ann taylor manual 6-13-08

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

SECTION 10

PART I

RAW MATERIAL AND FINISHED PRODUCT

PERFORMANCE AND TESTING PROCEDURES

STANDARDS & PROCEDURES


Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

PROCEDURES FOR DEVELOPMENT .............................................................................................................................. 3 CORPORATE PRODUCT TESTING PROGRAM ............................................................................................................... 3

Spinner’s Certificate ....................................................................................................................................................... 4 Fur and Faux Fur ........................................................................................................................................................... 5 Shearling ........................................................................................................................................................................ 5 RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES COMPLIANCE ............................................................................................................... 6 RETESTING RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE ..................................................................................................................... 6 ANN TAYLOR RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES LIST ....................................................................................................... 7

DEVELOPMENT TESTING ............................................................................................................................................. 13 Trim Component Testing - Development ...................................................................................................................... 13 Yarn Testing – Development (Basic Yarn Test Package) ............................................................................................... 14 Yarn in Yarn Form ....................................................................................................................................................... 14 Yarn in Knit Form ........................................................................................................................................................ 15 Fabric Testing - Development ....................................................................................................................................... 16

PRODUCTION TESTING ................................................................................................................................................ 17 Trim Component Testing (including test protocols) ...................................................................................................... 17 Yarn Testing - Production ............................................................................................................................................ 26 Yarn in Yarn Form ....................................................................................................................................................... 27 Yarn in Knitted Form ................................................................................................................................................... 28 Fabric Production Testing ............................................................................................................................................ 29 Garment Production Testing ......................................................................................................................................... 31

TEST REQUEST PROCEDURES..................................................................................................................................... 33 APPROVED LABORATORIES FOR ANN TAYLOR SOFTLINES PRODUCTS ................................................................ 36 ANN TAYLOR TEST PACKAGE PRICES – SOFTLINES .................................................................................................. 40 ANN TAYLOR INDIVIDUAL TEST PRICES ..................................................................................................................... 42 Ann Taylor Adult Test Request Form—TRIM ................................................................................................................ 44 Ann Taylor Adult Test Request Form—FABRIC/ YARN ................................................................................................ 45 Ann Taylor Adult Test Request Form—GARMENT ....................................................................................................... 46 PRODUCT PERFORMANCE .......................................................................................................................................... 47 TESTING PROTOCOLS .................................................................................................................................................. 50

BOTTOMS (#001) ........................................................................................................................................................ 51 TOPS, DRESSES, JACKETS (#002) (CAREER/CASUAL) ............................................................................................. 54 SUITS/COORDINATES (#003) (CAREER/CASUAL) ..................................................................................................... 57 OUTERWEAR (#004) ................................................................................................................................................... 60 DENIM APPAREL (#005) ............................................................................................................................................. 63 INTIMATES (#006) ....................................................................................................................................................... 66 SLEEPWEAR (#007) .................................................................................................................................................... 69 TESTING ACTIVE/SWIMWEAR (#008) ........................................................................................................................ 72 SWEATERS (#009) ....................................................................................................................................................... 76 LEATHER (#010) .......................................................................................................................................................... 79 ADDITIONAL TESTING (#011) ..................................................................................................................................... 81

Basic Care Labels ........................................................................................................................................................... 83 Branded & Co-Branded Product ..................................................................................................................................... 84

BOTTOMS (#001A) ...................................................................................................................................................... 85 TOPS, DRESSES, JACKETS (#002A) ........................................................................................................................... 87 SUITS/COORDINATES (#003A) ................................................................................................................................... 89 OUTERWEAR (#004A) ................................................................................................................................................. 91 DENIM APPAREL (#005A) ........................................................................................................................................... 93 INTIMATES (#006A) ..................................................................................................................................................... 96 SWEATERS (#009A) .................................................................................................................................................... 98



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PROCEDURES FOR DEVELOPMENT

• Each fabric/yarn that is considered for development is required to be accompanied by a “Fabric/Yarn Information Sheet (FIS/YIS)”. This form is to be completed by the Mill and a copy

• is to be sent to the appropriate Ann Taylor Product Developer. According to the information that the Mills supply, New York Sourcing will decide to either pursue or drop/substitute the quality, depending on the end use.

• If deemed suitable for the product, new fabrics will be evaluated, prior to making bulk commits, to make sure all standards can be met (See “Development Testing” for details).

CORPORATE PRODUCT TESTING PROGRAM

• Ann Taylor has established a basic testing program to monitor and ensure compliance with applicable legislation and corporate quality standards. Basic test packages have been developed for products and components, including trim components, yarns, textiles, and garments.

• All products, including trim components, yarns, textiles, and garments must be tested at Production

stage prior to shipment. Each supplier is solely responsible for ensuring that prior to shipment each product has been tested in accordance with the applicable basic testing package. All finished products care and content must be appropriately labeled in accordance with United States Federal Trade Commission Regulations.

• Each supplier is responsible for the submission of the required number of samples, in all styles and

all colors purchased, for evaluation. The supplier is required to submit the required number of samples to the laboratory accompanied by the completed Ann Taylor Test Request Form (see pages 44-46).

• Ann Taylor will be monitoring to ensure that all products are tested. • Ann Taylor will pay for all development testing when it is specifically requested by the appropriate

Ann Taylor buying agent, Merchandise Manager, or Product Manager. Note: If the item developed is purchased for production, the supplier will be required to pay

the development testing charges.

• All suppliers who provide textiles and finished products to Ann Taylor, or to other Ann Taylor suppliers for confirmed Ann Taylor orders, are required to incur the cost of all production testing, including the cost of merchandise destroyed during the process. This independent testing is required to verify that all products are in compliance with all applicable legislation and established performance standards. Suppliers will be invoiced directly for the testing charges by the Ann Taylor approved testing laboratory.



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Spinner’s Certificate

1. Spinner’s certificate is a document used by spinner to confirm a certain type of fiber, including trademarks, used in spinning. 2. Types of fibers that require spinner’s certificate include the followings: - Merino wool - Lambs’ wool - Shetland wool - Angora rabbit hair - Premium cotton fibers such as Pima, Egyptian, Sea Island etc. - Fiber trademarks such as Lycra®, Elite®, Tencel® etc. 3. Apart from the spinner’s certificate, additional supporting tests will be performed by BV or ITS Shanghai on claimed fiber type or fiber trademarks (e.g. Antron), where applicable. 4. Information on date of issue, client's address, authorized signature, yarn description, RMID (Raw Material Identification) number, etc. must be included on the document. 5. Spinner’s certificate is valid ONLY for 12 months from date of issue.



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Fur and Faux Fur

Genuine Fur

Ann Taylor Stores Corporation has a “no-fur” policy for all brands. This excludes shearling. Garment Containing Faux Fur

In order to ensure compliance with the corporate policy on real fur, items that contain faux fur must be accompanied by a test report confirming this prior to shipping.

Shearling Garment Containing Shearling (not fur)

All shearling furs require fiber content test performed on bulk raw material. This test must be performed by a CCMI approved laboratory and submitted to Ann Taylor prior to shipping.



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RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES COMPLIANCE

It is critically important for Ann Taylor to know that our products are safe for customer’s end use. To accomplish this, we have created a restricted substances list with implementation dates. It is mandatory that all raw materials shipped by September 1, 2008, and finished products by November 1, 2008 are in full compliance.

RETESTING RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE

Any raw material that fails initial testing for restricted substances must indicate on subsequent test request form what corrective action has been taken to ensure compliance with Ann Taylor’s standards.



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ANN TAYLOR RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES LIST June 2008 Version

CAS Number Chemical Name/Color Index Name Ann Taylor Limits Standard Origin

Reason for Restriction

Test Method

Compliance Date

DYES AZO Dyes which, by reductive cleavage of one or more AZO groups, may release one or more of the following aromatic amines.

60-09-3 4-Amino azobenzene1 Not Detected (below detection limits - see test method)

European Union & China

Legislated Textiles (EU): EN 14362-1 Polyester(EU): EN 14362-2 Leather(EU): CEN ISO/TS 17234 Textiles(China) GB/T 17592-2006 Test Method for 4- Aminoazobenzene (pAAB) confirmation § 64 LFGB 8 82.02-9

Immediate

97-56-3 o-Aminoazotoluene

92-67-1 4-Aminodiphenyl

99-55-8 2-Amino-4-nitrotoluene

90-04-0 o-Anisidine

92-87-5 Benzidine

106-47-8 p-Chloroaniline

95-69-2 4-Chloro-o-toluidine

120-71-8 p-Cresidine

615-05-4 2,4-Diaminoanisole

101-77-9 4,4'-Diamino-diphenylmethane

91-94-1 3,3'-Dichlorobenzidine

119-90-4 3,3'-Dimethoxybenzidine

119-93-7 3,3'-Dimethylbenzidine

838-88-0 3,3'-Dimethyl-4,4'-diamino-diphenylmethane

101-14-4 4,4'-Methylene-bis-(2-chloroaniline)

91-59-8 2-Naphthylamine

101-80-4 4,4'-Oxydianiline

139-65-1 4,4'-Thiodianiline

95-80-7 2,4-Toluenediamine

95-53-4 o-Toluidine

137-17-7 2,4,5-Trimethylaniline

95-68-1 2,4-Xylidine2

87-62-7 2,6-Xylidine2

Footnotes:

1. Applicable in the European Union Regulation Only

2. Applicable in the Chinese Regulation only

Disperse Dyes 2475-45-8 Disperse Blue 1 Not Detected

(below detection levels - see regulation)

Germany Legislated DIN 54231 Disperse Dyes

Immediate

56524-77-7 or 56524-76-6

Disperse Blue 35

12223-01-7 Disperse Blue 106

61951-51-7 Disperse Blue 124

730-40-5 Disperse Orange 3

13301-61-6 Disperse Orange 37/76

2872-52-8 Disperse Red 1

2832-40-8 Disperse Yellow 3

Other Dyes 118685-33-9 Navy Blue 0.1% by mass European

Union Legislated Solvent extraction

and GC-MS or LC MS

Immediate



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SOLVENTS (Aliphatic Chlorohydrocarbons) 76-01-7 Pentachloroethane 0.1%(mass) -

total Germany and Japan

Legislated Headspace GC-MS

All raw materials shipped by 9/1/08 and finished product by 11/1/08

56-23-5 Carbon Tetrachloride

630-20-6 1,1,1,2-Tetrachloroethane

79-34-5 1,1,2,2-Tetrachloroethane

67-66-3 Chloroform

79-00-5 1,1,2-Trichloroethane

75-35-4 1,1-Dichloroethylene

71-55-6 1,1,1-Trichloroethane

127-18-4 Tetrachloroethylene3

Footnotes:

3. Applicable in the Japan Regulation Only

PESTICIDES 93-72-1 2-(2,4,5-trichlorophenoxy) propionic acid, its

salts and compounds Not Detected

Switzerland & Finland (those pesticides without indication are regulated under Switzerland)

Legislated U.S. EPA Method 8081A/8151A


93-76-5 2,4,5-trichlorophenoxyacetic acid, its salts and compounds

309-00-2 Aldrin (both Switzerland and Finland)

57-74-9 Chlordane (both Switzerland and Finland)

72-54-8 Dichloro-diphenyl-dichloro ethane (DDD)

72-55-9 Dichloro-diphenyl-dichloro ethylene (DDE)

50-29-3 Dichloro-diphenyl-tichloro ethane (DDT) (both Switzerland and Finland)

60-57-1 Dieldrin (5) Also Japan (both Switzerland and Finland

72-20-8 Endrine (both Switzerland and Finland)

76-44-8 Heptachlorine (both Switzerland and Finland)

1024-57-3 Epoxy-heptachlorine

118-74-1 Hexachlorobenzene (both Switzerland and Finland)

608-73-1 Hexachlorocyclohexane (HCH, all isomers) except gamma-hexachlorocyclohexane (except linande [58-89-9] in medical products)

465-73-6 Isodrin

4234-79-1 Kelevane

143-50-0 Kepone (Chlordecone)

58-89-8 Lindane

72-43-5 Methoxychlor

2385-85-5 Mirex (Finland only)

72-56-0 Perthane

82-68-8 Quintozene

8001-50-1 Strobane

297-78-9 Telodrin

8001-35-2 Toxaphene (both Switzerland and Finland)

1336-36-3 53469-21-9 and various

Halogenated biphenyls, including Polycholorinated biphenyl (PCB) (both Switzerland and Finland)

Various Halogenated terphenols, including Polychlorinated terphenyl (PCT)

Various Halogentaed naphthalenes Various Halogentaed diarylalkanes

99688-47-8 81161-70-8 76253-60-6

Halogenated diphenyl methanes, including Monomethyl-dibromo-diphenyl methane Monomethyl-dichloro-diphenyl methane Monomethyl-tetrachloro-diphenyl methane

87-86-5 Pentachlorophenol (PCP), its salts and compounds

25167-83-3 Tetrachlorophenol (TeCP), its salts and compounds



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DIOXINS And FURANS 1746-01-6 40321-76-4 51207-31-9 57117-31-4

Group 1 2,3,7,8-Tetrachlorodibenzo-p-dioxin 1,2,3,7,8-Pentachlorodibenzo-p-dioxin 2,3,7,8-Tetrachlorodibenzofuran 2,3,4,7,8-Pentachlorodibenzofuran

Sum of Group 1: 1 µg/kg

Germany Legislated US EPA 8290


39227-28-6 19408-74-3 57653-85-7 57117-41-6 70648-26-9 72918-21-9 57117-44-9 60851-34-5

Group 2 1,2,3,4,7,8-Hexachlorodibenzo-p-dioxin 1,2,3,7,8,9-Hexachlorodibenzo-p-dioxin 1,2,3,6,7,8-Hexachlorodibenzo-p-dioxin 1,2,3,7,8-pentachlorodibenzofuran 1,2,3,4,7,8-Hexachlorodibenzofuran 1,2,3,7,8,9-Hexachlorodibenzofuran 1,2,3,6,7,8-Hexachlorodibenzofuran 2,3,4,6,7,8-Hexachlorodibenzofuran

Sum of Group 1 & 2: 5 µg/kg

35822-46-9 3268-87-9 67562-39-4 55673-89-7 39001-02-0

Group 3 1,2,3,4,6,7,8-Heptachlorodibenzo-p-dioxin 1,2,3,4,6,7,8,9-Octachlorodibenzo-p-dioxin 1,2,3,4,6,7,8-Heptachlorodibenzofuran 1,2,3,4,7,8,9-Heptachlorodibenzofuran 1,2,3,4,6,7,8,9-Octachlorodibenzofuran

Sum of Group 1, 2 & 3: 100 µg/kg

50585-41-6 109333-34-8 67933-57-7 131166-92-2

Group 4 2,3,7,8-Tetabromodibenzo-p-dioxin 1,2,3,7,8-Pentabromodibenzo-p-dlox n 2,3,7,8-Tetrabromodibenzofuran 2,3,4,7,8-Pentabromodibenzofuran

Sum of Group 4: 1 µg/kg

107555-93-1 no CAS #'s available

Group 5 1,2,3,4,7,8-Hexabromodibenzo-p-dioxin 1,2,3,7,8,9-Hexabromodibenzo-p-dioxin 1,2,3,6,7,8-Hexabromodibenzo-p-dioxin 1,2,3,7,8-Pentabromodibenzofuran

Sum of Group 4 & 5: 5 µg/kg

ASBESTOS77536-66-4 12172-73-5 77536-67-5 12001-29-5 12001-28-4 77536-68-6

Actinolite Amosite Anthrophyllite Chrysotile Crocidolite Tremolite

Not etected

European Union

Legislated Microscopic examination; minimum magnification 1 250, polarized light filter attached; ratio of fiber length to diameter is at least 3:1


FLUORINATED GREENHOUSE GASES 2551-62-4 Sulphur hexafluoride - SF6 Not

detected European Union

Legislated Headspace for GC/MS Thermal Adsorption GC/MS

All raw materials shipped by 9/1/08 and finished product by 11/1/08 Hydrofluorocarbons (HFCs):

75-46-7 HFC-23 - CHF3

75-10-5 HFC-32 - CH2F2

593-53-3 HFC-41 - CH3F

138495-42-8 HFC-43-10mee - C5H2F10

354-33-6 HFC-125 - C2HF5

359-35-3 HFC-134 - C2H2F4

811-97-2 HFC-134a - CH2FCF3

75-37-6 HFC-152a - C2H4F2

420-46-2 European Union

470-46-6 HFC-143a - C2H3F3

431-89-0 HFC-227ea - C3HF7

HFC-236cb - CH2FCF2CF3

431-63-0 HFC-236ea - CHF2CHFCF3

690-39-1 HFC-236fa - C3H2F6

679-86-7 HFC-245ca - C3H3F5

460-73-1 HFC-245fa - CHF2CH2CF3



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406-58-6 HFC-365mfc - CF3CH2CF2CH3

Per-fluorocarbons (PFCs):

75-73-0 Perfluoromethane - CF4

76-16-4 Pertluoroethane - C2F6

76-19-7 Perfluoropropane - C3F8

355-25-9 Perfluorobutane - C4F10

67-8-26-2 Perfluoropentane - C5F12

355-42-0 Pertluorohaxane - C6F14

115-25-3 Perfluorocyclobutane - c-C4F8

FLAME RETARDANTS

85535-84-8 Chlorinated paraffins (C10-C13) May not be used

EuropeanUnion

Legislated Solvent extraction and GC-MS or LC-MS Methanol extraction: analysis by GC- MS or LC-MS Solvent extraction and analysis by GC-MS or LC-MS

Immediate

59536-65-1 Polybrominated biphenyls (PBBs) May not be used

EuropeanUnion

Legislated

32534-81-9 Penta-bromodiphenyl ether (pentaBDE) May not be used

EuropeanUnion

Legislated

32536-52-0 Octa-bromodiphenyl ether (octaBDE)

126-72-7 Tris (2,3-dibromopropyl) phosphate (TRIS) Not Detected EuropeanUnion

Legislated

5412-25-9 Bis (2,3-dibromopropyl) phosphate Not Detected Japan Legislated

545-55-1 Tris (1-aziridinyl)-phosphine oxide (TEPA) Not Detected European Union

Legislated

1163-19-5

Decabromodiphenyl ether (DecaBDE) 0.1% by weight Sweden Legislated



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METALS Restrictions for Textiles 7440-43-9 Cadmium (Cd) 100 ppm Netherlands Legislated Total Digestion

Immediate 18540-29-9

Chromium (Cr+6) – hexavalent

Not detected (below detection limits - see test method)

Germany

Legislated

DIN 53314; C18 filtration and reanalysis of all positive results

7439-92-1 Lead (Pb) PVC 30 ppm PU 100 ppm

United States

Legislated San Francisco Superior Court, 317256, CGC-02-403328, and CGC-05-440721

Total digestion

Restrictions for Leather 7440-43-9 Cadmium (Cd) 100 ppm Netherlands Legislated Total digestion Immediate

7439-92-1 Lead (Pb) 100 ppm Denmark Legislated Total digestion

18540-29-9 Chromium (Cr+6) - hexavalent Not detected (below detection limits - see test method)

Germany Legislated DIN 53314; C18 filtration and reanalysis of all positive results.

Restrictions for Metal Parts 7439-92-1 Lead (Pb) 100 ppm Denmark Legislated Total digestion Immediate 7440-02-0

Nickel (Ni) (in metal items)

0.5 µg/cm2/week

European Union

Legislated Nickel release by EN 1811 Abrasion of coated items by EN 12472

Immediate

Restrictions for Heavy Metals

7440-43-9 7440-43-9 18540-29-9 7439-92-1

Antimony Arsenic Barium Cadmium Chromium Lead Mercury Selenium

60 ppm 25 ppm 1000 ppm 75 ppm 60 ppm 90 ppm 60 ppm 500 ppm

European Union

Legislated EN 71, Part III ASTM F963

Immediate

Restrictions for Plastics, Plastic Film, Surface Coatings and Printing

7440-43-9 Cadmium (Cd) 100 ppm European Union

Legislated EN 1122 Immediate Lead in PU All raw materials shipped by 9/1/08.,and finished product by 11/1/08

7439-92-1 Lead (Pb) in Paint/Surface Coating 600 ppm

CPSC Legislated 16 CFR 1303; ASTM E613/1645 (mod.)

7439-92-1 Lead (Pb) in PVC Handbag, small leather goods, picture frame, mirror compact, jewelry, trinket box, season ornaments Gloves, scarves, hats, socks, footwear, hair accessories, belts, sunglasses, reading glasses

200 ppm 30 ppm

Ca Prop 65 Legislated San Francisco Superior Court, 317256, CGC-02-403328, and CGC-05-440721

EPA 3051B/3051

7439-92-1

Lead (Pb) in PU 100 ppm Germany Legislated EPA 3051B/3051



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Restrictions for Adult Jewelry

7439-92-1 Lead (Pb) Class 1

No requirement

Ca Prop 65

Legislated

EPA 3051B/3051

Immediate After 12/31//08 After 12/31//08

Class 2 Other Metal (Electroplated) Other Metal (Unplated)

100,000 ppm 60,000 ppm 15,000 ppm

Plastic/rubber(including PVC) Dyes & Surface Coating

600 ppm 200 ppm 600 ppm

Class 3

Not Class 1 or 2 600 ppm

ORGANOTIN COMPOUNDS 56573-85-4 Tributyltin (TBT) Not Detected

(0.5 ppm each)

Japan Legislated Performance based method of ethanol extraction derivitization and analysis by GC MS or LC-MS ISO 17353-2004

All raw materials shipped by 9/1/08.,and finished product by 11/1/08

668-34-8 Triphenyltin (TPhT)

MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS 50-00-0 Formaldehyde

0-36 months Not detected (below detection limits - see test method)

Japan Legislated ISO 14184-1 or JIS L1041 (Law 112) or DIN 53315

Immediate

>36 months (with direct skin contact 75 ppm Japan Legislated ISO 14184-1 or JIS L1041 (Law 112) or DIN 53315

84-74-2 85-68-7 117-81-7 117-84-0 26761-40-428553-12-0

Phthalates Dibutyl phthalate (DBP) Butyl benzyl phthalate (BBP) Di-2-ethylhexyl phthalate (DEHP) Di-n-ocyl phthalate (DNOP) Di-iso-decyl-phthalate (DIDP) Di-iso-nonyl phthalate (DINP)

<1,000 ppm (0.1% by weight).

European Union

Legislated Determination of defined Ortho Phthalic Esters in Synthetic Fibers and Thermoplastics by LC-DAD-MS or GC-MS

Confirmation of failure by fragmentation HPLC-MS

Immediate



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DEVELOPMENT TESTING

The Development Testing Program has been established to test products and evaluate specific performance characteristics of “questionable” or “new” trims, components, yarns, or textiles prior to confirming the bulk production order. Conducting a test during the development stages of production does not exempt the supplier from testing bulk production in accordance with the full basic testing packages.

For On-going/carryover qualities • No testing required.

For New qualities • At minimum, test those select qualities which are considered most critical • NY Product Development, in conjunction with the appropriate buying office, will decide which new

qualities are to be tested. Fabric information sheets (FIS), past history, as well as any additional information from the supplier should be used as resources.

• Product Development always has the option of testing all new qualities.

Trim Component Testing - Development • Specialized trim and embellishment components, both functional and decorative, may be tested in

the development stage (see above for details) in accordance with the full Basic Trim Component Testing Package prior to placing the order with the trim supplier. This would assure that the trim component meets the requirements prior to selection for production.

• Trim Testing Exemptions

Zippers: Ann Taylor does not require testing to be performed on Coats, Ideal Fasteners & YKK zipper components for audits Certain trim components: Ann Taylor does not require testing to be performed on Scovill shanks, rivets, and snaps components for adults. Remark: Testing is still required on infant and toddler items.

• For suggested testing, please see “Trim Component Testing--Production”.

• Ann Taylor is responsible for charges incurred at development stage.



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Yarn Testing – Development (Basic Yarn Test Package) (If requested) Number of Samples Required for Testing: 2.5 yards 1st color minimum width 36”

1 yard each additional color minimum width 36” 1 cone, 10 yards minimum

Yarn in Yarn Form

To be performed by country sourcing the yarn (i.e. unfinished). • Development yarn should be submitted as fully processed product.

Required test Test Method Required standard Notes PHYSICAL

CHARACTERISTICS

FIBER CONTENT AATCC 20/20AASTMD276/629

Single fiber: no toleranceBlends: +/- 3%

Test one solid and all top-dyed mélanges.

YARN SIZE

ASTM D1059 +/- 10%Against claimed

One color only

TWIST PER INCH

ASTM D1423 As specifiedby yarn supplier

One color only

YARN STRENGTH


One color only

Note 1: Colorfastness testing is not part of the development protocol. However, Ann Taylor Production/Product Development, yarn mill, and dyer should identify potential issues with respect to colorfastness at the earliest possible stage. Note 2: Additional testing may be required upon request. Note 3: For 100% Cashmere only, add the following tests on the fiber itself: 1. Diameter of Fiber (ASTM D2130) 2. Fiber Length (ASTM D1575)



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Yarn in Knit Form

• To be performed by country manufacturing the garment (If requested) • Can be garment or knit down – discussed with NY PD. • Should be performed in every stitch and gauge.

Required test Test Method Required standard NotesPERFORMANCE

FLAMMABILITY 16 CFR 1610 Class 1 One color onlySee “Performance Specifications -Flammability” for details

BURSTING STRENGTH ASTM D3786

Minimum(psi)Fabric Weight: <4.0 oz/sq yard: 40 4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 50 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 55 Lace: 35 Sweaters: 40

One color only

PILLING ASTM D3512 Random Tumble (30 minutes) BS EN ISO 12945 Part 1 Specialty animal fibers: 2 hours Other animal fibers: 4 hours

All others: 3.5Polyester/nylon: 3 Sweaters and Animal Fibers: 3.5 3.5

One color only

STRETCH AND RECOVERY

ASTM D2594 use “Growth” for pass/fail determination; “Recovery” for informational purposes only

In stretch direction only :For samples with elastic content > 10% (60 sec.) Recovery: 85% Growth: 5% For samples with elastic content < 10% (1hr.) Recovery: 70%; Growth: 7%

Stretch onlyOne color only

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING

AATCC 135, 3 cycles (as per care instructions) For “dryclean only” fabrics: Hand wash, line dry or flat dry

Length x width (max. %)Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x-10/+3 Poly/Nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 x -8/+3 Sweaters: -5/+3 x -5/+3

One color only Washable fabrics; Dryclean only (hand wash)

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO DRYCLEANING

AATCC 158, 1 cycle

Length x Width (max.%)-3/+2 x -3/+2 Sweaters: -5/+2 x -5/+2

One color onlyDryclean fabrics

APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING/ DRYCLEANING

AATCC 135/158, as per care (3 cycles/1cycle)

Color change: 4Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance

One color only

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY AFTER STEAM PRESS

Coteco Length x Width (max.%) -3/+2 x -3/+2

One color only(not required for sweaters)



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Fabric Testing - Development (If requested) Number of Samples Required for Testing: 2.5 yards 1st color, minimum width 36” 1 yard each additional color, minimum width 36”

Any fabric submitted for testing must be representative of all finishing processes it will be subject to during manufacturing (i.e.: durable water repellents, sanding/brushing, flocking, printing, etc). For washed programs (such as indigo-dyed denim and heavy garment washed fabrics):

• The fabric supplier/manufacturer is responsible for the charges incurred in testing the fabric “before-wash/finish”.

• Ann Taylor is responsible for the charges incurred in testing the fabric “after-wash/finish”. • The garment manufacturer is responsible for the charges incurred in testing the garments after the

wash/finish.

Basic Development Test Package

• *Dimensional stability and Appearance after 3 launderings or 1 dryclean • *Dimensional stability after steam press • Fabric count • Fabric weight • Fiber content • Flammability (see “Performance Specifications—Flammability” for details) • *pH–denim, leather, washed garments • Bursting strength (knits) • Pile retention (corduroy, velvet, velour only) • Pilling resistance (knits / wovens) • Abrasion—denims only • Seam slippage (wovens) • Spirality (knits) / Torqueing (wovens) • Stretch and Recovery (fabrics containing stretch fibers, such as Spandex, Lastol, Elasterell-p ) • Tearing strength (wovens / leather) • Tensile strength (wovens / leather) • Yarn size (only if requested) • Spray Test—only if claiming “water repellent” • Rain Test—only if classifying as “Rainwear”

* For washed programs—these tests are not needed in the “before-wash” state.

See “Performance Specification Sheets/Test Protocols” for standards and test methods.



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PRODUCTION TESTING

The Production Testing Program has been established to test products and evaluate specific performance characteristics of trim, yarn, textile, or garment prior to shipment. Note: if the final fabric has mechanical (wash)/chemical finish, the basic test package must be performed on finished fabric.

Trim Component Testing (including test protocols) All trim components, both functional and decorative (with the exception of adult Coats, Ideal & YKK zipper components), are required to be tested in accordance with the following protocols.

Non-metallic Trim (page 1 of 2) Specification #812 Examples: buttons, ball stoppers, etc. (Excluding: metal, rubber, soft plastic, fabric, leather)

Minimum sample requirement: 1 Gross (144 pieces)

Required test Test Method Required standard Notes

Flammability (fabric trims)

16 CFR 1610 Class 1 One color only (see “Performance Specifications - Flammability for details)

Appearance After Laundering/ Drycleaning

AATCC 150 5X Home Laundering (machine wash warm, tumble dry medium) AATCC158 3X Commercial Drycleaning

No breaking, cracking, chipping or dulling of the surface

Test any one color, three representative sizes/shapes (i.e. large, medium, small, circle, square, heart, etc.) If failures, may need to test additional sizes/shapes. Does not have to be performed if the colorfastness tests under “dyed to match” are performed.

Steam press

Coteco Staining min. 4.5No visual change in appearance

Test any one color, at least three representative sizes/shapes (i.e. large, medium, small)

If dyed to match (instead of internal dyed) add the following tests (test all colors):

Color fastness to washing

AATCC 61 IIA

Color change: min. 4Staining: min. 4

Test all colors, at least three representative sizes/shapes (i.e. large, medium, small)

Color fastness to drycleaning

AATCC 132


Test all colors, at least three representative sizes (i.e. large, medium, small)

Colorfastness to crocking

AATCC 116

Dry: min. 4.5Wet: min. 4

Test all colors, any one size



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Non-metallic Trim (page 2 of 2) Specification #812 Excluding metal, rubber, soft plastic, fabric, leather

If coated or painted add the following tests

Required test Test Method Required standard Notes Lead content 16 CFR 1303

ASTM E1613/E1645 (Mod.)

No more than 0.06% (600 ppm) lead content based on the weight of the dried paint or coating film

All colors

Heavy Metals EN 71, Part III ASTM F963

Antimony: 60 Arsenic: 25 Barium: 1000 Cadmium: 75 Chromium: 60 Lead: 90 Mercury: 60 Selenium: 500

Must not exceed these limits (ppm) for soluble migrated element

Nickel Test EN 1811 EN12472 (report results with and without coating)

Transfer to skin less than 0.5. micrograms per square centimeter per week

Only if supplier indicated that the item is “nickel-free”. (Nickel is possible in coatings or special colors)

If material contains PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing)

Required Test Test Method Required Standard Notes Lead Content EPA 3051 (Modified)

(San Francisco Superior Court, 317256, CGC-02-403328, and CGC-05-440721)

PVC 30 ppm PU 100 ppm

All colors

If Button add the following tests Center Strength

a. Shank/2 & 4 holes plastic & wooden buttons b. Shell buttons c. Horn button

BS 4162 Section 4.0 (modified)

Up to 16 ligne: 16 lbf Up to 25 ligne: 20 lbf Larger than 25 ligne: 30 lbf 15 lbf 18 lbf

Test all shapes/sizes. One color only.

If Snap add the following test

Snap Action ASTM D4846 BV-S 1045

Min: 2 lbsMax: 5 lbs

Test all sizes/shapes. One color only.



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Trim made of metal Specification #813

Minimum sample requirement: 1 Gross (144 pieces)


Corrosion Resistance

ASTM B117 G85 (Mod)24 hours in 1% Salt Spray (Fog)

No visual change in appearanceNo signs of staining, corrosion, oxidation or discoloration.

Test any one sizeAll colors and finishes

Nickel test EN 1811 EN 12472 Report results with and without coating

Transfer to skin less than 0.5 micrograms per square centimeter per week

Only if supplier indicated that the item is “nickel-free”.




If coated or painted

add the following tests Lead content 16 CFR 1303

ASTM E1613/E1645 (Mod.)


All colors

Appearance After Laundering/ Drycleaning

AATCC 150 5X Home Laundering (machine wash warm, tumble dry medium) AATCC158 3X Commercial Drycleaning

No cracking, chipping or dulling of the surface

Test any one color, three representative sizes (i.e. large, medium, small) Note: Trim to be applied on fabric or mock-up garment after testing.





All Colors

If Snap

Add the following test Snap Action BV S1045 Min: 2 lbs

Max: 5 lbs Test all sizes. One color only.



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Zippers (page 1 of 2) Specification #814 Use: A = jeans, B= bottoms, C= dresses/tops, D= outerwear (for pockets “C” can be used)

Minimum sample requirement: 120 (at least 6” in length)

Required test

Test Method

Required Standard (lbf) Notes Use

A Use

B Use

C UseD

Crosswise chain strength

ASTM 2061 (14.1)

80 60 50 75

Top stop holding ASTM 2061 (22.2)

20 16 16 20

Bottom stop holding (stringer separation)

ASTM 2061 (22.5)

16 12 12 20 Non separating zipper only. Lower standards are acceptable if zipper bottom is secured by appropriate sewing in garment.

Fixed retainer pull off

ASTM 2061 (30.2)

NA NA 16 20 Separating zippers only.

Separable pin pull off

ASTM 2061 (30.1)


Holding strength of slider lock

ASTM 2061 (82-91)

12 6 4 7 Only if locking slider. Report any failure Examine all components after testing and report any damage (i.e. elements, etc.).

Color fastness to washing

AATCC 61 IIA


Slider and stringer Test each color

Color fastness to drycleaning

AATCC 132


Slider and stringer Test each color.

Colorfastness to Crocking

ASTM 2054 AATCC 116

Dry: min. 4.5Wet: min. 4

Test each color. Tape only.

Colorfastness to Steam Press

Coteco Staining min. 4.5Color change: 4 and no visual change in appearance.

Complete zipper Test each color

Operability ASTM D2062

No sticking Test 3 different zippers



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Zippers (page 2 of 2) Specification #814

Required test Test Method Required Standard (lbf) Notes Nickel test EN 1811

EN 12472 Report results with and without coating


Nickel is possible in coatings or special colors

If used for swimwear

Colorfastness and appearance after exposure to sea water

AATCC 106 (modify if necessary)

Color change: min. 4Staining: min. 4 Appearance: No visual change.

Stringer and slider Test each color.

Colorfastness and appearance after exposure to chlorinated pool water

AATCC 162

Color change: min. 4Appearance: No visual change


If painted or coated

Add the following tests Lead content 16 CFR 1303

ASTM E1613/E1645 (mod.)


All colors

Heavy Metals

ASTM F963 EN 71, Part III

MaximumsSee “Accessories made of metal”

If metal--all with or without surface coating. If coated, test coating in each color.





All Colors

If made of metal

Heavy Metals ASTM F963 EN 71 Part III

See above See above

Corrosion Resistance ASTM B117 G85 (mod) 24 hrs in 1% salt spray (fog)

No visual change in appearance No signs of staining, corrosion, oxidation or discoloration.

Test any one size All colors and finishes

Note: Exempt from the above tests are Coats, Ideal Fasteners & YKK zipper components for adults.



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Patches, appliqués, twill tapes etc. (Page 1 of 2) Specification #815 Made of fibers, including velcro, dyed elastic, leather patches, etc.

Minimum sample requirement: 1 yard (if in fabric form of at least 40” in width) OR 4 yards (taping)

Required test Test method Required Standard Notes

Colorfastness and appearance after washing

AATCC 61, IIA

Color change: min. 4Staining: min. 4 Self staining: min. 4.5 No visual change in appearance

Test all colors

Colorfastness and appearance after drycleaning

AATCC 132

Color change: min. 4Staining: min. 4 Self staining: min. 4.5 No visual change in appearance

Test all colors

Colorfastness to crocking

AATCC 8 or AATCC 116 If item is too small

Dry: min. 4Wet: min. 3

Test all colors Report which test procedure was used

If item is a tape, ribbon, elastic, etc. add the following tests: Dimensional stability to laundering

AATCC 135 Report actual shrinkage.Acceptance depends on compatibility with fabric in specific garment

Test one color only Three launderings

Dimensional stability to drycleaning

AATCC 158 Report actual shrinkage.Acceptance depends on compatibility with fabric in specific garment

Test one color only One drycleaning only

If used on inside of garment add the following test: Color fastness to perspiration

AATCC 15 Color change: min. 3.5Staining: min. 4

Example: neck tape, etc. Test all colors.



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Patches, appliqués, twill tapes etc. (page 2 of 2) Specification #815 Made of fibers, including velcro, dyed elastic, etc.

If used in swimwear add the following tests:

Required test Test method Required Std. Notes Colorfastness and appearance after exposure to sea water

AATCC 106

Color change: min. 4Staining: min. 4 Self staining: min. 4.5 No visible change in appearance

Test all colors


AATCC 162

Color change: min. 4No visible change in appearance

Test all colors


Required Test Test Method Required Standard

Notes

Lead Content EPA 3051 (Modified)



All Colors

Down and Feather Testing Specification #816

Minimum sample requirement: 300 grams of down and one garment or mock-up.

Required Test

Test Method Required standard Notes

PENETRATION RESISTANCE

IDFB, Method 5530 FTM 191, Method 5530 (mod.)

Minimum 4 Fabric against actual fillingOne color only

FEATHER/DOWN COMPOSITION

IDFB Method 3 Fed Standard 148a

No more than:10% down fiber 10% feather fibers 2% landfowl feathers 2% damaged feathers 2% residue

For labeling, “USA Standards -Down and Feather Products Labeling Guidelines”

FILL POWER IDFB 10, IDFB 32 (tumble dry method)

Minimum550 cubic inches/oz

OXYGEN NUMBER

IDFB 21 Less than 10

TURBIDITY IDFB 22 Minimum 550 mm



24

Rubber and soft plastic patches Specification #817 Minimum sample requirement: 40 pieces

Required test Test number Required Standard Notes

Colorfastness and appearance after washing

AATCC 61 IIA

Color change: min. 4Staining: min. 4 No brittleness, cracking or chipping

All colorsAdd appearance to evaluation

Colorfastness and appearance after drycleaning

AATCC 132

Color change: min. 4Staining: min. 4 No brittleness, cracking or chipping

Not for rubber (known to fail, use “do not dryclean” label) All colors Add appearance to evaluation

Ageing under hot/humid conditions

48 hrs under 50C (120F) and 95% rh

No discoloration, staining, brittleness, cracking or chipping

Any one color

Ageing under cold conditions

48 hrs under 0 C (32 F)

No brittleness, cracking or chipping

Any one color Note: test sample must be evaluated immediately, while still cold.

Phthalates (in PVC)

Solvent extraction with LC-MS or GC-MS Analysis

<1000 ppm of listed substances - see “Standards”

PVCTest all colors

Cadmium Content

EN 1122 <0.01% by weight PVC, Pigment Coated/Painted plastic

BHT content ASTM 4275 Less than 25 ppm Phenol compounds (foam, plastic, etc.)

If used for swimwear add the following tests: Colorfastness and appearance after exposure to sea water

AATCC 106

Color change: min. 4Staining: min. 4 No visible change in appearance

Test all colors


AATCC 162

Color change: min. 4No visible change in appearance.

Test all colors





All Colors



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LABELS

Number of labels required for testing: 25 labels minimum SPECIFICATION #560

TEST DESCRIPTION

REQUIREMENTS

TEST METHOD # OF

SAMPLINGS/ READINGS

1. Durability to 50 launderings and 5 drycleaning

No adverse effects AATCC 135/158 (washing conditions as per care instructions)

3

2. Colorfastness to Laundering - color change - staining

4.0 minimum 3.5 minimum

AATCC 61 1

3. Colorfastness to Drycleaning - color change - staining


AATCC 132 1

4. Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach 4.0 minimum AATCC TS001 1 5. Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach 4.0 minimum AATCC TS001 2 6. Colorfastness to Crocking (dry/wet) 4.0 minimum/3.0 minimum AATCC 116 1

7. Colorfastness to Perspiration - color change - staining


AATCC 15

1

8. Colorfastness to Water: Sea (swimwear) - color change - staining


AATCC 106 1

9. Colorfastness to Water: Chlorinated Pool (swimwear)

- color change

4.0 minimum

AATCC 162 1





All Colors

Size Stickers SPECIFICATION #561

Sample Required: 20 sticker labels and one (1) yard fabric of each color in garment order. Lab. may request additional labels if necessary. Note: Sticker label MUST NOT be pre-applied on fabric.

Required Test Test Method Required Standard Notes

Ageing Test (under hot/humid conditions)

BV S1052 No noticeable change on sticker and residual adhesive left on test fabric.

All color fabrics in garment order

BHT Content ASTM D4275 Less than 25 ppm Each sticker type



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Yarn Testing - Production Number of Samples Required for Testing: 2.5 yards 1st color minimum width 36”

1 yard each additional color minimum width 36” 1 cone, 10 yards minimum

Yarn in Yarn Form

Production Stage (including yarn testing protocol)

• All yarns purchased by Ann Taylor must be tested in accordance with the full Basic Yarn Testing Package and include the (Basic Yarn Test Package) prior to shipment from the suppliers.

• Samples in all colors from the first bulk production must be submitted to an Ann Taylor approved

testing laboratory for evaluation. • “Unfinished” yarn

o To be performed by country sourcing the yarn and only required if sourcing country is different than country manufacturing the garment

o Physical testing—cone of yarn should be submitted to the laboratory.

o Colorfastness testing--basic jersey knitdown should be submitted to the laboratory

• “Finished” Yarn:

o To be performed by country manufacturing the garment. o Production yarn must be submitted as a knitdown in the correct color, stitch/gauge and finish {washing, brushing, printing, etc} to the laboratory for evaluation.

• For 100% Cashmere only, add the following tests on the fiber itself:

Diameter of Fiber (ASTM D2130) Fiber Length (ASTM D1575)



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Yarn in Yarn Form - Production Specification #719

Required test Test Method Required

Standard Notes

PHYSICAL

CHARACTERISTICS

FIBER CONTENT AATCC 20/20AASTMD276/629

Single fiber: No tolerance Blends: +/- 3%

Test one solid and all top-dyed mélanges.

YARN SIZE

ASTM D1059 +/- 10%against claimed

One color only

TWIST PER INCH


One color only

YARN STRENGTH


One color only

COLORFASTNESS/ PERFORMANCE

pH AATCC 81 White (bleached), Wool/wool blends: 4.5-7 Others: 6-8

All colors

COLORFASTNESS TO LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING

AATCC 611A - hand wash 2A - machine wash 40 C - cold 49 C - warm AATCC 132

MinimumColor change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5

All colors

COLORFASTNESS TO NON-CHLORINE BLEACH

AATCC TS-001

MinimumColor change: 4

All colors Washable fabrics

COLORFASTNESS TO CHLORINE BLEACH

AATCC TS-001 MinimumColor change: 4

All colors Washable fabrics

COLORFASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION

AATCC 15

MinimumColor change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5

All colors

COLORFASTNESS TO CROCKING

AATCC 8, 116 Minimum (wet/dry)Light: 3/4 Medium/dark: 2.5/3.5 Pigment/ sulfur 2/3 sueded (brushed, peached, sanded)

All colors (except white)Lab discretion on light colors and certain neutrals

COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT AATCC 16 Option 3 20 hours

MinimumLight/neutral colors: 3.5 All others: 4

All colors (except lining/pocketing fabrics)



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Yarn in Knitted Form

Testing at Production Stage. Full Garment to be performed by country manufacturing the garment.

- Must be performed on a finished garment at manufacturing stage. - One color per style - Every stitch and gauge Specification #720


PHYSICAL

FIBER CONTENT AATCC 20/20A ASTM D276/629

Single Fiber: No tolerance Blends: +/- 3%

One color only When applicable, due to construction, embellishments, trims, etc,

PERFORMANCE

FLAMMABILITY 16 CFR 1610 Class 1 One color only (See“Performance Specifications-Flammability for details)

BURSTING STRENGTH ASTM D3786 Minimum (psi) Fabric Weight: <4.0 oz/sq yard: 40 4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 50 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 55 Lace: 35 Sweaters: 50

One color only

PILLING ASTM D3512 Random Tumble (30 minutes) Sweaters and Animal Fibers: BS EN ISO 12945 Part 1 (4 hours) Specialty animal fibers: 2 hours

All others: 3.5 Polyester/nylon: 3 Class 3.5 Class 3.5

Woven/knit: One color only Knit/sweater only: If failure, test 2 additional colors


ASTM D2594 use “Growth” for pass/fail determination; “Recovery” for informational purposes only

In stretch direction only : For samples with elastic content > 10% (60 sec.) Recovery: 85% Growth: 5% For samples with elastic content < 10% (1hr.) Recovery: 70% Growth: 7%

Stretch only One color only



Length x Width (max. %) Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x -10/+3 Poly/Nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Sweaters: -5/+3 x -5/+3

One color only Washable fabrics; Dryclean only (hand wash)


AATCC 158, 1 cycle

Length x Width (max. %) -3/+2 x -3/+2 Sweaters: -5/+2 x -5/+2

One color only Dryclean fabrics


AATCC 135/158, as per care (3 cycles/ 1 cycle)

Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance

One color only

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY /APPEARANCE AFTER STEAM PRESS

Coteco No visual change in appearance Length x Width (max %) -3/+2 x -3/+2

Dryclean/dryclean only garments One color only Not required for sweaters



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Fabric Production Testing Number of Samples Required for Testing: 2.5 yards 1st color, minimum width 36”.1 yard each additional color, Minimum width 36” Responsibility of Fabric Suppliers • The fabric supplier is responsible for testing all fabrics according to the Ann Taylor requirements prior

to shipment from the mill and for the costs of such tests. • The full basic textile package must be done on the first production dye lot of each fabric. Test report

will be valid for two seasons. (Ann Taylor will specify if any additional tests must be done depending on the fabric). For each quality textile, only one color is required to be fully tested in accordance with the full basic textile testing package. Each additional color of the same quality is only required to be tested for all applicable colorfastness tests (see “Performance Specification Sheets/Testing Protocols” for details).

• The tests must be done by an Ann Taylor designated commercial laboratory. All required fabric

information must be given to the laboratory (see “Ann Taylor Test Request Form—Fabric”). • In addition, the fabric supplier must test each dye lot internally to assure that all fabrics meet the

requirements. These test reports do not have to be submitted to Ann Taylor, but the supplier must keep them for review by Ann Taylor personnel if problems arise.

• For garments produced at vertically integrated manufacturing plants, the factory is required to submit

both the textiles and garments independently for evaluation in accordance with both the full basic textile and garment testing packages.

Note: All colors must be tested prior to ordering care labels. Labels may vary per color and must be ordered per lab test report recommendations. Final care label depends on how the garment as whole performs (and confirmed by the garment test).

General Fabric Testing Requirements • All fabric testing must be done according to the Performance Specification Sheets/Test Protocols

(including “Additional Testing”, when applicable). • The fabric supplier must submit all fabrics from the first production dye lot each season. • Any care label referenced must be selected from the list of Ann Taylor standard care labels. Any

deviation must be approved by the NY Director of Fabric and Testing. • Fabric used for trim, lining, etc. must undergo the same testing procedures as regular fabrics. • All tests must be performed according to the test procedures listed (i.e. AATCC, ASTM, etc.). • All fabrics submitted must be representative of all finishing processes it will be subject to during

manufacturing (i.e., stone/antique washing, garment washing, flocking, printing, etc).

• For washed programs (such as indigo-dyed denim and heavy garment washed fabrics), before- and after- wash testing are required (see below for details).

Before-Wash Testing

• Bursting strength (knits) • Fabric weight • Fabric count • Fiber content



30

• Flammability (see “Performance Specifications—Flammability” for details) • Pile retention (corduroy, velvet, velour only) • Pilling resistance (knits / wovens) • Abrasion—denim only • Seam slippage (wovens) • Stretch and Recovery (fabrics containing stretch fibers, such as Spandex,

Lastol, Elasterell-p) • Tearing strength (wovens) • Tensile strength (wovens) • Yarn size (only if requested) • Spray Test—only

if claiming “water repellent”

• Rain Test—only if classified rainwear”

SEE “PERFORMANCE SPECIFICATION SHEETS/TEST PROTOCOLS” FOR STANDARDS AND TEST METHODS. After-Wash/Finish Testing

See “Performance Specification Sheets/Test Protocols” for full testing, standards, and test methods.

Note 1: The fabric supplier/manufacturer is responsible for the charges incurred in testing the fabric “before-wash/finish” (see below). Note 2: The garment manufacturer is responsible for the charges incurred in testing the fabric “after-wash/finish” (see Performance Specification Sheets/Test Protocols). Note 3: The garment manufacturer is responsible for the charges incurred in testing the garments after the wash/finish.

• All colorfastness tests are done against AATCC multifiber #10 (except crocking) unless otherwise stated in the testing protocols. Multifiber #1 should be used if rayon or silk is present in the fabric. Multifiber # 10 & #1 will be used if acrylic and silk and/or rayon are present in the fabric. (Note: If the results are marginal and the fabric is used in a critical combination, then the tests should be repeated against the actual component fabrics used in a garment).

• For color-blocked items, it is recommended that mock-ups be made in all colorways and submitted for colorfastness testing before fabric shipment.

• Fabrics must be washed/dried three times, or drycleaned one time for all shrinkage and appearance tests.

• Please review carefully the requirements for flammability testing in this section.

• Colorfastness to laundering: Hand washables: AATCC 61-1A Hand wash cold: test performed at 40 C Hand wash warm: test performed at 49 C Machine washables: AATCC 61-2A Machine wash cold: test performed at 40 C Machine wash warm: test performed at 49 C

• All Fabrics containing metal/metallic, in addition to all applicable basic tests must also be subject to further construction analysis: 1) number of yarns used to weave/knit fabric & number of plies/yarn and 2) fiber content by weight of each yarn.



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Garment Production Testing Number of Samples Required for Testing: 3 Garments

Responsibility of Garment Suppliers The garment supplier is responsible for all garments to be tested according to the Ann Taylor requirements (full Basic Garment Testing Package) and for the costs of such tests. The factory must send a representative garment from the beginning of their bulk production to an Ann Taylor designated commercial laboratory.

• All the required garment information must be given to the laboratory (see “Ann Taylor Test Request Form—Garment”)

• Additional garments must be sent to the laboratory if needed (consult with lab).

*NOTE: Production garments must have all production trim/embellishments attached. If a total of 3 garments are not sent, the testing lab will contact the requestor for the additional garment. The testing lab will not proceed with the garment test until both garments have been received.

Garment Test The purpose of garment testing is to evaluate all the different components of a garment together while being cleaned three times (one time for drycleaning) according to the care label. We are looking for appearance, bleeding, puckering, shrinkage, or anything that would make the garment look or feel undesirable. Special attention should be paid to trims, accessories, and garment prints.

Care labels submitted must be taken from the Ann Taylor standard care labels. Any deviation must be approved by the NY Director of Fabric and Testing.

The garment test will also evaluate the strength of all seams, stress points, and trim attachments, as well as verify the care instructions and fiber content labeling. For fiber content label, fiber content must be tested in fabric stage and verified at garment stage on all styles prior to order labels.

For zipper(s) that is/are attached to the garment, the operability, chain crosswise, top stop holding, bottom stop holding and holding strength of slider lock tests are required.

The garment test must be performed by an Ann Taylor designated commercial laboratory. See “Approved Laboratories for AT Softline Product”.

Production textiles in all colors must be tested prior to submitting samples for garment testing. The garment testing does not replace the required fabric tests but is in addition to these. The fabric tests are important because problems with such items as tensile strength, light fastness, colorfastness to perspiration, chlorine, seawater, etc. are not revealed by our garment test.

Garments must be tested in the production stage and test report will be valid for two seasons. The testing must be done after the garment is completely finished, including “garment wash”, “enzyme wash”, “stone wash”, etc, if applicable.

See “Performance Specification Sheets/Testing Protocols” for a list of the required tests.

If garment dye/garment finished – need to add colorfastness tests.



32

Colorfastness to crocking test is required to be performed on all denim production garments. If dry crocking does not meet dry crocking Class 3, or wet crocking class 2, wash garment 1X according to the care label of garment and repeat crocking test. If the crocking improves to a satisfactory rating, the fabric can be accepted provided that the care instruction is modified to include “wash before wearing” (before all other instructions).

The cost of the testing is the responsibility of the garment supplier. This procedure does not relieve the garment supplier of his responsibility to assure the performance of the garments by total internal quality control throughout the production cycle. Each type/style of garment must be tested (in the correct textile quality), especially if different kinds of trim and different fabrics are used together in the same garment.

• It is not necessary to test every color combination, but all critical color combinations must be tested o Combinations of bright/deep colors with white/cream. o Pay special attention to contrasting trim o All combinations of “red” with other light colors must always be tested because

this is the color most like to bleed. o All color contrast combinations with fabrics that are known to be marginal in

colorfastness (from fabric tests) must be tested.

• For color-blocked items, it is recommended that mock-ups be made in all colorways and submitted for colorfastness testing before fabric shipment.

If the same garment style is made by more than one supplier, it must be tested individually from each supplier.



33

TEST REQUEST PROCEDURES

PROCEDURE FOR REQUESTING TESTING SERVICES

The following is the standard operating procedure for processing test requests. Ann Taylor Request Form

In order to process your requests as quickly as possible, it is imperative that all testing be submitted on an Ann Taylor Test Request Form (see page 35-37) to an approved testing laboratory (see “Approved Laboratories for Ann Taylor Softlines Product”). Request forms must be filled out completely and accurately at the time of submission, including:

• Fiber Content – Do not abbreviate. Must use proper FTC generic names for fiber(s). If the product contains a trade name fiber, it must be listed in conjunction with the appropriate FTC generic name.

• Quality/Style Number – For trim, yarn, and textiles, use the raw material supplier’s quality identification number. For garments/finished products, use the assigned Ann Taylor style number.

• Color – Identify using Ann Taylor approved name(s) and number(s). • AT Division – Must indicate as appropriate--either Stores, Loft, or Factory Stores. • AT Department number - Must indicate appropriate 2 digit AT department number. • All trim, fabric, and garment details as listed on the test request forms.

• Requestor name/telephone/fax/e-mail – Must indicate the full name of person requesting testing including telephone number, fax number, and e-mail address.

• Proposed Care Instructions – Must be included, and should reference AT standard care instructions. If proposed care instructions indicate laundering, must include wash temperature and cycle, bleaching instructions, dry temperature and cycle, and ironing instructions. If care instructions are unknown, please indicate “lab to provide”. .

• Service requested –Check appropriate box. • Requested testing

1) Must advise if sample is Development or Production. 2) Must select type of testing.

a) Basic Test Package - no additional information is required. b) Additional Color Test Only – must also advise previous full basic test report

number. c) Retest - must also advise previous report number and the failed property

(properties) that are to be re-tested. d) Other - must specify requested test(s). e) Garment Test -must also advise corresponding fabric and trim test report

numbers. • Product Category - Check all appropriate boxes. • Billing Information - Must be fully completed including: company name, address,

contact name, telephone number and fax number. • AT Contact Name - Must be included

Note: Request forms must be fully completed before the laboratories are able to process

your request. It is important to note that the information provided on the request form is required by Ann Taylor for product tracking purposes and will determine which performance standard to apply to your product.



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Requests received without all the required information cannot be processed and will be

handled as follows:

• Testing Services Coordinator will contact the supplier via telephone, fax and/or e-mail and request the required information.

• The requestor will be notified and a “Hold” status will be placed on the request. • The sample and all paperwork will be held for two working days. • Should the supplier fail to reply within the two-day time period, the request will be

“Canceled” and the requestor will be notified for disposition of samples. • Upon receipt of required information/samples, the request will be reprocessed and

the “revised date” will appear on the Request form as well as on the Test report.

Processing Routine Requests for Testing:

The following summarizes the standard procedure for processing routine test requests. The Testing Service will test only what is requested in accordance with Ann Taylor standards and policy. When a submission is received that does not fall within the guidelines below, the requestor will be notified prior to the start of testing.

I. Initial Submissions:

Testing service will test only what is requested by the supplier, as stated in the request

form!

• Requests for all “Basic Package” testing will override all other requests for testing. • In cases where fabric and/or garment package testing does not include all special testing

requested, the additional tests will be included along with the standard test package. • In cases where fabric and/or garment package testing has not been requested, only the

tests specified will be performed. • Please state weight in fabric oz/sq. yd, g/m2 or sweater garment lbs/dz. Do not

abbreviate care instructions or fiber content. • Garment testing and additional colorway testing must have the original report numbers

referenced, otherwise the requests will be placed on “Hold”.

II. Retest Submissions:

For retest submissions include previous report number and specify which test needs to be performed. Retest submissions received without a previous report number listed and without specific instructions included, will be handled using the “Hold” criteria listed above.

Note: Any variations to standard BV testing procedures will be outlined in the “executive summary” section of the corresponding test report.

III. Ann Taylor Testing Service Options:

The network of testing laboratories makes every effort to evaluate products in the shortest possible time.

• Regular Service: 3 working days, beginning the day after the laboratory receives the samples. (Normal fee applied)

• Priority Service: 2 working days, beginning the day after the laboratory receives the samples. (Normal fee + 40% surcharge applied)

• Express Service: 1 working day, beginning the day after the laboratory receives the samples. This only applies to tests that can be processed and submitted within 1 working day (normal fee + 50% surcharge applied).



35

Testing for “Priority” and “Express” services are limited only to those tests that can be completed within the specified service time. Requests received, with either of these services selected, requiring a test(s) that falls outside of the service parameters, will follow on a separate report and the vendor and appropriate requestor personnel will be notified. Use the express service option only when necessary to minimize reporting delays created by a significant increase in "special" service requests. Full package testing cannot be completed with Express Service.

*Notes: • If due to tests required, more than the requested service is needed to complete

testing, the lab must communicate to the requestor within 24 hours of receipt of the sample what the expected completion date will be.

• All package program testing will be completed within the regular service except:

1) Swimwear: colorfastness to light (40 hours) – require 5 days 2) Products containing feather/down – require 7 days 3) Leather Products – require 7 days 4) Products made of fiber or fiber blends requiring microscopic analysis – require 5

days. 5) Trim testing that involves nickel release test---require 10 days 6) Labels: durability to 50 launderings and 5 drycleanings – require 5 days. 7) Washable Merino Wool – 10 Washes requires 4 days 8) Easy Care in 5x, 10x, 25x washes requires 8 days minimum

Ann Taylor Test Result Ratings

Each test property as well as the overall rating of the final report will be based on the following Ann Taylor established rating system:

APPROVED APPROVED WITH TOLERANCE - may proceed. REJECTED - should not proceed.



36

APPROVED LABORATORIES FOR ANN TAYLOR SOFTLINES

PRODUCTS

APPROVED LABORATORIES FOR ANN TAYLOR SOFTLINES PRODUCTS Ann Taylor has selected Bureau Veritas Consumer Product Services, Inc. (BVCPS) as the primary service provider. Ann Taylor also recognizes test reports from Intertek Labtest Testing Services (ITS) when pre-approved by Director of Fabric and Testing, New York. Except in the above situation, all product testing should be directed to Bureau Veritas Consumer Product Testing Services Group. In certain countries where Bureau Veritas Product Services does not have an approved testing laboratory, testing should be directed to the nearest approved Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services laboratory. The following laboratories have been approved by Ann Taylor to conduct laboratory consumer testing in accordance to Ann Taylor performance standards. The approved laboratory and contact information is listed below. Please note that not all laboratories are approved to conduct all tests, see (*).

CHINA Bureau Veritas Consumer Product Services (Shanghai)

Softline Divisions

Address: No.168, Guanghua Road, Zhuanqiao Town, Minhang, Shanghai, China. Post Code: 201108 Tel: 86-21-2408188 Fax: 86-21-64890042 E-mail: [email protected] Contact: Alvin Fung Intertek Testing Services Shanghai Ltd.

(Exclusively on specialty & luxury animal fiber products such as alpaca, cashmere, camel hair, mohair, Angora rabbit, mink etc.) Address: 2nd Floor, Nr. 2 Building, Shanghai Comalong Industrial Park Nr. 9 Yishan Road, Shanghai, China 200233 Tel: 86-21-6120-6060 Fax: 86-21-6485-0592 Contact: Ms. Linda Shi, General Manager Email: [email protected]

HONG KONG Bureau Veritas Hong Kong Ltd.

Consumer Product Services (Kwai Chung Office)

Address: Unit 1314, Vantas Industrial Centre, 21-33 Tai Lin Pai Road, Kwai Chung, N.T., Hong Kong Tel: 852-2418-1222 Fax: 852-2485-1125 E-mail: [email protected] Contact: Bonnie Chung

INDIA - NOIDA Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services (India) Pvt. Ltd. Address: F-5, Sector VIII, Noida 201 301, Gautam Buddnagar Uttar Pradesh, India Tel: 91-120-2424878 Fax: 91-120-2424880 E-mail: [email protected] Contact: Paromita Roy



37

INDIA - BANGALORE Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services (India) Pvt. Ltd. Add: 1-2-3, Mereside Heights (1st floor), Pai Layout, Old Madras Road Benniganahalli, Bangalore—16, Karnataka—India Tel: 0091-80-28531432 Fax: 0091-80-28531397 Email: [email protected] Contact: Niraj Singh INDONESIA PT. Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services Indonesia

Mailing Address

Add: Jl. Cideng Timur No.38 Gedung KKM, 2nd Floor, Jakarta Pusat 10130, Indonesia Tel: 62-21-634-8877 Fax: 62-21-634-8838 E-mail: [email protected] Contact: Darwi Tandiono ITALY ICQ Global SRL Add: Via Europa N. 28, 22060, Cabiate (CO) Italy Tel: 39-031-768-403 Fax: 39-031-756-106 E-mail: [email protected] Contact: Pamela Villa Bureau Veritas/Brachi Lab.

Laboratio di Analisi Prove e Ricereche Tessil

Add : Via Fonda di Mezzana 61/L 59100 Prato Tel : +0574591343 Fax : +0574593975

Main Contact in Brachi: Giancarlo DI BLASI (0574 – 591343) malto:[email protected]

Main Contact in BV (Milano): Stefano Vaccari (02 – 27091 214) mailto:[email protected]

BUZZI - Textile Laboratory

(Exclusively on specialty & luxury animal fiber products such as alpaca, cashmere, camel hair, mohair, Angora rabbit, mink etc.) Add: Viale della Repubblica, 9-59100 Prato - Italy Tel: 39-0574-589-887 Fax: 39-0574-589-890 E-mail: [email protected]



38

JAPAN-TOKYO c/o Japan Synthetic Textile Inspection Institute Foundation Add: 4-4-20, Hongokucho, Nihonbashi, Chuo-Ku, Tokyo 103-0021, Japan Tel: 81-3-3241-7319 Fax: 81-3-3245-0773 E-mail: [email protected] Contact: Mr. Takuo Ishizuka JAPAN-OSAKA c/o Japan Synthetic Textile Inspection Institute Foundation Add: 2-5-19, Edobori, Nishi-Ku, Osaka 550-0002, Japan Tel: 81-6-6441-0310 Fax: 81-6-6441-0323 E-mail: [email protected] Contact: Norihiko Nakayama KOREA KOTITI (Softlines Only) Add: 819-5, Yoksam-1Dong, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul, Korea Tel: 822-3451-7000 Fax: 822-3451-7172 E-mail: [email protected], [email protected] Contact: Mr. Kyu Huh, Dr. Young Kim KEMTI (Hardlines Only)

Add: 459-28, Gasan-Dong, Geumcheon-Gu, Seoul, Korea Tel: 82-2-2102-2553, 2554 Fax: 82-2-856-6181 E-mail: [email protected] Contact Person: Hoyoung Kim, Dongjoon Kim PHILIPPINES Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services Philippines Inc.

Add: 8439 S. Super Highway, West Service Road Paranaque City, Philippines Tel: 632-824-2825 Fax: 632-824-1430 E-mail: [email protected] Contact: Ms. Carmela Babor SINGAPORE Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services (Pte) Ltd.

Add: 11 UBI Road 1, Meiban Industrial Building, #07-01 Singapore 408723 Tel: 65-6283-8366 Fax: 65-6283-8966 E-mail: [email protected] Contact: Ms. Joeie Tsang



39

SRI LANKA Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services (Lanka) Private Ltd.

Add: 270 Dehiwela Road, Bellanwila, Sri Lanka Tel: 94-11-2739546 Fax: 94-11-2739548 E-mail: [email protected] Contact: Ms. Chanaki De Costa

TAIWAN Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services (Hong Kong) Ltd.

– Taiwan Branch Add: The AETNA Tower, 2F(2A1), No. 37, Zhongyang S. Road, Sec. 2, Beitou, Taipei, 112, Taiwan R.O.C. Tel: 886-2-2895-3666 Fax: 886-2-2895-6999 E-mail: [email protected] Contact: Jane Lo THAILAND Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services (Thailand) Ltd.

Add: 2410 Sukhumvit Road Phrahanong, Bangkok 10206, Thailand Tel: 662-7447200 Fax: 662-7447202 E-mail: [email protected] Contact: Mr. Poomthavatch Sukanhaketu (Poom) TURKEY BVCPS Test Laboratuvarlari Ltd. Sti. Add: Mehmet Akif Mah., Express Cad., Can Sok., No: 31, KAT:3, Ikitelli, Istanbul, Turkey Tel: 90-212-4943535 Fax: 90-212-494-3560 E-mail: [email protected] Contact: Atanur Dikmen USA Currently no nominated Lab in the USA.



40

ANN TAYLOR TEST PACKAGE PRICES – SOFTLINES

DESCRIPTION EUROPE FAR EAST / MEXICO Yarn Development $115* $92* Production $145* $112* -Additional Color (initial submit) $41 $31 -Separate Color Submit $77 $62 Fabric Development $125* $105* Production (Before Wash – for washed programs)

$75* $55*

Production (After Wash) $160* $135* -Additional Color (initial submit) $47 $35 -Separate Color Submit $77 $62 Garment (excluding leather cleaning cost)

$77* $62*

- Denim - Others

- $77*

$70* $62*

Trims Non-Metallic $70* $46* Metal $290* $152* Zippers $140* $65* Patches, appliqués, twill tapes, etc $60* $24* Down and Feather $345* $285* Rubber and Soft Plastic Patches $125* $85* Size Sticker - $154* * Does not include additional charges see below: ADDITIONAL CHARGES FOR YARN & TEXTILE

USA / EUROPE FAR EAST / MEXICO

Quantitative Fiber Analysis Per Fiber (Chemical) $47 $13 -Each Additional fiber (chemical) $47 $13 Per Fiber (Microscopic) $232 $98 -Each Additional fiber (microscopic) $72 $36 Fiber Content/Yarn–Metallic Fabrics Only $47 per fiber $26 per fiber Fiber Length $150 $102 Flammability $88 $30 Ozone (1 cycle) $80 $23 Burnt Gas fumes (1 cycle) $90 $23 pH $26 $16 Stretch & Recovery $78 $16 Narrow Elastic Performance $55 $16 Bra Band Elongation $55 $10 Pile Retention $36 $14 Shedding Propensity $55 $32 Colorfastness to Sea Water $21 $7 Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool $21 $11 Formaldehyde (Quantitative) $78 $32



41

ADDITIONAL CHARGES FOR TRIMS EUROPE FAR EAST / MEXICO Dimensional Stability to Laundering $57 $32 Dimensional Stability to Drycleaning $42 $22 Colorfastness and Appearance after Washing

$70 $45 (including 3 sizes/shapes)

Colorfastness and Appearance after Drycleaning

$78 $55 (including 3 sizes/shapes)

Colorfastness to Crocking $16 $10 Colorfastness to Perspiration $21 $15 Colorfastness and Appearance after Exposure to Sea Water

$25 $15

Colorfastness and Appearance after Exposure to Chlorinated Pool Water

$30 $20

Durability to Impact during Laundering $60 $35 (including 3 sizes/shapes) Button Centre Strength $25 $12 Snap Action $25 $11 Heavy Metal $125 $45 Nickel Test (Complete) $125 per component $58 per component Nickel Test (Pre Abrasion) $17 per component $13 per component Corrosion Resistance $60 $38 Phthalates (in PVC) $150 $85 Cadmium Content $75 $24 BHT Content $125 $82 Lead Content $52 per color $24 per color NOTE: 1. PRICES SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTIFICATION 2. MINIMUM CHARGE PER REPORT: $50.00



42

ANN TAYLOR INDIVIDUAL TEST PRICES

SOFTLINES (All prices are in US Dollar)

TEST ITEM TEST METHOD USA/EUROPE FAR

EAST/MEXICO

Fabric Weight Yield ASTM D3776 $21 $12 Twist Per Inch ASTM D3775 $52 $15 Thread Count ASTM D3775 $16 $14 Yarn Size ASTM D1059 /

D1907 $31 $18

Fabric Type / Weave Visual $11 $11 Yarn Structure Visual $11 $11 Dimensional Stability

3 Handwashes $44 3 M/C Washes / 5 M/C Washes AATCC 135 /150 $57 / $78 $37 / $48 1 Drycleaning Commercial $42 $23

Flammability General Apparel 16 CFR PART

1610 $88 $46

Abrasion Resistance ASTM D3886 $31 $16 Pilling Resistance

Random Tumble ASTM D3512 $36 $17 Tensile Strength (Length / Width) ASTM D5034 $31 $16 Tear Strength (Length / Width) ASTM D1424 /

D2261 $31 $16

Bursting Strength ASTM D3787 $26 $16 pH AATCC 81 $26 $17 Seam Strength ASTM D1683 $31 $12 Per Seam Yarn Slippage ASTM D1683 $47 $34 Seam Stretchability AATCC TS 015 $31 $12 Per Seam Stretch & Recovery ASTM D3107/

ASTM D2594 $78 $26

Spray Test AATCC 22 $21 $14 Rain Test

Rain Test AATCC 35 $40 $31 Wash / Drycleaning AATCC 35 $55 $42

Effects of Washing 3 /5/10/25 Washes Per Care Label $47 / $67 / $129/$295 $42 / $59 / $98/

$233 Each Additional Wash $11 $9 Effects of Drycleaning Per Care Label $36 $30



43

ANN TAYLOR INDIVIDUAL TEST PRICES

SOFTLINES (ALL PRICES ARE IN US DOLLAR)

TEST ITEM TEST METHOD EUROPE FAR EAST/

MEXICO

Colorfastness Properties Laundering AATCC 61 $26 $12 Drycleaning AATCC 132 $26 $16 Light AATCC 16E (10 hours) $20 $12 (20 Hours) $31 $18 (40 Hours) $62 $34 Perspiration AATCC 15 $21 $15 Water AATCC 107 $21 $10 Crocking (Dry / Wet) AATCC 8/116 $16 $10 Sea Water AATCC 106 $21 $12 Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 $21 $18 Chlorine Bleach AATCC TS-001 $21 $10 Non-Chlorine Bleach AATCC TS-001 $21 $13 Burnt Gas fumes (1 Cycle) AATCC 23 $75 $23 Ozone (1 Cycle) AATCC 109 $75 $23

Fiber Content Chemical Method AATCC 20A/ASTM D629 $47/Fiber $14 Microscopic Method AATCC 20A/ASTM D629 $232 / First $100

ASTM D2130 $72 / Additional $37 Air Permeability ASTM D737 $85 $26 Breathability ASTM E96 $150 $23 Absorbency AATCC 79 $50 $12 Wicking BV Method $64 $12 UV Transmittance ASTM D6603 $150 $10 Lead Content 16 CFR 1303, ASTM

E1613/E1645 (Mod.) $52 / Color $25

Heat Aging BV S-1052 - $72 Formaldehyde Qualitative Spot Test - $16 Quantitative JIS L1041 - $48 Type of Dye / Finish / Coating IR SPECTRA $129 $60 AZO DYE EN14362-2 $129 $57 Wrinkle Free

Fabric / Seams AATCC 143 $98 $82 Fabric only AATCC 124 $55 $42

Fit Properties Socks HTC Method $98 / Size Pantyhose HTC Method $129 / Size

Snap Action ASTM D4846 52 (first garment/10 snaps)

$43

36 (add'l garment/ 10 snaps)

$31

NOTE: 1. PRICES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTIFICATION 2. MINIMUM CHARGE PER REPORT: $50.00



44

ANN TAYLOR ADULT TEST REQUEST FORM—TRIM

Service Requested: Regular (3 working days) Priority (2 working days on selective tests)

Trim Information Season Trim Supplier Garment Facility/ Factory Supplier Trim Number Detailed Sample Description Sample Style Number P.O. Number Color/ Color Combination Internally Dyed/ Dyed to Match Coating/ Paint Size Material Nickel-free (Yes/No) Submitted Care Instructions Sample Status Trim Test Requested

Development

Production

Basic Package

Additional Color or Size

Other (Specify tests: )

Retest* - Test Item(s) Previous Test Report #

* Must explain below what improvement was made if retest is for previous restricted substances failure(s)

Non-Metallic Patches, appliqués, twill tapes, etc. Feather & Down Metallic Rubber and soft plastic patches Label Zippers Other (Please specify) Size Sticker

Required Additional Information

Previous Complete Report # Comments/Special Instructions

Billing information Company: Contact: Address: Telephone: Fax:

Corporate Policy: All vendors supplying finished products to Ann Taylor for confirmed production orders are required to incur the cost of all production testing, including the cost of merchandise destroyed during the testing process. Development testing will be charged back to your department. Priority service is available upon request after 48 hours of lab receipt at 40% surcharge.

Applicant’s Test Order Number: __________

Contact Information

Division Department # Vendor/Supplier Vendor Code # Requestor Name Telephone Fax E-mail AT Office/Agent Contact



45

ANN TAYLOR ADULT TEST REQUEST FORM—FABRIC/ YARN

Service Requested: Regular (3 working days) Priority (2 working days on selective tests)

Fabric Information

Season

Fabric (or Yarn) Supplier

RMID #/Fabric Quality/Style Number

P.O. Number

Type of Fabric (Woven/Knit)

Construction (i.e. twill, jersey, etc.)

Fabric Weight

Fiber Content

Yarn Dye/Piece Dye

Finishing Applied

Color(s) Submitted Care Instructions

Sample Status Item(s) to be Tested Fabric Test Requested

Development

Production

Fabric

Yarn (in yarn form)

Yarn (in knitted form)

Basic Package

Additional Color


Retest * - Test Item(s) Previous Test Report #


Product Category

Top/Dress/Jacket Bottom Sweater Active/ Swim Outerwear Intimate Sleepwear Denim Leather Suits/ Coordinates


Previous Complete Test Report # Comments/Special Instructions

Billing information

Company: Contact:

Address: Telephone: Fax:

Corporate Policy: All vendors supplying finished products to Ann Taylor for confirmed production orders are required to incur the cost of all production testing, including the cost of merchandise destroyed during the testing process. Development testing will be charged back to your department. Priority service is available upon request after 48 hours of lab receipt at 40% surcharge. Note: This request form must be fully completed before the laboratories are able to process your request. Any incomplete data results in time delay.

Contact Information

Division

Department #

Vendor/Supplier

Vendor Code #

Requestor Name

Telephone

Fax

E-mail

AT Office/Agent Contact

Applicant’s Test Order Number: ___________



46

ANN TAYLOR ADULT TEST REQUEST FORM—GARMENT

Service Requested: Regular (3 working days) Priority (2 working days on selective test(s)

Garment Information

Season

Garment Facility (factory)

Style Number

P.O. Number

Reference Style # (if applicable)

Garment Description

Fiber Content

Color/ Color Combination

Garment Finish (i.e. garment wash, etc.)

Submitted Care Instructions Sample Status Garment Test Requested

Development

Production

Basic Package


Retest * - Test Item(s) Previous Test Report #


Product Category

Top/Dress/Jacket Bottom Sweater Suits/ Coordinates Denim Intimate Sleepwear Active/ Swim Outerwear Leather


Previous Complete Test Report # Comments/Special Instructions Billing information

Company: Contact:

Address: Telephone: Fax:

Corporate Policy: All vendors supplying finished products to Ann Taylor for confirmed production orders are required to incur the cost of all production testing, including the cost of merchandise destroyed during the testing process. Development testing will be charged back to your department. Priority service is available upon request after 48 hours of lab receipt at 40% surcharge. Note: This request form must be fully completed before the laboratories are able to process your request. Any incomplete data results in time delay.

Contact Information

Division

Department #

Vendor/Supplier

Vendor Code #

Requestor Name

Telephone

Fax

E-mail

AT Office/Agent Contact

Applicant’s Test Order Number: ______________



47

PRODUCT PERFORMANCE

The following performance standards and testing protocols were developed to effectively analyze and monitor the physical characteristics of trims, yarns, textiles, and garments to ensure their compliance with all federal, state, international and local requirements. The standards and procedures were developed based on actual physical test data and in accordance with guidelines established by the:

• American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) • American Society of Testing and Materials (ASTM) • British Standards (BS) • Code of Federal Regulations (CFR) • Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) • Fair Packaging and Labeling Act (FPLA) • Federal Trade Commission (FTC) • Food and Drug Administration (FDA)

These specifications will be updated periodically to reflect changes in technology and data available or as new fibers / fabrications are developed.

The fabric performance standards listed in this manual are generally suitable for the garment applications stated. However, each individual garment must be reviewed for special requirements.

All suppliers are required to ensure that their products meet these performance specifications. If a product cannot meet these specifications, the supplier is required to notify Ann Taylor in writing prior to the placement of an order for that product.

The garment manufacturer must report any problems with the fabric, trim, accessories, or the design/construction of the garment to the regional Ann Taylor Production Office/Agent and suggest ways to correct the problem.

COLORFASTNESS:

The supplier must take every possible step to assure that the colorfastness requirements are met. Such steps include, but are not limited to, the selection of the best dyestuffs available, extra rinsing, dye fixation, etc.

Note: All cotton fabrics must be dyed with reactive or vat dyes. Indigo dyes can be used where applicable. Sulfur or direct dyes are not acceptable, unless specifically requested by Ann Taylor for special effects.

WATER RESISTANCE:

In order for a garment to qualify for the special “water resistance” classification/duty, it must be coated with a rubber or plastic application AND pass a water resistance test (AATCC 35; < 1 gram). The water resistance MUST be a direct result of the rubber or plastic application. FIBER CONTENT

All analyses for fiber content are to use AATCC 20, 20A, ASTM D276 & D629.



48

FLAMMABILITY

All fabrics and (fabric) trims must meet the requirements of the United States Flammable Fabrics Act, Class 1 (Consumer Product Safety Commission, Standard 16 CFR 1610).

Note 1: If “anti-flammability” chemical finishes are used, then the supplier must notify Ann Taylor. Special testing will be required. Note 2: Although certain types of trims are too small to be tested for flammability at trim and/or garment stage, it is the supplier's responsibility to make sure all applicable trims would comply with the normal flammability requirements. It is recommended that applicable trims be tested in a larger form before proceeding with production.

a. All fabrics with an “intentionally raised fiber or yarn surface” must be tested for flammability, if

such surface is “exposed” on the garment. These are fabrics that are sanded, napped, brushed, tufted, etc. It does not matter if the raising of the fibers is done in yarn or fabric form.

The test must always be performed on the fabric side that has the raised surface, no matter which side of the fabric will be used as the “face side”. Even if the raised surface is to be used as the inside of the garment it should be tested, if there is the possibility of a consumer exposing it by the way the garment is worn (i.e. turn up the sleeves for wearing). If the garment will be lined so that the raised surface cannot be exposed, then it need not be tested.

Note: As it is not clear on the term “raised yarn surface”, such fabrics as french terry, terry, and very coarse or loose knit sweaters or coarse sweaters with loose floats should also be tested.

Exceptions: Fabrics with a raised surface do not have to be tested if they are manufactured entirely with these fibers, or blends including only these specific fibers, regardless of weight: Acrylic, Modacrylic, Nylon, Olefin, Polyester, or Wool. b. All fabrics weighing less than 2.6 oz/square yard (88 grms/square meter) must be tested unless

composed entirely of the following fibers: Acrylic, Modacrylic, Nylon, Olefin, Polyester, Wool c. Plain surface fabrics, regardless of fiber content, weighting 2.6 oz/square yard (88 grms/square

meter) or more, do not have to be tested for flammability.

d. Hats (if they do not cover the face or neck), gloves, footwear, and interlinings are exempt from flammability testing.

e. The testing requirement applies to all parts of the garment, including trim.

f. Although certain types of trims are too small to be tested for flammability at trim and /or garment

stage, it is the supplier’s responsibility to make sure all applicable trim would comply with the normal flammability requirements. It is recommended that applicable trims be tested in a larger form before proceeding with production.

g. If incorrect fiber content is claimed by the supplier, but through actual fiber analysis by the lab it is

determined that flammability testing is in fact required, this test will automatically be performed by the laboratory.

h. Anti-flammability chemicals: If such chemical finishes are used, then the supplier must notify Ann

Taylor, and special testing will be required.



49

Feather and down material must be:

• tested for composition • properly cleaned and disinfected.

Penetration Resistance of fabric:

• All fabrics intended for use in feather and down garments must pass “Penetration Resistance of cloth to feather and down”: FTMS 191, method 5530 (modified) or IDFB Method 5530.

o The test must be done with actual down/feather mix that will be used (instead of the standard 60/40 feather/down mix)

o The test report must state the down/feather composition used for the test.

• If any other fiber fill is used (i.e. polyfill or fiber batten), a representative sample of the construction must be tested.

Nickel

Any metal part that comes in prolonged contact with the skin must be “free of nickel”. Nickel-free: The requirement is a “transfer to the skin” measurement, and the standard is: <0.5 micrograms per square centimeter per week. Examples of various types of skin contact:

• Metal accessories on outerwear usually do not come in contact with the skin except maybe the back of snaps on the cuffs, etc.

• The back of rivets on pants can come in contact with the skin (but not the part of the rivet that is on the outside of the garment).

• The back of snaps on a shirt definitely can be in contact with the skin (but not the part of the snap that is on the outside of the garment).

• Metal zippers on outerwear usually do not come in contact with the skin. • Metal zippers on a sweatshirt will come in contact with the skin (unless it has a cover flap

underneath).

The garment manufacturer must order items as “nickel-free” if required. Lead

a. In accordance with 16 CFR 1303, any paint or coating used must not contain more than 0.06% (600 ppm) of lead.

Examples: • Painted buttons, snaps, zippers, etc. • Pigment prints and dyes • Coating and lamination of fabric

b. In accordance with EPA 3051 modified (San Francisco Supreme Court 317256, CGC-02-

403328 and CGC-05-440721), material containing PVC must not contain more than 30 ppm of lead.

Examples: • PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats. • Decals and attachment on clothing



50

TESTING PROTOCOLS

Ann Taylor Corporate

1. Bottoms (Career/Casual Skirt/Short/Pant) 0012. Tops, Dresses, Jackets (Career/Casual) 0023. Suits and Coordinates (Career/Casual) 0034. Outerwear 0045. Denim Apparel (Indigo-dyed) 0056. Intimates (including bras, camisoles, panties) 0067. Sleepwear 0078. Active/Swim Wear (incl. leotards, sweatshirts/tops,

sweatpants/shorts)Sweaters 008

9. Sweaters 00910. Leather 01011. Additional Testing (as applicable) 01112. Non-Metallic Trim 81213. Trims made of metal 81314. Zippers 81415. Patches, appliqués, twill tapes, etc. 81516. Down and Feather 81617. Rubber and Soft Plastic Patches 81718. Labels 56019. Size Sticker 56120. Yarn in Yarn Form 71921.Yarn in Knitted Form 720Branded & Co-branded

1. Bottoms (Career/Casual Skirt/Short/Pant) 001A2. Tops, Dresses, Jackets (Career/Casual) 002A3. Suits and Coordinates (Career/Casual) 003A4. Outerwear 004A5. Denim Apparel (Indigo-dyed) 005A6. Intimates (including bras, camisoles, panties) 006A9. Sweaters 009A



51

BOTTOMS (#001)

Page 1 of 3

(CAREER/CASUAL SKIRT/SHORT/PANT)

FABRIC TESTING Required test Test Method Required standard Notes

PHYSICAL

CHARACTERISTICS

FABRIC WEIGHT (oz/sq yard)

ASTM D3776 +/- 5% One color only

FABRIC COUNT ASTM D3775/D3887 +/- 5% One color onlyFIBER CONTENT AATCC 20/20A

ASTMD276/629 Single fiber: No tolerance Blends: +/- 3%

One color only

YARN SIZE

ASTM D1059 +/- 10% Non-stretch upon request (one color only)

PERFORMANCE FORMALDEHYDE Spot Test

MTL C1007 If positive, proceed with JIS L1041

Negative 75 ppm

One color only


All colors

FLAMMABILITY

16 CFR 1610 Class 1 One color only(see “Performance Specifications -Flammability for details)


AATCC 135, 3 cycles(as per care instructions) For “dryclean only” fabrics: Hand wash, line dry or flat dry

Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x-10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3

Woven: One color onlyKnits: All colors Washable fabrics; Dryclean only (hand wash)


AATCC 158, 1 cycle

Length x Width (max. %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2

Woven: One color onlyKnits: All colors Dryclean fabrics

APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING/DRYCLEANING



Additional evaluation of sample(s) tested for dimensional stability.



52

Bottoms #001 (page 2 of 3)

Required test Test Method Required standard NotesPerformance (cont’d)


Coteco No visual change in appearance Length x Width (max %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2

One color only

TWISTING AFTER LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING

AATCC 179 Method 1, Option 2

Woven: 3% Knit: 5%

One color only

TENSILE STRENGTH ASTM D5034 (min. lbs) General fabrics: Fabric Weight: < 4 oz/sq yard: 25 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 30 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 40 Lining/pocketing: 20

Wovens: one color only

TEAR STRENGTH ASTM D1424 (min. lbs) General fabrics: Fabric Weight: <4 oz/sq yard: 2.0 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 2.5 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 3.0 Lining: 1.8 Pocketing: 2.0


SEAM STRENGTH/SLIPPAGE

ASTM D434 (6 mm slippage) Prototype seam

(min. lbs) 20 Lining: 15 Pocketing: 20


PILLING ASTM D3512 Random Tumble Knits: 30 minutes Wovens: 1 hour BS EN ISO 12945 Part 1 Specialty animal fibers: 2 hours Other animal fibers: 4 hours

Minimum: All others: 3.5 Brushed/peached: 3 Polyester/nylon: 3 3.5 3.5

Knit/woven: One color only Knits only: If failure, test 2 additional colors.

BURSTING STRENGTH ASTM D3786 Minimum (psi) Fabric Weight: <4.0 oz/sq yard: 40 4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 50 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 55

Knits: One color only

COLORFASTNESS COLORFASTNESS TO LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING

AATCC 61/AATCC 132 1A - hand wash 2A - machine wash 40 C - cold 49 C - warm

Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5

All colors (as applicable)


AATCC TS-001

Minimum Color change: 4

Washable fabrics; All colors


AATCC TS-001 Minimum Color change: 4




53

Colorfastness, cont’d Bottoms #001 (page 3 of 3)


AATCC 15 Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5

All colors


AATCC 8, 116 Minimum (wet/dry) Light: 3/4 Medium/dark: 2.5/3.5 Pigment/ sulfur 2/3 Sueded (brushed, peached, sanded)

All colors (except white) Lab discretion on light colors and certain neutrals

COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT AATCC 16 Option 3, 20 hours Silk:10 hours

Minimum Light/neutral colors: 3.5 All others: 4


GARMENT TESTING

Required test Test Method Required standard Notes DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING/DRYCLEANING

AATCC 150, 3 cycles (as per care instructions) AATCC 158, 1 cycle

Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x-10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2






Woven: 3% Knit: 5%

SEAM STRETCHABILITY AATCC TS 015 7.0 lbs or 50% elongation Knits only All seams

SEAM STRENGTH/SLIPPAGE ASTM D1683 BV S1027 BV S1029

Minimum (lbs): 20 Stress Points: 15 Pockets (decorative/functional): 10/20 Belt loops/pleats: 10 Lining: 15 lbs

Actual seams; all seams

TRIM PERFORMANCE (Button (Attachment strength Snap attachment strength Hook & Eye/Bar attachment strength)

BV S1023 BV S1044

Minimum (lbs): 15 All on garment

ZIPPER TEST ASTM D2061 Zipper Operability Chain Crosswise Strength Top Stop Holding Holding Strength of slider lock Bottom Stop Holding (if applicable) Note: See spec. # 814 for requirements.

All zipper brands

CARE INSTRUCTIONS 16 CFR 423 Verify all care label claims

FIBER CONTENT 16 CFR 303 Verify all fiber content claims



54

Page 1 of 3

TOPS, DRESSES, JACKETS (#002) (CAREER/CASUAL)

FABRIC TESTING

Required test Test Method Required standard NotesPHYSICAL

CHARACTERISTICS



FABRIC COUNT ASTM D3775/D3887 +/- 5% One color only FIBER CONTENT AATCC 20/20A


One color only

YARN SIZE




Negative 75 ppm

One color only


All colors

FLAMMABILITY

16 CFR 1610 Class 1 One color only (See “Performance Specifications -Flammability for details)



Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x-10/+3 Poly/Nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3

Woven-One color only Knits—all colors Washable fabrics; Dryclean only (hand wash)


AATCC 158, 1 cycle


Woven - -One color only Knits—all colors Dryclean fabrics







One color only



55

Tops/Dresses #002, page 2 of 3

Required test Test Method Required standard NotesPerformance, continued



Woven: 3% Knit: 5%

One color only

TENSILE STRENGTH ASTM D5034 (min. lbs) General fabrics: < 4 oz/sq yard: 20 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 30 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 40 Lining/pocketing: 20 lbs


TEAR STRENGTH ASTM D1424 (min. lbs) Fabric Weight: <4 oz/sq yard: 1.8 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 2.5 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 3.0 Lining: 1.8 Pocketing: 2.0


SEAM SLIPPAGE/STRENGTH

ASTM D434 (6 mm slippage and strength)Prototype seam



PILLING ASTM D3512 Random Tumble Knits: 30 minutes Wovens: 1 hour BS EN ISO 12945 Part 1 Specialty animal fibers: 2 hrs Other animal fibers: 4 hrs

Minimum All others: 3.5 Brushed/peached: 3 Polyester/nylon: 3 3.5 3.5


BURSTING STRENGTH ASTM D3786 Minimum (psi) Fabric Weight: <4.0 oz/sq yard: 40 4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 50 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 55 Lace: 35







AATCC TS-001







AATCC 15


All colors


AATCC 8, 116 Minimum (wet/dry) Light: 3/4 Medium/dark: 2.5/3.5 Pigment/ Sulfur 2/3 Sueded (brushed, peached, sanded)







56

GARMENT TESTING

Required test Test Method Required standard NotesDIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING/DRYCLEANING


Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 X -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x-10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2






Woven: 3% Knit: 5%



ASTM D1683 BV S1027 BV S1029

Seams/Stress points: 15 Pockets (Decorative/Functional): 5/10 Pleats/belt loops: 10 Lining: 15


TRIM PERFORMANCE

(Button Attachment strength Snap attachment strength Hook & Eye/Bar attachment strength)

BV S1023 BV S1044 (not limited to buttons and snaps)


ZIPPER TEST ASTM D2061 Zipper Operability Chain Crosswise Strength Top Stop Holding Holding Strength of slider lock Bottom Stop Holding (if applicable) Note: See spec. #814 for requirements.

All zipper brands





57

SUITS/COORDINATES (#003) (CAREER/CASUAL)

FABRIC TESTING Page 1 of 3


CHARACTERISTICS




ASTMD276/629 Single Fiber:-no tolerance Blends: -+/- 3%

One color only

YARN SIZE

ASTM D1059 +/- 10% Non-stretch upon request(one color only)



Negative 75 ppm

One color only


All colors



Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 X -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle: -10/+3 X-10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3

Woven: One color only Knits: All colors Washable fabrics; Dryclean only (hand wash)


AATCC 158, 1 cycle


Woven: -One color only Knits: All colors Dryclean fabrics







One color only



58

Suits/Coordinates #003, Page 2 of 3




Woven: 3% Knit: 5%

One color only



TEAR STRENGTH ASTM D1424 (min. lbs) General fabrics: Fabric Weight: <4 oz/sq yard: 2 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 2.5 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 3.0 Lining: 1.8 Pocketing: 2.0



ASTM D434 (6 mm slippage and strength) Prototype seam









AATCC 61 / AATCC 132 1A - hand wash 2A - machine wash 40 C - cold 49 C - warm




AATCC TS-001


Washable fabrics: All colors





AATCC 15


All colors



59

Suits/Coordinates #003,

Page 3 of 3

Colorfastness (con’t) COLORFASTNESS TO CROCKING



COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT AATCC 16 Option 3, 20 hours Silk: 10 hours



GARMENT TESTING



Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x -10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2






Woven: 3% Knit: 5%


SEAM STRENGTH/SLIPPAGE ASTM D1683 BV S 1027 BV S 1029

Minimum (lbs) Seams/stress points: 15 Pockets (decorative/functional): 5/10 Pleats/belt loops: 10 Lining: 15


TRIM PERFORMANCE





All zipper brands





60

OUTERWEAR (#004)

FABRIC TESTING Page 1 of 3 Required test Test Method Required standard Notes

PHYSICAL

CHARACTERISTICS




ASTMD276/629 Single Fiber: No tolerance Blends: +/- 3%

One color only

YARN SIZE




Negative 75 ppm

One color only


All colors

FLAMMABILITY

16 CFR 1610 Class 1 One color only (See “Performance Specifications-Flammability for details)



Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x -10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3



AATCC 158, 1 cycle


Woven: One color only Knits: All colors Dryclean fabrics







One color only



61

Outerwear #004, Page 2 of 3




Woven: 3% Knit: 5%

One color only

TENSILE STRENGTH ASTM D5034 (min. lbs) General fabrics: Fabric Weight: < 6 oz/sq yard: 40 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 50 Lining/pocketing: 20

Wovens: One color only

TEAR STRENGTH ASTM D1424 (min. lbs) General fabrics: Fabric Weight: <6 oz/sq yard: 2.5 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 3.0 Lining: 1.8 Pocketing: 2.0






PILLING ASTM D3512 Random Tumble Knits: 30 minutes Wovens: 1 hour BS EN ISO 12945 Part 1 Specialty animal fibers:2 hrs Other animal fibers: 4 hrs





COLORFASTNESS COLORFASTNESS TO WATER AATCC 107 Minimum

Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5

All colors (except white)


AATCC 61/ AATCC 132 1A - hand wash 2A - machine wash 40C - cold 49 C - warm




AATCC TS-001


Washable fabrics; all colors





AATCC 15


All colors









62

GARMENT TESTING

Required test Test Method Required standard NotesDIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING/ DRYCLEANING

AATCC 150, 3 cycles(as per care instructions) For “dryclean only” fabrics: Hand wash, line dry or flat dry AATCC 158, 1 cycle

Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x -10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Length x Width (max. %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2




TWISTING AFTER LAUNDERING/DRY CLEANING


Woven: 3% Knit: 5%



ASTM D1683 BV S 1027 BV S1029

Seams: 25 Stress Points: 20 Pockets (decorative/functional): 10/20 Pleats/belt loops: 10 Lining; 15


DOWNPROOFNESS IDFL 5530 (Tumbling Method) FTM 191, Method 5530 (modified)

Minimum 4 If down product

TRIM PERFORMANCE





All zipper brands





63

DENIM APPAREL (#005)

Page 1 of 3

(All tests are to be done after the final wash treatment) Note: For “before-wash” required tests, see “Textile Production Testing”, pages 20-21


PHYSICAL

CHARACTERISTICS


ASTM D3776 +/- 5% All washes, one color only

FABRIC COUNT ASTM D3775/D3887 +/- 5% All washes, one color only

FIBER CONTENT AATCC 20/20A ASTMD276/629

Single Fiber: No tolerance Blends-: +/- 3%

One color only

YARN SIZE

ASTM D1059 +/- 10% Non-stretch upon request



Negative 75 ppm

For all “washes” - one color only.

pH AATCC 81 4.5-7

After final wash treatments; all “colors/washes”

FLAMMABILITY

16 CFR 1610 Class 1 (See “Performance Specifications-Flammability for details)


AATCC 135, 3 cycles (as per care instructions)

Length x Width (max. %) -3/+3 x -3/+3

Washable fabrics All washes, one color only.


AATCC 158, 1 cycle


Dryclean fabrics All washes, one color only




All washes, one color only


Coteco No visual change in appearance Length x Width (max %) -2/+2 x -2/+2


TWISTING AFTER LAUNDERING/ DRYCLEANING


3%




64

Denim #005, Page 2 of 3

Required test Test Method Required standard NotesPerformance, con’t TENSILE STRENGTH ASTM D5034 (min. lbs)

Fabric Weight: <5 oz/sq yard: 30 5-7.9 oz/sq yard: 40 8-9.9 oz/sq yard: 50 10-11.9 oz/sq yard: 60 >12 oz/sq yard: 70 Lining/pocketing: 20


TEAR STRENGTH ASTM D1424 ASTM D2261 (>10 oz/yd2)

(min. lbs) Fabric Weight: <5 oz/sq yard: 2 5-7.9 oz/sq yard: 3 8-9.9 oz/sq yard: 4 10-11.9 oz/sq yard:5 >12: 6 Lining: 1.8 Pocketing: 2


SEAM SLIPPAGE/ STRENGTH

ASTM D434 Prototype seam

(min. lbs) Fabric Weight: <4.0 oz/sq yard: 15 4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 20 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 25 Lining: 15 Pocketing: 20


ABRASION

ASTM D3886 300 cycles

No rupture of yarn. All washes, one color only

COLORFASTNESS COLORFASTNESS TO LAUNDERING / DRYCLEANING

AATCC 61/ AATCC 132 Hand washables: 1A Machine washables: 2A Warm:49C Cold: 40C

Minimum: Color change: 4 Color staining: 3 Self-staining: 4.5

All washes, all colors (as applicable)


AATCC TS 001

Minimum 4 Washable fabrics; All washes, all colors


AATCC TS 001 Minimum 4 Washable fabrics; all washes, all colors


AATCC 15

Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3 Self-staining: 4.5

All washes, all colors


AATCC 8, 116 Minimum: Dry: 3; Wet 2 If dry crocking does not meet Class 3, or wet crocking class 2, wash 1X according to the care label of garment and repeat crocking test.



Minimum Light colors: 3.5 All others: 4

All washes, all colors Except lining/ pocketing fabrics

COLORFASTNESS TO OZONE AATCC 109 (1 cycle) Minimum 4 All washes, all colors COLORFASTNESS TO BURNT GAS FUMES

AATCC 23 (1 cycle) Minimum 4




65

Denim #005, Page 3 of 3

GARMENT TESTING


FIBER CONTENT 16 CFR 303 Compliance to regulation; Verification of label

CARE LABEL 16 CFR 423 Compliance to regulation; Verification of label

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO HOME LAUNDERING/ DRYCLEANING

As per care instructions Laundering: 3 cycles Dryclean: 1cycle

Length x Width (max %) Washing: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Dryclean: -2/+2 x -2/+2


AATCC 8, 116 Dry: 3; Wet: 2 Remark: If dry crocking does not meet Class 3, or wet crocking class 2, wash garment 1X according to the care label of garment and repeat crocking test. If the crocking improves to a satisfactory rating, the fabric can be accepted, provided that the care instruction is modified to include “wash before wearing” (before all other instructions).


APPEARANCE AFTER LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING


Color change: 4 No visible staining Appearance satisfactory

TWIST AFTER LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING


Maximum 3%

SEAM STRENGTH/ SLIPPAGE ASTM D1683 BV S1027 BV S1029

Minimum (lbs) Fabric Weight: <4 oz/sq yard: 15 4.1-8 oz/sq yard: 20 >8.1 oz/sq yard: 25 Pockets: 20 Belt loops: 10 Lining: 15

All seams

TRIM PERFORMANCE





All zipper brands



66

INTIMATES (#006)

(Including Bras, Camisoles, Panties)

Page 1 of 3

FABRIC TESTING


CHARACTERISTICS





One color only

YARN SIZE




Negative 75 ppm

One color only

pH AATCC 81 White (bleached), wool/wool blends: 4.5-7 Others: 6-8

All colors

FLAMMABILITY







AATCC 158, 1 cycle









One color only



67

Intimates #006, Page 2 of 3


Performance (cont’d)



Woven: 3% Knit: 5%

One color only

TENSILE STRENGTH ASTM D5034 (min. lbs) General fabrics: Fabric Weight: < 4 oz/sq yard: 20 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 30 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 40 Lining/Pocketing: 20


TEAR STRENGTH ASTM D1424 (min. lbs) General fabrics: Fabric Weight: <4 oz/sq yard: 1.8 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 2.5 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 3.0 Lining: 1.8 Pocketing: 2




(min. lbs) Fabric Weight: <4 oz/sq yard: 15 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 20 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 25 Lining: 15 Pocketing: 20







NARROW ELASTICS PERFORMANCE

ASTM D4964 85% Recovery As required for narrow elastics

BRA BAND ELONGATION BV S1019 Maximum setting: 2.4-3.5 lbs Minimum setting: 1.5-2.5 lbs

Bra bands only









AATCC TS-001





68

Intimates #006, Page 3 of 3

Required test Test Method Required standard NotesColorfastness (cont’d) COLORFASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION

AATCC 15 Multifiber 49


All colors

COLORFASTNESS TO CROCKING AATCC 8, 116 Minimum (wet/dry) Light: 3/4 Medium/dark: 2.5/3.5 Pigment/ sulfur 2/3 Sueded (brushed, peached, sanded)


GARMENT TESTING









Woven: 3% Knit: 5%


SEAM STRENGTH/SLIPPAGE ASTM D1683 <4 oz/sq yard: 15 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 20 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 25 Bras: Strap joining/Cup Seam/Front: 15 lbs or 40% elongation


TRIM PERFORMANCE



Minimum: 15 lbs. All on garment

ZIPPER TEST ASTM D2061 Zipper Operability Chain Crosswise Strength Top Stop Holding Holding Strength of slider lock Bottom Stop Holding (if applicable) Note: See spec. #814 for requirements.

All zipper brands





69

SLEEPWEAR (#007)

Page 1 of 3

FABRIC TESTING


CHARACTERISTICS




ASTM D276/629 Single Fiber:: No tolerance Blends: +/- 3%

One color only

YARN SIZE




Negative 75 ppm

One color only

pH AATCC 81 White (bleached), Wool/wool Blends: 4.5-7 Others: 6-8

All colors

FLAMMABILITY







AATCC 158, 1 cycle









One color only



70

Sleepwear #007, Page 2 of 3


Performance (cont’d)



Woven: 3% Knit: 5%

One color only

TENSILE STRENGTH ASTM D5034 (min. lbs) General fabrics: Fabric Weight: < 4 oz/sq yard: 25 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 30 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 40


TEAR STRENGTH ASTM D1424 (min. lbs) General fabrics: Fabric Weight: <4 oz/sq yard: 2.0 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 2.5 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 3.0




(min. lbs) Fabric Weight: <4 oz/sq yard: 15 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 20 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 25








AATCC 61/ AATCC 132 1A - hand wash 2A - machine wash 40C - cold 49C - warm




AATCC TS-001







AATCC 15


All colors

COLORFASTNESS TO CROCKING AATCC 8, 116 Minimum (Wet/Dry) Light: 3/4 Medium/dark: 2.5/3.5 Pigment/ sulfur 2/3 Sueded (brushed, peached, sanded).




71

Sleepwear # 007, Page 3 of 3

GARMENT TESTING









Woven: 3% Knit: 5%



<4 oz/sq yard: 15 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 20 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 25 Pockets (decorative/functional): 5/10 Belt loops: 10 Lining: 15


TRIM PERFORMANCE





All zipper brands





72

TESTING ACTIVE/SWIMWEAR (#008)

(Including Leotards, Sweatshirts/tops, sweatpants/shorts)

Page 1 of 4


PHYSICAL

CHARACTERISTICS





One color only

YARN SIZE




Negative 75 ppm

One color only


All colors

FLAMMABILITY

16 CFR 1610 Class 1 One color only (See “Performance Specifications - Flammability for details)



Length x Width (Max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x --10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3



AATCC 158, 1 cycle







DIMENSIONAL STABILITY /APPEARANCE AFTER STEAM PRESSING

Coteco

No visual change in appearance Length x Width (max. %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2

One color only Note: This test does not apply to swimwear fabrics



73

Active/Swim #008, Page 2 of 4




Woven: 3% Knit: 5%

One color only



TEAR STRENGTH ASTM D1424 (min. lbs) General fabrics: Fabric Weight: <4 oz/sq yard: 2 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 2.5 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 3.0 Lining: 1.8 Pocketing: 2




(min. lbs) Fabric Weight: <4 oz/sq yard: 15 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 20 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 25 Lining: 15 Pocketing: 20


PILLING ASTM D3512 Random Tumble Knits: 30 minutes Wovens: 1 hour BS EN ISO 12945 Part 1 Animal fibers: 4 hrs

Minimum All others: 3.5 Brushed/peached: 3 Polyester/nylon: 3 3.5




COLORFASTNESS COLORFASTNESS TO WATER AATCC 107 Minimum


All colors (except white)


AATCC 61/AATCC 132 1A - hand wash 2A - machine wash 40C - cold 49C - warm




AATCC TS-001


Washable fabrics All colors



Washable fabrics All colors


AATCC 15


All colors



74


Required test Test Method Required standard NotesColorfastness, con’t COLORFASTNESS TO CROCKING



COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT AATCC 16 Option 3 Activewear: 20 hours Swimwear: 40 hours

Minimum Light/neutral colors: 3.5 All others: 4 Neon: 2.5


COLORFASTNESS TO CHLORINATED POOL WATER

AATCC 162 Minimum color change: All others: 4 Pigment dye/prints: 3.5 Self-staining: 4

All colors Swimwear only

COLORFASTNESS TO SEAWATER

AATCC 106 Minimum Color change: 4 (Pigment dyes/prints: 3.5) Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4


**If making additional “claims” on the garment (such as “breathable”, “absorbent”, “wicking”,

etc.), additional testing will be required. Consult with Director of Fabric and Testing and see

“Additional Testing”.

GARMENT TESTING









Woven: 3% Knit: 5%



<4 oz/sq yard: 15 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 20 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 25 Stress Points: 20 Pockets (decorative/functional):10/20 Pleats/belt loops: 10 Lining: 15




75


Required test Test Method Required standard NotesGarment Testing (cont’d)

TRIM PERFORMANCE





All zipper brands





76

SWEATERS (#009)

Page 1 of 3

FABRIC TESTING

(Performed after final factory garment wash)


PHYSICAL

CHARACTERISTICS

FABRIC COUNT

ASTM D3775/D3887 +/- 5% One color only



One color only

YARN SIZE




Negative 75 ppm

One color only


All colors

FLAMMABILITY




Length x Width (max. %) Rayon/blends: -5/+5 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Others -5/+3

All colors Washable fabrics; Dryclean only (hand wash)


AATCC 158, 1 cycle

Length x Width (Max. %) -5/+2 x -5/+2

All colors Dryclean fabrics







77

Sweaters #009, Page 2 of 3




Maximum 3%

One color only

PILLING BS EN ISO 12945 Part 1 Specialty animal fibers: 2 hrs Other animal fibers: 4 hrs

Minimum 3.5 3.5

One color only If failure, test 2 additional colors.

BURSTING STRENGTH ASTM D3786 Minimum (psi) 40 One color only






AATCC TS-001







AATCC 15


All colors






All colors



78

Sweaters #009, Page 3 of 3

GARMENT TESTING

Required test Test Method Required standard NotesGARMENT WEIGHT

Standard Measure Report Actual - lbs per dozen

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING/DRYCLEANING


Length x Width (max. %) Rayon/blends: -5/+5 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Others: -5/+3 -5/+2 x -5/+2




TWISTING AFTER LAUNDERING


Woven: 3% Knit: 5%

SEAM STRETCHABILITY AATCC TS 015 7.0 lbs or 50% elongation All seams, stress points, pockets (decorative/ functional)

TRIM PERFORMANCE





All zipper brands





79

LEATHER (#010)

Page 1 of 3


PHYSICAL

CHARACTERISTICS

MATERIAL IDENTIFICATION Leather Shell FIBER CONTENT Lining Fabric

Microscopic AATCC 20/20A ASTMD276/629

Verify leather material (man-made; genuine; etc)

Verify content of lining.

One color only One color only

MATERIAL WEIGHT Leather Shell Lining Fabric

ASTM D3776

+/- 5%

One color only

LEATHER THICKNESS ASTM D1813 +/- 5% One color only PERFORMANCE pH AATCC 81 Leather, wool/wool blends,

bleached white fabric: 4.5-7 Others: 6-8

All colors

FLAMMABILITY Leather Lining Fabric


DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO LEATHER CLEANING

Professional Leather Cleaning, 1 cycle Lining fabric: AATCC 158, 1 cycle

Length x Width (max. %) Leather: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Lining Fabric Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knit: -3/+2 x -3/+2

Leather: One color only Woven:: One color only Knits: All colors

APPEARANCE AFTER LEATHER CLEANING

Professional Leather Clean, 1 cycle

Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance.

As above

BREAKING STRENGTH OF LEATHER

ASTM D2208 Minimum (lbs): 25 One color only

TENSILE STRENGTH (of lining fabric)

ASTM D5034 Minimum (lbs): 20


TEAR STRENGTH OF LEATHER

ASTM D4704

Minimum (lbs) : 2

One color only

TEAR STRENGTH (of lining fabric)

ASTM D1424 Min. lbs 1.8


DURABILITY OF LEATHER FINISH (flexing method)

ASTM D6182

Rank 1 (no damage)

One color only



80

Leather #010, Page 2 of 3

Required test Test Method Required standard NotesCOLORFASTNESS COLORFASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION

AATCC 15


Lining fabric only All colors


AATCC 8, 116 Minimum (wet/dry) 2/3 Lining: 2.5/3.5: med/dark colors 3 / 4: light colors


COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT AATCC 16 Option 3; 20 hours

Minimum Light colors: 3.5 All others: 4

All colors (Leather and trim, except lining fabrics).

GARMENT TESTING

Required test Test Method Required standard NotesDIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO LEATHER CLEANING (INCLUDING DIFFERENTIAL SHRINKAGE)

Professional Leather Cleaning, 1 cycle


APPEARANCE AFTER LEATHER CLEANING

Professional Leather Cleaning, 1 cycle


SEAM STRENGTH/SLIPPAGE ASTM D1683 Minimum (lbs) Lining to garment: 15 Other seams: 20 Stress points:20 Pockets (Decorative/Functional): 10/20 Lining: 15

TRIM PERFORMANCE





All zipper brands

FLAMMABILITY 16 CFR 1610 16 CFR 1611

Class 1 For trim, if applicable (See “Performance Specifications-Flammability for details)





81

ADDITIONAL TESTING (#011)

Page 1 of 1

Required test Test Method Required standard NotesPILE RETENTION ASTM D4685

(use CS-10 Abradant) Option A Fabric >7.0 oz/sq yard: 500g head weight Option B Fabric <7.0 oz/sq yard 250g headweight

Option A:Face : Min Class 3.0 @ 300 cycles Back: Min Class 4.0 @ 100 cycles Option B: Face – Min Class 3.0 @ 300 cycles Back – Min Class 4.0 @ 50 cycles

Corduroy, velvet, velour One color only

ADHESION TEST/FIBER SHEDDING PROPENSITY

BV S1036 Fiber removal maximum 50 x 10-3 grams

Faux fur only

STRETCH AND RECOVERY / TENSION AND ELONGATION OF ELASTIC FABRICS

ASTM D2594 use “Growth” for pass/fail determination. ASTM D4964

KNIT:F or samples with elastic content >

10% (60 sec.) Growth: 5% Recovery: 85% (information only) For samples with elastic content < 10% (1hr.)

Growth: 7% Recovery: 70% (information only)

Swimwear / Action Wear: Elongation: Warp Knit: Lengthwise 120% min. Widthwise 75% min. Weft Knit: Lengthwise 75% min. Widthwise 120% min. Recovery: 85% minimum

One color only (must submit FABRIC for testing) One color only (must submit FABRIC for testing)

ASTM D3107

WOVEN:For samples with elastic content > 10% (30 sec.) Recovery: 85% Growth: 5% For samples with elastic content < 10% (1hr.) Recovery: 70%

Growth: 7%

One color on stretch direction only (must submit FABRIC for testing)

ASTM D4964 Narrow Fabrics 85% recovery

As required for narrow elastics (intimates, etc.)

RAIN TEST AATCC 35 (2 ft, 2 min)

Coated fabric: Maximum 1 gram of water penetration Uncoated fabric: >1 gram of water penetration

“Rainwear” only; One color Test before and after coating, since the water-resistance must be a direct result of the coating, and not any prior finish.

SPRAY TEST

AATCC 22 Original: 90 ISO Washed (3X): 70 ISO Drycleaned (1X) (as per care instructions)

Only if claimed to be “water resistant” One color only

AIR PERMEABILITY ASTM D737 Minimum: 10

If claiming “windproof”

COLORFASTNESS TO OZONE

AATCC 109, 1 cycle Minimum: 4 Indigo and whites only

GAS FUMES FADING AATCC 23, 1 cycle Minimum: 4 Indigo and whites only



82

BREATHABILITY ASTM E96 > 500 gr/sq.mt./24 hr If claiming “moisture

management”

ABSORBENCY AATCC 79 Max 30 sec If claiming “moisture management”

WICKING BV S 1038 Min 3 inches at 30 min. If claiming “moisture management”

UV TRANSMITTANCE ASTM D6603 Lab to advise standards If claiming “UV resistant”

DOWNPROOFNESS IDFL 5530 (Tumbling Method) FTMS 191, Method 5530 (modified)

Minimum 4 Down products only

AFTER WASH CROCKING TEST

AATCC 8 If dry crocking does not meet Class 3.5, or wet crocking class 2.0 wash 1X according to the care label and repeat test. If the crocking improves to a satisfactory rating, the fabric can be accepted, provided that the care instruction is modified to include “wash before wearing” (before all other instructions).

Denim, pigment, sulphur, suede, etc.


Lead Content EPA 3051 (Modified) (San Francisco Superior Court, 317256, CGC-02-403328, and CGC-05-440721)

PVC 30 ppm

All Colors


PU 100 ppm All Colors



83

BASIC CARE LABELS

AT01 Machine wash cold, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, line dry or flat dry cool iron if

needed. AT02 Machine wash cold, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, tumble dry low, do not iron or

dryclean. AT03 Machine wash cold, do not bleach, tumble dry low, warm iron if needed. AT04 Machine wash cold, do not bleach, line dry or flat dry, warm iron if needed. AT05 Machine wash cold, gentle cycle, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, tumble dry low

remove promptly, warm iron if needed. AT06 Machine wash cold, gentle cycle, do not bleach, line dry, warm iron if needed. AT07 Machine wash cold, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, line dry or flat dry, warm iron if

needed. AT08 Machine wash warm, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, tumble dry low, warm iron if

needed. AT09 Machine wash cold, only non-chlorine bleach when needed tumble dry low, warm iron if

needed. AT10 Hand wash cold, do not bleach, reshape, dry flat , cool iron if needed. AT11 Hand wash cold, do not bleach, reshape, dry flat, warm/cool iron if needed or dryclean. AT12 Hand wash cold, do not bleach, line dry or dry flat, warm iron if needed. AT13 Hand wash cold, do not bleach, dry flat, warm/cool iron if needed or dryclean. AT14 Machine wash warm, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, tumble dry low remove

promptly, warm iron if needed. AT15 Machine wash warm, do not bleach, line dry or dry flat, warm/cool iron if needed or

dryclean. AT16 Machine wash warm, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, tumble dry low remove

promptly, do not iron. AT17 Machine wash warm, only non-chorine bleach when needed, tumble dry medium remove

promptly, warm iron if needed. AT18 Machine wash warm, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, tumble dry low remove

promptly, cool iron if needed. AT19 Hand wash cold, do not bleach, line dry, warm iron if needed. AT20 Dryclean AT21 Professionally leather clean only AT22 Dryclean only AT23 Machine wash cold, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, tumble dry low, warm iron if

needed. AT24 Dryclean, do not steam press.

Remark: “Wash with like colors” maybe used on SOLID COLOR garments if color staining on multifiber strip does not exceed class 2.5 in the colorfastness to washing test.



84

BRANDED & CO-BRANDED PRODUCT

Ann Taylor will also engage in the retailing of branded and co-branded product. In order to ensure corporate and regulatory compliance, such products must be tested by an independent testing laboratory prior to delivery. Test protocols for branded and co-branded product can be found on pages 83 to 96 of this manual. Note: These are not the same as test protocols for Ann Taylor Corporate.



85

BRANDED & CO-BRANDED

BOTTOMS (#001A)

Page 1 of 2

(CAREER/CASUAL SKIRT/SHORT/PANT)

FABRIC TESTING

Required test Test Method Required standard NotesFIBER CONTENT AATCC 20/20A


One color only

FLAMMABILITY

16 CFR 1610 Class 1 One color only(see “Performance Specifications -Flammability for details)


AATCC 135, 3 cycles(as per care instructions) For “dryclean only” fabrics: Hand wash, line dry or flat dry

Length x Width (max. %)Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x-10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3

Woven: One color onlyKnits: All colors Washable fabrics; Dryclean only (hand wash)


AATCC 158, 1 cycle

Length x Width (max. %)Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2

Woven: One color onlyKnits: All colors Dryclean fabrics










AATCC TS-001






FORMALDEHYDE Spot Test


Negative 75 ppm

One color only


All colors



86

GARMENT TESTING

Required test Test Method Required standard Notes DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING/DRYCLEANING








For coated or painted trims, add the following tests if not tested at trim stage Lead content 16 CFR 1303

ASTM E1613/E1645 (Mod.)


All colors

Heavy Metals EN 71, Part IIIASTM F963






For material containing PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing), add the following test if not tested at trim stage


PVC 30 ppm

All Colors





87


TOPS, DRESSES, JACKETS (#002A)

(CAREER/CASUAL)

FABRIC TESTING



One color only

FLAMMABILITY




Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x-10/+3 Poly/Nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3

Woven-One color only Knits—all colors Washable fabrics; Dryclean only (hand wash)


AATCC 158, 1 cycle


Woven - -One color only Knits—all colors Dryclean fabrics










AATCC TS-001








Negative 75 ppm

One color only


All colors



88

GARMENT TESTING



Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 X -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x-10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2






For coated or painted trim, add the following tests if not tested at trim stage

Lead content 16 CFR 1303ASTM E1613/E1645 (Mod.)


All colors







If material containing PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing), add the following test if not tested at trim stage.


PVC 30 ppm

All Colors





89


SUITS/COORDINATES (#003A)

(CAREER/CASUAL)

FABRIC TESTING Page 1 of 2


ASTMD276/629 Single Fiber:-no tolerance Blends: -+/- 3%

One color only

FLAMMABILITY




Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 X -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle: -10/+3 X-10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3



AATCC 158, 1 cycle


Woven: -One color only Knits: All colors Dryclean fabrics






AATCC 61 / AATCC 132 1A - hand wash 2A - machine wash 40 C - cold 49 C - warm




AATCC TS-001








Negative 75 ppm

One color only


All colors

Page 2 of 2



90

GARMENT TESTING









For coated or painted trims, add the following tests if not tested at trim stage


ASTM E1613/E1645 (Mod.)


All colors









PVC 30 ppm

All Colors





91


OUTERWEAR (#004A)

FABRIC TESTING Page 1 of 2 Required test Test Method Required standard Notes



One color only

FLAMMABILITY







AATCC 158, 1 cycle












AATCC TS-001






FORMALDEHYDE Spot Test MTL C1007 If positive, proceed with JIS L1041

Negative 75 ppm

One color only


All colors



92

Page 2 of 2

GARMENT TESTING

Required test Test Method Required standard NotesDIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING/ DRYCLEANING

AATCC 150, 3 cycles(as per care instructions) For “dryclean only” fabrics: Hand wash, line dry or flat dry AATCC 158, 1 cycle

Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x -10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Length x Width (max. %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2






For coated or painted trim, add the following tests if not tested at trim stage


ASTM E1613/E1645 (Mod.)


All colors







For material containing PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing), add the following tests if not tested at trim stage


PVC 30 ppm

All Colors





93


DENIM APPAREL (#005A)

Page 1 of 3

(All tests are to be done after the final wash treatment) Note: For “before-wash” required tests, see “Textile Production Testing”, pages 20-21



Single Fiber: No tolerance Blends-: +/- 3%

One color only

FLAMMABILITY

16 CFR 1610 Class 1 (See “Performance Specifications-Flammability for details)


AATCC 135, 3 cycles (as per care instructions)


Washable fabrics All washes, one color only.


AATCC 158, 1 cycle


Dryclean fabrics All washes, one color only






AATCC 61/ AATCC 132 Hand washables: 1A Machine washables: 2A Warm:49C Cold: 40C

Minimum: Color change: 4 Color staining: 3 Self-staining: 4.5

All washes, all colors (as applicable)


AATCC TS 001

Minimum 4 Washable fabrics; All washes, all colors


AATCC TS 001 Minimum 4 Washable fabrics; all washes, all colors


AATCC 8, 116 Minimum: Dry: 3; Wet 2 If dry crocking does not meet Class 3, or wet crocking class 2, wash 1X according to the care label of garment and repeat crocking test.



Negative 75 ppm

For all “washes” - one color only.

pH AATCC 81 4.5-7

After final wash treatments; all “colors/washes”



94

Page 2 of 3

GARMENT TESTING Required test Test Method Required standard Notes

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO HOME LAUNDERING/ DRYCLEANING


Length x Width (max %) Washing: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Dryclean: -2/+2 x -2/+2


AATCC 8, 116 Dry: 3; Wet: 2 Remark: If dry crocking does not meet Class 3, or wet crocking class 2, wash garment 1X according to the care label of garment and repeat crocking test. If the crocking improves to a satisfactory rating, the fabric can be accepted, provided that the care instruction is modified to include “wash before wearing” (before all other instructions).


APPEARANCE AFTER LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING


Color change: 4 No visible staining Appearance satisfactory

FIBER CONTENT 16 CFR 303 Compliance to regulation; Verification of label

CARE LABEL 16 CFR 423 Compliance to regulation; Verification of label



ASTM E1613/E1645 (Mod.)


All colors









95

Page 2 of 3



PVC 30 ppm

All Colors





96


INTIMATES (#006A)

(Including Bras, Camisoles, Panties)

Page 1 of 2

FABRIC TESTING



One color only

FLAMMABILITY







AATCC 158, 1 cycle















AATCC TS-001




Negative 75 ppm

One color only

pH AATCC 81 White (bleached), wool/wool blends: 4.5-7 Others: 6-8

All colors



97

Page 2 of 2

GARMENT TESTING













All colors







For material containing PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing), add

the following tests if not tested at trim stage


PVC 30 ppm

All Colors





98


SWEATERS (#009A)

Page 1 of 2

FABRIC TESTING

(Performed after final factory garment wash)




One color only

FLAMMABILITY




Length x Width (max. %) Rayon/blends: -5/+5 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Others -5/+3

All colors Washable fabrics; Dryclean only (hand wash)


AATCC 158, 1 cycle


All colors Dryclean fabrics










AATCC TS-001







Negative 75 ppm

One color only


All colors



99

Page 2 of 2

GARMENT TESTING



Length x Width (max. %) Rayon/blends: -5/+5 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Others: -5/+3 -5/+2 x -5/+2






Woven: 3% Knit: 5%

SEAM STRETCHABILITY AATCC TS 015 7.0 lbs or 50% elongation All seams, stress points, pockets (decorative/ functional)







All colors







For material containing PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing), add

the following tests if not tested at trim stage



PVC 30 ppm

All Colors




Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children 1 April 2008

Infant/Toddler/Children Requirements and Testing Safety First .................................................................................................................................................. 2

Standards for Infants/Toddlers/Children ...................................................................................................... 3

Standards for Infants/Toddlers/Children (cont’d).................................................................................. 3 Flammability ............................................................................................................................................................................. 3 Lead content.............................................................................................................................................................................. 3 Nickel........................................................................................................................................................................................ 3 Azo dyes ................................................................................................................................................................................... 4 Formaldehyde: .......................................................................................................................................................................... 4 Phthalates: (in PVC) ................................................................................................................................................................. 4 Stuffing materials...................................................................................................................................................................... 4 Colorfastness (general) ............................................................................................................................................................. 4 Colorfastness to Saliva.............................................................................................................................................................. 4 Sharp edges, sharp points.......................................................................................................................................................... 5 Small Parts ................................................................................................................................................................................ 5 Stuffed Toy and Rattle Requirements....................................................................................................................................... 6

Test Request Form ..................................................................................................................................... 8 Ann Taylor Infant/Toddler/Children Test Request Form -Trim ..................................................................................... 8 Ann Taylor Infant/Toddler/Children Test Request Form -Fabric ................................................................................... 9 Ann Taylor Infant/Toddler/Children Test Request Form -Garment.............................................................................10

Trim Testing.............................................................................................................................................. 11 Responsibility of Garment Suppliers ...................................................................................................................................... 11 Trim Testing Protocols ........................................................................................................................................................... 12

Fabric Testing ........................................................................................................................................... 20 Responsibility of Garment Suppliers ...................................................................................................................................... 20 Fabric Testing Protocol - Development .................................................................................................................................. 21 Fabric Testing Protocol - Production...................................................................................................................................... 24

Garment Testing....................................................................................................................................... 29 Responsibility of Garment Suppliers ...................................................................................................................................... 29 Garment Testing Protocol ....................................................................................................................................................... 30

Construction and Manufacturing Requirements .................................................................................. 34 Zippers .................................................................................................................................................................................... 34 Appliqués, Decorations, etc. ................................................................................................................................................... 35 Snap Control ........................................................................................................................................................................... 35 Buttons (functional and non-functional) ................................................................................................................................. 36 Hasps and Sliders.................................................................................................................................................................... 36 Factory Requirements (Small Parts) ....................................................................................................................................... 37 Loops and Hangers ................................................................................................................................................................. 38 Drawstring Requirements ....................................................................................................................................................... 38 Neck Stretch............................................................................................................................................................................ 38 Sewing Needle Control ........................................................................................................................................................... 39 Metal Pins, Wires, and Staples Control .................................................................................................................................. 40 Sewing Thread ........................................................................................................................................................................ 40 Flame Retardant Finishes on Fabrics ...................................................................................................................................... 40 Stone Washing ........................................................................................................................................................................ 40 Appendix A……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………41



Safety First

The safety of children is our #1 Priority!

In addition to the construction and manufacturing requirements listed, reasonable judgment and care must be exercised by the garment manufacturers to avoid any latent hazard. Ann Taylor must be notified if, in the opinion of the manufacturer, the design of the garment cannot be executed without creating a potential hazard.

The tests and requirements cited were developed by the following government offices and industry associations:

Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) Federal Trade Commission (FTC) American Society of Testing and Materials (ASTM) American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) The International Organization for Standardization (ISO) German Institute for Standardization (DIN)

Note: Individual states may have additional requirements.



Standards for Infants/Toddlers/Children (cont’d) Flammability All fabric must meet the normal flammability standards with the added requirement. Requirement: 16 CFR 1610, Class 1 Flame Retardant finishes may not be applied to any garment without written approval from NY Production and NY Director of Fabric and Testing. Ann Taylor does not intend to produce any garments for sleepwear; however, it is the responsibility of New York design and Production to assure that none of the garments could be “classified as sleepwear” (even though they are not intended to be). See details in Appendix A. Consult NY Director of Fabric and Testing (for special requirements/testing) if any garment could be classified as “sleepwear”. Lead Content 16 CFR 1303 Requirement: Less than 0.06% (600 ppm), based on the total weight of the dried paint or coating film. Required for all painted, coated, and printed surfaces, including decals Nickel Metal accessories must be “Nickel-free” even if the item does not come in contact with the skin (nickel usually triggers the needle detectors, a mandatory process for these garment sizes).

“Nickel free” requirement: Transfer to the skin measurement of <0.5 micrograms per square centimeter per week

Exception: Small metal items (i.e. snaps, small buttons, etc.) with a low amount of nickel may pass through the needle detector without an alarm. If the garment manufacturer confirms that an item does not trigger the alarm then such nickel containing items can be used provided that they do not come in prolonged contact with the skin.



Azo dyes All fabrics, trims and accessories must be free of the AZO dyes (including Blue colourant #611-070-00-2) and pigments that are banned (see Appendix B). This also applies to leather and other components. (testing upon request only) Formaldehyde JIS L-1041 Requirement: Less than 20 ppm (direct or indirect contact with skin)

Phthalates: (in PVC)

1. Dibutyl phthalate (DBP) 2. Butyl benzyl phthalate (BBP) 3. Di-2-ethylhexyl phthalate (DEHP) 4. Di-n-ocyl phthalate (DNOP) 5. Di-iso-decyl-phthalate (DIDP) 6. Di-iso-nonyl phthalate (DINP)

Requirement: Less than 1000 ppm (0.1% by weight) of the above substances.

Stuffing Materials ASTM F963 Requirement: Material must be disclosed. All filling material must be new and free of contaminants such as splinters, metal chips etc.

Colorfastness The supplier must take every possible step to assure that Ann Taylor’s colorfastness requirements are met. Such steps include, but are not limited to, the selection of the best dyestuffs available, extra rinsing, dye fixation, etc. Note: All cotton fabrics must be dyed with reactive or vat dyes. Indigo dyes can be used where applicable. Sulfur or direct dyes are not accepted, unless specifically requested by Ann Taylor for special effects.

Colorfastness to Saliva LMBG 82.10 Section 35 (German Industrial Norm) Requirement: Solution #1 only. Minimum class 4.5 per AATCC Gray Scale.



Sharp Edges and Sharp Points ASTM F963

All parts that are hard or stiff, such as metal parts, buttons, appliqués, velcro-type fasteners, labels, etc. must not have any sharp edges and points. All corners must be rounded.

No needles or parts of needles can be left in any garment. No pins allowed in packaging. Must use needle detector and needle control system in factory. (See Construction and Manufacturing Requirements, “Sewing Needle Control”)

Small Parts

• “Small parts” on toys or other articles (i.e. garments) pose choking, aspiration, and ingestion hazards to

young children. Some examples include, but are not limited to, functional and non-functional buttons, snaps, and decorative items.

• It is necessary to ensure that all buttons, snaps, and decorative items (i.e. small parts) are attached to the garments securely and appropriately so that they will withstand the reasonable use and abuse of the children and infants who wear them.

• Articles must undergo use and abuse tests to simulate the “normal use and reasonable foreseeable damage and abuse” which articles may undergo under ordinary conditions.

Removal of small parts “use and abuse” testing (age group up to 8 years)

ASTM F963/16 CFR 1500.50-53

Required for any part that: • fits entirely within the prescribed “small parts cylinder” (see drawing) - thus a “substantial product hazard”. • a child can grasp with the thumb and forefinger or the teeth,

Examples: appliqués, bows, poms, buckles, buttons, snaps, zipper pulls, etc. Note: Yarns and textile fabric are exempt from requirement; however, these items must be reviewed

on an individual basis, as exempt items can also be considered “substantial product hazards”. See “Garment Testing Protocol”

• Any piece that detaches from the article due to these “use and abuse” testing procedures must then be

evaluated to determine if it complies with the small parts standard (16 CFR 1501). If the detached article fits into the small parts cylinder, it can be considered a “substantial product hazard”.



Stuffed Toy and Rattle Rattle Requirement: • 16 CFR. Part 1510 - pertaining to the penetrability of a rattle into the mouth and throat. Small Parts, Sharp Points, and Sharp Edges • 16 C.F.R. Part 1501 - Small parts standards • 16 C.F.R. Part 1500.48 - Sharp point standards • 16 C.F.R. Part 1500.49 - Sharp edges standard • 16 C.F.R. Part 1500.50-53 – Use and abuse testing No small parts, sharp points, or sharp edges before or after “use and abuse” testing. Lead Paint: 16 CFR 1303 Requirement: Less than 0.06% (600 ppm), based on the total weight of the dried paint or coating film.

Additional Heavy Metals ASTM F963 Requirements: Must not exceed the following limits for soluble migrated element:

Antimony 60 ppmArsenic 25 ppmBarium 1000 ppmCadmium 75 ppmChromium 60 ppmLead 90 ppmMercury 60 ppmSelenium 500 ppm

Phthalates: (if toy contains PVC) Requirements: Less than 1000 ppm (0.1% by weight) of the following substances: 1. DINP (di-iso-nonyl phthalate) 2. DEHP (di (2-ethylhexyl) phthalate) 3. DNOP (di-n-octyl phthalate) 4. DIDP (di-iso-decyl phthalate) 5. BBP (butylbenzyl phthalate) 6. DBP (dibutyl phthalate)



Azo Dyes All items must be free of the AZO dyes and pigments that are banned (see Appendix B). Flammability 16 CFR Part 1500.3 and 1500.44 (as for “rigid or pliable solids”). Pennsylvania Stuffed Toys Regulation: (Title 34, Chapter 47, Section 47.317); ASTM F963 Must not contain the following: • Previously-used material • Less than 1% oil or grease • Dirt and/or other foreign matter >1% by weight • Less than 0.002% lead • Less than 0.0002% arsenic • Less than 5% ammonia • Less than 1% urea • Stones or other hard materials having jagged or sharp edges • Material with electrostatic charge with adherence characteristics • Filler which surface burns at a rate <3 seconds per 12 square inches. Note: Each toy must also be evaluated on an individual basis for additional tests that might be necessary. Consult NY Director of Fabric and Testing when needed. Polybags for Toys (ASTM F963-96a) Requirement: Actual thickness shall not be less than 0.00125 in. (0.03175 mm).



Ann Taylor Infant/Toddler/Children Test Request Form - Trim Service: □ Regular □ Priority (2 working days on selective items)

Trim Information Season Trim Supplier Garment Facility/Factory Supplier Trim Number P.O. Number Detailed Description Color/Color Combination Internally Dyed/Dyed to match Coating/Paint Size Material (i.e. melamine, polyester, metal composition, etc.) Nickel content (i.e. “nickel-free”) Sample Status Trim Tests Requested

□ Development

□ Production

□ Non-Metallic □ Patches, appliqués, twill tapes, etc. □ Other

□ Metallic □ Rubber and soft plastic patches □ Additional color or size

□ Zippers □ Down and Feather □ Retest Required Additional Information Retest of report # Property(ies) to be retested Comments/special instructions Billing Information Company Contact Address Telephone Fax

Corporate Policy: All vendors supplying finished products to Ann Taylor for confirmed production orders are required to incur the cost of all production testing, including the cost of merchandise destroyed during the testing process. Development testing will be charged back to your department. Rush service is available upon request after 48 hours of lab receipt at 40% surcharge.

Applicant’s Test Order Number: ______________________

Contact Information Division Department Number Vendor/Supplier Vendor Code Number Requestor Name: Telephone Fax: E-mail: AT Office/Agent Contact



Ann Taylor Infant/Toddler/Children Test Request Form - Fabric Service: □ Regular (3 days) □ Priority (2 working days on selective items)

Fabric Information Season Fabric Supplier RMID #/Fabric Quality Number P.O. Number Type of Fabric (woven/knit) Construction (i.e. twill, jersey, pique, etc) Fiber Content Yarn Dye/Piece Dye Fabric Finish (ie coated, washed, water repellent, etc) Resin-treated? Color(s) Anticipated Care Instructions:

Sample Status Fabric Tests Requested

□ Development

□ Production

□ Development Package □ Other

□ Production Package □ Retest

□ Additional Color

Required Additional Information Previous full test report # Retest of report # Property(ies) to be retested Comments/special instructions

Billing Information Company Contact Address Telephone Fax


Applicant’s Test Order Number: ____________________




Ann Taylor Infant/Toddler/Children Test Request Form - Garment Service: □ Regular (3 days) □ Priority (2 working days on selective items)

Garment Information Season Garment Facility (factory) Style number (of garment actually sent in for testing) Reference Style numbers (if applicable) P.O. Number Garment Description Fiber Content Color/Color Combination Garment Finish (i.e. garment wash, etc.) Care Instructions: Sample Status Garment Tests Requested

□ Development

□ Production

□ Garment Test Package (Infant/Toddler/Children) □ Other

□ Retest Required Additional Information Previous full test report #’s (i.e. fabric/trim)

Retest of report # (if applicable) Property(ies) to be retested Comments/special instructions Billing Information Company Contact Address Telephone Fax



Applicant’s Test Order Number: ____________________



TRIM TESTING Responsibility of Garment Suppliers 1. The garment supplier is responsible for all trims to be tested according to the Ann Taylor

requirements and for the cost of such tests.

2. Trim testing is required to be performed each season, at Production stage only. Development testing may still be performed upon request on an exception basis.

3. The factory must send representative trims (prior to garment production) to an Ann Taylor

designated commercial laboratory (see section VI-D of Apparel Manual for complete listing). • All the required trim information must be given to the laboratory (See Ann Taylor Test Request Form--Trim). • Make sure to mark which Ann Taylor division this trim is for and a contact, as the lab

will send the test reports directly to the regional production office. • Additional trims must be sent to the laboratory if needed (consult with lab).

4. Although certain types of trims are too small to be tested for flammability at trim and/or garment stage, it is the supplier’s responsibility to make sure all applicable trims would comply with the normal flammability requirements. It is recommended that applicable trims be tested in a larger form before proceeding with production.



PRODUCTION Trim Testing Protocols Non-metallic Trim (ITC Spec. #812) Examples: buttons, ball stoppers, etc. (excluding: metal, rubber, soft plastic, fabric, leather) Minimum sample requirement: 1 Gross (144 pieces) Page 1 of 2

Required Test Test Method Requirement Notes Flammability (fabric trims)

16 CFR 1610 Class 1 One color only (see “Responsibility of Garment Supplier” – Trim Testing for details)

DURABILITY TO IMPACT DURING LAUNDERING / DRYCLEANING

AATCC 61-3A / AATCC 86

No breaking, cracking, chipping or dulling of the surface

Test any one color, three representative sizes/shapes (i.e. large, medium, small, circle, square, heart, etc.) If failures, may need to test additional sizes/shapes. Does not have to be performed if the colorfastness tests under “dyed to match” are performed.

STEAM PRESS

Coteco Staining min. 4-5 No visual change in appearance

Test any one color, at least three representative sizes/shapes (i.e. large, medium, small)

If dyed to match (instead of internal dyed) add the following tests (test all colors, one size only): COLOR FASTNESS TO WASHING

AATCC 61, IIA

Color change: min. 4 Staining: min. 4

Test all colors, at least three representative sizes/shapes (i.e. large, medium, small)

COLORFASTNESS TO DRYCLEANING

AATCC 132


Test all colors, at least three representative sizes (i.e. large, medium, small)

COLORFASTNESS TO CROCKING (if applicable for button having a flat surface)

AATCC 116

Dry: min. 4.5 Wet: min. 4

Test all colors, any one size



Page 2 of 2 Non-metallic Trim (excluding metal, rubber, soft plastic, fabric, leather) If coated or painted add the following tests

Required Test Test Method Requirement Notes LEAD CONTENT 16 CFR 1303

ASTM 1613/E1645(mod.)


All colors

HEAVY METALS EN 71, Part III



NICKEL TEST EN 1811; EN12472(report results with and without coating)




Lead in PVC LEAD CONTENT

EPA 3051 (modified) (San Francisco Superior Court, 317256, CGC-02-403328, and CFC-05-440721)

30 ppm

All Colors

Lead in PU LEAD CONTENT

EPA 3051 (modified) 100 ppm All Colors

If button, add the following tests CENTER STRENGTH

a) Shank / 2 & 4 holes plastic & wooden buttons

b) Shell buttons

c) Horn buttons

S 4162 Section 4.0 (modified)

Up to 16 ligne: 16 lbf Up to 25 ligne: 20 lbf Larger than 25ligne: 30 lbf 15 lbf 18 lbf

Test all shapes/sizes. One color only.

If Snap, add the following tests SNAP ACTION ASTM D4846

BV-S 1045 Min: 2 lbs Max: 5 lbs

Test all sizes/shapes. One color only.



Metal Trim (ITC Spec. #813)

Minimum sample requirement: 1 Gross (144 pieces) Page 1 of 1

Required test Test Method Requirement Notes

CORROSION RESISTANCE

ASTM B117 (mod) 24 hours in 1% Salt Spray (Fog)



NICKEL TEST EN 1811, EN 12472 Report results with and without coating


Only if supplier indicated that the item is “nickel-free”.

HEAVY METALS EN 71, Part III



If coated or painted, add the following tests

LEAD CONTENT 16 CFR 1303 ASTM E1613/E1645 (mod.)


All colors

DURABILITY TO IMPACT DURING LAUNDERING / DRYCLEANING

AATCC 150 5X Home Laundering (machine wash warm, tumble dry medium) AATCC158 (3X Commercial Dryclean

No cracking, chipping or dulling of the surface

Test any one color, three representative sizes (i.e. large, medium, small)



EPA 3051 (Modified) (San Francisco Superior Court, 317256, CGC-02-403328, and CFC-05-440721)

30 ppm

All Colors


EPA 3051 (modified) 100 ppm All Colors

If Snap, add the following test SNAP ACTION BV S-1045/

ASTM D4846 Min: 2 lbs Max: 5 lbs

Test all sizes. One color only.



Zippers (ITC Spec. #814) Use: A = jeans, B= bottoms, C= dresses/tops, D= outerwear (for pockets “C” can be used) Minimum sample requirement: 120 (at least 6” in length)

Page 1 of 2

Requirement (lbf) Required test

Test Method Use

A Use

B Use

C Use D

Notes

CROSSWISE CHAIN STRENGTH

ASTM D2061 (14.1)

80 60 50 75

TOP STOP HOLDING ASTM D2061 (22.2)

20 16 16 20

BOTTOM STOP HOLDING (STRINGER SEPARATION)

ASTM D2061 (22.5)

16 12 12 20 Non separating zipper only. Lower standards are acceptable if zipper bottom is secured by appropriate sewing in garment.

FIXED RETAINER PULL OFF

ASTM D2061 (30.2)


SEPARABLE PIN PULL OFF

ASTM D2061 (30.1)


HOLDING STRENGTH OF SLIDER LOCK

ASTM D2061 (82)

12 6 4 7 Only if locking slider. Report any failure Examine all components after testing and report any damage (i.e. elements, etc.).

COLOR FASTNESS TO WASHING

AATCC 61 IIA

Color change: min. 4 Staining: min. 4 Appearance: No visual change.



AATCC 132

Color change: min. 4 Staining: min. 4 Appearance: No visual change.



ASTM D2054 AATCC 116

Dry: min. 4.5 Wet: min. 4

Test each color. Tape only.

RESISTANCE TO STEAM PRESS

Coteco

Staining min. 4-5 Color change: 4 No visual change in appearance.

Complete zipper Test each color.

OPERA0BILITY ASTM D2062

< 1.5 lb Test 3 different zippers

ZIPPER TORQUE 16 CFR 1500 4 in-lb Test each color



Zippers (cont’d) Page 2 of 2

Required test Test Method Requirement Notes NICKEL TEST EN 1811, EN 12472

Report results with and without coating

Transfer to skin less than 0.5. micrograms per square centimeter per week.

Nickel is possible in coatings or special colors

If used for swimwear

COLORFASTNESS AND APPEARANCE AFTER EXPOSURE TO SEA WATER.

AATCC 106 (modify if necessary)

Color change: min. 4 Staining: min. 4 Appearance: No visual change


COLORFASTNESS AND APPEARANCE AFTER EXPOSURE TO CHLORINATED POOL WATER

AATCC 162 (Modified, no multi-fiber swatch used)

Color change: min. 4 Appearance: No visual change


If painted or coated Add the following tests

LEAD CONTENT 16 CFR 1303 ASTM E1613/E1645 (mod.)


All colors

HEAVY METALS

ASTM F963

Maximums See “Accessories made of metal”

If metal, all with or without surface coating. If coated, test coating in each color.




30 ppm

All colors


EPA 3051 (modified) 100 ppm All colors

If made of metal HEAVY METALS EN 71 Part III See above See above

CORROSION RESISTANCE

ASTM B117 G85 (mod) 24 hrs in 1% salt spray (fog)





Patches, appliqués, twill tapes etc. (ITC Spec. #815) Made of fibers, including Velcro, dyed elastic, leather patches, etc. Minimum sample requirement: 1 yard (if in fabric form of at least 40” in width) OR 4 yards (taping)

Page 1 of 2


FLAMMABILITY (fabric trims)

16 CFR 1610 Class 1 One color only (see “Responsibility of Garment Supplier” - Trim Testing for details)

COLORFASTNESS TO WASHING

AATCC 61, IIA

Color change: min. 4 Staining: min. 4 Self staining: min. 4.5

Test all colors


AATCC 132


Test all colors

COLORFASTNESS TO WATER

AATCC 107 Color change: min. 4 Staining: min. 4 Self staining: min. 4.5

Test all colors


AATCC 8/116

Dry: min. 4 Wet: min. 3

Test all colors Report which test procedure was used

If item is a tape, ribbon, elastic, etc. add the following tests DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO LAUNDERING

AATCC 135 Report actual shrinkage. Acceptance depends on compatibility with fabric in specific garment

Test one color only Three launderings


AATCC 158 Report actual shrinkage. Acceptance depends on compatibility with fabric in specific garment.

Test one color only One dryclean only

If used on inside of garment add the following test: COLOR FASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION

AATCC 15 Color change: min. 3.5 Staining: min. 4 Example: neck tape, etc.

Test all colors



Patches, appliqués, twill tapes etc. (cont’d) (made of fibers, including velcro, dyed elastic, etc.)

Page 2 of 2

If used in swimwear add the following tests:

Required test Test method Requirement Notes COLORFASTNESS TO SEA WATER

AATCC 106


Test all colors


AATCC 162 (modified, no multi-fiber swatch used)

Color change: min. 4

Test all colors




30 ppm

All colors



Down and Feather Testing (ITC Spec. #816) Minimum sample requirement: 300 grams of down and one garment or mock-up.

Required Test Test Method Requirement Notes DOWNPROOFNESS IDFB, Method

5530 (tumbling method)

Minimum 4 Fabric against actual filling One color only

FEATHER/DOWN COMPOSITION

IDFB Method 3 Fed Standard 148a

No more than: 10% down fiber 10% feather fibers 2% land fowl feathers 2% damaged feathers 2% residue

For labeling, “USA Standards—Down and Feather Products Labeling Guidelines”

FILL POWER IDFB 10, IDFB 32 (tumble dry method)

Minimum 550 cubic inches/oz

OXYGEN NUMBER IDFB 21 General: Less than 10 Hypoallergenic/Super Clean Claim: <5

TURBIDITY IDFB 22 Minimum General: 300 mm Hypoallergenic/Super Clean Claim: 500 mm



Rubber & Soft Plastic Patches (ITC Spec. #817) Minimum sample requirement: 40 pieces

Page 1 of 1

Required test Test number Required Standard Notes

COLORFASTNESS TO WASHING

AATCC 61 IIA

Color change: min. 4 Staining: min. 4 No brittleness, cracking or chipping

All colors Add appearance to evaluation


AATCC 132

Color change: min. 4 Staining: min. 4 No brittleness, cracking or chipping.

Not for rubber (known to fail, use “do not dry clean” label) All colors Add appearance to evaluation

AGEING UNDER HOT/HUMID CONDITIONS

48 hrs under50oC (120oF) and 95% RH

No discoloration, staining, brittleness, cracking or chipping

Any one color

AGEING UNDER COLD CONDITIONS

48 hrs under 0oC (32oF)

No brittleness, cracking or chipping

Any one color Note: test sample must be evaluated immediately, while still cold.

PHTHALATES (IN PVC)

Solvent extraction with LC-MS or GC-MS Analysis

<1000 ppm of listed substances see “Standards”

PVC Test all colors

CADMIUM CONTENT

EN 1122 <0.01% by weight PVC, pigment coated/painted plastic

If used for swimwear add the following tests: COLORFASTNESS TO SEA WATER

AATCC 106


Test all colors


AATCC 162

Color change: min. 4

Test all colors




30 ppm

All colors





Fabric Testing

Responsibility of Suppliers 1. The fabric supplier is responsible for testing all fabrics according to the Ann Taylor requirements and for the cost of such tests. 2. Fabric tests must be done at development stage and on the first production dye lot of each fabric, each season. See testing protocols for development and production fabric. Ann Taylor will specify if any additional tests must be done depending on the fabric. 3. The tests must be done by an Ann Taylor designated commercial laboratory (see section VI-D in Apparel Manual for complete listing). All required fabric information must be given to the laboratory (see Ann Taylor Test Request Form - Fabric). 4. In addition, the fabric supplier must test each dye lot internally to assure that all fabrics meet the requirements. These test reports do not have to be submitted to Ann Taylor but the supplier must keep them for review by Ann Taylor personnel if any problems arise. 5. “Yarn” testing for sweaters should be done in knitted fabric form. 6. All denim testing must be done after the final wash treatment. Testing is not required on non-wash (i.e.

rigid) denim.



DEVELOPMENT

Fabric Testing Protocol (ITC Spec. #001) (For all fabrics and fabrics used as trim) Sample required: 2.5 yards Page 1 of 3 Required Test Test Method Requirement Notes

FABRIC WEIGHT (oz/sq yd) ASTM D3776 +/- 5% One color only

FLAMMABILITY

16 CFR 1610 Class 1 All colors

FORMALDEHYDE JIS L1041 <20 ppm One color only


AATCC 135, 3 cycles (as per care instructions) Cold: 80F (27C) Warm: 105F (40C) For “dry clean only” fabrics: Hand wash, line dry or flat dry.

Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: General: -3%x-3%(CVC), -3%x-3%(CVS) Stretch w/spandex: -4%x-4%(CVC), -3%x-3%(CVS) Corduroy, velvet, terry, flannel: -5%x-5%(CVC),-4%x-4%(CVS) Dobby, jacquard, basket, pique: -6%x-6%(CVC),-5%x-5%(CVS) wool/silk -4%x-4%(CVC),-3%x-3%(CVS) Growth: +1% maximum Knits: General: -5%x-5%(CVC), -4%x-4%(CVS) Stretch w/spandex: -6%x-5%(CVC), -5%x-4%(CVS) Fleece, Sherpa, french terry: -6%x-6%(CVC), -5%x-5%(CVS) Rib/waffle/pique: -6%x-6%(CVC),-5%x-5%(CVS) Jersey, interlock, pointelle: -6%x -5%(CVC), -5%x-5%(CVS) Thermal: -8%x-8%(CVC), -7%x-7%(CVS) Wool (washable): -5%x-5% Silk (washable): -6%x-6% Growth: +3% maximum

One color only Washable fabrics; Fabrics where “dry clean only” is recommended


AATCC 158, 1 cycle

Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -2.0%x-2.0% Growth: No growth allowed Knits: -3.0% x -3.0% Growth: No growth allowed

One color only Dry clean fabrics



No obvious defects/observations affecting the end product performance/appearance, color change/staining. Satisfactory performance of the components and trims. List all observations.



Page 2 of 3

Required test Test Method Requirement Notes TWISTING AFTER LAUNDERING


Maximum Woven: 3% Knit: 5%

One color only

TENSILE STRENGTH ASTM D5034 Length x Width (min. lbs) General Fabrics: Fabric Weight: <2.4 oz/sq yard: 15 2.5-4.0 oz/sq yard: 25 4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 30 > 6.0 oz/sq yard: 40 Pocketing: 20 lbs


TEAR STRENGTH ASTM D1424 Length x Width (min. lbs) General Fabrics: Fabric Weight: <2.4 oz/sq yard: 1.5 2.5-4.0 oz/sq yard: 2.0 4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 3.0 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 4.0 Lining and pocketing fabrics: Fabric Weight <4.0 oz/sq yard: 1.5 4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 2.0 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 2.5




Length x Width (min. lbs) Fabric Weight: <2.4 oz/sq yard: 10 2.5-4.0 oz/sq yard: 15 4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 20 > 6.0 oz/sq yard: 25


PILLING ASTM D3512 Random Tumble Knits: 30 minutes Wovens: 1 hour Animal Fibers: BS EN ISO 12945 Part 1 (4 hours) (Specialty animal fibers: 2 hours)

Minimum Wovens & knits: All others: 3.5 Brushed/peached: 3 Polyester/nylon: 3 Animal Fibers: 3.5

One color only

PILE RETENTION ASTM D4685 (use CS-10 Abradant) Option A Fabric >7.0 oz/sq yard: 500g head weight Option B Fabric <7.0 oz/sq yard 250g headweight

Option A: Face – Min Class 3.0 @ 300 cycles Back – Min Class 4.0 @ 100 cycles Option B: Face – Min Class 3.0 @ 300 cycles Back – Min Class 4.0 @ 50 Cycles

Corduroy, velvet, velour One color only


ASTM D3107 - Wovens ASTM D2594 - Knits Use “Growth”

In stretch direction only, for : Knit: For samples with elastic content > 10% (60 sec.)

Requirements for Recovery: 85% Requirements for Growth: 5% For samples with elastic content




for pass/fail determination

< 10% (1hr.) Requirements for recovery: 70% Requirements for growth: 7% Woven: For samples with elastic content > 10% (30 sec.) Requirements for recovery: 85% Requirements for growth: 5%

For samples with elastic content < 10% (1hr.) Requirements for recovery: 70% Requirements for growth: 7%

BURSTING STRENGTH ASTM D3786 Minimum (psi) Fabric weight: <3.0 oz/sq yard: 30 >3.0 oz/sq yard: 45 Highly stretch fabric: 40 Lace/mesh: 20



After coating: Max. 1 gm of water penetration Before coating: > 1 gram of water penetration

Rainwear only. One color Test before and after coating, since the water-resistance must be a direct result of the coating, and not any prior finish (i.e. cire, etc.)

Page 3 of 3



PRODUCTION

Fabric Testing Protocol (ITC Spec. #002) (For all fabrics and fabrics used as trim) Sample requirement: 4 yards Page 1 of 5

Required test Test Method Requirement Notes PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS



FABRIC COUNT

ASTM D3775/D3887 +/- 5% One color only

FIBER CONTENT AATCC 20/20A Single Fiber : No tolerance Blends: +/- 3%

One color only

YARN SIZE


PERFORMANCE FORMALDEHYDE JIS L1041 <20 ppm One color only

pH AATCC 81 White (bleached), wool/wool

blends/leather/indigo: 4.5-7 Others: 6-8

All colors (after final wash treatment)

FLAMMABILITY

16 CFR 1610 Class 1 All colors


AATCC 135, 3 cycles (as per care instructions) Cold: 80F (27C) Warm: 105F (40C) For “dry clean only” fabrics: Hand wash, line dry or flat dry

Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: General: -3%x-3%(CVC), -3%x-3%(CVS) Stretch w/spandex: -4%x-4%(CVC), -3%x-3%(CVS) Corduroy, velvet, terry, flannel: -5%x-5%(CVC),-4%x-4%(CVS) Dobby, jacquard, basket, pique: -6%x-6%(CVC),-5%x-5%(CVS) Wool/silk -4%x-4%(CVC),-3%x-3%(CVS) Growth: +1% maximum Knits: General: -5%x-5%(CVC), -4%x-4%(CVS) Stretch w/spandex: -6%x-5%(CVC), -5%x-4%(CVS) Fleece, sherpa, french terry: -6%x-6%(CVC), -5%x-5%(CVS) Rib,waffle, pique: -6%x-6%(CVC),-5%x-5%(CVS) Jersey, interlock, pointelle: -6%x-5%(CVC), -5%x-5%(CVS) Thermal: -8%x-8%(CVC), -

Woven - one color only Knits - all colors Washable fabrics; Fabrics where “dry clean only” is recommended



7%x-7%(CVS) Wool (washable): -5%x-5% Silk (washable): -6%x-6% Growth: +3% maximum


AATCC 158, 1 cycle

Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -2.0%x-2.0% Growth: No growth allowed Knits: -3.0%x-3.0% Growth: No growth allowed

Woven - one color only Knits - all colors Dryclean fabrics



No obvious defects/observations affecting the end product performance/appearance, color change/staining satisfactory performance of the components and trims. List all observations.

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY AFTER STEAM PRESS

Coteco Length x Width (max %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2

One color only

APPEARANCE AFTER STEAM PRESS

Coteco No visual change in appearance Self-staining: 4.5 Color change: 4

One color only



Woven: 3% Knit: 5%

One color only

TENSILE STRENGTH ASTM D5034 Length x Width (min. lbs) General fabrics: Fabric weight: <2.4 oz/sq yard: 15 2.5-4.0 oz/sq yard: 25 4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 30 > 6.0 oz/sq yard: 40 Pocketing: 20 lbs


TEAR STRENGTH ASTM D1424 Length x Width (min.lbs) General fabrics: Fabric weight: <2.4 oz/sq yard: 1.5 2.5-4.0 oz/sq yard: 2.0 4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 3.0 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 4.0 Lining and pocketing fabrics: Fabric weight <4.0 oz/sq yard: 1.5 4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 2.0 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 2.5


Page 2 of 5






Length x Width (min. lbs) Fabric weight: <2.4 oz/sq yard: 10 2.5-4.0 oz/sq yard: 15 4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 20 > 6.0 oz/sq yard: 25


PILLING ASTM D3512 Random tumble Knits: 30 minutes Wovens: 1 hour Animal Fibers: BS EN ISO 12945 Part 1 (4 hours) (Specialty animal fibers: 2 hours)

Minimum Wovens & Knits: All others: 3.5 Brushed/peached: 3 Polyester/nylon: 3 Animal Fibers: 3.5

One color only If failure, test 2 additional colors.

PILE RETENTION ASTM D4685 (use CS-10 abradant) Option A Fabric >7.0 oz/sq yard: 500g head weight Option B Fabric <7.0 oz/sq yard 250g headweight

Option A: Face: Min class 3.0 @ 300 cycles Back – Min class 4.0 @ 100 cycles Option B: Face: Min class 3.0 @ 300 cycles Back - Min class 4.0 @ 50 cycles

Corduroy, Velvet, Velour One color only

ADHESION TEST/FIBER SHEDDING PROPENSITY

BV S-1036 Fiber removal maximum 50 x 10-3 grams

Faux fur only


ASTM D3107 - wovens ASTM D2594 -knits

In stretch direction only, for : Knit: For samples with elastic content > 10% (60 sec.) Requirements for recovery: 85% Requirements for growth: 5% For samples with elastic content < 10% (1hr.) Requirements for recovery: 70% Requirements for growth: 7% Woven: For samples with elastic content > 10% (30 sec.) Requirements for recovery: 85% Requirements for growth: 5%

For samples with elastic content < 10% (1hr.)

Requirements for recovery: 70% Requirements for growth: 7%


Page 3 of 5 Page 4 of 5



Required test Test Method Requirements Notes

BURSTING STRENGTH ASTM D3786 Minimum (psi) Fabric weight: <3.0 oz/sq yard: 30 >3.0 oz/sq yard: 45 Highly stretch fabric: 40 Lace/mesh: 20



After coating: Maximum: 1 gm of water penetration Before coating: >1 gram of water penetration

“Rainwear” only; One color. Test before and after coating, since the water-resistance must be a direct result of the coating, and not any prior finish (i.e. cire, etc.)

SPRAY TEST AATCC 22 Original: 90 (ISO 4) Washed (3x) or dry clean (1x): 70 (ISO 2) (as per care instructions)

Only if claimed to be “water resistant” One color only


AATCC 61/AATCC 132 Hand washables: 1A Machine washables: 2A Warm:49C Cold: 40C

Minimum: Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5

All colors Indigo: after the final wash treatment


AATCC TS 001

Minimum 4

All colors


AATCC TS 001 Minimum 4

All colors

COLORFASTNESS TO WATER


All colors (except white) Indigo: after the final wash treatment





AATCC 8, 116

Minimum (Wet/dry) Light: 3.5 Medium/dark: 2.5/3.5 Pigment/indigo 2/3 Sulfur/sueded

All colors (except white) Indigo: after the final wash treatment Lab discretion on light colors and certain neutrals If dry crocking does not meet Class 3.5, or wet crocking Class 2.0, wash 1X according to the care label and repeat test. If the crocking improves to a satisfactory rating, the fabric can be accepted, provided that the care instruction is modified to include “wash before wearing” (before all other instructions)




COLORFASTNESS TO SALIVA

Section 35 LMBG 82.10 Minimum AATCC Grey Scale: 4.5

All colors (except white) Indigo: after the final wash treatment

COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT

AATCC 16; Option 3 Silk:10 hours Others:20 hours Swimwear: 40 hours

Minimum Light colors: 3.5 All others: 4 Neon swim: 2.5 @ 40 hours


COLORFASTNESS TO OZONE

AATCC 109 (1 cycle) Minimum 4 “Indigo” and “whites” only After final wash treatment

COLORFASTNESS TO BURNT GAS FUMES

AATCC 23 (1 cycle) Minimum 4 “Indigo” and “whites” only After final wash treatment


AATCC 162 Minimum color change: All others: 4 Pigment dye/prints: 3.5 Self-staining: 4


COLORFASTNESS TO SEAWATER

AATCC 106 Minimum Color change: 4 (Pigment dyes/prints: 3.5) Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4


Note: Garment-dyed: all tests should be performed on the dyed garments after final garment wash. Severe “garment-wash” programs: all tests should be performed after the final garment wash. Page 5 of 5



GARMENT TESTING

Responsibility of Garment Suppliers

1. The garment supplier is responsible for all garments to be tested according to the Ann Taylor requirements and for the cost of such tests.

2. The factory must send a representative garment (at least 5 samples) from the beginning of their bulk production to an Ann Taylor designated commercial laboratory. • All the required garment information must be given to the laboratory (see Ann Taylor Test Request Form--Garment) • Additional garments must be sent to the laboratory if needed (consult with lab).

3. All tests for sweaters (including fabric) should be done after the final factory garment wash.

4. Garment dye, stone/enzyme washing: • The garment supplier is responsible to perform all fabric tests in addition to the garment

tests (after the garments are completely finished). This does not apply to regular garment wash.

• It is the garment manufacturer's responsibility to test all fabrics and trim for bleeding and other problems during this process before starting garment production.

• If necessary the garment supplier must modify his washing procedure to avoid staining or other problems.

•

Garment Testing

1. The purpose of garment testing is to evaluate all the different components of a garment together while being cleaned 3 times (1 time if dry cleaned) according to the care label. We are looking for appearance, bleeding, puckering, shrinkage, seam strength, or anything that would make the garment look or feel undesirable. Pay special attention to trims, accessories and garment prints.

2. The garment construction is also reviewed at this time to ensure compliance with all Infant/Toddler/Children safety requirements (such as drawstrings, sharp edges, sharp points, zipper guards, etc.).

3. The garment test must be performed by an Ann Taylor designated commercial laboratory (See section VI-D of Apparel Manual for complete listing).

4. Garments must be tested once each season in the production stage. Testing at development stage may also be requested on an exception basis. The testing must be done after the garment is completely finished, including “Garment wash”, “Enzyme wash”, “Stone wash”, etc. if applicable. • The cost of the testing is the responsibility of the garment supplier. • This procedure does not relieve the garment supplier of his responsibility to assure the

performance of the garments by total internal quality control throughout the production cycle.

5. Each garment style must be tested.



• It is not necessary to test every color combination, but the most critical color combination must be

selected for testing (i.e. combination of bright/deep colors with white or cream). Pay special attention to contrasting trim and/or accessories.

• Additional colorway testing may be required at Ann Taylor’s request. 6. If the same garment style is made by more than one supplier, it must be tested individually from each

supplier. 7. Hats and gloves are exempt from care labeling and do not have to be tested unless specifically requested.

However if a care label is requested by NY then the item must be tested just like any other garment. Garment Testing Protocol (ITC Spec. #003) 1. The laboratory will clean the garment three times (3x) according to the care label (1X for

drycleaning). All instructions should be followed. i.e. If the care label states “low heat iron, if necessary”, ironing at low heat setting should be performed, even if the garment does not appear to need ironing.

2. Garment construction review and testing to ensure compliance with all Infant/Toddler/Children

safety requirements.

Required test Test Method Required standard Notes DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING

AATCC 135, 3 cycles Garment Form (as per care instructions) Cold: 80F (27C) Warm: 105F (40C) For dry clean only fabrics: Hand wash, line dry or flat dry

Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: General: -3%x-3%(CVC), -3%x-3%(CVS) Stretch w/spandex: -4%x-4%(CVC), -3%x-3%(CVS) Corduroy, velvet, terry,flannel: -5%x-5%(CVC),-4%x-4%(CVS) Dobby, Jacquard, Basket, Pique: -6%x-6%(CVC),-5%x-5%(CVS) Wool/Silk -4%x-4%(CVC),-3%x-3%(CVS) Growth: +1% maximum Knits: General: -5%x-5%(CVC), -4%x-4%(CVS) Stretch w/spandex: -6%x-5%(CVC), -5%x-4%(CVS) Fleece, sherpa, french terry: -6%x-6%(CVC), -5%x-5%(CVS) Rib, waffle, pique: -6%x-6%(CVC),-5%x-5%(CVS) Jersey, interlock, pointelle: -6%x-5%(CVC),

Washable garments; Fabrics where “dry clean only” is recommended



-5%x-5%(CVS) Thermal: -8%x-8%(CVC), -7%x-7%(CVS) Wool (washable): -5%x-5% Silk (washable): -6%x-6% Growth: +3% maximum


AATCC 158, 1 cycle Garment Form

Length x width (max. %) Wovens: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2

Dry clean garments

TORQUE/SPIRALITY AATCC 179; Method 1, Option 2

Knits:5% Wovens:3%

APPEARANCE AFTER LAUNDERING/ DRYCLEANING

AATCC 150/158. as per care (3 cycles/1 cycle)

No obvious defects/observations affecting the end product performance/appearance, color change/staining satisfactory performance of the components and trims. List all observations.

FLAMMABILITY 16 CFR 1610/1611 Class 1 For trim, if applicable

COLORFASTNESS TO SALIVA

Section 35 LMBG 82.10 Minimum AATCC Grey Scale: 4.5

For trim, if applicable


ASTM D1683 Length x width (min. lbs) Fabric weight: <4.0 oz/sq yard: 15 4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 20 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 25

Wovens only

All seams


DOWNPROOFNESS IDFB 5530 (tumbling method)

Minimum 4 If down product



Mechanical Hazards ABUSE TEST * (SEE BELOW)

16 CFR 1500 Torque: Min 4 inch-pounds Tension: Min 16 lbs, 10 sec Flexure: Min 16 lbs

Includes all buttons, snaps, zipper pulls, and any applicable decorative trim

SHARP POINTS/SHARP EDGES

16 CFR 1500 Sharp points/edges shall not be accessible before and after use and abuse tests

SMALL PARTS 16 CFR 1500 16 CFR 1501

Small parts shall not be present after use and abuse tests

DRAWSTRING/CORDS LOOPS/HANGERS

See “Construction and Manufacturing Requirements”



ZIPPER GUARDS See “Construction and Manufacturing Requirements”



* All Small Parts (zippers, buttons, snaps, bows, etc.) must be tested for removal by the

laboratory. Use and Abuse Testing • Small Parts testing should be done on the sample in both its original and after-wash (3x) or -

dryclean (1x) states. • Small parts testing performed on garment in original state should be done on a separate

garment (i.e. one garment for testing small parts in original state, and another garment for testing Care Label wash test and after-wash small parts). Results must be reported accordingly.

• All small parts on each garment submitted must be evaluated. For example, if a garment is

submitted that contains 6 snaps, all 6 snaps must be tested.

• If “small parts” detach during the washing process itself, there is no need to then perform the test after 3X washing, as it would already be considered a major failure at this stage.

• Any failure at laboratory stage must be reported (by the regional office) to the NY Director

of Fabric and Testing and the NY Production department. Any failure requires 5 additional garments to be sent from the vendor for retesting. If the additional 5 garments are necessary, 4 garments must be tested for “small parts” in the original state, while only 1 garment must be washed 3X and tested for “small parts” after wash.



Construction and Manufacturing Requirements

Note: Any deviation from these requirements must be approved by the New York Production Head and by the NY Director of Fabric and Testing.

In addition to the construction and manufacturing requirements listed, reasonable judgment and care must be exercised by the garment manufacturers to avoid any latent hazard. Ann Taylor must be notified if, in the opinion of the manufacturer, the design of the garment cannot be executed without creating a potential hazard.

Zippers

• Only zippers (including all parts) from suppliers approved by Ann Taylor can be used --currently only YKK.

• Zipper protection is required on all garments. This requirement is specifically for any

"functional" zipper (serving as a closure), with the exception of pocket zippers.

Following are examples of acceptable forms of zipper protection: 1. Traditional zipper guard

• Minimum of 3/4 inch facing

2. Double placket/placket flange • Used for reversible garments

3. Neck Zipper Guard Tab • Used for piece at top neck

4. Molded Top Stop - Coil Zipper (coil zipper with an enclosed back) Note: Invisible zippers exempt from above requirements.



Appliqués, Decorations, etc.

Appliqués and other similar decorations must be stitched or bar-tacked with reinforcement for added security.

Snap Control

Snap fasteners (functional and non-functional): • Only snap fasteners from suppliers approved by Ann Taylor can be used --currently only

YKK, Scovill (Acotex), and Prym. • The guidelines for snap attachment that are issued by YKK/Scovill/Prym must be

followed. • Snap fasteners must not be applied over seams, fabric joints or uneven fabric thickness. • The best construction is two plies of fabric and one ply of interlining. If interlining is

used, it must be sewn or fused onto the garment before snap application. • A sample of each garment style must be sent to snap manufacturer for evaluation and

recommendation of product and machine setting (pinch setting, etc). • Snap fasteners with uncovered prongs (no socket) are not allowed. • Prongs must be long enough to properly attach and secure the snap to the seam. Snaps

with the leg of prong exposed are unacceptable. • Ball and socket of snap must be accurately aligned. • Grippers must be firmly attached, with no clearance between fabric and gripper. • The bottom of the post must be flat • The cap and post must be curled properly. • The two staples must be completely curled. • The cap or button must not turn around easily. • Reused snaps are unacceptable. • Snap attachment machines

• It is highly recommended for the factories to use YKK/Scovill/Prym machines,

as these are specially designed to maintain all settings properly.

• It is permissible however to use a machine other than the one recommended provided that:

1) The dies are made by YKK/Scovill/Prym to specifically fit the machine 2) YKK/Scovill/Prym technicians evaluate the setting of the snaps 3) The factory checks the adjustment of the machine twice daily 4) No poorly set snaps are found in random inspections by our QA 5) The machine must be pneumatic or electric press. No manually operated

hand/foot press or electric flywheel type presses are allowed.



The vendor must check the snap machine at least 2 times each day during

production to ensure the snaps are secure and consistent. The snap machine must be tested 2 times each day using the tension testing

instrument to officially measure attachment strength. All snaps on actual garments must be tested.

• Vendor must keep a record of daily inspections, which must be available to Ann Taylor

QA upon request. • Vendor must have on hand a digital caliber to measure the total pinch setting on a regular

basis. If beyond +/-0.003 inches (of recommendation), snap supplier technicians should be consulted.

• Data sheet must be kept by factory indicating evaluation of pinch setting anytime there is a break in the production process (i.e. before work, after lunch, before overtime starts, etc.).

• Vendor is responsible for 100% inspection of all snaps. Every garment must be unsnapped and snapped at least 3 times to insure proper attachment.

• Vendor must perform “Removal of small parts” test on actual garments on a random basis (See Factory Requirements—Small Parts)

Buttons (functional and non-functional)

Buttons smaller than 15 ligne should be of two-hole configuration. Buttons larger than 15 ligne should be of four-hole configuration. Buttons that crack, chip, or break cannot be used. Only lock stitch button attachment machines can be used. Buttons should be attached with a minimum of 15 needle passes. A polyester thread should be used.

Hasps and Sliders

Wire diameter must be a minimum of 12 gauge (0.1046 inches) All seams must be welded, no sharp points or edges. Exception: Hasps can be constructed with a cover plate over the wire joint, provided that the construction prevents exposure of the wire ends. This must be tested by repeated twisting and pulling with a minimum force of 16 lbs.



Factory Requirements (Small Parts) • Each manufacturer of Infant/Toddler/Children garments must have access to at least one

precise small parts cylinder. • Each manufacturer of Infant/Toddler/Children garments must have a tension testing

instrument (“pull tester”) at the factory for random testing. • Tension test is to be done on the actual garment on a random basis by the factory before shipping

and by the Ann Taylor QA person during the regular visits and inspections. (See Garment Testing-Small Parts).

• If the garment is after-treated (stone, enzyme wash, etc.) the garments must be tested on a random

basis after they are completely finished. • If the garments are not after-treated (regular garment wash or no wash) then occasionally some

garments should be washed (3X) according to the care label and tested after the washes. • If a commercial laboratory failure is observed (See Garment Testing), then the factory must:

⇒ Provide an explanation for the poorly set snap, button, etc. ⇒ Indicate units in quarantine because of problem. ⇒ Indicate measures taken to resolve the problem ⇒ Send an additional 5 garments to the laboratory for testing. If there are any failures in these next 5 garments, then Ann Taylor requires: An additional 5 garments sent to the laboratory for testing (that must pass) AND Written documentation that 100% inspection has been performed by the factory. Such documentation to be kept by Corporate QC as part of the final inspection report.

Note: Any failures are to be reported to the NY Director of Fabric and Testing and Production.



Loops and Hangers

Loops and hangers that could catch on something and tighten the neck opening, causing the child to suffocate, must not be used in the collar and neck area.

Drawstring Requirements

1. No drawstrings will be allowed on hoods or around the neck area of any garments. 2. Drawstrings in any other area, including waist and bottoms, must not be exposed for more than 3 inches from where the strings extend out of the garment when it is expanded to the fullest. In addition such draw cords must be securely fastened in the middle by bar tacking so that they cannot be removed entirely. 3. No toggles, stoppers or knots can be used at the ends of drawstrings. If cords are made of 100% Polyester or Nylon, the ends should be heat-sealed. (Sharp points must not be created by this method!). The ends of the drawstrings may be dipped in liquid plastic or tacked in to prevent fraying. Plastic tips (such as on shoelaces) may be used provided that they are continuously checked for tight adherence. If any loose tips are found the whole shipment must be rejected. Note: When plastic tipping is used at the ends of drawstrings, the tips must withstand a pull-off force of at least 21 lbs.

Neck Stretch Up to 12-18 months: 21” 18-24 months to 5T: 22”



Sewing Needle Control

Needle detectors must be used before packing the garments. “Needle Detector Control” form must be filled out by the factory and stored by Corporate QC for a minimum of 3 years.

A conveyer-type machine or device is preferable. The needle detectors must be properly calibrated and frequently checked. (see Appendix C)

In addition, proper controls over needles and broken needle parts must be maintained in the sewing operation to prevent such parts from remaining accidentally in the garment.

In-line needle control at factory

Note: Factory is responsible for implementing, monitoring, and maintaining the following needle-control program. Machine:

• No spare needles at any sewing machines • All stock and spare needles must be kept by an appointed production person. • When there is a needle breakage, production cannot be resumed until all remaining

needle parts are found. Before receiving a replacement needle, sewing machine operator must submit all pieces of needle.

• Appointed production person is the only one authorized to replace needles. Machine operators cannot replace needles on their own.

• If all parts of needle cannot be found, then the garment (s) being sewn must be completely inspected (i.e. hand-held needle detection device). If lost parts still cannot be found, then garment (s) must be destroyed.

• A “Needle Log” must be kept by the factory to record all broken needles. This log should list date, time, machine type, operation, product type, and customer’s name. All broken parts of the needle must be attached to the “Needle Log”. Supervisors must sign and indicate what course of action was taken if the log shows that some part of the needle was not found.

• All “Needle Logs” must be available for review by Ann Taylor QA during their regularly scheduled factory visits and by Ann Taylor offices and/or agents upon request.



Hand: • Needles must be “checked-out” by the operator at the beginning of each shift • An operator cannot keep additional needles at his/her location unless noted on the

“check-out” sheet. • All needles must be “checked-in” at the end of each work shift. • If an operator has not turned in every needle he/she checked-out, then the operator’s

entire production must be inspected. If the missing needle is still not found, then the operator’s entire day’s production must be destroyed.

Metal Pins, Wires, and Staples Control

No metal pins, wires, or staples may be used in any part of the production process for bundling, tacking, or securing components.

Sewing Thread

Monofilament thread must not be used on any garment. Any other kind of continuous filament thread is also undesirable.

Flame Retardant Finishes

Flame retardant finishes can only be applied if specifically permitted in writing by Ann Taylor on a case by case basis. Flammability testing must be adjusted accordingly if flame retardants are used.

Stone Washing If actual stones are used:

All pockets on garments that will be stonewashed must be stitched closed so that no stones can get into the pockets and accidentally remain there. In order to facilitate the removal of the seam after stone washing:

a.) Use the smallest number of stitches/inch that is technically possible (no more than 5-6) b.) Use the loosest thread tension possible c.) Use a cotton thread that is strong enough to withstand stone washing but can be broken by the consumer. The thread should be a different shade from the fabric to be easily seen but not a different color that would detract from the look of the garment.

A hang tag should be used on all such garments to advise the consumer that the pockets are stitched shut for protection during stone washing and for the consumer to remove the threads and open the pockets. Note: If the pocket stitching is removed prior to shipping, 100% inspection must be performed by the factory to make sure no stones remain in the pockets.

Plastic Bag Warning

Plastic bags with width and length both larger than 5 inches and are sold with the product shall have the following statement or its equivalent present on the bag: "WARNING: Plastic bags can be dangerous. To avoid danger of suffocation, keep this bag away from babies and children." The letter height shall be a minimum of 1/8 inch.



APPENDIX A Children’s Sleepwear Children’s Sleepwear classification Guidelines

Ann Taylor does not intend to produce any garments for sleepwear; however, it is the responsibility of New York design and production to assure that none of the garments could be “classified as sleepwear” (even though they are not intended to be). Consult NY Director of Fabric and Testing (for special requirements/testing) if any garment could be “classified as sleepwear”.

Sleepwear:

Any product or wearing apparel intended to be worn primarily for sleeping or activities related to sleeping. Such “activities” include those that a child is involved in while getting ready for bed or while wearing sleepwear garments before going to bed or after getting up in the morning.

The classification of sleepwear is very subjective. The Consumer Product Safety

Commission (CPSC) determinations may be made on the following criteria: • The subjective evaluation of a garments’ suitability as sleepwear • The manner in which the garment is marketed, advertised, and displayed • The likelihood that a garment will be purchased and used as sleepwear Note: Hang tags or labels that state that a garment is not intended to be used for sleepwear

are not sufficient and cannot be used to avoid special testing requirements.

Can this garment be classified as sleepwear? 1. Compare to sleepwear garment silhouettes (see “Sleepwear Silhouettes”)

• One-piece footed garments • One piece non-footed garments • Two piece footed garments • Two piece non-footed garments • Gown with drawstring bottom • Gown with open bottom • Robes (unless clearly intended for pool/beach use)

Note: if a garment does not match a silhouette, it is not automatically considered “playwear” (as opposed to “sleepwear”).

2. Is the garment loose fitting, non-restrictive, and made from comfortable fabric (common characteristics of sleepwear garments)?



3. Is it constructed of typical sleepwear fabric (see “Traditional Sleepwear Fabric”)?

4. Do the colors or designs indicate sleepwear?

5. Does the marketing imply sleepwear?

6. Is there excessive ornamentation or trim?

• the greater the amount of ornamentation or trim, the greater the likelihood that a garment will not be considered sleepwear.

Even if a particular garment matches a silhouette, is suitable for use as sleepwear, and is made from traditional sleepwear fabric, other factors will influence the CPSC decision—such as:

Design modifications: i.e. snap-shoulder closures are viewed as playwear, not sleepwear features.

All criteria are subjectively evaluated by the CPSC. *Consult NY Director of Fabric and Testing (for special requirements/testing) if any garment could be classified as sleepwear Note: Customs tariff/quota classification of these garments may not correspond with those of the CPSC.



Sleepwear Exceptions

(Note: All of below “Sleepwear Exceptions” must still meet the regular flammability standards, 16 CFR 1610, Class 1)

1. Infants’ 0-9 months (effective January 1, 1997) Exempt because studies have shown that infants in this age range lack mobility, which reduces the risk of injury from clothing burns significantly. • May be sold as sleepwear without having to meet the additional sleepwear flammability

standards and testing. • Covers one-piece and two-piece garments • Covers footed and non-footed garments • No restriction on fabric construction or content • Must not exceed maximum length measurements:

one-piece garments (25.75 in/64.8 cm --maximum) two-piece garments (15.75 in/40 cm --maximum)

• Must be size-labeled, with label visible to consumer at point of purchase(on garment or package)

• Can be marketed as sleepwear 2. Skin Tight Garments for over 9 months Exempt because studies indicate that tight-fitting garments are a much less flammability risk than loose fitting garments such as nightgowns, robes, and pajamas. • May be sold as sleepwear without having to meet the additional sleepwear flammability

standards and testing. • Covers one-piece and two-piece garments • Covers footed and non-footed garments • No restriction on fabric construction or content • Must be tapered at ankles and wrists • Must not exceed maximum dimensions in seven critical areas (see “Maximum

Dimensions for Tight Fitting Garments”). • Must be size-labeled • Ornamentation is limited-cannot extend more than ¼ in. from point of attachment to outer

surface • Can be marketed as sleepwear



3. Long Underwear---must match silhouette in Diagram D (2-piece non-footed garments in

sizes 0-14) and adhere to the following: • Garment must be designed to be skin tight • Garment must be made of fabric traditionally used in long underwear • Garment must be clearly promoted as underwear • Garment must not be decorated with a large amount of trim such as ribbons, lace, etc. • Specific sizing standards (equal to or less) used by the CPSC to determine skin

tightness for long underwear—(see “Long Underwear, Critical Dimensions”). • Wrist and ankle cuffs must be tight enough to secure the underwear in place as a child

pulls an outer garment over it. • Sleep-related motifs are not permissible, as this type of decoration may lead the

consumer to believe the items can be used as sleepwear. • Long-underwear features, like rib-knit cuffs and exposed elastic waistbands, are

highly recommended.



Sleepwear Silhouettes

A. One-Piece Footed Garments:

B. One-Piece Non-Footed Garments:



C. Two-Piece Footed Garments: D. Two-Piece Non-Footed Garments:

E. Gown with Drawstring Bottom:



F. Gown with Open Bottom:

Robe:



Traditional Sleepwear Fabric

(CPSC Guidelines)

Type of Fabric Weight Range (oz/yd2)

Jersey Knit 2.4-5.2 Blanket Weight Fleece 5.0-7.0 Brushed Jersey 5.7-6.7 Stretch Terry 5.5-7.7 Interlock and Rib Knit 4.0-6.0 Warp Knit Flannel 2.6-4.2

Note: Use of fabrics outside these weight ranges and/or constructions does not guarantee that a garment will be considered “playwear”. Fabrics that are not traditionally used in sleepwear include: • Corduroy • Velours • French terry • Waffle knits • Sweatshirt fleece • Woven twills



Long Underwear: Critical Dimensions for Two-Piece Non-Footed Garments Pursuant to the CPSC guidelines, "decorative" long underwear and similar garments are considered to be "skin tight" if their critical dimensions are equal to or less than the standard garment measurements published by the National Institute for Standards and Technology covering garments in all sizes. If a garment is sized in "ranges", such as Small (5), Medium (M) and Large (L), the standard measurement used for comparison will be that of the smallest size within the range. For example, if a “Small” covers sizes 4 to 6, the size 4 standards will be used by the CPSC to determine whether the garment is skin tight. It is important to note that the CPSC will measure garments prior to shrinkage (i.e., prior to washing in accordance with care instructions) in determining critical dimensions. The following charts set forth the critical dimensions evaluated by the CPSC: A. Chest Measurements B. Hip Measurements C. Thigh Measurements A) CHEST—STANDARD MEASUREMENTS IN INCHES

INFANT SIZES -- 3 mos. 6 mos. 12 mos. (Size 1) 18 mos.

17 18 19 20

CHILDREN'S SIZES -- 2 (24 mos.) 3 4 5 6 6X

21 22 23 24 25 25.5

How to measure: The chest is measured horizontally across the front of the garment from underarm to underarm. This

measurement is then doubled to arrive at the chest circumference. In each size listed, the chest

circumference must be equal to, or less than, the above standard measurements in order for the

garment to be considered skin tight.



B) HIPS—STANDARD MEASUREMENTS IN INCHES INFANT SIZES -- 3 mos. 6 mos. 12 mos. (Size 1) 18 mos. Waist to Hip 3 7/8 3 7/8 3 7/8 3 7/8 Hip 21 ½ 21 ½ 21 ½ 21 ½

CHILDREN'S SIZES -- 2 (24 mos.) 3 4 5 6 6X Waist to Hip 3 7/8 4 3/8 4 ¾ 5 1/8 5 ½ 5 ¾

Hip 21 ½ 22 ½ 23 ½ 24 ½ 25 ½ 26 ½

Note: Measurements for sizes 0-24 mos (size 0 to 2) are based upon the Size 2 standards for purposes of long underwear critical dimensions for hips.

How to measure: The hip is first located by using the size standards labeled “Waist to Hip.” For

example, the hip on a size 4 garment will be located exactly 4 ¾ inches from the waistband. Once

the hip is located, it is measured across the front of the garment, and this measurement is doubled to

arrive at the hip circumference. In each size listed, the hip circumference must be equal to, or less

than, the above standard measurements in order for the garment to be considered skin tight. C) THIGHS—STANDARD MEASUREMENTS IN INCHES INFANT SIZES -- 3 mos. 6 mos. 12 mos. (Size 1) 18 mos. 12 12 12 12

CHILDREN'S SIZES -- 2 (24 mos.) 3 4 5 6 6X

12 12 ½ 13 13 ½ 14 14 ½

Note: Measurements for sizes 0-24 mos (size 0 to 2) are based upon the Size 2 standards for purposes of long underwear critical dimensions for Thighs.

How to measure: The thigh is measured horizontally across the upper leg area to the crotch. The

measurement is doubled to arrive at the thigh circumference. In each size listed, the thigh

circumference must be equal to, or less than, the above standard measurements in order for the

garment to be considered skin tight.



Maximum Dimensions for Tight-Fitting Garments (In Centimeters (CM) and Inches (IN))

CHEST WAIST SEAT UPPER

ARM THIGH WRIST ANKLE

CM IN CM IN CM IN CM IN CM IN CM IN CM IN

9-12 mos. 48.3 19 48.3 19 48.3 19 14.3 5.625 26.7 10.5 10.5 4.125 13 5.12512-18 mos 49.5 19.5 49.5 19.5 50.8 20 14.9 5.875 28.3 11.125 10.5 4.125 13.1 5.12518-24 mos 52.1 20.5 50.8 20 53.3 21 15.6 6.125 29.5 11.625 11 4.25 13.6 5.375

Size 2 52.1 20.5 50.8 20 53.3 21 15.6 6.125 29.8 11.75 11.4 4.5 14 5.5Size 3 53.3 21 52.1 20.5 56 22 16.2 6.375 31.4 12.375 11.7 4.625 14.9 5.875Size 4 56 22 53.3 21 58.4 23 16.8 6.625 33 13 12.1 4.75 15.9 6.25Size 5 58.4 23 54.6 21.5 61 24 17.5 6.875 34.6 13.625 12.4 4.875 16.8 6.625Size 6 61 24 55.9 22 63.5 25 18.1 7.125 36.2 14.25 12.7 5 17.8 7

Size 6X 62.9 24.75 57.2 22.5 65.4 25.75 18.7 7.375 37.8 14.875 13 5.125 18.7 7.375

Section 10 - Infant and Toddler Requirements and Testing 53 December 2007

APPENDIX B Needle Detectors 100% NEEDLE DETECTION IS A REQUIREMENT FOR GARMENTS SHIPPED IN SIZES INFANTS AND TODDLERS. Broken needles are a common problem at factory level, and it is crucial that no sharp points or sharp edges be found in these garments. 1. A conveyer type needle detector is highly recommended

• Belt speed must be set at manufacturer’s setting, and must not be altered. • Manual use of machine is not acceptable

2. The sensitivity of the machine must be set to a 1.2mm iron sphere.

The iron sphere is an industry accepted practice for calibration, since: • most needles are made of an iron alloy • a sphere produces a constant signal and is not affected by orientation. 1.2 mm is used, since: • the majority of the breaks occur at the eye of the needle, leaving the tips embedded in the

garment. • It has been determined that the smallest size of a needle tip would be 1.2 mm in diameter.

3. Calibration

• Calibration is performed by using a 1.2 mm iron sphere. • Manufacturer’s instructions must be followed for proper calibration. • Frequent calibrations---at least twice and day, and always before switching from one garment style

to another. A daily record must be kept by the factory and available to Ann Taylor Corporate QC upon request.

Note: The weakest point of sensitivity is in the middle of the aperture (#5 in below diagram); however the iron sphere must be placed through the machine in all 9 areas for calibration purposes.

Top

Middle Bottom

POINTS OF CALIBRATION Cross Section of Needle Detector Tunnel

7 8 9 4 5 6 1 2 3

Section 10 - Infant and Toddler Requirements and Testing 54 December 2007

The machine operator must be trained by the needle detector manufacturer to ensure its proper use. Such documentation must be on file. 4. If hand-held or table top needle detectors are used, operators must follow the correct operating

procedure and manufacturer’s guidelines. Sensitivity of the machine must still be set to a 1.2 mm iron sphere.

5. For optimal performance, the needle detector machine should be placed:

• in a metal free zone • in a stable working environment (i.e. vibration-free, temperature 0-40 C, no

humidity/condensation)

6. The following materials/processes may adversely effect the needle detecting process • Stonewashing • Pigments prints that contain iron • Packing material that contains iron • Closed loop accessory (for example, a hasp) • Motor operated machine

ann taylor manual 6-13-08

Documents

neoprene rain

claiming moisture

soluble migrated

510 pleatsbelt

final wash

final wash

1a machine

raw materials