judging
panel convened on 1 February
2016 and the category winners
were announced at the open-
ing event on 4 February. This
year’s jewellery category
prize was awarded to
Mignon Daubermann.
15SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2016
DIAMONDS
vesting in the diamond
industry. Today we an-
nounce that this has re-
sulted in a concrete co-operation
agreement with two fintech com-
panies: Uphold and FX4BIZ.”
Uphold CEO Anthony Watson comments:
“With Uphold, the AWDC and its thousands of
trading partners can move, hold, transact, clear
and settle in any currency or form of value they
choose – securely, with real-time transparency
and traceability. By removing all forex spreads,
costs and settlement delays from AWDC’s
US$50 billion yearly diamond trade, Up-
hold will save AWDC trading
partners tens of millions
of dollars every year.
Uphold’s unique next-
generation platform al-
lows AWDC trading partners and
dealers to immediately transact, clear
and settle all trades in over 190 coun-
tries with zero waiting, delays or limita-
tions. In addition, we’ll be opening our third
European office here in Antwerp: staffed local-
ly (initially six hires), it will directly support the
AWDC and its trading partners on the ground
and globally.”
“As a Belgian payment service provider li-
censed by the National Bank of Belgium, we
feel honoured to have been selected to enter
into such a co-operation agreement,” says
FX4BIZ CFO Patrick Mollard. “We’re highly
motivated to work with the AWDC in building
a tailor-made and sustainable bank infrastruc-
ture for this industry. We’re convinced that the
key success factors in this project will be the
AWDC’s capacity to share its expertise and our
ability to comply with strict international regu-
latory constraints.”
A total of 60 diamond companies will be
able to sign up for these two pilot projects,
which will run for a full year. The AWDC will be
holding a seminar to explain the project to the
diamond companies.
THE WORLD’S DIAMOND TRADE IS CURRENTLY
under duress, with a global decline in sales
across the board. Antwerp saw its total trade
value decline from US$58,8 billion in 2014 to
US$48,3 billion in 2015. While this represents
a decline of nearly 18%, competitors such as
India and Israel endured much steeper declines.
In this context, the Antwerp World Diamond
Centre (AWDC) is turning to new technologies
to meet the industry’s alternative financial ser-
vices needs for international transactions. With
a commitment to innovative solutions for driv-
ing the industry forward, the AWDC is starting
a pilot programme with two so-called fintech
companies to offer international transactions
which are fast, transparent and instant.
AWDC CEO Ari Epstein explains: “The glob-
al diamond industry took a beating last year.
Thanks to our strong foundations and our abili-
ty to be agile and adopt new technologies, Ant-
werp has succeeded in safeguarding its world-
leading position with regard to both rough and
polished diamonds. Antwerp will consequently
emerge from this downturn in a position of
strength, poised for a profitable year ahead.”
Causes of the global downturn
As the diamond industry rises and falls on the
waves of the global economy, the economic
slowdown in the BRICS countries – particularly
China, the second-largest market for polished
Addressing the diamond
The diamond trade around the world is under duress.
Antwerp did not escape the year unscathed, but was the
best performer. This past year, US$48,3 billion worth of
diamonds were imported to and exported from that city.
diamonds after the USA – had a huge
impact on the diamond trade.
While the dramatic downturn in the
diamond industry resulted in a slight
decline in prices for rough diamonds
for the first time in decades, soft
prices for polished diamonds
made it increasingly difficult for
diamond traders to turn a profit.
As a result, the average profit
margins for wholesalers were 0,11-0,37%,
the same as in 2014.
Additionally, the banking and sovereign debt
crises led to drastic changes in the availability of
bank lending to businesses. This made it difficult
for many industries to obtain financing. Diaman-
taires had fewer resources available for purchas-
ing rough diamonds, which has an impact on
the global trade.
AWDC to begin pilot project
“The international terrain on which the Ant-
werp diamond industry does business means
that we, as the industry’s representative or-
ganisation, are always searching for new tech-
nologies and ways to distinguish ourselves
from our competitors,” says Epstein. “Last
autumn we organised a Diamond Equity In-
vestment Symposium, together with Morgan
Stanley, aimed at promoting transparency to
institutional investors who are considering in-
industry’s global crisis
16 SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2016
INTERNATIONAL FAIR
Established in 1991, the 2016 Salon International de la
Haute Horlogerie (SIHH, or the “Geneva Salon”) was an
outstanding expo steeped in class and quality.
For non-tech attendees, there was glitz and
bling as well. Martin Foster attended it.
SIHH Geneva – first clude Cartier, Van Cleef &
Arpels, Piaget, Vacheron
Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoul-
tre, IWC Schaffhausen,
Greubel Forsey and Montblanc. Serious horo-
philes need deep pockets to venture into the
company of this elite cabal.
From the most simple to the most compli-
cated, the new in-house creations confirmed the
robust health of a centuries-old industry which
feeds on tradition, yet keeps up with the highest
technical requirements of exquisite time-
keeping. However, there are signs
of dark clouds gathering around
the event, which may presage
stormy times.
Symptomatic of the Swiss
watch industry, Richemont
watch brands saw a small de-
cline in sales of 4% in the past six
releases for 2016
(Above): From Greubel Forsey, this timepiece is the essence of refinement with its solid gold dial and lower tourbillon bridge, whose “barrelled and polished” surface requires extremely rare expertise. Each bridge is discreetly signed by the Movement Finisher who completed it. The price is available on request – but it’s guaranteed to reduce you to tears!
(Left): From Roger Dubuis in Geneva, the Blossom Velvet Pink and Blossom Velvet Blue are multi-petal expressions of sensuality, while three one-of-a-kind and even more elaborate interpretations – assembled as an exquisite set nestling in a superbly crafted, marquetry-worked box – comprise a dainty “trilogy bouquet”.
IN ADDITION TO THE 15
established exhibitors, the SIHH
also welcomed nine exclusive, in-
dependent watchmakers and créa-
teurs inside the “Carré des Horlogers”. For
five days, from 18 January, fine watchmaking
offered a show of creativity brought into being
by exceptional expertise. Ever more complex
tourbillons, chronographs, dive watches, extra-
thin designs and sumptuously decorated time-
pieces took technical mastery, craftsmanship
and sheer bling to dizzy heights.
The SIHH is primarily a Richemont Group
luxuries event and its illustrious exhibitors in-
17SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2016
INTERNATIONAL FAIR
The SIHH is primarily a Richemont Group luxury event and its illustrious exhibitors include Cartier, Van Cleef &
Arpels, Piaget, Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC Schaffhausen,
Greubel Forsey and Montblanc.
months, although the rest of the
company performed very strongly
in difficult market conditions, with
overall operating profit up 6%. De-
spite an overall solid performance,
investors gave the company’s share price a
haircut of 25% over the past three months.
The Federation of the Swiss Watch Indus-
try has just released figures which reflect our
unsettled times. The industry recorded its
first downturn since 2009 – the total value of
watch exports was 21,5 billion francs, a de-
cline of 3,3% compared with 2014.
The situation regarding all Swiss
watch exports deteriorated steadily
during 2015, falling from +3,2% in
the first quarter to -7,3% in the fourth
quarter. The second quarter fell well short
of its 2014 level (-6,8%), while the first half-
year as a whole remained slightly positive
(+0,5%). Yet, notwithstanding these figures,
the industry’s still a far more dependable
investment than oil, coal or iron ore.
From these darkening economic clouds
emerged a thunderbolt last year when in mid-
January, the Swiss National Bank thumped the
(Above left): Urwerk’s UR-106 “Lotus” features the brand’s signature satellite hours in a guise not seen before. Three satel-lite hours wander across the dial to create the most graphic of horological blooms. “We’ve taken particular care over the small-est details of this UR-106. It’s taken us 18 years to perfect the concept, so we’re making no concessions,” explains Martin Frei, the company’s Chief Designer and co-founder.
(Above right): From Hautlence comes a new, luxurious edition in 18ct red gold. Unveiled in July 2015, the Vortex is housed in a three-dimensional case that offers a glimpse of its movement from all sides. The timepiece’s avant-garde, dynamic design changes every hour, as the cage of the regulating organ rotates 60° every 60 minutes, thus turning the Vortex into a mesmerising, mechanical piece of art.
(Above): At the 2016 SIHH, the authorities of the Republic and Canton of Geneva, the President of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, which organises the event and the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry mingled with CEOs of the representative industrial bodies and the exhibitor maisons.
markets by scrapping its three-year-old peg
of 1,20 Swiss francs/euros. Within a few cha-
otic minutes of the central bank’s announce-
ment, the Swiss franc soared by 30% against
the euro, finally settling at about a 12% revalu-
ation against major currencies. Notwithstand-
ing the notoriously jittery nerves of Richemont
shareholders, the tough psychometric mind-
set of the Swiss watch industry will see the
brand through.
The exclusive Geneva Salon is the first fix-
ture on the annual watch fair calendar. The
products, the people, the traditional industrial
culture and – above all – the production of
beautiful things made this invitation-only event
a very special one.
Reserved for retailers, distributors and the
media, the next one will be held from 16-20
January 2017 at the Geneva Palexpo.
Contact: Aroon BhooraTel: +27 31 301 3963 • Fax: +27 86 528 6516 • Cell: +27 83 777 6657
E-mail: [email protected] • Website: www.piyuvejewellers.co.za
19SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2016
CORPORATE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY
Corporate social responsibility (CSI) strategies in the
gemstone and jewellery sectors came under focus at a
well-attended seminar conducted during the VicenzaOro
January trade show in Vicenza, Italy, on 24 January.
jewellery industry
THE SEMINAR AT
this year’s Vicen-
zaOro on CSR was
part of CIBJO’s and
Fiera di Vicenza’s joint programme to
promote CSR education in the jewellery
sector and was also supported by Gem-
fields PLC, the world’s largest coloured
gemstone mining company.
The basic premise of the seminar was that,
in the current business environment, CSR is no
longer is an optional practice: it has become a
required component of every organisation in
the industry, which must be able to describe
its approach and, if possible, quantify it. There
was a special focus on the coloured gemstone
sector, with three of the speakers associated
with that industry.
The panel of speakers at the seminar in-
cluded Dr Gaetano Cavalieri, President of
CIBJO, who spoke of CSR as an essential busi-
ness strategy in the jewellery sector; Corrado
Facco, MD of Fiera di Vicenza and President
of CIBJO’s International Trade Fair Commis-
sion, who provided a concise introduction to
CSR in the jewellery sector and Eduardo Esc-
obedo, Executive Director of the Responsible
Ecosystems Sourcing Platform, who discussed
sustainability and responsible environmental
strategies in the coloured gemstone sector.
Ian Harebottle, CEO of Gemfields PLC, also
spoke and presented his company as a case
study for implementing CSR principles in the
coloured gemstone sector, while Dr Donald
Feaver, Chief Technical Officer of Branded
Trust Assurance Systems, outlined supply chain
and CSR compliance strategies. Paolo Cesari,
President of Assogemme, the Italian Associa-
tion of Precious Gemstones & Related Mate-
rial, described his organisation’s programme
to create a supply chain compliance system for
the Italian coloured gemstone sector.
The moderator of the seminar was Steven
Benson, CIBJO’s Director of Communications.
“To present your company as a firm with a
social conscience not only presents it in a posi-
tive light, but also communicates to consumers
that when they buy jewellery, they’re making
a positive contribution to society,” said Facco.
“In the modern business environment, it isn’t
enough to just talk about behaving correctly –
you have to be seen doing so.
“Through CSR, we can safeguard the long-
term health of our industry,” said Cavalieri. “By
showing our commitment to our stakeholders
and demonstrating that they, too, will be
provided with fair and equitable opportunities
to benefit from the jewellery enterprise, they’ll
be incentivised to invest and reinvest in their
future and that of the entire industry.”
CIBJO is the international jewellery confed-
The basic premise of the seminar was that, in the current business environment, CSR is no longer an optional practice – it has become a required component of every organisation in the industry, which must be able to describe its approach and, if possible, quantify it.
CSR strategies for the
eration of national trade organisations. Its pur-
pose is to encourage harmonisation, promote
international co-operation in the jewellery in-
dustry and consider issues which concern the
trade worldwide. CIBJO’s chief mission is to
protect consumer confidence in the industry.
(Above): Members of the speakers' panel during the CSR seminar in Vicenza (from left): Paolo Cesari, President of Assogemme, Dr Donald Feaver, Chief Technical Officer of Branded Trust Assurance Systems, Ian Harebottle, CEO of Gemfields PLC, Eduardo Escobedo, Executive Director of the Responsible Ecosystems Sourcing Platform and Dr Gaetano Cavalieri, President of CIBJO.
21SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2016
BRAND HISTORY
A happy innovation
CHOPARD LUXURY TIMEPIECES ARE KNOWN
for their innovative use of diamonds on the
dial of a watch. This features mobile diamonds
which float freely between two sapphire crys-
tals. The novelty, aptly named Happy Dia-
monds, was first introduced in 1976 and it
has become an integral and identify-
ing speciality of the brand’s collec-
tion, of which the hallmarks are
quality and creativity.
The founder of the brand
in 1836 was Swiss watchmaker
Louis Ulysses Chopard. He was
24 years old when he established
the LUC Manufacturing Company
in the small village of Sonvilier.
From the outset, it was a high-
precision manufacture which spe-
cialised in producing watches and
chronometers and he led the com-
pany until 1915. It still bears his name.
There were, however, towns better known
than Sonvilier and this prompted his son, André
– who took over the reins in 1921 – to move to
the well-established watch centre of La Chaux-
de-Fonds to be part of the fast-growing watch
market of the time. In 1987 he relocated to
Geneva, which had become the prime area for
upmarket, quality timepieces. The company’s
labour force numbered 150 at that time.
Ownership of the company changed with
its sale in 1963 after Louis Ulysses’ young
grandson, Paul-André Chopard, chose to
follow an alternative career. Karl Scheufele
III, a young goldsmith, became head of the
company that year and it was he who added a
jewellery segment to the watchmaking facility,
but retained the brand name. He quickly gained
experience in watchmaking and contributed to
the modernisation of the company.
The creation in 1976 of the first Happy Dia-
monds watch design, which was audacious and
playful, marked a new direction for the brand.
Within four years, under Scheufele’s leader-
ship, the theme was extended to include the
jewellery sector. It was then extended still fur-
ther to a range of sports watches and Chopard
boutiques were opened in Hong Kong
and Vienna.
In 1985, Karl-Friedrich and Caroline
Scheufele were appointed Vice-pres-
idents of the Chopard Group. Today
they are its Co-presidents. Caroline’s
passion for drawing jewellery, even
at a young age, prompted her
to sketch a clown with hinged
legs and a tummy full of dia-
monds and coloured stones. This
became an icon of the brand and
propelled the company into its
first high-end jewellery line of
Happy Diamonds.
A further development was
the sponsorship by the brand
of the legendary Italian classic car
rally, Mille Miglia, of which Chopard
became a partner in 1988. This resulted
in the brand’s tradition of developing a
special-edition timepiece every year and the
Happy Diamonds Sport appeared in 1993.
The production of the mechanical LUC move-
ments was moved to the Swiss Jura town of
Fleurier, marking a return to the brand’s roots.
Chopard’s affiliation with the Cannes Film
Festival began in 1998 with negotiations be-
tween Caroline Scheufele and the President of
the festival. It culminated in the brand becom-
ing the official partner of the event. In con-
The Cannes Film Festival is an annual highlight in the world of entertainment and watch and jewellery manufacturer Chopard became its official partner in 1998. The award of the Palme d’Or (Golden Palm) is a major event. Its trophy was redesigned in 1978 and is presented annually by Caroline Scheufele, who’s better known in the world of watches and jewellery as Co-Director of the Chopard brand. There’s a unique relationship between the Scheufele family and acting.
junction with a team of specialised craftsmen,
Caroline redesigned the Palme d’Or, which was
then created in the company’s workshop. Each
year new designs are created to celebrate mov-
ies, jewellery sets for the “mounting the steps”
ritual, parties to honour films and a trophy for
youthful talent, plus the Palme d’Or itself.
Pursuing the brand’s association with the
film world, the Chopard Trophy is a new award
by a jury of professionals to promote creativity in
films and honour two young actors judged as
male and female “Revelations of the Year”.
Yet another promotion was the rally
of sports cars dating from 1926-1978, at
which Chopard presented the Grand Prix
de Monaco Historique. This was first
organised in 1997 to commemorate
the 700th anniversary of the Gri-
maldi dynasty. Originally planned
as a one-off event, the enthusiasm
generated by the gathering of leg-
endary cars led the prestigious Au-
tomobile Club de Monaco to hold the
race every two years. In 2002 Chopard
became the official partner and time-
keeper of the event and it inspired
the development of a series of classic
sports watches. The brand also be-
came associated with Porsche in the
Le Mans 2014 race and presented its
version of the related Superfast Chrono in a
limited edition of 919 pieces.
Chopard has supported a number of chari-
ties, including the Prince of Wales’ Charitable
Foundation, by donating pieces to them.
Caroline Scheufele’s sketch of a clown became an icon of the Chopard brand and resulted in its first high-end jewellery line of Happy Diamonds.
CONTACT DETAILS Tel: 011 964 8119 | Email: [email protected] | Website: www.worldofdiamonds.co.za
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23SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2016
BRAND MANAGEMENT
Impresario LadyFirst introduced in 1998, the elegantly crafted
Concord Impresario proudly makes a comeback
to the forefront of the watchmaking scene. Its
sophisticated allure is a free-spirited blend of
tradition and modernity interpreted in two de-
signs, one for men and another for women.
Released from the constraints of pure clas-
sicism, the feminine version provides its own
definition of elegance and gives a pleasing
twist to its refined lines, with a vibrant con-
trast between stainless steel, pink gold and
shimmering white mother-of-pearl.
The diamond embellishment on the dial
pays a shining tribute to the design’s aesthetic
harmony. This new model also features sev-
eral of the Impresario’s original iconic design
details, including finely fluted case sides and
slender pink gold-plated hour-markers. An au-
thentic manifesto of elegance, the Impresario
Lady is above all a style statement, a watch to
be experienced and worn by day or night.
Luxury with a French touchOn show at Baselworld are new mod-
els such as Trocadero, which comes in a
leather version with different dials, with
or without jewelling. The Royal Titane
Fantôme features an all-black case,
dial and hands. It is a very trendy
style equipped with the Calibre
Royale in a limited edition. It
has dual direction, automatic
winding and a large date and
day, with no amplitude loss upon
aviation. Its unique system offers ex-
ceptional reliability, accuracy-integrated
complications and an 88-hour power re-
serve. The small seconds are at 4 o’clock,
while the bridges and main plate are cir-
cular-grained and snailed with Côtes de
Genève and a sunray oscillating-weight
gilt lys logo.
The Royale 300 has a uni-direction-
al, rubber-moulded Vulcamix bezel
and Luminova features complement
the minute scale, which is used to
calculate decompression time.
A quarter-turn crown features
the fleur-de-lys logo, which
allows for ease of use under
pressurised conditions. The
Calibre Royale movement is of
Pequignet manufacture and has
dual-direction automatic wind-
ing, an 88-hour power reserve and
is water-resistant to 300 m. The case
is 43 mm in diameter, polished and sat-
in-finished, enhanced by the coloured
bezel. This timepiece is available in or-
ange, blue or black.
French brand Pequignet is a luxury
product with a 40-year history. Located
in the town of Morteau in the Jura
Mountains, traditionally the heart
of watchmaking, the brand was
founded by Frenchman Emile
Pequignet in 1973. Each watch
bears his initials.
Taking over in 2004 from
Pequignet was Dieter Lebund-
gut, who set about making the
brand a Haute Horlogerie manu-
facture. Two years later he opened an
in-house laboratory equipped with the
latest technology, supported by talented
engineers. Within five years the brand
had installed its Manufacture work-
shops which introduced its innovative
mechanical movement, its emblem the
fleur-de-lys.
A luxury brand traditionally has
a distinctive icon, but Pequignet
believes it has two. The Calibre
Royale, a grandes complication
movement, is the real flagship
with a strongly defined iden-
tity. It required 279 technical
drawings, 379 components
and 150 tools to create its
performance. A younger and
more accessible collection is the
legendary range Moorea, with a
link bracelet which typifies the French
touch. Inspired by Pequignet’s passion
for his champion eponymous horse,
it has a steel grain-shaped link hinged
with the bracelet.
Refined chrono restores traditionLongines’ column-wheel single push-piece
chronograph is a re-issue of one of its period
pieces. It revives an early 20th-century classic
and is part of the brand’s Heritage line, from
what might be regarded as its “heyday”.
First made in 1936 using a calibre which was
available in many variations, it was considered
as defining what a high-end chronograph
should be and correct to the period. It has a
wide tachymeter scale to the leaf hands, the
slender Bauhaus-style face evoking the ’30s
and ’40s and exuding a luxurious aesthetic.
Yet it is also a watch with a modern automatic
column wheel and a mono-pusher/crown
measuring 6,5 x 5,5 mm, has sapphire crystals
and is set on a genuine alligator-skin strap.
The dial is black, the 49 mm robust
polished steel case based on the heavier
modern look, the thickness 14 mm,
simple and elegant sub-dials at 3, 6
and 9 o’clock and a date window
creating a balanced look.
Minutes and seconds have
small numerals, and one-fifth
seconds for the chronograph.
The watch is water-resistant to
30 m and has a sporty profile.
The design itself is fairly modest.
The middle case is a cylinder with slab
sides, the bezel tin. The lugs are very
angular – a unique look – with various
bevels and flat surfaces. At 3 o’clock is
the single mono-pusher and at
10 o’clock a sunken pusher for
changing the date which removes
this function from the crown. By
flipping the watch, the case-back is
revealed, which is decorated with
Côtes de Genève and shows off
the decorated movement and
the big blue column wheel, as
well as the brand logo.
The whole effect is simple and
classic, with a subtle military touch,
enhanced by graining and slight
shifts in dial height and surface
texture. There is also a white version
on which the sub-dials are silver.
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25SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2016
BRAND MANAGEMENT
On the international stageFrench company Pierre Lannier has had over
30 years of experience in exporting its watch
brand and has participated in trade shows at
Baselworld Tokyo and Hong Kong. It is a fam-
ily-run company founded in 1977 by Beatrice
and Jean-Paul Burgun, who were succeeded
by their son, Pierre, in 2004.
The brand’s best-seller for a number of
years has been the chronograph and it special-
ises in automatic watches.
Styles which will be on show at Baselworld
include Ceramic Elegance, a women’s
collection in rose gold with a pearly
face and a stainless steel bezel.
Set on a ceramic and stainless
steel bracelet, it is also available in
gold and is water-resistant to 30 m.
Another model with a white pearly
face has a rhinestone bezel, stainless steel
casing and is set on a crocodile-effect leather
strap. It is also available with a black strap and
is water-resistant to 50 m.
In the gents’ collection, key
styles from the brand’s best-selling
chronograph range with new,
sophisticated details are avail-
able in an elegant chronograph,
its case of stainless steel with
an indigo and rose gold face on a
stainless steel bezel. Water-resistant
to 50 m, it is set on a blue crocodile-
effect strap and is also available with
a black face.
A new trio for BaselworldThree new releases from French brand Michel
Herbelin will be on show at the upcoming
Baselworld 2016.
The classic Newport line has a new model
– the Newport Yacht Club Squelette. It has a
charcoal grey PVD-coated bezel to its stainless
steel case and silver internal bezels with indexes.
The silvered internal bezel dial has indexes vis-
ible through the sapphire crystal and the Swiss
movement is water-resistant to 100 m. The
watch is mounted on a charcoal-grey Louisiana
alligator-stamped full-grained calfskin strap.
The Odyssée automatic has a case of brushed
stainless steel and a sapphire glass. The dial is
black with luminescent indexes, the wristband
in stainless steel, polished and brushed, with a
folding clasp. Its Swiss automatic movement is
water-resistant to 100 m.
A more feminine model is the Scandinave,
which is available in a choice of stainless steel
or PVD-coated rose gold-plated steel. The silver-
toned dial has a slightly vertical satin finish, its
hands sword-shaped. The bracelet is in either
matching stainless steel or PVD-coated rose
gold-plated steel. The Swiss movement is water-
resistant to 30 m.
Lightness, safety and precision are crucial at-
tributes in the world of naval aviation. The
Avenger Bandit is a COSC-certified chrono-
graph that lives in step with the take-offs
and landings on the decks of aircraft carriers.
These “ocean fortresses” govern the demand-
ing features that Breitling has incorporated
into the Avenger Bandit.
Its 45 mm case is lightened by the use of
satin-brushed titanium, a favourite metal in
the aeronautical industry. The graduated ro-
tating bezel is topped by engraved stencil-type
numerals and distinguished by its four rider
tabs, a classic signature feature on Breitling
watches serving to memorise times.
The non-slip grip of the screw-lock crown
and chronograph pushers guarantees optimal
handling. The strap is made of rubber topped
Reprising renowned sights of ParisNothing typifies Paris more than the
Eiffel Tower and its Opera House, so
it is not surprising that French watch
brand Saint Honoré has named two
of its newest models after these well-
known tourist attractions.
Tour Eiffel Lady is a limited edi-
tion of 500 among the brand’s
1 885 pieces of the range. It has a
certificate of authenticity signed by
the Eiffel Tower Committee. Set in a 38
mm steel collector’s case (or alternative-
ly in rose gold, plated to 18ct), its bezel
is carved from a piece of the famous
tower, decorated with a “crois-
sillon” lattice design. There
is a choice of a white dial
or “Éclat Effect”. The
silver open dial echoes
the architecture of the famous tower. It
has an automatic movement and a per-
sonalised oscillating weight and crown,
as well as a sapphire glass and is water-
resistant to 30 m. There is a choice of
a white or brown crocodile-design
leather strap with an Eiffel Tower
pin buckle.
Opera Sailor is in a case of stain-
less steel or rose gold PVD in two sizes
– 33 or 37 mm – protected by a sapphire
crystal. The dial is white mother-of-pearl
set with six diamonds totalling 0,02ct.
Its quartz movement has a date display at
4 o’clock. Seven interchangeable
straps in violet, pink, blue,
white, orange, brown
and black all have
white over-stitching.
Breitling’s Avenger Banditby a supple, sturdy and light, high-tech textile
fibre exterior. These technical attributes make
the Avenger Bandit an authentic instrument
for professionals tackling daunting feats and
the most extreme missions.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2016
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27SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2016
MARKETPLACE
JEWELS, PARTICULARLY THOSE OF THE AN-
tique variety, reflect the history of their era. Dur-
ing the reign of Queen Victoria, various styles of
jewellery were popular: early Victorian (roman-
tic), mid-Victorian (mourning jewellery, follow-
ing the death of her consort, Prince Albert) and
the more delicate designs of the late Victorian
era, such as cameos or pieces inspired by the
ancient Assyrian, Greek, Etruscan, Roman, Egyp-
tian, Gothic and Renaissance periods.
Perhaps the garland (or Edwardian) style,
which followed during the reign of Victoria’s
son and successor, Edward VIII, was a reaction
to these former designs. Even as the Prince
of Wales, he was an infamous playboy and
hedonist who surrounded himself with fast-
moving plutocrats for whom jewellery was an
important part of their lifestyle. During one visit
to Paris (and no doubt to Cartier’s Rue de la
Paix), he named Louis Cartier “King of Jewellers,
Jeweller to Kings”. After his coronation, he
continued his opulent, pleasure-loving lifestyle.
As its name implies, the garland style,
initiated by the third generation of the Cartier
family, was inspired by floral themes. Jewels
were designed to move and sway with the light,
flowing garments of gossamer-delicate pastel
fabrics and earrings were an iconic element of
the period. Fragile openwork and articulated
modules were typical features. The changing
necklines in women’s fashions towards the end
of the decade left no room for large pins and
brooches, placing increased importance on
necklaces. Larger pendants were often circular,
with garland and geometrical motifs, and small
brooches were worn in large numbers.
The importance of the dog collar had its
origins in a small scar on Queen Alexandra’s
neck, which was probably the result of an op-
eration during her childhood. She preferred
to hide it by wearing these choker necklaces,
28
A jewellery design of the early 20th century was the historic garland style. As its name implies, it typically featured garlands of flowers which were tied with ribbons and bows. It was flaunted by the nouveau riche and popularised by Danish-born Princess Alexandra of Wales, who became the Queen Consort of King Edward VII. Alice Weil reviews the history of the movement and the French jeweller who spearheaded it.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MARCH 2016
LITTLE GEMS
Inspired by a garden
which society ladies were quick to copy. Her ef-
fect on fashion was profound and the style she
set lasted for over 50 years. These tight-fitting
necklaces took the form of elaborate, pierced
platinum gossamer designs mounted on sim-
ple black velvet or moiré ribbon, with a buckle,
flowers and other designs at their centre.
Tiaras were essential for
the well-to-do and the use
of platinum enabled them to
be large and ornate, without
being heavy. They were set
off on an upswept hairstyle
known as the “Edwardian”
which, oddly enough,
returned to favour during the
1940s. The pervasive garland
style gave rise to these
headdresses with festoons
and loops suspended in
pendulous motifs. They led
to a bandeau worn across
the forehead, daintily set
with diamonds and secured
by a ribbon at the back of the
head. A design with a Greek
motif was popular. Some
tiaras had feathers attached
to them, replacing the 19th-century fashion of
wearing brooches as hair ornaments.
The bow and garland motifs were used in
rings with large centres, encircled by calibrated,
coloured cut gemstones or small diamonds. A
leading trend was rings stacked on each finger,
while larger, more substantial designs featured
an elongated outline pierced and pavéd with
myriads of diamonds and coloured stones,
adorning the fingers from palm to knuckle.
The narrower, feminine silhouette saw
buckles and slides employed to encircle the
waistline. The buckles could double as diadems
by the addition of a ribbon to
secure them around the head.
Combinations of jewellery were
worn together, as opposed to the
Victorian perjures (sets of four or five matching
items) worn together, despite being of different
designs. Since it was impossible to sew heavy
jewellery elements onto the gossamer fabrics,
as had been done previously, the use of
platinum and diamond jewellery allowed an
easy mix-and-match to accessorise garments,
whether for day- or eveningwear.
Earrings of the period developed from sim-
ple diamond studs at the beginning of the cen-
tury. These were soon eclipsed by fragile open-
work designs which co-ordinated better with
the fashions of the period; the garland style
featured long, glittering miniature wreaths and
articulated centre stones which swung from
the ear lobes. Fragile, gossamer-like creations
with delicate dangles were all suspended from
decorated ear hooks. The Edwardian elements
were present, including platinum openwork, di-
amonds and mille-graining, and were made to
sway with the flowing garments. They were an
iconic element of the period.
Bracelets, of which fewer
were worn than in Victorian
times, turned to delicate, ta-
pered designs with repeated
motifs, elongated forms or
links. The front section con-
tained beautiful gem-set
designs and were completed
by expanding and contract-
ing plain links that circled
the underside of the wrist –
a feature which made them
less expensive.
The “new” designs of the
Edwardian age had their roots
planted firmly in the 18th
century and were inspired by
the court of Versailles; these
were for customers who
desired aristocratically styled
jewellery. As a prime jeweller of the Edwardian
style, Louis Cartier encouraged his designers to
wander the streets of Paris observing 17th- and
18th-century architecture for inspiration.
The demise of King Edward in 1910 saw his
son and heir ascend the throne as George V.
He soon had weightier matters to preoccupy
him, with the onset of World War I in 1914. And
Louis Cartier found further inspiration for the
wristwatch, which was gaining popularity, from
his view of an American tank. That, in turn, led
to an enduring iconic timepiece of the House of
Cartier – the Tank watch.
Rhino Gold 5.7, the Ultimate CAD for Jewellery
Rapid 3D JV (Pty) Ltd
Tel: 0861 000 185 • E-mail: [email protected]
Website: www.rapid3d.co.za /www.rapid3dparts.co.za
Some of the main features of the software:
• Real Time Rendering • The fi nest rendering quality
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1. Image 2. Create 3D 3. Manufacture & Sell
IPC/
3612
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6
Specialist supplier of fine quality Tanzanite FoundationTM certified loose tanzanite and certified Tanzanite BlueTM jewellery.
[email protected] C +27 82 601 [email protected] C +27 83 231 8919
P.O Box 85084, Emmarentia, 2029 T +27 11 446 5900 F +27 86 614 7433